How to properly insulate an external balcony. Do-it-yourself insulation of the internal wall of the loggia

We will find out how to properly insulate a loggia or balcony, decide on the method and materials, and talk about laying electrical wiring.

Apartments with additional space, which is a loggia or balcony, have a greater advantage in the eyes of owners of apartments without these premises. But how are these same loggias and balconies used? In summer you can put a light table and chairs there to breathe fresh air or simply string clotheslines and dry washed items.

How to insulate a loggia or balcony

• Glazing of the loggia
• Insulating the loggia floor
• Electrics on the loggia

With the onset of the first cold weather, balconies and loggias become places for storing various unnecessary belongings; with the first frosts, they allow you to do without a refrigerator and store perishable food without any problems. But square meters Living space today is expensive - why do we forget about “orphan” premises that can easily be converted into living rooms using modern insulating materials? Without delaying until “tomorrow”, we begin to insulate the loggia and balcony - the guide is in this article.

Questions that need to be resolved before starting work on insulating the loggia

First of all, you need to decide on the purpose of the future insulated room, whether it will be a study, a children's room or, for example, a room for sports training. To a large extent, this choice will depend on the size of the loggia, and to a greater extent on its width - if it is less than one and a half meters, then it will be too narrow for a study. The purpose of using the insulated loggia in the future depends on the layout of the electrical wiring, the positions and number of electrical outlets, and lighting fixtures.

Important: completely abandon the idea of ​​combining a loggia and an adjacent room by removing part of the wall between them!

This is the external wall of the building, which means it is load-bearing; there are no additional expansions of the opening in it, except, perhaps, by removing the frame and door frame(if the loggia is located behind the kitchen) it is strictly forbidden to do so! News channels periodically contain reports about the partial destruction of entire entrances in multi-story residential buildings due to the fact that the owner of one of the apartments intended to increase the living space by demolishing part of the load-bearing wall - don’t even think about it!

The reason why loggias freeze seriously in winter is due to the large glass area of ​​this room - after all, it was designed by architects for a clothes dryer, and not for a living space. It would seem that there is nothing complicated here - pawning a part window opening brickwork or facade plasterboard with a layer of insulation between its panels and the problem is solved.

But not everything is so simple - from the position of official government agencies, reducing the glazing area of ​​the loggia is an interference in the architectural appearance of the building, and therefore is not allowed. Glazing the balcony is another matter; it is permitted because it reduces the risk of fire from an accidental cigarette butt from the upper floors. Last years supervisory government agencies do not react in any way to these very interventions in the “architectural appearance”, but this does not mean that they will not continue to pay attention - it is better not to make serious changes to the existing glazing of the loggia.

Heat loss through the glazing of the loggia can be significantly reduced by installing modern double-glazed windows and carefully sealing the joints between new ones window frames, as well as frames and adjacent walls.

It is necessary to think about heating the loggia - if after insulation this room will be used as a full-fledged room in which a person is present long time, then you can’t do without it. The idea of ​​installing it on a loggia is tempting heating battery, powered from central system, but this is prohibited by municipal legislation.

The reason for the ban is this: when designing the building and its heating system, loggias were not taken into account, so installing a heating battery in these rooms will lead to a lack of temperature in the system to heat other apartments. As you can see, this is not a matter of heat theft at all, and your attempts to include the loggia area in the total heated area of ​​the apartment are guaranteed to be rejected by all authorities.

Installation of a water radiator on the loggia is allowed only if your apartment has individual system heating, i.e. it is heated from a boiler installed in it. The only option left is to heat the loggia with electric heaters - infrared, convection or using electric underfloor heating.

Preparing the loggia (balcony) for insulation

At this stage, the loggia room is completely cleared of everything that is stored in it - after cleaning it should become completely empty. The existing wooden frames with single glazing will then need to be removed as they will need to be replaced with modern ones. If the balcony has a metal fence, it needs to be cut off (you will need a grinder), instead of the old parapet, lay out a new one, made of light ceramic bricks or foam blocks.

The new parapet can be raised a little higher than the old fence, but not excessively - change the “architectural appearance”. Completely remove the floor covering of the loggia, if it is done tiles- you can leave it by cutting out part of the tile to accommodate the brick parapet.

Measure the dimensions of the free opening above the parapet, and you need to remove them using a building level - with the same heights on opposite sides, there may be a serious horizontal difference, i.e., opposite points may be on different heights from the horizontal floor level. Measure the corners and take dimensions from each of the walls, ceiling and floor, make a drawing with these dimensions - it will come in handy.

Glazing of the loggia

Depending on the purposes of insulation and the temperatures of the cold season, new frames can be with one glass or with double-glazed windows of two or three glasses with a heat-reflecting film inside. The frames themselves can be aluminum, wood or plastic reinforced from the inside with a galvanized metal profile.

A glazing opening measurer will give you measurements and recommendations for glazing the loggia; he will also perform all measurements - take into account at least one window in the total glazing area for ventilation of the insulated loggia in the future.

Warn the measurer that you need free vertical areas between the outer frames and the wall about 70 mm wide on each side, i.e. the frames on the sides of the glazed skylight should not be located close to the walls.

Subsequent insulation of the walls of the loggia will require attaching a layer of insulation, a metal profile or a wooden beam to them and subsequent finishing cladding, so the walls will move slightly inside the loggia - if you install double-glazed windows close to the walls, then the side profiles of the frames will be “recessed” into the insulated wall. In the free areas between the frames and the wall, a beam will be installed and two layers of insulation will be laid (before and after the beam).

During the installation of new glazing, require the contractors to install a special strip on the outside plastic tape, its width can be from 30 to 70 mm. And one more thing - despite the adhesive layer on the back side of the strip, you should attach it to the frame using short screws with a pitch of 500 mm, because over time the glue will dry and the strip will certainly come off.

Insulating the loggia floor

There are two main ways to do this: lay the insulation directly on the floor, lay the main covering on top; Place the logs, insulation and subfloor base on top of them, and the main covering on top. If it is possible to simplify the task and not raise the floor on wooden logs, we lay only roofing felt, glue its joints with sealing tape and, if the height of the floor to the threshold of the loggia door allows, lay the base of the floor from chipboard or OSB boards, impregnated with drying oil and further drying. In this case, we will not lay insulation, since there is no room for it.

Penofol or Penoplex are most often used as a heat and vapor barrier in the process of insulating a loggia or balcony; the first insulation consists of foamed polyethylene, the second - from extruded polystyrene foam. Having good thermal insulation characteristics, easy to use and virtually waste-free, both of these materials are not recommended for use in residential premises.

The reasons are as follows: despite the declared flammability classes, according to which these insulation materials do not burn and do not support combustion, their manufacturers are being dishonest - “Penofol” and “Penoplex” smolder well, releasing a significant amount of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. It is better to protect the residents of the apartment and the entire house as much as possible from such consequences of fire by using only mineral wool-based insulation.

So, to lay an insulated floor on a loggia we will need: roofing material, which is enough to cover the area of ​​the loggia floor with a slight overlap on the walls; a roll of self-adhesive tape-sealant of the “Guerlen” type; wooden beam 50 mm wide for placing joists; rolled mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm; flooring for the base of the floor (sheets of chipboard, OSB 20 mm thick); finishing coated floors (linoleum, laminate).

The floor surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and roofing felt is laid on top of it in one layer. The joints between sheets of roofing felt and between the roofing felt and the adjacent wall are covered with self-adhesive sealant tape. Logs are installed on top of the roofing material in increments of 500 mm, and the timber under them is selected with a height that will allow the plane of the new floor to be brought to the level of the door threshold. When determining the height of the timber for the logs, take into account: the thickness of the roofing material (usually 5 mm), the thickness of the slabs under the floor base, and the thickness of the finishing floor covering.

The logs are aligned to the building level and connected to each other by bars of smaller thickness. The logs should not be properly fastened at this stage - their structure will have to be disassembled for treatment against rotting. To obtain a perfectly horizontal floor surface, you will need to place small support boards under the joists; they should not be attached to the floor, as the roofing material will be damaged.

In the design of some balconies, the slabs that form the floor are sloped towards the side of the fence to remove rainwater - differences of up to 90 mm horizontally between the inner and outer sides of the floor slab are possible. Take this into account when setting lags.

After bringing the upper plane formed by the logs to a horizontal level, it is necessary to disassemble the entire structure and treat the timber with oxol drying oil to protect it from rotting. After waiting for the drying oil layer to be completely dry, paint brush, we collect the logs again, this time we need to fasten them together with the greatest care. The slabs chosen for the base of the floor also need to be covered with a layer of drying oil on both sides and along all ends.

Having completed the treatment with drying oil, drying and placing the logs, we proceed to laying the mineral wool insulation, for which it needs to be cut into blocks according to the size of the compartments between the installed logs. Mineral wool is easily cut with a regular joiner's saw; while working with it, you need to wear a bandage or a respirator - small particles of mineral wool will break off and rise into the air when cutting and laying.

At the next stage after laying the insulation, the base plates are installed on the joists and secured to them with wood screws. Further work on the flooring is stopped at this stage - first it is necessary to complete the insulation and finishing work of the ceiling and walls. During work on the ceiling and walls, the surface of the rough floor base is covered with two layers of PVC film, secured along the contour with masking tape.

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - the initial stage

Inspect the surfaces of the ceiling and walls for cracks and falling plaster, tiles, unstitch all weak seams, then fill them with foam, seal the top with sealant tape.

Nand the next stage is the installation of wooden beams with a cross-section of 40x50 mm (pre-treated with drying oil) on the walls and ceiling. The beam is placed across the walls and ceiling in increments of 500 mm, the installation begins at the junction of the planes of the ceiling and walls, i.e., at the junction points, the beam is attached to both the ceiling and the wall, close to each other. To fasten the timber, concrete screws are used with a pitch of 300 mm.

At this point, work on the walls and ceiling temporarily stops - then it’s the turn of the electricians.

Electrics on the loggia

As a rule, the old electrical wiring of a loggia is represented by a 2x1.5 aluminum wire in a common braid, designed for the simplest lamp with one 100 W lamp. For a full-fledged living space, such wiring is not suitable at all - we will install a new one.

First, you need to find out where the junction box is located in the room closest to the loggia - this issue should be clarified with an electrician at the local housing office or get a wiring diagram for your apartment from this office. If for some reason you don’t want to contact the housing office, then you can run new wiring from the electrical outlet closest to the loggia, drilling a channel from it to the wall between the loggia and the room, then drill a hole through this wall. Detailed description For this process, see our article.

For wiring to the loggia, you can use an aluminum cable, for example, APPV 2x2.5 or 3x2.5, if grounding is expected (in residential buildings, most often there is no grounding). You can use a VVG 2x1.5 copper cable - it will be better. Electrical cable must be placed in a PVC corrugated hose designed to completely prevent fire from a short circuit.

Accordingly, the channel for laying the cable must have sufficient width and depth to accommodate the corrugated hose (a corrugated hose with a diameter of 16 mm is suitable for one cable). In turn, the drilled hole in the wall to the loggia must accommodate a metal tube through which, according to the rules for electrical wiring, the cable to the loggia is passed.

At the exit from the hole into the loggia room, the cable is again threaded through the corrugated hose and inserted into the internal installation box - the place for it is determined and prepared in advance; to secure it, it is necessary to install a wooden embed (a board of sufficient size) and secure it to the wooden sheathing.

It is most convenient to place the junction box on the wall separating the loggia from the adjacent living room, 250 mm from the existing ceiling (without insulation and finishing). A corrugated hose with an electrical cable inside is threaded between the wall and the beam attached to it; if necessary, holes slightly larger than the diameter of the corrugated hose are drilled in the areas where the beam and the wall meet. Holes are drilled in the embedded boards for the electrical cable outlet.

Decide on the installation locations of electrical sockets and switches, the installation location of the lamp(s), heating device, hung on the wall - at each installation point of electrical installation products and electrical appliances mounted on the wall, it is necessary to install mortgages to which these electrical appliances will be attached in turn.

The cable in places where electrical installation products are installed and in junction boxes is brought out to a greater length than is actually necessary - 70 mm, which will make it possible to replace the electrical device in the future if necessary. In no case should the exposed ends of the wiring extend beyond the electrical installations and junction boxes!

Important: all switches and sockets mounted on an insulated loggia must be for external installation only.

Important: connect the electrical cable supplying power from the living quarters to the loggia with the cables supplying power to sockets and switches in a junction box only through the DIN rail of the terminal block - no twisting!

Having finished installing the electrical wiring, turn off the general power supply to the apartment and connect the loggia wiring in the junction box of the living room or in the outlet to which the channel was drilled. Connection in any version (junction box or socket) is made through a terminal block (DIN rail).

Please note that direct contact of copper and aluminum cables when twisted will cause heating of the aluminum wire, which can lead to a fire - the mediation of the terminal block with steel contacts will eliminate heating and the threat of fire. Use the terminal block in any case, even if the apartment wiring is made entirely of copper cable. If there is no DIN rail in the old junction box in the room, purchase and connect the electrical cables through it.

So, all work on laying electrical wiring to the loggia is completed - turn on the power supply to the apartment and make sure that all electrical installations have power. Next, we seal the grooved channel in the living room and again begin to insulate the loggia.

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - continue

Let's return to insulating the walls and ceiling of the loggia. The beam is already fixed, it’s time to lay mineral wool and vapor barrier, you will need knitting wire. We cut the mineral wool into blocks of width equal to the areas between the timber on the walls and the ceiling; we begin laying it from the ceiling - you will need an assistant.

The tools you need are a construction stapler with 12 mm staples - we use them to fasten the end of the binding wire to the edge of the beam, lay the insulation and hold it with the wire, bringing it out between two adjacent wooden blocks in a zigzag manner, securing each sharp corner with a stapler staple.

Having finished laying the insulation on the ceiling, we move on to the external walls - the wall between the loggia and the living room does not need to be insulated, because it is already “warm”, but the timber is attached to it in the same way as on the external walls. Therefore, try to place electrical installation products on this particular wall - it will not need to be insulated and covered with a vapor barrier film, which means there will be no difficulties with placing insulation under the embedded board for an electrical outlet or switch.

A vapor barrier film must be placed on top of the insulation, slightly stretched and secured - it must be applied to the surface, secured to the top beam and then along the perimeter of the walls (ceiling). Installation of the film should begin from the ceiling plane. In the areas where the walls and ceiling meet, it is necessary to overlap the film fixed to the walls by approximately 50 mm. In those places where electrical installation products are located, the film is slightly cut and wrapped around the cable going to the product, i.e. the electrical cable is pushed through it.

Important: installation of a vapor barrier film is mandatory, otherwise the wooden beam will rot and the mineral wool will sag under the influence of moisture penetrating in the form of steam from the room. Water vapor will be formed due to high pressure indoors and be attracted to external walls, the partial pressure outside of which is lower due to the lower temperature of the cold season.

Finishing walls, ceilings and floors

Walls and ceiling can be finished various coatings- plastic or MDF panels, plasterboard or lining. For flooring, you can use laminate, linoleum, or save money and simply cover the base of the floor with two layers of varnish or paint.

The final covering should begin with the ceiling, then the floor covering and only after that the wall covering. After installing the floor covering, its entire surface should be covered again with PVC film to protect it from damage during wall covering. A hole is cut in the wall covering in the area where the wiring box is installed; in the places where electrical installation products are installed, only holes are cut for the electrical cable - I remind you that all sockets and switches must be outdoor installation, i.e. protruding completely above the plane of the wall covering.

After finishing the cladding of the external walls of the loggia, the sockets and switches are connected to the cable supplying power to them and mounted in their places.

Work on insulating the loggia ends with the installation of the plinth and, in the case of sheathing with plastic or MDF panels, butt strips on all edges and corners formed by the wall and ceiling coverings.

If you intend to replace existing door loggia to a new one, then its installation must be carried out before laying the logs or the base of the floor and before installing the timber on the walls.published

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If your apartment or house has a balcony, then you should definitely use it, since it is an additional, and sometimes simply necessary, area. If you approach the issue with imagination and think through all the nuances, you can end up with a small but very cozy room. In order for a balcony to serve as a room, it must be insulated. How to insulate the balcony inside is decided by each owner independently, taking into account his financial capabilities and pressing needs. But a few words should be said about the nuances of the process and the materials used to insulate the balcony. You need to choose these materials very carefully and pay attention to all the characteristics.

You need to start mastering any balcony with an objective assessment of its condition. If the apartment is located in a new building that has recently been handed over to residents, then you need to pay attention to the material from which the balcony structure is made. Also, in new houses, you need to pay attention to what the neighbors’ balconies are decorated with. Often in such houses neighbors try to adhere to the same style.

We make masonry from foam blocks

But if the balcony is in a far from new apartment and has always been used as an open space, then work will have to start with strengthening the balcony. Strengthening includes both the reconstruction of the concrete balcony platform and the strengthening of the metal handrail. Also, this process may include such an event as strengthening the lower part of the upper balcony; this must also be taken into account. After solving all these issues and choosing the material for the outer cladding of the loggia (balcony), you can move on to interior decoration. To simplify this stage, you can lay a wall of bricks or foam blocks up to half of the balcony, directly to the double-glazed windows. This will save on insulation.

Advice: If all stages of insulation are carried out at the same time, then it is better to immediately install double glass in the windows, since one glass gives 70% more heat loss in cold weather.

Preparing for insulation

To begin insulating the inside of the balcony with any materials, you need to make preparations. Having chosen the material for insulation, you need to create a special wooden sheathing under it, on which it will then be attached. The exception is rolled materials that can be mounted under the sheathing. This frame is made of beams with a cross-section of about 4-5 cm. Transverse and perpendicular beams must be fastened so that squares of 50 by 50 cm are obtained. The sheathing can also be made of a metal profile, but this material is somewhat more expensive than wooden beams. The main advantages of a metal frame are lightness of construction and ease of use.

Note: When calculating the required insulation for a balcony inside, you need to take into account not only the dimensions of the walls, but the floor and ceiling, since these two positions also need insulation.

Material selection

Insulation is placed in the sheathing on the inside of the balcony, which can be:

Foam insulation is one of the most common methods of thermal insulation of balconies and loggias

Styrofoam. The cheapest of these materials is simple white foam, 5 cm thick. If you are insulating a room in cold latitudes, you can take thicker polystyrene foam; it can reach a thickness of up to 10 cm. It can be easily cut into required amount parts, and you can not additionally strengthen them with anything, but immediately lay them in the cells of the sheathing under the finishing materials. The material is absolutely safe both when working with it and during subsequent use. The insulation is completely odorless and does not emit toxic substances, and styrene vapors in small quantities do not affect human health. Installation of the material occurs without the formation of dust.

Insulation mineral wool

Mineral wool. Mineral wool is a little more expensive, but its sound insulation properties are much higher, so if you need to get rid of extraneous sounds, it is better to use it. This material is completely natural and completely fireproof. The combustion temperature of mineral wool starts from a thousand degrees. The inconvenience of laying mineral wool briquettes lies in the mandatory compliance with safety precautions. The material contains small glass particles that cause itching of the skin. Installation must be carried out in protected special clothing, safety glasses and a respirator.

Expanded clay. The material is an environmentally friendly insulation. The word “expanded clay” is translated from Greek as “burnt clay”. The material is often used for insulation of floors and ceilings. It is not entirely profitable for them to insulate the walls, since they additionally need to prepare a metal mesh as a support.

Installation high-quality double-glazed windows plays a big role in insulating a balcony or loggia. - you will find the answer here.

Penofol. This material is one of the thermal insulation products that has a reflective effect. It is a layer of foamed self-extinguishing polyethylene with closed air pores. Aluminum coated High Quality, 14 microns thick and 99.4% pure on one or both sides. Penofol is a universal material with steam, hydro, wind and sound insulation properties. The material has the appearance of a thin, flexible, light and environmentally friendly structure. It can be used as an additional vapor barrier; it is very convenient to work with, since it is sold in rolls and is easy to cut even with ordinary scissors. This material protects the room from external moisture and eliminates condensation from the room.

Penoplex. It is a new material specially designed for room insulation. The material is very convenient to install due to its light weight, so its use on the balcony is now relevant. It is produced in the form of rectangular slabs of different thicknesses, which are easily cut with a stationery knife. It is also possible to produce “sandwich panels” using the casting method. Insulation with a rough surface makes it easy to attach and glue them to other materials.

Izolon

Izolon. It is also a universal material in terms of use. Confirmed safety for use as insulation and vapor barrier element. Excellent soundproofing characteristics.

The degree of thermal conductivity compares:

• with 15 cm brickwork
• with 4.5 cm wood
• with 4.5 cm mineral wool
• with 1.2 cm polystyrene foam

Reduces noise by at least 18 dB.

These are the main materials for creating an insulating layer, which are now easy to find in any hardware store. We hope you now have more information about How can you insulate a balcony from the inside?, and then we’ll look at how to do this.

How to insulate

One of optimal methods laying of insulation is layer-by-layer laying:

• First, the surface is waterproofed
• Next goes in layers selected insulating material, which is also secured with appropriate fasteners. These can be nails, screws, plastic fasteners with wide heads.
• Then a vapor barrier is laid, which is secured with a construction stapler.
• At the final stage, finishing material is attached to the sheathing using special fastening materials.

Sheets of foam plastic are installed in the sheathing, and the joints are covered with polyurethane foam

The result should be a layer approximately 60 - 70 mm thick, this is the distance from the outer layer to the finishing layer. Depending on climatic conditions, this size may vary. You must understand that any layer of insulation requires financial costs and labor, so it is better to immediately build a balcony conscientiously and not try to save on trifles.

In a situation with insulating the floor on the balcony the sequence is also the same. If it is decided to fill the floor with concrete, then expanded clay is laid first and the solution is distributed on top of it. The concrete solution must be carefully distributed using a special rule and try to make the surface as smooth as possible. Then on such a surface you can lay ceramic tiles or other finishing materials. Under finishing you can lay rolled heated floors, and this will provide additional insulation of the room.

Video instructions for self-installation of a plasterboard ceiling are available at this address

If you choose the option of a wooden floor, then guide logs are first laid, between which the insulation is laid. Then a finishing board or chipboard is laid on the logs. Laying chipboard is necessary if laminate or linoleum will be installed further. It is also worth noting that under the laminate it is necessary to lay special substrate, which will provide additional thermal insulation. When the finishing of the walls and floors is completed, skirting boards are installed to hide the joints of the finishing.

In the complex of works on insulating a balcony, it is necessary to pay attention to the ceiling. The insulation process is carried out according to the same scheme as walls and floors. The task will be complicated when the balcony or loggia is on the top floor and there is no ceiling. In this case, you need to take into account the additional costs of installing the ceiling and roof.

When working on insulating a balcony, you should not fuss and rush, this can lead to unreasonably high consumption material. If you approach the matter carefully and carry out constant calculations, you can acquire a full-fledged additional room for little money.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside video

We invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article “Insulation for a balcony inside - choosing materials,” which shows in detail the entire process of insulating a balcony using penoplex and penofol.

Notorious housing problem has been troubling us since the times when Adam and Eve were expelled from paradise. “What does heaven and balconies have to do with it?” - the reader will ask. And despite the fact that the balcony is a structural component of our home. And the solution to the question: the better way to insulate a balcony or loggia , may, in the end, bring either heavenly pleasure or a headache due to wasted money, time and effort. After all, correctly selected insulation will turn your balcony (loggia) into additional cozy square meters, expand the space of the apartment and reduce the energy consumption of this area to preserve heat in the winter.

First, let's look at what types of insulation for balconies and loggias exist. Then we compare them, highlight the advantages and disadvantages, after which you can determine which insulation would be better suited in your case.

Common types of insulation for balconies and loggias

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is widely used in insulating balconies and loggias due to its ease of installation and relative cheapness.

Mineral wool (basalt wool, wool made from natural fibers (linen) containing polyester (up to 15%)) - good quality, modern look noise and heat insulation, used in insulation of roofs, walls, ceilings, balconies and facades. For roofing, roll type wool with a density of 25-35 kg/m3 is most often used. But for the facade it is better to choose denser insulation up to 70-90 kg per meter, which will ensure minimal shrinkage of vertical surfaces.

The mineral wool or basalt insulator used in insulating loggias or balconies has shown excellent results. It can also be used as protection against moisture by laying a water barrier. The thickness is chosen according to the temperature conditions of a particular region, but usually no more than 100 mm. Mineral wool should be secured under the finishing layer (plastic, drywall) using slats or counter-slats.

One of the disadvantages this insulation is wetting of the material. Only natural flax wool ensures vapor permeability and stable operation when partially wet.

Brief characteristics of mineral wool ISOVER Classic Plus 50 mm:

Depending on the manufacturers, cutting and technical specifications may vary.

Extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam

Foam plastic - universal insulation for balconies and loggias

Extruded polystyrene foam (foam) is a widely used thermal insulation material with a homogeneous structure and closed cells. Almost does not absorb moisture (up to 0.1% per 1 cubic meter per day) and does not react strongly to exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Foam plastic has differences in density and is mainly used in insulating technical premises.

The material for insulating the balcony should be a heat insulator with an optimal flammability class, or better yet, one with non-flammable additives. Moreover, the market offers all kinds of types and classes of insulators.

Scope of application and some characteristics of Extraplex 50 mm polystyrene foam:

How to insulate a loggia or balcony? Choosing the right brand is easy; the main thing is to consider the criteria by which the material is selected. If you have a small balcony, materials on which you can apply a decorative layer are suitable. For example, bark beetle type plaster. Expanded polystyrene is perfect for this, but you should remember the “dew point” and only use high-quality glue for slabs.

The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is the release of the harmful substance styrene when heated above 40 degrees Celsius. Therefore, it is best to insulate a balcony from the outside with such material.

Expanded polystyrene can also be mounted on construction foam. IN Lately This method of fastening is often used. The foam, expanding, leaves no gaps, filling all the cracks well. And when installing a heated floor, you can lay polystyrene foam under a heating element, gluing it directly to the floor of the balcony.

Advice: on the balcony it is better to do coating or other waterproofing of the walls, ceiling and all connections (windows, doors), since balconies are usually most susceptible to leaks. A hydrobarrier can also be used as a moisture insulator.

Penofol

Penofol - modern insulation, used for insulation, including balconies and loggias

Penofol is a thin modern insulation material that is also suitable for insulating balconies or loggias. More than three modifications are available.

Saving space is priority number two in all installation and finishing works. This is where penofol comes to the fore.

Type "A" - used both in combined insulation of external walls from the inside (expanded polystyrene plus penofol), and in independent version, using 10 mm thick material. The product, consisting of polyethylene foam, with a reflective layer on one side, provides excellent service for many years.

Type "B"- foil material with two reflective surfaces is more used when additional insulation floors, both under screed in rooms and as a substrate on balconies and loggias under warm floors. The high performance and reflective qualities of such an insulator have proven themselves to be excellent.

Type "C"— self-adhesive product, with a one-sided reflective layer, easy to install on walls and ceilings. The requirements for surfaces for such insulation are minimal: cleanliness (dust removal) and evenness of the surface (can be glued to concrete). Do not forget to thoroughly prime the insulated areas.

Type "ALP" It has both a reflective layer and a protective polyethylene membrane.

If, for example, you want to install additional pipes for floor heating in a loggia, the “ALP” type of penofol is laid as a reflective layer under the pipes and screed. Protective film This material does not react with the raw solution when pouring the screed. Then, having made mesh reinforcement (usually brand VR-1) and placed beacons or guides, we pour the solution. Don't forget about aluminum tape for gluing seams and junctions. It is better to wrap the edges of the penofol on the walls, approximately 80 mm.

Important: pipes that are laid as a heating element should be under a pressure of 5-7 atmospheres when pouring. This measure will prevent the base from rupturing in the future and will relieve tension in the thickness of the material when heated (there is room for expansion). Installing a pressure gauge in the system will make it possible to monitor the indicators and tell you if there are any leaks in the system.

And the screens for additional batteries on the balcony are best glued with type “C” penofol, with a reflective layer inward towards the battery.

Briefly about the properties of penofol:

What is the best way to insulate a balcony?

Before deciding how to insulate a balcony or loggia, you need to understand which side to use the insulation on and where. At the same time, glazing the balcony is a mandatory step, otherwise, what’s the point of insulating it if everything is ventilated.

The balcony can be insulated:

• below (floor);
• above (ceiling);
• from inside (wall);
• outside (also walls).

Insulating the floor of a balcony or loggia

The better the material for insulating the balcony, the better the microclimate of the enclosed space will be maintained. In light of recent trends, it is strongly recommended to insulate the floor on the balcony. This will give energy-saving heat savings of 20 to 40%, depending on the type of insulation. The costs will pay for themselves, especially if you plan to convert the balcony into an additional room.

Insulation methods:

• using insulating materials;
• "warm floor" system.

Insulation materials:

Mineral wool

The advantage is low cost and ease of installation. Disadvantage - over time it cakes and loses its insulating qualities. If you do not correctly calculate the thermal insulation layer (this is a completely separate topic of conversation), you may not achieve the desired effect.

Styrofoam

Good, comfortable, cheap material. The disadvantage is that mice eat it. It will be necessary to take care of excellent tightness.

Expanded clay

Lightweight, cheap, eternal insulator, but cooler.

Penofol

Moderately expensive. Combines the qualities of mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Can be laid on an imperfectly flat surface. According to experts, it is one of the best thermal insulation materials for insulating balconies and loggias.

Penoplex

Also moderately expensive, a good heat insulator, but requires a very flat surface.

Warm floor system

Available in three versions:

Water floor

Connects to the central heating system. If you do not have individual heating, then this option is not suitable due to the lack of permitting legislation.

Electric

1. Cable.
2. Cable with reinforcing mesh.

Electric floors are effective when combined with self-leveling floors and tiles.

Film (infrared)

Installs without major repairs. A technically simple solution.

Attention: Film flooring cannot be used under tiles and screed. Can be used under linoleum or laminate.

Insulation of the ceiling of a balcony or loggia

It makes sense to insulate the ceiling on the balcony if your balcony is located on the top floor.

To insulate the ceiling on the balcony, the following materials are used:

• drywall;
• Styrofoam;
• penofol;
• penoplex (expanded polystyrene foam).

Do not forget that when insulating the ceiling, a reduction in the ceiling space is inevitable.

If you don’t want to do major insulation of the ceiling, then you can get by with decorated urethane foam tiles. In this case, there will be two advantages: an elegant ceiling with a small layer of insulation.

Insulation of the walls of a balcony or loggia

Before insulating the balcony walls, all holes and cracks must be sealed. Neglecting such a small thing as a gap in cold windy weather will result in loss of heat and lack of comfort.

The materials used for insulating the balcony are the same as for insulating the floor. This:

• expanded polystyrene;
• penoplex;
• penofol;
• mineral wool.

You can add here materials such as isover.This is a more modern fiberglass-based mineral wool. Available in rolls or sheets.

Another option - styrodur- This is green extruded polystyrene foam.

Insulation of walls can be carried out from the inside and outside. If you need to preserve the useful space of the balcony, it is recommended to carry out insulation from the outside, and only finishing work from the inside.

As in any other case, choosing external insulation has its advantages and disadvantages:

Choosing which insulation is right for you, what exactly to insulate a particular room with is not easy. The best way insulation will be combined.

Example: It is better to insulate the loggia ceiling and all walls with basalt wool mats, the floor with polystyrene foam, and use penofol as an additional sound-absorbing and heat-reflecting layer.

When choosing a material, remember that flammability class and environmental friendliness are perhaps the most important criteria.

So, taking into account the plans hatched for the further use of the balcony or loggia, time and financial possibilities, taking into account the recommendations received, you can now make a reasonable, informed decision on choosing insulation for your balcony or loggia.

Insulating a loggia can be due to several reasons: insulating the entire room or converting it into a functional work space.

To maintain heat in an apartment, many factors are taken into account, such as the side on which the loggia faces, what building materials the house was made from, and whether the neighbors’ loggias are glazed.

To insulate loggias, a variety of insulation materials are used: from the simplest to high-tech foam insulation. Due to the fact that the loggias have small area, then in order to save space it is better to give preference to thinner, more compact and lighter materials. Insulation with a width of at least 3 cm is used. If the loggia is combined with a room or kitchen, then the thickness of the insulation increases to 5 cm.

Materials for insulating loggias

The following materials can be used as insulation:

To insulate the loggia we will need

• insulation;
• facing material;
• polyurethane foam;
• glue;
• floor leveling mixture;
• waterproofing materials or mixtures;
• wooden slats;
• metallized tape;
• dowels;
• nails;
• screws with a wide head.

Others can also be used Additional materials depending on the finish.

We will need the following tools:

• electric drill;
• hammer drill with drill;
• hammer;
• construction knife;
• building level;
• brush or roller;
• spatulas.

When insulating, it is important to choose the right insulation so that you feel dry and there is no problem emerging condensate in an insulated loggia. The insulation must have low thermal conductivity, which affects the determination of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Must have breathability and moisture resistance.

Sequence of work when insulating a loggia

It is necessary to clean the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia from old facing materials. Large gaps in concrete loggias should be covered with concrete mixture.

Glazing

Installation of double-glazed windows, preferably double-chamber ones. It can be aluminum profiles, PVC profiles, windows from natural wood. Requires special attention window sill installation, since the front wall is the coldest place. The width of the window sill must be calculated before ordering. To do this, you need to know the thickness of the insulation and the thickness of the facing material, and also add 10 mm for unevenness.

Preparing the loggia

If necessary, dismantle the old balcony door and windows, in case of combining a loggia with a room. For a wider opening, part of the wall is knocked out. We must remember that combining the loggia is redevelopment, therefore, all actions must be coordinated with BTI.

1. Check the walls and floor again. All holes must be filled with foam. After the foam has dried on bottom part The walls must be coated with lubricating waterproofing.
2. Leveling the floor. Cement-sand mixtures are used.
3. Waterproofing to protect against moisture.

Floors, walls and ceilings are sheathed waterproofing material, such as roofing felt or expanded polyethylene film. This is necessary to ensure that condensation does not accumulate on the thermal insulation material. Ruberoid is laid overlapping, glued to the base, gluing the joints using gas burner. Instead of roofing felt and film, penetrating waterproofing is used, which is a thick mixture. It is applied with a roller or brush. You can also use polyurethane painting mastics.

Floor insulation

The floor should be warm, durable and light. There are several insulation options:

• the floor surface can be covered with expanded clay and a screed can be made;
• instead of expanded clay, you can glue a thermal insulation material (pressed foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam) to the floor, and glue a gypsum fiber sheet on top;
• place wooden logs, place the selected insulation in the empty space, then nail tongue-and-groove boards onto the logs;

Insulation of walls and ceilings

The choice of method for laying thermal insulation material depends on the subsequent finishing. If the front finish is in the form plastering and painting, then they either use gluing or use plastic fastenings when installing insulation. If the front decoration will be used plasterboard or lining, then installation occurs using fasteners. The foam board is applied to the wall from the corner, and a hole is drilled with an electric drill. Plastic fasteners are hammered into these holes, then the anchors are driven into the center of the caps. Penoplex boards are better put in a run, so that the slabs are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. This avoids movement and improves the insulation properties along the entire perimeter of the ceiling and walls.

Sheathing finishing material. Can be used for cladding moisture resistant drywall, rack or pinion wooden lining, Wall panels. A layer is left between the facing material and the insulation air 1.5 cm using an attached wooden sheathing that is attached to concrete wall self-tapping screws. On this frame they fix selected cladding: drywall, lining. When facing with plasterboard, the joints between the slabs are sealed with putty. Painting fiberglass mesh with small cells is also used. The ceiling can be made suspended, under which hide the wiring.

Flooring is laid on the floor. This can be a Euroboard up to 4 mm thick. Many people prefer to lay linoleum or carpet after laying wood flooring. When the option of floor insulation using a concrete screed is used, the system is installed electric floor heating. Withdraw central heating forbidden building codes. Or they use air heaters and electric fireplaces for heating. At individual heating can be installed indoors radiator under the window sill on the loggia.

Installation of baseboards, sockets and switches.

Thus, the insulation of the loggia will depend on the goal being pursued and on available budget.

Video instructions for insulating a loggia

We insulate the balcony from the inside correctly. 6 stages of work

Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only insulating the walls, the entire space must be airtight. Floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

Selecting a thermal insulator

Advantages and disadvantages are inherent to each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common thermal insulator options:

• Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
• Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
• Polyurethane foam (PPU);
• Styrofoam;
• Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw material:

An example of installing mineral wool on a loggia. The material is placed into the prepared structure. The mounting frame can be made of metal profiles or wooden blocks.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

The main disadvantage is that moisture is destructive; a vapor barrier is required.

Polymer-based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, foam plastic, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foam compounds.

Advantages:

• The presence of gas bubbles provides not only good level thermal insulation, but also light weight of the slabs;
• High degree of moisture resistance;
• The materials are durable;
• Antifungal resistance;
• Simplicity and convenience when laying slabs or sheets, as well as rolls (foamed polyethylene);
• An economical repair option, provided you choose polystyrene foam as insulation.

Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire and release harmful substances during the combustion process.

When choosing polystyrene foam and other polymer-based materials, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the slabs and determine the density

1. Foam sheets

Insulator slabs (expanded polystyrene) during installation.

Foam plastic refers to budget ways insulation of the loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, so lathing is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam boards (50 mm thick) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with polyurethane foam. Penoplex is attached using special disc-shaped dowels (“fungi”).

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator; foam polystyrene foam can also be used to provide vapor barrier. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, but many have managed to appreciate operational properties PPU. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation rates due to its fine-porous structure.

The main stages of work on insulating the loggia space

In order to increase the usable space in your home and use the premises all year round, you need to:

1. Seal gaps, if any. Carefully examine the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, cracks are filled with polyurethane foam, even if they are large.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim off the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Organize a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - “Penetron”, “Aquaton”, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or spray. This impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become as resistant to adverse weather as possible and their strength characteristics improve.

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, you should use special polymer membranes(“breathable”), as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.

Balcony room decoration

Goals for creating interior decoration:

• External masking of the heat insulator;
• Organization of a favorable indoor environment.

To create a balcony interior, you can choose various options finishing. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, gypsum board sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.

Lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed to a wooden frame-crate.

The walls of the loggia are covered with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

IN plastic panels There are grooves for connecting elements. The plastic version of the lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of gypsum board sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or covered with decorative plaster.

Decorating walls with wallpaper over gypsum board sheets.

Bamboo wallpaper. The base for finishing is plasterboard.

Video

1. The result of insulating the loggia.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical terminals. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. Use of penoplex with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, finishing the walls with putty. Concrete screed floor on top of insulation boards.

2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

Consistent process of arranging a room. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with polystyrene foam and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, OSB sheathing, installation of laminate slats.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: from a refrigerator to a warm island

To begin with, it’s worth saying that there are two ways to insulate a balcony – from the inside and the outside. External insulation, of course, is more convenient - precious centimeters of space are not “eaten up”, and the cladding of the balcony facade becomes more pleasant. But this is a labor-intensive process that requires the involvement of a construction team and industrial climbers. Therefore, in this article we will focus on how to properly insulate a balcony in an apartment from the inside - you can do this yourself.

To insulate the inside of the balcony, you first need to carry out preparatory work. They include several important steps:

• Where to start insulating a loggia or balcony? Free up space from everything unnecessary. It’s best if the balcony is completely empty: it’s much easier to work this way. Also, get rid of old trim in advance.
• Seal all the cracks - a lot of heat escapes through them. For small gaps, a weather-resistant sealant is suitable; fill larger ones with mounting foam - it will not only fill the voids, but will also serve as an additional heat insulator.
• To make it easier for you to carry out insulation work, it is important to smooth out cracks and irregularities in the walls and ceiling using cement mortar.
• If you plan to place light bulbs or lighting, it is worth taking care of the wiring in advance. To hide unsightly cables, place them in plastic boxes.
• Before starting work, cover the opening between the balcony and the adjacent room with film to prevent construction dust and other pollutants from entering the apartment.

Is it possible to insulate a balcony in winter? Yes, you can. Only when carrying out work in winter is it necessary to choose frost-resistant materials, in particular polyurethane foam.

How to insulate a balcony: what materials are best to choose

To understand how to insulate a loggia or balcony, let’s first figure out what properties the materials should have:

• high strength;
• fire safety;
• water resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• relatively low cost;
• ease of installation (if we want to do all the work ourselves).

Most often, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, etc. are used for insulation. Sometimes several of these materials are combined. We have reflected the pros and cons of each heat insulator in the table:

Which insulation for a balcony is better? The answer to this question depends on your preferences and financial capabilities. You can read more about the characteristics of insulation materials, as well as about insulating an apartment in general, in our blog.

How to properly insulate a balcony inside: choosing insulation

By insulating the balcony, you can achieve two goals at once: expand the living space and improve the degree of thermal insulation of the apartment. It is best to carry out external insulation, but this cannot be done without the services of industrial climbers and the corresponding costs. Insulating a balcony from the inside will cost much less, especially if you do it yourself.

How to insulate a balcony inside

The positive result of the work performed is considered equally comfortable temperature inside the room and the adjacent balcony. There is no point in investing effort and money in insulation that does not protect against the penetration of cold onto the balcony and forces you to tightly close the doors leading to the loggia in winter.

Here, the type of insulation used and its thickness, as well as compliance with the work technology, play a big role.

As a rule, for internal insulation balconies are used:

• foamed polystyrene with a density of 25-35 kg/m 3, otherwise - polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool based on basalt fiber 80-110 kg/m 3 density;
• extruded polystyrene foam (one of its varieties is penoplex).

Note! For additional thermal insulation, thin foil polyethylene foam insulation - Izolon or Penofol - is often laid on the base layer.

In addition to the listed insulators, there is another insulating material - ecowool, made from cellulose waste. Simply put, waste paper. The rules for handling it and the installation technology used are the same as with basalt wool. Ecowool is not very popular due to its high cost.

Brief characteristics of insulation

Foam plastic is the cheapest material for insulation, produced in the form of slabs of various thicknesses.

Like all foamed polymers, it repels moisture well and has sufficient strength (at the specified density). It is characterized by high resistance to heat transfer and flammability, which is why it requires protection from an accidental spark.

The thickness of the foam for insulating a balcony in the northern regions should be at least 100 mm; in the southern regions, 50 mm may be enough.

Unlike polystyrene foam, mineral wool does not burn at all, but it is capable of absorbing moisture, after which its thermal conductivity increases sharply. The problem is solved with the help of protective layers of special films, which will be discussed below.

The heat transfer resistance of mineral wool is not very high, so it makes no sense to use material less than 80 mm thick. The insulation is offered in rolls and slabs, and is more expensive than polystyrene.

Advice! You should not insulate your balcony with fiberglass wool (glass wool) intended for exterior or roofing purposes. The use of such materials inside residential premises is unacceptable.

The best option for internal insulation of a balcony is extruded polystyrene foam, sold in slabs.

Expanded polystyrene is durable, lightweight and has the best thermal insulation properties.

Where you need to lay mineral wool 100 mm thick, 50 mm of penoplex is enough.

In addition, the polymer does not allow moisture to pass through at all and is so strong that the slab can be screwed on with self-tapping screws if necessary. There is only one drawback - the high price of the material, which is compensated by the long service life of the material - up to 50 years.

Technology for insulating a balcony from the inside

It is necessary to carefully prepare for thermal insulation on the balcony. This includes not only the acquisition of materials and preparation of tools, but also the performance of a number of preliminary works:

1. Construction of a reliable parapet. There are 2 types of structures in practice: a welded metal frame with fastening to the wall or masonry made of foam blocks. How to strengthen the parapet - read here.
2. Installation of metal-plastic or wooden windows. Sometimes the balcony is made panoramic by installing metal-plastic blocks to the full height, without a parapet. Then all that remains is to insulate the floors and ceiling.
3. Elimination of all cracks and leaks leading to the street, removal of excess polyurethane foam.
4. Laying electrical wiring for lighting, as well as drainage and lines with freon to the outdoor unit of the air conditioner (if equipped).

Before insulating the inside of the balcony, you need to level all surfaces, removing obvious sagging or filling in depressions and cracks with mortar.

Interior wall decoration

The technology for insulating balcony walls, done by yourself, depends on the design of the parapet and the heat-insulating material used. Metal carcass, finished on the outside with plastic or corrugated sheeting, it is better to sheathe it with 2 layers of thermal insulation so that the second row of insulation covers everything metal racks, which are cold bridges. Moreover, on the outside, between the cladding and the insulation, a windproof film should be laid.

When insulating a balcony with mineral wool, it is necessary to use not an ordinary film, but a diffusion membrane as a wind barrier. It will let out the moisture that arises in the thickness of the cotton wool, but will not allow it to get wet from precipitation or fog on the street. For polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, the use of a membrane is not necessary; ordinary film will do.

To attach the mineral wool, you will need to assemble with your own hands an additional wooden frame from beams, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the insulation. The pitch between the bars is selected according to the width of the material, the latter is placed between them at random. On last stage the thermal insulation layer is covered with a vapor barrier film, after which the frame is covered with clapboard or plasterboard.

Headlining

A parapet made of foam blocks and a balcony ceiling can be insulated in 3 ways:

1. If you plan to paint or wallpaper it at the end, then the method of gluing the slab insulation with a building mixture is suitable. Insulation, accompanied by “wet” processes, is carried out only in the warm period of the year at above-zero temperatures.
2. For sheathing with plasterboard or similar finishing you will have to attach wooden blocks to the walls and ceiling, and a rolled or slab material lay between them.
3. When insulated with polystyrene foam, the slabs can be directly attached to the walls and ceiling with dowels. After which the surfaces are leveled with putty and painted, or lathing is installed by attaching the bars to foam blocks or concrete through the insulation. Cladding, plastic, plasterboard and other finishes of your choice are easily attached to the sheathing.

Note! To fasten the sheathing to the concrete ceiling through polystyrene foam, you must use special concrete screws - frame dowels.

When insulating a balcony with mineral wool, you cannot do without a wooden frame. You can glue cotton wool, but it is quite difficult to plaster it with your own hands. The best option– insert it between the beams attached to the wall and ceiling, protect it with a vapor barrier and cover it with a suitable material.

The gluing method is convenient when working with polystyrene foam, but after 2 days it must be additionally secured with dowel umbrellas and a layer of plaster applied over the fiberglass mesh.

Video:

Floor insulation

The technology for thermal insulation of balcony floors differs from walls and ceilings, since the insulation “pie” must bear certain dynamic loads and have a flat surface. Leveling is carried out by laying wooden logs, between which insulation is laid, and a finishing coating is laid on top. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Cut the wooden beams into cross members along the width of the balcony and secure them to the floor with anchors or self-tapping screws and dowels using steel corners.
2. Attach 3 longitudinal logs to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. During the process, they must be aligned horizontally, starting from the highest point. Using a building level, the beams at the intersections with the crossbars should be raised and plastic or wooden wedges placed.
3. Place insulation tightly between the crossbars and the joists. In the case of mineral wool, a vapor barrier must be laid on top of it.
4. Lay the flooring with fastening to the joists.

Note! Some craftsmen practice insulating the balcony floor with polystyrene foam without installing logs. This method is unsuccessful, since it will be difficult to bring the floor surface to the same level. For instructions on raising the floor level, see here.

It is typical that the length of the crossbars and joists do not need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the balcony. It would be more correct to make them 10-20 mm shorter so that the ends do not rest against the walls. Wood has the ability to “breathe” and deform slightly; if the fit is tight, the floor surface may later bend in an arc.

Moreover, walking on such floors will be accompanied by an annoying squeak. The resulting gaps near the walls will hide under the floor covering and become invisible.

When using slab insulation, it is worth choosing the correct spacing of the crossbars so that you do not have to cut the slabs again. The standard width is 600 mm, and this is what you need to focus on. After laying polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, all joints and cracks must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Useful training video:

The mineral wool is protected with a vapor barrier as tightly as possible so that moisture from inside the room cannot seep into it. Here you can also use foamed polyethylenes such as Penofol, but pay special attention to gluing the joints.

If you take a serious and scrupulous approach to the procedure for internal insulation of a balcony, then it is not at all necessary to hire craftsmen and pay them money, which is never superfluous. You will spend twice as much time on completing the work, but you will do everything efficiently and in accordance with your personal wishes. In addition, you will save money on your family budget.

Until recently, the balconies of city apartments served as a kind of storage room - people stored preserved food and various things there. Why, they took everyone out onto the balconies unnecessary trash, which it was a shame to throw away. However, today these premises are increasingly used as additional living space. And to implement such an idea, you need to take care of insulating the balcony.

If you insulate your balcony, you will be able to not only expand the living space of your apartment relatively cheaply, but also significantly reduce heat loss from your home. The fact is that it is through the balconies that most of the heat escapes. But in order for everything to be done efficiently, you need to know where to start. With a well-designed scheme, turn cold balcony albeit in a small, but almost complete room, it will be much easier.

So, first sketch out a rough work plan - it will include:

Important information! The balcony can be insulated both from the inside and outside. But since you will be doing the work on your own, that is, without the help of specialists, it is better to resort to internal insulation.

Stage No. 1. Choosing insulation

There are a lot of thermal insulation materials on the modern construction market, but for balconies the following are more suitable:

As for foam plastic and EPS, the laying of these materials is carried out using almost the same technology (the only exception is the form of adhesion - with EPS it is better due to the use of grooves).

It is better not to use mineral wool for a balcony - the installation procedure will be more labor-intensive, and the condensation that inevitably forms on the balcony is undesirable for this material. Expanded clay, for obvious reasons, can only be used for floor insulation (the insulation technology will be described in detail below).

And if we add to all of the above the fact that the balcony should in no case be overloaded, then it becomes obvious: the most suitable option- this is foam plastic 4-5 cm thick, which costs less than polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

Stage No. 2. We carry out glazing

If your balcony is already glazed, you can skip this step. The glazing procedure itself largely depends on the parapet installed on the balcony. If we're talking about about the iron sheathing, then you must build it up using foam blocks or ceramic brick. It is important that the resulting wall thickness exceeds 10 cm. And if you have a reinforced concrete parapet, you can immediately begin installing windows.

Today, many (especially fans of environmentally friendly building materials) prefer double-glazed windows with wooden frames. It is worth remembering that such structures need to be treated with an antiseptic and painted regularly. You can learn about installing double-glazed windows with wooden frames from the video below.

Video - How to install a wooden window with double glazing

However, the majority of consumers still buy PVC windows. When purchasing, choose a special plastic profile that is characterized by increased rigidity and strength characteristics. In addition, the profile must have good thermal insulation properties.

Still have plastic windows it should be:

• 5-chamber profile;
• 2-chamber (if you live in middle lane) or 3-chamber (if in a more severe climate) double-glazed window;
• reinforced reinforcement.

After installing the PVC structure ordered according to the dimensions of the balcony (the work should be carried out by specialists), you can proceed directly to insulation.

Stage No. 3. We insulate the floor

Let's look at how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands using polystyrene foam (although the technology described below is also suitable for polystyrene foam).

Table. Insulating the floor on the balcony

Steps, no.	Short description	Illustration
Step #1	First, prepare the working surfaces - seal with foam all the cracks found in the concrete, as well as at the joints between the slabs and the wall.
Step #2	Mark the floor for the subsequent construction of the sheathing. In this case, it is important that the pitch of the sheathing exceeds the width of the insulation sheets by approximately 10 mm.
Step #3	Lay the slats according to the previously made markings (the approximate size of the bars is 4x4 cm, but their width must correspond to the thickness of the insulating material). The first and last slats should be 50-100 mm away from the walls. Connect the slats using self-tapping screws.
Step #4	Place sheets of foam plastic between the lathing slats, gluing them to the floor liquid nails or special glue. Blow out any resulting voids with polyurethane foam.
Step #5	Lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation. Lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation (necessary to increase thermal insulation and prevent the formation of condensation). If you use regular PET film, then under no circumstances place it on the “cold” side of the insulator. If you are laying foil insulation, then do it with foil to the foam.
Step #6	Fix sheets of plywood or chipboard on top, and the thickness of the floor covering should be at least 20 mm. Attach the sheets to the slats using self-tapping screws.
Step #7	All that remains is to lay the finishing coating, which can be carpet or linoleum.

Important information! There is another way to insulate the floor on a balcony with polystyrene foam: sheets of foam plastic are attached to a leveled and cleaned surface, and a thin screed from a previously prepared dry mixture solution is poured on top. As finishing coating Ceramic tiles can be used here.

Alternative option. We use expanded clay

As noted earlier, the floor on the balcony can also be insulated using expanded clay. This material is also inexpensive, and its installation is not difficult. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions.

Step #1. First, lay a waterproofing film on the floor with an extension of 10 cm to the walls.

Step #2. Place the beacons around the perimeter in increments of approximately 25 cm, being careful not to lean them too far against the walls.

Step #3. Cover the floor with a 15 cm thick layer of expanded clay and distribute the material evenly over the surface.

Step #4. Moisten the expanded clay with cement laitance (this is an aqueous solution of cement).

Step #5. Fill the expanded clay with a layer of concrete or self-leveling mixture. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure of the insulator.

Step #6. Wait for the screed to dry completely. After this, you can begin laying the topcoat.

Stage No. 4. We insulate the walls

The technology here is almost the same as for floor insulation. Follow these steps:

Step #1. Mark the future location of the slats on the walls (as well as for the floor).

Step #2. Attach the slats in accordance with these markings.

Step #3. Apply polyurethane foam to the surface using wave-like movements. At the same stage, you should drill holes for the dowels.

Step #4. Attach the foam sheets using plastic mushroom dowels.

Step #5. Blow out all the resulting cracks with foam, then seal with mounting tape.

Step #6. Lay a waterproofing layer on top - for example, penofol, which will also serve as thermal insulation.

Step #7. Seal the seams at the joints with foil tape.

Step #8. Mount the counter-lattice on top of the foam foam and install the finishing material.

Stage No. 5. We insulate the ceiling

This procedure is also performed using a similar technology, but some differences still occur.

1. First, make a marking along which the hangers for attaching the guides will be installed.
2. Install the hangers themselves necessary to fix the guides (for the latter, use a galvanized profile or timber).

   

   

3. In appropriate places, cut small holes in the insulator (foam or EPS) for hangers.

   

   

4. Next, secure the insulation boards using the same mounting foam.

   

If the insulation weighs too much, you can use dowels for fastening. Blow out the cracks with foam. Otherwise there are no significant differences.

Finishing features

In most cases, balconies are lined from the inside with clapboard or profile, but plasterboard is also used, followed by wallpapering. PVC panels are also used for cladding. Concerning exterior finishing, then it is better to entrust it to professionals, especially if your apartment is located higher than on the ground floor.

Important information! It is prohibited to install central heating there, so if additional heating is required, you can lay a film “warm floor” under the linoleum.

You can also install an outlet on the balcony to which you can connect electric heater. The described room is small, so heating will take a minimum of time. We also note that the double-glazed window weighs quite a lot, so the remaining materials (including the insulator itself) must be of minimal weight. By the way, this is another reason why it is better to give preference to EPS or foam boards.

Video - Instructions for insulating a balcony

Now you know about the strong and weaknesses materials suitable for insulating a balcony, as well as technologies for laying polystyrene foam and expanded clay. Therefore, it's time to get to work! Moreover, there is nothing complicated here if you are armed with step-by-step instructions and all necessary materials. If you do everything correctly, you will turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room with all the ensuing advantages.