Work in the garden in early September. September – what to do at the dacha and in the garden in September
In September, you should take proper care of fruit trees. Tree trunk circles can be sown with mustard or oats, and also mulched to retain moisture. There is no need to feed trees with nitrogen-containing fertilizers in September. They can cause intensive growth of young shoots that cannot withstand frost. Meanwhile, it would not be superfluous to treat fruit trees against various pests with special preparations for preventive purposes.
If you plan to plant new trees or shrubs on the site, prepare in September planting pits for them. In a sandy area, a layer of clay should be poured onto the bottom, and in a clayey area, drainage should be made from stones or construction waste. You can also put well-chopped vegetable waste and nutritious soil.
September is harvest time. As a rule, at this time they keep up winter varieties apples If there are such on your site, the fruits should be carefully removed from the tree and placed in boxes with holes. Perfect option- wooden container.
Garden
In September, work is in full swing for summer residents! It is necessary to collect potatoes, cabbage, beets in a timely manner, and also prepare the beds for the winter. Bulgarian must be removed when the air temperature is consistently less than 15 degrees. Pepper hanging on the bushes with such climatic conditions there's no point anymore. It is better to harvest cabbage at the end of September, carrots and beets at the end of the month.Don't leave the ground bare. In the vacated beds you can sow lettuce, dill or coriander. Believe me, a month before the onset of autumn cold, you will still have fresh greens growing.
Flower garden
In September it is necessary to dig up gladioli. It is better to do this in the third ten days of the month. In addition, at the end of the month you should clean up the flower garden: remove faded flowers and dig up the soil in place of the annuals. It would be advisable to treat rose bushes against diseases. At the end of September you can plant daffodils, tulips, hazel grouse and lilies.
The main work that a flower garden needs in September is related to planting bulbous crops. Areas for planting bulbs are prepared in advance in May, and in the summer they are kept fallow. Before digging, add 200-300 g per 1 sq.m. to the soil. wood ash and mineral fertilizers (per 1 sq.m.):
- - 50 g of superphosphate;
- - 40 g of potassium sulfate;
- - 12 g of ammonium nitrate.
At the beginning of the month, small-bulb crops are planted, adhering to the rule “the smaller the bulb, the shallower the depth of its planting.” Thus, the bulbs of muscari, crocus, kandyk, pushkinia, scylla are planted to a depth of 8 cm, chionodoxa and snowdrop - 10 cm, colchicum and whiteflower - 15 cm. A distance of 10 to 15 cm is maintained between plantings.
Daffodils are planted in the second half of September, having previously been treated planting material a solution of any fungicidal agent or a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. Large bulbs planted to a depth of 15 cm (counting from the bottom of the bulb) and at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
Starting from the second half of the month, they begin to plant tulips - it is desirable that the air temperature at this time varies within +9...+10°. Tulips are planted at a depth equal to three times the length of the planted bulb. The recommended average distance between plantings is 7-8 cm.
When planting bulbous plants, you should first add clean soil to the bottom of the hole or ridge. river sand layer of 2-3 cm. This will have a beneficial effect on the further growth of crops.
Part of the flower garden plan in September involves pruning faded perennials. So, blooming in summer semi-shrub plants (lavender, sage, santolina) are pruned to the base to maintain their compactness. Plants that bloom in spring, on the contrary, try not to cut them low. Bushy perennials - phlox, chrysanthemums, alpine asters - are cut close to the ground, after which they are fed with compost. In irises and daylilies, only the flower stalks are cut off - the so-called. "lightening pruning"
In early September, work in the flower garden involves hilling dahlias, which is carried out to a height of 15-18 cm. This will protect vulnerable parts of the plants from frost. In the second half of the month, dahlias are cut, the tubers are dug up, dried for 2-3 days and sent for storage. It is best to store tubers in a box with sand or peat in a dry basement at a temperature of +3...+8°.
Low-growing dahlias (Jolly Fellows), grown from seeds, manage to form tubers by autumn. Enterprising summer residents dig up the resulting tubers and put them in the basement for the winter. Planted in spring, they will bloom much earlier than other crops.
Until the middle of the month they are still working with many flowers - delphinium, astilbe, clematis, helenium are divided and replanted, planted on permanent place seedlings of biennial plants - pansies, daisies, mallows, daffodils, Turkish cloves. Large plants are planted at intervals of 0.5 - 1 m from each other, small ones - 0.2 - 0.3 m. After planting, the soil in the beds is mulched with compost or peat.
At the end of September, gladioli corms are dug up. Before being sent for storage, they are dried, maintaining the room temperature within +23...+25°.
When carrying out planned work in the flower garden in September, do not forget about clematis. Their plantings are kept clean, the soil is loosened and watered on dry days. At the end of the month, the soil around the clematis is treated with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole, which prevents the development of fungal diseases.
There is still a lot of work to do in the garden: harvesting, planting berry bushes, strawberries, putting the garden plantings in order.
We collect and store apples
When picking apples, do not shake or knock them off the branches. If they are damaged they will not last long. You need to carefully, without pressing, take the apple in your hand and simply turn it clockwise or counterclockwise, and it will come off.
Fruits affected by fruit rot or bitter pitting (even spot lesions) should not be stored.
Harvesting apples.
Fruits affected by scab at the beginning of summer can be stored well. But if the damage is caused by late scab, for example in August, the fruits in storage will rot. Fruits damaged by leaf rollers or second-generation codling moths also rot.
Planting strawberries and berry bushes
If you didn’t have time to plant strawberries in August, try to do it before mid-September so that they have time to take root properly before the cold weather begins.
The main care for strawberries in September is watering, covering exposed roots, freeing strawberry hearts, and loosening row spacing.
At the beginning of September, prepare planting holes fruit trees to plant seedlings in early October.
For berry bush seedlings, cut off broken branches after leaf fall. Cut off and burn the ends of the shoots affected powdery mildew. It is better to plant them from September 20 to October 10. When planting berries in the fall, do not prune them, except for raspberries, for which pruning increases winter hardiness.
Can be sprinkled with soil horizontal layering of currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, chokeberry for reproduction.
If you made cuttings of shrubs in the spring, at the end of September you can dig them up and plant strong seedlings with roots no shorter than 20 cm in a permanent place. Weak ones - for growing.
Shoots of non-frost-resistant varieties At the end of September, carefully bend the raspberries to the ground along the row and tie them to a neighboring bush.
To prevent diseases, you can spray the bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Trap belts on tree trunks.
To protect trees from the winter moth, the females of which climb up the trunk in late autumn to lay eggs on the leaves, apply glue rings or cardboard funnels greased with non-drying glue from the inside, directed with the bell down.
We process tree trunks and shrubs
An important autumn event is digging up the soil in the trunk circles of fruit trees and berry bushes. This is necessary to loosen the soil and allow air and moisture to penetrate into it.
In addition, digging up the soil in the garden disrupts the overwintering conditions of pests - sawflies, caterpillars and pupae of harmful butterflies. Some of them fall into the depths during digging and will not be able to get out in the spring; some turn out to the surface of the soil and die from frost.
You should not dig the soil under the trees deeply to avoid damaging the fibrous roots. Light loosening of the top layer is sufficient.
If you don’t dig up the soil in the fall, you’ll have to do it in the spring, when there will be a lot of work to do in the garden. But the main thing is that you will promptly provide useful activity to microorganisms that create fertile soil.
In the spring, it is enough to harrow the soil cultivated in the fall with a rake lengthwise and crosswise.
When digging in the fall, it is necessary to add rotted manure or compost to the clay soil. They can be replaced with blackened sawdust or chopped straw.
Fresh sawdust must first be enriched with one of the nitrogen-containing fertilizers:
- urea
- ammonium nitrate.
Fill three buckets of sawdust with a solution (3 tablespoons per bucket of water).
After this, put the enriched sawdust in a pile and cover with film for a month. They bring them in 2 buckets per square meter. m clay soil or 10 sq. m of loamy soil.
We process the tree trunk circles.
If you couldn't add manure or compost and you don’t have sawdust, dig fresh stems and leaves of perennial lupine, beans, beans, beet tops and carrots onto the bayonet of a shovel - this is a good organic fertilizer.
Crushed stems of marigolds and marigolds embedded in the soil cleanse it of pests and fungal diseases.
Together with organic fertilizer coarse river sand is added. Some gardeners replace it with construction sand, which helps compact the soil.
In autumn they grow intensively apple and pear roots. They need to be fed: per 1 sq. m 3-5 kg of organic matter, 10-12 g of potash fertilizers, 30-40 g of superphosphate. Fertilizers are applied when digging tree trunk circles. The land must be pre-watered.
Don't forget to mow your lawn before winter. If this is not done, in the spring it will be difficult for the grass to grow through the sod and it will emerge unevenly.
Last weeding Spend under trees and berry bushes at the end of the month and leave the weeds right there.
You can read more about processing tree trunk circles
To water or not to water garden trees in September
You cannot water trees in September: this can cause secondary growth of shoots and possible freezing in winter. In prolonged dry weather, you can water young trees that do not bear fruit.
In young apple and pear trees, pinch out strongly growing shoots so that the wood ripens before the onset of severe frosts. Trim the vines in October to avoid weeding.
Carry out sanitary pruning of trees. Cut into a ring (until the ring is formed at the base of the branch) all dried and diseased branches. Cover all cuts with garden varnish. Remove or loosen the film on budding and grafted cuttings.
What work can gardeners expect in September?
Your garden: work of the month.
September, although an autumn month, is full of summer worries: you need to water and feed the vegetable beds; it’s not too late to sow some crops:
- radish
- salad
- dill
- rukulu
- Japanese cabbage
- spinach
In a word, if we are going to extend the vegetable season until late autumn, we won’t have to sit idly by; there is still a lot to do. So what kind of work needs to be done in the garden in September?
We are beginning to prepare the ground for next year's harvest.
Summer is over... True, there are still many warm days ahead. Precisely warm ones, not sultry ones, when you don’t want to go out into the sun.
In September, spring performance will return to us. And the time required for watering and loosening is much less than in summer. And that's by the way. After all, there is so much to be done: to find a use for the grown crop, and to restore the tired land for the next season.
Preparing the beds.
The latter is perhaps no less important than the former. Therefore, if the cucumbers in the garden no longer please you (the leaves have turned yellow, there is no growth, and therefore no harvest), do not wait until the vines are completely dry. Empty the bed, add half a bucket of compost or humus, a tablespoon of complex fertilizer per square meter, dig up and sow with green manure.
If you plan to sow early-ripening vegetables or plant potatoes in this area next season, the following will be suitable as green fertilizer:
- mustard
- phacelia
- peas
Before the onset of stable cold weather, you will embed these green manures shallowly into the soil and in the spring you will have a bed with rested, fertilized soil.
If you are going to occupy a cucumber bed in May with nightshade crops and plant tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants here, then you can sow the area with winter rye in order to incorporate it into the soil in the spring.
Cucumbers are considered good predecessors of garlic. Therefore, you can prepare the vacant bed for this crop. This must be done in advance so that the soil in the garden bed has time to settle and the cloves can be
the cages were not drawn to excessive depth.
We add humus to the vacant beds.
Add up to a bucket of humus or compost, a tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate (or a spoonful of nitrophoska) and dig it onto the bayonet of a shovel. The bed is leveled, and if the soil is dry, then it is watered to provoke the germination of weeds and destroy them before planting the garlic.
Do you want to get on the vacant bed autumn harvest radishes, lettuce, dill? This is also an option: changing crops gives the soil rest. Just when harvesting the radishes, leave the tops in the garden: let them at least partially repay the “debts” to the soil.
Don’t try to keep it in the beds tomato bushes that gave up their main harvest before frost early varieties. A few unripe fruits can be put to use (preserved, put for ripening), and plants crushed with a shovel can be placed in compost or as the bottom layer in a garden bed.
But you can only chop it up and put it in compost healthy plants. Sick plants will have to be burned.
We clean, take care, hurry...
If you don't have a refrigerator for winter supplies, do not rush to harvest root crops intended for storage. It will be warm in the basements for a long time and there is no point in putting vegetables down there - they will begin to wither.
And even more so, do not rush to dig up the parsnips: the later you remove them, the more significant the root crops will be. You can dig them even after frost, and some can be left in the garden bed in the winter - for the spring table or for obtaining seeds.
Let's pester you again petiole celery. To make the petioles juicier and more tender, we feed the celery with mullein infusion, adding a tablespoon of complex fertilizers (per 10 liters).
Eat the leeks.
We continue to loosen leek. If we see that after all our thinning it is still growing thickly, we pull out the weaker plants and use them for culinary purposes. Hill up the plants again to get larger bleached stems.
We continue to court for summer-sown cucumbers, seedless and indeterminate tomatoes, peppers, eggplants: they still have at least another month to harvest.
If there are a lot of ugly fruits on the cucumbers, feed them with organic infusion or mineral fertilizers: a teaspoon of urea and potassium sulfate per square meter. m. You can carry out foliar fertilizing with urea (1 g of fertilizer per liter of water).
In September they take shape favorable conditions for the development of powdery mildew on cucumbers, zucchini, late blight on tomatoes.
We will not use chemical fungicides, since they have a long waiting period, and biological drugs(phytosporin-M. alirin-B) can be treated to help the plants last until the end of the season.
Cucumbers sown in August can be covered with non-woven material so that they do not suffer from temperature changes and do not get sick.
Cut off completely sorrel leaves if they are affected by powdery mildew. They still have time to grow.
Feeding perennial vegetables
It won't be superfluous feeding (a tablespoon of autumn complex mineral fertilizer per sq. m) and for perennial vegetables: onion, slug, chives, sorrel, rhubarb, asparagus.
An adult rhubarb bush can be planted at the end of the month. The dug up rhizome is cut with a knife so that each section has a good bud and 1-2 large roots. We keep the roots in the sun for several hours to dry the wounds.
Meanwhile We prepare planting holes: we dig them 80-100 cm apart from each other, fill them with compost or humus (3-5 kg), complex mineral fertilizer (up to two tablespoons per hole) and spill them well with water. We mulch the planted cuttings with compost or humus.
Paying attention to cabbage
Considering the weather, reduced daylight hours, cool nights, we reduce watering for mid-season and late cabbage, otherwise cracking of the heads of cabbage is inevitable. We immediately cut off the heads of cabbage that begin to crack, without waiting for them to burst completely, and use them for business. You can also ferment it.
You can’t break off cabbage lower leaves. Some summer residents are convinced that such an operation helps the heads of cabbage to ripen better. This is a misconception.
But we continue to loosen the cabbage rows after each watering and rain. This stimulates the work of the roots and, therefore, makes the cabbage more nutritious, tasty and juicy.
Cabbage in September can be damaged by slugs: they really like the early autumn weather. To reduce the number of these slippery pests, you will have to collect them manually (preferably with tweezers) early in the morning or evening from plants, sprinkle wet soil around the cabbage with mustard powder and wood ash.
And, of course, lay out There are boards and rags next to the beds in order to destroy the slugs hiding under them in the morning.
Hurry up to harvest before the rains.
At the end of the month, we trim the tops of Brussels sprouts so that the plants direct all the nutrients to the heads that have already formed on the stem.
On the pumpkin vines We pinch the growing points so that at least 5-7 leaves remain before the fruit. We reduce watering, giving the grown pumpkins the opportunity to ripen. We also pinch the growing points of the melons.
You need to remove the onions before the rains
While it's dry and warm, remove late varieties onions grown from seeds. Warm weather September will allow it to dry well and protect it from neck rot.
The sun is no longer so merciless, so the dug up bulbs, laid in one layer, can be dried directly in the garden bed. We stir the bulbs from time to time. From well-dried onions, the loosely fitting upper scales easily fall off, and the onion becomes clean and beautiful.
Don't forget about potatoes
Without waiting for the rains, it is advisable to dig up potatoes planted in May. And yet, first make sure that the tubers are ripe, because these potatoes will have to be stored. The skin on the tubers should be dense and non-sucking.
When digging up potatoes, we do not throw them into a bucket, but carefully place them. Injured tubers easily become sick.
After digging, immediately dry the potatoes, spreading them in a thin layer, and then transfer them indoors for 2-3 weeks. During this time, wounds caused during harvesting become scarred on the tubers, and diseases appear.
Lower the potatoes We’re not in a hurry to go to the basement: it’s humid and warm there. And the storage needs to be prepared to receive the new harvest.
Feeding plants planted in July
In September we continue to care for vegetables planted in the second half of summer. We feed the bloomed potatoes with wood ash, scattering it between the rows. Immediately loosen and water.
Feed the potatoes.
Instead of ash, you can use complex potato fertilizer or simply one with a reduced nitrogen content (a tablespoon per sq. m). In autumn, excess nitrogen is especially dangerous for potatoes: it increases the likelihood of plants being damaged by late blight.
We feed with a mixture of organic infusion (0.5 l) and complex mineral fertilizer (a tablespoon per 10 l of water). cauliflower and broccoli planted in July.
Sprinkle the beds of daikon and radish with wood ash. This is both feeding and protection against cruciferous pests.
It is advisable to cover cucumbers sown in August with lutrasil to reduce the negative impact of changes in night and day temperatures.
Collecting a “herbarium” for the kitchen
Very sensitive to low temperatures many spices. Parsley, dill, and celery still have the whole of October ahead of them, but basil, marjoram, lemon balm and other herbs are a must, without putting them off until later.
Once dried, they can be ground in a coffee grinder and scattered into different jars. In winter, herbs can be mixed and used to season meat, fish, salads, soups, make tea from them, add to cookie dough, etc.
Such homemade “spices” are undoubtedly better than store-bought ones, because we know for sure that nothing was added to them for taste and aroma.
A trimmed basil bush can be dug up and transplanted into a small pot filled with fertile soil mixture. If you cut off the flower panicles in time, the plant will delight you with fragrant leaves on the kitchen window for a long time.
Just don’t put off replanting until October: basil dies even when the temperature drops briefly to zero.
What to do in the flower garden
At the beginning of autumn, flower growers also have a lot of work. Read about it
So autumn has come to our garden, which is now unusually beautiful in its finery. There are crimson viburnum, and rowan with hawthorn, and the red beauty of sea buckthorn. The apples are clouded with a ruddy kiss, and the autumn companions - asters - are elegantly colorful in the garden.
My eyes are hot and my hands are already chilly. The water is getting cold country pond, from heavy dew, dragonfly wings stick together and plants bend to the ground. And somewhere high up the geese are already cackling...
It's a great time - Golden autumn! The hottest time for work summer cottage It’s already behind us, but it’s still too early to relax, because September has brought us the long-awaited fruits of our labors. And the main gardening in September are harvesting, processing and storing it.
From a real summer resident gardening in September there will be quite a few, since right now the prospect of next year’s harvest is being laid.
We must also make sure that our green pets survive the winter well.
So, with the onset of autumn, the garden will both treat us and force us to work hard.
Harvesting
The apple crisis is in full swing. The fruits of the summer varieties have already been safely eaten, and now the time has come for the late autumn and early winter varieties of apples and pears.
Our task now is to harvest the harvest on time. On the one hand, the longer the fruits remain on the tree, the better - their taste improves and their shelf life increases. On the other hand, the longer the fruits remain on the tree, the greater the risk of waiting for frost or prolonged rains. But fruits collected at such a time are no longer subject to long-term storage.
Apples and pears themselves will give you a signal that they are ready to pick. Here are several signs of reaching removable maturity: easy separation of the fruit from the stalk, cessation of its growth, coloring of seeds Brown color and acquiring the characteristic color of the fruit itself for a given variety.
Ripe fruits literally fall into your hand when you lightly touch them. If any of them are not yet ready to say goodbye to the tree, do not tear them off with force; it is better to let them hang a little longer and ripen.
Harvesting apples and pears is a complex and labor-intensive process. The fruits must be removed carefully, without pressing, without damaging the stem, so that they can be preserved longer.
We begin to collect fruits from the lower branches, then gradually move to the upper part of the crown. And under no circumstances should you pull or twist them around the stem! Simply grab the apple or pear with your palm, and with your index finger, gently press the stalk where it attaches to the fruit branch and slightly lift the fruit.
It is advisable to immediately sort the fruits during harvesting, dividing them into large, medium, and small. Apples are preserved longer and better if you put them in wooden boxes or carton boxes and sprinkle with sawdust.
Also, I remind you that harvesting should only be done in dry weather.
It is advisable to collect rotten apples and carrion daily, take them out of the garden and bury them.
Having freed the fruit trees from the burden, we carefully remove the supports holding the branches, put them in order and put them away until the next season.
We apply fertilizers
Ash is the most valuable fertilizer
Our plants spent a lot of effort to grow such a wonderful harvest and now we need to help the plants restore them, because they have winter ahead, and this is a difficult period. Increased nutrition will help plants get stronger for winter.
In addition, in the last ten days of September, the trees will begin intensive root growth, so it is necessary that there is enough moisture in the soil and nutrients.
So let's get down to feeding and don't put it off until later, as every week of delay threatens our future harvests.
Apple and pear trees Fertilizing with organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is very necessary. We apply about 3-5 kg of organic fertilizers, 10-12 g of potassium and 30-40 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. m. to the apple tree. meter. Potassium fertilizers increase the frost resistance of plants, and phosphorus is responsible for the amount of the future harvest.
We distribute fertilizing along the perimeter of the tree crown, because there are active suction roots, and closer to the trunk there are mainly conductive roots that are not able to accept fertilizing.
We spread the fertilizers as evenly as possible and embed them into the soil by digging or loosening to a depth of 5 to 20 cm. The depth of digging depends on the age of the plant and the depth of the roots.
You can also apply fertilizers in grooves that are dug around the circumference trunk circle, and you can also apply fertilizers in liquid form.
If the weather is dry, be sure to first water the soil to a depth of 35-40 cm.
Currants and gooseberries also necessary mineral nutrition. For the first three years, if you filled the soil very well when planting, you don’t need to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
But after this period, they are already necessary for the autumn digging of the soil. For each bush we apply (approximate dose): 10-15 kg of organic fertilizers, 80-120 g of superphosphate and 30-50 g of potassium chloride.
In September it is very useful for berry bushes to carry out foliar feeding a solution of superphosphate and potassium salt (1 cup of superphosphate and ½ cup of potassium salt per bucket of water).
Repairing strawberries You can feed throughout September with fermented mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15, or bird droppings diluted in a ratio of 1:30, or weed infusion. For every 10 liters of infusion, you can add half a glass of ash and Matchbox urea.
From mid-September, urea must be eliminated.
Grape also responds very well to fertilizers, especially phosphorus and potash.
After harvesting, apply root fertilizing with potassium monophosphate (30-40 g per bucket), combining with watering the bushes (once every 15 days). You can also use potassium magnesia.
But still for grapes the most the best fertilizer is considered manure, and on any soil. Manure can provide the vine with: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, as well as microelements. It must be applied once every three years in the fall during digging, about 6-8 kg per 1 square meter of soil.
Phosphorus (superphosphate) and potassium (sulfuric acid or potassium chloride) fertilizers (50-60 g per 1 square meter) can also be applied in the fall once every 3-4 years to maintain the phosphorus-potassium nutrition regime.
Ash can also be used for grapes as a phosphorus fertilizer.
Garden treatment
After harvesting, but before leaf fall, trees and shrubs must be treated with a urea solution (500 g per bucket of water). It is good to add about 700 g of potassium chloride to the same solution - it must first be soaked in hot water.
Spraying with this solution protects plants from pathogens of many fungal diseases, as well as from pests such as aphids, mites, and psyllids.
Carefully process not only the trees themselves (leaves, trunks, shoots), but also the ground under the trees. After such treatment, the plants will not be afraid of even those pests that overwinter in the soil.
And if you notice signs of moniliosis on stone fruits in the garden, then remove and burn affected and withered fruit branches, shoots, and hanging fruits. Also dig up the trunk circles, carefully embedding fallen leaves and affected fruits into the soil.
If the disease spreads strongly, carry out autumn spraying nitrafen solution, at the rate of 200-300 g per 10 liters of water.
If tinder fungi appear, we urgently remove them, clean the affected areas until they reach healthy wood, and disinfect them with 2-3% copper sulfate and cover with garden varnish.
On fine September days, you can whiten the trunks and forks of skeletal branches with a special water-based paint for garden work.
It is good because it is not washed away by prolonged autumn rains until spring, thereby protecting trees from sunburn in spring, when at the end of February-March, after cloudy winter weather, a very bright sun appears, enhanced by reflection from the snow.
But it will be even better if you wrap the trunks with polypropylene fiber - white synthetic sugar or cereal bags.
In the spring, most often we will not be able to whitewash the trees so early, and late spring whitewashing is completely pointless. Whitewashing with chalk is the same, since it is completely washed off before spring.
A spring burns bark is very dangerous, as it subsequently leads to its death, and in the case of a ring lesion, to the death of large branches and the entire tree.
Pruning for beauty and benefit
September is the most optimal time for pruning and refining fruit trees, all types of currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle.
This is especially important for old trees, since some branches have not bear fruit for a long time and interfere with the development of young ones.
Try to prune wisely, although it is very difficult to give any exact recommendations on what needs to be cut and what to leave.
The basic principle for this operation is this: we cut off all the branches that look inside the crown, towards the trunk or down, since they simply interfere with each other and shade themselves. Of course, leave the branches that grow outward and the first-year branches (their yield is greater).
In this way we will stimulate the tree to grow wider. When removing side branches, we leave an oblique “stump” several millimeters high. Also, which is very important, we will carry out sanitary and health-improving pruning. We will decisively cut out diseased shoots and shoots damaged by pests, since they certainly contain larvae and pathogenic microbes, which can subsequently spread to healthy branches.
On humid days, the bark of old trees becomes wet and can be easily removed with scrapers or thick iron brushes. Then we will close up all the hollows and wounds. We also remove the trapping belts that need to be burned, carefully examine the bark of the trees under these belts and destroy the pupated larvae of pests.
On young non-fruit-bearing seedlings, be sure to pinch the tops of all annual shoots, which will speed up the ripening of young wood and will help increase its frost resistance.
Pruning berry bushes will help renew them and increase the yield of berries in the coming season. Remove dead and old branches, as well as shoots that thicken the crown or are tilted too low to the ground.
Tie the bushes with soft twine, feed them, add compost and carefully hill them up. Cut shoots can be used for cuttings. We plant lignified cuttings directly into the ground in order to obtain normal young plants by the end of the next season.
Perform moisture-charging irrigation
At the beginning of autumn, special attention should be paid to watering all plants in the garden. Abundant moisture-recharging watering will ensure the outflow of nutrients into the root system, and this, in turn, will contribute to the successful wintering of plants, as well as their intensive growth and development in the next season. This type of watering is especially important at the end of a dry summer.
To carry it out, dig grooves along the projection of the tree crown, lay down the hose and turn on the water. You can determine the degree of moisture in the old-fashioned way: in the space between the rows, away from the watering point, dig a hole 40-50 cm deep, take a handful of earth from its bottom and squeeze it in your hand. If the earth still requires moisture, it will crumble after compression, and if not, it will retain the shape of a coma.
It would be good to combine watering with the application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which can be dissolved in water or sprinkled around the plants on moist soil.
Caring for strawberries
Strawberries planted in the second half of August must be carefully examined to see what condition they are in.
After all, planted plants are often pulled into the ground, especially if immediately after preparation the area is occupied for planting and the soil does not have time to settle and compact.
If, when examining the seedlings, you see that only leaves stick out on the surface, and the hearts are not visible, then you urgently need to carefully pull them up. And after the strawberry heart is at soil level, compact the soil around the bush well with your hands.
On a fruit-bearing plantation, we plant bushes in places where old ones died. We must remove weeds and tendrils as they appear.
In dry autumn, do not forget to water your strawberries.
Let's take care of raspberries
In September, immediately after harvesting the last berry harvest, we prune the raspberries. We cut out at the very base all fruit-bearing shoots, as well as weak, diseased young shoots.
After pruning, you can already tie the raspberry stems into bunches and bend them to the ground. You should not be late with this work, since later the stems will lose their flexibility and, when they are bent, microcracks will form in the stems, and sometimes they will even break. So don't put this work off until later.
If the autumn is dry, then do not forget to water the raspberries. This is necessary for laying next year's harvest.
I remind you of this because some inexperienced gardeners, having harvested their harvest, conveniently forget about raspberries, and then complain that their variety is degenerating and does not produce such abundant harvests as before.
Rejuvenating the garden
September is also an ideal month for planting young fruit trees and berry bushes.
If you are going to plant young seedlings of fruit trees, then it is important to prepare planting holes in advance, about 2-3 weeks in advance.
And from the end of September you can start planting and replanting trees. This time is good for planting because the plants have already accumulated a supply of nutrients for the winter, the young skin has become stronger, the buds and shoots have matured, and a dormant period begins in the garden before the leaves fall.
And here root system is still awake: this means that the wounds that inevitably form on the roots during transplantation will have time to heal before the soil freezes.
Let's start planting berries. If the seedlings are from your site, then before digging they need to be watered well, and then carefully removed with a lump of earth. We first immerse purchased seedlings in water for about 5-6 hours. After this, we cut off all the diseased and damaged roots and dip them in a clay mash.
We plant blackcurrant seedlings obliquely and deepen them to 10-15 cm. Leave the pruning until spring - they will overwinter better. We plant gooseberries without tilting.
Since we planted the currants a little deeper than they grew previously, more and more shoots will appear from under the ground every year. We leave an additional three strong shoots each year and cut out the others. And so that young branches branch better, we shorten them.
Then, when a growth longer than 15-20 cm appears from the buds on a shortened branch, we pinch its tops so that the branches continue to branch.
Thus, in the fourth year after planting, the bush will reach full productive capacity.
After planting, water the seedlings generously, and when the water is absorbed, sprinkle the hole with dry soil, humus or peat.
Grape
It feels good when you take it off the vine. bountiful harvest grapes In order to preserve it as long as possible, we carefully cut off the clusters with 8-10 cm pieces of vine in warm, dry weather.
It is advisable not to touch the berries so as not to erase the waxy coating from them. Then we put them in one layer with the ridges up in boxes, laying them down with paper and put them in a dry basement, where the temperature is constant 5-7 0.
The vine should be removed from the trellis after the first frost, before cutting off immature shoots and removing all remaining leaves.
Then we lay it on the ground, since now the vine is still flexible and can be easily twisted and laid. And if it gets caught in the frost, it will become brittle and it will be much more difficult to lay it down.
Autumn lawn care
If you think that with summer your worries about a green lawn are over, then this is not at all true. Now that the heat has subsided, it’s time to start “repairing” the old lawn or laying a new one.
Remember that sowing seeds should be carried out in fertile, well-prepared soil, observing generally accepted norms (3-5 kg of seeds per 100 m2) and ensuring soil moisture from the moment of sowing to the first mowing.
This is very important, since even short-term drying out of the soil can lead to damage and sometimes even complete death of the tender seedlings of silky lawn grasses.
In autumn, the frequency of lawn mowing is reduced to once every 10-14 days. Signal for cutting - reaching the grass stand optimal height(8-12 cm).
The last cutting is carried out in September so that the height of the grass cover, which has gone away before winter, is at least 10 cm.
Garden work in September there are many and it’s simply impossible to describe everything, so I’m ending the article here, since I also need to write about the works and. There is also a lot of hassle there, because September is a very important month.
See you soon, dear readers!
To print
Kristina Mozgo 09/1/2015 | 6752
The main concern of gardeners in the first autumn month is harvesting. But that's not all. Before the cold weather sets in, be sure to complete several important steps so that next year your garden will enjoy a good harvest.
A lot of articles have been written about this. I won't say it again truisms and list everything that is supposed to be done in September. From my experience, I can say that those who visit the dacha only on short visits simply do not have time to redo everything that is recommended in smart books in 8 days off.
I offer you my own plan for important September work, which, in my opinion, every self-respecting gardener is simply obliged to perform annually.
Point 1. Tidy up the strawberry bed
If you want to enjoy delicious berries next year, be sure to pay attention garden strawberries(strawberries). For bushes that have been affected by disease (or just look bad), trim off the leaves. If you do this right now, the plants will have time to get stronger and increase green mass before the cold weather.
And if you are not going to propagate strawberries with tendrils, then trim them so as not to weaken the plants. Moreover, cut not at the ground itself, but at a distance of 8-10 cm from the roots. Then carefully dig up the rows and apply organic fertilizers (2-4 kg of humus or compost or 100 g of ash per 1 sq.m.).
Well, if your strawberry bed is almost as old as you are, you don’t have to do any of this - it still won’t help. Just have the courage and finally dig up all the old plants that produce very tasty, but very small berries.
Point 2. Water and feed trees and bushes
Yes Yes. Despite the fact that the majority garden crops have already borne fruit, they continue to actively develop and prepare for the next season. Right now they are laying flower buds for the future harvest. If the weather outside is clear, dry, be sure to water the plants. Moreover, water without sparing, spending at least 40 liters of water on each of them.
But with fertilizing everything is a little more complicated than with watering. Do not touch autumn varieties of apple and pear trees, as well as other plants that ripen in September. They are fed after harvesting. Now you should deal with currants, gooseberries, raspberries, cherries, sweet cherries, plums and cherry plums.
red currant And gooseberry feed with phosphorus-potassium (1 tbsp. superphosphate and potassium sulfate per 1 sq.m of tree trunk circle) and organic fertilizers(15-20 kg of rotted manure or compost per 1 sq.m.). For black currant increase the dose of superphosphate by 2 times (2 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate per 1 sq.m.).
Summer raspberries feed at the rate of 60 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium chloride (or 80 g of potassium magnesia) per bush.
Young cherries And cherries feed at the rate of 100-150 g of potassium sulfate and 300-350 g of double superphosphate per tree. Adult plants require more fertilizer - 150 g of potassium sulfate, 500 g of superphosphate and 4 buckets of humus or compost.
Plum And cherry plum usually fed according to following diagram: per 1 sq.m of tree trunk in the fall, add 10 kg of manure or compost, 30 g of double superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate (or 200 g of ash).
By the way, do you know how to apply fertilizers correctly? After all, you can’t just scatter them on the surface of the soil and wait for the harvest to grow exponentially. Before you start fertilizing, trees and bushes must be watered (at least 1 bucket of water per young tree and a bush and at least 2 buckets - under mature tree). As soon as the water is absorbed, immediately spread the fertilizer evenly and carefully work it into the soil with a rake. Well, if it has recently rained or the ground is wet, you can simply sprinkle fertilizer and level the soil surface with a rake.
Point 3. Carry out sanitary pruning of the garden
It is not recommended to prune trees and bushes before winter. But it is very necessary to cut out all broken and diseased branches, since they are a source of infection. For work, use only a sharp tool and make the correct cuts - wounds that are too deep, as well as stumps left behind, will take a long time to heal.
Point 4. Rake fallen leaves
It is imperative to carry out this step, especially under those trees and bushes that have suffered from diseases and pests. After all, pathogenic microorganisms accumulate in fallen leaves, as well as pupae and larvae of pests, which, if no measures are taken, will safely overwinter and continue their harmful existence next year.
Pests can also hide under loose bark. Therefore, do not be lazy and clean the trunks and skeletal branches of trees wire brush, having previously laid out plastic film under them.
As a “killer” agent, you can use a 4% urea solution (400 g per 10 liters of water). Spray it on bushes and trees, as well as the soil under them after leaf fall, to destroy pathogens and pests that have gone into the soil for the winter.
Point 5. Don’t forget to barbecue and invite friends to the dacha
This is my favorite point. And, by the way, it is as important as the four previous ones. After all, we must welcome autumn in good mood and in the company of loved ones. This is the only way to defeat the autumn blues.
Having selflessly immersed yourself in dacha chores, do not forget about rest. Take care of yourself and your family. I wish you good health and inspiration for further dacha accomplishments.