Let's figure out how to regulate the temperature of the heating battery. How to adjust heating radiators in a private house - ways to adjust the supply or return tap

When designing a heating system, measures must be taken to control temperature and pressure. To do this, it is necessary to install special fittings and devices. How to properly adjust the heating system: radiators, pressure and other elements? First you need to understand the principles of organization of these sections of the system.

Heating control methods

When the coolant is heated, it expands and, as a result, increases in volume. Therefore, before adjusting the heating radiators in the apartment, you need to ensure general control system operation.

Several types of devices are designed for this. They are conventionally divided into regulating and controlling. The first ones are designed to change the current characteristics of the system (pressure and temperature) towards decreasing or increasing. They are installed on a specific section of the pipeline or for the entire system as a whole. Control devices include pressure gauges and thermometers, mounted together with control devices or separately.

How to adjust the pressure in the heating system when operating solid fuel and gas boiler? To do this you need to be guided the following principles design of control systems:

• Installation of pressure gauges (thermometers) before and after the boiler, in distribution manifolds in the highest and lowest parts of the system;
• If there is a circulation pump, the pressure gauge is installed before it;
• Mandatory installation expansion tank. In closed systems it can be of the membrane type, in open systems it can be leaky;
• The safety valve and air vent will prevent critical excess pressure in the pipes.

The average water temperature in the pipes should not exceed 90 degrees. The pressure should be in the range from 1.5 to 3 atm. It is possible to make a system with parameters exceeding the specified ones, but in this case you will need to select special components.

If you cannot adjust the heating radiators in your apartment using a thermostat, there is most likely an air lock. To eliminate it, a Mayevsky crane is needed.

Regulating the heating of a private house

For owners of private houses, a pressing question is: how to adjust a two-pipe heating system. Unlike district heating, to parameters autonomous heating only internal factors influence.

The main ones are the design of the boiler, the types of fuel used and its thermal power. Also, the ability to adjust coolant parameters directly depends on the following system indicators:

• Pipe diameter and material. The larger the cross-section of the line, the faster the water will expand as a result of rising temperature;
• Radiator characteristics. Before adjusting the heating radiator, you need to make it correct connection to the pipeline. In the future, using special devices, you can reduce or increase the speed and volume of coolant passing through the heating device;
• Possibility of installing mixing units. They can be installed for a two-pipe heating system and with their help the water temperature is reduced by mixing hot and cold flows.

In order to find out how to adjust the heating system in a private home, it is recommended to consider all possible options.

The installation of pressure control mechanisms in the heating system must be provided for at the design stage. Otherwise, even a small error during installation can lead to loss of efficiency the entire system.

Stabilization of pressure in the heating system

Expansion of water as a result of heating is a natural process. In this indicator, the pressure may exceed a critical value, which is unacceptable from the point of view of heating operation. In order to stabilize and reduce pressure on the internal surfaces of pipes and radiators, it is necessary to install several heating elements. Adjusting the heating system in a private home will be much easier and more efficient with their help.

Adjusting the expansion tank

It is a steel container divided into two chambers. One of them is filled with water from the system, and air is pumped into the second. The air pressure value is equal to normal in heating pipes. If this parameter is exceeded, the elastic membrane increases the volume of the water chamber, thereby compensating thermal expansion water.

Before adjusting the pressure drop in the heating system, you need to check the condition and settings of the expansion tank. You can adjust the pressure in the heating system by purchasing a tank model with the ability to change it in the air chamber. As an additional measure, install a pressure gauge to visually monitor this value.

However, if there is a significant surge in pressure, this measure will not be enough. This way you can adjust the pressure drop in the heating system if it does not exceed a critical value. Therefore, it is recommended to install additional devices.

How to adjust a security group

This group of devices includes the following elements:

• Pressure gauge. Designed for visual monitoring of the heating system operation;
• Air vent. If the water temperature exceeds 100 degrees, excess steam acts on the valve seat of the device, releasing air from the pipes;
• Safety valve. It works in the same way as a water drain, but is needed to drain excess coolant from the pipes.

How to adjust a heating radiator using this unit? Alas, it is intended to prevent emergency situations throughout the entire system. Batteries require another device to be installed.

Mayevsky crane

Structurally it is similar to safety valve. Features are small sizes and the ability to mount on a radiator pipe with a small diameter.

In order to correctly adjust heating radiators, you need to know in what cases the Mayevsky tap is used:

• Elimination air jams in radiators. By opening the valve, air is released until the coolant flows;
• Setting the critical pressure value parameters. If an emergency expansion of water occurs, the valve opens and the pressure in the radiator stabilizes.

The last function is optional and is most often not used. This task is best handled by the security team. Proper adjustment of heating in the house should include all of the above elements.

At self-regulation of a two-pipe heating system with the boiler running, you need to constantly monitor the readings of thermometers and pressure gauges.

Heating temperature control

An important parameter of any heating system is the optimal temperature regime for its operation. A ratio of hot and cooled coolant of 75/50 or 80/60 is considered suitable. However, this value is not always acceptable for certain parts of the network. How to properly adjust the heating in the house in this case? Installation required special equipment. Some of them are designed for adjusting heating radiators.

Mixing units

Their main element is a two or three-way valve. One of the pipes is connected to a heating pipe with hot water, the second to the reverse. The third is mounted on a section of the main line where it is necessary to ensure a lower level of coolant temperature.

As additional options, the mixing units are equipped with a temperature sensor and a thermostatic control unit. A signal is received from the sensor about the heating level of the coolant and it opens or closes the mixing valve, thereby regulating the two-pipe heating system. Most often, such mechanisms are installed in water-heated floor collectors.

If you need to adjust the heating of a water heated floor in apartment building– it is necessary to take into account the temperature conditions of the pipes. Most often it does not exceed 45 degrees.

Servo drives

How to adjust the heating in an apartment building if it is not possible to independently change the temperature of the water in the pipes? This requires the installation of special shut-off valves. You can limit yourself to installing simple taps - with their help, the flow of coolant into the radiators is regulated. However, in this case, the adjustment will have to be done independently each time. The best option There will be installation of servos.

The design of this device includes a thermostat and a servo drive. To work, you must perform the following steps.

1. Install desired value temperature on the thermostat.
2. The servo drive will automatically open or close the flow of coolant into the radiator.

In addition to similar models, you can purchase an economy version that includes only a thermostat. In this case, the level of adjustment will not be as accurate. But how to adjust the heating system in an apartment building if old radiators are installed? There are models of thermostats that are designed for installation in cast iron radiators. This measure will make the temperature settings for the apartment more accurate.

Thermostats cannot be used to regulate the pressure drop in the heating system. They will only limit the flow of coolant into the radiator without affecting the temperature regime of the entire system.

All of the above devices and instruments are necessary for normal operation heating. But in addition to them, you need to know the basic rules for installing individual elements, since they directly affect the operation of the entire system. Regulation of heating radiators in an apartment begins at the installation stage.

First of all, you need to choose a connection method. The efficiency of the device and the possibility of installing a thermostat depend on it.

You should also take into account the pipe layout. In a single-pipe system, a bypass (jumper) must be installed, which is necessary to redirect the flow of coolant in the event of repair or replacement of the radiator. In a two-pipe connection of each heating element happens in parallel. Therefore, it is easiest to properly adjust the heating batteries.

In this way you can regulate the heating in an apartment building. But for autonomous system It is important to know the correct settings of the boiler.

Installing thermostats on radiators

Most of the heating systems of apartment buildings and private buildings are built precisely according to this scheme. What are its advantages and are there any disadvantages?

Can a two-pipe heating system be installed with your own hands?

The difference between a two-pipe heating system and a single-pipe one

Let's first define what kind of beast this is - a two-pipe heating system. It’s easy to guess from the name that it uses exactly two pipes; but where do they lead and why are they needed?

The fact is that to heat a heating device with any coolant, it needs circulation. This can be achieved in one of two ways:

1. Single-pipe circuit (so-called barracks type)
2. Two-pipe heating.

In the first case, the entire heating system is one large ring. It can be opened by heating devices, or, which is much more reasonable, they can be placed parallel to the pipe; the main thing is that there is no separate supply and return pipeline passing through the heated room.

Or rather, in this case these functions are combined by the same pipe.

What do we gain and what do we lose in this case?

• Dignity: minimum costs materials.
• Disadvantage: large variation in coolant temperature between the radiators at the beginning and end of the ring.

The second scheme - two-pipe heating - is a little more complicated and more expensive. There are two pipelines running through the entire room (in the case of a multi-storey building - at least on one floor or in the basement) - supply and return.

First, the hot coolant (most often ordinary process water) goes to the heating devices to give them heat, and returns in the second direction.

Each heating device (or a riser with several heating devices) is placed in the gap between the supply and return.

There are two main consequences of this connection scheme:

• Disadvantage: the pipe consumption is much higher for two pipelines instead of one.
• Advantage: the ability to supply coolant to ALL heating devices at approximately the same temperature.

Advice: for each heating device in case large room It is necessary to install an adjustable throttle.

This will allow you to equalize the temperature more accurately, making sure that the flow of water from the supply to the return on nearby radiators will not “sag” those more distant from the boiler or elevator.

Features of two-pipe heating systems in apartment buildings

In the case of apartment buildings, of course, no one installs throttles on individual risers and constantly regulates the water flow; equalizing the temperature of the coolant at different distances from the elevator is achieved in another way: the supply and return pipelines running through the basement (the so-called heating pipe) have a much larger diameter than the heating risers.

Alas, in new houses built after the collapse Soviet Union and the disappearance of strict government control over construction organizations It began to be practiced to use pipes of approximately the same diameter on risers and benches, as well as thin-walled pipes installed for welding valves and other nice signs of the new social system.

The consequence of such savings is cold radiators in apartments located at the maximum distance from the elevator unit; By a funny coincidence, these apartments are usually corner and have a common wall with the street. Quite a cold wall.

However, we have deviated from the topic. The two-pipe heating system in an apartment building has one more feature: for its normal functioning The water should circulate through the risers, rising and falling up and down. If something interferes with it, the riser with all the batteries remains cold.

What to do if the heating system at home is running, but the radiators are at room temperature?

1. Make sure the riser valves are open.
2. If all the flags and switches are in the “open” position, close one of the paired risers (we are, of course, talking about a house with, where both beds are in the basement) and open the vent located next to it.
   If the water is flowing with normal pressure - there are no obstacles to the normal circulation of the riser, except for the air at its upper points. Tip: drain more water until, after a long snorting of the air-water mixture, a powerful and stable stream of hot water flows. Perhaps in this case you will not need to go up to the top floor and bleed the air there - circulation will be restored after startup.
3. If the water does not flow, try to bypass the riser in the opposite direction: perhaps a piece of scale or slag is stuck somewhere. The countercurrent can carry it out.
4. If all attempts have no effect and the riser does not drain, most likely you will have to search for a room in which repairs were made and heating appliances were changed. Here you can expect any trick: a removed and plugged radiator without a jumper, a completely cut off riser with plugs at both ends, a throttle closed for general reasons - again in the absence of a jumper... Human stupidity truly gives an idea of ​​​​infinity.

Features of the top filling system

Another way to install a two-pipe heating system is the so-called top filling. What is the difference? The only problem is that the supply pipeline migrates to the attic or upper floor. Vertical pipe connects the filling bottling with the elevator.

Circulation from top to bottom; the path of water from supply to return with the same building height is half as long; all the air ends up not in the jumpers of the risers in apartments, but in a special expansion tank at the top of the supply pipeline.

Starting up such a heating system is immeasurably simpler: after all, for full operation of all heating risers, you do not need to get into each room on the top floor and bleed the air there.

It is more problematic to turn off the risers when repairs are necessary: ​​after all, you need to both go down to the basement and go up to the attic. Shut-off valves are located both here and there.

However, the above two-pipe heating systems are still more typical for apartment buildings. What about private owners?

It’s worth starting with the fact that in private houses the 2-pipe heating system used can be radial and sequential according to the type of connection of heating devices.

1. Radial: from the collector to each heating device there is its own supply and its own return.
2. Sequential: radiators are powered by all heating devices from a common pair of pipelines.

The advantages of the first connection scheme boil down mainly to the fact that with such a connection there is no need to balance a two-pipe heating system - there is no need to adjust the flow of the throttles of the radiators located closer to the boiler. The temperature will be the same everywhere (of course, with at least approximately the same length of the rays).

Its main drawback is the most high consumption pipes among all possible schemes. In addition, it will simply be impossible to extend the lines to most of the radiators along the walls while maintaining any decent appearance: They will have to be hidden under the screed during construction.

You can, of course, drag it through the basement, but remember: in private houses there are often no basements of sufficient height with free access there. In addition, the beam scheme is in any way convenient to use only when building a one-story house.

What do we have in the second case?

Of course, we have gotten away from the main disadvantage of single-pipe heating. Coolant temperature in all heating devices theoretically it could be the same. The key word is theoretically.

Setting up the heating system

In order for everything to work exactly the way we want, we will need to configure a two-pipe heating system.

The setup procedure itself is extremely simple: you need to turn the throttles on the radiators, starting with those closest to the boiler, reducing the flow of water through them. The goal is to make sure that a decrease in water flow through nearby heating devices increases water consumption at distant ones.

The algorithm is simple: slightly press the valve and measure the temperature on the distant heating device. With a thermometer or by touch - in this case it doesn’t matter: the human hand perfectly feels a difference of five degrees, and we don’t need greater accuracy.

Alas, it is impossible to give a more accurate recipe other than “tighten and measure”: calculating the exact permeability for each throttle at each coolant temperature, and then adjusting it to achieve the required numbers is an unrealistic task.

Two points to consider when adjusting a two-pipe heating system:

1. It takes a long time simply because after each change in the dynamics of the coolant, the temperature distribution takes a long time to stabilize.
2. The heating adjustment of a two-pipe system must be carried out BEFORE the onset of cold weather. This will prevent you from defrosting your home heating system if you miss the settings.

Tip: with a small volume of coolant, you can use non-freezing coolants - the same antifreeze or oil. It’s more expensive, but you can leave your house without heating in winter without worrying about the pipes and radiators.

Horizontal wiring system

With horizontal supply and return pipelines Lately from its patrimony – private and low-rise houses – it began to penetrate into multi-storey new buildings.

Apparently, this is largely due to the fact that studio apartments have begun to gain popularity: with a large area of ​​​​the room without internal partitions, it is simply unprofitable to pull risers through the ceilings, as a 2-pipe vertical heating system implies; It is much easier to do the wiring horizontally.

Typical two-pipe horizontal heating system modern house it looks like this: the risers from the basement run along the entrance. On each floor, taps are made into the risers, which supply coolant to the apartment through valves and discharge waste water into the return pipeline.

Everything else is exactly like in a private house: two pipes, batteries and chokes on each of them. By the way, a horizontal heating system - two-pipe or one-pipe - is easier to repair: to dismantle and replace a section of pipe, there is no need to violate the integrity of the ceiling; This is undoubtedly worth recording as an advantage of such a scheme.

The horizontal two-pipe heating system has one feature that follows from its design and leaves its mark on the start of heating. In order for the heating device to transfer maximum heat from the coolant to the air in the room, it must be completely filled.

This means that each such heating device, typically located above the supply and return pipelines, must be equipped with a Mayevsky valve or any other vent in the upper part.

Advice: Mayevsky taps are very compact and aesthetically pleasing, but they are not the most convenient device for removing air from a radiator.

Where aesthetics are not important (for example, when heating devices are closed decorative grilles), it would be much more convenient to install a water tap with the spout up or a ball valve.

We will not add this feature to the list of disadvantages: going around the radiators in one apartment once a year is not a big deal.

As you might easily guess, a two-pipe horizontal heating system is not only a solution strictly for one-story buildings or for apartment buildings with studio apartments. Eg, two-storey house with separate rooms can also be heated in the same way; you just have to make the wiring identical on both floors and connect pipelines from the boiler to both systems.

Of course, balancing such a heating system will have to take a little more time; but this is a one-time event, and it is not difficult to experience it once in a few years.

Finally, a few definitions and simply useful tips.

Depending on the direction of water flow in the pipelines, a 2-pipe heating system can be dead-end or direct-flow.

• A two-pipe dead-end heating system is a system in which the coolant moves through the supply and return pipelines in opposite directions.
• In a direct-flow two-pipe heating system, the direction of the current in both pipelines coincides.

In private houses, two-pipe heating systems with both forced and natural circulation can be used.

• Forced coolant circulation is ensured by circulation pump; This quiet and low-power device is supplied, in particular, in the same housing with many electric boilers.
• Natural circulation is used in small-volume heating systems; the principle of its operation is based on the fact that hot water has a lower density and rushes upward.

Two-pipe closed system heating, that is, a system with constant pressure and without both water supply and external coolant flow, is the most popular solution for private houses with electric boilers.

In order to transfer heat to distant rooms from a solid fuel boiler or stove, an open one-pipe or two-pipe system is also quite suitable.

The design of a two-pipe heating system can include radiators of any type, registers and convectors as heating devices; warm floor implies a different connection method.

In order to install the heating of a two-pipe system, it is certainly better to involve specialists in the work. However, the abundance of materials on this topic on the Internet and the ease of assembling modern plumbing and heating systems with the help of fittings and machines make it possible for an amateur to do this work - if only he wanted to.

If you are installing a two-pipe heating system for a two-story house, when balancing the system it is worth taking into account the peculiarity of communicating floors in terms of heat distribution: all other things being equal, it will always be warmer on the second floor.

From efficient work heating system depends on how comfortable the temperature in the house will be during the cold season. Sometimes situations arise when hot water is supplied to the system, but the batteries remain cold. It is important to find the cause and eliminate it. To solve the problem, you need to know the structure of the heating system and the causes of cold return when hot served.

Heating system design - what is return?

The heating system consists of an expansion tank, batteries, and a heating boiler. All components are connected to each other in a circuit. A coolant liquid is poured into the system. The liquid used is water or antifreeze. If the installation is done correctly, the liquid is heated in the boiler and begins to rise through the pipes. When heated, the liquid increases in volume, the excess enters the expansion tank.

Since the heating system is completely filled with liquid, the hot coolant displaces the cold coolant, which returns to the boiler, where it is heated. Gradually, the temperature of the coolant increases to the required temperature, heating the radiators. Liquid circulation can be natural, called gravitational, or forced, using a pump.

The return is a coolant that, having passed through all the heating devices included in the circuit, gives up its heat and, cooled, enters the boiler again for the next heating.

Batteries can be connected in three ways:

1. 1. Bottom connection.
2. 2. Diagonal connection.
3. 3. Lateral connection.

In the first method, the coolant is supplied and the return is discharged at the bottom of the battery. This method is advisable to use when the pipeline is located under the floor or baseboards. With a diagonal connection, the coolant is supplied from above, the return is discharged from the opposite side from below. This connection is best used for batteries with a large number of sections. The most popular method is side connection. The hot liquid is connected from above, the return is discharged from the bottom of the radiator on the same side where the coolant is supplied.

Heating systems differ in the way pipes are laid. They can be laid in one-pipe or two-pipe ways. The most popular is the single-pipe wiring diagram. Most often it is installed in multi-storey buildings.It has the following advantages:

• a small number of pipes;
• low cost;
• ease of installation;
• serial connection of radiators does not require the organization of a separate riser for liquid drainage.

Disadvantages include the inability to adjust the intensity and heating for a separate radiator, and a decrease in the temperature of the coolant as it moves away from the heating boiler. To increase the efficiency of single-pipe distribution, circular pumps are installed.

For organization individual heating A two-pipe pipe layout is used. Hot feed is carried out through one pipe. In the second, cooled water or antifreeze flows back into the boiler. This scheme makes it possible parallel connection radiators, ensuring uniform heating of all devices. In addition, the two-pipe circuit allows you to regulate the heating temperature of each heating device separately. The disadvantage is the complexity of installation and the high consumption of materials.

Why is the riser hot and the batteries cold?

Sometimes, with a hot supply, the return of the heating battery still remains cold. There are several main reasons for this:

• installation was performed incorrectly;
• the system or one of the risers of a separate radiator is airborne;
• insufficient fluid flow;
• the cross-section of the pipe through which the coolant is supplied has decreased;
• The heating circuit is dirty.

Cold return is a serious problem that must be eliminated. It entails many unpleasant consequences: the room temperature does not reach the desired level, the efficiency of radiators decreases, there is no way to correct the situation additional devices. As a result, the heating system does not work as it should.

The main trouble with cold return is the large temperature difference that occurs between the supply and return temperatures. In this case, condensation appears on the walls of the boiler, reacting with carbon dioxide, which is released during fuel combustion. As a result, acid is formed, which corrodes the walls of the boiler and shortens its service life.

How to make radiators hot - looking for solutions

If you find that the return is too cold, you should take a number of steps to find the causes and troubleshoot problems. First of all, you need to check that the connection is correct. If the connection is not made correctly, the down pipe will be hot when it should be slightly warm. The pipes should be connected according to the diagram.

To avoid air pockets that impede the flow of coolant, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a Mayevsky valve or bleeder for air removal. Before bleeding the air, you need to turn off the supply, open the tap and let out the air. Then the tap is turned off and the heating valves open.

Often the cause of cold return is the control valve: the cross-section is narrowed. In this case, the tap must be dismantled and the cross-section increased using a special tool. But it is better to buy a new faucet and replace it.

The reason may be clogged pipes. You need to check them for passability, remove dirt and deposits, and clean them well. If passability cannot be restored, the clogged areas should be replaced with new ones.

If the coolant flow rate is insufficient, you need to check whether there is a circulation pump and whether it meets the power requirements. If it is missing, it is advisable to install it, and if there is a lack of power, replace or upgrade it.

Knowing the reasons why heating may not work efficiently, you can independently identify and eliminate malfunctions. Comfort in the house during the cold season depends on the quality of heating. If you carry out the installation and inspection of the heating system yourself, you can save on hiring third-party labor.

Law of Hydraulics: Any flowing fluid chooses the path of least resistance. In the heating network of a private house, the rule works like this: the coolant pushed by the pump tends to pass through the first radiator or the shortest circuit of heated floors. As a result, remote rooms of the building warm up much worse. For uniform distribution of flows, hydraulic balancing of the heating system is necessary. We'll tell you how to adjust radiators and underfloor heating hinges with your own hands.

When to balance the system

Theoretically, adjustment of heating radiators is necessary in any case. Design engineer designing and calculating water system, sets the coolant flow rate for each radiator and underfloor heating circuit. After installation, filling and crimping pipeline network the contractor is obliged to adjust the heat supply, focusing on the design parameters in the project.

Important point. Calculation of the heat demand and the corresponding consumption of heated water is done for the most unfavorable conditions - the minimum street temperature. Therefore, at the beginning of the settings, all radiator and other control valves are fully opened, and the boiler is brought to maximum operating mode.

Since the average homeowner only cares about warmth and comfort inside the home, it is recommended to take on the balancing yourself in the following cases:

1. The radiators closest to the boiler heat up noticeably more than the radiators further away, respectively, the rooms are hot or cool (the temperature difference is too large).
2. One of the radiators makes a distinct noise - the murmur of flowing water.
3. Pipes embedded in the screed heat the floors unevenly.
4. In the process of setting up a new heating circuit, assembled with your own hands.

If, with properly installed heating, the temperature in the distant rooms is significantly lower, the system needs to be balanced

Note. It is assumed that the fittings, equipment and heating devices are selected correctly, the system is filled with coolant, and there are no other defects. Otherwise, it is pointless to engage in hydraulic balancing - you will get zero results.

When you should not regulate the distribution of coolant to batteries:

1. If the radiator network and heated floors work flawlessly. It’s not worth turning the valves over and over again - due to inexperience, you can make things worse.
2. When various problems are detected - air in the batteries, leakage, clogged radiator or balancing valves, rupture of the expansion tank membrane, etc. First, fix the problem and check the heating is working properly. There may be no need for adjustment.
3. It is strictly not recommended to interfere with work central heating apartment building, install additional taps and valves into common risers. The exception is multi-storey new buildings with individual thermal inputs to each apartment.

Water flow is regulated exclusively by balance valves, ball valves are 100% open

Tools and devices for balancing

To independently adjust the heating radiators and heated floors of a private house, you will need a minimum of equipment:

• electronic contact thermometer;
• screwdriver;
• thumb or wrench to rotate the rod balancing valve(a hexagon is usually used);
• sheet of paper, pencil.

Reference. Professional plumbers often use a thermal imager, which gives a clear picture of the heating of all heating devices. The device is expensive, so we’ll make do with simpler means.

To measure temperature, it is better to use an electronic contact-type device.

Instead of the specified thermometer, it is allowed to use a remote (non-contact) pyrometer. Please note: the device measures the temperature of shiny surfaces with a small error. This note applies to radiators with new paintwork.

If you do not have a wiring diagram for a residential building, you should sketch it on paper before starting work. The sketch will help you understand the order in which the batteries are connected to the mains and the distance from the furnace room. Also flush the mud trap at the entrance to the boiler and heat the system to a temperature of 70-80 °C, regardless of the street weather.

A modern circulation pump is a great help in setting up Grundfos Alpha 3, which accurately shows the depth of adjustments via a mobile application. The downside is the decent price of the unit (starts at 240 USD).

Radiator network adjustment

The balancing method practiced by our expert is equally suitable for closed one-pipe and two-pipe heating systems country cottages. Manifold wiring and heated floors are regulated in a different way, which we will discuss in the next section.

The essence of the technique is to measure the surface temperature of all radiators and eliminate the difference by limiting the coolant flow. How to adjust radiators using a thermometer:

1. Warm up the coolant to 70-80 °C, open everything completely. If the boiler does not show the actual supply water temperature, determine it yourself by placing a meter on the metal outlet pipe.

   Initially, the valve preset ring is adjusted to maximum flow

2. Measure the surface temperature of the first radiator supply in two places - near the supply and return connections. If the difference is within 10 degrees, the battery warms up normally.
3. Repeat the operation on all heating devices, recording the readings. Move along each heating branch, one by one recording the temperature of the batteries up to the last one.
4. If the temperature difference between the supply of the first and last radiator does not exceed 2 °C, close the valves of the first two batteries by 0.5-1 turns and repeat the measurements.

   The measurement is taken at the supply and return pipes, the maximum permissible difference is 10 degrees

5. When the difference reaches 3-7 degrees, control valves The first heaters close by 50-70% (calculated by valve speeds), the middle ones - by 30-40%, the last devices remain completely open.
6. Wait 20-30 minutes to allow the batteries to warm up after the new settings, then repeat the measurements. The goal is to achieve a normal difference of 2 °C (3 degrees is allowed for long highways) between the last and first device.
7. Repeat the adjustment procedure, turning the balance valves a quarter or half a turn, until you achieve the same heating of all batteries. “Listen” to each radiator for noise indicating increased coolant consumption.

Important point. Don’t get carried away by excessively tightening the taps; you won’t get any savings this way. Compare the temperature at the inlet and outlet of the heater - if the difference exceeds 10 °C, the valve must be released. Due to too little coolant flow, the room will become cold.

Approximate adjustment of the batteries of a closed two-pipe system is shown using the example of a heating circuit for a two-story house. Why is it approximate: the number of batteries to be closed and the number of turns of the tap are purely individual for each wiring; it is necessary to understand it locally. If you doubt the correctness of your actions, press down the coolant gradually, making half a turn of the valve and repeating the measurements.

As a rule, a single-pipe “Leningrad” of 3-4 batteries does not need balancing; it is enough to lightly “press” the first radiator. In the associated wiring (), you need to limit the first and last device. An expert will show you the adjustment procedure more clearly in the video:

Warm floors and radiant wiring

Since the underfloor heating circuits and radiator radiators are connected to a common one, balancing is done directly on the collector. The setting method depends on the availability of rotameters - transparent flow meter flasks installed on the supply or return lines.

To correctly configure the coolant supply using rotameters, you should calculate the water flow through each loop using the formula:

• G – mass flow rate of heated water flowing through the circuit, kg/h;
• Q – the amount of heat that the circuit or radiator should release into the room, W;
• Δt – temperature difference at the inlet and outlet of the loop, the calculated value is taken to be 10 °C.

The power of one floor circuit Q is determined based on the heat demand of a separate room. The parameter is calculated according to the specific ratio of 100 W/m² of room area or according to the heating method. The flowmeter scales are marked in l/min, which means the result must be divided by 60.

Calculation example. Heating a room with an area of ​​10 square meters requires 1 kW of heat. Coolant consumption will be 0.86 x 1000 / 10 = 86 kg/h or 86 / 60 ≈ 1.43 l/min.

Clarification. If the room is large and has separate water loops, we also divide the calculated flow rate in half.

Here the rotameters are installed on the supply line of the comb, but can also be installed on the return line

Further balancing of the underfloor heating loops is carried out according to the instructions:

Reference. On the collectors different manufacturers flow meters are installed on the supply or return manifold (they are also structurally different). To adjust the maximum flow, the location of the rotameters does not matter.

Beam batteries are balanced in a similar way. To be sure, you can combine 2 options - according to the calculated flow rate and the temperature of the radiator surface (the method is described in the previous section).

Scheme of flow control with a rotameter. The flow rate through each circuit is shown by control washers in transparent flasks, the unit of measurement is liters per minute

If, in order to save money, you managed to buy a collector without rotameters, the setup will take several days. The goal is to achieve the same temperature in the return pipelines of all loops. That is, the initial installation is made approximately according to the power and length of the circuit, then the return temperature is measured and the flow rate is adjusted.

To check the balancing of the heated floor, you need to start the heating boiler. Negative point: after adjusting the flow rate, you will have to wait several hours until the thickness of the concrete warms up and the temperature of the return lines stabilizes.

Conclusion

A radiator heating network with short branches can be balanced without any problems. If the length of the arms of a two-pipe wiring varies greatly, the task becomes somewhat more complicated. But don’t worry - a difference of 3 degrees between the last and first radiator is considered normal in this case. Please note one nuance: heating balancing is carried out at maximum heating of the system; in operating mode, the water temperature will drop to 50...60 °C, the difference of 3 °C will also decrease.

In apartments or private houses, residents often encounter the phenomenon uneven heating of radiators heating in different parts of the home. Such situations are typical in cases where the premises are connected to autonomous heating systems.

How optimize the system heating (CO), stop overpaying and how installing a heat regulator for batteries will help - we’ll look at it further.

Why do you need heat regulation in an apartment?

For what reasons do citizens more often adjust the heat in their residential premises:

1. Arises the need to create in the house as much as possible comfortable conditions for life.
2. Should get rid of excess air in batteries, achieve efficient heat transfer into interior spaces.
3. Timely installation of regulators allows refrain from frequent ventilation when the air overheats using open windows.
4. Properly selected heating regulators and their proper use will allow reduce the amount of payments for this service by a quarter.

Important! Manipulations to install the CO regulator should be carried out before the start of the heating season. In the midst of frost, such a procedure will require shutting off not only the heating in own apartment, but also in neighboring ones, which will create certain inconveniences.

Setting the return and supply temperatures in an apartment building

Installing a heating system regulator will depend on its general structure. If the CO is installed individually for a specific room, the improvement process takes place due to the following factors:

• system works from an individual boiler;
• installed special three-way valve;
• coolant pumping is happening forcibly.

In general, for all COs, power adjustment work will consist of installing a special valve on the battery itself.

With its help you can not only adjust heat level in the right premises, but also eliminate the heating process altogether in areas that are poorly used or do not function.

There are the following nuances in the process of adjusting the heat level:

1. Central heating systems that are installed in multi-storey buildings, are often based on coolants, where feeding occurs strictly vertically from top to bottom. In such houses, it is hot on the upper floors and cold on the lower floors, so it will not be possible to adjust the heating level accordingly.
2. If used in homes single-pipe network, then the heat from central riser is supplied to each battery and returned back, which ensures uniform heat on all floors of the building. In such cases, it is easier to install heat control valves - installation takes place on the supply pipe and the heat continues to spread evenly.
3. For two pipe system There are already two risers installed - heat is supplied to the radiator and in the opposite direction, accordingly the adjustment valve can be install in two places - on each of the batteries.

Types of Battery Control Valves

Modern technologies do not stand still and allow you to install for each heating radiator high quality and reliable crane, which will control the heat and heating levels. It is connected to the battery with special pipes, which does not take much time.

By type of adjustment I distinguish two types of valves:

1. Conventional thermostats with direct action. Installed next to the radiator, it is a small cylinder, inside of which the siphon based on liquid or gas, which quickly and competently responds to any temperature changes. If the temperature of the battery rises, the liquid or gas in such a valve expands, causing pressure to valve stem heat regulator, which will move and block the flow. Accordingly, if the temperature drops, the process will be reversed.

Photo 1. Scheme internal structure thermostat for battery. The main parts of the mechanism are indicated.

1. Thermostats based on electronic sensors. The principle of operation is similar to conventional regulators, only the settings differ - everything can be done not manually, but electronically - set the functions in advance, with a possible time delay and temperature control.

How to adjust heating radiators

Standard process for regulating the temperature of heating radiators consists of four stages— bleeding air, adjusting pressure, opening valves and pumping coolant.

1. Bleeding air. Each radiator has a special valve, by opening which you can release excess air and steam that interferes with the heating of the battery. Within half an hour after such a procedure, the required heating temperature must be achieved.
2. Pressure adjustment. To distribute the pressure in the CO evenly, you can turn shut-off valves different batteries attached to one heating boiler for different numbers of revolutions. This adjustment of the radiators will allow you to heat the room as quickly as possible.
3. Opening valves. Installation of special three way valves on radiators will allow you to remove heat in unused rooms or limit heating, for example, while you are away from the apartment during the day. It is enough to simply close the valve completely or partially.

Photo 2. Three-way valve with thermostat, allowing you to easily adjust the temperature of the heating radiator.

1. Coolant pumping. If the CO is forced, the coolant is pumped using control valves, with the help of which a certain amount of water is drained to give the heating radiator the opportunity to heat up.

Adjusting heating in a private house

In private homes, it is necessary to pay attention to heating systems even at the time of design, you should choose a high-quality boiler or other heating equipment.

You can regulate the heating in your home using special technical devices two types:

• regulating— installed both in individual sections of the network and for the entire CO, they help control and regulate the pressure level in the system, increase or decrease it;
• controlling- various sensors and thermometers, with the help of which information is obtained about the pressure level and other parameters of the heating system and there is the possibility of adjusting them in one direction or another.

To timely monitor the operation of the CO in the house, you need provide for the installation of pressure gauges and thermometers in areas before and after the heating boiler, at the lower and upper points of the heating system, installation of an expansion tank, safety valves, air vents. If the heating system is working correctly, the water in it should not heat above 90 °C, and the pressure will not exceed 1.5-3 atmospheres.