How to make an edge on chipboard at home. How to glue edges on chipboard at home

home

Information Security

Often, due to furniture design errors or other reasons, it is necessary to glue an edge to the chipboard. It is almost impossible to glue a traditional plastic edge at home, especially without special equipment. The melamine edge saves the day, fortunately there are enough colors. Let's see how melamine edge gluing is done and what it is all about.

Without going into detail about what the melamine edge itself is made of, we can say that it is a tape on which adhesive is applied. At the same time, the glue is thermal, so simply gluing it on will not work. At the same time, thanks to the thermal adhesive on the chipboard, it holds well.

Fig.1.

Before we begin describing the process of gluing the melamine edge, a few words about the necessary tools and preparing the end of the chipboard. To apply the melamine edge you will need construction hair dryer, a knife and a pair of construction gloves.

Fig.2.

The end of the laminated chipboard must be clean and smooth, without sawdust and flaking parts. Otherwise, the edge will not stick to the chipboard, but will stick to it poorly. The best end is obtained after milling or sawing on a machine. Next photo will show the end Bad quality, I just didn’t have anything better at hand.

Fig.3.

The melamine edge gluing begins by cutting a strip of the required length or slightly longer than required from the main roll. In this case, the end that will be glued first must be trimmed. This can be done with ordinary scissors.

Next, apply the edge to the end of the chipboard. It should be said that the melamine edge is available in a width of 20 mm, i.e. it is wider than a chipboard. Therefore, at this stage it is important to align it along one edge, as in the photo.

Fig.4.

Please note that on the other side of the chipboard, the edge protrudes. In the future it needs to be trimmed.

Fig.5.

Next comes the hairdryer. For gluing melamine edges, a temperature of 250 degrees is sufficient. The edge is heated with a hairdryer, thereby melting the glue. A characteristic feature, indicating that the glue has melted is the moment when the edge loses its curved shape after being in the roll and becomes straight. Then she simply presses against the end laminated chipboard by hand. This must be done with gloves, because... the edge is hot.

There are a few features worth mentioning.

Edge gluing should be done in a warm room, this will ensure that the glue hardens more slowly. Accordingly, there will be more time to correct the position.

The melamine edge should be heated not along its entire length, but along 20-30 cm. It’s easier to work this way, and the glue doesn’t have time to harden before the edge is pressed against the end of the chipboard. So, on average, a 60 cm long end is glued in 3 approaches. The first - the beginning of the edge is glued, the second - the middle part of the edge, the third - the end of the edge.

Do not forget that the temperature of the air from the hair dryer is about 250 degrees, so you need to work carefully and do not point the operating hair dryer at your hands or other objects.

Fig.6.

There are many options on the Internet on how to glue an edge. For example, heat it with an iron. In my opinion, this is not advisable. Sometimes, when overheated, the glue leaks out from under the edge, and most likely it can ruin the iron, and it costs more than a hair dryer. It is also suggested to cool the edge different ways. This is also not advisable, because at a room temperature of 25 degrees, the edge cools down before the glue hardens in a few seconds, and in my opinion, it is not advisable to come up with additional operations.

The last step is cutting the melamine edge.

Fig.7.

IN in this case trimmed with regular kitchen knife, there was simply nothing else at hand. The result is not the best. A sharp knife with a thick blade, such as a shoe knife, gives a good result. The knife should be positioned at an angle to the edge of about 30-45 degrees from the bottom side. Gives the best result special device for trimming melamine edges, but I personally never managed to purchase one.

In conclusion I will say one more thing interesting feature. As you can see in the photo, the edge cut has White color, that against the background of cherry color it doesn’t look very good. This can be eliminated using wood stain on water based. You just need to moisten a rag in the stain and wipe the cut with it, removing the excess. For example, for cherry-colored chipboard, a mahogany stain is well suited.

When making furniture from laminated chipboard the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, furniture edges and profiles are used. It’s more convenient to work with them using special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the unsightly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. They make it out of different materials, accordingly, she has different properties and price.

You can also get this edge yourself

Paper or melamine edges

Most cheap option- edges made of paper with melamine impregnation. The paper is taken of high density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and glued to papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layer (cheaper) or double-layer.

To prevent the melamine coating from wearing off, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge the parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the back side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, you just need to slightly warm up this composition and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edge is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm - the most common. There is no point in making it thicker, and it will be expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But mechanical strength its very low - the edge quickly wears out. Therefore, if it is used, it is only on those surfaces that are not subject to load. For example, on the back of shelves, table tops, etc.

PVC

Received in Lately Polyvinyl chloride is also widely used in the production of edges for furniture. From painted to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth, monochromatic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it’s easy to choose the right one.

Furniture edging PVC is the most popular material, which is used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:

High mechanical resistance.
Withstands impact chemical substances (household chemicals, For example).
Waterproof material protects the ends of the product from moisture.
PVC is an elastic material that allows you to process curved surfaces.
Works well with simple devices, which allows you to get a good result even at home. Different edge thicknesses look different

PVC furniture edging is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm.

The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or external appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece.

Eat furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heat, you must be careful so as not to melt the polymer.

Made from ABS plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals and is characterized by high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be considered the high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:

Resistant to high and low temperatures, therefore, when gluing, you can use glue with any melting point. Small shrinkage when heated - about 0.3%.
High mechanical stability. Several options for edge tape made of ABS plastic

This type of edge can be matte, glossy or semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate various types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to use and more durable to use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin section of wood, colored and shaped into a strip. This furniture edge is used in production for gluing sections of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from transparent acrylic. A design is applied to the reverse side of the strip. The layer of polymer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. Used in the production of unusual furniture.

Acrylic gives the picture volume

Profiles for processing furniture edges

You can trim the edge of furniture not only with edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are attached mechanically. They are available in two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

For T-shaped furniture profiles, a groove is milled in the edge being processed. The profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the angle look attractive. It is brought to an ideal state with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum; with the same installation method, they look very different, and the differences are significant.

T-shaped furniture profile for processing furniture edges

In width they are available for laminated chipboards of 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted with glue. They coat the edge with it, then put it on plastic profile, press and fix well. These PVC profiles there are soft and hard. Hard ones are harder to bend and it’s difficult to paste them over curved edges. But they have great strength.

Gluing C-shaped furniture profiles does not cause problems

If you still need to “fit” a rigid C-shaped furniture profile onto a bend, it is heated with a hair dryer, then given the desired shape and secured with masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue furniture edges with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those that have glue applied to the back. In this case, an iron or a hair dryer is needed.

The second is for gluing tapes without glue.

In this case, you need a good universal glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

It’s possible to get such an edge at home

A little about what thickness of edge to glue on which parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, do not need to be glued at all, but basically they try to treat them so that less moisture is absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or 0.4 mm PVC is glued to these edges. The edges are also processed drawers(not facades).

It is better to use 2 mm PVC on the front ends of the facade and drawers, and 1 mm PVC on the visible sections of the shelves. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue edging yourself with glue

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge; it can be applied to PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process; any melamine ones are easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, thick cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A hair dryer is also suitable for this purpose. We set the iron to about “two”, while it is heating up we cut off a piece of tape. The length is a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.

Place the edge tape on the part

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it out. There should be small pieces hanging off both sides. We take an iron and, using a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, heating it until the glue melts. It is necessary to heat evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

Warm up with an iron

The edge can be cut with a knife, both with the sharp and blunt sides. Some people use regular metal ruler, some people find it more convenient to use a stainless steel spatula.

So, take the tool you have chosen and cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic cuts well with a knife.

If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges can be processed manual router, if he is. This guarantees good results in a short time.

The processing will take longer if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

You can even use a spatula with a hard blade

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part should be smooth, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, which is why all defects are visible. Therefore, first go over the cuts with sandpaper, then thoroughly remove dust and degrease. Only after this can you glue.

Edging with PVC tape (no glue on the back side)

With this method of self-gluing PVC edges You need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue and carry out all the steps as recommended. For example, for Moment glue, you need to apply the composition to the surface and distribute it, wait 15 minutes, and firmly press the surfaces to be glued.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To press the edge tightly to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a block, you can take a construction float and also attach felt to its sole. As a last resort, you can roll up thick fabric in several layers and press the tape to the surface.

Press firmly, leaning with all your weight

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all its weight, pressing it to the surface of the chipboard. The movements are stroking. This is how they iron the entire edge, achieving a very tight fit. The part is left in this form for some time - so that the glue “seizes.” Then you can start processing the edges.

Source: http://stroychik.ru/mebel/vidy-torcevyh-kromok

How to glue edges on chipboard and PVC

In furniture production, edging is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapors.

You will learn about what types of edges there are, as well as methods for gluing them and how to glue the edges with an iron and hairdryer from this article.

Types of edges - why are they needed?

The most common type is melamine edge with glue on paper based . Used for finishing interior areas of furniture. Available, inexpensive, but not the best quality option. Does not tolerate moisture and wears out quickly. Easily glued at home with a simple iron.
T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped strip, it is inserted into a slot in the side of chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant and resistant to moisture. To glue PVC edging, you will need an edge processing machine, so using this type of edges at home is difficult.
ABS plastic is an environmentally friendly option without chlorine.
Prized for its resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subtypes - edges without glue and with glue.

Average cost of a profile per one linear meter:

PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, they actively use products from the company Rehau, which offers big choice color solutions, as well as different tape widths from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that will calculate how much material is required for gluing the edges.

PVC edge - how to glue it step by step at home

To work you will need:

iron or hair dryer,
and of course buy PVC edges with glue
hard roller,
newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated to make the glue sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the “Synthetic” mode.

The profile is applied to the end so that it overlaps the end of the section.
Next, the iron is used to heat again through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is underway It is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along its entire length.

Gluing using a hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end the desired area, clamp and gently smooth.
Gluing with Moment glue. This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the end is checked manually, sawdust, debris, and dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After this, apply and press. Using a roller, roll the area so that the glue sets faster.

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, apply glue to the area again and clamp the profile using a roller or manually.

Since the width of PVC edges is usually taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess along the edges. To do this, use a regular stationery knife or file. Take it with both hands and press on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts break off and an edge remains that matches the width of the area.

Shutdown

After everything is glued, all that remains is to sand the uneven surfaces with sandpaper.

How to glue an edge to chipboard - description

Melamine edge is best option for use at home when it is necessary to restore old furniture With minimal costs. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality materials.

Let's consider how to glue edges to chipboard tabletops at home.

EXCELLENT VIDEO ON THE TOPIC

For work you will need the following materials:

skin,
sharpened blunt knife,
wallpaper roller,
melamine edge,
hair dryer or iron.

Algorithm of actions:

choose the operating mode of the iron so that it does not heat up too much and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
Process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, remove irregularities,
measure the profile,
heat it with an iron and press it tightly to the area using a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, “Moment” glue),
cut off the overhanging edges of the edge with a knife.

It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly bending the material. Then all that remains is to sand the edges so that there are no burrs or irregularities left.

If the cut of the edge and the chipboard part itself are slightly different, stain will help correct the difference.

If the part has a complex shape and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material evenly the first time. In such a situation, it is worth turning to professionals so as not to damage the product.

Types of edging glue

Which glue to choose for edges

Professionals furniture production actively use hot melt adhesives for edges. They are convenient if production will be put on stream, and it is required as high quality results and fast speed.

Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means they become very elastic when heated and quickly harden when cooled.

The ethylene polymer with vinyl acetate included in the adhesive is responsible for these properties.

The disadvantage of using it is the need to use special equipment, namely appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.

IN living conditions PVC glue is often used, which adheres well paper materials To various surfaces. Homogeneous without lumps light color The mass glues surfaces well, but is afraid of moisture. Does not require application additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for use by non-professional craftsmen.
Will fit universal adhesives“Moment” and “88-lux”, which will reliably glue the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
Among professional furniture adhesives for edges, it is worth noting products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing material using the soft-forming method (if the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

Source: http://kakkley.ru/kak-kleit-kromku-nadsp-pvh/

Discover secrets about the countertop

Hello, dear reader! Here are the secrets:

1. Countertop materials2. Tabletop dimensions3. How to glue and finish the edge4. All about connecting strips5. How to secure a kitchen countertop6. Repair and replacement of countertops7. How to make a tabletop with your own hands

Tabletop materials

The market for materials for the production of countertops is very large. Today, the first place is occupied by a countertop made of moisture-resistant laminated chipboard with a plastic coating. It maintains its leadership thanks to its low price and reliability.

Manufacturers exaggerate specifications. And the housewives decide that the material is immortal. They don't use cutting boards. Scratches appear, and then they take on ugly shapes. Use cutting boards and you will double the life of the coating.

Second place fake diamond. A huge selection of colors and ease of processing make it possible to realize the most creative idea. This is a dense surface that allows you to maintain sterile cleanliness. Essentially it is a solution of stone chips and bonding resins.

Withstands damage well. In this case, the surface can be easily restored; it is enough to polish it. If you order a table made of acrylic stone, you should use coasters for hot dishes. Due to the weak heat resistance of acrylic.

In third place is natural stone. The most commonly used are basalt and granite. Due to the porous structure of marble, it is used less frequently. The advantages are, of course, monolithic and reliable design, which is very difficult to damage at home.

beauty natural stone cannot be compared with any designer’s fantasies, and its eco-friendly cleanliness will fill your room with health. The disadvantages are, of course, the high cost of the material and its heavy weight.

Metal countertops are not popular. The smooth surface of which cannot be restored. It is better to use ribbed or corrugated. Designers use metal countertops in modern and high-tech styles due to their rectangular shape.

Glass tabletops have recently begun to be decorated kitchen sets. And during this time, their strength, as well as the likelihood of making any shapes, applying any design, soldering in various decorative elements, attracted the attention of buyers.

Wooden countertops. The warmth of a living tree cannot be compared with the dead structure of an artificial base. Hardwoods are used: oak, beech, larch, alder. Besides beauty this material can't boast of anything.

Tabletop dimensions

Standard kitchen countertop length, from domestic producers, is 3050 mm, width 600 mm. There is a width of 800 mm and 1200 mm. Moisture-resistant tabletop thickness 38 mm, less popular a budget option 26 mm.

Foreign manufacturers supply countertops with a length of 4100 mm and a thickness of 38 mm. Dimensions are for countertops with plastic coating. As for other materials, size restrictions are set by the dimensions of the headset and production capacity.

How to glue and finish an edge

We pick up the plastic edge with glue that we purchased along with the tabletop. We break off a piece of tape with a margin of length and heat the glue with a hairdryer, roll the edge to the bare end, through a thick rag or after wearing cotton gloves.

Using a triangular file, with sharp short movements, from the outside inwards at an angle, we cut off the excess edge. Each time, more and more carefully. Finally, using fine sandpaper or a sanding sponge, we bring the processing to perfection.

Within walking distance of you, there is a service for calculating cabinet furniture.

Table top slats

There are end (non-stick), connecting T-shaped and connecting strips at an angle of 90 degrees. The strips are produced for countertops with a thickness of 26 and 38 mm, as well as for countertops with a postforming radius; the front side part is framed with plastic, which is touched during cooking with a 5 mm belly and 10 mm. mm, the thickness of the bar itself is 0.6 mm.

The planks should be fastened to the 16th self-tapping screws PZ 1. They have a small head that can easily be hidden in a hidden recess under the head of the self-tapping screw for fastening the plank. Before attaching the planks, I recommend treating the end with sealant. To protect against moisture penetration.

If you can't find similar screws, you can use small furniture nails with a decent head. But under no circumstances should we tighten any screws that come to hand, because they will create a gap and the tabletops will not fit tightly together.

How to secure a tabletop

It is enough to tighten it with screws through fastening strips lower cabinets. The whole trick is that the cabinets are leveled and pulled together, so the tabletop feels like a single monolith, tightly pulled to them.

There is one more point: the installation of the table should begin by first drilling the fastening strips with a drill with a diameter of 5 mm. And finally, in the cabinet under the sink, in which the design does not allow the use mounting strips, I use mounting angles.

Repair and replacement of countertops

First, I want to warn you that repairing the countertop is impossible. Exceptions are countertops made of artificial stone. In other cases, it will be unprofitable to update the table with your own hands; it will be cheaper to replace the countertop.

To replace the kitchen worktop, you will have to remove the wall plinth and lower the lower modules using adjustable legs. Then we dive into the cabinets and unscrew the screws from the mounting strips.

Now all attention is paid to the dimensions of the old countertop. We carefully measure and transfer the size to new table, taking into account all the gaps in the walls. We fasten the connecting strips and tighten them with self-tapping screws. Wall bead, it is better to use a new one.

How to make a tabletop with your own hands

I’ll tell you about a method in which I myself achieved good results. We will need a sheet of chipboard, plastic, contact adhesive and self-tapping screws. We cut the chipboard into two strips, with a margin of width. We tighten them together using thirtieth self-tapping screws.

We cut the plastic according to the size of the resulting workpiece and carefully glue it. We cut the workpiece to size. We cover the end with an aluminum edging. As a result, we have a tabletop custom size, any shape and color.

Clear level of the lower cabinets
We do not regret silicone
Be sure to use connecting strips
We use high-quality plinth

Conclusion

Source: https://bokovina.ru/sdelat-kuhnyu/sekrety-o-stoleshnice/

Furniture edging made of PVC and melamine: selection, types and gluing

If you make furniture yourself from laminated chipboard or MDF, then after cutting the sheets you need to protect their end parts, which will increase the service life of the product and give it a beautiful appearance. appearance. For this purpose, PVC furniture edges are often used, but there are other varieties. In this article we will talk about all the types, the need for edging and how to glue it yourself.

Why do you need an edge?

Self-adhesive furniture edge - a narrow strip of melamine, polyvinyl chloride, ABS plastic or other material. It protects and decorates the cut area. When producing cheap furniture from laminated chipboard, edging is simply necessary, as it protects people from exposure to harmful formaldehyde. In addition, it gives strength and protects the material from moisture getting inside.

Types of edges

The most popular types of furniture edges are:

Melamine edge with glue is the most budget-friendly, but not the highest quality type. It is afraid of humidity and may fall off over time (even without mechanical impact), cracks easily and wears off at the corners. The only plus is the pre-applied layer of adhesive, so melamine edging remains a popular option at home.

When purchasing furniture, it is important to pay attention to the quality of finishing of the ends. It is better not to buy furniture treated with melamine, as it will not last long.

Furniture edging made of PVC 2 and 0.4 mm is the best option. It is much more stable and durable. A thickness of 0.4 mm is usually used to process hidden places, and 2 mm is glued to the outer ends that will be visible. However, its application requires a special edge processing machine, so it is used only in production.
The edge made of ABS plastic is a more environmentally friendly analogue of the previous option, which is less common on sale.
Mortise T-profile - inserted into a milled groove at the end of the chipboard. It was popular in those days when a special machine for PVC edges was rare, and there were plenty of milling machines in the shops.

Mortise T-shaped edgeProfile C18

The C18 U-profile overlay is a good option because it can be used for chipboard at home. Usually the C18 U-profile is simply put on the end and glued to liquid nails. The downside is that the edges protrude a few millimeters, under which dirt gets clogged. On the other hand, this feature is very convenient if you do cutting chipboard with your own hands, large edges will hide uneven cuts and chips. This type is often used for homemade wardrobes.

For gluing on the machine, use a special hot melt adhesive for PVC edges. It is sold in granule form and becomes liquid when heated. The adhesive is applied to the tape either when heated or during the production of the tape.

Chipboard edges

To ensure that your countertop or cabinet edge is beautiful and durable, in the best possible way will order edging at production. This is usually done in the same place where laminated chipboards are purchased and ordered.

Approximate prices for application (per 1 linear meter including material):

PVC edge 2 mm – 40 rub.;
PVC edging 0.4 mm – 25 rubles;
edge for melamine chipboard – 25 rubles;
You will have to pay additionally for processing curved sections.

The most popular PVC edge in Russia is Rehau, it has a wide selection color range, so you can choose a color to match any chipboard. The width of the tape varies - from 15 to 45 mm.

To order this service for a store, you must first prepare a diagram of how to glue the PVC edge: in what places to apply it and what thickness. Those places that will not wear out can be covered with 0.4 mm PVC to save money (for example, the back and bottom edges). All visible areas are treated with 2 mm PVC.

Where the joint will be attached to the joint with another part, no processing is needed. The difference between the PVC coating is 0.4 and 2 mm
Let's give an example.

On the internal inset shelf, only the front edge is treated with a layer of 2 mm.
The top cover is on all sides (the back edge is 0.4 mm, the rest - 2 mm).
The drawer front is processed on all sides with a thickness of 2 mm.

To simplify calculations, you can use special furniture programs; they create a project automatically. As a result, to assemble an average wardrobe, a PVC edge for chipboard will cost 1.5-2 thousand rubles. It won't be very cheap, but it will be of high quality, safe and durable.

Glue the edge yourself

For those who want to save money, there is a melamine edge with glue that is glued with an iron. This option is quite suitable for repairing old furniture - there is no need to carry several small boards to the workshop.

To solve the question of how best to glue the edge to the tabletop, it is better not to be lazy and contact the manufacturer, or still use an overlay profile, since melamine will quickly deteriorate from moisture and abrasion.

An old Soviet iron or a hair dryer is best suited for gluing. The iron thermostat is set to approximately 2.5 position. In addition, you will need a rag, a knife, fine sandpaper and a stand for fixing the parts.

The part is fixed and the edge is cut off with a margin of a few centimeters. Then it is applied and carefully heated with an iron, in sections of about 40 cm. When it heats up well, the glue for the edge will melt and it will sag a little.
Immediately after this, you need to press the edge tape well with a rag. This is done quickly as it cools quickly.
When you're done gluing, you need to trim off the excess. First, cut off the end parts, and then those that go along. The knife must be held at an angle. In this case, the movement of the knife is directed towards the part, and not outward. For comfortable work You will need a sharp knife without burrs. When cutting off the excess, be careful not to cut off the corners.
For final finishing, go over the corners with sandpaper. For the edge to last longer, it should not cling when touched.

You can also remove old edge tape using an iron. To do this, it is heated and pryed with a spatula or knife. In this video you can see how to glue a 2 mm edge at home:

Additionally, you need to cover the ends of the kitchen countertops with a special metal nozzle with a sealant to prevent moisture from getting inside, then the countertop will not swell (see the article on how to assemble a kitchen).

To achieve a really good result, it is still better to order factory edging. The overpayment will not be too large, but the durability will increase significantly. Now on sale you can find almost any color of tape to imitate wood or a plain version.

RemBoo » Furniture » Types and process of gluing furniture edges made of PVC, melamine onto chipboard

When making or repairing furniture, craftsmen have to finish the edge of the product. For this purpose, a special PVC end edge is most often used. Several popular methods of gluing the specified frame to chipboard are described below in this article.

How to install self-adhesive PVC edge

PVC-based edgebanding is sold in two versions. In the first version on her bottom part In the factory, a layer of glue is applied. In another version, the edge is sold without it, and you have to apply the glue yourself.

If the material has an adhesive layer, it should first be heated. After heat treatment, the glue will become sticky and the edge will easily stick into place. This is done using an iron, which needs to be switched to “synthetic” mode.

The edge is placed against the end to which it must be glued. In this case, the edge completely covers the end of the workpiece. Then carefully, using an iron, the edge is heated. But you shouldn't do it directly. It is better to iron the product through a layer of newspaper.

It is easy to glue this material. As it heats up, the glue dissolves and as soon as this happens, the iron moves further. The edge itself is pressed well against the workpiece and smoothed. This continues until the edge is glued to the part along its entire length.

Installing an edge using a heat gun

By the way, you can glue the edge without an iron. Sometimes it is more convenient to use a hair dryer. To do this, the edge needs to be heated with reverse side where there is a layer of glue. When the glue becomes sticky, the edge is put in place, pressed and smoothed.

How to glue PVC edge to "Moment"

If the product does not have an adhesive layer, you need to take “Moment” and apply it yourself. But before applying glue, you should check the end of the workpiece for quality. There should be no debris, dust or sawdust here. The end must be clean and strong.

The glue is applied to both surfaces at once. That is, on the edge of the PVC and on the end of the workpiece. However, there is no need to rush. You need to wait until the glue begins to set and only after that the edge can be properly glued into place.

When gluing the frame, it is pressed firmly against the workpiece and smoothed out. It wouldn't hurt to roll the edge with a hard roller.

How to remove excess edge

If the edge is properly glued the first time, you can proceed to the final stage. If not, repeat the procedure. You need to apply more glue to the problem area and press it firmly or roll it with a roller.

How to remove excess? The fact is that the frame is usually wider than the workpiece itself, so its excess width must be removed. This is done using a regular file by carefully chopping it off.

The file is taken with both hands and pressed with the flat of the file on the protruding edge. At the same time, it breaks off and becomes flush with the workpiece. The frame should be split towards the workpiece, and not away from it - this way there is less risk that the edge will be damaged. However, if the PVC edge was glued well, it rips perfectly and this part of the work never causes any special complications.

Final sanding of the material

To finish the job of gluing the PVC edge, you need to take fine sandpaper and sand out any imperfections, if any. All! The frame is glued and ready to use.

You will learn about what types of edges there are, as well as methods for gluing them and how to glue the edges with an iron and hairdryer from this article.

The most common type is melamine edging with paper-based adhesive. Used for finishing interior areas of furniture. Available, inexpensive, but not the highest quality option. Does not tolerate moisture and wears out quickly. Easily glued at home with a simple iron.
T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped strip, it is inserted into a slot in the side of chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant and resistant to moisture. To glue PVC edging, you will need an edge processing machine, so using this type of edges at home is difficult.
ABS plastic is an eco-friendly option without chlorine. Valued for its resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subtypes - edges without glue and with glue.

Average cost of a profile per linear meter:

PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, products from the Rehau company are actively used, which offers a large selection of colors, as well as different tape widths from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that will calculate how much material is required for gluing the edges.

PVC edge - how to glue it step by step at home

To work you will need:

iron or hair dryer,
and of course buy PVC edges with glue
hard roller,
newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated to make the glue sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the “Synthetic” mode.

The profile is applied to the end so that it overlaps the end of the section.
Next, the iron is used to heat again through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along its entire length.

Gluing using a hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired area, clamped and gently smoothed.
Gluing with Moment glue. This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the end is checked manually, sawdust, debris, and dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After this, apply and press. Using a roller, roll the area so that the glue sets faster.

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, apply glue to the area again and clamp the profile using a roller or manually.

After everything is glued, all that remains is to sand the uneven surfaces with sandpaper.

Melamine edging is the best option for use at home when you need to restore old furniture at minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality materials.

Let's consider how to glue edges to chipboard tabletops at home.

EXCELLENT VIDEO ON THE TOPIC

For work you will need the following materials:

skin,
sharpened blunt knife,
wallpaper roller,
melamine edge,
hair dryer or iron.

choose the operating mode of the iron so that it does not heat up too much and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
Process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, remove irregularities,
measure the profile,
heat it with an iron and press it tightly to the area using a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, “Moment” glue),
cut off the overhanging edges of the edge with a knife.

It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly bending the material. Then all that remains is to sand the edges so that there are no burrs or irregularities left.

If the cut of the edge and the chipboard part itself are slightly different, stain will help correct the difference.

Types of edging glue

Furniture production professionals actively use hot melt adhesives for edges. They are convenient if production is to be put on stream and both high quality results and fast speed are required.

Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means they become very elastic when heated and quickly harden when cooled. The ethylene polymer with vinyl acetate included in the adhesive is responsible for these properties. The disadvantage of using it is the need to use special equipment, namely appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.

At home, PVC glue is often used, which glues paper materials well to various surfaces. The homogeneous, lump-free, light-colored mass glues surfaces well, but is susceptible to moisture. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for use by non-professional craftsmen.
Universal adhesives “Moment” and “88-lux” are suitable, which will reliably glue the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
Among professional furniture adhesives for edges, it is worth noting products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing material using the soft-forming method (if the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

In this article we will look at the simplest option - gluing a 2 mm edge with pre-applied hot glue. You can order such an edge either from the supplier or from the workshop. The increase in its cost will be 2-5 rubles per meter.

To glue such an edge we will need a technical hair dryer (heat gun), a router (preferably an edge cutter), a molding cutter, a sharp knife, a file and a cotton glove.

We fix the part vertically or horizontally - whichever is more convenient for you (it is advisable to fix it with clamps).

First, warm up the tip (about 5 cm) of the edge well so that the glue melts and the edge itself becomes soft.

We apply the edge and, warming the glue with a stream of air, together with the end of the part, smooth the edge with a gloved hand. Having warmed up an area about 10 cm long, put the hair dryer aside and iron the area more thoroughly, and so on each time. The main thing here is not to overheat the edge (an overheated edge bends easily - just on its own - and in this case, the places of kinks in the form of waves will remain visible).

We look at the glue seam again, heat the unglued areas with a hair dryer again (and you need to heat it from the front side, warming up the entire edge) and smooth it until it fits completely.

Let's move on to cutting off the overhangs. If you have an edge router, then everything is fine, but if you only have a universal manual one, then it will require modifications, because... You can’t place it on the edge of the workpiece - the overhang gets in the way.

I screwed a piece of laminated chipboard onto the sole, which allowed me to raise the sole on only one side.

Then, of course, I made myself a normal edger - that’s what I’ll use in the lesson.

Practice on scraps first to fine-tune the cutter cut, otherwise you risk damaging the laminate. Like this, for example:

We carefully move a milling cutter with a molding cutter (rounding radius 3 mm) along the surface of the workpiece, cutting off excess edges.

We turn it over to the other side and repeat all the manipulations of smoothing the jambs and cutting off the overhangs.

We cut off the remains from the ends in the following way: We apply pressure with a sharp knife along the edge, forming a scratch. We place the workpiece on the edge of the table along the scratch line, and then break it off moving downwards.

Or we cut off a piece from the end hacksaw blade(the main thing here is not to scratch the adjacent edge, perpendicular to the one being sawn off).

We clean up unevenness and roughness with a file.

The end result should be something similar. For clarity, a straight (short) piece of edge was glued on a machine, and a long piece (which covers the bend) was glued by hand. The difference is almost invisible.

Sections