Planting veska onions - how to grow a rich “green” harvest? Vitamins with tears: how to plant onions correctly How to prepare a bed for onions.

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There is probably no garden where at least a small bed is not planted with onions. This vitamin plant does not require extremely high labor to grow, but onions have their own secrets. IN southern regions Onions can be obtained from seeds in one season, but in most areas they try not to tempt fate: first they grow onion sets, and plant them the next year to get a harvest of large marketable onions. Planting onion sets in the spring has a number of nuances.

Dates for spring planting of onion sets

Real summer heat is not necessary for growing onions: adult onions can easily tolerate even severe frosts. Therefore, it is planted very early, so that by the onset of a long daylight hours it has already taken root and is growing. Exactly a large number of sunlight it is required for the bulbs to ripen well, and then go into a dormant state in time and be stored for a long time.

At the same time, planting seedlings as soon as the snow melts is also risky. Bulbs planted in cold soil go into arrows en masse, and it is not possible to obtain a high-quality harvest of onions. The best thing is to choose the moment when the soil warms up to about 10 o C, but do not delay it any longer. Since there is no need to worry about the possibility of frost in the case of onions, it is at this moment that it is worth finding the time to plant onions on turnips. As a rule, in most climatic regions, the timing of planting seedlings falls on certain days of April or the first half of May.

Those gardeners who check their plans with the Lunar calendar can rest assured: there are not so many prohibited days for planting onions (these are only new moon and full moon days). And if you choose the best days, you should know the following. If onions are grown to produce feathers, then the optimal dates are those on which the night luminary is under the signs of Water. If you plan to obtain high-quality onions, you should plant the sets when the Moon is under the signs of the Earth.

For example, in 2020 better days The following are considered for planting onion sets:

April 9, 15 and 28;
May 13, 14 and 20.

Dependence of planting time on region

In general, if we consider the entire territory of our country, optimal timing Planting sets for onion production takes about a month and a half. So, in the very south, this work begins in the last days of March and ends in the first ten days of April. In the middle zone, in particular in the Moscow region, such work can begin at the end of April and end by mid-May.

Northwestern regions (for example, Leningrad region), as well as the Urals and Siberia, are very heterogeneous in weather: in some areas, even by the end of May, the soil may not yet completely thaw. It happens that planting onions is postponed until the beginning of summer, but generally they try to complete this work by the beginning of the last ten days of May.

Soil selection and preparation

Onions grow well only on light soils, but not entirely on sand: light loams or sandy loams are optimal. He also has an excellent attitude towards planting on black soil. Even close proximity groundwater is not a hindrance, as long as these are not wetlands. The soil for onions should be moderately moist and in no case acidic. In case of high acidity, preliminary liming with chalk, slaked lime, dolomite flour, etc. is necessary.

For onions, areas that are well illuminated by the sun should be allocated: even the shadow of fruit trees or a fence will negatively affect the harvest. Onions respond very well to increased doses of fertilizers, but it should not be fresh manure: in this case, a beautiful feather will grow, but the bulb, although large, will not be able to be stored for a long time. But over the course of a year, for previous crops, the application of manure is justified.

The beds for planting onions are prepared in the fall, while there is time. For digging and removing weeds, add at least one and a half buckets of humus or good compost, a half-liter jar of wood ash and up to 80 g of azofoska per 1 m2. In the case of clay soils, add up to a bucket at a time river sand. In the spring, before superficial loosening of the soil, it is advisable to add another handful of square meter. After this, the bed is leveled and compacted a little.

Preparing the sets

Where do onion sets even come from? It is grown from seeds, the so-called nigella, but most summer residents just don’t think about it. This is not a very simple matter, so most often the sets are bought at the market or in a store. The easiest way, of course, is to buy seedlings in the spring, since winter storage it should be carried out in certain conditions: a small layer at a temperature of about -2 o C or, conversely, in a room, but not hot. But storage at 0...14 o C is fraught with the fact that the seedlings planted in the garden begin to bolt en masse.

The sets purchased in the spring are sorted out in advance, discarding all dried, bare, damaged bulbs. It is better not to plant those that managed to germinate during storage. The 1st class sets are considered the most valuable: these are bulbs with a diameter of 15–22 mm and a weight of about 2–3 g. Larger sets are used for feathering: they often bolt and do not form a marketable bulb. Small sets, with bulbs about 1 cm in diameter, are best planted before winter, around the end of September.

Before planting, it is better to select the largest set and plant it separately, on a feather: best bulbs will grow from a medium sized set

Soaking the sets before planting

Selected after sorting good set freed from unnecessary clothes. At this time, it makes sense to remove those husks that do not adhere well to the bulbs. Soaking onions before planting is highly desirable, especially if the soil in the garden has already begun to dry out quickly and rains are rare. The sets are kept for 1–2 hours in water at a temperature of 35–38 o C. Soaking is often accompanied by pre-fertilization, adding trace elements or simply potassium permanganate to the water in a concentration of about 1 g/l. Some fans do not remove the onion after the water has cooled; they keep it in it for up to two days.

You can soak the sets in any convenient bucket.

Experts advise doing soaking differently, but in this case, caution and attentiveness are needed. Immediately before planting the onions in a bucket, fill them with water at a temperature of 65–70 °C. Keep it at this temperature for only two minutes, after which it is quickly cooled with cold water. They say that after such treatment the onion will definitely not shoot, but you cannot go overboard with the water temperature and soaking time, otherwise the set can be destroyed.

Preventive treatment against diseases and pests

Even if you do not add microelements to the water during soaking, it is still better to use the simplest chemicals before planting onions in the garden. At least, gardeners often soak seedlings in a solution of complex mineral fertilizer. To do this, for example, dissolve a spoonful of azofoska in 10 liters of water and bathe the seedlings in this solution for 8–10 hours. Even this elementary procedure increases the resistance of the seeds to diseases.

A slightly more serious chemical used to prevent fungal diseases is copper sulfate. A teaspoon of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water and the seedlings are kept in it for 5–10 minutes. It is more effective, but less safe, to use chlorophos (2 g/l): after such a bath, lasting up to 30 minutes, the bulbs should be rinsed in water and dried a little.

Chlorophos is effective against many diseases and insects, but it must be handled with care

The best means of preventing pest attacks, especially onion fly, is a solution of birch tar (the concentration of the solution is a tablespoon per liter of warm water). The seedlings are kept in this solution for 20–30 minutes. It is undesirable to use more serious chemicals in personal households.

Trimming onions before planting

Regarding pruning onions, it is worth saying that, firstly, no pruning of the set before planting it in the garden is necessary. If the onion was soaked according to the rules, then in the garden it will have enough strength to break through the husk, and the feather will sprout perfectly. Secondly, pruning itself, which is sometimes used, only pushes the bulb to begin growing, but does not affect the subsequent life of the onion at all. Well, thirdly, if you want to help the onion, then you can only cut off the dry tip at the very top and, in addition, the dried part of the bottom.

Touch the living wet tissues When pruning bulbs, it is categorically not recommended: these inexperienced gardeners only weaken the set. After removing the entire top of the onion, cut off “while alive,” leaves, of course, will appear, but the onion will hurt for a long time and is unlikely to produce good harvest.

Video: preparing seedlings and planting them

How to properly plant onion sets in spring: step-by-step process and diagram

The gardener can choose the onion planting scheme himself, based on the geometric dimensions of the bed, but, in principle, everything is very simple here. Most often used strip diagram. A distance of about 20 cm is maintained between the rows, and between the bulbs in the rows - depending on their size. It is customary to plant the smallest onion (about a centimeter in size) every 5–6 cm, the largest one - up to 10 cm.

There are many schemes for planting onions, but in any case they are placed quite tightly

The sets are planted at a depth of 3–4 cm. Tentatively, it looks like the very tip of the bulb neck is barely visible above the soil surface. If some of them are not visible at all, it’s not a big deal, but the bulbs shouldn’t stick out too much from the ground. If planted too shallowly, the growing bulbs will be almost completely out of the ground, which will stunt their growth when the weather becomes too dry and very hot. If the seeding is too deep, growth will also slow down, and at the end of the gardening season the bulbs may not have time to ripen properly, which will lead to poor preservation of the crop.

The technology for planting seedlings in a pre-prepared bed is as follows.

There is no need to do anything with the plantings until the greenery grows, unless the weeds start to run rampant. They must be carefully pulled out by hand; The hoe starts working after the rows are marked.

Predecessors and compatibility

The onion almost doesn’t care what grew in the garden before it, as long as the soil remains fertile. The best precursor vegetables for onions are cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes: these are the crops for which fairly large amounts of fertilizer are used. By various reasons It is not advisable to plant onions after carrots, radishes and sunflowers. Well, following the rule of alternating crops, after any types of onions, as well as garlic.

Onions also have almost no unwanted neighbors. Only legumes (peas and beans) are considered such, and the onion itself is not the most best neighbor for any types of cabbage. But not only the best, but also an obligatory neighbor for onions is carrots. They mutually protect each other from pests: primarily from onion and carrot flies. Potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, and beets are also excellent neighbors for all types of onions.

Onions and carrots - classic neighbors in the garden

Summer residents who do not keep a plot to provide themselves with vegetables plant a small amount of onions: they make supplies for the winter at the market in the fall. But even a small bed, which is a must for any garden, must be planted on time and correctly. This is not at all difficult to do, but in the summer you will have greens and several bulbs on hand at any time.

How to prepare a bed for onions?

A bed of onion sets is prepared in the fall. All plant residues are removed, sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon of honey oxychloride (4 0 g of “Hom” per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1–1.5 liters per 1 m 2. Before frost, the bed is additionally watered, and in winter It’s a good idea to remove the snow from it. All this is done to ensure good freezing of the soil. As a rule, in such a bed next year the onions are less damaged by diseases and pests.

In spring, organic and mineral fertilizers, depending on the composition of the soil.

The soil is loamy – per 1 m2 add 3–4 kg of humus, 4–5 kg of peat, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea.

The soil is clayey – per 1 m2 add 6 kg of humus and peat, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and granulated “Agricola for onions and garlic”, 1 teaspoon of urea.

Peat soil – per 1 m2 add 5 kg of humus or compost, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and nitrophoska, 1 teaspoon of urea.

The soil is sandy – per 1 m2 add a bucket of humus or compost, peat, 2 buckets of loamy or clay soil, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated Agricola for onions and garlic.

The bed is dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel, leveled with a rake, lightly compacted and spilled with Energen growth stimulator: 2 capsules per 10 liters of water, spilling 3 liters per 1 m2.

The prepared bed is covered with clean film for 5–6 days and left until the onion sets are planted.

When to plant sets and other onions?

In the southern climatic zones onion sets are planted in the third ten days of April, in other areas - in the first ten days of May.

We must remember that onion sets cannot be planted in unheated soil (below 12 °C): they may go to pieces. And you can’t be late with planting either, otherwise the onion will develop slowly due to lack of moisture and high temperature.

Before planting the bulbs, mark the bed: make grooves 4 cm deep at a distance of 20–25 cm from each other. Water with water at room temperature (20 °C) at the rate of 2–3 liters per 1 m2 from a watering can with a fine strainer.

The bulbs are planted in grooves at a distance of 8–10 cm from each other and covered so that the layer of soil above the shoulders of the bulbs is no more than 2–2.5 cm, since deeper planting will delay ripening and the bulb itself will change shape. When planted shallowly, the bulbs are exposed and their growth is stunted, especially in hot, dry weather.

Shoots appear 5–6 days after planting. Caring for onions involves watering, weeding, loosening, fertilizing and processing.

How to water onions correctly and how often should you do it?

Onions require watering, especially in the first 2.5 months (May, June and half of July).

In May, in dry, hot weather, it is watered every week, spending 6–10 liters of water per 1 m2. In June - every 8-10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 m2, in the first half of July - every 8-10 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 m2. If the second half of July is hot, then you can water 1-2 times in 8-10 days at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m2. Water carefully from a watering can so as not to break the leaves. 15–18 days before harvesting the onions, watering is completely stopped. You can add the Energen growth stimulator to each watering: dilute 1 capsule per 10 liters of water.

Do onions need weeding?

Prevent weeds from appearing, they create high humidity And favorable conditions for fungal diseases.

Onions grown on overgrown weed grass areas, has a thick, juicy neck, which makes it difficult to store.

Weeds are easier to remove from wet soil when they reach a height of 3–5 cm.

Why do onion leaves dry out?

When the onion leaves (feather) reach a length of 12–15 cm, you need to make preventive treatment for protection against fungal diseases (downy mildew). 20 g of copper oxychloride ("Hom") are diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed on the leaves at the rate of 0.5 liters per 1 m2.

What's missing from bows?

Onions are responsive to the application of mineral fertilizers. IN initial period growth, it especially needs nitrogen and potassium, therefore, when the feather reaches a height of 5–6 cm, fertilizing is carried out: 2 capsules of the Energen growth stimulator and 1 teaspoon of urea and potassium sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water, pouring 3 liters of solution each per 1 m2 by sprinkling method. This feeding is repeated after 10 days.

Later, when the bulb is formed, a second root feeding, repeating after 12 days: dilute 50 g (1 sachet) of granulated “Agricola for onions and garlic” and 2 tbsp into 10 liters of water. spoons of organic liquid fertilizer “Effecton-O”, using 3 liters of solution per 1 m2, are spilled using the sprinkling method, and immediately after fertilizing they are watered with water at the rate of 2–3 l/m2.

How to plant onions before winter?

Set bulbs up to 1 cm in size are not stored at home until spring and dry out almost completely. Therefore, it is better to plant them in the ground before winter, where they will overwinter and at the end of July, without bolting, they will produce a good harvest of onions.

How to prepare a winter bed?

The bed is made in a well-lit place. The width of the bed is 90–100 cm, the height is 18–20 cm. The soil is cleaned of plant residues, disinfected with a solution of copper oxychloride (“Hom”) (4 0 g per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter per 1 m 2, add 3 –4 kg of humus, 5 kg of peat, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate and 100 g of wood ash, dig everything up.

After leveling and compacting the beds, make grooves 5 cm deep at a distance of 15 cm. Then the dried small seedlings are laid out in the groove 3–4 cm apart and covered with peat-humus mixture.

How much attention should I pay to the onion?

The timing of planting onion sets is from the second half of October. All varieties recommended above are suitable for planting before winter.

Before frosts, the bed with planted onion sets is mulched with peat or sawdust in a layer of up to 2–3 cm to protect the onions from freezing. In the spring, this bedding is raked so that it does not interfere with the warming of the soil and the emergence of seedlings. In winter, when the air temperature is below –10–12 °C, additional snow must be added to the bed. In spring, do not allow water to stagnate in the garden bed, otherwise it will cause the bulbs to become wet.

Well-wintered onions produce vigorous shoots. If the plantings turn out to be thickened, they are thinned out, leaving a distance of 5–6 cm between them. The pulled out plants are used as green onions.

Onion care in spring, watering and fertilizing are described in the section.

Planting small sets before winter makes it possible to obtain well-ripened bulbs in late July - early August. This onion is better preserved in winter at home.

How to grow onions from seeds in one season?

Nowadays, gardeners have learned to grow onions from seeds in one year. The secret to getting a good bulb is early, thickened sowing from seeds.

Preparing the beds. The bed for sowing seeds begins to be prepared in the fall. Per 1 m2 add 3–5 kg of humus, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. spoons of dolomite flour or chalk.

Preparing seeds for sowing. In order for shoots to appear faster, the seeds are soaked for 2–3 days in a solution with a temperature of 23–25 °C of the root stimulator “Kornerost”: 1 tablet (capsule) is diluted for 2–3 liters. Then the seeds are slightly dried until they flow and sown.

Sowing seeds. Seeds are sown evenly in prepared furrows to a depth of 1.5–2 cm, covered with soil and compacted. After sowing, the bed is watered with warm (25–30 °C) water from a watering can with a fine strainer at the rate of 3–4 liters per 1 m2. To obtain early shoots, the bed is covered with covering material, which is removed as soon as single onion shoots appear. Onion seeds are sown from April 20 to April 25.

Onion care. When the seedlings appear, they begin to thin them out, leaving 3–4 cm between the plants in the row. There is no need to rush with thinning, because you can also harvest an additional harvest of green onions from the garden bed.

Watering, fertilizing, loosening are described in the subsection Growing onion sets from seeds.

From mid-July, stop watering onions. After lodging the leaves, the bulbs are pulled out and dried under a canopy until the leaves and roots become dry. A sign of well-dried bulbs are easily separated leaves and roots.

If some bulbs are not ripe and have a thick, juicy neck, they are not left for storage, but eaten.

Not only turnip onions can grow from seeds, but also selected onions and onion sets, that is, large, medium and small onions, so it is necessary to sort them.

Large bulbs (more than 4 cm) are left for winter storage for food purposes. Medium bulbs (selections, 3–4 cm) can be planted in boxes for forcing green onions, and small bulbs (sets, up to 3 cm) can be stored until spring planting on turnips.

The most suitable varieties for this are Strigunovsky, Odintsovsky, Myachkovsky, Carmen, Kasatik .

When to harvest and how to store onions?

The onion is ready for harvesting when the formation of young leaves has stopped, lodging has begun, the bulbs have fully formed and acquired the color characteristic of this variety. Onions are harvested from mid-August to the first ten days of September.

If you are late with harvesting, then after 8–10 days the onion growth resumes and such bulbs are not suitable for storage.

Cleaning should be done in dry weather. The onion is dug up with a pitchfork and carefully pulled out of the soil by the leaves. The soil remaining on the bulbs is removed by hand and not shaken off, since mechanical damage causes the bulbs to rot. Then the onions are laid out in the open sunny place to dry for 12–15 days.

After this, the leaves are cut off, leaving a neck 3–4 cm long. The cut onions are dried again at a higher temperature. high temperature(30–35 °C) for 5–6 days. This drying will reduce the number of bulbs affected by neck rot. It is advisable to dust the onions with chalk.

Onions can be braided, and also placed in baskets or boxes of 10–12 kg and stored at room temperature in a dry room.

Sevok, planted before winter, is also grown on ridges so that in the spring it is not flooded by melt water. The beds are filled with humus 3–5 kg/m2, mineral fertilizers and ash from mineral fertilizers, add 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated “Agricola for onions and garlic” and 1 cup of wood ash.

Onion sets are planted in the first half of October. Planting depth - 3-4 cm, distance between rows - 18 cm, between bulbs in a row - 4-5 cm. The ridges are mulched with humus or peat compost with a layer of 2-2.5 cm. It is good to cover them on top with dry sawdust or cover them with old, but clean covering material in several layers.

What varieties of onion sets are the most productive?

IN Middle lane In Russia, the most common are acute and semi-acute varieties, which are grown from sets, while it takes 2 years to obtain onions.

Stuttgarter Riesen – productive, mid-season variety, from germination to technical ripeness – 90–110 days. The bulbs are flat-round, have an excellent pungent taste, weighing 80–100 g. The variety is small-nesting. Has increased resistance to downy mildew. Well kept.

Danilovsky 301 – mid-season (100–110 days) variety. Small-nesting, forms one, less often two, bulbs of semi-sharp taste in a nest. The bulbs are flat and rounded-flat, weight up to 150 g, medium density. Dry scales are dark red with a purple tint, juicy scales are light purple. Keeping quality is good. Salad variety.

Odintsovets – grows in an annual culture. Mid-season variety. Small-nest (1–2 bulbs per nest). The bulbs are round-flat, dense, weighing 60–80 g. The color of the outer scales is golden yellow, the inner scales are white. The taste is semi-sharp. Productivity – 1.2–1.6 kg/m2. Shelf life is good.

Silver Prince – medium late, very productive variety. The bulb is round, with dry scales of beautiful silver color, average weight 50 g. The variety is convenient for harvesting with greens and for “turnips”. Used fresh, for drying and storage for 3–4 months.

Exhibition (Holland seeds) – very large bulbs sweet taste. A mid-late variety for producing onions in an annual crop (it is better to grow through seedlings). The period from germination to harvest is 130 days. The bulb is oval, weighing 170–550 g (up to 800 g). Dry scales are straw-yellow, juicy scales are white. Two-germ. The taste is sweet. Salad purpose. The seeds are treated with thiram and do not require soaking.

Arzamas – old Russian variety, mid-season; medium-sized (2–3 medium-sized bulbs weighing 60–90 g; round-cuboid or rounded in shape with yellow coloring of dry outer scales).

Bessonovsky – early ripening, medium-sized (3–5 small bulbs weighing 35–65 g). The bulbs are round-flat, the outer dry scales are yellow, the inner ones are white.

Annual chavsky – early ripening, small-sized, semi-sharp taste. The bulbs are round or flat-round, yellow or yellow-brown in color.

Rostov onion – early ripening, multi-lobed (3–6 bulbs). The bulbs are flat, yellow with a pink tint, weighing 40–80 g. The taste is pungent.

Strigunovsky local - one of the most common onion varieties. Early ripening, small-growing, pungent taste. The bulbs are round, light yellow, weighing 100–120 g.

The most famous southern varieties (all late-ripening and small-growing).

Spanish-313 (for salad purposes); Lugansk (medium severity); Kaba (taste is closer to sweet); Karatalsky (semi-sharp taste).

Onion

Onion is a perennial, highly branching plant. Onions are grown everywhere, but in small quantities. Externally, the spring onion differs little from the onion, but has more powerful tubular leaves, its bulb is small, cylindrical, turning into a false stem. It grows well in one place for up to 5 years. Place it after cucumber, tomato, potato, and green crops. For annual use, the batun is sown in the summer, in June, and harvested in the spring of next year. Batun greens contain a lot of vitamin C. Greens are added as a seasoning to various dishes, and they are also prepared fresh vegetable salads With vegetable oil, sour cream, mayonnaise and other spices. Onion is used in folk medicine to reduce blood pressure, improve the elasticity of capillary vessels.

Under what weather conditions can onions be sown?

Batun is a frost-resistant plant that is grown in open ground even beyond the Arctic Circle. It requires a lot of moisture to grow. Onion is a long-day plant. A short day promotes increased leaf regrowth, but inhibits bolting. Grows best in light soils rich in humus. Before sowing, the soil is dug up using a full spade, humus or compost is added at the rate of 5-6 kg/m2, as well as mineral fertilizers - 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate and urea, the bed before sowing is spilled with a warm (30–40 ° C) solution of the growth stimulator “Agricola Aqua”: 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water, spending 3 liters per 1 m 2.

What are the onion requirements for the site?

The seeds are pre-soaked in a warm solution of the growth stimulator "Energen": 1 capsule per 3 liters of water for 24 hours. Then the seeds, without washing, are slightly dried until they flow and the remaining solution is poured into the furrows for sowing the seeds. Then they are sown on a bed with row spacing of 18–20 cm. Sowing depth is 1–2 cm, seeding rate is 1.5 g/m2. The crops are mulched with humus in a layer of 1–1.5 cm, covered with non-woven material on top, and then compacted a little. Shoots appear in 11–14 days.

The seedlings are watered, weeded, fed with ash and a solution of complete mineral fertilizer, and the rows are loosened. During thinning, a distance of 2–3 cm is left between plants. Onions can accumulate nitrates, so you should avoid fertilizing them with nitrogen fertilizers.

During the summer, onions are fed at an early stage of plant development (see section Multi-tiered bow). Water 3–4 times at 10–18 l/m2. After watering and heavy rains, loosening is necessary.

With early sowing and good development Already in the first summer you can make 1-2 collections, in the second summer - 3-4. After each cutting, the plants are watered and fed with liquid organic fertilizers.

What varieties of onion are the most productive?

Onion has three subspecies - Chinese, Japanese And Russian. The latter is characterized by high winter hardiness and a high content of ascorbic acid.

Varieties of the Russian subspecies are widespread in Russia - early ripening semi-sharp Saladny 35 And April (does not freeze even in snowless winters). The bulb is elongated, reduced, massive. The outer scales are dark yellow, the leaves, which grow in late April - early May, are large, tender, juicy, up to 50 cm high, bright green, do not become coarse for a long time, the weight of one plant is 200–300 g, as well as late-ripening pungent May (for open ground), does not freeze even in snowless winters at –45 °C. The bulb is elongated, non-massive, little pronounced, the outer dry scales are dark brown. The branching is strong, the plant weight is 200–340 g. Readiness for harvesting occurs on May 10–15 and continues until June 5–10.

Slime Bow

Perennial plant, excellent honey plant. Forms flat juicy linear light and dark green leaves up to 40 cm long and up to 4 cm wide with a mildly pungent taste and garlicky smell. Its bulb is false, 1.5–2.5 cm thick. The plant blooms from the second year of life, forming light lilac inflorescences with a pink tint. Slime onion is found almost throughout Russia. Cold-resistant plant, tolerates frosts down to –40 °C. It also winters in the Arctic Circle. Plants are resistant to diseases and downy mildew.

Slime grows in one place for up to 6 years. Good predecessors for it are cucumber, tomato, cabbage, early potatoes and annual herbs, except onions.

How is slime onion useful?

Slime onions are grown for their tender, almost non-coarsening tasty leaves, which can be eaten throughout the growing season - from early spring to late autumn.

Plants are widely used as a seasoning for various dishes and for making salads. Particularly useful for anemia. Has anti-inflammatory and vasodilating effects.

What are the requirements of the slime onion for the planting site?

Slime is demanding of moisture; it is grown in open ground and in a greenhouse, watered every week with 10–12 liters per 1 m2. A good harvest is possible on fertile loamy and peaty soils; well-rotted manure, humus or compost up to 6 kg/m2 is added to the soil; in the spring, when digging, mineral fertilizers are added, 1 tbsp. spoon of “Agricola for onions and garlic” and urea per 1 m 2. All fertilizers are embedded to a depth of 12–15 cm. Slime onions can be juicier and more tender if you water them 3–4 times at 15-day intervals from the beginning of summer with a solution of the growth stimulator “Energen”: dilute 2 capsules per 10 liters of water, water 3 at a time l per 1 m 2.

How does the slime onion reproduce?

Slime onions are propagated by dividing the bush and seeds. The latter can be obtained in the second year and especially in the third year.

Slime is sown from the first days of April to mid-May in a bed at a depth of 0.5–1 cm with a row spacing of 30 cm, between plants in a row - 15 cm. When propagated by dividing the bush, it is planted in May or August.

How to improve the germination of slime onions?

Behind summer period carry out 3-4 loosening to a depth of 4-5 cm and mandatory watering in dry weather, twice feeding in the 1st decade of June: dilute 2 tbsp per 10 liters of water. spoons of universal liquid organic fertilizer “Rossa” and 1 teaspoon of urea, nitrophoska, solution consumption of 3 liters per 1 m 2.

The second feeding is repeated after the first cutting of the leaves: dilute 2 tbsp per 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta", consumption - up to 4 liters of solution per 1 m 2.

To speed up regrowth in early spring, film covers are used, which allows the first cutting of leaves 10–15 days earlier.

Cutting begins in early May, when the leaves reach a length of 20–30 cm. Harvesting is repeated 5–7 times during the summer. And at the end of October they are completed.

Chives

Chives, or chives, - perennial. Chives form a highly branched bush more than 35 cm high. Its leaves are tubular, narrow, and bright green. The bulbs are small, 0.5–0.8 cm in diameter, tightly adjacent to each other and form a continuous turf. The seeds are black and remain viable 2-3 times a year. Chives are a moisture-loving, long-day plant. It is characterized by high frost resistance.

Usually, onion sets are planted in the spring, when they have already established warm weather and the soil has warmed up sufficiently - approximately the beginning - mid-May (depending on the weather and region). In the meantime, you have time to prepare the bed.

In the second half of April, it is worth going out into the garden and, after looking around, determine the most illuminated area, which will be sunny for most of the day without shade from neighboring trees, fences or buildings. And it is better if this place is on a hill, and not in a lowland, where even on sandy soils rain and melt water often stagnate. Then, on one of the fine days, when the soil has dried out somewhat and stopped sticking, you can begin to study the soil. It is enough to dig several times to approximately determine the type of soil:

the lump is heavy and sticks strongly to the shovel - the soil is clay (by adding 2-3 buckets of coarse sand and peat, you can improve the drainage of the soil and make it suitable for onions)
if the soil is easily broken by a shovel, most likely the soil is sandy loam or loam (both options are quite acceptable for cultivation);

but when the soil simply crumbles without forming lumps and blocks, then it is sandstone (it is necessary to add compost or humus, because such organic matter not only provides planting nutrients, but also helps retain moisture in the soil).

Soil acidity can also be determined without special means and drugs. Take a look at what weeds are growing in the area, you will notice - horsetail, horse sorrel, plantain - these are acidic soils, and to successfully grow onions, it is worth adding chalk or lime to the designated area (about 1-2 kg per 1 sq.m of land). If nettle, clover, woodlice, and wheatgrass are more common, then these are slightly acidic soils, but the common bindweed, shepherd’s purse, adonis or spurge indicate neutral acidity.

Even novice gardeners understand the need for soil fertility. But the organics recommended in specialized articles: fresh manure, rotted mullein, and even the contents of compost heaps often confuse garden beginners: “Where can I get all this and how to work with it?” Therefore, let’s do it simpler: if you doubt the fertility of the soil, before planting onion sets and digging up the garden bed, prepare the fertilizer yourself.

Crushed (without roots and seeds) weeds are suitable as organic matter - such as nettle, dandelion, tansy or shepherd's purse. You can also buy ready-made concentrate natural fertilizer based on peat - Humate, which, according to the instructions, is also scattered before digging. And as a mineral supplement, purchase nitroammophoska - a complex preparation containing the necessary nitrogen, potassium, and phosphates.

It is impossible to simultaneously apply agents that reduce soil acidity (wood ash, chalk, lime) and organic matter, since their interaction leads to a decrease in nitrogen in the soil, which is so necessary for growing crops. It is better to carry out these activities in two stages - autumn and spring.

Having dug up the area chosen for the onion, you need to form a bed. Its size depends on the planting method and the number of sets. Following advice experienced gardeners, it makes sense to organize mixed plantings, alternating rows of onions with carrots, beets or berry plantings. And such cultivation is really useful: in addition to saving space on the site, the plants will protect each other from pests and prevent the spread of diseases. And for a novice gardener, this is an opportunity to try their hand at growing several crops at once without unnecessary “labor feats” and care.

Preparation of planting material

Growing onions from sets is undoubtedly the most convenient, effective and most quick way getting the harvest. Buy planting material It’s quite simple - the sets are sold in various varieties, sizes, and shapes. At the same time, the expected harvest of turnip bulbs may differ in weight, taste, expected shelf life and their use. And if everyone has their own taste preferences, then the size is worth mentioning: qualified gardeners prefer to buy smaller sets, because in this case the number of bulbs in a sold unit of weight or volume will be greater. But on the other hand, under unfavorable conditions or lack of proper care, it is difficult to grow full-fledged, large bulbs from such “small fry”, especially if there is not enough experience. Therefore, we recommend that beginners plant larger sets so as not to be disappointed in gardening at their first attempts.

Before planting an onion, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures aimed at activating its vitality and preventing diseases.

The sets are heated in hot water(t 35-40 °C) with the addition of a pink solution of potassium permanganate or any suitable fungicide (antifungal drugs sold in flower or gardening stores). This will not only kill possible infections, but will also reduce the likelihood of onions “shooting” in the future.
Now it is dipped in a salt solution (a glass of salt per liter of water) for 1.5-2 hours so that pests cannot “feast” on the future harvest.
When everything is done, the sets must be washed. Then, if the bulbs have underdeveloped or too dry roots, they are kept in a root formation stimulator (you can buy a ready-made preparation in the store or make it yourself: for 1 liter of water + 2 tablespoons of honey + 2 tablespoons of aloe juice).

The seed prepared in this way is already sufficiently saturated with moisture, disinfected and ready for the beginning of the growing season. You can start planting according to sowing norms and in pre-marked rows.

Care, watering and fertilizing before harvesting

In about a week, the first green sprouts will appear in the garden bed, and soon the even rows of onions will need care. All you have to do is regularly pull out the weeds and, in dry weather, water the garden bed.

As a top dressing, if you were unable to “get hold of” an infusion of mullein or bird droppings, you can use the same thing that you added to the soil before planting.

Chopped greens (mown grass, tops, cut young twigs, weeds, even with seeds) are poured into any container, filled to the top with water and left to ferment for 5-7 days. After that, the infusion is filtered and added when watering at the rate of 1 liter per bucket of water. If you don’t have time to tinker with grass, you can use organic Humate powder as a fertilizer according to the instructions. That's all the simple care.

Two weeks before the expected harvest (when the green part of the onion has turned yellow and began to lie down), all watering is stopped, and the drying soil is carefully raked with a hoe or by hand so that the bulbs ripen in the sun.

In order not to miss the moment of harvesting, you need to check the condition of the turnip - pull one out and look at its roots - they should begin to dry out. But if new white roots appear, this means that the plant is entering the next growing season, which should not be allowed, because the taste of the onion is lost and its keeping quality is reduced.

The harvested crop is transferred to the shade under a canopy, where there is good air circulation. There the bulbs remain until the greens, roots dry completely and dense yellow scales form. When the onion is dry, it is stored in the basement or pantry.

If you need to prepare a sleigh in the summer, then a vegetable garden is better in the fall. Proper cultivation during this period includes preparing the soil (digging and adding various substrates to improve its physical characteristics), applying fertilizers, and for some crops also mulching and covering winter plantings. Such actions significantly increase next year's harvest. It is best to prepare the beds in the fall under various cultures taking into account the requirements of each of them.

How to prepare strawberry beds for winter

Strawberries, or garden strawberries, accumulate resources for future fruiting in the fall. Therefore, if you want to get a rich harvest of berries, and also protect them from frost, read in advance how to prepare strawberries for winter in the garden.

Autumn is the time to prepare the garden for the new season.

Autumn care for strawberry plantings

The main activities for caring for strawberries are best carried out after the end of fruiting, at the end of July, in August or at the beginning of September. What to do during this period:

Carefully, so as not to damage the growing points of young leaves, cut off old leaves and tendrils;
remove weeds from the area;
loosen the soil between the bushes, while hilling the plants a little (do not cover the growing point);
apply fertilizers and, if necessary, treat with insecticides;
Water the plantings abundantly, but not often, soaking the soil well.

Trimming old leaves

The root system of the plant is superficial, even with proper preparation of the strawberry bed it is injured, therefore, the sooner you treat the plantings, the stronger the bushes will be and the better they will withstand the winter. In the fall, especially before frost, do not pull out weeds in the area; leave this activity until spring.

Fertilizing strawberry plantings

After the strawberries have finished fruiting, don’t forget to feed them. Before winter sets in, you need to do this twice:

Immediately after harvesting (late July - early September) - use nitroammophoska, scattering it around the bushes (consumption 25-30 g per 1 sq. m.), or prepare its aqueous solution (2 tbsp. per 10 liters of water), pouring 0.5 liters for each bush. You can also use organic fertilizers, for example, mullein. Dilute it with water 1:3, leave for two days, add 1 glass of ash and apply 0.5 liters to each plant.
In late autumn (from the end of October), mulch the strawberry beds with humus or rotted compost, consumption 3–5 kg per 1 sq. m. m. You can also add superphosphate.

Sprinkle fertilizer around the bushes

When fertilizing the area, avoid getting fertilizers (especially dry mineral ones) on the leaves and growing points of plants, this can cause burns and destroy the bushes.

Ideal winter shelter

Garden strawberries, if there is ample snow cover, tolerate frost well, but cold winters with little snow can destroy the plants. To avoid this outcome, do not forget to insulate the strawberry beds in the fall after establishing a stable subzero temperature. You shouldn’t do this before; slight frosts will be beneficial.

The list of materials that can be used for shelter is quite extensive, but each has its own advantages and disadvantages:

Leaves, hay, straw are the most available materials, but they cake, it is quite difficult to separate them from the plants in the spring, the bushes under them can rot, and mice often overwinter in the straw, damaging strawberry plantings.
Pine needles, spruce branches - optimal choice for shelter, has good air permeability, which prevents damping out, but at the same time retains heat well.
Agrofibre - protects crops well from freezing, but it must be stretched over pre-installed arcs (the so-called air-dry shelter) so that the material does not come into contact with the plants, otherwise they will freeze even more than in the open air.

Covering strawberries for the winter with straw

In regions with little snowy winters, pay attention not only to the plants, but also to the row spacing, mulch them with leaves, straw, grass, and so on. This way you will protect the superficial root system of strawberries, because the soil will dry out, freeze and crack less.

Autumn preparation of beds

Plots for annuals garden crops also prepared in the fall. Over the winter, the soil sags, becomes saturated with added mineral and organic compounds, and by spring it is almost completely ready for new plantings.

Preparing a bed for onions

Preparing beds for onions in the fall begins with choosing a location. Set them up where cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, potatoes grew, these are the best predecessor plants. Avoid places where garlic, carrots and, naturally, onions grew. old place it can be returned in 3-5 years. Compliance with sewing cycles not only optimizes plant nutrition, but also protects them from pests and pathogens.

Basic requirements for a landing site:

sunny, open area;
no weeds;
non-acidic loamy or sandy loam soil;
moderate soil moisture.

Fertilizers are evenly distributed throughout the area

If the area that was planned to be allocated for onions does not correspond to the ideal, it does not matter, everything can be corrected. So, lime acidic soil two years before planting onions. In addition to slaked lime, you can use wood ash, chalk, limestone and other substances. Build high beds on waterlogged soils.

Now about how to properly prepare a bed for onions. Autumn activities in this matter are quite simple:

remove weeds;
apply fertilizer;
Dig the soil to the depth of a spade.

Small sets for autumn planting

How to fertilize a bed for onions? Before digging, apply organic fertilizers, optimally 5 kg of compost or humus and 1 kg of wood ash per 1 sq. m. m. You can use chicken manure at the rate of 200 g per square meter. m. In addition, mineral fertilizers are applied in the fall. For example, 20 g of double superphosphate and 15 g of calcium chloride per 1 sq. m of territory.

The recommended width of the onion bed is 45–90 cm, and the length is determined mainly by the size of the plot. When determining the optimal parameters for sowing, keep in mind that the width between the furrows for planting onions should be about 20 cm, and the distance between the sets should be about 8 cm. Do not forget to leave wide passages between the plantings, they will greatly facilitate the care of crops.

Some gardeners practice autumn planting Luke. To do this, select the smallest set, less than 1 cm in diameter. Plant it in early October, about 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost. Deepen the bulbs into the ground 3 cm, and mulch the top with leaves, straw, pine needles or spruce branches.

Preparing a bed for carrots

Do you want to know how to prepare a carrot bed in the fall to get a good harvest next year? The main activities during this period come down to choosing a location, digging and fertilizing the soil. Proper preparation will allow you to grow beautiful root crops and significantly increase productivity.

Choose a place in the garden, taking into account the compatibility of the crop with its predecessor plants. It is better if the carrot bed is laid out in the place where potatoes, legumes, cabbage, and tomatoes previously grew. It is advisable that carrots should not be sown here for the previous 4-5 years. The following soil parameters are optimal for root crops:

high level humus;
pH (acidity coefficient) 5.6 – 7;
easy permeability (loose loams or sandy soils).

Carrots grown on unprepared soil

Please note that in heavy or rocky soils, the roots will grow small and twisted. A similar effect is observed when fresh manure is added before planting.

Ideal preparation of a bed for carrots should take into account the characteristics of the soil on the site:

peat - per 1 sq. m of land, add 5 kg of river sand, 3-5 kg of humus, 6 kg of turf soil;
clayey and podzolic - per 1 sq. m – 1–2 buckets of peat and sand, 1 bucket of humus, 3–5 kg of sawdust (preferably not fresh);
light loamy - the same as for clay soils, only without sand;
chernozem - per 1 sq. m – 0.5 buckets of small stale sawdust and 1 bucket of sand.

Preparation high ridges for carrots

In addition, add superphosphate from mineral fertilizers at the rate of 20 g per 1 square meter. m (some replace it with wood ash), as well as potassium salt - 10–15 g per 1 sq. m. After adding all the substances, dig up the area 1-2 shovels deep and level the surface.

The size of the carrot beds largely depends on the size of the plot, but experts do not recommend making them too wide. Narrow beds 45–90 cm wide and wide row spacing will provide the plants with maximum illumination. Please note that plantings should be placed at a distance of 25 cm between rows. The depth of the carrot bed should be at least 30 cm.

Preparing a bed for garlic

A bed for garlic in the fall is prepared both for planting winter varieties in open ground before the onset of frost, and for planting spring varieties in the spring. Site preparation usually begins in early September, and the basics of agricultural technology are the same for all types of plants. Answering the question: how to properly make a bed for garlic, we can highlight several important stages:

choosing a location taking into account planting changes and soil characteristics;
removing weeds and digging up the soil to a depth of 25–30 cm;
application of fertilizers.

Winter garlic, prepared for planting

Place the bed for winter garlic where pumpkins, legumes, and early cabbage grew. It can be returned to its original planting site no earlier than three years later, but if you still have to plant plants there again, pay attention to how to treat the garden bed after garlic in order to prevent diseases. To do this, water the soil with a solution of 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, consumption is approximately 1 bucket per 2 square meters. m. After watering, cover the ground with film.

Garlic prefers light, dry areas with light sandy loam soil. You can “improve” other soils with simple additions:

heavy clay soils - 1 bucket of peat and river sand per 1 sq. m;
peat soils - 1 bucket of river sand and loamy soil per 1 sq. m of territory;
sandy soils - 2 buckets of clay soil and 1 bucket of peat per 1 sq. m plot.

Garlic plantings mulched with humus

A garlic bed needs fertilizer in the fall:

organic - preferably compost or humus (1 bucket per 1 sq. m), but in no case fresh manure, it significantly increases the incidence of plantings and the susceptibility of plants to various microorganisms;
mineral - 2 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp. l. double superphosphate, 1 tbsp. dolomite flour and it is possible, but not necessary, 2 tbsp. wood ash per 1 sq. m.

Do I need to close the beds for the winter? It all depends on the climate and winter characteristics in a particular region. Garlic is quite frost-resistant, but severe winters with little snow can significantly thin out the plantings, even despite mulching with peat or humus. Therefore, after the onset of frost, it is better to cover the beds with pine needles, leaves, sawdust, and tops.

Preparing a bed for cucumbers

Cucumbers are plants that are not very demanding on the composition of the soil, but still best harvests collected on sandy and loamy soils with neutral (or close to it) acidity. It is important that the area for this crop is not swampy. Nevertheless, proper processing will help to grow vegetables in any area, the main thing is to do it in advance.

The perfect cucumber bed

Don't know how to prepare a bed for cucumbers in the fall? Follow these tips:

Determine the location, preferably taking into account the planting shift schedule. Onions, legumes, cabbage, potatoes, and tomatoes are considered good predecessors of cucumbers. Do not plant them where other cucurbits have previously grown.
Prepare a trench or add borders for a raised bed. Place branches, straw, sawdust, and leaves on the bottom.
Apply fertilizers: mineral fertilizers are added during spring cultivation, and fresh manure is applied to the beds in the fall so that it “settles” a little over the winter. Although, experts are divided on when to put manure on the beds. Some advise doing this only in the fall, while others say that you can do it in the spring, adding 100 g of nitrophoska and 3 cups of wood ash per square meter of land.
Pour water over the manure and cover it with fertile soil approximately 30 - 40 cm.

Cucumbers love manure fertilization

The use of this technology will accelerate plant germination, the appearance of fruits and significantly increase the yield of vegetables. However, if it is not possible to create them, use another technology:

Dig up the beds in the fall and sow rye.
In the spring, two weeks before planting cucumbers, distribute humus over the area (3 buckets per 1 sq. m).
If necessary, add a soil loosening agent (stale sawdust, sand, etc.).
Dig up the ground, incorporating green manure and fertilizers into the soil.

Working in the garden requires a lot of effort and time, but it rewards you with high-quality environmentally friendly products. Proper preparation of the site in the fall, taking into account the individual needs of crops, significantly increases their yield, and helps perennials survive the winter without loss.

Preface

To grow tasty and juicy onions on your plot, you need to put a little effort into preparing the seed and subsequent care of the crop, which includes weeding, watering and fertilizing

According to most gardeners, the best time to plant onions is when the weather is consistently warm. And all because the soil must warm up thoroughly. If you carry out work earlier, when the soil temperature is below +12-14 °C, this will lead to the fact that the onions will ripen into feathers (only greens will grow), and the bulbs will not develop. As a rule, the optimal time for planting onion sets is the end of April.

Planting onion sets in April

But remember also that you should not be late in planting this crop. If the soil temperature is too high, the bulbs will ripen slowly and may not have time to form for normal storage. To choose the right time, you can study moon calendar landings for 2016. According to him, the favorable time for planting onions is after April 25. If you prefer summer planting crops, you should choose either June 15 or July 13.

If you are going to plant seedlings in the fall, you should choose mid-October, when the ground is not yet completely frozen. The favorable period for carrying out work is October 10, but no later than the 15th. True, to prevent onions from freezing in winter, it is necessary to cover the beds with an additional layer of snow when the temperature drops below -12 °C. A in early spring Before removing the beds, be sure to scatter the snow in different directions to avoid water stagnation in the garden.

Having decided to plant onions on your site, the first step you must take is to prepare the seed. If you purchased onion sets, you need to dry them. Seed grown on your own site should be heated at a temperature of about +40 °C. At the same time, heating is a rather lengthy process, which consists of two stages: we warm the onions for 21 days at a temperature of +20 °C, and keep the onions for about 12 hours at a temperature of +35 °C.

After this, you need to soak the seeds in a growth stimulator (for example, in Epine or Silke). If you don't have the opportunity to step-by-step preparation seed, processing of onions before planting will be as follows:

soaking the onion in water heated to a temperature of +50 °C for 15 minutes;
immersion of seed material into cold water for 10 minutes (this process is called hardening);
treatment of seedlings in solution complex fertilizer within 5 hours.

Treatment of seedlings with a solution of complex fertilizer

One more mandatory procedure Before planting, the seedlings are disinfected. For treatment, you can use a weak solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (to prepare the mixture, mix 40 g of the product in a bucket of water).

There is also one fairly effective “grandmother’s” method:

dry the sets for a week at a temperature of about +25 °C;
the next step is soaking the planting material in a saline solution (2 tablespoons of salt per 2 liters of water) for three hours;
rinse the onions;
immerse the seed in a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate for 2–3 hours;
rinse again;
dry the onions.

This completes the preparation of onion sets for greens.

Before preparing the soil for planting, you need to choose a suitable place for arranging the bed. It is important to remember that this crop is light-loving, so the place where the onions will grow should be open and well-lit. In addition, this crop is moisture-loving, but cannot withstand excessive amounts of water. That is why try to choose beds where groundwater does not flow.

Soil preparation begins in autumn. Onions love loose and nutritious soil, so you need to: dig the beds to a depth of 20 cm; add peat manure compost. Important nuance– it is necessary to fertilize the soil only at the soil preparation stage. But you should not add it to the ground, as this will lead to the rapid growth of weeds, in addition, the green part of the onion will quickly grow, and the root system will not keep up with it. As a result, you will not be able to grow onions suitable for storage.

Adding peat manure compost to the soil

Before planting the seeds, you should not add chicken manure or humus to the soil. Soil preparation also includes checking the soil acidity level. If the soil is acidic, before planting the seeds you should liming using one of the following ingredients: dolomite flour, lime, chalk, wood ash. Don't forget about one important point– lime and manure should not be applied to the garden bed at the same time, since such measures reduce the level of nitrogen in the fertilizer. But it is permissible to reduce the acidity of the soil using other means that we described above.

IN spring time soil preparation consists of loosening the soil and applying mineral supplements. Before planting onions (about a week in advance), water the bed with the following solution: a tablespoon of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water.

Before planting, be sure to sort the bulbs, since depending on the size of the planting material, the distance between the sets in the beds is determined. The onion planting pattern should be as follows:

bulbs up to 1 cm in size are placed on the bed at a distance of approximately 5 cm;
bulbs up to 1.5 cm - at a distance of 8 cm;
larger seed - for minimum distance at 10 cm.

Sorting of planting material

If we talk about beds, they should be at a distance of at least 25 cm. Planting depth is about 4 cm. After immersing the seedlings in the soil, the soil around the bulbs must be pressed tightly, and the planting material itself should be covered with a layer of mulch of about 3 cm. As a mulching material you can use straw, sawdust, peat or small pebbles. There is one “grandmother’s secret”: make a hole in the garden bed for planting onions, water it, and add a little sand to the bottom. According to gardeners, onions in such beds will grow much faster.

Onions, like other vegetables, have desirable and undesirable “predecessor crops”. Desirables include cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes, as well as vegetables, when planted they add a large amount of “organic matter” to the soil. Undesirable predecessors include carrots and garlic - onions can only be planted in the beds where these crops grew after 3 years.

Caring for onions will not cause you any trouble. The main thing is timely weeding, loosening and watering of the plant. Let's take a closer look at each of the events:

Loosening. Carry out work correctly before the first shoots appear. The frequency of the event is once every 14 days, which will avoid the formation of an earthen crust in the garden bed.
Watering. Immediately after planting the onion sets, you need to water them once a week. There are about 7 liters of water per square meter of soil. Since July, the amount of watering has been reduced.
Feeding. Onions are one of the crops that practically do not need feeding, but there are several points. So, for the first time you can apply fertilizer a couple of weeks after planting. Apply a manure solution of 500 g of manure to 5 liters of water into the bed. You can also feed onions with a solution of bird droppings - dissolve 500 g of bird droppings in 7 liters of water. As a top dressing, you can use dry mineral fertilizers (in the form of granules), which are simply sprinkled on the soil before watering.

Those gardeners who think that caring for onions should not include removing weeds are deeply mistaken. The area where you plan to grow the crop should be free of weeds. Otherwise, it will be quite difficult for you to get rid of them without damaging the onion when the greens begin to grow. In addition to weeding, care should include the use of chemicals to treat the bed with the plant. It is best to use the tool Roundup, which effectively fights weeds and is at the same time safe for the plantings themselves.

"Roundup" for treating onion beds from weeds

Diseases and pests have a negative impact on both the greens and the bulbs. That is why crop care must include measures to combat them. The most harmful insect is onion flour, which appears already in May with the first shoots. To protect onions from the invasion of this pest, be sure to treat the crops with insecticides. It is best to use tools such as Zolon and Volaton.

Peronosporiasis is one of the most dangerous. This is an analogue of late blight, which affects tomatoes and other vegetables in the garden. With this disease, the greens begin to darken and dry out, and the bulbs will be unsuitable for storage. The main way to combat the disease is spraying using such means as Ridomil Gold and Acrobat.

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