How to make a hand vice. Making a vice for a drilling machine with your own hands

The vice seems to be an important tool that helps in organizing plumbing work. They allow you to correctly organize any operation related to precise adherence to dimensions that require concentration and composure of the master. Any part can be firmly fixed in the desired position, thereby allowing its owner to concentrate on work.

A bench vise is designed to clamp a product during work.

Vices are used especially actively in any workshop, because it is impossible to imagine processing wood or electrical devices without the use of holding devices. You can make homemade bench vise yourself. How to do this correctly? To answer this question, you should study the varieties of this clamping mechanism, the components and elements of the device.

Types of vices: A – metalworking; B – machine tools; C – manual.

Machine vices are used for rough fastening of parts, the processing of which involves the following activities:

• drilling recesses;
• sanding the base;
• finishing the coating with a file;
• gluing elements;
• milling the outer layer.

Machine vices allow you to strengthen the workpiece with the support of the listed elements:

• screw with holder;
• wedge constipation;
• diaphragm;
• pneumatic mechanism;
• eccentric.

An example of elementary devices would be the first point, which allows you to create one of the primitive structures.

Read also:

What and why is needed.

On one's own.

To strengthen the part in the desired position, it is attached to workplace. In the house, an ordinary table serves as such a covering. Traditionally, machine vices are represented by such elements as:

• supporting body;
• main lead screw;
• handle and nuts;
• a device that allows you to attach the vice to the desired point;
• a set of heads including flattened jaws that secure rounded parts.

Such homemade products most often have two slats, one of which has a movable base. Its movement is associated with the operation of the main lead screw. The second part is motionless; it allows you to fix the base of the device on the table. The holder helps move the clamping structure.

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Tools and accessories

To make a bench vice you will need: a hacksaw, drill, hammer, tape measure, etc.

To cope with the assigned task, namely the independent production of metalwork structures, you need to be able to handle basic tools:

1. A metal rod with a cross section of 20 mm.
2. Iron pins for making handles and pins.
3. Wood from pine and birch.
4. Steel plates.
5. Hacksaw.
6. Electric drill.
7. Rotary.
8. Bolts.
9. Hammer or small sledgehammer, file.
10. Tape measure or ruler with a metal base.

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Self-production of bench vices

You can make a machine vice yourself by making a lead screw or purchasing ready-made samples. Its length corresponds to 140 mm, and the thread is M20. Similar elements are found on sports-purpose structures. To make it yourself, you need to buy a strong steel rod, its diameter is 19-20 mm. The thread is cut by hand or made in a special workshop in lathe. In this case, you can count on more accurate dimensions.

In accordance with the specified thread dimensions, the distance between the jaw holders is 75-80 mm. These dimensions are suitable for personal production devices. A cut needs to be made at the top of the screw to secure the holder. When using this element from a sports projectile, such a hole is ready-made; you just need to enlarge it slightly with a rounded file. The use of a self-made bolt gives rise to the construction of such an opening with a drill with a calibration corresponding to 8-9 mm. The handle can be an iron pin 10 cm long. To securely fix it, you need to make 5 mm openings along the edge, cut in the threads and screw in M5 screws, their length is 3.5-4 cm.

After this, the machine vice must be equipped with 2 pins. In this case, fastening elements are taken from the scooter mirrors. Most often they have a slightly curved shape, which can be corrected with a hammer or small sledgehammer. The pins will allow you to move the movable sponge. They can be made independently from a steel bar with a transverse position of 8-10 mm. Small elements are cut off from this iron pin using a hacksaw. The edges should be finished with a file.

Sponges are used to hold machine parts in the devices under consideration. They can be made from wood, provided that the examples of fixing parts are items that do not contain any of the metals. Such material can be pine boards; their height is 40-50 mm. They will be needed to make a stationary sponge; it is immediately fixed to the table surface. Of course, this is done if the structure will not be moved to another location. To build a movable element, take a birch board 50 cm long and 18-22 cm high.

Then the recesses are drilled with a feather drill for the bolt, the studs allow you to use an ordinary drill, the diameter of the tip is 10 mm. Then the design is put together: the studs and lead screw are fixed in the openings made, washers and nuts are placed in the right places. Assembled mechanism can be fully exploited.

It’s not difficult to make reliable and easy-to-use vices with your own hands. The need for this may be caused not only by the desire to save on the purchase of a serial model, but also by the need to use a clamping device that will allow it to more effectively solve the tasks assigned to it.

Serial models of vices, although universal, are not always able to provide high accuracy fixation of parts, they are quite bulky and have significant weight.

Homemade vices, used primarily in a home workshop, can be made more suitable for performing certain technological operations, and therefore more efficient and convenient.

Homemade bench vices may differ little from factory ones in terms of appearance, and in terms of reliability

Any person who spends a lot of time in his home workshop will confirm that it is quite difficult to do without such a device as a vice. Without clamping device It is difficult to perform various operations on parts made of metal, wood and plastic. The use of a vice guarantees not only high accuracy and efficiency of drilling, milling, etc. operations, but also the safety of the machine operator. If there is no desire or opportunity to purchase production model such a device, it is quite possible to make a vice with your own hands, spending very little time and effort on it.

Homemade bench vise: option No. 1

You can make excellent strong bench vices yourself from profile pipes. Below is detailed instructions in photo selection format, supplemented detailed video. Unfortunately. video on English language, but this is unlikely to prevent a competent master from understanding the essence of the process.

Vise parts from the profile Running nuts Fastening the running nuts to the base of the vice
Screwing in the lead screw Maximum opening of the vice The vice is assembled, all that remains is to paint
Painting the moving part Painting the fixed part The vice is ready for work

Instructions for making a vice: option No. 2

Homemade vices do not require complex design developments and calculations. You can use numerous photos and drawings of such devices, which are easy to find on the Internet. A fairly simple, but at the same time very effective design is created on the basis of metal pipes.

As is known, pipes used for the installation of water and gas pipelines are manufactured in such a way that a product of a certain diameter fits tightly into a pipe of a subsequent standard size. It is this feature of the pipes that allows them to be used for such a device as a homemade bench vise. Visual drawing, photos and descriptions of the manufacturing process will help you make this vise yourself.

Structural elements that will consist of homemade vice, are:

• line segment metal pipe, which will act as the internal moving part of the device;
• a piece of metal pipe of the following standard size, which will serve as an external fixed part;
• running nut with thread diameter M16;
• lead screw with thread diameter M16;
• a knob through which rotation will be imparted to the lead screw;
• front and rear supports, due to which the stationary pipe will be fixed to the base;
• pieces of rectangular pipe (future clamping jaws of a vice);
• two lock nuts with thread diameters M16 and M18.

Two main parts of the vice (movable and fixed)

To make such a vice with your own hands, you begin by welding a flange to the end of a section of a larger diameter pipe, which will act as a stationary element. A nut with an M16 thread must be welded into the central hole of the flange. A flange with a central hole into which the lead screw will be passed is also welded to the end of a section of a movable pipe of a smaller diameter.

At some distance from the edge of the lead screw, an M18 nut is welded to it (it will become a fixing element). After this, the end of the lead screw to which the nut is welded must be passed through inner part moving pipe and insert it into the hole in the flange. In this case, the nut should press against the flange with its inside.

A washer is put on the end of the lead screw protruding from the outside of the flange and an M16 nut is screwed on, which is then welded to the screw. A washer must also be installed between the inner nut and the flange surface, which is necessary to reduce the friction force. To correctly perform this stage of making a homemade vice, it is better to focus on the corresponding video.

After the movable vice assembly is assembled, you should insert it into a fixed pipe of a larger diameter and screw the second end of the lead screw into the nut of the second flange. To connect the lead screw with the knob, a nut or washer can be welded to its end protruding from the side of the movable pipe, into the holes of which the knob will be inserted.

The clamping jaws of such a vice can be made from sections of rectangular pipes, which are welded to the moving and fixed parts. To give the structure stability, two supports are welded to the bottom of the fixed pipe, for which corners or rectangular pipes can be used.

The inner tube can also rotate during the rotation of the lead screw, which makes the use of such a vice very inconvenient. To prevent this from happening, a longitudinal slot can be made in the upper part of the stationary pipe, and a locking screw can be screwed into the movable pipe, which will move along this slot and prevent rotation of the movable part.

Many photos of homemade vices of a similar design show devices whose moving and fixed parts are made of square or rectangular pipes. The use of such pipes also avoids rotation of the moving part of the vice.

The vise of the described design, the author of which is V. Legostaev, is reliable and effective clamping fixtures, easy to maintain and repair, which makes them very popular among home craftsmen.

How to make your own carpenter's vice

Almost any home craftsman has to deal with processing wooden products. The need for such processing may be associated with the manufacture of various wooden structures, and with the repair of existing ones. Carry out this work using improvised tools with metal clamping elements, is not only inconvenient, but also fraught with damage to the surface wooden part, the appearance of dents and cracks on it. This is why it is best to use a carpenter's vice for wooden products. Making them yourself is also easy.

As in the case of a bench vice, finding drawings, photos and even videos of the manufacture of such devices on the Internet is not difficult.

The simplest design consists of the following elements:

• massive body wooden block, which also serves as a fixed clamping jaw;
• a movable sponge made of a wooden block;
• cylindrical metal guides along which the movable jaw will move;
• a lead screw that ensures movement of the movable jaw;
• a crank through which rotation is imparted to the lead screw.

Everyone who has spent their entire life solving any construction or household tasks with their own hands probably has a table vise. This is where we are familiar with this instrument. But today it is far from the only one, although it is the most affordable option this tool.

What are vices for?

Beginning renovation work, first of all you have to think about the availability of construction tools and devices. Much on the farm cannot be done without this device; often a carpenter's vice is a holding link in any type of processing of parts and materials. They mean a device that includes a body and two clamping jaws. The main purpose of this tool is to firmly secure parts during work such as:

• milling;
• drilling;
• planing.

The product is fixed by rotating the main screw handle. Instead, other mechanisms can be adapted, such as wedge, diaphragm, eccentric, pneumatic. Essentially this is the main locksmith tool. Good masters They know that if the workpiece is not firmly secured, the work will not be accurate and of high quality. Moreover, when the part is firmly fixed, your hands remain completely free, and this makes it possible to control the work process.

Bench vices and more – what are their common structural elements?

This tool can be installed on any work surface, at home this can be regular table or any flat surface. Although there are also hand vices that are not attached anywhere, but are used for high-quality pressing of several parts to each other. According to their size, they can be large, medium and very small. The size does not play a big role in the operation of such a device, it’s just that larger ones can hold parts bigger size.

Most often produced this device of these types: general purpose, bench vices rotating for any shaped parts and pipe vices that have additional jaws for pipes. Basically, all types differ quite a bit in their structure. The vice consists of the following parts:

• body parts;
• lead screws;
• lever;
• lead screw nuts;
• replaceable strips.

Carpentry and machine vices - studying the range of types

The most commonly used tools are machine tools and metalwork tools.. Rotary machine vices are designed to provide rigid fastening of parts at various construction work. They have a special rotating platform; it is needed to ensure free rotation of parts around a vertical axis. When the position is selected, the tool is secured to the base using special bolts. The turntable should not be used continuously, otherwise the rigidity of the entire structure may be reduced.

Sine vices are used in cases where the workpiece needs to be installed at an angle. First, you need to calculate the required angle (using a special formula) of the height of the stand, sometimes you even draw a drawing, but the vice, when sold as a set, has all the necessary parts to bring the idea of ​​the drawing to life. With their help, the part is installed on the moving part, that is, in the space between the cylindrical bushing and the lower support.

IN Lately Two-position (cross) vices are produced. They are very versatile and most popular among specialists. This device allows you to install parts with an angle of 2 perpendicular planes. There is also another type of machine tool - a pattern vice, also called precision. They are used for finishing parts, when it is no longer necessary to strongly fix the object, because intensive physical operations will not be performed on it.

The peculiarity of precision vices is that the connector is made in such a way that it ensures almost perfect parallelism and perpendicularity of the axes when fastening, therefore these tools are considered high-precision.

If parts need to be secured at an angle in 3 planes, then you cannot do without a three-axis vice. This is the most complex and expensive tool, but it has many capabilities. When working on such a vice, it is possible to use separate halves of the clamps. They are tightly fixed right there on the table. The fixation is strong due to one sponge, which has a very small stroke. This tool allows you to process two parts at once. It's convenient and helps improve productivity.

A bench vise is the same “old-fashioned” clamping tool. It is used when the part is dangerous or inconvenient to hold in your hands during processing. They are designed to work with soft materials such as plastic, wood and the like. All types of vices are available different sizes. The difference may also be the size of the movable jaws. The difference between machine tools is the height of the sponge; most often, it is smaller. Bench vices also differ in their rigidity; as a rule, they should be more rigid.

Every owner wants to have a comfortable carpenter's vice in his workshop. This will allow you to process any parts or blanks made of wood or other materials at any time. soft material. With their help, carving is quickly carried out wooden blanks. Many craftsmen replace this device with clamps. This is a little inconvenient, they can slip off from time to time, and they only need to be attached to a block. It’s better to have a carpenter’s vice, and you can even make them yourself at home.

Homemade vice: minimum details - maximum effect

If you pay attention to shop tools of this type, they consist of a body and a movable bar. It, in turn, can move along two guides. The tool must be screwed to the surface with screws and special bolts. The jaws are made in such a way that you can always attach different pads: wooden, plastic or other soft material. Having considered the principle of operation and the device, it is quite possible to design a homemade vice.

The first step is to purchase the parts that make up the tool. You will need a screw with a 20 mm thread and a thread length of 150 mm, it can be found in sports corners, it is usually inserted inside vertical tubes. Its purpose is to press the structure tightly against the ceiling. Preference should be given to the longest screws, this will increase the distance between the jaws. You also need studs; they are often found in old parts, but you can also buy them in a store. If they are not found, then you can use similar fasteners, for example, pay attention to the mounts for mirrors on mopeds. They are often a little bent there, but can be straightened out with a sledgehammer.

It is necessary that the head of the screw has a slot, because it often happens that it does not fit the size of the handles, but this is easy to fix, you need to use a round file: a few movements and the hole is widened. A good handle for tightening can be a screw with a ring. Next, a stationary sponge is made; it can be made from. It must be firmly nailed to the table surface. But the moving part is made of boards, where the thickness is approximately 20 mm and the width is 18 mm. The length of the movable jaws should be about 50 cm.

Holes are drilled in the boards using a feather. It needs to be adjusted to a diameter of 21 mm. The studs should also have holes, and they can be made using a regular drill with a diameter of 10 mm. In order to complete the work faster when making a vice with your own hands, and get a more accurate result, it is advisable to nail the boards together, and simply remove the nails after completing the work. After the holes are ready, all that remains is to insert the studs and screws, and also attach all the nuts and bolts.

If you need to work with short workpieces, you will only need to rearrange the pins. To do this, you need to drill more holes, and they should be on close range to the clamping screws. Depending on what parts are selected, vices of different sizes can be made. This will allow you to work with boards of any length and with parts of different sizes and shapes. It is important that this tool is firmly attached during operation. Russian craftsmen have always been famous for their ingenuity, which is not done by human hands. As they say in one phrase: “There would be a desire, and the rest is all little things.”

If you go into a store and look at the cost of a bench vise with a jaw width of 120mm or more, it becomes kind of sad...

Having looked at the metal that I have available at the dacha, I decided to spend a day on self-production bench vice.

The material I looked for for making a vice:

Iron sheet for the base of a vice, 4mm thick
- profile square pipe 50mm with a wall thickness of 4mm
- corner 60mm with wall thickness 5mm
- corner 75mm with wall thickness 8mm
- strip 10mm thick
- threaded rod 20mm
- long nut 20mm

The plate for the base of the vice was 200x160mm in size.
I decided to cut the same one and drill evenly holes with a diameter of 8mm in one of the plates spot welding I fastened these two plates together.

Cleaned up the welding areas:

I drew a central line in the center of the plate and along the edges of it I also drew a pair of lines 20mm wide - the thickness of the pin.

I installed the long nut into which the stud will be screwed onto a spacer - a piece of 10mm thick strip to which I welded this nut.

I installed the nut on the spacer in the center of the drawn line and screwed the pin into it and aligned it in the center.

After that, I welded the pad with the nut to the base plate and cleaned it.

A 60mm corner with a wall thickness of 5mm and a length of 200mm will be used as sidewalls.
I installed them to see what it would look like:

Here general form parts for bench vice:

IN profile pipe A 50x50mm grinder made a longitudinal groove slightly wider than the welded stand with a nut.
At the edge of this pipe I left an unsawed part equal to the width of the future jaws.

The corners surrounding the profile pipe were tacked to the base sheet.
Between these corners I placed a plate 50mm wide and 10mm thick. In order for the profile pipe to move normally, I made a spacer between this plate on top and the profile pipe itself.
As a spacer I used a couple of hacksaw blades for metal.

After that, I welded the plate along its entire length. The result was a kind of box:

Since the gap between the plate and the corners turned out to be quite large, after welding the plate on top, I cut off the tacks and welded the same plate from the inside.
Since the profile pipe has semicircular edges, the welding seam from the inside does not interfere with the movement of the profile pipe.

After that, the resulting box was cleaned:

As a base for the jaws of the vice, I used a thicker corner of 75mm and a wall thickness of 8mm. The width of future sponges will be 150mm.
Having installed the corners at the future fastening points, I cut them slightly at a bevel.

A piece of strip 10mm thick will be used as the sponges themselves.
The sponges will have a size of: 150x50x10mm.

Having attached these future jaws to my corners, I secured them with dog-shaped pliers and drilled 4.2mm holes through them.
Then I cut 5mm threads in the corners, and drilled holes in the jaws with a 5.1mm drill and made a countersink for countersunk.

I screwed the bolts into the cut threads and reverse side I screwed on two nuts, which I then welded. It turned out to be some kind of elongated thread of 5mm.

I made holes for attaching the jaws to the corners in the center of the jaws - 25mm from the vertical line and 30mm from the edges.

At the end of the profile pipe, where in the future the knob will be attached to the stud, I initially planned to weld a square pad.
Then I decided to weld a piece of corner along the edges of the pipe, in which I would then cut a thread and not weld this area, but fasten it with screws.
This will allow me to disassemble the vice later if necessary.

Having placed the corner with the future jaws on this part, I made bevels of the corner relative to the protruding welded corners.

In the future, to strengthen the jaws, braces will be welded on the inside of the corners and the whole thing will be welded with a 4mm thick plate.

To strengthen the upper part of the vice, where there is room for the anvil, I put another plate 8mm thick (like the corner of the jaws) and a width equal to the total width of the box.
Thus, if in the future you have to use the anvil for its intended purpose, then the entire load will be placed on the vertical ribs of the side corners.

Having welded the reinforcing braces, I covered the corners of the jaws with a 4mm thick plate and cleaned everything with a grinder and then with a 40-grit emery wheel.

Yes, for welding...
I cooked with the Forsazh-161 apparatus
Electrode - MR-3S 3mm
Welding current is about 110A.

When scalding the corners with a 4mm plate, I used the same electrodes, only at a current of about 80A.

I cut the slot in the profile pipe in place so that this cut does not interfere with the movement of the pipe relative to the welded area with the nut.
So that nothing sticks.

If you have to change your workplace several times a day, you can equip each of them with a personal, homemade, hand-made vice. Their design, like everything ingenious, lies on the surface and is simple but very effective, like much of what the famous one offers House master V.Legostaev.

Any self-respecting DIYer has a vice. However, a real full-fledged tool today is not only expensive, a good vice is also bulky and heavy. My workshop is actually the entire site: I have to work in different places, and a vice is needed very often. It turns out that you have to drag a heavy tool every time or run back and forth all the time to process parts.

Vise=Two pipes

It is known that gas and water pipes They are produced in such a way that any pipe necessarily fits tightly inside a pipe of the next standard size. Taking this into account, I decided to take two pieces of pipe of two adjacent sizes. Inserted it into a large pipe and attached it to one of the ends using electric welding.

flange with nut large diameter- M16. On smaller pipe Using the same electric welding, I installed a similar flange with a nut, but of a larger size - M18. The M16 threaded rod in such a hole should rotate smoothly.

It was to this stud that I installed a nut at a short distance from the end, which was securely secured using electric welding. After that, I inserted a threaded rod into the cavity of the small pipe so that the fixed nut was inside the pipe and rested against the flange with big hole. I screwed another nut onto the protruding end of the stud and also secured it with welding. Between the flange and the nuts, I pre-installed intermediate sliding washers. Now screw the end of the threaded rod that sticks out enough from the pipe into the nut big pipes. The result is the main working element of the vice. All that remained was to install the pressure plates (jaws) and support plates (paws) on the vice. I made the jaws from a square pipe, and the paws from a corner. And the vice is ready!

For ease of maintenance, I welded a nut to the protruding end of the threaded rod in such a way that, by inserting any rod into it, it was possible to easily rotate the axis and control the vice.

Homemade vices have disadvantages

When working on such a vice inner tube It can spin behind the hairpin, but it doesn't scare me at all. You just need to hold this pipe in the desired position when fixing it. And it’s not difficult to eliminate this drawback - just install the lock.

It’s even easier to make a vice from two scraps of similar size square pipes. All technology remains the same.

DIY vice - photo

DIY vice: drawing

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