How to make a mesh fence with your own hands. How to install a chain-link fence with your own hands without welding? How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has been a reliable material option for fences for centuries. In the fencing of a chicken coop and a transformer hut, a sports ground and a plot of land - such a mesh can be found everywhere. There is no alternative to it in demarcating neighboring areas - according to the regulations, it is prohibited to install boundary fences made of opaque materials. The task of making a chain-link fence with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

Which chain-link mesh to choose for a fence

The chain-link mesh is a continuous fabric of wire spirals woven together. This design makes it easy to splice the fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common sizes are 30-50 mm), standard height rolls 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

Wire is used to make mesh different diameters from 1.2 to 5mm; Most of the chain-links on sale are made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated or uncoated:

• Without coating (“black”). It is better not to use mesh made from it for permanent fencing, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the “advisers.”
• Zinc coated is the most common option. Galvanized chain-link will fade after some time, but will not rust, having served for decades.
• From of stainless steel. A chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
• In a polymer shell. This mesh appeared on sale not so long ago and is in great demand. Firstly, it has a long service life (provided you choose a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), and secondly, you can realize your fantasies due to a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized wire mesh

Grid with color polymer coating

With your own hands you can not only build a chain-link fence, but also weave the mesh itself. There are many drawings manual machine for weaving it. Manufacturing the machine will require some milling, welding and light turning work. One person is able to produce up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, if you have wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for fencing construction

There are several options for making a chain-link fence. In any case, the most responsible and labor-intensive process is marking the territory and installing support pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing a mesh fence, you should accurately, in accordance with the existing documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, think about the location of the gates and gates. Clear the area for the construction of the fence from debris and vegetation, and then drive stakes (wooden or metal stakes) into the future locations. corner posts and supports for gates and gates.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to stretch a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed 2-2.5 m apart from each other, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded to big side.

The distance between the pillars should be from 2 to 2.5 m

In this way the number of corner posts is found; the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the distance mentioned above by the number of pillars. The locations of future supports should also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods for installing supports. Wooden posts are short-lived, concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties when attaching the mesh.

The optimal solution to make a chain-link fence with your own hands will be metal racks from round or profile square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Next we will consider this option.

Support Pole Installation Methods

You can install metal racks:

• simply driving them into the ground;
• forget - place in a pre-prepared hole and fill it with stones or large crushed stone, constantly compacting it;
• partially (when the end of the post is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in pre-prepared pits.

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - determining the type of soil, the level of groundwater and the depth of soil freezing. But for a light chain-link fence, possible movements of the supports of a few centimeters in height are insignificant, so in practice they use a simple rule - at least 40% of the post must be in the ground. That is, a post for a fence 1.5 m high should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but complete concreting is optimal.

In practice the process looks like this:

1. Install corner (or end, if there are gates and gates) posts, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
2. Prepare holes for intermediate posts according to the preliminary markings. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil makes the work much easier!
3. After the concrete has hardened, pull a cord along the top of the posts to control the height of the intermediate supports being installed, and another one at the bottom to control the placement of all posts on the same line.
4. To make it easier to level the pillars in height, fill the bottom of the holes with sand, gravel or small crushed stone and simply change the height of this cushion by adding or removing material.
5. Fill the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control, and install stops and supports if necessary.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week); the posts must be primed and painted.

Instructions for building different types of chain link fences

Before you start building a chain-link fence with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength. Indeed, in one case you need a powerful fence made of a non-standard mesh with 4-5 mm wire for grazing livestock, in another you need a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or a lightweight structure without frills on the borders of neighboring plots. For each task there is its own option.

The simplest fence for a site

Most easy way installation of a mesh fence - simply attach it to the installed supports. For this work you will need an assistant, or better yet two.

1. Before fastening, roll out the chain-link on the ground to a distance of slightly more than one span between the posts.
2. Check the height level of the wire spirals and, if necessary, screw in or unscrew displaced ones. The fact is that it is not visible on the roll whether they are all at the same level, and after stretching the mesh it will be impossible to align the links.
3. Immediately bend the edges of the spirals with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of the mesh unraveling during installation.
4. As you fasten the mesh, unwind it further.

There are several ways to attach the chain-link to the posts, but it is highly advisable to attach not the mesh itself (to avoid its deformation), but a metal rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm inserted vertically into its link. Using another similar pin, inserted a little further, the assistant should pull the fabric.

This does not require any blocks, levers or complex structures for tensioning, moreover, excessive efforts by one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support like this:

• just tie it to a post with soft wire. Most quick way, but not too beautiful;
• use special clamps rather than wire;

Fastening with clamps

• put the pin on the pre-prepared hooks and bend them. Hooks made from pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the stand at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is tensioned;

Fastening with hooks

• weld the rod (not the fabric!) to the post in several places, obtaining a permanent connection;
• stitch the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into pre-welded sections of pipe with a diameter of 1/4″ and a length of 15-20 mm. They should be placed on the support at the same distance as the hooks; the short length of the segments will allow them to fit into the grid cells. Most aesthetic way collapsible connection.

The end and corner posts will experience constant loads from the tension of the mesh, so braces (stops) are required.

Corner post installation method

Fence option with guy wires

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and to prevent sagging of the canvas, you can stretch one (from above) or several rows of cable or wire 4-6 mm thick.

Such strings can be attached to supports and tensioned in any convenient way, but the most practical option– using special ties or tensioners.

String tensioner

When installing a chain-link fence with your own hands using guy ropes, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3 m. But it is worth considering that when tensioning, the load on the outer and corner supports increases many times over, so their rigidity should be increased in comparison with the supports for a simple tension fence.

Ideal option Fixing the fabric is through stitching the mesh along its length. But this process is long and labor-intensive, and the complexity increases with increasing diameter and stiffness of the cable or wire.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first tensioned, then the chain-link is installed in the same way as described above simple method, and then after 200-300 mm the mesh is tied to the guy wires with galvanized binding wire with a cross-section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To enhance load-bearing frame fence, logs should be welded to the installed posts, preferably from a profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, so the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not “fold” when the mesh is tensioned and the fence is subsequently used. With this installation method, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Chain-link mesh on a frame with logs

Since most of the efforts will be applied in the upper part of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or strings even stretched, as in the previous method. Screw the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with logs will be a good foundation for the future, if there is a need to decorate the fence by hanging additional material. You can also easily replace the chain-link with corrugated sheets or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

Fence from sections

A fence made of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and disadvantages:

• such a design is the most beautiful and impeccable from an artistic perspective;
• each section is separate and rigid structural element, so there will be no issues with mesh sagging and loss protective properties;
• if necessary, sections can be dismantled and the posts can be used to build new fences;
• Possibility of installation with a large slope of the fenced area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be stretched when the ground level rises no more than 6° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values ​​are greater, the right solution would be a sectional fence with uniform ledges.

Sectional fence with ledges

To manufacture the section, a solid-rolled steel angle with a flange of 40-50 mm is used.

1. Using a grinder (preferably a mounting saw), cut off the parts strictly perpendicularly required size.
2. Lay the frame on a flat surface (or level all the corners using pads), carefully measure the diagonals. To avoid twisting, the frame should be cooked in opposite corners.
3. In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to repair areas burnt from welding than to paint the corner under the mesh!).
4. It is necessary to install the mesh fabric through rods, which can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as with racks). At the same time, fasten the first pin on the side of the frame, after tensioning the mesh - on the opposite side, and then on the top and bottom.
5. Do not apply excessive force when tensioning, otherwise the section may “fold” inward. Fastening on all sides, even with minimal tension, will prevent the canvas from “worrying” and sagging.
6. The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections based on the already known distance between the posts).
7. To attach the sections to the posts, weld metal dies (approximately 6*60*250 mm) in advance.
8. The frames can be attached to the dies using either electric welding or bolts, resulting in a collapsible structure.

Approximate diagram of fastening sections

Video: do-it-yourself chain-link fence

How to decorate a chain-link mesh - original solutions

Many people do not want to make a fence from chain-link mesh, considering it impersonal, too simple, and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely in vain! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A labor-intensive method, but beautiful and for a long time.

The use of polymer multi-colored tapes and cords. Bright, elegant, but not too durable.

Elegant appliques made from ribbons and cords

Living plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the active growing season and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if the dried stems are not removed in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. You can use artificial greenery in the same way.

Light-shading nets. They come in different colors and degrees of light transmission. They significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, so they are not suitable for a simple tension fence.

Application of light-shading mesh

PVC photo fence or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or sectional fence solution, hanging over the chain-link.

At this point, the question of how to make a mesh fence with your own hands can be considered closed. Good luck in construction, and may the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!

Fence - required element any private property. If country houses Experts recommend fencing with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages - with practical and inexpensive options. Most suitable material for a country fence - chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make a durable fence, but also increase the productivity of the beds, since the structure does not interfere natural ventilation on plot of land, and also does not block the sun's access to it. To build a chain-link fence with your own hands, you don’t need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of craftsmen in installing a practical fence without welding, and will also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to perform such work.

Features of chain-link mesh, its advantages

Chain-link mesh is a universal material that is indispensable in summer cottages. It has many advantages that make it even more popular among buyers. These include:

• affordable price. Rabitz - a budget option material for the construction of a fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount of money to install a more expensive structure at the dacha;

• long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh is capable of maintaining its original appearance for several decades (up to 40-50 years). It does not rust when correct operation not deformed.
• the need to use a minimum number of tools and fastening materials during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a chain-link fence using either welding or without it. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

• ease of care of the material;
• The mesh does not interfere with natural air circulation and does not shade the area.

Important! A chain-link fence serves as an ideal fencing not only for beds, flower beds or vegetable gardens, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's rooms. playgrounds, enclosures for pets, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, chain-link mesh comes in three types:

1. Non-galvanized.
2. Galvanized.
3. Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is enough cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but its long service life can be doubted, since under the influence of moisture the surface very quickly becomes covered with rust.

Galvanized mesh is the most popular among customers. It is a little more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart and does not rust, which is really very valuable.

Plasticized material – modern version, but more expensive. In the manufacturing process, polymers are used that properly protect the metal mesh from moisture. Plasticized mesh has different color scheme. Each homeowner is able to choose a material that will ideally suit the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable fence from a chain-link mesh is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require a large number of professional knowledge and skills. To work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from chain-link mesh:

1. Using a welding machine.
2. No welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

Tools and materials

To ensure that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all the necessary tools and materials. During the work you will need:

• chain-link mesh (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
• support pillars (wooden, metal or reinforced concrete);
• special fastening hooks;
• sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
• shovel;
• building level;
• mounting tape;
• hammer or drill;
• bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest option for a mesh fence for a summer house is a tension fence. Its installation will not take as much time as it might seem at first glance. For correct execution work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.

Advice! To install a tension fence made of chain-link mesh, it is best to hire an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the best budget option for summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands; you will appreciate its advantages not only personal experience, but you will also see by the increased amount of harvest received from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Chain-link fence: photo

Mesh is widely used in fencing summer cottages. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools on hand. Subject to installation technology and selection quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the mesh, as well as study the instructions in detail to avoid mistakes.

The mesh is made from black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the service life of non-galvanized chain-link by using paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the mesh before its installation, and then periodically update the protective layer.

A mesh made of galvanized wire is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but does not require any protective treatment at all. made from galvanized chain-link, they look neat and attractive.

Plasticized chain-link is becoming increasingly popular. This metal grid covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has increased resistance to atmospheric influences. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.

In addition to quality, chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have sizes from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The roll height is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. Standard length mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive the cost of the mesh, because this increases the consumption of material.

Prices for mesh netting

Rabitz

Types of mesh fences

Chain-link fencing can be sectional or tensioned. The first option involves the production of rectangular metal sections, inside of which a mesh is fixed. For sections, metal corners, profiles and round pipes small diameter. They are connected by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, metal carcass prevents the mesh from sagging.

A tension fence is quicker and easier to install; its design consists only of support pillars and the mesh itself. The mesh is secured using steel wire, clamps, or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes of different diameters, concrete pillars, and wooden beams are suitable for pillars.

Installation of fence posts

For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of pillars is carried out using the same technology, only in the first case the pillars must be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.

To work you will need:

• roulette;
• wooden pegs;
• a skein of thin rope;
• building level;
• hand drill;
• crushed stone and sand;
• solution;
• profile pipes 60x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• primer.

Step 1: Installing Corner Posts

The area allocated for the site is cleared of vegetation, leveled if necessary, and the location of the outer pillars is determined. Experienced builders recommend making corner posts from pipes with a larger cross-section than intermediate ones, and digging them deeper. For example, if for intermediate supports they take a 40x40 mm profile pipe, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.

Start installing the pillars:

When the solution has hardened a little, you can remove the spacers and begin marking for the intermediate posts.

Step 2. Marking

A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. The optimal span width for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the mesh will definitely sag. They step back from the outermost post to the required distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on until the opposite corner. All pegs must be in contact with taut rope and be at an equal distance from each other.

Video - New way to install support poles

Step 3. Installation of intermediate supports

In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is filled with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertically, covered with crushed stone and soil and compacted tightly with a crowbar. Concrete is poured on top and the surface is leveled.

If you plan to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports can simply be driven into the ground and not concreted. To do this, drill holes to half the required depth, insert pipes there and hammer them in with a sledgehammer. To protect the top edge of the posts from deformation, take a piece of pipe bigger size, weld a steel plate on one side and place it on top of the post. After driving in the supports, the pits are filled with crushed stone and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and compacted thoroughly.

Step 4. Welding the hooks

After about a week, when the concrete has sufficiently hardened, installation can continue. You can secure the mesh to the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hang it on hooks. There are profile pipes on sale with already welded hooks, but if you have a welding machine, it is cheaper to make them yourself. For this purpose, pieces of steel rod, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - anything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.

Video - DIY chain-link fence

Step 1. Attaching the mesh

A roll of chain link is placed near corner post, unwind a little and put the cells on the hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross-section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After this, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when tensioning the roll, the mesh will not sag. Having secured the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.

Having retreated 10-15 cm from the junction of the chain-link with the pipe, a steel rod is again threaded into the cells. This time there is no need to weld it, it will simply help to tension the mesh evenly. When the mesh is put on the hooks, the rod is removed, the roll is unwound another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two sheets, use wire from the extreme vertical row one of the rolls.

Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging

Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need 6 mm wire and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. Where the mesh adjoins the posts, the wire is welded. Then the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened in the same way, and finally the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not sag or sag.

Step 3. Final stage

Once the fence is installed, the finishing touches need to be completed:

• place plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
• paint the posts;
• Twist the upper tendrils of the chain-link in pairs into 2 turns and bend down.

At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.

Video - Connecting a chain-link into one roll

Installation of a sectional fence

Step 2. Preparing the racks

Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. Take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, 15-20 cm away from the edge. The plates are attached to the remaining supports in the same way.

Step 3. Installation of sections

The first section is placed between the pillars, raised and leveled. Then they weld the sides to the plates and move on to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that top bars the frames were single line. After installing all sections, the welding areas are cleaned, the fence frame is primed and painted.

Read step-by-step instructions on how to do it in our new article.

Video - How to make a chain-link fence

Each owner of a home or a plot of land strives to designate the perimeter of his territory. For this purpose, various fences are built from brick, stone, wood or metal, but their construction is very expensive. The way out of this situation is to build a fence using a chain-link mesh. This material is so easy to install that it is quite possible to handle it with just one pair of hands. The result is a reliable and, at the same time, lightweight fence. So what is chain-link mesh?

Chain-link mesh - what kind of material is it? Advantages and disadvantages of using it for a fence

The history of the creation of this material takes us to the end of the 19th century. In 1878, Czech engineer Karl Rabitz patented his invention. He used this mesh as a reinforcing agent when plastering walls.

This material is a metal wire woven using a machine by twisting flat spirals.

Currently, chain-link mesh is widely used:

1. The use of chain-link mesh in the construction of a fence has both positive and negative criteria. The advantages of using it for these purposes include:
2. One person is enough to install this material on the poles. This does not require any special knowledge or skills. It is enough to secure the structure by simply twisting the wire.
3. The material does not require large financial costs, so the constructed fence will have a minor impact on the construction budget.
4. The design of the material is such that it will not interfere with air circulation and the formation of a continuous shadow. This quality of chain-link mesh is especially valuable when used in fencing for gardens, vegetable gardens and summer cottages.
5. In winter, a fence made of such material will not create snow drifts.
6. Chain-link mesh fits perfectly into any environment. Thanks to its visual transparency, this fence does not disturb the landscape, which indicates its versatility.

With appropriate processing and proper use, the metal mesh will not lose its original appearance for several decades.

1. The disadvantages of chain-link mesh as a fence include:
2. It must be properly secured to the posts, using not just pieces of wire, but also bolts and nuts or a welding machine. Otherwise, there may be people who want to kidnap her.
3. Not everyone will like visibility through the mesh, so you will need to additionally cover this space.

Since the material is made of metal, it is susceptible to corrosion.

Types of fence mesh To make mesh, chain-links are used various materials or combinations thereof. This significantly affects its service life, specifications

1. and, of course, the price. Therefore, this material is divided into types:
2. Non-galvanized mesh has the lowest cost due to its short service life. When wet, this mesh will rust, so it must be treated with a special solution or painted. After several months, these procedures should be repeated, the cost of which will ultimately exceed the purchase price of the mesh itself.
3. Plasticized mesh is distinguished by the fact that its entire fabric has a polymer coating. This innovation appeared not so long ago, but has already become popular. Prices for mesh with this coating are significantly higher than for previous types. Having installed a fence with it, you can forget about the service life, since with high-quality plastic the wire is well protected from moisture and other weather influences.
4. Plastic or polymer mesh differs from the previous ones in that it does not contain metal wire. In the manufacture of this material, special additives are used that make it resistant to ultraviolet exposure. This type of mesh is made with cells various shapes, sizes and shades. Unlike the first three types, it is much softer, so it is not advisable to use it to fence the perimeter of a household.

Galvanized, on the contrary, does not require additional processing Non-galvanized mesh requires protection from moisture The polymer coating of the plasticized mesh will reliably protect against natural precipitation and temperature changes The plastic is UV resistant, which is its undeniable advantage.

Preparatory actions for construction work: calculating the area of ​​the future fence

Before you begin calculating the area of ​​the future fence, you need to establish what type of foundation will be used. Since the mesh has a relatively light weight, the load on the supports will be insignificant. Therefore, heavy concrete bases are usually not used for chain-link fences, but this also depends on the preferences of the owner.

An important point will be to study the soil in which the pillars are dug or the foundation is laid:

1. If it is rocky ground, then spend cash on concrete base there's no point because installed pole does not deform over time.
2. If the building site is dominated by clay soils, then the gap between the pillar and the hole must be reinforced with gravel or filled with concrete.
3. If the fence will be installed on an area whose soil contains a large number of sand, then it is necessary to use a strip base.
4. If the fence is erected on peat bogs, then screw piles are used as pillars, onto which a chain-link mesh is secured.

When studying the soil, it is necessary to determine the freezing point, since installing a post above it will lead to deformation of the fence at low temperatures.

The width of the strip-column base should be at least 25 - 30 cm, and the length, for example, 30 m. We make the calculation: 0.4·30 = 12 m 2 - this is the total area of ​​the strip base of the chain-link fence.

When pouring a strip base, for the purpose of strengthening, the size of the foundation for each support is made wider than the gap between them. For more accurate measurements, it is necessary to add up the areas of the base of all the pillars and the areas of the spaces between them. For example, the size of the base of the pillar is 40x40 cm, and the gap is 30x215 cm.

To calculate the total area of ​​this foundation, you need to find out the values ​​first for the bases of each support, and then for all the intervals. There are 12 supports (pillars) for this fence. Therefore, the length of the base for the pillar must be multiplied by the width, and the resulting result multiplied by the number of supports: 0.4·0.4·12=1.92 m2 - this is the total area of ​​the base for the pillars (supports). The area for the gaps is also calculated, only you need to multiply by one less: 0.3·2.15·11=7.09 m2. Now we need to add up the results obtained, and we get the total area for the entire tape: 1.92 + 7.09 = 9.01 m 2.

What material is suitable, the dimensions of the fence mesh. Tips for choosing

Chain-link mesh is manufactured in different sizes, which are standard. Wide Application I found a chain-link mesh with cell sizes: 0.4x0.4 cm, 0.5x0.5 cm, 0.6x0.6 cm, as well as options with intermediate sizes: 0.45x0.45 cm, 0.55x0.55 cm. roll height (mesh width) this material has dimensions: 120 cm, 150 cm, 180 cm and 200 cm. The length of the mesh web also has established standards. A mesh of 10 or 15 meters in length is rolled up in a roll.

Some manufacturers produce chain-link mesh in non-standard sizes. In this case, the material can be up to 4 m high, with cell sizes from 30 mm to 150 mm.

When purchasing a chain-link mesh, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the wire and the quality of the metal. It shouldn't bend easily. The mesh cells must be identical, since any deformation is a sign Low quality metal The spirals should not be twisted. If you do not take this defect into account, then after a few months the wire in this place may burst.

When purchasing this material, you need to look at both edges of the roll. Each end of the wire must be connected to the adjacent element and bent. The length of the bent “tail” of the wire should be more than half the cell. Otherwise, the edges of the stretched mesh may unravel after some time, which will lead to its deformation.

If the choice is made on a plastic-coated mesh, then in the cheap version it will bend easily. Inexpensive mesh options are coated with low-quality polymer, which can crumble after a few seasons. In this regard, it is necessary to clarify the warranty periods established by the manufacturer.

The most inexpensive option is a non-galvanized mesh. The main enemy of this type of mesh is moisture. In this regard, after installing the fence, you need to take care of painting it.

All this suggests that when buying this material you should not choose cheap options.

Carrying out calculations of the required material. Calculation examples

To build a fence using chain-link mesh, you need to determine:

• type of mesh used;
• the width and length of its canvas;
• number of supports;
• type of base and required volume concrete mixture, in case of choosing a capital foundation;

To construct a fence from this mesh, you need the following materials:

1. Rabitz.
2. Metal channel.
3. Concrete mixture marked M200.
4. Wide wooden boards or plywood sheets for making formwork.
5. Bolts, nuts.
6. Wire, metal fasteners and clamps.
7. Reinforcing bars.
8. Sand.
9. Crushed stone.
10. Anti-corrosion primer.
11. Dye.

To build the fence, a chain-link mesh with a polymer coating will be used, with a cell width of 40x40 mm and a wire thickness of 3 mm. The width of the fabric in a roll is 150 cm, length is 15 m. Channels with parameters 50x50x2400 mm are used for the pillars. To install this type of fence, a strip foundation will be poured. The length of the fencing section is 30 m.

Having established what materials will be needed when building a fence with chain-link mesh, you should proceed to calculations. First you need to calculate the total amount of concrete for the permanent foundation. To do this, you need precise parameters for the length, height and width of the base. Since the foundation under the pillars is wider than under the fence span, each of them will be calculated separately.

The calculation of the concrete base for a chain-link fence will look like this:

1. To determine the volume of concrete for the base of one pillar, you need to multiply its length, width and height: 0.4·0.4·0.4=0.064 m3.
2. To calculate the volume of concrete for one pile, you need: 0.15·0.15·0.5=0.011 m3.
3. Now you need to add these values: 0.064·0.011=0.075 m3 - this is the volume of concrete required for the foundation of one pillar.
4. In 30 meters of the future fence there will be 12 bases for pillars and 11 for spans. Therefore: 0.075·12=0.9 m3 is the total volume of the foundation for all pillars.
5. In the same way, it is necessary to make a calculation for 11 spans between the pillars. According to the diagram, the distance between the bases of the pillars is 2.15 m, therefore: 0.3 2.15 0.4 = 0.258 m 3 - this is the volume of concrete for one span. For all spans: 0.258·11=2.838 m3.
6. Next, you need to find the total value for the concrete required to lay the entire foundation. To do this you need to fold general values for pillars and spans: 0.9+2.838=3.738 m3.
7. To calculate total length mesh netting, you need to multiply the distance between the metal channels by the number of spans: 2.5·11=27.5 m.

Required Tools

When building a fence using chain-link mesh, the following materials will be required:

1. Hand drill or screw shovel.
2. Shovel and bayonet shovel.
3. Cord and stakes.
4. Concrete mixer.
5. Pliers.
6. Metal scissors.
7. Welding machine.
8. Building level.
9. Plumb.
10. Yardstick.
11. Metal brush.
12. Molar brushes and roller.
13. Hammer.
14. Nails.
15. Buckets and tanks for water and concrete mixture.

A step-by-step guide to making a chain-link fence on your property with your own hands

When all necessary materials purchased, diagrams and drawings have been drawn up, all calculations have been made, you can begin construction work:

1. First of all, you need to make markings for digging a trench. This can be done conveniently using a cord and wooden stakes. If during earthworks a stretched cord will get in the way; you can loosen it. eventually it will reveal all the irregularities.
2. Then, using a bayonet and shovel, dig a trench 30 cm deep and 40 cm wide.
3. Inside the trench, at a distance of 2.5 m from each other, dig holes with a diameter of 35 to 40 cm. These holes are intended for pouring concrete mixture for piles (foundation pillars). To do this, you need to use a hand drill or a screw shovel.
4. When all the holes have been dug, you need to carefully compact the bottom of each of them, as well as the trench. Place a layer of sand at the bottom of each hole and trench, which must be compressed to a thickness of 10 cm. In order for the sand cushion to compact well, it must be moistened. In this case, the sand particles will fit closer to each other.
5. For a more reliable base for the foundation, you can use it from above sand cushion Apply an even layer of gravel 5 cm thick.
6. Now you need to prepare the holes for installing channels and pouring concrete. To do this, it is necessary to install formwork in each of them. As such, you can use roofing felt rolled into a pipe or other elastic waterproofing material. The best option in this case, asbestos-cement pipes of the appropriate diameter will be used.
7. To strengthen a concrete pile, it is necessary to make a metal frame from reinforcing bars. The diameter of each rod should be 12 mm. Metal structure should look like four elements connected to each other. Wire must be used as connecting parts. The specified structure must be placed inside the asbestos-cement pipe in the hole. The length of the metal frame should be 20 cm higher than the bottom of the trench.
8. Then, in the middle of the metal frame, at the bottom of each hole, install channels measuring 5x5x240 cm. These metal poles must be leveled using a building level and plumb line. To prevent the pole from leaning during the concrete hardening, it must be strengthened with temporary braces. Metal struts must be attached to the first and last pillar using electric welding. It should be noted that each channel must first be treated with a metal primer. This will protect it from corrosion.
9. Now you need to pour concrete inside the asbestos-cement pipe. After pouring, it takes time for the concrete mixture to harden, usually 3 to 6 days. Freshly poured concrete must be free of air bubbles. To do this, for the first 1.5–2 hours it is necessary to lower the metal rod into concrete and remove it, thereby allowing the air to escape.
10. When the concrete piles into which the channels are fixed have hardened, it is necessary to proceed to installation work strip foundation. First you need to make a metal frame from reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12 mm. The principle of fastening and its shape are similar to that installed in piles. The distance between each reinforcing bar should be 30 cm. This structure should be placed horizontally along the entire length of the trench, but not touch its bottom. To do this, you need to put it on the bottom of the trench in advance. wooden beams cross section 5x5 cm, length 40 cm.
11. After the metal structure is laid in the trench, it is necessary to make formwork for the strip foundation. To do this, you need to build shields 20 cm high from boards or thick plywood, securing them with self-tapping screws. Install the formwork as shown in the image.
12. Now you can pour the concrete. Its level should completely cover the metal frame and be 10 cm above ground level. The result should be a strip-column foundation, the total depth of which will be 90 cm.
13. The concrete in the strip foundation must harden, which will take 2 to 3 weeks. It should be covered from direct sunlight, as it negatively affects the hardening process. If you ignore this, the base will crack. Please note that in the first two days, every 10–12 hours, you need to water the concrete base with water. These steps will help the mixture harden evenly.
14. When the concrete has hardened, you can begin installing the chain-link mesh on the posts.

Fences of this type are made:

• tension;
• sectional.

Tension option

To secure the chain-link mesh by tension method, you need to place the roll vertically and stretch a metal rod through each cell. Then, using electric welding, attach this metal rod threaded through the mesh to the post. Repeat the same actions with the canvas when attaching to each post.

The easiest way to secure the mesh is using wire. This option is faster and cheaper, but in this case the fence can be easily stolen.

If you don't have the skills to handle welding machine, then bolts, nuts, metal plates or staples can be used as fastenings. This option is much more reliable, since the fastening is rigid and resembles tightening a clamp.

Then the roll is unwound to the next post and secured by tensioning the web. For high-quality stretching, the help of one more person is required.

To prevent the upper edge of the chain-link mesh from sagging over time, you need to reinforce it with wire. To do this, using special fasteners and tensioners, the canvas is strengthened. The wire can be threaded through the last cells of the upper edge or 10–15 cm below. Sometimes the wire is threaded through the bottom of the mesh.

There is another option for securing the mesh, which will eliminate the possibility of its theft. In this case, the chain-link mesh is pulled over the pillars before the strip foundation is poured. Its above-ground edge should be installed slightly below the intended level of the strip base. When pouring the mixture, the bottom strip of the mesh will be concreted.

Sectional fence

To create this option, it is necessary to attach 2 metal plates measuring 20x5 cm to the posts using electric welding. They should be located at a distance of 30 cm from the top and bottom edges.

Sections for the fence are made of metal corners with a side width of 40x40, metal thickness - 5 mm. Then you need to measure the distance between the posts and subtract from this value from 5 to 10 cm. This will be the width for the frame of one section of the fence, and its height will be 150 cm. The result will be four corners, from which, using electric welding, you need to make a rectangular frame measuring 250x150 cm. The resulting scale must be carefully removed using a grinder.

Then, using metal scissors, you need to cut the mesh to fit the metal frame. The protruding ends of the mesh must be carefully bent to form cells along the edge of the canvas. Now you need to thread metal rods along all edges of the specified segment. After this, it is necessary to weld the rod with the mesh to the inside of the frame. Carry out the same actions with the other parties.

Weld the finished section to metal plates. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the sections are at the same level, since the slightest distortion will give an untidy appearance to the entire fence.

Final finishing - decoration, photo

A fence built with your own hands using chain-link mesh has a neat appearance, but nothing more. Over time, the desire arises to somehow decorate it. You don't have to be an artist or designer to do this. It is enough to show your imagination, and your fence will become a piece of art.

The most in a simple way transform the fence is planting climbing plants next to him. In a few months, your fence will turn into a flowering wall. Pillars can be decorated clay pots, this will give the fence ethnic beauty.

Fence cells can be turned into canvas for embroidery. Like a drawing on a canvas, you can weave it with your own hands beautiful patterns. For this you will need wire. If you use colored twine, then with its variety of colors and shades you can create three-dimensional images.

IN Lately It has become popular to decorate the fence with a photo grid. The drawing can be absolutely anything. The peculiarity of this material is that from a distance a continuous pattern is visible, but in fact it consists of a fine polymer mesh, which is perfectly ventilated.

Wire resembling lace is an interesting option for those who have nothing to hide Painted roses look elegant. The main thing is that the drawing on the photo grid matches the landscape Wide grape leaves will decorate and hide the area from prying eyes

How and with what to close the fence from neighbors: options with photographs

Since a chain-link fence is completely transparent, any home owner will want to hide it from prying eyes. It is not advisable to cover it with any shields or boards.

The easiest way is to cover the fence with camouflage netting. Visibility through the fence will be much less, but also appearance will be unattractive.

You can cover the fence with reed mats. This method is more expensive than the previous one. Attaching them is not difficult; you just need to unwind the roll and secure it in several places with wire.

A similar option is to use artificial pine needles. This material is sold in rolls. It is used in making wreaths and baskets, but it can also be used for fencing.

A fence that is covered with a camouflage net looks aesthetically pleasing only if you are in a paintball zone Rolls of reeds are a more expensive option The use of artificial needles looks original

Video: how to stretch a chain-link mesh

Using chain-link mesh during construction, you will not only create a permanent fencing of the territory, but will also have the opportunity to realize your design idea by decorating the perimeter to your own taste.