Heated summer shower: do-it-yourself arrangement of a barrel with a stove. Using flat shower trays in the floor

It’s a good idea to build a shower without a tray with your own hands. After all, even Chinese-made booths are sometimes quite expensive, but you don’t want to invest so much money in the purchase. If you are planning a major renovation in the bathroom, then you can make a very beautiful and comfortable shower literally from available materials: cement, brick, tile. The only mandatory requirement for such a structure is its thorough waterproofing. This will prevent conflicts with neighbors below regarding flooding of their bathroom.

Where to start construction?

Preparation for the construction of even a small structure begins with an assessment of construction possibilities. In the case of building a shower cabin without a tray, the main attention should be paid to the choice sewer drain, or drainage device. With its help, water falling from the shower head will be removed without accumulating under a person’s feet.

In city apartments and private houses with an existing subfloor, it would be more rational to install a horizontal drainage system with a side connection to the existing one sewer system. If the construction of a shower takes place during the construction of a cottage, then a vertical drain can be installed with a connection to the local sewerage system through the ceiling.

Before making a shower stall without a tray, you need to take into account that the water drainage unit will take up space under its floor. Even for a horizontal ladder, the height to which the floor must be raised is about 10 cm. This creates a fairly large load on the floors in a multi-story building and requires significantly higher repair costs. In this regard, you should make a decision: make a small podium for installing a cubicle or evenly raise the floor level over the entire area of ​​the bathroom.

How to make a podium?

The dimensions of the raised area of ​​the floor for the shower must be sufficient for a person to take a shower without touching the walls and fence of the stall. They depend on the dimensions of the owner of the house and can be chosen to suit your taste. It is irrational to make the podium smaller than 90x90 cm.

To construct the podium you will need the following materials:

• waterproofing film or mastic;
• sheets of polystyrene foam 5 cm thick;
• cement, sand and crushed stone for screed, brick if necessary;
• shower drain and sewer pipes;
• finishing material (tiles, mosaics, etc.).

Clear selected location from old screed to the concrete floor. Apply a layer of mastic so that the isolated area is larger than the area of ​​the planned podium by at least 10 cm around the perimeter. Adjacent walls should be evenly covered with mastic to a height of at least 15 cm.

Install and connect new pipes to the sewer system. When carrying out communications, it is necessary to take into account that the angle of inclination of the pipes should be 2-3° with a decrease towards the riser or waste pipe. Install a drain assembly with a siphon and grate, connect it to new pipe. Check the operation of the drain and eliminate defects.

The next stage of construction will be the formation of a multi-layer floor, as a result of which the podium will be raised, and communications will be hidden in the thickness of the new architectural element. The basis of the shower stall is formed as follows:

Making a podium is advisable in large bathrooms, where there is room for a raised section of the floor. Most often, in city apartments, the bathroom has a very small area, where an extra “step” can interfere with installation washing machine, plumbing or the movement of the owners themselves. In this case, it is better to prefer the option without a podium.

How to make a drain in the bathroom floor?

Very convenient option for small bathrooms - a shower, which is limited only by temporary walls made of plastic curtains. When no one is using the shower, the corner occupied by it provides more space in the bathroom. To carry out hygiene procedures, it is enough to close the curtains. Even in large bathrooms, discreet showers are becoming increasingly popular. This is convenient and beautiful, although it requires material costs and work on pouring a concrete screed throughout the entire space of the bathroom.

The principles of constructing a shower without a podium are no different from constructing one on a raised area of ​​the floor. The first step should be reliable waterproofing of the base, cleared of the old coating and screed. Unlike constructing a podium, you will have to insulate the entire area of ​​the bathroom and the lower part of the walls of the room. The shower drain must be installed in a place convenient for the owners. Usually this is the far corner of the room: there the booth will not interfere with walking.

The drain is assembled and connected in the same way as for the podium. Once it is installed, you can determine the height to which the floor level will rise and install the connections to the sewer system for other bathroom fixtures. Then everything happens in the same way as indicated for the installation of the podium: EPS slabs, concrete screed, waterproofing and screed again.

The last layer of screed is formed with an inclination towards the drain hole. There can be many options for making an inclined floor:

• four-sided;
• smooth circular, cup-shaped;
• double-sided (if the drain is in the very corner);
• semicircular or in the form of a sector;
• one-sided (convenient if ladder-trays with a length of more than 1 m are used).

Lay tiles on top of the screed and carefully.

After the floor installation work is completed, you can install plumbing fittings: mixer taps, a shower hose with a watering can or other spout systems (mountain waterfall, cascade, rain). To prevent water from splashing all over the bathroom, install a glass fence around the cubicle or hang protective plastic curtains.

How to make a fence?

If the bathroom is large, then the shower stall is enclosed with stationary walls made of brick or glass even before the flooring begins. In this case, you may not even need to install a door, because there is enough space inside the cabin so that splashes do not fly out. But in a small bathroom, every centimeter of space is accounted for, so it’s better to make the wall sliding. The simplest option is a curtain.

This type of fence can be removed when the booth is not in use by simply sliding it against the wall. To hang the curtain you need to install brackets with a rod. Exist different models these hangers. What they have in common is that the support brackets are attached to the walls in the right places, and a straight or curved rod is placed between them.

More difficult option can be considered installation glass walls and doors. These devices can be purchased ready-made or made to order. As a rule, plastic or metal profiles are provided for mounting them on the floor and ceiling. They must be installed and secured as recommended by the manufacturer. Typically, the profiles are also runners for moving the sliding cabin door. After the frame is completely assembled, you can glaze the booth and hang the door.

Choosing independent device shower without installing a tray, you can make a stall of the shape and size that will be convenient for the owners. With a large selection of fittings and finishing materials, this structure will be no less aesthetically pleasing than expensive models of purchased plumbing fixtures.

Video instruction

High performance indicators have made shower cabins in demand not only for small bathrooms; today they are also installed in prestigious houses or apartments as an alternative to bathtubs. Shower trays are considered one of the main elements of the cabin; the correct installation of them affects the convenience and duration of use. The pallet installation algorithm depends on its design features and material of manufacture.

Before purchasing a specific pallet, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of the various options. What types of pallets are there?

Depending on the material of manufacture, linear dimensions and geometric shapes, the cost of pallets varies quite widely. These characteristics also influence the installation methods of pallets. Professionals conditionally classify products into the following categories.

shower tray

It is better to purchase pallets complete with shower stalls. If for some reason this option is not suitable for you, then separate installation of the pallet is also possible, and you will have to make the protective fences yourself. When choosing a specific model, it is recommended to pay attention to the following features.

1. Noisy. The sound of water falling on steel pallets can cause discomfort to others. Especially if you shower early in the morning and interior partitions do not have high noise absorption rates.

   The loudest ones are made from sheet steel, acrylic ones are characterized by less noise, all the others do not emit unpleasant sounds. When choosing, take into account the number and daily routine of everyone living in the apartment, the features of the room, and the location of the bathroom in relation to other rooms.

2. Strength. Cast iron pallets are the strongest, steel comes in second place, and ceramic and plastic have almost the same performance. If you have children, then it is better to choose durable models; if everyone living is an adult, then there are no restrictions on this parameter. The only note is that for plastic ones it is necessary to provide sufficiently strong stops along the maximum surface - this eliminates the possibility of deformation under heavy weight.
3. When choosing an installation location, pay attention to the features of existing water drainage pipes and the architectural characteristics of the room.
4. Price. The advice is one and universal - the cost should correspond to financial capabilities. But keep in mind that a high price does not guarantee the same high quality. For example, pallets made of natural stone are the most expensive. But in terms of actual performance characteristics, they take last place. In this regard, we are not even considering this option.
5. Design. Choose a tray that fits seamlessly into the existing bathroom interior. As for color, white is considered not only traditional, but also the most universal.

Video - Which tray to choose for your shower

Once a decision has been made on a specific type, installation can begin. Installation depends on the design features of the pallet; this should be taken into account when purchasing and soberly assess your capabilities and skills. Choose pallets that you can easily install. We will look at three examples of pallet installation; the rest do not make any fundamental difference.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a pallet on foam concrete

Construction and installation work is among the simplest in terms of complexity, but increased care is required when connecting drains. For example, let's take a universal square plastic pallet.

Step 1. Decide on a specific installation location. We have already mentioned that you should pay attention to the existing layout of utility networks. The outlet of the drain pipeline must be located under the plane of the pan. Making the sewer visible is allowed only in extreme cases. And then in the future it is recommended to take a set of measures to hide the pipelines.

Step 2. Purchase materials and prepare tools. In addition to the pan itself, you will need a siphon, a corrugated drain hose, a tape measure, a level, silicone sealant, foam concrete, tile adhesive, a caulk gun, a saw, a trowel, a tray and a pencil or marker.

Step 3. Preparing for installation. The floor must be clean and level, the outlet of the pipe for draining water is under the plane of the pan. Place the pallet in the intended location and trace the outer contours with a pencil.

Step 4. If your pallet model does not have factory legs, then you need to place it on four stands cut out of foam concrete at all angles. The height of the stands is within 10 cm.

Step 5. Prepare the tile lei according to the instructions. Make sure that there are no dry lumps in the mixture.

Step 6. Apply glue to the back of the four stands, set them in place, and place the tray on top.

Using a level, level its position, check all four directions, they must be strictly horizontal. To do this, tilt the blocks in the desired direction with gentle blows of a construction hammer or the handle of a trowel.

Step 7 Wait a bit for the glue to harden. These four corner blocks will be the height guides for the foundation for the pallet. From the same foam blocks, use a hacksaw to cut out pieces for arranging the entire structure. As a result, you should end up with a square that fits the entire perimeter of the pallet.

Practical recommendation. Do the laying in the usual way, applying glue from the bottom and sides of the blocks. Constantly check the position of each element with a level and correct them if any deviations are detected. Further work can be continued only after 24 hours.

While the foundation is maturing, begin installing the shower and faucet. Place them at a comfortable height, making sure that in places threaded connections there were no leaks.

Step 8 Place the tray on the foam blocks and mark the location of the drain hole on the floor.

Take care of the drain. If necessary, pull the inlet of the sewer drain pipe to the drain hole. In our case, no special precision is needed; the final connection is made with a flexible corrugated hose.

Step 9 Assemble and reinstall the siphon. Very important work. Please note that dismantling plastic pallet on the foundation without damaging it is impossible. Such manipulations can be done with pallets on legs, but we will talk about their features below.

Make every effort to completely eliminate the risk of drain leakage. What should be done for this?

1. Read the siphon assembly instructions and check the technical condition of all its elements. Pay special attention to the condition of rubber gaskets and seals.
2. Do not use excessive force during assembly. rubber seals install in correct position. For easier entry plastic pipes Lubricate the seals with special lubricants, soap or plain water. Never try to connect dryly or with too much force. The fact is that the thin edges of rubber seals are very easily damaged, and as a result, a leak will definitely appear. It is impossible to notice it under the pallet in time, to eliminate problems that have arisen due to prolonged exposure to water building construction It will require not only a lot of time and effort, but also financial resources.

Step 10 Spread the upper perimeter of the block stand with glue; the solution is about a centimeter thick.

Place the pan in place, screw on the siphon, connect the flexible hose to the inlet of the drain pipe.

Step 11 Using a level, level the tray horizontally.

Take your time, lower the edges very carefully. If you make a mistake and one edge of the pan is tilted too much, then to eliminate the problem you will have to disconnect the siphon, remove the pan and start all installation operations over again.

Step 12 Seal the joints where the pallet meets the walls. Be sure to degrease the surfaces and clean them of dirt and dust. There is a wide variety of sealants, but we recommend that you use special plumbing silicone ones. They have a slight elasticity, which compensates for the vibration of the edges of the tray while taking a shower. In addition, it contains antiseptics that prevent the proliferation of microflora and pathogenic bacteria.

Notice how unsightly shower stalls look with black mold stripes around the perimeter of the tray. This is a consequence of violating the rules for installing pallets. Flaw silicone sealants– after a few months it is necessary to inspect the tightness of the seam. The fact is that the material begins to peel off in some places.

The application of sealant is done using a special gun. Cut the tip of the tube at a 45° angle and gently push the material into the slot. Do not leave gaps; irregularities can be removed with your finger or any available object of appropriate width and length can be adjusted. To prevent silicone from sticking to it, wet the item in soapy water.

Step 13 Proceed to cover the visible surfaces of the block foundation of the pallet with ceramic tiles. If the tile had to be cut, then it is better to place the cut at the bottom, and to improve the design characteristics, use special plastic or aluminum corners. They are sold in the store along with tiles.

At this point, the work of installing the pallet on the foundation is completed; final installation can be done only after the glue has completely hardened. This will take at least two days.

Installing a shower tray with legs

This pallet is installed much faster; it often comes with a special plastic screen, which allows installation without masonry work. If the screen is not included in the kit, then at the final stage the perimeter of the pallet must be trimmed with blocks or bricks of appropriate parameters and covered with ceramic tiles. Before starting work, check that all pallet installation elements are present and carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 1. Lean the tray against a wall or place it on your workbench. Find the places where the legs are fixed; they have factory markings or are thicker due to molded fastening inserts.

Step 2. Screw the legs. Pre-adjust their height using a tape measure. Exact height adjustment must be done on the floor.

Important. Please note that each leg has a lock nut to secure the element in the selected position. Make sure that all the locknuts are in place, otherwise you will have to remove the legs again to install the nuts.

Step 3. Place the pan in the desired location and decide on the method of connecting the water drainage. Depending on the location of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe, additional connections will have to be made to connect the siphon. The siphon should be sold together with the tray; if not, buy it separately. At the same time, make sure that the dimensions of the equipment allow it to be installed under a pallet. If you don’t have enough personal experience, consult a store sales consultant.

Step 4. Assemble the siphon, pay great attention to the quality of all connections, do not allow leaks. Remember that eliminating them will always take much longer than a high-quality assembly. Not to mention the financial side of the issue and possible negative consequences.

Step 5. Place the tray back in place and use a level to set it to a horizontal position. Control all sides and do not allow them to slope in any direction. After adjustment, be sure to tighten the locknuts.

Step 6. If the kit includes metal profiles to support the side surfaces against the wall, install them. Mark a specific location and use a level to check the horizontal position. The metal profiles are fixed to the wall with dowels; drill holes for them in the right places.

Important. If the walls are already finished with ceramic tiles, then all measures should be taken to prevent them from cracking during drilling.

How to avoid unpleasant situations?

1. Never drill a hole where tiles meet. When installing metal profiles, it is always possible to move them slightly to one side or another and thus choose a safe place for drilling holes. However, such manipulations will in no way affect the fixation strength of the pallet.
2. Always work only with serviceable tools and sharp drills. Do not apply much force while drilling.
3. It is strictly forbidden to use a drill in hammer drill mode; ceramic tiles do not tolerate shock loads. The hammer is turned on only after the thickness of the tile has been passed.

Step 7 Connect the drain.

Never assemble rubber seals with great force; lubricate them with mastics or at least moisten them with ordinary water. It is very easy to damage the seals, but they cannot be repaired; they need to be completely replaced. A problem may arise when searching for an identical replacement. Such troubles especially often arise during the search for spare parts for imported pallets. It is not recommended to use silicone as a sealant when assembling the water drain; it will definitely peel off after a certain amount of time and leak.

Installing the pallet on factory plastic stands

Some manufacturers complete pallets with stand blanks made of durable extruded polystyrene foam. Such structures are very low in height and require a different installation algorithm.

Step 1. Unpack the pallet and remove the stand blanks.

Step 2. Try on their length around the perimeter of the pallet, measure the required parameters. To make breaking off easier polystyrene foam boards They have vertical slots; it is enough to bend the material a little in this place and the extra piece will break off.

Step 3. Turn over the assembled plastic stand, place it on the pallet and mark the locations of the stiffeners. Here you need to cut recesses according to the height and width of the ribs. At the same time, make a hole for the drain pipe.

Screwing in the legs

Step 5. Assemble and attach the siphon to the drain. It should be located exactly in the center of the pallet. Try to make adjustments in such a way that the gap between the floor and the stand is minimal. If the floor is tilted towards the wall, you will have to remove the stand several times, unscrew/twist the legs and re-check the horizontal position.

The master traces the frame with a marker

Step 7 Clean the surfaces from dust, degrease, and moisten with water.

Apply a little foam in the center of the drawn outline. Also apply foam to the top surface of the stand.

Step 8 Carefully replace the stand and the tray on it, and check the location of the siphon again. It must be located exactly under the drain hole, otherwise problems will arise when fixing it to the pan. Screw onto the drain mesh. At the same time, she presses the siphon against the pan.

Installing a pallet on a frame

Step 9 Press the tray with great force and leave it in this position until the foam hardens. In order to eliminate the possibility of the tray being lifted by foam, it is recommended to press it inside with heavy objects.

Step 10 Once the foam has firmly adhered the tray to the floor, begin finishing the perimeter of the base with ceramic tiles. On the second day, you can begin sealing the joints. The algorithm for sealing work is no different from the options described above.

Practical advice. Before installing the pallet, estimate its approximate height. Available in stores today big choice tiles of different sizes, there is a chance that you will be able to find the right one. For a precise fit, use the feet. Due to such manipulations, it will be possible to avoid cutting the tiles, and this not only speeds up the process of laying them, but also greatly improves the appearance of the bathroom.

If you do not plan to buy an assembled shower cabin, then draw a diagram of the mounting locations for the brackets on which the protective polyethylene film will be hung. This is a very economical solution, but this option for arranging a shower room has more disadvantages than advantages.

Video - Rules for installing a pallet

The floor for a shower stall without a tray is a rather complex plumbing structure: it must hide the communications connected to the water drain and be sealed. For better water drainage, the floor is sloped towards the drain.

Shower floor without tray

A shower without a tray is a design that existed long before the advent of shower enclosures and has now become popular again. Modern technologies, materials and plumbing make it possible to make such a shower comfortable, hygienic and stylish.

What are the advantages of a shower without a tray, made flush with the bathroom floor, but with a slight slope:

1. You can create a shower room of any size and configuration;
2. Rich possibilities for creating individual designs;
3. The bathroom seems more spacious;
4. An additional emergency drain appears, which will protect the apartment and neighbors below from flooding in the event of a plumbing breakdown or your carelessness;
5. Makes cleaning the bathroom easier;
6. Facilities for people with disabilities and the elderly.

A shower with sides lacks most of these benefits. Sides have to be made when it is impossible to drain flush with the bathroom floor - then you have to raise the floor level in the shower and build sides to ensure water drainage. This usually happens when the sewer drain is located too high.

DIY shower floor

General rules

Work on building a shower without a tray can be divided into several stages:

1. Preparation of the base, sealing with mastic;
2. Installation of drain and drain;
3. Waterproofing with roll material;
4. Filling and screed. Slope device;
5. Final waterproofing of drains, joints and walls;
6. Tiling.

Operations accompany all stages of work. The waterproofing properties of tiles should not be overestimated. Water in the shower penetrates the cement floor through the gaps between the tiles, destroying the structure, creating increased humidity, and promoting the development of fungus. Soon the microcracks that have arisen expand, water begins to ooze and drip from the ceiling of the neighbors below. Therefore, in the shower, several layers of waterproofing are applied to the floor.

Necessary materials

1. Waterproofing mastic at the rate of 3 kg/m2;
2. Rubber membrane (or built-up roofing felt);
3. Siphon;
4. Plastic pipes and connectors for connecting to the sewer drain;
5. Expanded polystyrene sheets, thickness 50 mm.
6. Cement-sand mixture at the rate of 5 kg/m2;
7. Waterproofing tape 10 cm wide;
8. Tile adhesive, 5 kg/m2;
9. Grouting compound (fugue);
10. Silicone sealant.

Preparing the base

It is good if the sewer outlet is located low enough.

1. Remove the floor tiles and screed so as to open access to the drain outlet.
2. Remove protruding parts of metal fittings.
3. Clean the surface from dust and dirt. It should be smooth, with differences of no more than 2 mm.
4. Apply a layer of waterproofing mastic to the floor and walls (to a height of 20-25 cm).

Installation of drains and channels

To prevent puddles from appearing in the shower, water is directed through grates into drains or channels. The type of drainage system chosen depends on its installation, the height of the shower floor, the efficiency of the drain, and the presence/absence of foreign odors in the bathroom.

Types of waste

Water drainage channel

Drains are relatively small containers of any shape - oval, rectangular, triangular, closed with gratings - which receive wastewater and direct it through a pipe into the sewer system. They are installed, as a rule, in the center of the shower, and the floor is sloped towards the center on four sides.

The channels are an elongated rectangular groove covered with a grate or slotted drain. They are more spacious, they are placed along the wall, and the floor slopes in their direction.

A huge range of shower drain systems are produced, protruding 100-30 mm in height.

When choosing, pay attention to the design of the siphon; it is this that determines the height of the shower floor. The lower the siphon, the lower the slope of the sewer pipes and the lower its throughput. Also, in the water seal of such a siphon, the level of sealing water is low - it dries out, and sewer odors can penetrate into the bathroom. Therefore, siphons are also produced with a mechanical valve water seal.

You also need to take into account the throughput - low siphons can pass only 0.5 l/sec, instead of 1.2 l/sec for large siphons. In this case, sometimes two channels and two siphons are installed.

Relatively exterior finishing gratings, we can say that they are varied in design - from high-tech style, with LED backlight to brass, in retro style. It is possible to choose an inconspicuous grille that blends with floor tiles or very impressive.

Installation procedure

1. Mark the position of pipes and drains (channels).
2. Connect drains (channels) through siphons and pipes to the sewer drain pipe. The slope of the pipe must be at least 1 degree.
3. Attach the drains (channels) to the support according to the instructions. The top edge of the grate should be level with the floor.
4. Check the operation of the drain by pouring water through the grates.
5. Cover the grill with self-adhesive film to prevent dirt from entering.
6. Fill the voids with expanded polystyrene slabs; such a floor will be warmer.
7. Fill the space along the marks with a cement-sand mixture. Gradually compact, moistening and adding new portions of the mixture to a level 1-3 cm below the grates.

Floor waterproofing

Mastic coating

1. Using a brush or spatula, apply a layer of waterproofing mastic to the joints along the walls and around the sewer drain.
2. Cover the bottom with rolled waterproofing material– rubber membrane or self-adhesive protective film so that it is wrapped on the wall to a height of 20 cm. Sometimes they use built-up roofing felt, there is a benefit to this, but the smell of bitumen in the bathroom will haunt you for a long time.
3. Iron the material by hand for better adhesion to the surface.

Screed and slope device

1. Mark the height of the screed on the walls according to the level, taking into account a slope of 3-4%, it should cover the drainage system;
2. If desired, fill the voids with polystyrene foam slabs; such a floor will be warmer;
3. Fill the space along the marks with a cement-sand mixture, gradually compact it, adding new portions of the mixture;
4. Level the surface with a spatula;
5. Allow the mixture to harden for 3-4 days.

Final waterproofing

Tiling

If the floor is sloping, you should first tile the walls and then the floor.

Laying tiles on the floor with a slope towards the wall is not difficult. But if the floor slopes to the center, you will have to cut the tiles at an angle or use small mosaic tiles. Fill the joints between the floor and walls with silicone sealant.

A warm floor in the shower is not a luxury item at all, but a necessity. As a rule, electric heated floors are installed. Moreover, you can do the installation yourself; it is important to prepare the necessary equipment and arm yourself with photos, videos and diagrams.

• 1 Why do you have a heated floor in the shower?
• 2 Types of heated floors
  • 2.1 Budget and economical TP
    • 2.1.1 Features
  • 2.2 Budget TP with fast heating
  • 2.3 Fast heating and easy installation
• 3 Popular myths

Why does the shower have a heated floor?

It would seem that the bathroom is a room where a “warm floor” system is not required. However, this is not entirely true. The presence of TP allows you to get rid of many pressing problems for the bathroom:

• Helps inhibit the growth and development of fungus and mold;
• Eliminates excess moisture;
• Allows you to protect against colds due to sudden exit from a hot bath into a cold room;
• Provides increased comfort while showering.

It is important to note that the TP can be installed either on the entire floor or separately in the shower area without a tray. The choice is yours.

Types of heated floors

In fact, all types of TP installed for the shower can be divided depending on what requirements the consumer places on the system:

• Financially accessible system with economical operating mode;
• Budget-friendly underfloor heating with fast heating;
• Efficient heating and easy installation systems.

So let’s consider each of the presented options separately in order to understand their features, advantages and disadvantages.

Budget and economical TP

These include systems that use single-core and double-core cable sections mounted in a screed. Compared to heating mats, costs will be 20-30 percent less.

In this case, the cable can be installed freely, regardless of the size of the room. It is easier to arrange this system for arranging individual zones than when using mats. Therefore, if you want to do TP only in the shower area, there will be no problems.

Peculiarities

1. To obtain higher power per 1 sq.m., the cable pitch should be no more than 6 centimeters. This is true for those cases when the heated floor is the only heating system.
2. You can reduce the cost of the system by purchasing cheap single-core cables.
3. It is better to lay it in a screed, as this will allow you to create an additional layer of thermal insulation under the screed. This way you will save on electricity consumption.
4. To install the cable, you need to pour a screed, the thickness of which will be about 3-5 centimeters. In this case, the floor will warm up in 90-120 minutes.
5. If thermal insulation is not planned, then it is better to use thin cables or heating mats mounted in tile adhesive. This will heat up much faster.

Budget TP with fast heating

IN in this case your choice is thin heating sections that are mounted into tile adhesive.

Laying occurs according to the same principle as in the case of laying in a screed. Only here you are already using tile adhesive. Please note, enable the layer thermal insulation material it is forbidden.

By installing such a system, you can provide floor heating in 15-20 minutes.

Fast heating and easy installation

Not everyone wants to tinker with complex systems underfloor heating, so they opt for the ones that are simplest in terms of installation.

For showers, it is important to use heating mats that are installed in tile adhesive. Compared to using a cable, working with mats is faster and easier. It is important to take into account that the cost of mats is approximately 30 percent higher than the price tags for cables. The floor heating time is about 20 minutes, or even less.

As you can see, the systems can be different, and their choice depends on the wishes and requirements of each individual consumer.

One way or another, it is possible, and sometimes even necessary, to install a heated floor for a shower. For example, in order to take care of the health of children or to increase the level of comfort of staying inside a given room.

Popular myths

As practice shows, people are afraid to use TP for bathrooms for two reasons. But both are mere fiction. And now we will explain why.

1. Electricity underfoot in a room with high humidity. Roughly speaking, a person is afraid of being shocked. There is no need to be afraid of this, since the heating cables are made with several layers of polymer insulators. Plus, they are grounded and protected by screens. In the upper layers of insulation, which is made of PVC, the coating is created in such a way that moisture does not penetrate inside. Add to this a layer of the screed itself, tile adhesive and tiles. As a result, electricity will not get anywhere near your feet. In order to finally convince yourself of the safety of the system, do not spare money on a good cable and a double screen on it.
2. High energy consumption. The second common myth is that the underfloor heating system consumes a large amount of electricity, and therefore you have to pay a lot of money for its use. But in reality, you don’t have to use a lot of energy to heat a floor laid with ceramic tiles. Due to thin layers, heating is carried out quickly. Plus, the systems are equipped with a thermostat, and all TPs have switches. That is, you turn on the heating when it is needed, then turn it off. Believe me, the numbers in receipts for electricity payments will not change after installing the “warm floor” system. But the level of comfort when taking a shower will increase significantly.

Well, a warm floor has every right to its presence even in the shower. This makes water procedures more comfortable; there is no strong temperature drop when leaving the water. Plus, TP additionally affects the preservation of an attractive interior. It’s no secret that moisture has a destructive effect on even the highest quality finishing materials, furniture and plumbing fixtures.

Of course, it is better to entrust the installation of such a system to specialists of the appropriate profile. They will select the optimal materials, calculate the necessary parameters and perform the work at the highest level.