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Putty for drywall: selection, preparation, application

Greetings, comrades! Are you interested in how and what to putty drywall? I will introduce you to my own rating of putties, with the right technology their preparation and application, with sanding and painting the putty surface. So, let's go.

How to choose

At first a few general issues and their answers:

1. Which putty is best for filling seams between sheets of drywall?

All main types of putties are fully compatible with this material:

• Cement;
• Plaster;
• Acrylic;
• Oil (on drying oil);
• Adhesive (on organic glue).

However, gypsum putty is usually used on drywall. There are several reasons:

• Low price material (from 10 rubles per kilogram of dry mixture). For comparison, ready-made acrylic putty costs 5 times more;
• Strength at the level of the gypsum plasterboard core, which greatly simplifies grinding;

If the sealing of the seams is noticeably stronger than the finishing sheets, after sanding the seams will inevitably begin to stand out on the plane of the walls or ceiling.

• The same coefficient of linear expansion when heated and the level of hygroscopicity, that of drywall. This means a minimal likelihood of cracks appearing at the seams due to fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

1. What kind of putty should I use to putty the fastening screws?

Same as seams.

However: if you need to seal several caps on a surface that has already been finished and painted white, use acrylic concrete putty, then the seal will not have to be tinted.

1. Is it possible to putty drywall immediately with finishing putty, without applying the starting putty?

It is possible and necessary. Universal or finishing. The starting one is needed to correct relatively large surface defects, but in the case of finishing with plasterboard, this function is taken over by the gypsum board sheets themselves.

1. What putty should I use for drywall in wet areas (bathroom, toilet and kitchen)?

Still the same plaster. Moisture-resistant cement or acrylic does not provide any advantages: the gypsum plasterboard itself will still remain hygroscopic, will swell and soften upon direct contact with water. Protection from moisture is provided by a fine finish.

Help: even moisture-resistant drywall does not tolerate prolonged moisture. It is called moisture resistant due to antifungal additives in the gypsum core material and the low hygroscopicity of the shell cardboard.

1. What brands should you pay attention to?

Experienced finishers can argue endlessly about which putty is better. Here is my personal rating:

Image	Name and features
	ABS Saten: viability of the finished mixture is about 45 minutes, lumps do not form when mixed correctly, dries within 12-18 hours.
	Eurogips Saten: the viability of the finished mixture is up to an hour, there are no lumps, but the seams dry for a very long time (more than a day).
	Fugen from Knauf: The putty lasts for about half an hour; when mixing, small lumps often form. But the seams dry no more than 12 hours.

How to cook

What is better to putty - we have decided. However, the result of our work will depend not only on the choice of putty, but also on its proper preparation. How to prepare finishing putty for drywall?

For mixing you will need:

• Wide capacity of 3-5 liters. I use a plastic jar of water-dispersion paint to prepare gypsum putty;

• Putty knife 10-12 cm wide.

The volume of a single portion of drywall putty is no more than three liters. If you prepare too large a portion, you simply won’t have time to process the material before it sets.

Mixing looks like this: you pour water into a container at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry gypsum mixture, and then fill in the putty, distributing it as evenly as possible over the surface of the water surface. After a pause of 3-5 minutes, when the plaster is saturated with water and swells, the mixture is thoroughly mixed.

As is customary, there are several very important subtleties that greatly influence the result:

• Never pour water into dry plaster mixture. The instructions are due to the fact that in this case you will get dry lumps at the bottom that cannot be broken up with the most thorough mixing;

• Before preparing a new batch of putty wash the dishes and all the tools. Otherwise, the seized lumps from the previous portion will, falling under the spatula, leave grooves on the finish and force you to apply an additional layer;
• Don't be lazy to measure the right amount of water and mixture. When cooking by eye, you risk getting a mixture that is too dry or too runny. In the first case, the result will be rapid setting and lumps, in the second, all the putty will drain from the spatula.

How to apply

Tool

How to putty drywall using a tool?

You will need:

• Steel spatula 10-12 cm wide (yes, the same one you used to mix the putty). You will use it to fill seams and recesses from fasteners;
• Steel spatula 30-35 cm wide for applying a covering layer that hides the reinforcement of the seams. You will also have to use it if you need finishing putty of drywall over the entire surface;

• Stationery knife for sewing seams;
• Scissors for cutting serpyanka (reinforcing fiberglass mesh).

Preparation of seams

It consists of three stages:

Image	Operation description
	Joining: the edges of adjacent sheets, cut in place, are chamfered to half the thickness at an angle of 45 degrees. Jointing will allow you to fill the seam with putty on maximum depth, thereby making it stronger and reducing the likelihood of cracks. Jointing is not required for factory edges of the PLUK type (semicircular with the sheet thinning towards the edge).
	Padding penetrating primer. It will glue the remaining dust, improving the adhesion of the putty. It is not necessary to prime the seams, but it is advisable.
	Reinforcement: a self-adhesive sickle tape cut in place is glued along the seam. Thanks to the relatively large cell, it does not interfere with filling the seam.

Puttying

How to seal seams with your own hands?

• First pass: Fill the seam through the serpentine using a narrow spatula. It is better to use oblique, crosswise movements rather than longitudinal ones: in this case, it is guaranteed that there will be no cavities left near the edges;
• Second pass: Apply the putty with a narrow spatula onto a wide one and cover the seam with sliding longitudinal movements. The texture of the serpyanka should be completely hidden, while the height of the seam relative to the surface of the sheet should remain minimal.

How to fill in depressions from self-tapping screws? Each hole is filled with two sliding movements of a narrow spatula in a crisscross manner. After the putty has dried (in small holes it dries in a couple of hours), the sealing will have to be repeated: the gypsum gives a small, but still noticeable shrinkage.

How to apply finishing putty on drywall if you need to cover the entire surface of the sheet (for example, so that the seams do not stand out)?

The technique is the same as when applying the second layer along the seam: the mixture is applied with a wide spatula to a narrow one and applied with sliding movements in a layer about a millimeter thick. In this case, the putty consumption per 1 m2 will be equal to one kilogram of dry mixture.

It’s easier not to try to get a uniform coating of constant thickness in one pass, but to successively apply two as thin layers as possible. During the second pass, the movements of the spatula change to perpendicular: this way there is less chance of leaving grooves and irregularities.

Grinding

How to rub putty on drywall? But nothing. Gypsum finishing materials are not rubbed down, but are sanded after complete drying: if you try to grout a wet coating, you are guaranteed to ruin its surface.

For sanding I use an oscillating sander; You can just as easily use a hand grater. Sanding is not done with sandpaper, but with grids: No. 80 for the first pass and No. 100 for the second.

A few subtleties:

• Turn off and cover the entire consumer electronics. When sanding, dust will literally be everywhere;
• Do not neglect a respirator or gauze bandage and goggles;

• Sand under bright, oblique light. It won't let you miss any bumps.

Painting

Which paint to choose for gypsum boards? I like any water-dispersed one. Personally, I use latex, acrylic and rubber paints. The latter was used to protect against dampness in the bathroom: it is absolutely waterproof.

On the picture - plasterboard walls and the ceiling of the combined bathroom in my attic. To protect against dampness, they are painted with a “rubber” water-based emulsion.

The paint is applied in 3-4 layers. They are applied perpendicular to each other at least 2 weeks after filling. Hurry - get translucent seams.

Conclusion

GCR is now widespread due to its characteristics - light weight, environmental friendliness, ease of installation. This perfect way quickly and easily level walls, ceilings, install interior partitions, niches, arches, multi-level and others complex designs. Installation of sheets is only part of the job; it is important to process them correctly before finishing.

Do I need to putty drywall?

GCR is two sheets of cardboard and a hardened gypsum mixture that holds them together. The material has a perfectly flat surface, which is perfect for all common types of cladding:

• wallpaper – paper, vinyl, non-woven;
• paint - usually water-based, but oil-based too;
• ceramic tiles;
• PVC plates.

Plasterboard putty is necessary for another purpose - to prepare the sheet joints and corners. Over time, the walls may shrink, parts of the material will move relative to each other, which can lead to a violation of the integrity of the finishing cladding. To do this, they must be fixed using special materials and devices. It is also necessary to putty the gypsum board so that its surface, which is afraid of water, does not absorb moisture from adhesive compositions or paint.

Selecting putty – cement, latex or gypsum?

The first step of the preparation process is choosing a putty mixture. Construction stores offer several basic options:

• cement;
• plaster;
• polymer (latex);
• universal;
• specialized.

Sometimes sold compounds are marked with a special mark - “for drywall”, but for optimal choice It is better to buy the material based on its composition. Cement putty is intended for external work on the facade of a building, so it is not suitable for our case. The cement mortar is not subject to grinding, which we will need in the future. Pay attention to the other types - they differ slightly in price and are all suitable for processing gypsum boards. The cheapest is gypsum. It is used for:

• sealing seams between sheets;
• correction of irregularities and defects in the sheet area;
• masking screw heads;
• processing corners and curves, arches.

Gypsum putty mixtures are available in powder form. The dilution principle may differ slightly depending on the brand - read the instructions carefully. The material is mixed with water in certain proportions. Gypsum sets, hardens and dries quickly, so you need to use the entire mixture that you prepare for work - do not dilute too much. For one square meter you will spend approximately 200-300 grams of powder. Consumption will depend on what the finishing cladding will be. For wallpaper and tiles, you will only need to cover the seams and corners; for painting, you will need to cover the entire area of ​​the wall.

Advantages of gypsum-based putty:

• low cost;
• natural safe material;
• does not shrink;
• dries quickly;
• easy to level due to finely dispersed composition;
• diluted with ordinary water.

Flaws:

• low water resistance;
• may crack due to changes in humidity - not suitable for rooms where the air is highly humidified.

The best option for using gypsum is gypsum board. For finishing treatment, experts advise purchasing a polymer-based putty composition - in any case, the decision will be yours, because Only you control the budget for the upcoming renovation. Polymer option Available in the form of a ready-made mixture or powder. If you are performing this procedure for the first time, use the powder type, because... this will make it possible to use only the part that you have time to apply to the wall. An open jar of ready-made material will need to be used up within a day, otherwise it may dry out.

Advantages of polymer putty:

• suitable for any type of premises, because not afraid of moisture;
• does not shrink;
• makes it possible to create the smoothest surface;
• low consumption per square meter.

The only disadvantage of building materials is the high price. Polymer will be mandatory for treating walls for painting. If you then putty the walls under wallpaper or tiles and want to save money, then you can choose plaster. Universal type suitable for all occasions. It is the most expensive and makes it possible to do without such auxiliary devices as a serpyanka. It makes sense to choose it if there are numerous or large damages on the plasterboard walls. The universal product is ideal for covering large chips, scratches, fastening points and joints between gypsum boards and concrete.

We increase the service life of wallpaper or paint - add a primer

In order for the cladding to adhere perfectly to the puttied surface of the drywall, be sure to purchase a primer - it will need to be applied on top. Soil performs several important functions:

• protects against mold and mildew;
• creates an ideal surface for adhesion to glue or paint;
• The smooth coating created by the primer makes it easy to apply other materials.

When choosing from the large number of primer solutions available, choose the acrylic type. It has universal properties and is suitable for different surfaces, including those coated with putty. The peculiarity of the material is its penetration into the depth of the substrate by a centimeter. The primer is available in the form of a ready-made liquid mixture in small plastic canisters. Its approximate consumption per square meter will be 150 grams of liquid.

The following data will help determine the exact amount of soil consumption and drying time of different brands:

Preparing for work - don't miss important things

To prepare the gypsum board for finishing cladding, you will need a set of tools: a spatula - wide (30 cm) and narrow (15 cm); primer tray; container for putty (if you use the composition in powder); wide paint brush or soft roller; electric drill and mixer attachment; sandpaper or abrasive mesh, attachment for their use.

List of materials:

• putty - rough and finishing;
• tap water;
• primer;
• fiberglass tape;
• aluminum profile for strengthening corners - perforated corner.

The first step is to inspect and prepare the dry surface of the walls. GKL are attached to a wooden or metal sheathing using self-tapping screws - look for any protruding caps. If there are any, screw them into the cardboard to a depth of one millimeter. The protrusions can be checked quickly by running a spatula along the line of screws - if it clings to the protruding heads, stop and “sink” the parts into the wall using a suitable screwdriver or screwdriver. Carefully check for cracks in the places where the screws are screwed in. If there are any, twist them three to five centimeters side by side.

If there are peeling pieces of cardboard (most often this happens on cut edges), carefully remove them with a construction knife. Go over the entire wall with a broom to remove construction debris. GKL sheets on the edges have a factory edge in the form of cuts - make the same ones using a knife in the places along which the material was cut. Simply cut the edges at a 45 degree angle. This is done for better penetration soil. The next step is to coat the wall with a primer - carefully moisten the entire surface using a roller well soaked in the liquid composition, paying special attention to the joints.

The surface is primed and dried - now we mix the rough putty solution with our own hands. The dry mixture is diluted in water strictly according to the instructions. Any putty material “ripens” during the dilution process: after first mixing with water, wait about ten minutes, then, if necessary, add the powder again and wait the same amount. The finished mixture should be similar to thick sour cream - so that it does not flow down the surface during application and is not too thick, otherwise it will not be possible to apply it in a thin layer. Mix the putty in a round container - they are more convenient than square ones, because... Pieces of dry mixture remain in the corners. Use a construction mixer to quickly get a homogeneous mixture - make sure there are no lumps left.

Applying putty - description step by step

We proceed to the rough finishing, which consists of processing the seams. First, using a narrow spatula, coat the joints of the sheets with putty, glue the reinforcing sickle onto the wet material, smooth it out and press it in using the same spatula. Immediately make another pass with putty over the mesh to completely cover it. Carefully remove excess with a spatula. The next layer is applied to the corners - perforated aluminum corners are placed on it. Press them into the material so that it fills all the holes, level the surface. Reinforcement is necessary so that corner areas acquire strength, rigidity, and resistance to mechanical damage. If the corner is touched during operation, this will protect it from destruction.

For arches and complex lines, use, which easily changes shape. First, attach it to the wall with a construction stapler and apply a layer of putty on top. Fill all potholes, scratches, and chips with putty. Leave the room to dry for several hours, ideally for a day. After the applied material becomes completely light, apply a second layer to the corner areas, aligning them with the main surface of the wall. Inspect the entire area again - if you missed any damage, cover it.

After drying again, sand down all roughness and unevenness using an attachment with sandpaper or mesh. At this stage, put on a respirator, because... Dust will form in the air. Sweep it off the walls with a broom. The next step will be either a complete clean putty of the entire surface, or covering it with a primer - this depends on the budget for repairs and the goals that you are pursuing. If you want to save money, you can skip the full putty stage - but not for painting. If you are going to paint, be sure to putty the entire wall.

Under the wallpaper is a question the solution of which is left to your discretion. Ideally, yes, because... This will help make the process of re-pasting with new, fresh wallpaper material easier in the future. If you paste wallpaper directly onto the gypsum board, it will be impossible to remove it, because... they will adhere tightly to the cardboard covering. Thin paper wallpaper will show all the imperfections on the wall - seams and corners will look sloppy.

Therefore, if funds allow, perform finishing putty. The process is carried out using a wide spatula - apply a thin layer of polymer or gypsum putty and leave to dry. Check the wall - if there are any uneven spots, sand them down with sandpaper. Use a flashlight or a lamp on a carrying case - highlighting it makes it easier to see areas that require treatment. The smoother the surface, the better the paint, wallpaper, and tiles will adhere to it. Remove the layer of dust with a broom.

The final stage is another layer of primer. It will help reduce the consumption of adhesive materials, because... will prevent the wall from picking up moisture from the material, making it easier to apply, and improving the quality of adhesion. Don't neglect this step - it's better to spend a little on the primer than to restore the cladding later. Need to save time? After processing the seams and corners, prepare a mixture consisting of water, where the first two are taken in equal parts. Apply it to the wall with a soft roller - the ideal base for wallpaper will be ready in 12 hours. If you are working with a gypsum board ceiling, make the job easier - take a roller on a long rod.

If the walls can be completely puttied with gypsum, then in the case of the ceiling it is recommended to use polymer material with good elasticity. Another nuance - heavy vinyl wallpaper will adhere better to a plaster base. Flaws on the wall will be best visible when painted - in this case, prepare the wall especially carefully.

Are you working on a bathroom or toilet and need to save money? For rooms with high humidity, instead of polymer putty, it is allowed to use cement putty, because it resists water well. Its disadvantage is that it can shrink over time and is not at all plastic. The conclusion is simple - the final quality directly depends on the money and time spent. Do not forget about the expiration date and integrity of the packaging - pay attention to this during purchase. Strict adherence to the technology and instructions in the instructions will lead to pleasant moments in the future - you will enjoy the updated look of your home for a long time.

When installation work begins using drywall, you need to take care of the strength of the structure. Why are seams reinforced? What putty is used for reinforcement with sickle tape?

Before you purchase the right material, you should familiarize yourself with its characteristics. Puttying the joints of a plasterboard structure is important point, on which strength depends created surface, structural rigidity, prevention of deformation and cracks. Let's consider what kind of putty is needed for drywall joints (gypsum plasterboard)? If there are several main types of material produced by different manufacturers. Each mixture has its own distinctive properties.

Properly puttied drywall joint

Nuances at work

Tools. Materials for sealing gypsum board joints

To seal plasterboard joints, you need a set of tools, as well as some materials, without which the work will not be practical or of high quality.

With this set of tools, as well as the materials necessary for the work, the reinforcement of joints will take place without taking much time, and the high quality that is necessary for the long service life of the plasterboard surface will be achieved.

Preparatory work with joints

In order to begin, you should carefully prepare all the seams on the plasterboard surface.

The first step is to check the strength of the structure and the location of the fasteners. The screw heads must be recessed into the drywall, and the sheet itself must be firmly fixed to the frame.

There should be no peeled cardboard at the joints. If there are plaster stones, as well as protruding paper, you need to carefully remove everything with a construction knife so that the joint has evenness and integrity.

If the plasterboard sheets adjacent to each other do not have a special recess, it must be made with a knife at 45 degrees. Chamfer depth up to 5mm. This will make the seam strong and the structure rigid. All dust from drywall seams is quickly removed using a vacuum cleaner. Sheets and joints are covered.

Sealing drywall seams with paper tape or fiberglass and putty is done only after preparatory work has been carried out.

Manufacturer Knauf technology for processing seams

Processing of seams begins when the temperature and humidity conditions have been established in the room.
The room temperature should not be lower than +10 °C and should remain stable
within two days after treatment. Sudden heating and cooling of the room, drafts
during and after processing of seams are unacceptable.
Before processing the seams, it is necessary to check the reliability of fastening of gypsum building boards
or gypsum fiber sheets. Tighten the protruding screw heads.
Work that leads to an increase in humidity in the premises must be completed, since moisture prevents drying and deforms the seams.

Processing the seams of gypsum building boards using reinforcing tape and
putty mixture KNAUF-Fugen or KNAUF-Uniflot
Joints of gypsum building boards with all types of longitudinal edges are puttied using reinforcing tape and KNAUF-Fugen or KNAUF-Uniflot putty mixture.
Joints of gypsum building boards formed by cut longitudinal or end
(not covered with cardboard) the edges are also puttied using reinforcing tape and putty mixture KNAUF-Fugen or KNAUF-Uniflot. To do this, before installation it is necessary
gypsum building boards, chamfer the cut edge using an edge plane
at an angle of 22.5° by 2/3 of the sheet thickness.
GSP type H2 and GSP type DFH2 are used for processing joints of gypsum building boards
putty mixture KNAUF-Fugen Hydro or KNAUF-Uniflot (moisture resistant).
Perforated paper tape is used as a reinforcing tape.
When covering a frame with two layers, the joints of the sheets of the first layer are puttied without reinforcing tape.

The sequence of actions when processing the joint of gypsum building boards formed by the longitudinal uncut edges of gypsum building boards:
removing dust from the joint;
applying the first layer of putty and pressing the reinforcing tape into it with a spatula
in the center of the joint;
applying a top coat of putty to the dried first layer;
applying a leveling layer of putty to the hardened and dry covering layer.

The sequence of actions when processing the joint of gypsum building boards formed
cut edges of gypsum building boards chamfered at 22.5° to 2/3 of the thickness
sheet:
removing dust from the joint (to improve the adhesion of the putty to the gypsum core, it is recommended to treat the cut edges with KNAUF-Tiefengrund primer);
applying the first layer of putty, pressing the material into the joint with a spatula and removing excess
putties from the surface of gypsum building boards;
applying a covering layer of putty to the hardened and dry first layer and pressing the reinforcing tape into it with a spatula in the center of the joint;
applying leveling layers of putty after the reinforcing tape has set
with the seam surface.

The installation sites for fasteners must also be puttied. After drying
putty, remove any unevenness found using a grinding device.

Now you can decide on a manufacturer that produces a special putty for reinforcement.

Types of putty

Manufacturers from different countries offer different mixtures for drywall joints. They are different in technical specifications, differ in their characteristics. What is the best way to seal drywall seams?

Knauf Uniflot putty for seams

Knauf Uniflot is a universal putty. The mixture is suitable for regular and moisture-resistant drywall. The mixture can be used in rooms with normal and high humidity. However, it is not advisable to create a continuous layer of putty on walls or ceilings.

Distinctive advantages:

1. Strength. Putty for drywall joints is comparable to cement.
2. Uniflot is a lightweight plaster, which makes it possible to use it not only on plasterboard sheets thickness 12.5, and 9.5.
3. This the mixture can be used to seal joints without reinforced tape. This reduces work time while maintaining high quality.
4. After the time during which Uniflot dries, the putty does not allow or absorb water, which is a distinctive property.
5. Due to the plasticity of the putty, the seam does not crack. If the plasterboard surface is made heavier, it does not deform due to the created seam.
6. If the seam has a gap of 2 mm, then there is no shrinkage of the solution. At a greater distance, Uniflot should be applied to the joint twice.

Application of putty

Putty for sealing drywall joints is available in the form of a powder that has a distinctive shade. The solution is prepared in small batches, at a temperature range from +10 to +35 degrees. The finished solution should be applied to the seam without waiting for 25 minutes, after which it begins to harden.

To achieve a more durable seam on a plasterboard surface, you can use Knauf. This is mainly done in places where the plasterboard structure will be weighed down by an interior item (TV, water heater).

KNAUF Fugen

How to putty drywall seams?

Fugen putty is made on the basis of gypsum and is intended for indoor use. With the help of special additives, putty can create a barrier to moisture. Used for reinforcing plasterboard joints using reinforcing tape.

Distinctive features:

1. Fugen has a fine-grained composition.
2. The minimum layer of applied putty is 1mm, the maximum layer is 10mm.
3. The minimum temperature at which you can work with putty is +10 degrees.
4. The entire solution should be used up within 30 minutes. After time has passed, the solution begins to thicken.
5. Knauf Fugen shelf life is 6 months. After time has passed, the mixture loses its elastic properties.

Reinforcement of joints is done with Knauf reinforcing tape, applying 2 layers of putty.

Application of putty.

Application has a wide scope. It is used to reinforce joints in concrete floor. Fills the seams of plasterboard construction. This is perhaps the most inexpensive and popular option with which you can get rid of problems that have arisen.

Fugen is used when installing paint corners. It is also used as glue when leveling walls with plasterboard sheets.

Semin CE-78 putty for sealing gypsum board joints

How to seal seams between drywall?

Semin is a fine-grained putty that allows work to be carried out at low temperatures from +5 to +10 and above and high humidity. The main difference from other mixtures is the rapid setting, which reduces the time for reinforcement.

Putty is available in dry form and paste.

To reinforce the drywall seam, use reinforcing tape. The putty is applied in 2 layers. After applying the first seam, you should fix the tape without waiting for it to dry. After which a second layer of putty should be applied.

After drying, it is necessary to clean it with sandpaper.

Finishing polymer putty JS weber vetonit

Polymer-based putty is applicable both for reinforcing joints with reinforcing tape, and for continuous puttying of walls and ceilings with your own hands.

It has versatility, excellent adhesive properties, and prevents the appearance of cracks. The putty contains ground marble, which gives the advantage of applying finishing material immediately after putty: painting, wallpaper.

Distinctive feature: after mixing the solution, the time to work with it is 48 hours. But, when applied to the surface with a layer of 1 mm. it takes 3 hours.

The negative property of putty is that it is not moisture resistant, so it cannot be used in rooms with high humidity.

GKL and GVL sheets are a truly universal material with which you can level the surface, install a suspended ceiling, erect a partition, build a cabinet or arch - you just need to master all the intricacies of working with this material. It is very important to carry out the installation without errors, but the finishing putty of the drywall must also be done correctly.
Violation of technology can negate all the work, especially when the interior is to be painted. So, before you get started, watch the video in this article.

The preparation of the surface covered with plasterboard is carried out in accordance with the selected decorative finishing option. If you plan to use wallpaper, then putty on drywall may look like what is shown in the photo above - that is, only the joints between the sheets are sealed.
So:

• In order to perform coloring, such preparation is not enough. The surface of walls or ceilings must be plastered over the entire area - otherwise, the joints will stand out in relief. Doing the first preparation option yourself is much easier and more economical financially.
• Just keep in mind that changing the wallpaper in this case will be problematic. If the entire surface of the walls was not puttied before gluing, when removing the roll covering, the cardboard shell of the drywall will certainly be damaged - it will come off in pieces along with the wallpaper. So, if you don’t want to putty right away, you’ll have to do it later, or even completely, you’ll have to change the sheathing.

Putty for drywall

To putty the surface covered with gypsum board sheets, use gypsum-based mixtures intended for finishing interiors. The components in such compositions have the finest dispersion, are able to fill even the smallest pores, and make it possible to obtain the smoothest possible surface.
So:

• There are ready-to-use putties on sale, which are sold in plastic jars and buckets - you open the container and go to work. For large volumes of work, it is much easier to use a dry composition and mix small portions of the solution directly on site. The amount of liquid per 1 kg of mixture is regulated by the manufacturer's instructions.

• The consumption of putty per 1 m2 of drywall does not depend on which option you used: ready-made or dry. Simply, the cost of a finished product is always higher than a semi-finished product, and when finishing large areas the difference can be significant. When buying material, ask how much both options cost.
• Also, pay attention to universal mixtures. They contain polymer resins and other additives that improve their properties.
  Such putties are super elastic and can be used for both facade and interior work. They can be applied to almost any substrate – this is precisely their advantage over conventional compounds.

• On the bag with such a mixture, it will be indicated: “universal putty.” And don’t be confused by the slightly higher price: 225 rubles. for a bag weighing 10 kg - versus 180 rubles. for the same regular packaging gypsum plaster.
  The difference is fully compensated by the efficiency of this material. For example, if the consumption of putty on drywall per 1 m2 when sealing joints is 300 g, then for a universal mixture this figure does not exceed 250 g.
• In addition, universal putty has higher strength, which makes it possible to use these compounds as glue when installing gypsum boards using a frameless method. It is also great for sealing damaged sheets. This happens quite often during editing, and here is a suitable picture to confirm these words.

When choosing a finishing plaster for gypsum boards, you need to think about how to treat the drywall before puttingtying. It is best if both the putty composition and the primer (see Primer before puttying walls - is it needed) are from the same manufacturer.
Identical components in their compositions guarantee their compatibility and high-quality adhesion. In any case, the primer container must indicate that it is intended for gypsum surfaces.

Preparing gypsum boards for finishing

After the installation of drywall is completed, its surface must be cleaned of dust, but without moisture. After which the entire surface should be primed using a roller, brush, or spray.
In this case, special attention should be paid to the joints and places where the sheets are attached:

• While the primer dries, prepare the solution, unless, of course, you prefer a ready-made option. To avoid lumps getting into the mixture, which happens quite often, it is advisable to sift the dry component through a sieve. It is poured into a plastic or enamel container with cold and clean water.

• The ratio of ingredients may vary, but approximately 2 liters of water per 2.5 kg of mixture. After adding the dry component, you need to wait a few minutes for it to moisten, after which you can start stirring with a trowel, or even better, with a mixer.
• The tools and mortar container must be clean, otherwise the mixture will harden faster than expected. The consistency of the solution should be such that the putty spreads on the drywall like soft butter on bread. It is very important not to add any additives to the solution that are not specified in the manufacturer’s instructions.

You should also not try to revive the hardening solution by adding water to it - this will not work. Just try to mix a portion that you can process in 30 minutes. After this time, almost all putties begin to set.

Joints between sheets

When performing work related to various screeds, the air temperature in the room must be at least ten degrees plus. If finishing work is carried out in winter, in a newly built unheated house, the room in which you will putty the walls and ceilings must be insulated from drafts.
You can ensure the required temperature using a heater:

• Even if puttying is carried out over the entire area, you need to start with sealing the joints. To do this you will need sickle tape and two types of spatulas. Take one steel tool, 150 mm wide. The second spatula should be wide and rubber - without it it is difficult to seal the internal corners.

• As for the external corners, to form them you need to use a perforated plaster corner. In addition to the fact that you will get a corner with clear geometry, it will also be reliably protected from damage.
  Such a corner may be needed when puttingtying plasterboard partitions, multi-level ceilings, and other volumetric structures.
• Thanks to the beveled edges, grooves are formed between the sheets of plasterboard, the walls of which widen upward - these need to be sealed. But first, you need to check the quality of fastening of the sheets. The heads of the screws must be flush with the surface of the gypsum board.

• The self-tapping screw that sticks out must be carefully tightened. If the fastener is excessively recessed into the thickness of the sheet, it should be unscrewed and, stepping back a few centimeters, a new fastening should be made. This is important, since if the indicated installation defects are present, it will be impossible to make the joint invisible.
• Their sealing has the following sequence: first, the seam is filled only halfway, after which, without waiting for the putty to set, it is glued with reinforcing tape. The serpyanka can be paper or fiberglass - it is simply pressed into the uncured mixture with a spatula.

When gluing, the tape must be carefully smoothed to prevent the formation of bulges and folds. After this, the putty must be given time to harden, and only after that can you begin to apply the top, leveling layer.
It is designed to level the joint surface with the surface of the drywall. After drying, all that remains is to sand it with a fine mesh or sandpaper.

Puttying over the entire area

If a surface covered with plasterboard is being prepared for painting, you will not be able to limit yourself to just sealing the joints - you need to putty over the entire area.
To do this, it is most convenient to use a rubber spatula, which was mentioned above:

• You can begin making a continuous screed after the joints have been glued with sickle tape and the mortar in them has hardened. That is, the leveling layer on the joints is applied simultaneously with puttying of the drywall itself. By the way, it is also puttied in two stages: first the base layer, then the covering layer.

• When preparing drywall for high-quality painting, the number of layers of putty may be greater, since it is not always possible to mask all errors with two layers of screed. They are immediately visible on a painted surface, especially if the paint is glossy.
• But you just need to keep in mind that the finished layer must dry completely before a new one is applied. The thickness of one layer should not exceed 1 mm. It makes no sense to describe the process of working with a spatula; it is much easier to watch the video once and practice a little on an unnecessary piece of drywall.
• There is no need for priming between layers of screed, since the same composition is used for their application, with the same dispersion. But after the finishing layer has hardened, primer treatment is required. Before doing this, you need to sand the entire putty surface and remove dust with a vacuum cleaner.

Once the primer has dried, you can begin painting. And if all the work was carried out without errors, and only high-quality materials were used, interior decoration with plasterboard structures cannot but please you.

Nowadays, leveling walls and ceilings with plasterboard is one of the most popular technologies for repair and finishing. The gypsum plasterboard sheets themselves, their components for creating a frame or materials for frameless installation - all of them are not very expensive, the procedure for working with them is simple and can be quickly mastered even by novice craftsmen, and the leveling process itself, compared to the same plastering, takes much less time and does not require highly qualified performers.

The result is a flat surface or ceiling, almost ready for further finishing operations. However, the word “almost” is used here for a reason - in order for the finish to look truly high-quality, there is still work to be done on the surfaces. This publication will discuss how to putty drywall for painting - why it is required, what materials are recommended to be used, and the basic technological techniques for performing this important stage.

But first, you need to understand the question - is it really necessary to putty plasterboard surfaces just before painting?

What is the point of filling drywall before painting?

To a person who is taking on such finishing for the first time, it may seem unclear - “why do I still need to putty drywall if I’ve already paid money to get a flat surface?” There are several answers to this question. Moreover, some reasons “lie on the surface,” that is, quite obvious, while others have to be encountered during further finishing.

• It is almost impossible to perform plasterboard cladding (except for some completely miniature structures) with one sheet. This means that it is assumed that there will be joints on which there will be either a factory chamfer (sheets with a UK, PLC, PLUK edge) or one cut independently during the installation of the coating.

This directly indicates the need to perform putty work to bring the surface to perfect evenness.

• It is not enough to simply fill the seams between sheets of drywall with putty. To avoid the appearance of cracks along the joint line, it is necessary to perform reinforcement, which should be covered on top with an even layer of leveling compound.
• When installed on frame structure metal screws are used. Their caps must be recessed into the thickness of the material, and the resulting holes must be puttied.

This ensures the evenness of the surface and creates a protective layer that will not allow it to bleed through the finish. rusty spots due to corrosion of metal caps.

These were the obvious reasons, but now let's look at the less noticeable ones.

Prices for putty

putty

• Most often, when carrying out repairs, budget options for drywall are used. And the perfect smoothness of their surface can be deceptive. Small irregularities, invisible to the naked eye, and wavy level changes, literally a fraction of a millimeter, cannot be ruled out, but which then very well appear in the light after painting. Puttying allows you to bring the surface to almost perfection.
• Even if you purchased the highest quality material, in which the presence of manufacturing defects is practically eliminated, there remains the possibility of leaving scratches, dents and other damage on the surface resulting from transporting the drywall, lifting it to the floor or bringing it into the house during installation work. All these little things, if not puttied, can also appear immediately after applying the paint.
• Drywall is usually painted with water-based compounds. And the cardboard surface is capable of actively absorbing moisture, penetrating into the layer of gypsum located underneath it, which sometimes ends with its swelling and the appearance of unevenness.

• on the puttyed and left “bare” cardboard areas of the surface, the surface will be absorbed and dry unevenly, which will appear as unevenness and spots.
• As a consequence of the above reason, in order to achieve completely uniform painting of the wall, you will have to apply more layers, that is, paint consumption increases.

So, what conclusions do we come to:

A. If the renovation is carried out in the “front” room, where the quality and presentability of the finish comes to the fore, then it is better not to neglect completely filling the plasterboard surfaces. A similar approach would be a reasonable solution even if the quality of the drywall itself raises even slight doubts, or if expensive paints and varnishes are used for painting, the consumption of which should be minimized.

B. In the case where the quality of the drywall is guaranteed to be high, and no serious damage was caused during transportation and installation, you can limit yourself to only filling and reinforcing the seams, internal and external corners, sealing holes from self-tapping screws and minor identified defects. In addition, you can limit yourself to the amount of preparatory work when painting will be done with thick textured paints - such a finish can in itself completely mask minor defects and uneven surfaces.

We will not consider the installation of drywall itself in this publication - there is enough information on this issue on our portal.

Using plasterboard for interior decoration

The wide popularity of drywall is due not only to the ease of working with it, but also to its extreme versatility. On the pages of our portal you can read article-instructions on, on remodeling rooms with installation from this material, on installation, including -.

But with almost any use of drywall, it will not be possible to avoid puttingtying it to one extent or another.

Materials and tools for filling plasterboard surfaces

The putties presented in the assortment of construction stores differ in many criteria, and their wide variety is quite capable of confusing a novice craftsman.

Drywall prices

drywall

• Based on the base material, putties can be divided into three groups:

— Cement based: have good resistance to high humidity, therefore they are more suitable for appropriate rooms - kitchens, bathrooms, toilets. They are rarely used to prepare walls for painting in ordinary rooms, since they give maximum shrinkage and have a too long period of complete hardening.

— Based on gypsum – the most common group. Excellent adhesion to drywall, versatility of use, fast setting, ease of processing - final grouting and sanding of surfaces. Disadvantage - they do not like high humidity.

- On a polymer (acrylic) basis - it’s difficult to find disadvantages, since such compositions combine all the best qualities of others. The only conditional “minus” is the rather high price.

• According to their intended purpose, such compositions are:

— Starting or leveling. When applied to plasterboard surfaces, where no special leveling is required, such putties are used only for sealing seams, and require the mandatory application of finishing compounds on top.

— Finish or front - have a finely dispersed filler structure, which allows you to create perfectly smooth surfaces. The main material for filling plasterboard walls and.

— Universal – successfully used at any stage of the finishing process. True, at the expense of a higher price.

• According to the degree of readiness for work, putties can be divided into:

— Dry building mixtures that require dilution with water and bringing to the required homogeneity and consistency. The main disadvantage is that the process of preparing them must be carried out with maximum care and in compliance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, using only clean containers. Inexperienced craftsmen sometimes do not immediately manage to get rid of small unmixed fragments and achieve the correct consistency, which then affects the quality of work finishing works. The putty must be prepared in small portions, with guaranteed use within half an hour, since it begins to set quite quickly and soon becomes completely unusable.

— Ready-made paste-like compositions that go on sale in hermetically sealed buckets are much more convenient to work with, since they already have the necessary consistency, and in a closed container their lifespan is disproportionately longer. The best option, if, of course, the master is satisfied with the rather high price for such compositions.

The table below shows several types of putties widely used by finishers for filling plasterboard surfaces. The criterion for choosing these particular brands from the entire available variety is simple - the frequency of their use by experienced craftsmen who share their recommendations and technological techniques on the Internet.

Name of composition, illustration	Brief description of the composition	Approximate price level
"Knauf multi-finish"(white)	Universal putty is a dry construction mixture based on white cement, recommended for use in rooms with significantly high humidity. Suitable for sealing seams and other defects, for a leveling finishing layer with a thickness of at least 1 mm. In residential premises, use is inappropriate. The period of complete hardening reaches 24 hours. Packaging: 25 kg bags.	400 rub.
"Knauf Fugen"	A high-quality material that can be considered universal - suitable for both sealing seams and finishing putty. Affordable price and declared strength are considered advantages of this composition. However, despite its wide popularity, there are many complaints about it. The material is not bad for sealing and reinforcing gypsum plasterboard joints, but it is inferior to some other types; the strength may not be enough - the appearance of cracks is not excluded. Excessively fast setting makes it difficult to work, especially for beginners. The grayish color of the mixture causes spotting on the treated wall, which will require additional paint consumption. And finally, after complete hardening, the putty is extremely reluctant to be finished sanded. Many masters refuse to use it in favor of other compositions. Packaged in bags of 5, 10 and 25 kg.	For a bag of 25 kg - 360÷390 rub.
"Knauf Uniflott"	A dry gypsum-based building mixture, specially designed for sealing joints on plasterboard surfaces, and in this area of ​​application it has no equal in strength characteristics. Application thickness – up to 5 mm. Does not shrink. The lifespan of the finished solution is up to 30 minutes. Convenient packaging - bags of 5 and 25 kg. The main drawback is the rather high price, which stands out sharply from the general background.	For a 5 kg bag – 325 rubles, 25 kg -1490 rub.
"Bolars polymer finishing"	Dry polymer-based building mixture intended for finishing leveling of indoor walls. Non-shrinking, creates a perfectly flat and smooth surface of snow-white color. Can be applied in a layer of 0.2 to 2.0 mm. A long “lifespan” will give a novice finisher the opportunity to correct mistakes. Packing – bags of 20 kg. Economical in use and very attractive price.	400 rub.
"Prospectors Finish"	One of the most budget-friendly, but with quite good quality options. Dry gypsum-based building mixture in 20 kg packaging. The “lifetime” of the prepared solution is quite long, about an hour, but at the same time, after 3 hours the surface is ready for grinding. Application thickness – from 0.3 to 5.0 mm. Designed for rooms with normal humidity.	320 rub.
Sheetrock SuperFinish	One of the most popular ready-to-use putties. Paste-like composition on a polymer base with mineral filling (marble dust with a fraction of no more than 25 microns). Excellent adhesion, plasticity, ease of application and distribution in a thin layer. Suitable for filling joints and finishing surfaces. Quick readiness for work - just mix the composition thoroughly before use. After initial use, it can be stored in a closed container and used as needed for a year. Packaging – plastic buckets of 3.5 liters (5.6 kg), 11 liters (18 kg) and 17 liters (28 kg).	Bucket 3.5 l. – 350 rub. 11 l. – 770 rub. 17 l. – 1180 rub.

Materials for reinforcing seams and corners

Not so long ago, when asked what the seams between sheets of drywall are reinforced with, the overwhelming number of people would answer – fiberglass. But today it is no longer considered as optimal option, and quite rightly so.

Try a little experiment. Take such a mesh tape and try to stretch it to the sides with your fingers, perpendicular to the axis. Alas, the mesh stretches, and if it is not the highest quality sample, it can even unravel into separate threads. The effect will be even more obvious if a tensile force is applied diagonally - square cells easily turn into elongated diamond-shaped ones, waves and folds form in the center, and the geometry of the segment is completely disrupted.

Now try repeating the same steps with a strip of paper of the same size. Is it true? – a completely different picture? And this despite the fact that the paper itself can be much thinner than the mesh threads.

Manufacturers of drywall and compounds for its putty directly recommend using paper strips for reinforcing seams, and provide for the production of material well adapted for such use. Moreover, this is not an innovation at all, but rather a return to the old, “classical” finishing traditions. Of course, for the manufacture of such reinforcing strips, special high-quality paper is used, with a dense fiber structure and high tensile strength.

This, by the way, also applies to corners, internal and external. Plastic corners with mesh “wings” are successfully replaced by paper strips with thin metal reinforcement.

There are many similar reinforcing tapes produced, and, of course, there are already leaders in popularity in this area.

Type of reinforcing tape, illustration	Brief description of reinforcing tape	Approximate price level
"Knauf Kurt"	The tape is paper, high-strength, with micro-perforation applied to prevent air cavities after gluing into the putty layer and smoothing. A longitudinal fold is applied in the center of the tape, which makes it possible to perform an even fold. Can be used with any type of gypsum board edges. Width – 50 mm, thickness – 0.2 mm, produced in rolls 25 meters long.	680 ÷ 750 rub.
"X-Glass Next Build"	Paper tape with high resistance to abrasion and tearing loads. Micro-perforation to ensure air escape. Good absorbency due to the special microstructure of cellulose fibers. Paired with hardened putty, it produces a reinforced coating for joints, similar in physical properties to drywall. Perhaps the most affordable option. Release form: rolls 51 mm wide and 50 m long.	68 rub.
"Sheetrock Joint Tape"	Reinforcing tape on a special cellulose base, with the highest tensile and tear resistance. Creates a monolithic structure of the plasterboard surface at the seams and corners. A fold line is drawn along the central axis of the tape. The special texture ensures maximum adhesion with putty compounds. For a high-quality finish, it is enough to apply three minimally thin layers of putty on top. Tape width is 52 mm, roll length is 76.2 meters.	190 rub.
"SD Build"	Paper tape with perforation (visible through light) and a marking line along the axis (creasing). Tape thickness – 0.25 mm±10 microns. Width – 50 mm, available in rolls 50, 90 and 153 meters long	Roll 153 m. – 200 rub.
"Sheetrock Flex Metal Tape"	Reinforcing tape for forming external and internal corners. The base is high-strength paper with micro-perforation, on which two longitudinal metal inserts made of stainless steel are placed. The texture of the base creates excellent adhesion to putty compounds. No waste - cut to size. Applicable at any angles, internal and external, straight sharp or obtuse - it equally well creates an even reinforced joint of planes, eliminating the formation of cracks or shedding of edges. Tape width – 52 mm, roll length – 30.4 m.	1100 rub.
"Flexible tape"	Corner reinforcement tape - a strong paper base and two parallel galvanized metal inserts. No perforation on paper based determines the specific application - the tape is glued to the finished joint using PVA glue, and only then covered with putty. This disadvantage is compensated by the low price. The width of the tape is 50 mm, the width of the metal inserts is 10 mm with a metal thickness of 0.22÷0.35 mm. Roll length – 15 or 30 meters.	Roll 30 m. – 350 rub.
Metallized corners “Sheetrock”	Corners on a high-strength paper base with glued stainless steel strips. The product range includes two separate types - for external and internal corners. The length of the corner is 3.05 meters. They provide the fastest and most accurate formation and reinforcement of corners that are not afraid of deformation.	For external corners – 310 rubles. For internal corners – 230 rubles.

To finish the question with materials, it is also necessary to mention. It is recommended to treat the entire surface of the plasterboard structure with this primer before starting puttying work. And without fail it is used for priming the finished ironed surface - already before finishing walls or ceiling.

The range of primer compositions presented in stores is very wide, but you can still identify several brands that are very popular among professional finishers.

These include Tiefen Grund from Knauf, ST-17 from Ceresit, universal primer UNIS, and products from Litocol - primer Primer F-m. All of them guarantee the quality of work, and have approximately the same price level - the cost of a 10-liter canister is in the range of 450÷650 rubles.

Drywall Putty Tools

In order for the work of filling plasterboard surfaces to be successful, you need to “arm yourself” with high-quality tools.

• First of all, you need a set of spatulas. It is best to have at your disposal a set of products that differ in the width of the working plane. For initial sealing of cracks and holes, and work in corners, a spatula with a width of 50÷60 mm will be convenient. For filling and reinforcing seams, a wider one will be required - 120÷150 mm. And finally, when finishing puttying large surfaces of a wall or ceiling, you cannot do without a spatula (trowel) with a working plane of 250÷400 mm (some experienced craftsmen prefer an even larger width, 500÷600 mm).

Spatulas must be in good working order, which means the absolute flatness of their metal working surface, and especially its edge. And one more important requirement is the cleanliness of the tool: adhering, dried fragments of mortars that have not been cleaned off after previous use are absolutely unacceptable.

Prices for spatulas

• A paint spatula (metal or plastic) with a fine tooth along the working edge can be very useful. It is convenient for them to act when reinforcing corners, evenly distributing the putty before gluing the corners or tape into it.

• For grouting and grinding putty surfaces, a grater (platform) with a set of sandpaper or abrasive mesh of varying degrees of grain is used.

• For preliminary and final priming of wall and ceiling surfaces, it is best to have a paint bath, roller and brush at your disposal, which will be needed for hard-to-reach places. It is convenient if the roller is equipped with an extension handle - wooden or telescopic.
• A sharp construction knife with replaceable blades is necessary for cutting or adjusting non-factory edge chamfers on sheets of drywall and for cutting tapes. It is better to cut metallized tapes using powerful scissors.

• It is necessary to prepare containers in which the putty mixture will be prepared, and with which it is convenient to work already during its application. Master finishers often prefer to use narrow, long baths with sloping edges and a slightly rounded bottom - it is convenient to draw the solution from them with a spatula, removing the excess with the smooth edge of the bath. In such a container there is practically no unused residue left in the corners; it is easy to wash after finishing work.

If a small amount of putty is required, for example, at the stage of sealing seams, then the solution can be mixed with a spatula directly in the bath itself. If a large volume is needed, it is better to dilute the solution using a construction mixer (drill with an attachment) in a round bucket.

Whatever container is used, the requirement for it is cleanliness. Moreover, we mean a truly clean condition, comparable to new, and not in such a way that, “squinting your eyes,” when washing, small fragments of dried solution are left on the walls, bottom, and in the “traditional” place - in the corners. Firstly, even tiny solid particles caught in fresh mortar will make it much more difficult to apply the putty in even layers, creating grooves. And secondly, such “islands” of old mortar on the walls of the container become “epicenters” for the rapid setting of the prepared putty, capable of rendering the entire batch unusable in a short period of time.

• The illustration above shows more portable lamps. Experienced finishers use them to ideally highlight putty surfaces - by changing the direction of the light rays, due to the play of light and shadow, it is easy to identify even minor deviations from the general surface plane.

Additional equipment includes comfortable trestles or stepladders for safe work at height. When cleaning the walls, you will need to protect your eyes and respiratory organs from fine gypsum dust, that is, you need to prepare glasses and a respirator. And so - ordinary work clothes and gloves, a Panama hat or a bandana - to cover your hair.

Puttying plasterboard walls for painting - step by step

Preparatory work

• They begin work by preparing the premises. It is necessary to ensure free access to all surfaces to be puttied. It is advisable to go over the surfaces themselves with a soft brush to remove adhering dust from them. It’s even better if you have it at your disposal construction vacuum cleaner– the operation of applying putty itself, although not “clean”, still needs to be performed in a clean room.
• Next comes the process of priming the surfaces.

In truth, some craftsmen consider this stage unnecessary, citing the fact that during the production of drywall, it will already receive all the necessary impregnations with compounds that provide both surface strength and good adhesion to finishing materials.

This is true, but during the transportation of drywall, and especially during installation, which involves cutting sheets, the surface can become covered with a layer of fine dust that is difficult to remove, which will sharply reduce the degree of adhesion of the putty. In addition, contaminants from other liquid materials can get onto the surfaces and form stains - these can also become problem areas. And end sections of drywall and homemade chamfers at joints all the more need a primer that will bind the plaster and prevent it from crumbling.

In a word, if you are doing the work “for yourself” and hope for a high-quality and durable result, if you don’t yet have a well-developed experience in applying putty (and most likely you do, since you are reading this article), then it makes sense not to skimp and Don’t be lazy – go over the entire surface with special attention to the joints, cut ends, corners. Moreover, the cost of the soil is affordable, the work itself will not take much time, but further operations will be simplified significantly.

The easiest way to work is to pour primer from a canister into a paint bath. For large areas, the ideal tool for applying primer is a soft bristled roller. It is better to additionally coat corners and joints, as well as other difficult areas with a brush.

Considering the characteristics of drywall, one layer of high-quality primer will be quite enough. Further operations proceed after the applied primer has completely dried.

• Next, a putty solution is prepared to perform the first operations - sealing the seams.

If a ready-made putty is used (say, “Sheetrock”), then after thoroughly mixing it in the factory container, simply add it in the required quantity to the bath. After this, do not forget to tightly close the bucket with the solution with a standard lid.

When using a dry mixture (for example, “Knauf Uniflott” or “Knauf Fugen”), the putty will have to be prepared manually, and best of all, directly in the same bath that will be used for further work. Using the mixer in in this case- completely unnecessary, since large volumes are not required for the first stage, and the “lifetime” of the finished putty is very limited. That is, it is necessary to prepare for work only such an amount of solution that will be guaranteed to be consumed in 20, maximum 30 minutes.

In addition, you must remember the rule - no matter what putty is used, the volume that is collected in the bath and used in the work must remain on the wall. No excess is transferred back to the general container - this will lead to the beginning of the process of setting the solution. Moreover, this often happens “avalanche-like”, that is, literally minutes pass from the first signs of loss of plasticity to the complete unsuitability of the putty.

Illustration
	In a completely clean bath, the required quantity is collected, in accordance with the instructions and with the planned volume of putty. clean water room temperature.
	Using a small cloth, the dry mixture is collected from a paper bag and scattered over the surface of the water. You should try to do this as evenly as possible. Ideally, the powdered mixture is immediately soaked in water and sinks to the bottom.
	As a rule, for the putty to have a normal consistency, fill the bath so that the settling mixture is approximately equal to the water level.
	Using the same trowel or spatula, begin carefully mixing the solution. Particular attention should be paid to the areas at the bottom and at the end sides of the bath - there should be no “deposits” of the mixture there.
	The main task is to achieve a completely homogeneous consistency and a complete absence of lumps, otherwise high-quality puttying will not work. All lumps that come across are thoroughly rubbed against the walls of the bath and then mixed.
	To seal seams and reinforce them, you do not need a solution that is too fluid. On the contrary, the putty must be thick enough and flexible enough so that it can be firmly held on the wall, and even more so on the ceiling surface. When the “spatula” is turned over, the solution scooped onto a spatula should not “flop” down - the mass should be retained, only gradually sliding off the working metal surface. Once the solution is ready, you can proceed to further operations.

It is impossible to give advice on exactly how much putty to prepare, since it depends on both the upcoming operation and the level of skill of the performer. It’s better not to try to prepare a lot of solution - it’s easier and cheaper to mix a new portion than to regularly throw away putty that has begun to set. Remember - no “reanimation” of the solution by adding water to it is possible. The only exceptions are ready-made mixtures stored in sealed containers.

The experience of preliminary “estimating” the required amount of mixture will come with time.

Reinforcement of joints between sheets of plasterboard

So, the plasterboard surfaces are primed, required amount putty prepared. And you can begin work, in which the first stage will be sealing and reinforcing the seams between the sheets.

In the example shown, the master uses Knauf Uniflott putty for this stage, as one of the most durable, and Sheetrock Joint Tape reinforcing tape.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Between adjacent sheets of drywall, regardless of the type of edge, factory-made or cut out yourself, a small gap is sure to form. It can be very small or significant, for example, in sheets with a PLUK edge or with a cut edge. In any case, it must be tightly filled with putty - under no circumstances should there be an air cavity left under the reinforcing tape. This gap is tightly “stuffed” with the solution using a narrow spatula.
	They don’t skimp on the putty - they use it in somewhat excessive amounts, trying to compact it as much as possible in the seam space.
	This is where the convenience of a compact narrow bath for putty comes into play - it is convenient to hold it in your hands, placing it from below under the work area. If any part of the solution slides down, it will end up not on the floor (from where it is categorically not recommended to put it back into use), but in the bath.
	After the entire lumen along the entire length of the joint is tightly filled with putty, its excess should be immediately picked up. This is easy to do with the same spatula, applying it slightly diagonally and removing the putty to the cardboard surface.
	It is very important to try not to leave unremoved sagging or grooves of putty on the surface - after hardening, they can seriously complicate subsequent operations.
	By the way, with the selected solution it is quite possible, without even being distracted, to fill the holes from the heads of the screws located nearby. This filling is usually done in just two movements - crosswise, with the obligatory removal of excess putty from the surface of the cardboard.
	The seam with the gap between the sheets filled will look something like this. Now the solution must be given time to set. Usually they do it this way - having finished filling one seam, they immediately move on to the next, and so on, until a similar operation is performed at all joints of the plasterboard sheets. This time, especially in the case of using Knauf Uniflott putty, should be quite enough for the solution in the joint cavity to set and gain the minimum required strength.
	After the solution for the initial filling of the seam has hardened, you can proceed directly to the reinforcement. Again, the required amount of solution is prepared, and the reinforcing tape of the required length is cut. An important caveat can be made right away. There are many examples on the Internet of reinforcement of seams, which show pre-soaking the tape in water or using PVA glue to lay it. Perhaps this is what the manufacturers of such materials recommend. But in the case of using branded reinforcing tapes “Knauf Kurt” or “Sheetrock Joint Tape”, there are no preliminary manipulations - the tapes will be laid directly on the putty layer. This is a proven technology, and there is no point in changing or complicating it.
	Professional teams working on large projects that require high finishing speeds use special means of “small mechanization” for high-quality reinforcement. But under the conditions of home renovation You can get by with ordinary tools. In particular, to evenly distribute the putty before gluing the reinforcing strips, a spatula with a fine “sawtooth” comb, with teeth 3x3 mm, will serve well.
	So, a layer of putty is applied along the entire length of the seam being processed. First you can post it with a regular spatula.
	But when distributed along the seam line, it should be serrated. It is much more difficult to do this with a regular spatula, especially since it is necessary to maintain approximately equal layer thickness along the entire length. The aforementioned notched trowel will form parallel longitudinal grooves, the height of which is optimal for gluing the reinforcing tape.
	A cut strip of reinforcing tape is being prepared for work. Barely bend it slightly along the center line - there is creasing for this purpose.
	The tape is applied to the applied putty, with the side with a slightly protruding corner facing the wall.
	It is very important to achieve clear alignment of the center (bent strip) of the tape with the axis of the joint between the sheets. Skewing is not allowed.
	The tape laid along the seam is slightly pressed with your fingers. First - along the center line, and then - along the edges. It will adhere well to a freshly applied solution with grooves made.
	The next step is to completely “sink” the reinforcing tape into the putty, so that there are no air cavities left under it - only in this case will it fully cope with its function. A small amount of solution is collected onto a spatula approximately 60 mm wide - in this case it is needed rather as a “lubricant” - the spatula will easily slide along the tape without lifting it.
	Then, with a movement directed strictly along the axis of the seam, without wobbling, the tape is recessed into the previously applied solution.
	To prevent the edge of the tape from shifting and starting to wrinkle at the beginning of smoothing, you can hold it with a second spatula.
	This is the picture you will get as you recess the tape. It is necessary to balance the applied efforts: on the one hand, there should be no cavities left under the tape, on the other hand, it is also impossible to completely squeeze out the entire putty solution from under it.
	The operation is carried out along the entire height (length) of the seam, ensuring uniform placement of the tape in the solution.
	After the entire length of the tape has been laid, recessed and smoothed, it must be covered with a layer of putty on top - after hardening, a monolithic structure will be obtained that can withstand displacement or rupture loads. The solution is applied slightly over the entire area of ​​the “depression” between the sheets of drywall.
	In this case, it is better to apply the putty with a spatula in movements perpendicular to the seam line, so that it fills the entire space.
	Then the applied putty is leveled along the seam line. A wider spatula is used, so that its planes rest on the plasterboard surface. The recommended tool size is 150÷200 mm.
	After such leveling has been carried out along the entire seam line, and after making sure that the paper tape does not stick out anywhere or wrinkle, the final smoothing is performed. Take a small amount of solution onto a wide spatula and apply it, as they say, “on the strip.” In this case, be sure to pick up the remaining material on the drywall plane.
	This is the kind of neat reinforced seam, aligned with the plane of the drywall, that you should end up with. The seam is left in this form until completely dry.
	The next day it is necessary to inspect the seam. Even high-quality putty will shrink slightly, and some minor defects may appear.
	In particular, this illustration shows that after the mortar shrinks, an almost imperceptible groove has formed in the center of the seam. In principle, there is nothing serious about this - if you plan to completely putty the entire surface, then not a trace of such a defect will remain.
	But you can, to clear your conscience, still walk a small amount of solution “to tear off” along the seam line.
	The result is a perfectly straight seam line, exactly aligned with the plasterboard plane. By the way, since the solution has already been diluted, it makes sense to immediately straighten the holes from the screws - the putty in them will also probably shrink slightly.

Reinforcement of corners of plasterboard structures

It is immediately necessary to make a remark - we are not talking about plastering walls, in which it is necessary to create even corners. It is assumed that when installing plasterboard walls or other structures, the necessary clear geometric shapes have already been given. The task is to perform the necessary strengthening (reinforcement) and prepare these areas for further finishing.

Below we will consider a small example in which the master uses ready-to-use universal putty “Sheetrock All Purpose Joint Compound” and reinforcing corners on a paper base with metal inserts “Sheetrock”. If it is intended to use rolled corner tape, also with metal inserts, the essence of the technology remains virtually unchanged.

Again, we repeat that there is special equipment for reinforcing corners with metallized paper tape, including installations for applying the solution in strips of optimal height and width, roller applicators for rolling and other devices. But in the context of home repairs, when the volumes are small and there is no point in adjusting the process unnecessarily, everything can be done very carefully with a basic “arsenal” of tools.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Sheetrock All Purpose Joint Compound putty is characterized by increased versatility, ease of application, high ductility and excellent strength after hardening. An excellent option for reinforcing corners.
	“Sheetrock” corners fully justify their purpose - after being embedded in the solution they become almost invisible, but at the same time they provide excellent reinforcement at the internal and external joints of planes.
	As you can see, the external and inner corners The sizes of the paper and metal strips differ somewhat (on the outside they are noticeably wider, since these are the corners that can experience external mechanical influences). The illustration clearly shows the perforation of the paper strip - due to this, absolute solidity is created, continuity between the layers of paper and putty.
	Let's start with a demonstration of internal corner reinforcement. On the “Sheetrock” corner, the metal strips along two planes are inseparable from each other, which means that there is no special need to somehow prepare the corner for reinforcement. There may be small gaps at the junction of two planes - in this case it is not necessary to seal them with putty - the corner will simply block them. Of course, if you have time, desire and there is no shortage of solution, it’s not difficult to “caulk” them too. In addition, it is advisable to carry out such preparation in the case when not a ready-made corner will be used, but reinforcing paper tape with metal inserts.
	So, a small amount of putty is applied to both planes along the joint line of the planes with an ordinary spatula (trowel).
	There is no need to be particularly zealous - very little solution is really required.
	Next, a “comb” spatula with a fine tooth is used again. With its help, the applied putty is leveled along the corner line.
	The same thing is done immediately on the second side of the corner.
	The spatula will pick up excess mortar and leave grooves on the surface of the drywall with an optimal height for gluing the corner.
	A reinforcing corner cut to the required length is installed in the inner corner and slightly pressed in with your fingers to ensure its reliable fixation in the plastic solution.
	Then a very small amount of solution is collected onto a narrow spatula (50÷60 mm). This will allow the working surface of the tool to easily slide over paper tape, without scoring, and at the same time spread the putty on top in a thin, even layer.
	Holding, if necessary, the edge of the corner, use a spatula to embed one side of it in the applied solution. It is necessary to ensure that a thin, even layer of putty remains under the paper, and that the excess is squeezed out from the edge and through the perforations of the paper.
	At the same time, due to the solution squeezed out and available on the spatula, the necessary outer layer is created, which is smoothed flush with the surface of the drywall.
	Then a similar operation is repeated on the second “wing” of the corner.
	If necessary, you can add a little putty on top, smooth out the corner, and then pick up all the excess from the planes of the drywall, achieving an even transition from the corner to the walls. After this, the reinforcement of the inner corner can be considered complete - it is left until the putty has completely hardened.
	Now - the outer corner. By analogy with the internal one, when using a ready-made reinforcing corner, any preparatory work filling small gaps at the junction of planes is not necessarily an operation. A small amount of solution is applied along the corner line with a spatula, first on one side...
	...and then with the second one.
	Next, a notched trowel is used again, with which excess mortar is selected and longitudinal grooves of optimal height and filling are applied.
	The next step is to install a reinforcing corner cut to the required length on the corner line and lightly press it into the applied solution with your fingers.
	The position of the corner is adjusted, if necessary, so that its top clearly follows the line where the planes meet.
	Then, for insurance, holding the edge of the corner with one spatula, with the second (with a small amount of collected solution), one paper “wing” is sunk into the putty, squeezing out the excess.
	The same operation is carried out on the second side of the corner.
	The reinforcing corner itself is installed in place and securely glued into the mortar layer. All that remains is to apply a thin layer of putty on top of the paper “wings”.
	Using a spatula, apply a slightly excessive amount of putty on both sides along the corner.
	Then, using a spatula 100÷120 mm wide, the applied solution is smoothed, leveling it with the level of the plasterboard surface. At the same time, all excess and remaining furrows are removed and cleaned.
	The same thing is then carried out on the second side. At the same time, make sure that a neat angle line is formed - this is not difficult to do.
	The finished reinforced outer corner will look something like this. It is left until the solution dries completely. The final finishing of the corner, that is, the elimination of minor defects, will be carried out after applying a continuous finishing layer of putty.

After the reinforcement of the seams and corners is completed, you can proceed to the final puttying of the entire surface of the drywall.

Find out in a special article on our portal.

Final puttying of plasterboard surface

Let us repeat somewhat - with high-quality drywall and carefully executed reinforcement of seams and corners, with complete smoothing of the applied mortar, continuous mortar is sometimes neglected, especially if thick textured paint is used. However, this step is still highly recommended to eliminate minor surface defects that may appear through the paint.

A thick layer of putty on drywall is completely unnecessary, since there are practically no level differences. It is important to achieve uniformity and absolute smoothness of the surface. As a rule, continuous puttying is carried out in two steps - this ensures maximum surface quality before painting.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	To begin with, put the required amount of putty into the bath - it will be more convenient to work with it than constantly collecting the solution from a large bucket.
	An example of puttying will be shown on a small, untreated area. Please note that the seams and corners are already reinforced. The horizontal seam had a homemade cut chamfer - it requires some attention when working. WITH right side- a section of the wall already puttied with the primary layer.
	To work, you will need two spatulas. One is 200÷250 mm wide - it is more convenient for them to take the solution from the bath and apply it to the walls, as well as pick up the excess from the second spatula. The second spatula is 400 mm (it can be longer, but the work will be more difficult, especially if you have no experience). The first step is to put putty on a spatula, in a fairly large amount.
	This solution begins to be evenly distributed over the surface of the drywall.
	The putty should be evenly distributed over the entire surface, without gaps, in a layer approximately 1.5÷2 mm thick. You shouldn’t get too carried away with the initial application - an area of ​​about 0.5 square meters, or even less, is enough. A thin layer of putty sets quite quickly, but it still needs to be carefully leveled.
	Next, take a large spatula, completely cleared of the solution. They use it to level the putty over the surface with the application of force, as they say, “to tear off,” leaving only a thin, uniform layer on the wall.
	When performing this operation, the spatula work surface will pick up excess solution. Excess putty is immediately removed with a second, shorter spatula.
	As a result, a thin, evenly distributed layer of putty remains on the wall. Immediately make sure that there are no grooves left from the edges of the spatula - they are immediately smoothed, achieving an even surface.
	We reached a non-factory joint of drywall sheets. It is already reinforced, but since there was no “depression” provided in it, a small step may form. To get rid of it, putty should be applied in this area along the seam.
	And then, also along the seam, they pass “to tear off”. If this operation is carried out carefully, the step will be completely smoothed out.
	Once you have gained a little experience, you can do the work “two-handed”. Using a small spatula, excess putty is picked up from a large one, and it is also applied to the surface...
	... and with the larger one, distribution and smoothing are already carried out “by tearing”.
	Particular attention is given to areas along the outer and inner corners. There, after smoothing, the excess extending beyond the top of the corner must be removed.
	The work continues in the same order until the entire selected section of the wall is puttied, after which it is left until completely dry. You should try to perform the initial putty as carefully as possible in order to avoid the need for intermediate cleaning before applying the second, finishing layer. True, but with inexperience, this may not work out right away, and the surface will have to be cleaned to remove small defects protruding above the surface. And this, in turn, will also require intermediate priming after stripping, since it will be necessary to bind all the microscopic dust, otherwise the adhesion of the second layer of putty will be insufficient. Techniques for cleaning surfaces will be discussed below.
	And this is further confirmation of the thesis that it is still necessary to putty plasterboard surfaces, and best of all - in two layers. After the first layer of putty was completely dry, the surface took on a striped appearance. This is not a drawback of applying the solution - it’s just that the unevenness of the drywall itself appeared. Recesses invisible to the naked eye after filling with a thicker layer of putty look lighter. The same thing would happen with paint! The second layer will completely level the surface and make it absolutely homogeneous.
	The technology for applying the second layer is almost the same. First, an excessive amount of putty is applied...
	...and then use a wide spatula to scrape it off, smoothing out all the irregularities and remaining marks from the edges of the tool.
	They work in the same way over the entire area. In some ways, the second pass is even easier, since you no longer need to be distracted by non-factory seams. If the work was unfinished for some reason, then when resuming the application of the finishing layer of putty, make a small, 150-200 mm wide, approach to the already treated area so that steps do not form.
	The result is something like this surface, no longer translucent, which after drying will acquire an even matte white color.
	After the entire putty plasterboard surface has completely dried, all that remains is to “bring it up”, that is, completely get rid of minor defects by sanding. The necessary tools are being prepared for work. It includes smoothers (sanding platforms) with replaceable meshes or sandpaper, a spatula - for removing too much protruding sagging, sanding sponges-bars, without which it is difficult to achieve a good result in the inner corners, a brush with soft bristles - for sweeping dust from the surface. A respirator becomes a mandatory element of equipment - the work ahead will be very dusty.
	The experience of professional finishers shows that this “budget” version of the sanding platform is not entirely convenient. It quickly tires your hand, and the force is not transmitted evenly enough.
	The work of sanding walls will be performed more efficiently and with less loss of strength using a platform of this type. Its thoughtful configuration ensures rational application and uniform distribution of force on the surface of the wall being processed.
	Strips of sandpaper or sanding mesh are placed on the platforms. The mesh is somewhat more expensive, but it does not become clogged with dust and will serve until it is worn out to holes. For initial cleaning, for example, between two layers of finishing putty or to eliminate defects that are too prominent, you can use a P180 grit mesh. Coarser grits should not be used - the surface of the drywall is already smooth, and too “coarse” an abrasive can only damage the work done. And for finishing sanding it is generally better to take a P220 mesh.
	You can use a portable lamp to reveal surface defects in the play of shadow and light. The sinkholes and transitions between layers shown in the illustration are not particularly typical for thin-layer puttying of a plasterboard surface, however, anything can happen. But marks from the edge of the spatula are quite common, especially with a lack of finishing experience.
	It is recommended to grind in a circular motion, usually counterclockwise, varying the applied effort depending on the presence and severity of defects. During work, a soft brush is used to periodically sweep away accumulated dust from the surfaces. It is necessary to achieve a completely flat, smooth surface, without flaws. It is also better to control the quality of stripping using a portable lamp.
	Processing external corners, as a rule, does not present any difficulties - both converging planes are polished one by one. After this, it is recommended to lightly, in one or two movements, walk the sandpaper along the corner line.
	A small, barely noticeable rounding of the corner will only be beneficial and will remove minor irregularities.
	WITH internal corners somewhat more complicated - increased accuracy is required here, since when sanding one plane, you can, through negligence, leave grooves on the second. Usually, to do this, leave a small outlet of mesh (sandpaper) on the side of the platform, and sand the area along the corner so as not to touch the adjacent wall.
	Then they move to the other side, also carefully processing it.
	And at the end, to finally bring the angle to perfection, use an abrasive sponge block. It will ensure that the ideal right angle is created.
	You can also use a block of a special, trapezoidal shape - there is practically no chance of damage to the adjacent plane with such a tool. It is also suitable if the joint is designed to have an angle that differs from a straight line. Such bars are not cheap, but they provide top quality work.
	Finish sanding the walls with general cleaning - dust is swept away from the surfaces with brushes (you can use a vacuum cleaner, switching it to blowing mode). The floor is kept in order - all construction waste is collected and washed away. After this, all that remains is to make the final “chord” - to cover finished surfaces a primer that will finally bind fine dust and ensure high adhesion to the paint. Priming is carried out in one layer, but very carefully, avoiding drips that can leave prominently protruding marks. The paint on plasterboard walls prepared in this way will lie very smoothly, and no defects will appear on the surfaces.

It should be correctly understood that at first, in the absence of experience, the work may not go as smoothly as shown in the instructions. It's okay - your hand will soon get full. And to get initial practice, it is better to practice on inconspicuous areas of the walls, or even to begin with, on large fragments of drywall left after installation. Diligence, accuracy, consistency, following technological recommendations– and everything will work out!

In the examples given in this article, more emphasis was placed on puttying walls. However, very often they mount dropped ceilings, which also need similar processing. The technology is approximately the same, only complicated by more inconvenient working conditions. To fill this gap in the information provided, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video below.

Video: how to properly putty a single-level plasterboard ceiling