home

Signaling

How to line a bathhouse from the inside - how to choose the material. Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to decorate it, what options are there, examples with photos. What is the best way to line the inside of a bathhouse?

How to line a bathhouse from the inside - how to choose the material. Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to decorate it, what options are there, examples with photos. What is the best way to line the inside of a bathhouse?

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding
Bath lining
Block house for a bathhouse
Magelan

The history of such a simple but necessary invention as a bathhouse goes back many years, but even today, this building practically does not lose its relevance. A shower and bath cannot completely replace a bathhouse, because in it you can not only get rid of dirt, but also improve your health. Usually a bathhouse consists of a dressing room, a sink and a steam room, but the last two points are often combined.

When building each of these rooms, it is necessary to decide how best to line the bathhouse from the inside, because the air temperature in the room will depend on this, as well as the amount of fuel needed to heat it. In this article we will talk about all the most popular and reliable options for lining the inside of a bathhouse.

Don’t rush to think about how best to line the inside of the bathhouse, because lining may not be needed at all. The task of the internal lining of the bathhouse is to preserve internal heat for a long period of time, which will significantly reduce fuel consumption and combustion time. Thus, we can conclude that the cladding is an integral part of the bathhouse, but this is not entirely true, because a bathhouse built from solid timber using old technologies does not need additional insulation(more details: “Pair clapboard cladding - how to do it right”).

Having built a bathhouse from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a cladding material.

First of all, you need to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:

It must withstand high temperatures and be non-flammable;
Steam and moisture resistance are also necessary indicators;
It is advisable to choose natural materials without harmful chemical treatments, so as not to harm your health with harmful fumes.

Speaking specifically about what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse, it is worth mentioning lining, block house and magnolite. Of the three options presented, choosing one can also be difficult, so below we will talk in detail about each of them.

Bath lining

Lining is the most popular material for covering a bathhouse, because it combines all the most necessary qualities: reliability, beauty and reasonable price.

The lining also has a number of useful properties:

Lining allows you to save a large amount of fuel, reducing heat consumption;
Behind it you can hide various communications, increasing the level of comfort indoors;
The lining is resistant to moisture and steam; in addition, it is able to regulate the level of moisture in the steam room and allows the walls of the bath to “breathe”.
Longevity and resistance to the formation of fungus and mold are also important properties that this material has.

Next we should talk about making the right choice material. First of all, pay attention to the fact that the price for lining up to 1.5 m is slightly lower than for material from 2 m, so it’s worth choosing a short length. When installing a short lining, use a batten in the middle to avoid various difficulties (more: “Which lining is best for a bathhouse - a review of materials for a bathhouse, dressing room and shower”).

It is also worth paying attention to the wood from which the lining is made:

The best option for a steam room is linden, because when heated it releases essential oils, which have a disinfectant and anti-inflammatory effect. Another advantage of this wood is its low thermal conductivity, which helps protect the skin and respiratory tract from burns, while increasing sweating.
Aspen is a worthy alternative to linden. The price of aspen lining is quite low, and the material itself is resistant to moisture and rotting processes. Warming up, aspen promotes health person.
It is recommended to use larch in the shower, because it has high strength and resistance to water. Larch lining has a positive effect on well-being and helps improve immunity.
The steam room can also be finished with white acacia clapboard. Acacia is a very durable tree, so products made from it last a very long time. The only disadvantage of this wood is the high price.

You can see an example of such cladding in the photo.

Block house for a bathhouse

If you cannot decide what to cover the inside of the steam room with besides the lining, then think about the block house, because it has similar qualities, but a different appearance. The block house has a semi-oval shape, so walls made of this material look like a log house, which gives “historical naturalness” to your bathhouse. The strength and resistance to various influences of the block house are quite high, however, it is recommended to carry out bactericidal treatment once a year.

Block houses are classified by quality:

Class "C" material undergoes only surface treatment; various defects may be present on its surface, for example, cracks or chips. This material is not recommended for installation in a bathhouse;
Block house class "B" It is of average quality and is extremely rarely used for finishing baths. On its surface there may be small cracks and knots no more than 3 cm;
On the surface of class "A" material you will not find any flaws, with the exception of small knots. This option is great for a bath.
« Extra" class has perfect processing, and its surface is free of any imperfections. Ideal for finishing baths, but also has a fairly high price.

The block house is made from various types of wood, but only hardwood and coniferous materials are suitable for the bathhouse. Remember that using spruce and pine is highly discouraged, because you can burn your skin on their heated surface.

Magelan

This is modern, however, not the best material for lining a bathhouse on the construction market.

If you are thinking about how to cover the inside of the dressing room other than lining, then you can undoubtedly resort to this option; in addition, it is perfect for other rooms due to its qualities:

It is completely unaffected by moisture and rotting processes;
High temperature, as well as temperature changes, do not harm this material;
Magnelite sheets are quite easy to install.

This covering is made from the following materials: fine wood shavings, magnesium and other non-natural components, which are reinforced with glass mesh. By making the lining of a bathhouse from such material, you reduce the environmental component of the room.

Conclusion

Now you are familiar with all the options for interior lining of the sauna and can independently decide how to line the inside of the sauna, starting from own desires and financial situation.

Bath buildings are built from logs, concrete and cinder blocks, bricks and other building materials. The lining of the interior with clapboard remains unchanged. In this article we will tell you what other finishing and decorative items can be used in the bath.

In addition to lining, what can you use to cover bathhouse buildings?

The choice of finish depends on the purpose of the room.

Inside the building, in addition to the steam room, there is a relaxation room, an entrance hall (dressing room), a bathroom or a washing room. If desired, the project includes a terrace, a residential attic, or several square meters for a small pool.

Lining is a universal material; with proper processing, it can cover all walls and ceilings, but it will turn out too monotonous.

Therefore, diverse interior decoration of the bathhouse is chosen.

1. Steam room.

Already from the name it is clear that this room is periodically maintained at 100% humidity and high temperature.

We need a finishing material that can withstand such changes and also does not emit substances harmful to humans during heating: formaldehyde, ammonia, phenol and others.

The specified parameters are suitable only solid wood, so the owners always try to line the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard made of linden, aspen, cedar, and abasha (African oak).
Often planed products from larch or pine are used, but in this case it is necessary to choose slow-growing varieties, since so-called resin pockets do not form in them. Accordingly, the resin will not constantly be released on the surface.
The bathhouse, in addition to the lining, can be finished with more budget options– edged or unedged board from various types of wood - linden, cedar, alder, aspen.
Only untreated wood will need to be pre-prepared for installation - remove the bark and sapwood, sand it and coat it with wood-protective water-based varnishes or impregnations with a biocidal effect.
Wall cladding inside brick bath planed board gives a much better heat-intensive effect, since the thickness of the molded products exceeds the cross-section of the lining by 1.5-3 times.
Do not try to cover the steam room and other rooms with sheets of sawdust: plywood, chipboard, OSB and other analogues, even moisture-resistant ones.
During the heating process, thermosetting resins containing sawdust begin to emit toxic fumes. The result is poisoning of the body instead of healing.
On the ceiling except for lining or edged boards designers offer a non-standard option - tempered frosted glass, under which lighting is mounted.
The bathhouse will turn out to be very unusual, but modern.
The floor can be covered with clinker or heat-resistant ceramic floor tiles with a special anti-slip coating. It is hygienic and will withstand high temperatures perfectly.
And lastly: if the bathhouse is made of rounded or profiled logs, then the finishing technology inside the building does not require covering the ceiling and walls with anything.
It is enough to treat all surfaces with fire-bioprotective compounds on a water or oil-wax basis with a moisture-resistant effect.

2. Bathroom.

A bathhouse without a washing station is unthinkable. Invariably, the best material for bathrooms and toilets are ceramic products: tiles, mosaics, porcelain stoneware.
This is convenient and inexpensive, since you not only need to cover it with clapboard, but also take care of its safety. That is, constantly treat the lining with protective agents with a moisture-resistant and biocidal effect. Tiles don't need this.
The walls and ceiling are finished with decorative waterproof plaster, plastic panels or plasterboard or glass magnesite for painting with waterproof compounds, but only if the steam room is thermally insulated according to all the rules.
But for the floor in the bathroom, the choice of products is more extensive.
How to line a bathhouse inside: beautiful and inexpensive

Traditionally, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used, but you can sheathe a small room with a modern waterproof laminate made of composite plastic (Duma Floor, Aqua-Step) or special moisture-resistant floor panels, which are offered by the most famous manufacturers of laminated flooring. floor coverings– Egger, Quick Step, Alloc and others.

Waiting room.

By definition, it is intended for changing clothes and precedes the entrance to the steam room. To set the mood in the appropriate manner, they also try to cover this unique vestibule with clapboard, but here you should not limit yourself to finishing options.
A multifunctional bathhouse is an excellent field for applying your imagination in the field of design.
You can cover the walls with decorative clinker or ceramic tiles to imitate stone or brick, wallpaper, including fiberglass, paint them in any color, apply decorative plaster, or cover them with plastic or veneer planks.
The floor in the intermediate room requires a more or less moisture-resistant material - PVC linoleum or natural marmoleum, vinyl or ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, edged boards and even plywood or chipboard for varnish.
The ceiling inside the dressing room, in addition to the lining, can be sheathed with panels or simply painted.
Ceiling wallpaper on a non-woven or fiberglass base will look good.

Rest room.

The good thing about a bathhouse is that, in addition to everything else, it almost always has a room for relaxation. To create a special mood, use laminate and MDF or PVC panels with wood decor, vinyl or quartz vinyl tiles, and wallpaper with a corresponding pattern.
Some paint and varnish manufacturers offer special mixtures that allow you to imitate wood on any mineral or old wooden surfaces.
For example, the Dulux series has two-component Trade BrushWood paint. A bathhouse made of bricks or concrete blocks is first lined with sheets of SML, gypsum board, OSB, then a composition is applied over the puttied and primed surface, which, after drying, creates a wood texture that is visually almost indistinguishable from natural.

Lining - pros and cons

Summarizing the above, it is worth noting that a bathhouse cannot do without lining.

This is the best finishing material, as it has a unique set of positive properties:

Low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity.
Resistance to temperature and humidity changes.
Resistance to splitting.
Optimal noise reduction ratio.
Pleasant, healing smell.
Easy to install.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting that the lining is susceptible to rotting and woodworms, but the problem can be solved - it is enough to treat the surface with special protective compounds for baths and saunas in order to forget about problems with wood for 3-5 years.

Below, watch a useful video about what materials can be used to cover a bathhouse.

Characteristics of a log house
Features of modern baths
How to choose the right lining for cladding
Basics of lining installation
Washing room: selection of finishing material
The nuances of finishing a fresh log house with the effect of settlement

Since ancient times, bathhouses were built exclusively from wood, and such log houses were extremely effective. The article will talk about the advantages of finishing a bathhouse with clapboard compared to using a bare log frame.

Characteristics of a log house

Initially, the features of the Russian log bathhouse were high humidity in the steam compartment and the environmental friendliness of the materials used in construction.

Logs are relevant as construction material to this day, since the most important thing for a bathhouse is massive, heat-intensive and hygroscopic walls.

At the beginning of the procedures, the walls absorb the released moisture and then release it evenly. Experienced bath attendants have even heard how logs “hiss” from condensed moisture absorbed into the pores of the wood.

The presentability and aesthetics of a Russian bathhouse is determined by the massiveness of the log house. The last conclusion can be made on the basis of photographs and ancient paintings, where the bathhouse always looks like an oversized building made of huge logs.

The main disadvantage of a log house is that it takes a very long time to heat the bathhouse.

In standard log cabins of Ancient Rus', preparation took about four hours. Logs do not last long under such operating conditions, although they are the cheapest building material.

Features of modern baths

However, we were talking exclusively about Russian baths that have survived to this day, but not about modern buildings. Today, when building baths, builders solve the problem of reducing the consumption of thermal energy, as well as reducing the heating time to 30-60 minutes.

For these purposes, the mass of the finishing layer of wood in the bathhouse premises is reduced. Usually, the bathhouse is lined with clapboard about 1 centimeter thick, and thermal insulation material with a foil layer is attached under it.

The advantage of this design is rapid heating and minimum consumption fuel, but at the same time the rooms cool down faster, fuel needs to be added regularly, and therefore the differences with a real Russian bathhouse are significant.

The walls of such a bath do not accumulate steam, and therefore expensive stoves or steam generator units should be used to create it.

During bath procedures, steam must be supplied regularly, which requires the constant presence of a bath attendant or one of the visitors next to the unit.

How to choose the right lining for cladding

Before starting work, you should decide which clapboard is best to cover the steam room of the bathhouse.

High-quality lining must meet the following criteria:

breathable structure (wooden), which has an antiseptic effect (fungus and mold do not form) and provides a kind of moisture ventilation;
environmentally friendly material with complete safety for the human body.

At the early stages of production, lining strips were made with tongue-and-groove and quarter-tongue fastenings.

To date, these options have been abandoned, since the fastenings quickly wore out and failed during operation.

Tongue/groove is the most popular method of fastening products today.

The following recommendation will be useful for novice builders. It’s quite easy to save on material if you buy planks 1.5 meters long rather than longer ones (2 meters). Sheathing the room is not much more difficult. The amount of material should be calculated for the area to be covered, minus window and doorways.

Basics of lining installation

If we're talking about about how to sheathe the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard, then the vertical arrangement of the slats will lead to their uneven heating during the heating process.

Horizontal placement of the material will reduce the degree of drying out and expansion during operation. Also, horizontal fastening of the planks is necessary to visually lengthen a room with a small area.

Other advantages of horizontal installation of lining:

near darkened floors, replacing facing material is simplified;
moisture does not penetrate into the joints between the planks, and therefore the material dries faster after completing the paired procedures;
air ventilation behind such a facing layer is much better, but for maximum efficiency you need to create a high-quality sheathing on which the lining will be fixed;
also, the frame under the lining will be an excellent barrier for rodents who want to chew on the thermal insulation material;
finally, installation work are greatly simplified if the planks are placed in a horizontal position.

Washing room: selection of finishing material

After you have lined the bathhouse with clapboard inside the steam room with your own hands, you should take care of finishing the room where washing is carried out after the end of the procedures.

These two rooms differ in temperature, but the humidity in them is equally high.

In this regard, it will not be possible to completely cover the bathhouse with clapboard, or a number of conditions must be met:

You can only use moisture-resistant material based on larch wood;
it is necessary to install a powerful hood on the ceiling in a clapboard bathhouse that will effectively cope with moisture;
if the material is less protected, then you need to take care of its full treatment with various compounds that increase resistance to moisture.

If these conditions are met, the wood will not deform in conditions of high humidity, and unpleasant stains, mold, mildew, etc. will not form on it.

The most popular remedy is antifungal water impregnation, which will also protect the wood from various insects.

You can avoid the costs of implementing all of the above conditions if you use polyvinyl chloride plastic lining as an alternative to natural wood material.

This material is easy to install and operate, and its service life is no less than that of natural material.

However, it is worth noting that PVC lining is not suitable for a steam room, since plastic will not be able to withstand high temperatures.

As for the washing room, the material is safe from excessive temperature loads, and visitors are safe from harmful substances released when the plastic is heated.

The cost of PVC lining is lower than that of natural material. When the owner finishes the bathhouse with clapboards with his own hands, additional costs will only be required for the installation of a high-quality vapor barrier layer.

Also, do not forget about the ventilation gap between the cladding and the wall.

Thus, a certain sequence of layers will be observed:

lathing of the required thickness;
vapor barrier film;
support rails;
PVC lining.

The nuances of finishing a fresh log house with the effect of settlement

Perhaps one of the biggest problems for a bathhouse owner is that before cladding a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands, you need to wait a fairly long period.

The reason for this is the settling effect of a fresh building. For example, a settlement of 5 centimeters will lead to the destruction of a large number of lining strips.

The problem can be solved, but the technology described below should be used only as a last resort, when finishing must be done without fail. However, any specialist, speaking about how to properly clapboard a bathhouse from the inside, will advise you to wait the required period.

So, in a newly built bathhouse, finishing can be done using movable guides that will move after the frame.

The best way to line your bathhouse inside

On such a device, the bottom of the sheathing is fixed, as usual, rigidly, but the remaining functional elements move along guides.

There are several technologies for installing such fastenings, but when considering how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard, experts agree that the most effective and simplest option is the following option.

A slot is made to the width of the beam, which will subsequently hold the sheathing.

The wall will settle horizontally and will not affect the cladding in any way. You need to use large self-tapping screws as fasteners, or preferably galvanized nails.

All elements of the resulting structure must be placed so that there is a gap to the ceiling from the highest point, onto which the building is expected to settle.

As for the ceiling cladding, it should be mounted on a rough base, and not on a frame near the walls.

The formation of gaps between the wall and ceiling sheathing can be avoided if the ceiling is sheathed clearly at the level of the top point of the wall sheathing. Skirting boards should be nailed to the ceiling, not the wall.

This cladding technology is universal and even allows you to use tiles as a wall covering, but for this it should be attached to moisture-resistant cardboard mounted on the guides described above.

The worst thing is when the bathhouse is built from aerated concrete blocks, the heat capacity of which leaves much to be desired, and to be more precise, the material simply freezes in the cold season. Only a reliable insulated frame indoors can protect a bathhouse from the external influence of cold air masses.

There must be a gap between such a structure and the walls of the building. Use as finishing material in this case, the best is lime croaker. This material has unique thermal insulation properties and will allow you to concentrate all the thermal energy indoors.

Bottom line

The article discusses in detail how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboards and what materials to use.

From all of the above, we can conclude that cladding is not a complicated process and is not the most expensive. Properly guided by the information provided, you can complete all the work yourself. If desired, you can entrust them to specialists who will take responsibility for all stages - from procurement necessary materials before their installation and putting the bathhouse into operation.

Advantages of using lining in a bathhouse
Types of wood for finishing
Installation options for lining
Installation of lining in a bathhouse

The quality of the healing procedures of the bath largely depends on the level of thermal insulation of the steam room. By insulating the steam room, they achieve a reduction in heat loss and preserve the wooden structures of the bathhouse.

An important element of the thermal insulation system is the lining with paired lining. To decorate the inside of the steam room, you must use only natural materials. The use of lining not only effectively prevents heat loss, but is also much cheaper than cladding with natural wood.

Advantages of using lining in a bathhouse

Cladding in a steam room involves the use of wood, and the small thickness of the panels reduces the cost of constructing a steam room.

The advantages of using lining are:

Adjusting the humidity in the bath, preventing the possibility of condensation and fungal infection;
Ease of processing, obtaining a perfectly flat surface;
Good heat and sound insulation;
Eco-friendly material and beautiful appearance;
Long service life while maintaining original characteristics.

The most optimal solution would be to use not just lining, but eurolining.

Its difference is that the tongue-and-groove connection is increased to 8 mm, and the material has previously undergone forced drying. Having compensation slots on the reverse side of the lamellas, the eurolining does not crack. In addition, it participates in the ventilation process of the coating. Read also: “How to cover a steam room in a bathhouse - how to choose the right wood.”

Types of wood for finishing

The best wood species for baths are:

Linden, which retains heat well, releasing twice as much essential oils as other trees. Possessing hypoallergenic properties, it is ideal for the human body;
Aspen ordinary - in its medicinal properties it does not differ from linden;
Cedar has a pleasant smell when heated, is durable, and has healing properties;
Pine– durable, easily tolerates dampness and much cheaper than other wood species.
The disadvantage is that the resin releases when heated and the color changes over time.

Much less common is oak or ash lining.

Despite very high quality indicators, their price is so high that it is not affordable for most consumers. You can reduce the cost of lining a steam room in a bathhouse by using lining made of different breeds wood, based on location.

For example, in places where the body comes into contact with wood, use lining made of hardwood from deciduous species (larch, aspen, linden, ash, oak).

In other places, softwood will do just fine.

Installation options for lining

When starting the finishing work of the steam room, the main question will be how to arrange the lining in the bathhouse - vertically or horizontally. To select the location of the cladding elements in a horizontal or vertical plane, it is necessary to take into account not only aesthetics, but also the laws of physics, in which cold air accumulates below, and hot air rises up to the ceiling.

The vertical arrangement visually increases the height of the room, making it visually more spacious. However, temperature differences are observed within the same board due to the temperature difference between the top and bottom.

As a result, deformation changes may occur in the form of warping, propeller-bearing and other defects on the surface of the board. In addition, the process of rotting may begin in the lower part of the profiled board.

Important advantages of the horizontal arrangement of the lining when covering a steam room are:

Uniform heating of the board along its entire length;
Equal moisture content of the elements over the entire area, which prevents the development of the rotting process;
Simplifying the repair process when it is necessary to replace the board.

It is significant that water that gets on the wall does not flow into the gaps of the elements during horizontal installation, which is possible with vertical cladding.

The disadvantage of the horizontal installation method is the deterioration of natural ventilation, which requires equipping the room with a forced ventilation system.

The specific choice in favor of arranging the lining in a steam room vertically or horizontally depends on the preferences of the consumer and has its own characteristics in carrying out the work.

Installation of lining in a bathhouse

Before sheathing the steam room, the cladding is secured. To do this, the beam is attached to the wall with galvanized screws. Then, having determined a straight vertical line with a building level, install the sheathing beam on it. The first slats are installed from the corner, and subsequent slats are installed in increments of 50-60 cm, moving to the next corner. A layer of waterproofing is placed under the slats and, if desired, the slats are treated with a protective non-flammable agent.

The next layer will be a layer of non-flammable insulation (mineral or basalt wool), which has excellent water- and vapor-proof properties. The main thing is to ensure a tight fit of the insulation. If necessary, additional sealing is carried out with polyurethane foam or self-adhesive tape.

A vapor barrier layer of foil or regular film is laid on the mineral wool, which is secured with staples from an industrial stapler.

At the final stage, the lining is laid vertically or horizontally.

It is very important to insert the planks as evenly as possible, since the slightest disturbance will cause depressions or bulges to appear on the lining wall. If pine lining is used, then it is necessary to carry out pre-treatment to remove resin and grease stains. For this purpose, wooden slats are lubricated with a 25% acetone solution.

When installing the sheathing and laying the insulation, mark the place where the ventilation holes will be. The most effective ventilation will be when placing one hole near the stove near the ceiling, and the second at a height of 15-30 cm from the floor.

For the air duct, 100 mm corrugated aluminum is used.

The finishing of the steam room begins from the ceiling, and the first board is attached at the entrance (for more details: “How to decorate a bathhouse with clapboard correctly - the master’s recommendations”). For installation, clamps are used and a finishing nail is used only for the last board. The lining is fastened exclusively using a hidden method.

This choice is dictated by the following circumstances:

Heating, twisted metalware through and through, which can burn the skin;
Possibility of rust appearing on hardware when exposed to wet steam;
Not aesthetically pleasing in appearance when the mount is open.

The wooden paneling is secured using clamps or self-tapping screws.

The kleimer, as the fastening bracket is called, is made of galvanized iron and screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. The advantage of clamps is that there is no damage to the lining sheets during installation.

How can you line the inside of a bathhouse besides lining

The height of the clamps depends on the type of materials and for eurolining it is 4 mm, and for wooden lining height is up to 5 mm.

How to lay the lining in the bathhouse depends on the installation method. When positioned vertically, installation begins from the corner with the end board secured in a special bracket - a clamp.

Work begins from the left corner, placing a board with a length less than 5-10 mm less than required, with the ridge towards the corner.

The boards are then nailed to the sheathing battens in the middle.

The next board covers the already nailed board with a ridge, and is also attached to the sheathing batten. When using finishing nails, they are nailed strictly at an angle. All subsequent boards are attached in the same way. At the same time, the level constantly checks the correct placement of the boards. Before nailing the last board, measure the width and cut it if necessary.

When installing horizontally, you can nail the boards starting from the top or bottom. Laying horizontally begins from the ceiling by attaching the first batten to the sheathing with the groove down.

Then the boards are positioned as close to each other as possible, like a designer, with the tongue of the top board fitting into the groove of the bottom panel.

Installation from bottom to top is simpler, but the need to cut the top board to width gives the wall an untidy appearance.

And when moving from top to bottom, the gap formed after cutting the last board to the desired width can be masked with a beautiful plinth.

After completion of all work, the final decoration of the surface is carried out using special corners and ropes. The slopes of the doorways are finished with clapboard cut to the required size and framed with platbands. For additional protection from moisture, the mounted lining is finished with a special wax or water-based compound.

When building each of these rooms, it is necessary to decide how best to line the bathhouse from the inside, because the air temperature in the room will depend on this, as well as the amount of fuel needed to heat it. In this article we will talk about all the most popular and reliable options for lining the inside of a bathhouse.

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding

Having built a bathhouse from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a cladding material.

First of all, you need to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:

It must withstand high temperatures and be non-flammable;
Steam and moisture resistance are also necessary indicators;
It is advisable to choose natural materials without harmful chemical treatments, so as not to harm your health with harmful fumes.

Speaking specifically about what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse, it is worth mentioning lining, block house and magnolite. Of the three options presented, choosing one can also be difficult, so below we will talk in detail about each of them.

Bath lining

Lining is the most popular material for covering a bathhouse, because it combines all the most necessary qualities: reliability, beauty and reasonable price.

The lining also has a number of useful properties:

Lining allows you to save a large amount of fuel, reducing heat consumption;
Behind it you can hide various communications, increasing the level of comfort indoors;
The lining is resistant to moisture and steam; in addition, it is able to regulate the level of moisture in the steam room and allows the walls of the bath to “breathe”.
Longevity and resistance to the formation of fungus and mold are also important properties that this material has.

It is also worth paying attention to the wood from which the lining is made:

The best option for a steam room is linden, because when heated, it releases essential oils that have a disinfectant and anti-inflammatory effect. Another advantage of this wood is its low thermal conductivity, which helps protect the skin and respiratory tract from burns, while increasing sweating.
Aspen is a worthy alternative to linden. The price of aspen lining is quite low, and the material itself is resistant to moisture and rotting processes. Warming up, aspen promotes health person.
It is recommended to use larch in the shower, because it has high strength and resistance to water. Larch lining has a positive effect on well-being and helps improve immunity.
The steam room can also be finished with white acacia clapboard. Acacia is a very durable tree, so products made from it last a very long time. The only disadvantage of this wood is the high price.

You can see an example of such cladding in the photo.

Block house for a bathhouse

Block houses are classified by quality:

Class "C" material undergoes only surface treatment; various defects may be present on its surface, for example, cracks or chips. This material is not recommended for installation in a bathhouse;
Block house class "B" It is of average quality and is extremely rarely used for finishing baths. There may be small cracks and knots no more than 3 cm on its surface;
On the surface of class "A" material you will not find any flaws, with the exception of small knots. This option is great for a bath.
« Extra" class has perfect processing, and its surface is free of any imperfections. Ideal for finishing baths, but also has a fairly high price.

The block house is made from various types of wood, but only hardwood and coniferous materials are suitable for the bathhouse. Remember that using spruce and pine is highly discouraged, because you can burn your skin on their heated surface.

Magelan

This is modern, however, not the best material for lining a bathhouse on the construction market.

It is completely unaffected by moisture and rotting processes;
High temperature, as well as temperature changes, do not harm this material;
Magnelite sheets are quite easy to install.

This cladding is made from the following materials: fine wood shavings, magnesium and other non-natural components, which are reinforced with glass mesh. By making the lining of a bathhouse from such material, you reduce the environmental component of the room.

Conclusion

Now you are familiar with all the options for interior lining of the sauna and can independently decide how to line the inside of the sauna, based on your own desires and financial situation.

During the construction of a bathhouse, there comes a time when it is necessary to decide on its interior decoration. It is very important to choose a material that will not only be beautiful and functional, but also be able to withstand the specific microclimate of a given room. Based on this, many people wonder how to inexpensively line the inside of a bathhouse and what qualities should the chosen material have? A properly equipped steam room is the key to a comfortable and pleasant stay, which is why the finishing of all its surfaces must be approached as responsibly as possible. In this article we will look in detail at the process of improving this room, starting from the choice of materials and ending with the technology of their installation.

Choosing the right material

To the question of how to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse, there is one correct answer - wood. Why them? Because it is the only 100% natural material that meets all the requirements for use in rooms with high humidity and high temperatures. This finishing gives the space a special aesthetics, creates a pleasant atmosphere, and, most importantly, retains heat perfectly.

For those who are interested in what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse other than wood, mention should be made of glass-magnesium sheets. This is a new material that is made from wood chips and fiberglass with the addition of various binding components.

The boards are available in light colors and can be used in rooms with high humidity. Since this is a relatively new product, it is rarely used for bath cladding, so we will not dwell on it for long.

Wooden materials are actively used: block house, panels and lining. For a bathhouse, these options are considered the most suitable.

What wood should you choose for a bathhouse?

When decorating walls and ceilings, you don’t have to limit yourself to just one type of wood. Combination of different different varieties, differing in shade, will allow you to make a more interesting and extraordinary design. But, before deciding which wood to cover the inside of the bathhouse with, you should take into account the properties and performance characteristics of each wood species.

When cladding the ceiling and walls, it is better to use larch, linden, aspen and cedar. It is highly undesirable to place pine materials in a steam room, since when heated they release a pungent odor into the air, which can interfere with a comfortable rest.

But for finishing dressing rooms and rest rooms, this option is optimal. Pine has a beautiful texture, is easy to process and has a very attractive price.

It is better to sheathe the steam room and washing room with linden and larch.

These wood species are able to retain their original color for a long time and practically do not heat up when exposed to high temperatures.

Decorating a steam room

For finishing the surfaces of the steam room, only high-quality materials should be selected. Most often, lining is used here. For a bathhouse, choose the highest class board from durum varieties wood

The slats are located in a horizontal or vertical position and are secured with nails, gluers or staples in a hidden way. In order to ensure reliable retention of heat and steam inside the room, a layer of thermal insulation material is placed on the walls.

For this purpose the following can be used:

foil;
mineral wool;
polystyrene foam covered with foil;
glassine, etc.

It is very important that there is air space between the lining and the insulation. This can be achieved by installing a sheathing on which the facing material will be installed. The distance between the slats should be no more than 50 cm.

The finished frame and lining are coated with an antiseptic. Processing is carried out before assembly begins. Wall cladding begins from any corner of the room, securing the boards on both sides with any of the above fastening materials.

Flooring: wood or ceramics?

The temperature in a steam room at floor level usually does not exceed 30 degrees, so they can be made of any material. It is more important to properly and quickly drain the water from the bathhouse. The subfloor is covered with plank flooring, on which polished floorboards or ceramic tiles are laid.

Comparing these two coatings, it should be noted that the tiles are more durable. This is due to the fact that when exposed to moisture, wood darkens, rots and after some time fails. Ceramics, in turn, are not afraid of humidity, temperature changes and are not susceptible to rot and mold.

Despite this, very often wooden floors are installed in bathhouses. This material harmonizes perfectly with the surrounding interior and is much more pleasant when touched with bare feet.

When considering how to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse, it is worthwhile to dwell in detail on the installation technology of both options.

Wooden floor finish

The process of finishing a floor with wooden materials is very simple. First of all, the logs are laid on which the boards are mounted. They are placed on brick pillars, which are installed on the base of the floor. For the logs, choose boards measuring 20 x 20 or 25 x 25. They are laid in increments of no more than 1 meter. The floor level in the steam room must be 10-15 centimeters higher than in other rooms of the bathhouse. This is necessary to ensure that warm air does not escape from the steam room for as long as possible. To lay the finished floor, tongue and groove or edged material, at least 30 cm thick.

Before sheathing the inside of the bathhouse with boards, all cladding and joists must first be treated with an antiseptic composition. This will protect them from colonization by microorganisms and extend the life of the wooden floor.

Floor finishing with ceramic tiles

For safe movement, you should choose tiles with a rough surface for floors. This will make them less slippery when in contact with water.

To lay a ceramic coating, you need to make a solid concrete base. The surface must be perfectly clean, smooth and dry. Immediately before laying, the tiles are soaked in water for a couple of minutes. This is necessary so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution and the floor covering is of the highest quality and durability.

Start laying the tiles from the most visible corner of the room using sand-cement mortar or moisture-resistant glue. Upon completion of the work, the seams are hidden with a special moisture-resistant grout. It helps protect the tiles from mold.

For more comfortable movement on the tiles, you can place floorings made of wooden slats on the floor. Such designs are convenient because they can be taken out of the steam room to dry.

Price

In order to properly plan your own budget, you need to understand how much it costs to line the inside of a bathhouse. The total amount depends on who will carry out the finishing work and how much quality material selected for finishing.

If you plan to hire specialists to arrange a bathhouse, you need to be prepared to pay for their services. Thus, work on installing sheathing is estimated at 130 rubles per m2. Cladding the walls and ceiling with clapboard will cost the owner of the premises from 350-500 rubles per m2.

In the event that the walls inside the bathhouse are sheathed with your own hands, only the costs of purchasing the lining and related materials are taken into account.

A top quality board made from linden costs about 500-600 rubles per m2.

Lining made from larch will cost 250-350 rubles per m2, while material made from coniferous wood has a price tag of 150-200 rubles per m2.

To these costs should be added the cost of fasteners, bars and thermal insulation.

Conclusion

In this article, we found out how and with what to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse. In order to save money, you can do the interior arrangement of the room yourself, without resorting to the expensive help of specialists. After finishing the floors, walls and ceilings, you need to take care of lighting and furniture installation. A variety of shelves and hooks on which you can put personal items and hang towels will not be superfluous. After completing all the work, you can begin bathing procedures and enjoy your vacation with family and friends.

How to line a bathhouse from the inside - how to choose material

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding

Don’t rush to think about how best to line the inside of the bathhouse, because lining may not be needed at all. The task of the internal lining of the bathhouse is to retain internal heat for a long period of time, which will significantly reduce fuel consumption and combustion time. Thus, we can conclude that the cladding is an integral part of the bathhouse, but this is not entirely true, because a bathhouse built from solid timber using old technologies does not need additional insulation (more details: “Pair clapboard cladding - how to do it right”).

Having built a bathhouse from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a cladding material.

First of all, you need to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:

It must withstand high temperatures and be non-flammable;
Steam and moisture resistance are also necessary indicators;
It is advisable to choose natural materials without harmful chemical treatments, so as not to harm your health with harmful fumes.

Bath lining

Lining is the most popular material for covering a bathhouse, because it combines all the most necessary qualities: reliability, beauty and reasonable price.

The lining also has a number of useful properties:

Lining allows you to save a large amount of fuel, reducing heat consumption;
Behind it you can hide various communications, increasing the level of comfort indoors;
The lining is resistant to moisture and steam; in addition, it is able to regulate the level of moisture in the steam room and allows the walls of the bath to “breathe”.
Longevity and resistance to the formation of fungus and mold are also important properties that this material has.

Next we should talk about the correct choice of material. First of all, pay attention to the fact that the price for lining up to 1.5 m is slightly lower than for material from 2 m, so it’s worth choosing a short length. When installing a short lining, use a batten in the middle to avoid various difficulties (more details: “Which lining is best for a bathhouse - a review of materials for a bathhouse, dressing room and shower”).

It is also worth paying attention to the wood from which the lining is made:

The best option for a steam room is linden, because when heated, it releases essential oils that have a disinfectant and anti-inflammatory effect. Another advantage of this wood is its low thermal conductivity, which helps protect the skin and respiratory tract from burns, while increasing sweating.
Aspen is a worthy alternative to linden. The price of aspen lining is quite low, and the material itself is resistant to moisture and rotting processes. Warming up, aspen promotes health person.
It is recommended to use larch in the shower, because it has high strength and resistance to water. Larch lining has a positive effect on well-being and helps improve immunity.
The steam room can also be finished with white acacia clapboard. Acacia is a very durable tree, so products made from it last a very long time. The only disadvantage of this wood is the high price.

You can see an example of such cladding in the photo.

Block house for a bathhouse

Block houses are classified by quality:

Class "C" material undergoes only surface treatment; various defects may be present on its surface, for example, cracks or chips. This material is not recommended for installation in a bathhouse;
Block house class "B" It is of average quality and is extremely rarely used for finishing baths. There may be small cracks and knots no more than 3 cm on its surface;
On the surface of class "A" material you will not find any flaws, with the exception of small knots. This option is great for a bath.
« Extra" class has perfect processing, and its surface is free of any imperfections. Ideal for finishing baths, but also has a fairly high price.

Magelan

This is modern, however, not the best material for lining a bathhouse on the construction market.

It is completely unaffected by moisture and rotting processes;
High temperature, as well as temperature changes, do not harm this material;
Magnelite sheets are quite easy to install.

This cladding is made from the following materials: fine wood shavings, magnesium and other non-natural components, which are reinforced with glass mesh. By making the lining of a bathhouse from such material, you reduce the environmental component of the room.

Conclusion

Now you are familiar with all the options for interior lining of the sauna and can independently decide how to line the inside of the sauna, based on your own desires and financial situation.

Lining the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard

What kind of materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And it’s much more pleasant and familiar to the eye wooden panels. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.

Lining is...

Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technological progress, production has also stepped forward. different types linings. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.

Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.

Choosing lining for cladding

Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there is ventilation ducts, which prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to GOST 8242-88, the moisture content of wooden products is allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, and pine.

WoodColorPropertiesPhoto


Aspen	White, acquires a silvery tint. The yellow growth rings are barely visible.	Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to even hammer a nail into an aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up.
Linden	Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte shine.	The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up little, and in the steam room it releases aromatic components that are beneficial to health. When in contact with linden wood in a humid environment, the iron oxidizes and rusts, and streaks appear.
Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar	Brown with a pink tint.	One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack.
Beige, brown with red shades. It gets darker with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin canals.	Good mechanical properties, viscosity, warping is moderate. Does not cause difficulties during processing. It releases resin when heated, so it is not used for covering those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. It is not suitable for covering the ceiling of a steam room or it requires repeated heating of the steam room followed by removal of the resin that has emerged (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bathhouse, it is better to choose Extra-class pine lining.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

Class or varietyDescription


Extra	Free from cracks, knots and other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
A or 1	The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter no more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ panel long, non-through cracks - less than 9.5 cm long (the crack exit is directed towards the end of the panel) that appear when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There may be tars and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 m.p.
B or 2	There are many knots, of which no more than 2 can fall out. by 1 m.p. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long; hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pieces per 1 m.p.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
C or 3	The quality is low. Many different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstery technical premises or rough work.

The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.

All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.

ProfileDescriptionScheme


Standard	Similar to the classic quarter-plank lining. It has a tongue-and-groove connection, with the tenon being shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in its rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensation.
Manufactured according to DIN 68126 standard. Has an extended tenon. After installing the lining, the wall surface is ribbed.
Soft-line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Shtil lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, relief texture of the wall after assembling the panels.
Used for finishing external walls and premises. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a tongue-and-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the back side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of the internal lining

For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of the steam room lining.

Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
Area of the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
Total area of the room: 6 (ceiling)+7.5 (first long wall)+7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m2.

We calculate the area of the hallway paneling.

Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
Area of two long walls: 3x2.5 = 7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
Area of two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of window and door openings, and then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed to cover the inner surface of the bathhouse.

The most popular profile size is as follows:

panel thickness 12.5 mm;
panel width 96 mm;
panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how many square meters of material are in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.

Advice! You should not purchase lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a product Low quality, which will quickly lose its properties and the lining of the bathhouse will have to be completely or partially replaced.

Choosing the method of installing the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But more rational option for a bath it is horizontal.

Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:

When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if an accidental blow, fallen coal or high humidity If the vertical board is damaged, the entire wall will have to be dismantled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing The walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit strong chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's consider step by step process ceiling trim.

Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling

The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. The optimal distance between adjacent slats is from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.

The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the slats using a stretched fishing line/cord or laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.

In some cases, when it is necessary to make a lower ceiling in a bathhouse, metal hangers are used to attach the lathing.

In this case, first use long self-tapping screws on the ceiling (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials) the hangers are fixed, after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with coarse threads are used, length 3.5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.

It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.

Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling

There is no need to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust stains on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the lath of the sheathing, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls

We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.

The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal plots 40-50 cm each, with the resulting step, attach the horizontal bars of the sheathing using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled for them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. To arrange the lining strips horizontally, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and vertical slats on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls

If lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, you must leave a gap of 2 cm.

To beautifully decorate the corner, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions are described above).

If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.

We drill holes for the self-tapping screws, place the board on the sheathing (always with the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, check that it is horizontal. We screw the screws into the drilled holes. We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.

We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.

Video - Steam room lathing

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.

Video - Finishing the steam room

Files for download: DIN 68126 (standard for the manufacture of eurolining) and GOST 8242-88 (standard for the manufacture of wooden lining, skirting boards, etc.).

How to cover a steam room in a bathhouse - how to choose the right wood

The most important room in a bathhouse is the steam room. Except yours main function it must satisfy aesthetic needs, because it is much more pleasant to spend time where it is beautiful. Let's consider how to decorate the inside of the steam room so that it pleases with its appearance.

Choice of finishing material

Traditionally, wood is used to cover the steam room, which gives the room a beautiful appearance, creates a healthy atmosphere and retains heat. However, there are many various types wood and of course the question arises, what kind of wood is better to cover the steam room with?

Various types of wood are used to produce bath finishing materials. However, it is not recommended to use coniferous wood to cover the steam room, since it can release resin when heated strongly (read: “Finishing a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands - from floor to ceiling”). It is best to use such types of wood for finishing a bath as linden, larch, oak, and aspen. If you really want to enjoy the pine aroma during bath procedures, then you can finish it with cedar material. It is durable and not resinous.

Requirements for the material for covering the steam room

When choosing what to cover a steam room in a bathhouse with, you should pay attention to such points as:

The wood must be moisture-resistant and dry quickly, which will allow it to avoid rotting.
The resin content should approach zero. Nai the best option so that the resins are completely absent.
The surface must be flat, smooth, free from roughness, gaps and knots.
Wood should have low thermal conductivity, since wood that is highly heated in a steam room can burn the skin.

When choosing which is the best tree to buy for a steam room, you should pay attention to linden. Lining made from such wood is considered the most optimal material. Linden wood has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and releases beneficial essential oils.

Aspen also good material for a steam room, as it is durable, strong and has medicinal properties. And another advantage is its low cost.

When deciding what kind of wood to cover the inside of the bathhouse with, you can opt for larch. It has a positive effect on the human body, has high density, strength, low thermal conductivity, and does not absorb moisture. In general, such wood has all the necessary qualities and is perfect for finishing a bathhouse.

Interior arrangement of the steam room

As a rule, benches, shelves, and headrests are installed in the steam room. They are fairly easy to make, so you can do it yourself. It is recommended to make bath furniture from the same type of wood that was used to cover the walls of the steam room.

Nowadays African oak, or abashi in other words, has become widespread.

It has such advantages as:

low thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
high density;
durability;
strength;
does not deform;
pleasant to the touch.

The disadvantage of abashi is its rather high price.

When covering a steam room, the lining can be mounted vertically or horizontally (for more details: “How to mount lining in a bathhouse - rules and installation sequence”). If a horizontal arrangement is chosen, then the lining should be nailed from the bottom up. This technique will prevent water from seeping into the joints.

First you need to install vertical racks, between which will fit insulation material. To do this, markings are made, which should start from the corner. Distance between internal parties the racks should be 59 cm. This step will allow you to correctly install the insulation of the required thickness.

There are some peculiarities when cladding the walls of a log bathhouse. Fastening the sheathing boards in a vertical position is quite difficult, and not everyone decides to do this work themselves. For getting desired result and to avoid mistakes, it is necessary to process the side of the vertically located posts facing the logs. Read also: “How and with what to treat lining in a steam room - practical tips.”

To do this, you need to make a special copier. It is a thin ruler, which is pointed on one side and has holes along its entire length that match the diameter of a pencil. Take the stand and press it against the wall, then use a copier to draw and draw lines repeating the shape of the log house.

Next, the racks are processed in accordance with the drawn lines. It is enough to make sure that the stand, with a pitch of 60 cm, is tightly adjacent to the logs in several places. The vertical level must be strictly observed. The length of the contact surface should be about 2-3 cm, this will be enough. The steam room board must be treated with an antiseptic.

The next step is to attach the protective membrane. This must be done from the bottom up, and each subsequent film should overlap the already fixed one by 20-30 cm. The upper edge is attached to the logs with a stapler; for overlapping areas, one of the options is selected: glue it with tape, upholster it, or use self-adhesive tape. Read also: “How to make a steam room in a bathhouse correctly and beautifully.”

A protective film is placed under the racks installed in accordance with the markings. To do this, use a level or plumb line. Galvanized screws or nails are suitable for fixing the material to the logs. You can do without screws long length: a blind hole is drilled in the rack, which should be several millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw head.

It is necessary to pull a rope from above and below the wall; it must be tied to the outer posts. This will help you align and install the interior posts.

It is necessary to stretch and level the protective film in such a way that air does not get between the open logs. Otherwise, such a mistake will lead to the fact that both the frame and lining of the steam room will begin to rot and deform, as a result, bath procedures will no longer benefit the body.

During installation corner posts Insulation material must be laid immediately.

Nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Before starting finishing work, it is necessary to prepare the material that will be used to finish the steam room. Before attaching it to the walls, the lining must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it will be used.

The floor in the steam room must be higher than the floor level in other rooms. The shelves are installed above the heater by about 10 cm. Benches and shelves should not have sharp corners. Only natural materials should be used inside the steam room.

It is very important to choose what kind of wood to cover the steam room with, since not all types of wood are suitable for this. You should also take into account all the finishing features of the most important room of the bathhouse, which determines whether the procedures taken will be useful.

Bathhouse lining inside: selection of material and installation

Today there are many finishing materials. However, not all of them are suitable for lining the inside of a bathhouse.

In this article we will look at how to line the inside of a bathhouse and how to do it yourself?

What material should you choose for the interior decoration of a bathhouse?

The main thing to remember when choosing material for cladding:

the material must be environmentally friendly;
resistant to moisture and high temperatures;
have low thermal conductivity.

One of the most suitable materials can be considered wood. Studying the pros and cons of different types of wood, we decided that the ideal option for lining the inside of a bathhouse is linden lining. It has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and also releases essential oils that have a beneficial effect on human health. The price for it is not much different from the price of lining made from other types of wood.

Installation of linden lining

Step 1. Preparation

First you need to prepare the tools and materials necessary for the installation process:

Jigsaw;
Screwdriver;
Stapler;
Level;
Hammer;
Self-tapping screws (depending on the size of the bars);
Nails (1.2×20 mm);
Staples;
Bars (you need to choose bars whose thickness is slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation);
Insulation (the most suitable option is balsat wool);
Aluminium foil;
Aluminum tape;
Well, and the lining itself.

Step 2. Lathing

The sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the position of the lining.
We start from the ceiling of the bathhouse: we level the bars using a level, if necessary, we make substrates from wood or plywood, secure them with self-tapping screws, and install the bars at a distance of 50 - 70 cm.
We lath the walls in the same way.
In the areas of doorways and windows around the perimeter we attach additional bars.
Next, we treat the sheathing with an antiseptic to prevent rotting and increase service life.
The openings between the bars, with a slight seal, are filled with insulation boards.

Step 3. Insulation and vapor barrier

Attention!
When insulating a bathhouse, use goggles and a respirator or other means to protect your eyes and face.
When insulation particles get into mucous membranes, they cause irritation.

We fasten strips of aluminum foil for a bath horizontally using a stapler, from bottom to top, overlapping the previous strip with each next by 5-10 centimeters. We glue the joints with aluminum tape to prevent moisture from getting under the vapor barrier.

Step 4. Covering the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse with clapboard

We begin installation of the first lining from the corner and continue along the perimeter.
Using a jigsaw, cut the lining to the required length.
We apply the lining and secure it along its entire height using self-tapping screws.

Tip: in order to avoid chips in the lining, drill small holes in the places where you will screw in the screws.

We insert the clamp into the groove of the lining and nail it to the sheathing using nails, as shown in the video in this article.
We insert the next one into the groove of the installed lining, so that the lining goes all the way, we put a piece of the lining and hammer it along the entire length with a hammer. We also secure it to the sheathing using clamps.
In the same way we continue the installation of the following linings.
We install the lining on the ceiling in the same way as we did on the walls.
After installing all the clapboards, we close the corners with wooden plinths. To do this, cut the plinth to the required length and attach it to the lining using small nails.

Step 5: Surface treatment

Despite all the advantages of wood, it also has disadvantages - over time, wood, when exposed to moisture, undergoes rotting, which significantly deteriorates its appearance and reduces its service life. In order for the lining in the bathhouse to delight you with its beauty and durability for a long time, there are many materials to protect the wood from moisture, insects and other adverse environmental factors.

We will look at several types of wood processing products:

Dye

The most accessible means of treatment is paint, but it is ineffective, and its use inside a bathhouse is undesirable, since many types of paints are destroyed and release harmful substances when exposed to high temperatures.

Wood impregnation solutions

Such solutions generally do not provide comprehensive protection; their action is aimed at some specific protection, for example, there are products that have antiseptic properties, and there are also products for protecting wood from fire.

Special varnish coatings

In our opinion, the most suitable means is special varnish coatings, since these compositions provide comprehensive protection against insects, cracking and moisture. In addition, with the help of such a composition you can give the lining different shades without disturbing the natural pattern of the wood, thereby helping to achieve the desired result in the design of the bathhouse.

Conclusion

So, after you have installed all the cladding elements and decided on the type of protective coating, all that remains is to process everything with it wooden surfaces inside the bathhouse. One of the possible results can be seen in the photo. In this article we looked at how to line the inside of a bathhouse with linden clapboard.

How to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside: stages and cladding technology

It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of the bathhouse. High temperatures and constant humidity force the use of only stress-resistant types of cladding for finishing. One of the classic ones is lining. You can find out how to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader with the difficult task of interior finishing, but we will also tell you how to choose the material.

Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, coated with heat-resistant oil

Which lining is best for a bathhouse?

Linden lining should lie unpacked before finishing

Lining for the interior decoration of a bathhouse is selected depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made from, type of wood.

You can divide the material by size :

Classical. It is not wide in size; it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal position visually lowers the already low ceiling in the bathhouse. In addition, the horizontal fastening prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same quality characteristics as thin lining. On the back side of the eurolining there is a special cut that relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.

Based on their composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For a bathhouse, the best option is made of wood, the rest are for finishing the facade.

Types of wood for making bath trim

The steam room finished with aspen paneling looks attractive

It is important what type of wood the product is made from. For the bathhouse, wood finishing with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abashi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can take not any cedar, but only the northern one. It contains less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not begin to cry. Larch species have a lower wood density and with tactile contact in the bathhouse, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining costs more, but the costs will be justified. Each of the types under consideration is better suited for different bathhouse areas.

Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of its durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. When in contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use it to decorate a rest room or washing area. The only negative is the high price, due to which it is not recommended for use in the steam room and dressing room.

Original version steam rooms trimmed with linden clapboard

Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the inside of a bathhouse. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But linden has a serious drawback - if it is not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds, it quickly begins to darken and rot.

Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great

Cedar: This is a coniferous tree, but its structure is of low density, so it is often used for baths. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and emits a pleasant odor when heated. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since it still contains some percentage of resin.

Alder lining in the interior of the bathhouse looks original and modern

Alder: has a pleasant pinkish tint with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. In baths can be used in any part.

When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take chamber drying Extra or AB grade. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the bath occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. And in premium grades This is unacceptable.

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Aspen paneling is sewn onto the ceiling

Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be coated. To do this, you can look at photos of finished works and settle on the design you like.

You need to sheathe the inside of the bathhouse starting from the ceiling. Only after this the walls. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

Scheme of a simple version of clapboard paneling for a steam room in a bathhouse

It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bathhouse, especially if it is a small summer log house measuring 3x3 m. In these, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bathhouse is from the inside, including the dressing room and rest room.

As insulation, you need to choose a fire-resistant material, such as bosalt wool. It’s better not to even consider all materials like polystyrene foam. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared sheathing on which the vapor barrier is attached. Due to the large temperature difference, condensation may accumulate on the walls; a vapor barrier will protect the insulation.

Glassine should be secured on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the sheathing using a construction stapler or buttons with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Material processing

The walls of the bathhouse begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance

Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in a bath for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And once in the natural environment, wood absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.

After this, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take a composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

The installation of the lining begins with the ceiling trim. The first strip should be mounted opposite the door. There are two ways to attach links to the bathhouse:

Use small nails to the main sheathing in a groove at an angle of 45°. Such fastening will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. You shouldn’t hammer the lining tightly together; when it’s wet, it will swell and the entire structure will warp, or it will simply pull away from the wall in separate sections. By leaving a gap, the lining gains space for natural movement.
Use small nails through the lining to the sheathing. This method is more suitable for eurolining. First, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are covered with wood plugs and PVA glue.

Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the entire nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - a puncher

You need to start attaching the links to the wall from the most visible corner to the door. They install it using exactly the same methods as on the ceiling.

There should be a ventilated gap of 4-5 cm between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm should also be left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for air to pass well under the lining, tonic strips are attached to the main sheathing. The finishing material will be attached to this second sheathing. The pitch of the sheathing is 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.

After fixing the bath, warm it up thoroughly and see what happens after it cools down. Incorrectly fastened links are additionally reinforced with nails.

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

Do not mount the lining horizontally in the washing room and steam room. Splashes of water will enter the lock, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires horizontal fastening, then the tenon should point upward.
All fasteners must be zinc coated, since iron will quickly rust if exposed to moisture.
All fastening corners and strips at the top need to be slightly sharpened at the bottom, so the water droplets will go down faster.
The planks are attached 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will evaporate faster and the lining will last longer.
If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna

We looked at how to do the interior decoration of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands. By following all the techniques and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to do the job with his own hands.

How to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands?

Wood is an ideal finishing material for a bath

The Russian bathhouse is primarily known for the presence of abundant steam indoors. This effect occurs due to the bare logs being cut without any special treatment. Heat retention in Ancient Rus' was achieved by creating especially dense and massive walls, which could absorb moisture from the air and retain it for a long time. In addition, such walls were needed to transfer heat inside the bathhouse. Many people heard the loud hissing of the walls, which is why various stories arose in Rus'. In fact, the hissing came from the wood, which absorbed moisture vapor and set in motion the condensation effect. Most people tried to build a bathhouse from the thickest logs, as this ensured high-quality heating.

In those days, it took a long time to heat a bathhouse, about 4 hours. It should be remembered that wood is hygroscopic material, because of which it quickly becomes unusable. Back then it was the cheapest and most widespread resource. But today everything has changed radically. A modern bathhouse requires a special approach to wall decoration. The main goal now is to significantly reduce heat energy costs and speed up the heating time. At the moment, bathhouse finishing is most often carried out using a special material - lining. You should know how to line a bathhouse with clapboards with high quality, so as not to have problems in the future.

Heating a steam room with clapboard becomes much easier, firewood is consumed in small quantities. The only drawback is that the sauna does not retain heat so well, so you have to use fuel much more often. Steam is created thanks to modern furnaces and steam generators. At the same time, you need to constantly monitor its supply and control the presence of heat inside the room.

How to choose the type of lining

High-quality lining prevents the formation of various bacteria, mold and mildew, while controlling the level of humidity inside the bath itself. The main requirements for the material are high moisture resistance and environmental safety.

Initially, bathhouse lining was made in quarter and tongue-and-groove. Because of this, over time, the slats shifted and the compressed joints were destroyed. At the moment, almost all lining is made in the groove and in the tongue.

Advice from the master!

It is important to know: to save money, try to search and purchase 1.5 m long lining at building materials warehouses. It costs much less than 2 m material. Processing lining with such a length in a bathhouse is quite simple. It is only necessary to sheathe the joint with a lath. At the same time, you will save a lot on building materials.

Panel fastening schemes

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard can be done in 2 ways: vertical and horizontal. Most experienced bathhouse attendants agree that clapboarding a bathhouse using the vertical method is not best idea. The reason for this is the different temperature of the wood below and above, which will directly affect the service life of the material. Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard horizontally will contribute to a more uniform distribution of temperature. In addition, horizontal cladding allows you to visually increase the height of the wall in a small steam room.

Advantages of horizontal sauna lining.

If the floors darken, you can easily change the lining in the right place.
Thanks to the presence of a vertical frame, the bathhouse will be protected from the inside from rats, mice and other rodents.
Installing horizontal cladding is several times easier than installing vertical cladding.
Liquid does not seep between the joints of the boards, the lining dries much better, which helps extend its service life.
Ventilation outside the lining is carried out better due to the presence of a vertical frame. In addition, the space under the lining also becomes ventilated.

Please note: if the lining is fastened horizontally, the groove must be directed downwards.

Advantages of vertical sauna cladding.

The bathhouse becomes more like a sauna due to higher temperatures and dry air.
Due to the absence of splashes, liquid will not seep between the joints of the boards, and accordingly, the wood will not darken.
For good ventilation, it is enough to drill small holes under the lining.

Installation of finishing material

By weighing the benefits of each scheme, you can choose the most suitable option. Remember that the horizontal cladding method will allow you to achieve the effect of a real Russian bathhouse.

Advice from the master!

Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard in a vertical pattern will, in turn, ensure the presence of high temperatures. You will have a real sauna.

How to cover a bathhouse with clapboard: detailed instructions

The sheathing procedure consists of 4 stages, each of which does not take very much time. Finishing a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands is a simple process. Follow the instructions on how to properly line the interior of a steam room with clapboard, and you will succeed.

Stage 1: preparation for work

Before installing the lining inside the bathhouse, you need to carry out preparatory work. If there are differences in the walls, you need to smooth them out with putty. Ceiling and wall coverings are treated with antifungal mixtures. Then the electrical wiring and piping are placed. After purchasing the lining, you need to take it into the bathhouse and leave it there for a couple of days so that it gets used to the atmosphere of the room.

Stage 2: frame installation

Wood blocks are used as a frame. Their size is selected based on the density of the insulation.

Frame for installing lining

Then you need to attach the bars randomly on the wall and mark points on it for mounting metal hangers. The bars are placed in a row and the distance between them should be about 44-48 cm.

Important to know: it is advisable that metal parts were made of galvanized iron. If other materials are used, after a while traces of rust appear on the wood. Wooden blocks also need to be treated with an antifungal mixture so that the lining is protected from harmful bacteria on all sides.

Holes for dowels are drilled and metal hangers are secured. Wooden blocks are attached to them. Can be used various options fasteners, depending on the method of fastening the lining. Keep in mind that between the bars there should be good ventilation. Near door and window openings, the bars must be mounted vertically with a distance of 25 mm from the edges.

It is important to know: the first row of the frame should begin with longer bars, and shorter ones are attached to the next row. The entire frame must be in the same plane. When installing, keep an eye on each row. In case of a large difference, material is placed under the block to act as a gasket.

Stage 3: laying thermal insulation

Before the final lining of the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to lay thermal insulation underneath it. It must be placed between wooden blocks. Many people are accustomed to using mineral wool as a heat insulator. It is worth knowing that this type of insulation cannot cope with high levels of humidity. It is recommended to pay attention to foam glass. This heat insulator has good moisture repellency and does a good job of retaining heat. At the same time, foam glass is completely harmless to humans. In addition, there is no need to lay on top of it vapor barrier material. But if in doubt, you can use this type of insulator. It is glued with an overlap using tape.

Stage 4: attaching the lining

When starting to cover the inside of the bathhouse, you need to cut the lining. After this, you should cut off the tenon at the first segment and place it in the right place.

The final stage is applying an antiseptic

Sheathing should begin from the corner side. It is recommended to use clamps for strengthening. First, they must be driven into the groove of the segment, and then installed in the frame. Each subsequent segment is superimposed on part of the previous one and is also driven in.

At the end of the finishing work, it is necessary to apply a protective layer to the lining sections. To do this, use oil mixtures or wax. Caring for the lining of the lining requires special care. It is necessary to exclude treatment with solvents and abrasive materials.

Advice from the master!

If the segment is severely damaged, it must be replaced. Do not forget to periodically renew the protective layer on the surface of the lining. Estimate ready-made sauna, lined with clapboard, can be obtained by studying the presented photos.

Have you tried and built a beautiful steam room hut? Now we need to finish the bathhouse from the inside, which does not require less attention than outdoor work. High humidity and elevated temperatures place special demands on materials, because not all of them are able to withstand difficult operating conditions. The choice of cladding determines how long the structure will last and how comfortable the procedures will be. Different rooms in the bathhouse require their own approach to finishing, but the most difficult is finishing the steam room in the bathhouse.

Design of a steam room in a bathhouse Source et.aviarydecor.com

What material is suitable for a steam room?

For interior work There are a lot of finishing materials. To make it easier for you to choose what kind of finishing the steam room in the bathhouse will have, photos and paintings ready-made solutions Every designer has one. It is worth remembering that even if you made your own choice, it is better to coordinate it with a specialist, because not all materials are suitable for installation inside the hottest room.

Taking into account the specific operating conditions, the following requirements are imposed on the finishing:

moisture resistance;

heat resistance;

durability;

hygiene;

environmental friendliness.

Important! For the interior decoration of the bathhouse, you should choose natural materials.

When the temperature rises, plastic becomes deformed and begins to emit an unpleasant odor, and ordinary tiles crack after heating. Therefore, the use of such finishing is unacceptable in the steam room.

The best option is wood. The finishing structure depends on financial capabilities. For example, lining is cheaper than timber; it is chosen if it is necessary to meet a certain budget. Basically, bathhouse owners prefer deciduous wood. Below is an example of what the interior decoration of a bathhouse might look like, a photo of the classic version.

High-quality wood for interior decoration of a bathhouse Source stroy-block.com.ua

There is an opinion that you should not sheathe the inside with steamed coniferous wood, since it releases resin when the temperature rises. But this statement is controversial, because resin has a beneficial effect on health, cleanses the respiratory tract, and strengthens the heart.

Whether or not to sheathe the interior with coniferous wood is up to you - maybe someone in your household doesn’t like the smell of pine needles or vice versa...

If lining was chosen for cladding the bathhouse, then it should be High Quality. Particular attention must be paid to the external processing of the material - there should be no chips, knots, or cracks on its surface. The lining should not deform: swell when heated or dry out at normal temperatures.

If wood is not suitable for you as a material for interior decoration of a steam room for some reason, you can give preference to heat-resistant tiles; they have proven themselves well under significant temperature changes.

Video description

How to insulate the ceiling and decorate the walls in a bathhouse is shown in the video:

Ceiling protection

Before finishing, you should protect the ceiling from hot steam. To do this, use aluminum foil or a construction membrane.

Important! Do not use foil with glued mineral wool or foamed polypropylene. When heated, these materials release toxic substances.

Protecting the ceiling in the bathhouse with aluminum foil Source ko.aviarydecor.com

Using lining - rational or not

Definitely yes! Lining made from linden, aspen, cedar, and abashi has become popular due to its properties. It tolerates temperature changes well, high humidity, is aesthetically pleasing, and does not absorb moisture. Cladding made of clapboard has low thermal conductivity - it does not heat up, but transfers heat to the air.

Bath lining is not covered with varnish, antiseptic, or paint; it is used in its natural form.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer the service of building a bathhouse. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Preparing the walls for finishing

When starting to finish the walls, they solve the issue of insulation and waterproofing. Without such measures, the bathhouse will not last long, and healing procedures will be reduced to simple hygienic ones. For insulation, the walls are covered with mineral or basalt wool. The second one is more resistant to high temperatures, so it lasts longer.

Insulation of walls in a steam room with mineral wool Source hvylya.net

Experts consider cork to be the best thermal insulator for bathhouse walls. This agglomerate does not burn, does not rot, and is resistant to fungi and mold.

Lathing - to do or not to do

Craftsmen prefer to install the sheathing and attach the interior trim to it. The popular base size is 50x50, less often they make 70x70. The pitch is not standard and varies depending on the size of the blocks being strengthened.

The sheathing is made of wood, less often of metal. Considering the operating conditions, the metal must be treated with moisture-resistant compounds. The lining or logs are secured with self-tapping screws and nails. They must be copper or brass. The installation of the base is done perpendicular to the sheathing.

Lathing walls in the steam room under the lining Source: seattlehelpers.org

Stages of clapboard finishing

Along the perimeter of the wall and ceiling fix the beam. Fastenings should be every 80–100 cm.

Cut pieces of insulation wool placed between the tree without compacting.

Above covered with a waterproofing agent. The joints are sealed with aluminum tape, paying special attention to the corners.

Equip ventilation. To do this, fill the distance rail. It will provide a small gap (2–3 cm) through which air will be vented.

Do separate upholstery doors and windows.

Fastening the lining. You need to start from the corner, fixing each part vertically. This position will ensure free flow of water. If a horizontal arrangement of blocks is planned, make sure that the spikes are at the top. This will protect the lock from moisture.

Lining located in corners or near walls, cut to the right size . It is especially important to cut the corner block correctly. It is necessary to accurately calculate the angle of inclination so that the adjacent block is correctly fixed.

Insulating the furnace using metal sheet Source interistroy.ru

metal– stainless steel or profiled iron is mounted on the wall behind the stove;

Red brick– placed between the wall and the fire;

tiles, resistant to high temperatures (kaolin);

mineralite– heat-resistant board made of cement and special components.

Video description

Watch the video for step-by-step installation of the lining in the steam room:

Making the floor in the steam room

Not only comfort, but also safety depends on the choice of raw materials for the floor. Moisture on smooth tiles or linoleum leads to falls and injuries. Installation of such materials will turn the floor into a skating rink. In addition, when heated, linoleum emits an unpleasant odor containing substances harmful to health.

The optimal choice of floor for a steam room is wood. It does not require a special coating, and with this design the room will be designed in the same style. It is worth noting that the wooden floor in the bathhouse is not made of oak. This wood becomes stronger when wet, but at the same time its surface begins to slip.

Concrete works well. A floor made of such material will be strong and durable. Tiles are laid on top of it, but the structure of the surface of such a coating is important. It should not be glossy; a pronounced relief is necessary. The floor is laid at a slight slope towards the water drainage.

Laying tiles on the floor in a bathhouse Source: seattlehelpers.org

The tiles are laid from the corner, placing crosses between the blocks, tapping with a mounting hammer. After 2-3 days, the seams between the tiles are rubbed down. Put on top wooden gratings, allowing you to avoid stepping on a cold floor and providing additional safety in case of possible slipping.

And now the shelves

A very important point is the shelves in the bathhouse. Since constant tactile contact is assumed with them, increased requirements are put forward for these elements:

they should not get very hot;

it's better if cool down slowly;

must be environmentally friendly;

don't slip and not be very rough;

don't have external damage;

easy to wash.

Again, wood is most suitable for this purpose. Carefully cleaned, without knots or nicks, it has served people in bathhouses and steam rooms for centuries. Shelves should not have sharp corners that could cause injury. They are not made solid, leaving a small distance between the wooden boards.

Setting up a dressing room

The main function of the dressing room is to preserve heat. The temperature in the room is not high, so it is good to use coniferous trees to decorate walls in a traditional style.

Design of the waiting room and rest room “under the tree” Source koon.ru

Interior decoration A log bath creates an atmosphere of antiquity, ancient fairy tales. A light aroma created by pine, fir, and spruce is appropriate here. The wood of these species resists fungus and mold well. It does not crack after drying and is durable. When heated, fir releases almost no resin.

If hardwood is preferred, experts advise finishing the room with birch. The lining can be laid out not only in even rows, but also in a pattern. It is important that the walls in the room are covered with the same type of wood.

Bathroom and washroom

These rooms do not have very high temperatures, although the humidity is as high as in a steam room. The choice of finishes in the bathroom and washroom is more extensive. Fans of bath procedures recommend using natural raw materials for such rooms - wood or stone. Among wood, pine is the leader - it is available material However, with prolonged use it darkens.

An example of a washroom design Source profstroiplotnik.ru

Plastic is acceptable since there is no high temperature, and it tolerates humid air well. You can use regular tiles for the shower.

What is better to use to decorate a rest room?

The rest room should be beautiful and cozy, so the design of the room comes first. It is not necessary to install heat- and moisture-resistant materials here. The relaxation room should be:

easy to care for;

hygienic;

environmentally friendlym;

comfortable;

aesthetic.

Video description

For interesting ideas for interior decoration of a bathhouse, watch the video:

The decoration of the relaxation room in the bathhouse, in addition to traditional wood, can be done:

glass wallpaper;

porcelain stoneware;

natural stone;

decorative plaster.

Important! The tree is not installed immediately after delivery to the construction site. It is brought into the room and allowed to stand for a couple of days so that it “gets comfortable” in the bathhouse. After this procedure, the wood is not subject to deformation when heated and high humidity.

Conclusion

Decorating the inside of a bathhouse requires effort and imagination. But, if you do everything correctly and entrust this work to professionals, the bathhouse will last a long time to restore strength and health. All you have to do is choose what kind of decoration the bathhouse will have inside: photos of steam rooms will help you find the best option for style and materials.

16229 2 12

Bathroom finishing: choosing best materials for steam room, washing and changing rooms

Steam room

Many years ago, having just moved to the village and built our first bathhouse, we were also very arrogant. And they lined the steam room with pine boards. Aroma! Beauty! There was no limit to the joy until hot drops of resin began to drip onto my head, and ugly streaks appeared on the walls.

I had to improve my theory, and not just be proud of my ability to work with my hands. The head in this matter is also not superfluous.

Materials for walls and ceilings

It will not be news to anyone that none synthetic materials categorically not used for lining steam rooms. Many of them tolerate heat and moisture well, but when heated they emit harmful substances or become very hot themselves.

But not all natural finishing materials are suitable for this purpose. The most suitable one is wood in the form of a polished edged board, lining, blockhouse or imitation timber. However, there are limitations here too!

Are all breeds able to withstand temperature changes, resist fungus, and not rot due to constant contact with moist air? Not everyone. And many of those that are capable have certain disadvantages: they are expensive, get very hot, or “cry” with resin.

Brief characteristics of different types of wood, which are most often used to decorate baths and saunas, will help you make your choice:

Linden. Changes very little under the influence of steam and temperature, maintaining a beautiful creamy shade. Fills the steam room with a delicate pleasant aroma. But it gets very hot, so the linden shelf needs to be doused before planting. cold water or lay down a sheet. It is unlikely that it will be possible to insulate walls simply with linden lining without thermal insulation material due to its high thermal conductivity. Cost of 1 sq.m. 600-800 rubles.

Black alder. According to operational characteristics of the ideal material: almost does not change the appearance and properties, on the contrary, the aroma and color of wood become more saturated over time. Besides doesn't heat up, allowing you not to be afraid of burns. But it does not emit particularly useful phytoncides and is more expensive than linden - 750-1200 rubles.

Aspen. Finishing the inside of a bathhouse with aspen is not the best solution in terms of aesthetics, since when exposed to moisture it turns gray. But in terms of thermal conductivity, it is similar to alder - it does not heat up and can itself become a good additional heat insulator for walls and ceilings. In addition, it allows you to save money, since it costs 400-500 rubles per sq.m.

Larch. If you need quality, beauty and, as they say, to last for centuries, then larch is great choice. Including the price (up to 1000 rubles per square), if you compare it with the cost of valuable wood species with similar properties. She has the highest resistance to moisture, which only increases over time. But finishing a steam room in a bathhouse with larch is a difficult task, since this dense wood is difficult to process.

Ash. This wood already belongs to valuable varieties and a square meter of such lining costs between 1500-2000 rubles. As for the use of a steam room for finishing, it is perfectly suitable for this purpose: it has a beautiful texture, does not darken, is not afraid of high humidity and temperature, and also has healing properties , especially useful for people with respiratory diseases.

Oak. Of our local wood species, this is the densest and most beautiful. In all respects it is suitable for tiling a steam room, it looks solid and reliable, but it also costs a decent amount: 2300-2800 rubles. This finish is already considered elite.

Abashi. For those who do not expect to spend a lot of money, you can skip this and the next points, since decorating even a small room with African abashi oak will be very expensive. 3000-3300 rubles per sq.m. This exotic wood surpasses all others in moisture resistance and has an unusual richness. But all this is unlikely to justify its price, since it does not provide any benefit to the body and, moreover, gets very hot.

Canadian cedar. The most expensive material listed, used only in elite baths. Exudes a pleasant aroma and healthy essential oils. Very beautiful, easy to process. Depending on the thickness of the lining, it can cost from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles per square meter.

The range of prices in these examples is explained not only by the different thickness of the boards, but also by their length. Short ones are cheaper. In general, all of these are grade A or Extra products, so you can find them cheaper.

Now about very popular and inexpensive breeds, but completely unsuitable for use in hot and humid rooms.

Pine and spruce. The most inexpensive lining, costing 200-240 rubles per square meter, is made from just these conifers. And it is perfect for covering walls in a recreation room and making furniture for it. The exterior decoration of a pine blockhouse is also quite beautiful and durable if the walls are built from bricks or blocks.
But you can’t put pine in the steam room. I have already described the reasons above - this is the “tearfulness” of the tree under the influence of high temperatures. Moreover, due to humidity it becomes loose. And since protective impregnations cannot be used here, it will not last long.

Birch. Completely unsuitable for wet rooms - steam rooms and especially showers in bathhouses. Very afraid of moisture: it quickly loses its appearance, begins to rot and mold. But in dry and well-ventilated rooms, it is not inferior to larch or oak in terms of strength and wear resistance. It can be considered as a finishing material for a rest room. Especially if it is spacious and you are looking for something not very expensive. 400-440 rubles per square meter is quite tolerable.

To be honest, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not so important what you line the walls and ceiling with: very few people will understand at one glance at expensive wood how much it cost you. It is much more important how to decorate the bathhouse. Well-polished, well-fitted boards that are pleasant to touch are half the success.

Judge for yourself whether the traditional finishing for our region and the exotic finishing are very different:

If your imagination and patience are enough for decorative finishing in the form of backs, headrests and beautiful grilles - even better. All this can be done from expensive varieties.

All these tricks with wall cladding are not needed if they are made of thick logs of suitable species. It is enough to caulk the seams well and sand the frame. But finishing a block or brick bathhouse is not only about decorating unsightly surfaces, but also about the possibility of insulating them and reducing heat loss. But that is another topic.

It is also necessary to think through such an issue as fireproof finishing of a bathhouse made of timber or logs.

I will not repeat in the following sections about the suitability of this or that type of wood for finishing other premises. Their characteristics speak for themselves; making a choice will not be difficult.

Floor

The floor in the steam room should not be slippery and not get too hot. The most inexpensive solution- This is a cement screed with wooden ladders laid on top. A little more expensive - tiles or porcelain stoneware with the same drains.

Ladders are gratings made of thick boards or bars that can always be taken out and dried or lifted and washed on all sides. Therefore, there are no special requirements for the type of wood; you can even use pine - on the floor it will not get so hot as to release resin.

Solid wood flooring is another matter. Here you will have to choose species that are resistant to moisture - larch, oak, alder.

There is another option - heat-treated board. It undergoes special treatment with hot (180-200 degrees) steam in the absence of oxygen, thereby acquiring very high resistance to moisture, strength and dark shade.

The price depends on the type of wood. For example, a square meter of 40 mm thick pine flooring will cost about 1,250 rubles, and 2,700 for alder.

Washing room

The washing machine may be different. If water is supplied to the bathhouse from a centralized network or a well with a pump, and there is a water heater, it is enough to install a shower stall or simply equip a shower corner.

This is impossible without running water, so benches and watering cans are needed. Often both are found, complemented by a large plunge pool or even a swimming pool. And also washing rooms combined with a steam room.

In each case, the interior decoration of a wooden bath will be different:

For common area All the materials described in the previous chapter are used. This is a wood that can withstand intense heat on walls and ceilings and tiled or concrete floors with drains.
In a wash room, separated from the steam room and without a shower, for wall decoration You can use any wood except birch. Including coniferous ones. Here the temperature is not so high, so the resin is unlikely to flow. But the air will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

Finishing a shower in a wooden bath can also be done with clapboard, but in this case need good supply and exhaust ventilation so that the boards dry after finishing the procedures. They must be treated with a moisture-repellent agent and the coating must be renewed periodically.

It will be much more durable to cover the walls with tiles or stone at least one and a half meters from the floor. If load-bearing walls wooden ones, they are waterproofed, covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard, and tiles are glued onto it.

Very convenient option– shower room with a door or curtain. It can be arranged in a dead end or fenced off a corner with a partition. And there will be no questions about how to decorate the walls in the washing room: with tiles. And the rest of the space, where there will be no heat, no high humidity, whatever.

It’s even easier to install a ready-made shower stall, and then you don’t have to worry too much about wall cladding; plastic panels will do. In this case, finishing materials are selected in the same way as for a bathroom in an apartment.

The ceiling here can be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint that is resistant to washing. But if you regularly use the bathhouse, you will need to update the coating at least once every two years.

Types of finishing such as wood and plastic lining, rack or pinion suspended ceiling. They are not afraid of moisture, spotlights can be built into them, and the space between the ceiling and the cladding can be filled with thermal insulation.

If the bathhouse is wooden, built from ordinary logs or timber, finishing can begin no earlier than in a year. Because it will settle as the wood shrinks, deforming the cladding.

If you don’t want to wait, you can bother with a floating frame for drywall and tiles. How to do this correctly is described in the article “Facing a wooden house with plasterboard.” And unlined walls must be treated with antifungal antiseptic impregnation on a natural basis.

Locker room

The materials for decorating this room can be very different. But it’s hard to come up with anything better than a tree. However, it can be supplemented with other types of finishing: decorative plaster, artificial stone tiles, various wall tiles, etc.

It all depends on the size and purpose:

If this small dressing room in a free-standing bathhouse, intended only for undressing and dressing, it is better to limit yourself to moisture resistance wood trim. Especially if the bathhouse is heated once a week, and the rest of the time it is not heated.

If this is a spacious recreation room with a heating system from the house, then your desires are unlimited. Even wallpaper and painting on the walls - as long as you like it.

Examples for inspiration:

As for how to decorate the outside of the bathhouse, any façade materials can be used here. Most often, a beautiful log house is left without cladding, limited to caulking the joints, sanding and treating with decorative and protective agents.

And buildings made of brick, foam blocks and other building stones are finished in accordance with the house or imitate a log house using a wooden, plastic or metal blockhouse.

Conclusion

Now you know what materials to use so that the interior decoration of a timber bathhouse will please you for many years in a row, without requiring repairs or alterations. To do this, it is not necessary to use expensive exotic materials that have little health benefits. In this regard, our native linden wins a hundred points over the African oak, and it looks no worse.

If you have anything to say or ask on the topic, you are welcome to comment. Let's discuss.

November 29, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Sections

How to line a bathhouse from the inside - how to choose the material. Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to decorate it, what options are there, examples with photos. What is the best way to line the inside of a bathhouse?

Bath lining

Block house for a bathhouse

Magelan

How to line a bathhouse inside: beautiful and inexpensive

Characteristics of a log house

Features of modern baths

How to choose the right lining for cladding

Basics of lining installation

Washing room: selection of finishing material

The nuances of finishing a fresh log house with the effect of settlement

The best way to line your bathhouse inside

Advantages of using lining in a bathhouse

Types of wood for finishing

Installation options for lining

Installation of lining in a bathhouse

How can you line the inside of a bathhouse besides lining

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding

Bath lining

Block house for a bathhouse

Magelan

Choosing the right material

What wood should you choose for a bathhouse?

Decorating a steam room

Flooring: wood or ceramics?

Wooden floor finish

Floor finishing with ceramic tiles

Price

Conclusion

How to line a bathhouse from the inside - how to choose material

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding

Bath lining

Block house for a bathhouse

Magelan

Lining the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard

Lining is...

Choosing lining for cladding

Marking and technical requirements

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of ​​the internal lining

Choosing the method of installing the lining

Installation of lining

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Video - Steam room lathing

Video - Finishing the steam room

How to cover a steam room in a bathhouse - how to choose the right wood

Choice of finishing material

Requirements for the material for covering the steam room

Interior arrangement of the steam room

Nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Bathhouse lining inside: selection of material and installation

What material should you choose for the interior decoration of a bathhouse?

Installation of linden lining

Step 1. Preparation

Step 2. Lathing

Step 3. Insulation and vapor barrier

Step 4. Covering the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse with clapboard

Step 5: Surface treatment

Dye

Wood impregnation solutions

Special varnish coatings

Conclusion

How to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside: stages and cladding technology

Which lining is best for a bathhouse?

Types of wood for making bath trim

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

Material processing

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

How to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands?

How to choose the type of lining

Panel fastening schemes

How to cover a bathhouse with clapboard: detailed instructions

Stage 1: preparation for work

Stage 2: frame installation

Stage 3: laying thermal insulation

Calculate the area of the internal lining