Pelargonium zonal cultivation. What is zonal geranium and what are the rules for care at home? Diseases and pests of pelargonium

Everyone knows pelargonium. A regular on window sills, she delights with flowering early spring until late autumn. When keeping zonal pelargoniums at home, you must remember that they come from South Africa and they will not bloom fully in the shade. Maintenance is minimal: you need an optimal amount of land, sunlight and timely watering.

First of all, I would like to warn against purchasing rosebud, tulip, carnation and other types of varietal pelargoniums offered by the Chinese market or unscrupulous sellers. Varietal characteristics of pelargoniums are not transmitted during seed propagation; this is a huge selection work and is possible if special conditions are created.

Caring for zonal pelargonium

The most important thing when caring for pets– to achieve their lush, bright, abundant and long-lasting flowering. Therefore, in order to get a beautiful flowering plant, a number of conditions must be met.

1. Choose an initially healthy and strong plant.
2. Choose a small pot for pelargonium. It is recommended to replant an adult specimen every 1-2 years, and possibly earlier depending on the condition of the root system (change the top layer of soil by adding fresh).
3. Provide the flower with good natural light or artificial lighting at least 6 hours a day. Pelargonium feels good on southern, western and eastern windows.
4. Water and feed pelargonium in a timely manner with increasing daylight hours.
5. Ventilate the room where you grow pelargonium; it requires access to fresh air.

Pinching pelargonium

To get a charming flowering bush of zonal pelargonium, in spring and summer you must pinch out the main stems. You don’t want to end up with a long, elongated stick with a couple of flowers covering the entire window, do you? Pinch your pet, and it will shoot out many lateral shoots, from which not 1-2 flowers can bloom, but at least 5.

Fertilizer for pelargonium

Fertilizer for flowering plants will help pelargonium absorb substances to form beautiful and juicy buds. The main rule when adding fertilizers is to thoroughly moisten the soil in the pot. Dry soil is not suitable for application nutrients, before that it needs to be watered clean water.

Fertilizers must be applied regularly, in parallel with increasing daylight hours, once every 2 weeks until the end of August. Then we take a break until spring. A newly transplanted or diseased plant cannot be watered with fertilizers, otherwise you risk losing it forever.

Pruning pelargonium

We remove fading inflorescences and yellowing leaves without regret throughout the life of the pelargonium. In the spring, with the appearance of the first bright rays, the stems are radically trimmed to rejuvenate pelargonium. However, please note that this technique is only suitable for zonal pelargoniums. Extremely unsuitable for “royal” pelargoniums.

Soil for pelargonium

You can use ready-made soil for pelargoniums or make it yourself. The soil for pelargonium can be prepared from ordinary garden soil with the obligatory addition of fine river sand. Drainage in the form of expanded clay or whatever is on hand is also desirable - broken brick or fine gravel is quite suitable.

Watering pelargonium

Watering is regular, but do not forget that pelargonium is a South African guest, and overwatering is detrimental to it. It also does not require spraying. In winter, pelargonium is kept on a cool windowsill with minimal watering.

Reproduction of zonal pelargonium

Pelargonium is propagated by seeds and vegetatively by cuttings and leaves. Pelargonium cuttings have become most widespread. This is a relatively simple and affordable way for gardeners to get a new plant of the desired variety. Through seeds, F1 hybrids can be grown in an annual crop. This method is suitable if you plan to plant pelargonium in the garden or use the plant for landscaping urban and park areas. Leaf propagation, due to its complexity and poor plant survival rate, is practically not used in amateur floriculture.

Propagation of pelargonium by cuttings

The best time for cuttings from zonal pelargoniums is spring and late summer. We select a strong stem without signs of woodiness, about 10-15 cm in size, cut at a right angle with sharp pruners (or whatever you have). The main thing in this process is to avoid the cut end of the stem from becoming terry.
Dry the cut a little and place it in water for rooting. We are waiting for the formation of a slight thickening of the end of the stem, the appearance of the so-called. callus - root primordia. This usually happens within 5-10 days. You can, of course, immediately plant the cuttings in the ground, bypassing the rooting phase in water, but this requires a certain skill and some luck with the selection of soil.

Then we plant it in a pre-prepared pot with a diameter of 5-7 cm. Drainage is required, watering as it dries out. During the period of intensive growth of the root system, pelargonium cannot be placed in bright sun. The development of roots will be indicated by the appearance of new leaves on the plant. Then you can transplant it into a larger pot.

Propagation of pelargonium by leaves

Leaf propagation is possible, but extremely difficult and requires extremely highly qualified specialists. Used for propagation of very rare and valuable varieties of pelargonium. Almost inapplicable for the average gardener.

Propagation of pelargonium by seeds

Propagation by seeds is the easiest and most affordable way plant a garden of zonal pelargoniums at home or in the garden. Nowadays there are a lot of different seeds on sale. different varieties pelargonium. Typically, these are hybrids that are used for one season. Their biggest drawback is the flowability of the petals of the flowers themselves, since they were created specifically for landscaping flower beds in street conditions, and their flowability is determined by the characteristics of the variety. Otherwise, they are extremely cute and unpretentious, they bloom very readily.

Growing pelargonium from seeds

The best time to sow pelargonium seeds is January. Can be planted in disposable transparent plastic cups with holes at the bottom - this makes it more convenient to observe the process of root formation. You can use soil special for geranium plants, for example, “Garden of Miracles for Geraniums.” Soil for cacti and succulents and any other soil with poor organic matter is also suitable.

Seeds germinate in 5-10 days at a temperature of 20°C. Seedlings cannot tolerate flooding and greenhouse effect. When germinating from seeds, additional lighting is desirable during the entire germination period for at least 6 hours daily.

Picking is required when two true leaves appear. After picking, when the fifth leaf appears, be sure to pinch the main stem, otherwise an elongated specimen with a thin stem is guaranteed. Next, when growing green mass, transfer it into a pot with a diameter of 5 to 12 cm, depending on the size of the root system.

To form a beautiful shape, you need to regularly turn the pots towards the light source and do not forget to pinch each emerging stem at the level of 2-3 pairs of leaves.

The period for the appearance of the first flowers during seed propagation of zonal pelargoniums is 6 months, so January seedlings will bloom no earlier than June. The best varieties for seed cultivation – hybrids of the F1 series.

Photos provided

There is a clear pattern in the cultivation of pelargoniums. annual cycle, which depends on temperature and illumination. Typically, the flowering time in our climate begins in the spring and can last for some varieties until late autumn, as long as there is enough light and warmth.

Lighting

When growing pelargoniums, you must remember that these are light-loving plants. Landed in open ground or taken outdoors for the summer, they tolerate direct sun well. The exception is royal pelargoniums, which are more picky about the effects of wind and rain, so it is preferable to grow them on terraces, balconies and window sills, in protected places. If pelargonium is located indoors (in a greenhouse, on a window), where light enters through glass, the plant may overheat, especially in conditions of poor ventilation. Then you will need protection from the scorching summer midday sun. Pelargonium will tolerate slight shading, but with a lack of light, the lower leaves will begin to turn yellow and die, the stem will become bare, and the plant will not bloom.

It is important to regularly, once every few days, turn the plant at a small angle relative to the light source; this is necessary for uniform growth of the crown.

Temperature

In summer, pelargonium prefers moderate heat, within +17+23 o C. Planting in open ground should be done only when the danger has passed return frosts. At a stable temperature of +12 o C and below, pelargonium stops blooming; flowering is also negatively affected by too much heat, especially indoors. Reddened leaves can indicate that the plant is cold.

In autumn, the temperature and abundance of watering are gradually reduced - growth should not be active so that pelargonium does not stretch out and become depleted in low light conditions.

Winter care

Optimal wintering conditions can be created on a glazed and frost-free, well-lit loggia or in a greenhouse. Needs to be supported minimum temperature at night not lower than +6 o C, in the daytime - about +12 +15 o C. In case of overheating on sunny days, open the greenhouse doors for ventilation. Angels, bicolor and tricolor varieties are best kept at higher temperatures, placing them in warmer places in the greenhouse or loggia.

Good air circulation around the plants is required; they should not be placed too closely; if necessary, the dense roots should be thinned out a little. This will help avoid the occurrence of fungal diseases. Watering at this time is quite scarce, experienced flower growers carry it out from pallets, clearly measuring the amount of water and determining the time of the next watering by the weight of the pots, while the top of the soil is always left dry.

There are also other wintering methods. One of them is to preserve plants in the form of rooted cuttings, while the mother plant is thrown away. The method is used for summer cultivation of pelargoniums in the open air.

The second method is also used for outdoor growing: on the eve of frost, the plant is dug up, excess soil is shaken off the roots, the plant is heavily pruned and wrapped in paper, then hung in a cool basement. The room should be well ventilated and high humidity air so that the plant does not dry out. In the spring it is planted in a pot, and with the onset of warmth it is planted in open ground. You can combine the first and second methods: first take cuttings, and then send the mother plant to the basement for the winter.

Wintering occurs during the darkest time of the year and lasts approximately 2.5-3 months (from November to February). Already at the end of January - beginning of February, with increasing daylight hours, pelargoniums gradually begin to wake up.

Watering

When watering pelargoniums, it is important to remember that these are fairly drought-resistant plants, while at the same time easily susceptible to fungal diseases. Therefore, it is better to underwater the plant a little rather than overwater it. In summer, water as the top layer dries, provided that the plant is in a warm and sunny place. In winter, in cool conditions, watering should be limited, but not allowed to completely dry out the soil.

Signs of excessive watering will be limp, drooping leaves, often with signs of gray rot; in severe cases, the stem will begin to rot, which almost always leads to the death of the plant. Another symptom of excess moisture is the appearance of “sores” on the underside of leaves. When the earthen clod dries out, the plant stops blooming, the leaves turn yellow, and their edges dry out.

Air humidity for pelargoniums it is not important; these plants do not require spraying. Excessive dampness and stagnant air can cause fungal diseases.

Feeding

It is advisable to introduce fertilizing with each watering, reducing the dosage accordingly. So, if watering is done every day, then divide the weekly norm of fertilizers by 7-10 and give this dose for each watering. If the lump has had time to dry out between waterings, then it is necessary to first moisten it with clean water. During winter rest, feeding is canceled if the temperature is kept low and the plants are completely rested. When at least slight growth is observed, fertilizer can be introduced at ¼ dosage. Soon after the cuttings have rooted, use a high-nitrogen fertilizer. To feed young plants that are not yet allowed to bloom, use a complex universal fertilizer. Before the onset of the flowering period, approximately 2.5-3 months (in April), they begin to use fertilizer with a higher potassium content. If there are signs of chlorosis, it should be treated with magnesium sulfate and iron chelate (or simply a solution of trace elements in chelated form).

Landing

Priming Pelargonium prefers fertile and well-drained soil. It consists of turf soil, humus, peat and sand in approximately equal proportions.

Lifespan The lifespan of a separate pelargonium bush is usually 2-5 years, after which the plant loses its decorative effect and it is better to take care of renewal in time by rooting cuttings. For growing ornamental flowering plant From the cutting it will take about a year or a little more. Cuttings rooted early in spring may bloom this summer, but it is advisable to give preference to the formation beautiful bush for abundant flowering next year.

Cuttings can be taken at any time, from early spring to autumn. But here it is necessary to take into account the time of flowering of the plant, which for different varieties ranges from 16 to 20 weeks after the last pinching or pruning (flowering occurs on young shoots that have reached this age). If you have the only specimen of this variety, then you will have to wait until after flowering to take cuttings. If there are several copies, then it is better to take cuttings earlier, starting from February-March, then young plant there will be more time to develop for lush flowering next year, before this moment it is necessary to remove all emerging buds. It is not recommended to take cuttings before the end of January, when daylight hours are short. By this time, the plants are just beginning to wake up from the cool winter. If you take cuttings from dormant plants, the level of growth hormones in them is low and rooting will take longer. For pelargoniums such as angels, royal and fragrant, it is advisable to take cuttings at the end of winter or early spring (later, with increasing light levels, the formation of flower buds will begin closer to the tops of the shoots). For most varieties of zonal pelargoniums, this period is not so important, since flower buds they are planted along the entire length of the shoot and cuttings can be taken at any time during the growing season.

Cuttings must be taken only from healthy and vigorous plants - the stronger and stockier the cutting, the better it will develop in the future. For cuttings, take the apical parts of shoots approximately 5-7 cm long, from miniature and dwarf varieties- approximately 2.5-3 cm. The lower leaves and stipules should be carefully removed, and an oblique cut with a slight slope should be made under the lower node. Dry the lower cut of the cutting in air; depending on the conditions, this may take from several hours to several minutes. You can use drugs that stimulate root formation, but pelargonium produces roots well even without their use.

Rooting takes from 2 to 4 weeks, depending on conditions and variety. Roots form on the lower cut of the cutting. A mixture of sterile peat substrate and perlite in approximately equal proportions is used as rooting soil. It is important that water does not stagnate in the soil. Sterilizing the soil before use reduces the likelihood of cuttings rotting. Small pots (6 cm in diameter) or transparent cups (100-200 ml in volume) are filled with soil mixture and kept on a tray with water until the top of the substrate begins to be wetted. After this, the soil is allowed to dry for about a day.

Another method of rooting is also popular. Take two pots, insert a second, narrower pot into the wider one, fill the space between them with soil, and the prepared cuttings are planted here. They are immersed in the ground by about 1-3 cm (depending on the variety) and pressed lightly.

The next watering is carried out sparingly and through a tray when the soil dries. It is advisable to introduce a systemic fungicide into the soil during the second watering after planting the cuttings. A greenhouse is not required for rooting pelargonium cuttings. During the first 2-3 days, the leaves may wilt (do not expose the cuttings to sunlight!), later they restore turgor.

Optimal temperature rooting of pelargonium cuttings - about +20+22 o C.

After rooting, the first pinching The cutting is carried out when it forms 8-10 leaves. The apical growth point is removed with a sharp sterile knife. This stimulates the growth of side shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves. If shoots begin to grow only from 1-2 upper buds, then it is advisable to remove them or pinch them as soon as they produce 3 leaves. The next pinchings are carried out as the side shoots grow, when they form 8-10 leaves. This will ensure lush branching, and subsequently abundant flowering. It is optimal to form a crown in the form of 2/3 of a ball. The last pinching of the plant is carried out no later than 16-20 weeks (depending on the variety) before the expected flowering. Since flowering is influenced by external factors(illumination), then you can expect it to start in May or June, so the last pinching is carried out no later than February. As they grow, diseased or weak shoots are removed, those that are growing too vigorously are shortened, trying to maintain uniformity of the roots. Also cut out all leaves that do not match the grade in size or color.

As the young plant grows, it is applied several times per season. transplanted(carefully transferring) into a slightly larger pot, without trying to give a large volume at once. Transshipment is carried out only when the roots tightly entwine the ball. For a one-year-old plant maximum size the pot should not exceed: for miniature varieties - 9 cm, dwarf varieties and angels - 11 cm, for other varieties - no more than 15 cm in diameter. The last transplantation of cuttings rooted this season is carried out closer to winter rest or after its end at the beginning of the next season.

Pruning an old plant after flowering, taking cuttings

After the end of flowering of the mother plant, it is cut apical cuttings for rooting. Pelargoniums are very susceptible to fungal diseases, so it is advisable to make a cut at mother plant above the node and be sure to treat the cut area with a fungicide, sprinkle with coal or sulfur; these measures will reduce the likelihood of stem rotting. It is optimal to carry out cuttings in warm weather, this also reduces the risk of disease. It is better not to remove old leaves that remain on the plant at this time, as they will begin to grow sooner side shoots. As young shoots grow, old leaves are removed. As soon as the young shoots grow 8-10 leaves, they are pinched.

To give crown uniformity and stimulation good flowering old specimens are given pruning, remove frail and diseased shoots, shorten long ones, leaving 2 to 5 buds on each shoot. It is not advisable to prune in the fall, since at home, without strict adherence to cool wintering conditions, weak side shoots are formed that will have to be removed.

Reproduction

Cuttings. Pelargonium reproduces well using cuttings - this is the main method of propagating varietal plants, only it completely (excluding cases of somatic mutations - spots) guarantees the preservation of all varietal characteristics of the plant. Read about cuttings of pelargoniums above.

Seed propagation. Many varieties are hybrid in nature, and even if they can set seed, plants from such seeds will not necessarily retain the varietal qualities of the original plants. Pelargonium species and a small number of varieties are successfully grown from seeds.

Mostly on sale you can find seeds of F1 hybrids (first generation) and F2 hybrids (second generation); they are produced by large seed companies by crossing two different varieties. Plants grown from such seeds are not very interesting to collectors, but are more suitable for mass gardening - they are not distinguished by a rich variety of colors, but have increased stability.

The optimal time for sowing seeds is the end of January - February. With increasing daylight hours it will be possible to grow strong seedlings, and the seedlings will most likely bloom this summer. You can sow earlier, but in winter you will definitely need additional lighting so that the seedlings do not stretch out.

To germinate seeds, use poor sterile soil. Seeds are sown on the surface, sprinkled with a thin layer (literally 2-3 mm) of soil mixture, spilled and not covered with anything. The optimal temperature for germination is +20+24 o C. You can sow the seeds one at a time in individual small cups, then picking will not be required. Shoots appear in 2-3 weeks.

Diseases and pests

• Causes great damage to pelargoniums gray rot . It appears as a gray coating on the leaves and other parts of the plant. Its occurrence is provoked by coolness, dampness, waterlogging, and poor air ventilation. The disease occurs especially often during winter rest, which is why it is so important to provide plants with good ventilation, not place them close to each other, and remove diseased and unnecessary leaves in a timely manner.
• Often found on pelargoniums rust. It appears as concentric yellowish above and brown below spots on the leaves.
• From waterlogging of the soil you can observe stem rotting, appearing as dark depressed spots at the base of the stem. This is certain death of the plant, but you can try to take the apical cutting.
• Verticillium wilt Caused by a fungus that attacks the plant's conducting system. The disease manifests itself in the gradual yellowing and wilting of the plant and cannot be treated.
• Damages are also possible by other pathogenic fungi that cause on leaves, petioles and other parts of plants different kinds spotting.

It is important to carry out timely preventative treatments plants against fungal diseases, especially on the eve of winter holidays. Plants are generously sprayed with preparations or the crown is immersed in a container with fungicide. It is advisable to use systemic fungicides wide spectrum of action, such as Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Topsin, etc. If a fungal disease is detected, the diseased parts of the plant are removed and treated with the same preparations.

• Pelargonium is often affected whitefly. When purchasing a plant, inspect it carefully bottom part leaf for the presence of small white butterflies or white capsule formations and their larvae. If you find at least a few individuals, you should refuse to purchase.
• When found mealybug It’s also better not to buy a plant. In the axils of the leaves and on the stems you can see accumulations that look like pieces of white cotton wool.
• Pelargoniums can also be affected thrips, aphids, mites.

Physiological disorders not associated with diseases or pests

• Redness of leaves. The reason is that the temperature is too low. We need to change the conditions of detention.
• The plant does not bloom, although it general state good. The reason may be too high a temperature, lack of light or excessive watering.
• The leaves turn yellow and fall off, the edges of the leaves dry out. The reason may be insufficient watering; if the stem is heavily exposed, it may be a lack of light.

Photo: Nina Starostenko, Rita Brilliantova

Many flower lovers love pelargonium - beautiful unpretentious flower, easy to propagate, easy to care for. Pelargonium is popularly called geranium, although this is not entirely true. , which is frost-resistant and can be grown in one place for many years. But pelargonium is thermophilic, and can be kept in the garden only in the warm season. Growing pelargonium does not cause any difficulties even for a novice gardener, if you have an understanding of the characteristics of this flower.
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What are the features of pelargonium?

This flower is considered to be in the geranium family. The flower was brought to Europe from Holland in the 18th century. It quickly gained popularity among flower growers. Breeders have managed to develop a large variety of pelargonium species. All varieties can be divided into six large groups: ampelous (ivy-leaved), English domestic large-flowered, garden, fragrant, variegated, succulent.

Moreover, ivy-leaved and garden variety They reproduce well by seeds and grow well in open ground, decorating flower arrangements.

Pelargonium - growing conditions

It can be grown in winter at home, and in summer in the garden or directly in the ground or in pots, complementing

• Temperature. Pelargonium is thermophilic, so before the first frost it needs to be moved indoors. Optimal home temperature in winter time should be from 8 to 12 degrees. In summer, the plant requires moderate heat of 17-23 degrees. The plant is planted in the garden outdoors after threats of return frosts. At a temperature of about 12 degrees, pelargonium stops blooming. But high temperatures are also undesirable for the plant. About low not comfortable temperature The plant signals by turning the leaves red. When removing a flower from the garden in the fall, it is necessary to reduce the temperature and amount of water when watering so that the plant reduces its growth and does not become depleted in low light.
• Lighting. The plant is light-loving and with a lack of light it blooms weakly and becomes very elongated. Interestingly, when grown in the garden it tolerates direct sunlight very well, but at home the flower needs to be protected from the sun by shading the flower. However, with a lack of lighting, the plant begins to turn yellow, losing the lower leaves and exposing the stem, and blooms poorly. At home, it is necessary to turn the flower towards the light several times a week for its uniform development.
• The flower loves space, so there is no need to plant other plants close.

pelargonium - variety of species

• Watering. Pelargonium is a drought-resistant flower, but quickly becomes infected with fungal diseases. Therefore, when watering, it is better to underwater than to overwater. Therefore, they usually water the plant when the soil under it dries out, without allowing it to dry out completely. The leaves signal that the plant is overwatering: they become limp and drooping. If there is a lack of water in the soil, the leaves turn yellow, the edges dry out, and the plant stops blooming. Air humidity does not play a role in the life of pelargonium, so it does not need to be sprayed. Increased humidity can provoke fungal diseases.
• Feeding Experts advise combining it with each watering, calculating the dose of fertilizer for the number of waterings. Or feed once a week until late autumn. If the soil under the plant is dry, you must first water it. plain water, and then with the addition of fertilizers. If in winter you managed to create reduced temperature, then fertilizing is completely unnecessary. If the flower still grows a little, then fertilizing is carried out with a quarter of the required dose of fertilizer. 2-2.5 months before flowering, the plant needs to be fed mineral fertilizers with lots of potassium. If symptoms of leaf chlorosis appear, be sure to include iron chelate and magnesium sulfate in the fertilizing.
• The soil. For beautiful flowering And healthy plant the soil must be fertile. The composition of the soil consists of a mixture in equal proportions of peat, sand, and garden soil. It is imperative to drain the stones. Do not forget to loosen the soil more often so that there is good air access to the roots, which will prevent them from rotting.
• Pot size. For pelargonium flower pot selected according to the size of the root system. The plant grows much better and also blooms brighter and more abundantly in small containers. In large pots, the plant itself begins to actively develop to the detriment of flowering.
• To form a bush and quickly branch, it is recommended to pinch the growing tip around February or March.

Pelargonium propagation

The plant develops well within 2-5 years. Therefore, you need to propagate it by cuttings, which can be rooted from early spring to late autumn. Cuttings are taken from the tops 5-7 cm long only from healthy and strong plants. Bottom sheets Carefully remove from the cutting and make an oblique cut below the node, which needs to be dried and then placed in a container with water until roots appear.
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Some of our familiar indoor flowers were once considered rare species, but, thanks to their unpretentiousness, they have spread widely. For example, zonal pelargonium can be classified as such flowers. Growing from seeds allows you to place this wonderful plant, well known to everyone, in your indoor garden or dacha.

Pelargonium zonalis - growing from seeds

Oddly enough, but under this beautiful name– pelargonium – the familiar geranium is hidden. It is often called “grandmother’s flower.” This herbaceous or semi-shrub perennial, whose homeland is hot South Africa, has long been firmly established in our lives and decorates the windowsills of houses for centuries. Yes, pelargonium was brought from the south globe to Europe back in the 17th century and since then has been actively used in landscape design, decorates windows, and simply brings joy to people with its long and rich flowering.

The undeniable advantages of geranium are the following:

• unpretentiousness;
• ease of care;
• long flowering period;
• beautifully shaped buds;
• useful economic qualities;
• a fragrant aroma that many people like.

On a note! Pelargonium smells not only of flowers, but also of leaves - they emit a rather pungent aroma that is easy to feel, even just by touching green part plants. Some people find this smell unpleasant, but there are still fans of geranium amber. It is worth knowing that not all pelargoniums have this pungent aroma - there are those that smell of fruits and herbs.

The name "pelargonium" comes from the Greek pelargos, which means "stork's beak". And it appeared due to the fact that the fruits of the geranium (and it really has fruits) are shaped like the beak of this bird.

The stem of pelargonium is straight, but there are also creeping species. The leaves are simple, dissected-palmate or palmate, very beautifully shaped. Pelargonium blooms with small lush flowers, which are collected in rich umbrella inflorescences. In this case, the color of the petals can be different - white and red, orange, pink and so on.

Pelargonium is photophilous and easily copes with lack of moisture. Reproduction is done by cuttings or seeds. The first method is the most successful - geranium can easily grow even from one leaf of the mother plant.

Pelargonium is a light-loving plant

Pelargonium is also of great economic importance. Its leaves can be dried and added to tea, or filled into sachets. Geranium itself perfectly purifies indoor air, as it has bactericidal effect. That is why it is used in folk medicine. This plant accelerates the healing process of wounds and has a calming effect on the human condition. Geranium oil is obtained from pelargonium leaves, and the root extract of the culture is used to treat respiratory diseases.

Pelargonium zonal - photo

Pelargonium zonal - description and features

Nowadays, geraniums are actively selected using the latest biotechnological methods - this is done by large gardening centers. Increasingly, hybrid seeds (labeled F1) are appearing on the shelves. By the way, Germany made the greatest contribution to the development of different varieties.

One of the most popular types of pelargonium among gardeners is zonal pelargonium. She is the one who has the greatest varietal diversity– there are more than 75 thousand of them. Pelargonium zonalis received this name because its leaves are colored differently from the main background, and the petals of double or simple flowers are often painted in two colors. The zone on the leaves usually appears as a colored spot or ring in the central part of the leaf.

Attention! If there is not enough light, the area painted in a different color may disappear. For example, in winter the leaves of zonal pelargonium often have a uniform color, but in spring the colored area appears again.

Zonal pelargonium is a lush, upright perennial bush rich in leaves, the flowers of which are collected in rich inflorescences. The leaves have a specific geranium aroma and a light edge. This type of geranium entered floriculture around 1710, arriving in Europe from the African Cape region, and previously had a very tall stem. But in the process of selection (from about 1844), the same neat pelargonium appeared that grows on window sills now.

By the way, with proper care, pelargonium can bloom throughout the summer. And if you carefully look after it in winter, then throughout the year. The plant feels great both at home and outside, in the garden.

On a note! A small addition regarding the colored zone on the leaves: in some plants the pattern may be bright, while in others it may be completely absent. But at the same time, zonal pelargonium still remains zonal. This property allows geranium to be successfully used in landscape design.

Now there are two main directions of work of breeders with geraniums - the appearance of plants with star-shaped flowers and geraniums with beautiful design on the leaves. The first ones look very beautiful, attract the attention of gardeners with their openwork forms of inflorescences, the second ones have a border of leaves different shades(yellow, white). Previously, even the flowers of such plants were deliberately cut off so as not to hide the beauty of the leaves underneath.

Classification of zonal pelargonium

Pelargonium zonalis is classified into groups depending on the type of flowers in the inflorescences; it happens:

• terry(such flowers have more than 8 delicate petals);
• semi-double(from 6 to 8 petals);
• non-double(5 petals for each flower).

There are also separate subgroups of zonal pelargoniums.

Table. Subgroups of zonal pelargonium.

Choosing seeds

Pelargonium zonalis has a mass garden forms, varieties, subspecies. Meteor, which has dark green leaves with barely noticeable zoning, is very popular. The color of the petals, collected in umbrella inflorescences, is bright red, with dark veins in the center. Excellent for growing in the garden.

Flower growers love the Rocky Mountain variety. This is a fairly tall plant with white and red flowers, which can also be of a rather unusual color - lilac (Jazz), salmon (Nobless).

Popular medium-growing variety- this is Rumba Fire, which is not just painted red, but practically “glows” with it - the color of these flowers is so bright. Bravo Pastel also looks rich and unusual, having white-pink flowers with delicate transitions and a crimson center.

Bright red Merkur 2000 has huge flowers, but itself - small sizes, like Alba, which is painted white. Sharman 98 has petals of a delicate pink-salmon color.

On a note! When buying seeds in a store, you should pay attention to the quality of the packaging - it should be well sealed. It is also necessary to familiarize yourself with the expiration date - do not buy old seeds. In general, you should choose in favor of trusted seed producers.

Newcomers to the world of floriculture should not mess with capricious plants(and there are such even among unpretentious geraniums). It is better to take simpler varieties for the first time, and then, gradually gaining experience, move on to more demanding crops. To plant pelargonium outdoors, it is worth buying varieties that tolerate temperature changes well and are suitable for specific growing conditions at a specific summer cottage.

Growing pelargonium

You can start growing zonal geranium at any time of the year. The fact is that it sprouts perfectly even in winter (with additional lighting), even in summer period of the year. But the best time is considered to be from November to April. You can do without additional illumination of seedlings by planting pelargonium from February to March. And in this case, by summer you will be able to get flowering bushes that will perfectly decorate your dacha or balcony.

Geranium seeds are quite large, with a dense shell, and oblong. Before planting them in the ground, it is necessary to carry out preparation. The procedure is called scarification - planting material carefully sand with fine-grained sandpaper or a nail file. After this it is soaked in water room temperature and then treated with “Epin” or “Zircon”.

On a note! Preparing the seeds will speed up the emergence of seedlings - the latter will appear within about a week after sowing. And untreated seeds can germinate up to 3 months. Stores usually sell planting material that has already been processed, which will sprout in a couple of weeks.

Of particular importance for unpretentious, but still in need of special conditions pelargonium has soil. It should be soft, loose, airy, moisture-absorbing. This can be obtained by mixing perlite and peat (1:1) or turf, sand and peat (2:1:1). Soil can be disinfected by spilling it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and a biofungicide.

Sowing geranium seeds

Step 1. The previously prepared soil is poured into a small, thoroughly washed container with drainage holes made at the bottom. It compacts slightly and spills with water.

Step 2. Using a toothpick, the seeds are carefully placed in the soil to a depth of about 0.5 cm. Grooves or holes can be made in advance. The seeds should be placed at a distance of about 5 cm from each other. After that they dig in.

Step 3. Vermicompost for seedlings is diluted in water (3 ml per 200 ml of water), poured into a container with a spray bottle.

Step 4. The soil with the seeds is sprayed with the mixture. This will populate the soil with beneficial microflora.

On a note! After sowing the seeds, they can be spilled not with the above solution, but with boiling water.

Step 5. The container with soil and seeds is covered with a lid (film, a piece of glass) and put away where it is warm and light (for example, on a windowsill).

Video - Sowing pelargonium seeds

Conditions for growing pelargonium

In order for the seeds to germinate faster, the box with plantings is placed on a light windowsill in warm room. It is necessary to maintain the air temperature around +18-22 degrees. It is also important to maintain soil moisture. It is convenient to water using a pipette, syringe or spray bottle. The temperature after the appearance of plants decreases by 2 degrees.

The first shoots will hatch in about 5-10 days, after which it is important to ensure that the soil does not dry out. The sprouts should receive bright but diffused light. The lid from the container with seedlings is soon removed, but before that the plants are regularly ventilated so that they get used to fresh air. Seedlings can be fed once every couple of weeks.

Important! As soon as 3-4 true leaves appear (after about 1-1.5 months), the seedlings are planted in separate pots. The air temperature drops to +16-20 degrees. Then, to make the plants bush better, they are pinched above the 6th leaf. Pelargonium moves to open ground when the threat of frost has passed.