Suspended plasterboard ceiling - everything you need to know to do the work yourself. Do-it-yourself suspended plasterboard ceiling - it’s simple and easy How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself

Functionality and specifications make drywall this material the most popular among the rest of the variety of finishing methods offered by the modern construction market. GCR is especially often used in the design of ceiling surfaces. It not only levels ceilings, but also allows you to implement unique design tasks in the form of complex multi-level structures. Even a single-level suspended ceiling made of plasterboard will look impressive if complemented with original lighting.

Most of the tools used in installation can replace each other. Therefore, when making a list, you should focus on those that you have at home. To install a suspended ceiling you will need:

• pencil, construction or laser level, upholstery cord - for marking;
• hammer drill or hammer drill for making holes for dowels and screws;
• screwdriver and bits of different diameters;
• a hacksaw and a construction knife.

• profile;
• drywall;
• fasteners;
• metal screws, 6 mm dowels.

For execution finishing drywall needed:

• serpyanka mesh;
• sealing tape;
• primer;
• putty;
• roller or brush;
• spatula (large and medium);
• fine-grained sandpaper;
• acrylic or water-based paint.

For installation of the suspension system, two types of profiles are used:

• guides. Installed along the walls along a horizontal line outlining the perimeter of the room, they are the basis of the entire suspended structure;
• ceiling They are made in the shape of the letter “C” and consist of metal strips 3-4 meters long.

The strength and reliability of a suspended ceiling does not depend on the shape of the profiles. But when choosing elements, you need to pay attention that they are all from the same manufacturer.

If you decide to install suspended plasterboard ceilings in the bathroom, purchase material marked moisture-resistant. GKL sheets of this type have a characteristic green tint. Special additives allow the material not to lose its original qualities throughout its entire service life, despite high level humidity and sudden temperature changes.

When finishing the ceiling surface in the living room or bedroom, you can buy regular gypsum board gray with sheet thickness 8-10 mm. Take sheets of greater thickness for self-installation the design doesn't make sense. The thicker the material, the more difficult it is to work with.

Fastening elements are the parts on which the suspended ceiling will be held.

To ensure reliable fixation of structural elements you will need:

• straight hangers. Their number is determined taking into account the distance between adjacent elements (no more than 60 cm);
• crabs are used to connect parts at right angles. The number of crabs is equal to the number of compounds formed with their help;
• Extensions are used to build up the profile.

Dowels 8x10 cm act as elements for fastening the suspensions. For connecting two pieces of the profile, as well as fixing the frame to concrete floor galvanized screws 4.2x5.1 cm are used. GKL sheets are attached to self-tapping screws 25 mm long.

Before we begin installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, we mark the base of the future ceiling. To do this we find bottom corner indoors, we retreat downwards from it to the required distance. The minimum distance from the rough ceiling surface to the suspended structure must be at least 5 cm. You need to choose your distance taking into account the communications passing under the ceiling, which are supposed to be installed for lamps, which can be increased to 30 cm.

If the room is small, use a hydraulic level; in larger rooms, it is better to use a laser level for more accurate marking of lines. Once you find the dots in all four corners, connect them together with a horizontal line using upholstery cord.

The next step is marking for fastening the longitudinal profile. The elements should be located from each other at a distance that is a multiple of the width of the gypsum board. For example, plasterboard sheets are produced in a standard width of 120 cm. Thus, it is best to fasten the profiles at intervals of 60 cm from each other.

The distance between the suspensions on the ceiling is approximately 50 cm. At such intervals, marks are placed on the lines that were drawn to attach the longitudinal profile. The transverse profile is mounted in increments of 60 cm. Thus, the result is a cellular frame with rectangles of the correct shape and a side length of 50x60 cm.

Installation of a suspended structure frame - step-by-step instructions

The photo shows the frame of a suspended structure made from a profile

The frame for the gypsum board suspended ceiling is mounted in the following way:

• On the line outlining the perimeter of the room, we drill holes in increments of 40 cm for dowels. Using dowels, we attach the UD profile to the wall;
• We install hangers that will hold the longitudinal ceiling profile. We fix each suspension to the base base using two dowel nails;
• Before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling CD profile, we check the evenness of the structure using a nylon thread stretched under the base of the suspended ceiling. We adjust the height of the frame with hangers;
• We first fasten the longitudinal profiles in the supporting profile located along the perimeter, after which we sequentially fasten the strips in the hangers;
• We fix the transverse elements of the frame in increments of 60 cm. Their ends will be attached to the wall profile, and along the length - to the longitudinal profiles using special connectors (“crabs”).

Important! Longitudinal and transverse ceiling profiles and gypsum board sheets should not fit tightly into the guide profiles. A small gap left during installation of the structure will serve as ventilation system, ensuring free air circulation between the ceiling base and the suspension system.

How to properly lengthen a profile

Often, suspended plasterboard ceilings have to be installed in large areas, which results in situations where the length of the CD profile is not enough, so it has to be increased. The simplest method, which is used by most professional builders, is to lengthen the profile using special single-level connectors. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• insert the connector inside the profile;
• from the other end of the connector we insert the end of another profile strip;
• we check the quality of the connection for rigidity and, if everything is in order, bend the edges of the profile using pliers;
• Now we strengthen the connection with metal screws. To do this, screw screws from the end of the profile.

Video for clarity

In addition to this universal and most common method, there are other methods by which the ceiling profile is lengthened. For example:

• extension using a cutter. This is an expensive tool that is used by professionals. The advantage of using it is that there is no need to additionally strengthen the connections with self-tapping screws;
• rack profiles in plasterboard construction sometimes they are connected using self-tapping screws. This method is not the most reliable and is used only in extreme cases when it is impossible to find a suitable connector or solve the problem in another way.

Before you start final stage installation of a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard, gypsum board sheets need to be given time to adapt to climatic conditions premises. To do this, they are placed in a room in a horizontal position and left for several days.

When covering the ceiling, proceed as follows:

• cut a chamfer from the ends of the gypsum board sheet using a knife at an angle of 45° by 5 mm;
• Start attaching the first sheet from any corner in the room with self-tapping screws 15 cm along the edges and 20 cm in the middle. Step back from the edge, at least 1.5 cm, so as not to damage the end of the gypsum board;
• at the junction of two adjacent sheets, leave 2-3 mm of free space, the same gap must be left at the junction of the plasterboard and the wall;
• Please note that the head of each self-tapping screw must be recessed into the material by 1-2 mm. You will subsequently fill the recess with putty;
• Proceeding in the same way, cover the entire frame with plasterboard. It is better to fasten the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that they are offset relative to each other.

• UD profile. Standard length elements - 3-4 meters. To determine the required number of planks, divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one segment, round the resulting figure to a larger value;
• CD profile. IN in this case take into account the standard size of the gypsum board sheet: 1200x2500x12.5 mm, 1200x3000x12.5 mm or 1200x2500x9.5 mm and the direction in which the ceiling profile will be installed. The best option– installation in width. This method will result in much less material waste.

For one sheet of gypsum plasterboard you will need three profiles, which must be placed in increments of 60 cm from each other. If the room where you are installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling is long and the profile needs to be increased, add the missing segment length to your calculations;

• pendants. The first element is attached at a distance of 30 cm from the wall surface, the next - in increments of 60 cm. Therefore, for one profile 3 meters long, you need to purchase five hangers;
• crossbars are usually made from CD profile scraps and installed every 50 cm;
• single-level crab-type connectors are also attached every 50 cm between the suspensions. Thus, one profile 2.5 m long will require five crabs.

Knowing the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate the number of elements needed to install a suspended ceiling.

The profiles are fixed to the hangers with metal screws (also 2 pieces per hanger). To install one crab you will need 8 screws.

To calculate the number of sheets of drywall, you need to calculate the area of ​​the ceiling surface, dividing it by the same figure for one sheet.

Making a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands is only a small part finishing works. It is necessary to seal the seams and cracks on the new structure so that after painting the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even. It is at the junctions of the elements that unsightly gaps form, which can separate over time. To avoid such trouble, you need to quality work to strengthen them:

• dry sponge or paint brush clean the joints from dust;
• Apply a coat of primer to all connections deep penetration, covering a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Handle the ends of the sheets especially carefully;
• after the primer has dried, apply sickle tape to the joints;
• prepare a special solution for Knauf joints. Carefully apply the mixture to the joints and press with a spatula (until all voids are completely filled and the sickle mesh is closed);
• also seal the recesses from the screws with a small amount of compound;
• after drying, using fine-grained sandpaper, sand all putty areas, prime the entire suspended ceiling;
• if you are going to paint your structure, you need to carry out finishing putty ceiling with a thin layer of putty mixture, re-clean the surface after drying and prime it. Only after such manipulations can you safely proceed to coloring.

As you can see, installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing is to follow the sequence of steps, calculate and select materials correctly. Then the self-assembled structure will delight you with its appearance for a long time.

Video on topic

Finishing the ceiling in most cases is associated with many doubts. A wide range of materials and colors, diversity design solutions– all this does not in any way contribute to making it easy to choose something specific.

Why drywall?

Type of drywall (brand)	Application area	Leaf color	Marking color
Regular (gypsum plasterboard)	Finishing walls and ceilings; construction of non-load-bearing partitions	Grey	Blue
Moisture resistant (GKLV)	Finishing walls and ceilings of kitchens, bathrooms; construction of partitions in rooms with high humidity	Green	Blue
Fire resistant (GKLO)	Finishing of air ducts and communication shafts; finishing metal structures in civil buildings	Grey	Red
Moisture-resistant (GKLVO)	Finishing of structures to achieve the required degree of fire resistance in wet areas(kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, baths, saunas, etc.)	Green	Red

Among the diversity finishing materials Experts advise choosing drywall. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which, thanks to the latest developments found in Lately qualities such as moisture resistance and high temperatures. In this regard, drywall can be:

The popularity of the material is due to numerous advantages, including:

• no need for complex preparatory procedures - material processing is as simple as possible;
• low cost;
• ease of processing and installation;
• wide range of applications;
• low maintenance (you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth every few months).

But there are also disadvantages:

• lack of elasticity (in which plasterboard is inferior to PVC film);
• susceptibility to moisture (if the material is not moisture resistant);
• flammability (if not fire-resistant, respectively).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Stage 1. Drafting

To work you will need a project. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get ready-made diagram and required volumes Supplies. If you do everything the old fashioned way, you will have to spend much more time and effort.

Step 1. Using a special formula, the perimeter is determined. It looks like this (if the room dimensions are, for example, 5x4 m):

(5 + 4) x 2 = 18 m (P)

It turns out that the length of the guide profiles will be 18 m. Then the obtained data is displayed on graph paper.

Note! If the lengths of opposite walls are different (this happens quite often), then a larger figure is taken for calculations.

Step 2. After this you need to start calculating the frame profile. The work will use 6x2.7 cm profiles - they will be fixed in increments of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of slats, the width of the room (400 cm) must be divided by the pitch (60 cm). As a result of simple calculations, we get: 6.66 (the amount is rounded to 7.0).

The first and last slats are attached 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all the rest - according to the above step.

Note! The step of 60 cm was not chosen by chance. The fact is that standard width plasterboard sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.

The mounting locations for the slats are transferred to the project.

400/60 x 7 = 47 pieces.

The first and last suspension is attached 30 cm from the surface of the walls. The attachment points are indicated in the diagram by crosses. We also note that it is preferable to use spring suspensions, while straight ones are acceptable only in two cases:

• with a completely flat ceiling surface;
• with a structure height of more than 12 cm.

Step 4. After this, you need to determine the number of jumpers that will add rigidity to the structure.

((400/60) – 1) x 7 = 40 pieces.

Step 5. All that remains is to determine the required number of screws and plasterboard sheets. Given the known area of ​​the room (20 m²) and the sheet (3 m²), this is quite easy to do - you will need almost five sheets of material.

There shouldn’t be any difficulties with self-tapping screws either:

• “thirtieth” self-tapping screws will be used to fix the drywall (step length – 25 cm);
• 60x6 products will be used for walls (step length - 30 cm) and ceiling (60 cm);
• LN11 screws will be used for fittings: 4 pcs for crabs and profiles, 2 pcs for hangers and profiles.

You also need to note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the electrical wiring.

Stage 2. Preparing equipment and consumables

Of course, the list necessary tools Each master has his own, because in this matter a lot depends on dexterity and the ability to use them. But there are those without which it is unlikely that the work will be completed successfully:

Note! Depending on the characteristics of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, with clamps for joining profiles located on different heights(if there are large stones in the concrete that interfere with normal drilling), etc.

Stage 3. Guide frame

After preparing everything you need, you can start working.

Step 1. First, use a tape measure to determine the lowest corner of the room. It is marked with:

• 5 cm from the ceiling, if you do not plan to install built-in lighting fixtures;
• 9 cm, if planned.

Step 2. Using a level, mark the same height in the remaining corners. After this, several more marks are placed along each wall at the height of the first point; all marks are connected to each other with a pencil, using a stretched cord or a long ruler. Although there is another option - to mark these lines pointwise.

Step 3. A guide profile is attached to the walls. If joining seams are planned between the corners (and in large rooms this cannot be done without it), then the structure must be additionally strengthened to prevent the elements from “moving apart” under its weight. Anyone can do this dense material- tin, plastic or plywood - which must be placed over each seam and secured to the wall with strong dowels.

Note! A special sealing tape (“serpyanka”) is more suitable for this, but it is not sold in all hardware stores.

After this they strengthen corner joints profile.

Stage 4. Main ceiling profile

Step 1. As noted above, most often the plasterboard sheets have dimensions of 120 x 250 cm, which is why it is advisable to fasten the ceiling profiles in increments of 40 cm - this way each sheet will be fastened at the edges and twice in the middle.

The ceiling is marked parallel lines with a forty-centimeter step.

Step 2. Every 2.5 meters (that is, at the transverse joints) jumpers from the same profile are attached. Of course, if the sheet sizes are different, then the distance is determined individually. “crabs” are installed at the joints.

Step 3. Next, you need to determine the location of the hangers. The first of them is installed 25 cm from the wall surface, all subsequent ones - in increments of 50 cm. Anchors are used to attach the suspensions (ordinary dowels will not work, because they do not have threads, and the structure can be “pulled out” from the ceiling under the influence of gravity).

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are attached to the suspensions. You need to start from the corners of the room. That's it, the frame for the suspended ceiling is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation

If desired, the suspended ceiling can be insulated using a special fastening system, which is popularly called a “fungus”.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Stage 6. Installation of plasterboard sheets

First we need to understand a number of important nuances: drywall is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, and also to deformation. Therefore, the material must be stored exclusively in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of work, it must be moved to the room where the repairs are being carried out so that it can rest. This will allow you to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.

Further actions must be carried out according to the instructions.

Step 1. First, material for those places where less than a whole sheet is needed.

Step 2. The chamfer on the edge is removed using a mounting knife - this will ensure deeper penetration of the putty material into the cracks.

Step 3. Fastening the drywall begins from one of the corners, the first screw is placed 10 cm from the edge. The distance between the screws is 20 cm.

Note! The screw heads must be recessed. It is also important that the screws on “adjacent” sheets are not located opposite each other, but at random.

Step 4. The following sheets are installed. There remains a small gap around the perimeter (approximately 2 mm); the sheets are joined with a minimum shift of 1 cell. You need to make sure that each sheet is attached both in the center and at the edges.

Video - Installing a suspended ceiling

Stage 7. Final finishing of the ceiling

Particular attention is paid to seams, since the aesthetics of the future structure directly depends on the quality of their sealing.

Step 1. First, the seams are sealed with a primer - this will change the porous structure, it will become denser and, as a result, absorb the putty better. After this, you need to wait until the primer is completely absorbed and dry.

Step 2. Putty is applied to the screw heads and seams between the sheets. To do this, you need to use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and even edges.

It must be special, intended for seams (this point needs to be clarified in a hardware store or in the manufacturer’s instructions).

Step 3. When the seams are completely dry, they should be taped with seam tape. It is typical that the joints are sealed with an overlap. The tape is treated with putty, and all detected cracks are sealed at the same time.

Step 4. After drying the drywall with your own hands, do not forget about the means personal protection. Use goggles and a respirator - they will keep you healthy.

Operating rules

1. The quality of the ceiling largely depends on the moisture resistance of the plasterboard used. The average indoor humidity is 40-75%, as a result of which regular ventilation is desirable.
2. To increase the service life of the suspended ceiling, you should clean the surface on time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth (in the second case, you need to add a small amount of cleaning agent to the water).
3. Application abrasive materials Absolutely forbidden!
4. To ensure that the temperature inside the structure does not differ from the temperature in the room, the panels are removed immediately after installation. Next, a layer of vapor-tight material is laid (even if insulation was previously laid).
5. Pencil stains can be removed using a regular eraser.
6. The internal space of the structure must be ventilated, for which a gap of approximately 2 mm must be left around the perimeter.

As you can see, installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple, but only if you have the appropriate tools and detailed instructions.

With the help of drywall you can realize a variety of design ideas. Using built-in LED lights on the ceiling, performing several levels and complementing everything with side lighting - these are all the advantages of this type of design. It is possible to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, although this process is not entirely simple.

But, having carefully studied all the recommendations of specialists and applied them in practice, the work will progress much easier and simpler. For curved figures on a plasterboard ceiling, special patterns are needed to cut out the parts. In this case, you have to bend the sheets and create unusual profiles. All these processes are feasible.

By following the instructions, it is possible to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

Restrictions on the use of material

In order for the ceiling to be of high quality, it is necessary to purchase suitable plasterboard sheets. In a room where high humidity is not constantly present (bathrooms, kitchens, etc.), in principle, such material can be used. But, in other cases, plasterboard sheets must be moisture-resistant, with a vapor-proof coating. That's why paint material, used to cover sheets, must create a waterproof film.

The use of plasterboard sheets for ceilings is not recommended in rooms where there is no heating. In this case, condensation may form on the surface, and this leads to deformation of the material. It is also risky to install drywall in city apartments, as there is a risk of flooding, after which the ceiling may simply collapse.

If your upstairs neighbors have automatic system to shut off the water supply, then it is advisable to use this installation method.

In general, we can say that plasterboard ceilings are common in apartments. The main thing is that the height of the room allows this, since suspended structures significantly reduce this value. If the room has a height of less than 2 m 40 cm, then you should not make such a ceiling. This value may also decrease due to built-in lamps or other utilities. But, it is possible to use special lighting: You can use flat overheads, saving about 5 cm or only one chandelier.

Calculation of material and components of the ceiling

To do frame structure You must first complete a drawing for the ceiling. Mark all the dimensions of the room on it, which will help significantly reduce the cost of purchased Construction Materials. Calculate the number of profiles for the manufacture of the frame, fasteners, and drywall.

Also, a drawn diagram of the ceiling will help you decide on configurations and the correct calculation of everything needed for installation.

Necessary materials for construction

Before you begin installing drywall on the ceiling, you need to calculate how much material is needed, taking into account its different sizes. This will allow you to make fewer pieces and trims and optimally place the material on the surface. Standard sizes sheets are as follows: thickness from 9.5 mm to 14 mm, and length from 120 to 250 mm.

When placing sheets of plasterboard on the ceiling, it is important to adhere to the following recommendation: do not match the seams and do not place them on the same line; they must be offset by at least 50 cm. This rule applies to both longitudinal and transverse connections. Docking should only be done on a metal profile, and the seam should be in the middle.

The sheet is secured to the CD profile with screws; they should be placed at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the drywall sheet.

The transverse seams must coincide with additional elements main profiles that serve as additional reinforcement of the frame. The step should be observed at intervals of 20 cm. Having found out the exact length of the structure and installed profiles (together with transverse ones), you can calculate the number of screws by multiplying it by 5.

Tools for work

Having everything necessary to complete the process speeds up the work and also ensures high-quality installation and further finishing of the ceiling. What you need to have:

• assembly scissors for metal;
• grinder for working with metal profiles during the construction of the frame;
• a fine-toothed hacksaw blade or a special tool for cutting sheets of drywall;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• sandpaper or grater to smooth the end of the cut parts;
• special needle roller for perforation;
• yardstick;
• construction square;
• laser level, and in its absence, painted thread for marking the line;
• water level at least 2 m 50 cm long;
• long rule;
• serpyanka for processing seams;
• masking tape.

Ceiling markings

This process is very responsible, since it depends on appearance the surface to be installed and the strength of the structure itself. Without following all the rules, a plasterboard ceiling may not be of high quality and will not last long. Rules quality installation is to inspect the surface before starting the work process for height differences.

A level that needs to be used to set the lowest point on the wall will help you do this.

Proceed with ceiling marking, which includes the following processes:

1. Set a line where the initial profile will be located. In this case, it is worth considering the height if there is an intention to hide it under the structure electric wires or lighting fixtures. This can be a distance from 7 to 15 cm.
2. Make a mark on a nearby wall with a marker or pencil.
3. Next, similar lines are marked on other walls using a water level.
4. After this, all lines should be connected into one continuous line. If all the markings are made correctly, the straight line will coincide.

Then you need to make markings where the supporting guides for the suspended ceiling will be located:

1. Draw a line along the ceiling parallel to each other at a distance of 1250 mm (this is half a plasterboard sheet).
2. These lines are a guide for placing hangers on special metal anchors (wedges or dowels).
3. The installed profiles should run both along the edges of the sheet and in the middle. When marking is carried out, this fact must be taken into account.

The first stage of installation of the ceiling frame

Purchase a narrow metal profile UD-27 and attach it around the entire perimeter of the room. It will serve as guide profiles and hold the CD strips that will be inserted into it.

Also needed for strong fastening of the dowel profile are 5 cm long if the surface is made of heavy material, and also 9 cm if there is a porous surface. The interval for placing fasteners is 35 – 40 cm.

You need to hide everything behind a suspended ceiling engineering Communication. Then check its performance and reliability under load.

From metal profiles CD-6/27 3 m or 4 m long, a suspended lathing is created. When installing, an interval of 60 cm is maintained between them, and the length should be a couple of centimeters less than the room to ensure thermal expansion. First, the first profile is mounted on the ceiling close to the wall, and it is inserted along the length into the UD. They are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Transverse inserts are made from the same material to make the structure more rigid. The distance between these profiles is also maintained at 60 cm; they are fastened using self-tapping screws. This way the drywall sheets will hold more firmly.

Second stage of installation

To avoid problems with the suspensions, it is important to check how much overlap is inside. If it is hollow, then you should use dowels of a larger diameter (12 mm) and fasten them with thick screws. In the presence of wooden surface Fasteners with a length of at least 60 mm must be used.

CD profiles are suspended on perforated hangers. They have different sizes and you need to choose the one that suits you best best option for each individual case. The remaining excess length should be folded. They are placed at intervals of 1 m, mounted on dowels in the ceiling. Fasteners must be 6 mm in diameter and 50 mm long, 2 pcs per hanger.

The connecting parts between the longitudinal profiles and cross members are elements called “crabs”. They perfectly fix intersecting profiles at the same level. Self-tapping screws for fastening CD profiles together with hangers have a length of 10 mm. Their number must be calculated in this way: for each suspension you need 2 pieces, and add 4 more pieces. for each cross member.

In order for the plasterboard ceiling to be even between the profiles, it is best to stretch a cord or fishing line in an amount of 3 to 5 pieces, depending on the size of the room. It is for them that you need to set the CD profile. Secure the cords with screws, attaching them to the end of the UD strip. Place small washers 1 or 2 mm high under them. This is necessary to create a gap between the fishing line and the profile.

Once secured, the CD profile should not touch the cord.

Material cutting and installation

To properly cut a sheet for a plasterboard ceiling you must have:

• long rail;
• marker or pencil;
• sharp knife;
• roulette

It’s not difficult to complete this process; the main thing is to do everything step by step:

1. Draw a line on the sheet and cut the cardboard layer with a knife strictly along it.
2. Break the material along the line and then cut the cardboard from reverse side leaf.
3. Sand the unevenness at the end with sandpaper.
4. It turns out two sheets of plasterboard with smooth edges.

When joining sheets, remove a 1 cm wide chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees.

If you need to make a cut from the edge, you must first put a mark on the cardboard and, using a jigsaw or hacksaw, make a cut in several places in the direction from the edge. Break a piece of drywall and cut the paper from the outside. When making a hole inside a sheet, you need to make a cut on three sides, and then break off the remaining part or saw through all four sides.

Place prepared pieces of a certain size onto the finished ceiling frame, so that one edge is pressed tightly against the wall. They are fixed to the profiles with self-tapping screws. They need to be screwed in so that the cap goes in a little and does not stick out. The interval between fasteners should be 20-25 cm. Continue this process until the entire ceiling is sewn up.

Puttying the drywall surface

Completing the installation of drywall on the profiles is not the last step in this work. After this, the sheets installed on the ceiling must be primed, puttied and painted. First, you need to fill the joints between the pieces of drywall with a special putty so that the ceiling becomes monolithic and smooth. Painting mesh or serpyanka is used at the joints so that cracks do not appear in this place later. First, the seam is filled 60% with putty, then the serpyanka is laid and covered again with the finished mixture. The mesh should be inside; this is the only way it will hold the solution tightly and prevent cracks.

The areas where the screws are located are also closed in order to veil the resulting holes. To do this, use a small spatula with putty to move it in different directions to hide the indentations. After all, if you don’t do this after applying the first layer of the mixture, it will retract as it dries and you’ll end up with a hole.

After drying, the putty areas must be sanded using a trowel mesh or fine-grained sandpaper.

Apply a layer of primer to a flat, dry surface and allow time to dry. Then cover the entire ceiling in several layers with putty mixture. Allow time for complete drying each time to ensure the surface is smooth and beautiful. Carefully inspect the entire ceiling for any sagging or unevenness. If any defects are found, the ceiling must be cleaned so that it is perfectly smooth and without flaws. Now you can paint.

When installing the ceiling, you should pay attention to the following important points:

• the room temperature during operation should not be lower than +15 degrees;
• the purchased sheets must be brought indoors and let them lie in a horizontal position for some time to acclimatize;
• fasten the screws strictly at 90 degrees and deepen them a few millimeters so that they do not protrude on the surface of the ceiling.

In this article we will try to explain in detail how cladding is performed. Having carefully familiarized yourself with this material, you can easily assemble any structure from plasterboard slabs.

Introduction

First, you need to find out what elements the pendant consists of. Like any building construction, plasterboard ceiling consists of a base - a frame and a cladding (or filler) - a plasterboard gypsum board.

The frame is made of galvanized profile different sizes and sections. The design is very light and practically does not exert any special pressure on the floor slabs.

Below is a list of components and materials for a suspended plasterboard ceiling:

• Plasterboard ceiling sheets
• Wall guide profile UD-27
• Ceiling bearing profile CD-60
• Straight U-shaped suspension
• Connector for cross-shaped profile (crab)
• Straight profile connector
• Plastic dowels and self-tapping screws (recommended quick installation 6 x 40 mm)
• Self-tapping screws for metal with a 12 mm drill (seeds)
• Black 25 mm self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to the frame

Thickness 9.5 mm. They are lightweight and simplify the process of assembling the entire ceiling structure. To putty the ceiling you will need the following materials:

• Self-adhesive mesh (serpyanka) for gypsum board joints 50 mm wide
• Primer (any liquid will do)
• Finishing gypsum putty
• Putty for joints (you can use Fugenfüller or something similar)
• Grinding mesh
• Fine-grained sandpaper (zero)

Undoubtedly, the question naturally arises of how to accurately calculate the quantity of each structural element and finishing materials. To do this, use the method presented below.

Calculation of materials for plasterboard ceilings

There are simple rules for calculating materials:

The quantity of the UD-27 profile guide is equal to the perimeter of the room (add the length of all 4 walls)

The supporting profile is mounted on plasterboard in the following order: the first and last at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the distance between the remaining profiles is 600 mm (possibly less). The remaining profiles are attached to the ceiling at intervals of 600 mm. The number of TsD-60 profile is equal to the number of rows multiplied by the length of the room

The TsD-60 bearing profile is suspended on U-shaped hangers with a pitch of 1 m. Between the supporting profiles, jumpers from the TsD-60 profile are installed in increments of 0.6 m. A cross-shaped connector (crab) is used for connection.

The number of plasterboard boards is equal to the area (to do this, you need to multiply the width of the room by its length). When calculating, add 5% to the resulting figure. This is necessary to compensate for material consumption when trimming

It is important to know! To make accurate calculations, it is recommended to draw a floor plan (top view). Mark on it all the dimensions (length, width, level of the future ceiling), the axes of the location of the supporting profiles, the attachment points of the U-shaped suspensions, the location of the crabs and lintels.

To finish a plasterboard ceiling, gypsum putties and deep penetration primers are used. It is important to know! To ensure that cracks do not appear at the joints of gypsum board slabs, the joints are reinforced with self-adhesive fiberglass mesh and puttyed with a special putty for joints.

Consumption of gypsum putty from different manufacturers approximately the same. It is 0.46 kg per 1 square meter of ceiling with a layer thickness of 1 mm. A primer is pre-primed. Liquid primer consumption is about 200 - 300 grams per 1 sq.m.

Expensive tools can be rented at a specialized construction tools store. Every home craftsman will probably have everything else.

Before hemming the ceiling with plasterboard using water or laser level Mark a horizontal plane on the walls. Minimum height, on which the ceiling is hemmed with 3 cm plasterboard. If built-in spotlights are used, then the ceiling level is lowered by 10 or 12 cm depending on the size of the lighting fixture.

If only a chandelier is used, then the plasterboard ceiling frame can be lowered to the thickness of the CD-60 ceiling support profile. At the place of its attachment, a mortgage is mounted to the existing ceiling plywood part 40 x 40 cm and 10 mm thick.

The marks on the walls along the perimeter are connected using painting and dyeing thread. On the ceiling, axes are also marked for attaching direct hangers and load-bearing profiles.

Installation of the guide profile

Along the marked line along the perimeter in increments of 35 - 40 cm, the UD-27 guide profile is fastened using dowel-nails for quick installation. This operation is performed using a concrete drill bit with a diameter of 6 mm and a hammer.

Direct hangers are attached along the lines on the ceiling with a pitch of 600 mm using dowels and self-tapping screws. Their perforated ends are lowered at an angle of 90 degrees.

The profile has a length of 3 or 4 m, so if necessary, they are joined using a straight connector. Sometimes it is made from the same supporting profile.

The profile is attached to the U-hanger mustache with galvanized 12 mm self-tapping screws, two on each side. This is done with a screwdriver.

Installation of crabs and fastening of crossbars

Crabs are attached to the supporting profiles at 600 mm intervals. Between the parallel profiles, jumpers are mounted to the crabs. For this purpose, sections from the same supporting profile are used. They are connected between the crabs and the guide profiles with 12 mm self-tapping screws.

Today we will show you how to install a simple single-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. It is also often called differently suspended ceiling. We will consider in detail the advantages and disadvantages of drywall, what is needed for its installation, marking the ceiling, the procedure for installing the frame and its cladding, how and how to seal the joints of plasterboard sheets, and also how to avoid the appearance of cracks. Go!

Pros and cons of plasterboard as a material for finishing the ceiling before plastering

Main advantages of the material:

• Drywall allows you to level surfaces of any curvature, while the maximum layer of plaster on ceilings cannot exceed 15 mm;
• Civil Code allows you to easily hide (or at least disguise) existing communications and structures: wires, pipes, beams;
• A plasterboard ceiling allows you to realize almost any of your fantasies in terms of lighting arrangement;
• Design: countless shapes, two, three levels, niches for lighting;
• Relative lightness of construction;
• Possibility of using heat and sound insulation;
• No “wet” processes during installation - no need to wait several days for the surface to dry.

Disadvantages of drywall:

• A serious reduction in the height of the room (depending on the curvature of the original ceiling and the possible need to install recessed lamps) by at least 5 cm;
• The relative complexity of installation and the need for tools such as a hammer drill and a screwdriver (read how to choose a screwdriver);
• The potential for cracks to appear at the joints of sheets in the future (we will look at how to avoid this);
• Need a partner's help.

Knowing all the pros and cons of drywall, it is impossible to definitely recommend it or not recommend it. Everything follows from the analysis of a specific room, but in most cases, its use is still preferable.

In this article we will look at the most common installation method. suspended ceiling with your own hands - in one level on direct hangers.

Tools and accessories

Necessary accessories for installing a plasterboard ceiling:

1. Guide profiles PN 28×27 mm.
2. Ceiling profiles PP 60×27 mm.
3. Sealing tape.
4. Anchor wedges.
5. “Dowel-nails” (ordinary dowels and screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than the heads of the screws - 8 mm, and there is more fuss with them).
6. Cord release device.
7. Hydro level / laser plane builder.
8. Bubble building level 2 m.
9. Aluminum rule 2.5 m.
10. Drywall sheets.
11. Putty for joints GK (Uniflot).
12. Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka).
13. Roulette.
14. Hammer.
15. A stationery knife (or a special knife for cutting HA).
16. Hammer + drill.
17. Screwdriver.
18. Self-tapping screws for metal 25–35 mm (black, frequent pitch).
19. Self-tapping screws with press washer.
20. Acrylic primer.
21. Single-level connectors CRAB.
22. Metal scissors.
23. Heat and sound insulation materials (if required).
24. Profile extensions (if required).
25. Set of spatulas (narrow, wide and for corners).

In the picture, all accessories are in order:

It should be noted right away that much of what is now sold in construction stores under the guise of profiles and hangers is just foil. We suggest choosing Knauf products - you can find out their profiles and sheets by the corresponding stamp.

A few words about the hydraulic level. It consists of two small flasks with water connected to each other by a thin tube. The principle of its operation is based on the law of physics about communicating vessels, which makes horizontal marking with its help extremely accurate. When installing a ceiling, you can’t do without it (unless, of course, you have a laser level), because marking the entire perimeter of the room with a bubble level is not a quick or easy task.

With a hydraulic level, we will only need to mark the corners, and then connect them using a “breaker” (this is the simple name for a cord breaker). There are many types of drywall sheets. You and I only need to know two: regular and moisture-resistant. It is unnecessary to say anything additional about the first type, but the second is used in rooms with high humidity, that is, in kitchens and bathrooms due to reduced moisture absorption achieved through the use of hydrophobic additives in plaster. It is very simple to distinguish these two species from each other - by color. Regular drywall has a color plain cardboard- grey. Moisture-resistant sheets have a greenish color. For ceilings, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are most often used.

Now about the sealing tape. It is self-adhesive, made of porous polymer material, width - from 30 mm. Necessary for tight coupling of frame elements with load-bearing structures, it also improves the acoustic properties of our ceiling. In addition, it is believed that it plays a significant role in protecting against cracks, allowing the structure to expand/contract slightly.

Marking, fastening guides

First we need to determine the lowest corner of the room. We take a tape measure and measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling in each corner, it is advisable to do this in the center of the room, just in case - you never know, the ceiling might sag. We found the lowest angle, retreated 5 cm (if recessed lamps are not planned) or 8 cm (if planned), and put a mark. From this mark, using a hydraulic level, set the horizontal line to all other corners. Now all that remains is to connect the marks with a beat. Together with an assistant, pull the cord properly between the marks on one wall, pull free hand and release quickly. The cord, hitting the wall, will color it - here you have the finished horizontal line. We do the same on all walls. This is what we get:

It's time to fix the guide profiles on the walls. To do this, first attach one of them to the wall along the line and mark future holes with a marker along the finished holes (if the holes on the profile are located far from the edge, you need to make additional ones with a puncher, stepping back from the edges by 5-10 cm), then set it aside for a while. We drill holes in the marked places. We take the profile again and glue the sealing tape onto it, after which we again apply it to the line and fix it to the wall with dowel nails. There must be at least three attachment points per profile. Here's what you get in the end:

Next, you should mark the axes of the main profiles. But first, let's decide what profiles to call. The main ones will be those profiles that are attached to the base with hangers, and the load-bearing profiles will be those that are attached only to the main ones. It is more logical to place the main profiles across (this makes it less likely that they will have to be built up). The width of the sheet is 1.2 m, the pitch of the profiles should be smaller by an integer number of times. Usually this is 40 cm. Mark:

Important: mark their position (both main and load-bearing) not only on the ceiling, but also on the wall below the horizontal line.

Bearings (with such a pitch of the main ones) are needed only at the transverse joints of the gypsum boards, that is, their “step” is 2.5 m, which means that the pitch of the hangers should be smaller by an integer number of times. 50 cm suits us, but the first row of hangers will be spaced from the wall not by 50, but by 50/2 = 25 cm, the next row by 25 + 50 = 75 cm, etc.

To mark, take the suspension, apply it to the ceiling at the required points and mark with a marker the places for the holes for the anchor wedges. For one suspension you need at least two of them.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a suspended ceiling frame with your own hands

We wait for the dust to settle, fill the pockets with anchor wedges and attach the hangers. Don't forget to stick sealing tape on them first. After securing the suspension, carefully pull its ends down; when subsequently attaching the main profiles, they should not bend.

Now let's start installing the main profiles. If the width of the room is less than 3 meters, we simply cut them to the length of the room minus 1 cm and insert them into the guides. If the room is larger, we lengthen each profile so that the resulting profile is again 1 cm shorter than the room. Moreover, the connections of neighboring ones should not be on the same line! And there should be a suspension near the extension cord. You need to start attaching profiles to the hangers from the corners of the room. Your assistant will need to apply the rule to the guides on the walls forming the corner, using a grip as wide as possible so that the rule does not bend (this is very important!). Thus, it will support our PP, and it will be level with the guides. Your task is at this moment to secure it to the suspension on both sides with four (2 per side) self-tapping screws. It is better to take self-tapping screws with a press washer without a drill. It will take you longer to do, but everything will come out very strong. So, we fastened it near one corner, and we also fasten it near the second. If it is not possible to secure the middle of the profile in this way, you should simply apply a rule from below along it, then we will secure it without any problems. We bend the excess length of the hangers upwards (or pre-cut them, as in the pictures). We control the process with a two-meter level.

Using the same method, we hang the second profile, relying only on the guides for now. Then we move to the opposite wall and install 2 more main PPs. If there are more between these four, we set them up, relying on the ones already fixed. But if the room is very large, we continue to go from the edges to the middle and, as soon as possible, we use the already fixed profiles to display the rest.

You can pull the cord and align it, but the cords tend to sag, and in this case it is much more difficult to hold the profile when vibrating from the screwdriver. Let's look at our result:

Now we hang the CRABs on the places where the profiles will be joined, and fix them with four self-tapping screws, two on each side. If you lower the ceiling slightly, keep in mind that then you will have to insert the CRABs into the main PP BEFORE installing them. In general, make sure the connectors go over the profiles.

As soon as all the CRABs are in place, we cut the supporting profiles (remember the 1 cm margin) and insert them into them, securing them with four screws, each. Please note that we do NOT attach the carrier to the guide below with a self-tapping screw, but simply insert it. They will be held together when we sew on the sheets. If it is necessary to soundproof the ceiling, they usually use mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles more sizes frame cells and simply pushes into them, additionally clinging to the curved suspensions. That is, roughly speaking, it hangs on a frame. When working with it, use gloves and a respirator - it is extremely unpleasant, but you will be surprised how well it absorbs sound. It will be useful to study the article about soundproofing an apartment with your own hands.

Video: Suspended ceiling made of KNAUF sheets

Installing drywall on the frame

Important: before starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, they must undergo acclimatization in the room - a couple of days, at least. In addition, storage of civil ledger sheets is allowed only in a horizontal position.

Before installation, it is necessary to process the edges of the sheets - use a knife to chamfer them at an angle of 22.5 degrees. to a depth of 2/3 of the sheet thickness (of course, approximately); this applies to the end edges that are not covered with cardboard. The sheets should be fastened from the corner, the recommended pitch of the screws is 17 cm, on adjacent sheets the screws must be screwed apart. We try to maintain a distance of 10 mm from the factory edge of the sheet and 15 mm from the one we cut. The heads should be slightly recessed, but not pierce the cardboard, check by touch. It is very important to sew the sheets apart, at least by the pitch of the main profiles (40.2 cm), and leave a small gap between them (2 mm), by the way, between the sheets and the walls - too . If the self-tapping screw stubbornly does not pierce the frame, throw it away and screw in another one, moving 5 cm away from the hole.

We also attach it to the guide profile. Surely there will be people who believe that this should not be done - they say, so says Knauf technology, for this it was necessary to insert the supporting profiles close to the guides. Indeed, in the materials of this company there is a drawing where there are no screws through the guide profile.

Therefore, for the purity of the experiment, let’s turn to the Giprok materials, and there we see the following:

The self-tapping screw is in place! But here the other one is missing - the one that should be in the supporting profile! But with Knauf it’s the other way around!

So, we attach the sheets to the PN. Another important detail. Do not allow sheet joints near the outer corner:

This rule also works in the case multi-level ceilings in the absence of a wall:

The joint must be at least 10 cm away from the corner. Violation of this rule threatens an almost inevitable crack.

Let's summarize what we have done so far. Here is the plan for the main ceiling of our virtual room:

Now we know all the technology for installing a plasterboard ceiling and can calculate how much material we actually need. According to the drawing, we used: 99 hangers, 8 HA sheets, at least 19 ceiling profiles, 8 guides, at least 24 CRABs.

Sealing seams

Before sealing the seams, they must be primed and wait until the primer is completely dry. When sealing, special, especially strong putties are used. Mix a little, following the instructions on the bag. We fill in all the seams with the first layer: both “ours” and the factory ones (first we fill in the space between the sheet and the wall, then we apply a layer), as well as the recesses from the self-tapping screws. For factory ones you will need a wide spatula. You should especially carefully fill the factory seams near the walls; now the main thing is that the putty does not stick out.

We are waiting for the putty to set, and this will happen in a matter of minutes (in the case of Uniflot). For high-quality reinforcement of joints, a special paper tape Knauf Fugendeckstreifen Kurt. At the factory edges, the tape is laid in a layer of Uniflot, after which it is covered with it. You can also use Uniflot on cut edges, or you can glue the tape on PVA so that it doesn’t stick out so much. If you are gluing on Uniflot, first moisten the tape in water, otherwise it may happen that you will not be able to remove a certain amount of putty from under the tape, and you will develop a bump. And if the tape is wet, the putty will glide over it well. We recommend using a special spatula on the corners - everything will work out faster and better with it. The Kurt tape has a fold line in the center, especially for ease of gluing on internal corners. On seams with cut edges, the tape will give small protrusions, but that’s okay - this can be corrected by subsequent puttying of the entire surface.

Ready. We have a surface ready for subsequent puttying. We have minimized the possibility of cracks appearing on the plasterboard ceiling, but to completely eliminate this possibility we use. It is glued to the entire area, which has already been previously plastered, puttyed again and painted. Yes, it takes a lot of time and effort, yes, the price is high. But the ceiling is guaranteed not to crack.

That's basically it. Now we can make a plasterboard ceiling at home with our own hands.