How to replant beets after thinning. Growing beets with seedlings, photos, step-by-step instructions
I eat beets with my family members all year round. Therefore, I definitely grow vegetables on summer cottage. I always wanted to get big root vegetables, but instead they grew shaggy, lopsided and small fruits. Even when I found out at what time and how to thin out beets in the garden, I did not follow the recommendations.
I thought that behind this culture special care not needed. As a result, I received a small harvest; in the spring I had to buy more vegetables to prepare my favorite vinaigrette or borscht.
I was proven wrong in subsequent years, when I began to follow the rules of agricultural technology vegetable crop. Mom told me that when planted, 2 and 3 sprouts grow from one seed. In order for all of them to develop fully and produce large beets, you need to plant the extra ones in another bed.
There are varieties on sale, from the seed of which only one sprout grows, but we are adherents of Bordeaux. Even a beginner can learn how to thin out.
Friendly shoots of a plant are a joy for any gardener. The impetus for their development is fully provided by thinning. After the procedure, the root crop develops without feeling the “shoulder” of its neighbor. The plant receives complete nutrition from the soil.
Bordeaux beets and other traditional varieties, as well as cylindrical ones, require agrotechnical techniques. Forage varieties of root crops are also thinned out.
We live in the Moscow region. The first time I thin out beets is in the last ten days of May. I plant the seeds at the beginning of the month directly into moist soil. If there is no precipitation for a long time, I pre-soak the seeds. Usually there are no problems with germination, and by the end of May 3-4 leaves will form on the bed.
I manage without the second thinning, but it happened that I didn’t notice and left little space for the beets - for adult plants you need at least 6-8 centimeters. She also accidentally left triple or double plantings unseparated. Then the operation was carried out as needed during June.
In July and August, when the plants begin to form a root crop, it will begin to increase in size; I do not thin it. The root system becomes large and penetrates deep into the ground. During transplantation, its parts are injured, and there is a high probability of the tail being pinched off.
Adult specimens of the crop take a long time to take root in a new place, get very sick and then form ugly root crops.
In any case, I transplant the beets in the afternoon after 16:00. The goal is to minimize stress in the crop and improve the adaptation of transplanted plants to a new location.
Proper plant thinning
On the eve of the manipulations, I carefully water the bed with seedlings in the open ground. I carry out the procedure itself on cloudy days or midday hours when it’s cool. Please ensure that the soil in the new bed is moist.
I prepare in advance new bed and add azofoska to the soil. I draw furrows in the ground for planting beets. I water the soil and make small holes for the plants. Then I begin to plant the crop correctly.
- At the first stage, I loosen the soil between the rows.
- Special spatula acute form I place it deep enough in the ground next to the seedlings, lifting the ball with the sprouts using the principle of a lever.
- I carefully take out the plants and separate them. Sometimes you manage to pull out two pieces, but one plant remains in its place.
- I plant 2-3 plants at once so that the beets are in the ground almost instantly. If I have to delay replanting, I keep the plants in water. I choose a shadow for this.
- When planting, I leave a distance of 6-7 centimeters between plants.
- I water the new bed with plantings abundantly with warm and settled water.
- I add humus to the old bed, correct the disturbed sprouts and also water with warm and settled water.
Any beet transplant during thinning requires care and no haste.
I advise you to learn about growing and thinning beets in your garden by watching the video:
If there is not enough space in the new bed for all the plants, then I plant the beets with other crops where there is free space. I added it to carrots, potatoes, onions, and herbs. These crops take root well together and even help protect each other from harmful insects. And the root crop grows large in the open air.
Caring for planted beets
It is not enough to plant beets according to the rules; you need to provide care for the vegetable. After transplanting, the next day, in the scorching sun, I shade the plantings. To do this, I cut off lilac branches with leaves and insert them next to the root vegetables. In the evening, if necessary, I water the plants.
- Two weeks after thinning, I sprinkle the beets with wood ash. Natural fertilizer provides plants with potassium and protects them from pests.
- The culture is also responsive to application organic fertilizers. During the summer I feed the plantings with a solution of horse manure or mullein.
- During night frosts, which occur in May and early June, I cover the tender beet sprouts with covering material.
How to plant a vegetable without thinning it
When growing crops using seedlings, thinning is carried out 3-4 weeks earlier. I plant the plants in separate containers so that when planting in open ground do not disturb root system plants.
The following beet varieties do not require thinning:
- Bordeaux single seed,
- Virovskaya single-seeded,
- Russian single-seeded,
- single sprout,
- Belarusian single-seeded,
- Lgovskaya,
- North Caucasian.
The seed contains one embryo and one plant grows. In terms of ripening time and taste, the varieties do not differ from traditional ones that require thinning.
Against the backdrop of a huge number of varieties of garden strawberries, the ampelous variety stands out. This strawberry with pink, very decorative flowers, uncharacteristic for the plant, is easily recognized by the mother plants that simultaneously bear fruit and the rosettes extending from them. After familiarizing yourself with its care, studying the growing rules and looking at the photos, you can safely begin planting this unusual berry crop.
If regular strawberry bears fruit once per season, and the remontant one bears fruit twice, then we can say about the ampelous one that it is capable of bearing fruit throughout the year.
Thanks to the work of breeders, ampelous strawberries grow earlier than peduncles are formed and are laid on them. flower buds and, accordingly, an additional harvest ripens. Then the mustache itself continues to form the next ones. As a result, you can continuously harvest from one bush.
In addition, this variety has excellent decorative qualities and can serve as a wonderful decoration for a balcony, veranda, etc.
Advice. For growing indoors, it is better to select varieties of neutral daylight hours which have a very long fruiting period.
In some sources you can find it under the name “curly”, but this is not entirely correct. Strawberries cannot by their nature wrap around anything. Some gardeners, for decorative purposes, simply tie mustaches with rosettes to a support. At the same time, it seems that the strawberries themselves “climb” up.
Ampelous strawberries continuously produce crops If you plant several bushes in a flowerpot or hanging pot, the rosettes will flow very beautifully from mother plant, creating cascades of leaves, flowers and berries.
When considering fruiting hanging varieties We can definitely say that this is a remontant variety. On the bush you can see buds, flowers and berries at the same time. Thanks to this, in appropriate conditions, you can observe flowering and pick berries almost all year round. Popular varieties:
- Homemade delicacy;
- Temptation;
- Tarpan;
- Elan;
- Novel;
- Balcony stream;
- Balcony charm.
Almost all of them are hybrids that are adapted to growing in any conditions, are resistant to some diseases and produce a decent harvest. I would especially like to mention the Tuscany variety. Despite its recent appearance, it has already conquered global recognition. Richly different pink flowers and quite large aromatic berries.
Growing options
If you show your imagination and put in just a little effort, the bushes of hanging strawberries can become a wonderful decoration for your plot.
Ampelous strawberries can be grown even in an apartment - Growing in pots and flowerpots. In this case, you can use any containers for planting. For normal plant development, their depth must be at least 30 cm. A mandatory requirement is holes for water drainage and a drainage layer. Seedlings intended for planting should be sprinkled with soil and kept in a dark, cool place for two weeks. Plants should not be planted too tightly or too deep in the pot.
Advice. Self-grown in hanging planter A lush strawberry bush can be a wonderful gift for a beginning gardener.
- Growing on a trellis. Can be used as a grid metal mesh, wicker fence, etc. Bushes are planted in the soil 30 cm apart. The growing mustache is tied up along the bars.
Advice. The height of the trellis should be selected no more than 1 m. This way the plants will be able to completely cover it with fruiting and flowering bushes at the same time.
- Planting in the form of a pyramid. For such a planting you will need 3-4 boxes 30 cm high, without a bottom, different sizes. The largest one is placed on the ground in the garden and covered with fertile soil. A second, smaller one is placed on top and also filled with earth. The smallest one is placed at the top. Soil is also poured into it. It turns out to be a cascade of boxes into which seedlings are planted. After growth, this structure looks like a green pyramid covered with flowers and berries.
- Vertical beds. This method is used for growing hanging strawberries in greenhouses. They are made from wide plastic pipes(diameter about 110 cm). Holes are cut into them at a certain interval, into which, after filling the pipe with nutrient soil, seedlings are planted.
How to plant seedlings
Planting hanging varieties is not particularly different from planting other types of strawberries.
- The bottom of the pot or groove in the garden bed is lined with drainage material.
- The top is covered with nutritious soil consisting of turf soil, humus, manure and peat.
- Waters well. After the soil settles, soil is added.
- Planting holes are made.
- One plant is distributed into each hole.
- The roots are pressed with wet soil so that the core remains at the top.
Advice. In order for the seedlings to take root faster, it is advisable to dip each rhizome in a clay mash.
How to care
Planted seedlings need frequent moistening. It should be watered a little at a time 2 times a day. After 2 weeks, watering is reduced - once every 3 days will be enough. The first flower stalks are removed. This way the plant will devote all its strength to the development of the root system, which will make the plant strong.
Strawberries need regular moisture There should be no more than 5 mustaches on each bush. All excess is pinched off. Fertilizing is carried out regularly with mineral fertilizers.
Transplantation of ampelous strawberries must be carried out every 3-4 years. In the spring, the tendrils are plucked off from the strongest bushes and transplanted to a new bed or container. In the case of a flowerbed, you can completely replace the soil and plants.
You cannot leave containers with strawberries outside during the winter. All of them must be entered into warm room. If this is not possible, the container is buried in the ground and covered with covering material.
For beds protruding above ground level, special frames are built, the surface of which is covered with roofing felt, lutrasil, etc., and then sprinkled with something insulating, for example, sawdust, straw or hay.
Ampelous strawberry is an amazing plant that can become a real decoration for a balcony, personal plot or rooms. And all this in combination with a long period of enjoying aromatic and tasty berries.
Features of planting ampelous strawberries: video
Beets are very valuable vegetable plant, rich in vitamins and minerals. Sowing begins in the second half of May or at a later date - warm weather has a positive effect on the harvest. However, to optimize results, it is recommended to use a seedling growing method. In this case, painstaking thinning can be avoided, which will save seeds. At the same time, at the seedling stage, the seedlings are in comfortable conditions and under constant supervision. Besides, similar method is best during a long spring with variable cooling. So, the desired sprouts have been obtained, and the novice gardener faces the question: how to replant beets so that the labor invested is not in vain.
Preparing the soil for seedlings
It should be noted that beets use a lot of nutrients for growth, so special requirements are placed on soil fertility. Since shade harms the vegetable, you should not plant it under trees or on the north side of sunflowers, corn and climbing plants. To avoid rotting of the roots and root collar, soil moisture should be moderate. Instead of manure, it is advisable to use mineral fertilizers, otherwise the root crop may lose its taste and color and develop scab.
It is not recommended to plant the plant in the same place for several years in a row. If before beets other vegetables were grown using manure, then they can be safely planted in this bed. Naturally, planting should be preceded by autumn digging of the soil in the garden plot. If the soil is not rich enough in organic compounds, you can add humus to it at the rate of five kilograms per square meter. It is also undesirable to plant beets after green salad, tomatoes and cabbage.
Selection of mineral fertilizers
Fertilizers containing magnesium and boron are most suitable as soil fertilizers. With a lack of these elements, the heart-shaped leaves die off and the plant stops growing. In addition, beets need a considerable amount of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, which they use when growing tops, as well as during the growing season. The vegetable tolerates chlorine well, and the soil should have a neutral acid-base reaction. When acidity is high, the beds are limed. However, an excessive amount of alkali leads to root disease, especially if the variety is highly sensitive.
Transplanting seedlings
After carrying out the preparatory procedures, you should learn how to replant beet seedlings by familiarizing yourself in detail with the rules and recommendations.
The minimum permissible temperature when planting sprouts is five degrees above zero. Immediately before transplanting, the crop must be watered and the soil in which the plant will develop thoroughly loosened. Optimal time The day for planting is considered to be the second half of the day before dusk. When pulling out a sprout, it is impossible to avoid tearing off part of the root, but this does not affect the quality of the future fruit. To speed up tying, some professionals advise shortening the root by about one-third of its length. However, this only applies round varieties, while deformation of beet seedlings with elongated roots leads to damage to the crop.
Seedlings with a height of eight to ten centimeters tolerate replanting best, while overgrown or too small ones take root with difficulty. If you want to grow not too much large fruits of the same size, it is necessary to plant the sprouts at a short distance from each other, thereby limiting the feeding area. The plant is planted in such a way that the soil covers the stem until lower leaves. Then you can add a little ash or other fertilizers that do not interfere with air penetration. After this, it is recommended to mulch the soil, that is, cover the area around the seedlings with special materials. In the first week after transplantation, the crop should be given special attention: water regularly and protect from gusts of wind and direct sunlight. A photo will help you clearly understand how to transplant beets.
Covering the soil around the seedlings
Mulching the soil after planting beets is possible using the following materials:
- pine needles and fallen cones;
- straw;
- expanded clay;
- grass clippings and weeds without seeds;
- cereal husks;
- sawdust, small shavings and wood chips;
- chopped tree bark;
- roofing felt;
- burlap;
- newsprint;
- polymer film;
- cardboard;
- peat;
- fallen leaves.
Mulch performs protective function, provides the necessary heating and prevents the growth of weeds. Such an agricultural technique is especially effective at the early stage of plant development, when tender beet sprouts begin to actively form a root crop. However, some of the listed types of coating have disadvantages, so you need to carefully monitor the seedlings. The use of film leads to drying out of the soil, which attracts garden pests, such as mole crickets. Grass retains moisture well, but prevents sunlight, which leads to a decrease in soil temperature. One of the best ways Mulching is considered to be covering plants using small wood chips or coarse cloth.
Watering, which varieties are best to buy, how to store? There is probably not a single holiday table where there would not be a beet dish. And on weekdays, beet salad is always on the table.
In schools, kindergartens, and hospitals, beets are necessarily included in the diet. After all, during cooking and long-term storage, it retains its healing properties. The entire technology of how to grow beets is described in this article.
Beet cylinder
Beet Bordeaux 237 
Beet red ball Those varieties of table beets that have red-violet pulp and leaves are valuable.
Such beets contain the coloring substance anthocyanin, which reduces cholesterol levels in the blood, which is the prevention of atherosclerosis and is important in its treatment.
Everyone's favorite comes in different shapes: round, flat, oblong.
Table beet varieties: “Bordeaux 237”, “Red Ball”, “Gribovskaya”, “Bravo”, “Pablo”, “Flat A-473”, “Podzimnyaya”, “Incomparable”, “Egyptian flat”, “Cylinder”.
Requirements for the planting site and soil for growing beets
Beets are afraid of shade.
It cannot be planted under apple trees, climbing trees on the north side, corn, or sunflowers.
Beets are demanding on soil nutrition.
Table beets are demanding on soil fertility and use many nutrients for growth.
Do not put fresh manure under the beets.
It is better to plant without manure at all, using. On fresh manure beets will have many roots, not intensely colored, tasteless, and are more often affected by scab.
Avoid planting beets in low areas.
She doesn't like being overwatered. If such a need arises, then make the bed high with deep furrows. On acidic, floating soils, beets may rot. root collar and roots.
Don't forget, beets love fertilized soil.
When choosing mineral fertilizers, it is better to use those that contain magnesium. A particularly important trace element is boron. In the absence of this element, beets stop growing as the core leaves die. Both boron and magnesium are found in ash.
Beetroot needs large quantities nitrogen and . While the leaves are growing, it uses more nitrogen, and at the end of the growing season - potassium. Phosphorus is absorbed evenly throughout the growing season.
Beets tolerate chlorine. The soil for table beets should be neutral. If the pH is below 6.5, then the bed should be limed in the fall. You need to add 200 - 400 g of lime per 1 m2. The amount depends on the acidity of the soil at the time of its deoxidation.
It is worth recalling here that excessive liming (alkaline soil) leads to a disease - scab. “Bordeaux” and “Incomparable” are resistant to scab, and “Cylinder” has delicate skin, so it gets sick more often.
A good beet harvest depends on its predecessors.
If the predecessors were grown on manure, then the beets can be sown immediately in this bed, of course, after digging it up in the fall. If we know that the soil is poor in organic matter, then in the fall, when digging, you can add 5 - 6 kg of humus or mature compost per 1 m2.
Beets should not be grown after spinach and chard. If possible, try not to plant it after root crops.
Good predecessors for beets are all types of salads, kohlrabi, onions, cauliflower, etc.
Do not plant it in the same place for several years.
Planting beets
It is impossible to solve the question of how to grow beets without knowing the planting rules. The timing of sowing beets is determined by local climatic conditions.
A good gardener should always have an insurance fund of seeds (not only beets, but also other crops). Having seeds, you can take a chance and sow some crops earlier optimal timing. Several rows of beets can be sown in April. The shelter will help protect it from frost, and there will be beets for the table in mid-summer.
You should not sow a large bed of red beets in April. The fact is that frozen beets will “shoot”, and at a temperature of -3 - 4°C they may even die.
And for winter storage It is best to sow it in late May - early June. On this ridge, before the beets, you can grow some kind of salad, kohlrabi.
Beets should be sown in rows (under a string). The row spacing should be 30 cm. Place the seeds 3 per nest every 10 - 15 cm. Plant the beet seeds to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. After germination, thin out, leaving one plant in the nest. Don't delay thinning. Do it when the plants are about 5 cm high.
It’s even better to make a groove under the rope and place one grain at a time every 3 - 4 cm, and thin out after germination. If you carefully remove the plants using a knife, then such beets can be planted in another bed.
Watering beets
Gardeners often make the following mistake: after sowing and at the beginning of the growing season in dry weather, they do not water the beet bed. Although beets can tolerate short-term droughts, they need watering:
1. At the stage of seed germination.
2. During the period when the root system is formed.
3. During the formation of root crops.
Without moisture, root vegetables lose their value and become woody.
Stagnation of water is also harmful. You can use a pitchfork or shovel to make many holes deep into the bed. The water will go away faster.
Transplanting beet seedlings
Beets tolerate transplantation well. Be careful not to make mistakes when replanting.
1. Lightly cut off the root of the plant being replanted.
2. Remember that beetroots with a height of 7 - 10 cm are best suited for replanting. Very small and overgrown plants do not take root well.
3. Loosen the place where you will transplant the beets well with a pitchfork.
4. Don’t forget to loosen and weed the bed in time.
In the first month, beets grow slowly. Roots can only take moisture and nutrition from upper layers soil. That’s why it doesn’t hurt to fertilize with mullein infusion, ash, or a ready-made set of mineral fertilizers for beets. For fertilizing, you can use mineral fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen and potassium.
Infusions can be used against aphids on beets onion peel, potato tops, dandelion leaves.
Sow dill in several places between the rows of beets (and also carrots). They will live on dill beneficial insects, which will destroy aphids.
Ash and tobacco dust will repel flea beets from beets.
Some gardeners sow vegetables for the winter: carrots, parsley, radishes, parsnips, beets, lettuce, dill, onions (nigella). The beds are prepared in advance, and sowing is carried out when stable cold sets in.
You can also sow table beets for the winter. Only not all varieties are suitable for this, but special ones intended for this purpose: “Podzimnyaya A - 474”, “Polar flat K-240”.
Beet storage
It is necessary not only to grow good beets, but also be able to preserve it. When harvesting, you need to trim the leaves and do it carefully without damaging the skin.
Vegetables such as beets, radishes, daikon, black radish, parsnips, turnips, and carrots must be dug up with a shovel when harvesting so as not to tear off the root or damage the skin, otherwise such a vegetable will not be stored well.
You can store beets in pits along with potatoes, or you can store them in the cellar in small boxes of 10 - 20 kg, sprinkled with sand. Optimal temperature storage around 0 - 2 °C, humidity 90 - 95%.
Table beets “Bordo 237”, “Podzimnyaya A - 474”, and “Odnorostkovaya” have good keeping quality. If you store beets correctly, they will retain their juiciness and usefulness until the next harvest.
Growing beet seeds
Beet seeds How to grow beets without seeds is unrealistic. It all starts with planting material. It happens that beets degenerate, turn white, and lose their taste.
Do not leave such beets to obtain seeds. For seeds, select specimens that have clearly defined varietal properties.
When cut, the color should be deep burgundy, and the shape should be appropriate for the variety. “Cylinder” - looks like a carrot, “Red Ball” - round like a ball, “Egyptian Flat” - flattened at the poles.
Select the seed plants in the fall. The vegetable should be 10 cm in diameter and weigh 200 - 400 g.
Do not plant two seeds next to each other different varieties. You can plant one variety, for example, “Bordeaux 237,” in one year, and “Red Ball” in another. Germination of table beets lasts up to 4 years.
The timing of planting seeds in different regions does not coincide: from mid-March to the end of April.
If the top of the beets is deeply buried during planting, the seedlings may die. It should be at ground level.
Loosen the soil around the seeds, water them, and feed them before flowering. When flower stalks appear, tie them to a support.
Often, a gardener makes the following mistake when collecting seeds: he waits for all the seeds to ripen, and as a result, some of the seeds fall off. To prevent the seeds from falling off, the branch must be cut off when most of the seeds turn brown.
If you have your own secrets and advice, how to grow beets, then share them in the comments. Experience is a gain, let's share it with each other!
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