What is the best way to caulk a wooden house made of rounded logs? How to caulk a log house with jute, video instructions, tips and prices for jute. You can caulk a log house from a log.

The main stage of insulation of an erected log house made of timber or logs is caulking. This process is an effective sealing of gaps with special insulation materials - tow, moss, jute or linen.

The main purpose of caulking

The first caulking is carried out after installing the crowns and completing the roofing work.

The second stage is performed after partial, which takes from 6 to 10 months.

The final stage of caulking is carried out after complete shrinkage of the wood for the 5th year of operation.

Caulking of a house or bathhouse made of rounded logs must be carried out inside and outside the building.

Materials for sealing the log house

Caulking of a log house is done using practical materials– moss, tow, jute, linen and wood sealant. Each of them has unique properties.

Tow

Tow for caulking is the cheapest and available material, used for insulation and sealing of a log house. Unlike other materials, tow has many disadvantages that reduce its performance characteristics.

She absorbs quickly excess moisture, therefore susceptible to rotting. It is quite difficult to place tow in the inter-crown cracks, and to replace damaged areas with new material.

Tow is prone to damage by household moths and other unwanted organisms.

Moss

You can insulate a log bathhouse using. It is reliable and expensive material, which is quite in demand among novice craftsmen and professional caulkers.

Moss is absolutely environmentally friendly, safe and practical. In addition, it has unique antibacterial properties while providing good thermal insulation.

Jute

No less in demand is jute insulation, which has such advantages as: durability, strength, resistance to rotting and destruction, and high thermal insulation characteristics.

Lnovatin

Due to its high thermal insulation and strength properties, flax wool takes its rightful place among log insulation materials. It is made from flax fibers connected together with fastening tapes.

Special sealants

Modern synthetic-based sealants are often used to caulk a log house. Sealants can be used in conjunction with natural sealants - jute or linen. The material is carefully applied to the joints, creating an even and neat seam.

Caulking tools

For competent organization During the working process, it is recommended to prepare the necessary insulation materials, as well as tools for caulking the log house.

• Type-setting caulk. Outwardly, it resembles a chisel, which is used to insulate large gaps (up to 10 cm wide) and small cracks (up to 2 cm wide).
• Road worker for working with caulking.
• Mallet for hammering in insulation.
• Hammer.
• Insulation.

Effective ways to caulk a log house

The process of sealing the seams between the crowns of a log house is carried out in two ways. To obtain a high result, it is recommended to combine both options.

Stretch

This method provides for maximum stretching of the insulating material along the entire length of the seam. First, one strand of insulation is laid into the existing gap. Next, the second strand is twisted, laid on the first and clogged with a type-setting caulk.

This method is effective for initial caulking before shrinkage of the log house. The insulation fibers must be in a perpendicular position with respect to the logs. The ends of the insulation are rolled into a small flat roll and hammered into the resulting seam.

Included in the set

This method is suitable for compacting a log house after its partial or complete shrinkage.

It involves scoring large quantity insulation, and the process itself is carried out in the following way: an initial strand 16 mm thick is prepared, then the strands are formed into loops, after which each loop is driven into the gap in a transverse position relative to the gap.

Hammering the strands is done with a caulk or mallet from the top and bottom sides. After the strands are completely driven in, final compaction is performed using a road builder.

Proper insulation of a log house made from cylinders involves effective driving of material along the tier - from bottom to top. First, the joint between the initial and subsequent crowns is processed. Work is carried out along the perimeter of the building from corner to corner. After insulating one tier, you can proceed to the next.

During the compaction process, special attention should be paid to the corner elements of the crowns - grooves and locks.

Step-by-step process for caulking a log house with your own hands

Now let’s figure out how to caulk a log house after it has completely settled in order to provide the structure with maximum protection.

All work is performed sequentially using roll insulation in the following order:

1. Cleaning the seams between logs from accumulated debris and preliminary insulation that has become unusable. You can use a regular vacuum cleaner to clean surfaces.
2. Caulking is done only in rows from one tier to another. This will prevent possible distortion finished design building.
3. Insulation is carried out from the outside of the building, then from inside walls
4. The insulation is unwound to the length of the wall with an addition of 20 cm for reserve. During the caulking process, small folds may form, so there should be enough material for one tier.
5. One end of the tape is driven into the slot and secured with a mallet.
6. Next, the material is compacted using a collapsible caulk and a hammer. To do this, the insulation is carefully inserted into the gap and hammered in. The operation is performed several times along the entire length of the seam. When driving in insulation, it is important to ensure that the seam is sealed and that there are no distortions.
7. Work on driving in insulation is carried out according to a similar scheme on the inside of the wall.
8. Warming starts from lower crown, moving towards the top element. At the top, the material is carefully folded and hammered in such a way as not to interfere with the slight shrinkage of the structure.

If synthetic sealant is used as insulation, the whole process is much simpler and faster. To work you need to purchase a rope the right size made from synthetic fibers.

The rope is carefully laid in the intervention seam along its entire length in such a way as to tightly close the existing cracks. Next, a thin layer of sealant is applied. The width of the layer should not exceed 6 mm and height 11 mm.

After completion of the work, the sealant is treated with a special compound and carefully leveled with a spatula. Until completely dry, the synthetic composition should be protected from direct sunlight to prevent cracking.

The sealant is used for exterior work; inside, you can use natural fiber rope to decorate the joints.

The process of caulking a log house using natural and synthetic materials does not cause difficulties, does not require large financial investments and practical experience. All you need for the job are working materials and tools, as well as some free time and patience.

Modern construction is receiving increasingly high-quality materials and technologies. Allowing them to be applied not only to stone and monolithic structures, but also to be used in the usual form of log houses. This gives options for more time for their operation, as well as high-quality rotting and destruction of wood. A separate point can be noted such a process as caulking, which allows you to ensure the tightness of the entire structure being created and additional process protection against the penetration of harmful insects and fungi.

In the process of caulking houses made of logs, it is important to choose not only the material and tools, but also to understand the technology of each stage. At the same time, it is practical to combine practical nuances and rules with modern solutions for each of the structures being built.

The complex of work on caulking a log house must be carried out in two stages, combining individual criteria and sequence. This should be work that will allow rough caulking to be carried out during the construction of walls and partitions. And the process of final caulking of the cracks between the logs after the construction of the entire building.

When implementing the first method, the lower crown of logs is laid, after which the insulating layer is laid out, with a uniform overhang and filling of the space for connecting the subsequent crown of logs. After which a new crown is laid. This is done from the very bottom of the structure being erected to the last crown of the walls. After that, the hanging ends of the insulation are driven into the cracks between the logs.

Rough caulking option

In case of using the second method, the process starts after all installation work and the arrangement of the last crown. This method allows you to carry out parallel work on installing the roof and installing the roofing carpet, performing the process of caulking inside and outside the house. It is important to note here that each of the crowns must be filled with insulation on both sides simultaneously, excluding curvature and destruction of the integrity of the structures.

The “log caulk” produced is carried out by driving insulation between each of the crowns, starting from the bottom of the structure, gradually moving to the upper elements. This method is best performed using tape material, placing it at the junction of two crowns and pushing it tightly inside the structure. In this case, there is a need to leave the edges hanging down by 5-7 centimeters, for subsequent twisting into rollers and filling the resulting space between the logs.

After the first stage of caulking, there is a need to carry out additional filling of the cracks. This is carried out 2-3 years after the construction of the house. The work should also be done from the bottom up, filling all the seams along the perimeter of the building from the inside and outside of the walls.

Tool used when caulking a log house

The right tool for filling the seams between the crowns of logs will simplify this process. Combining practicality and the ability to use modern materials and technologies. To do this, you need to choose a high-quality and practical tool, the list of which should include:

• a flat blade made of wood or metal, 5-6 mm thick and a blade width of up to 100 mm; used for sealing seams and cracks between crowns;
• a flat chisel, with a working blade width of 5-6 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm, made on a metal basis; used to compact the insulation layer and the laid material;
• wooden caulking, with a triangular blade and a longitudinal groove, width 1709 mm and thickness from 5 to 7 mm; allows you to form rollers to finally fill the gaps between logs;
• metal wedges, with a blade width from 20 to 35 mm; necessary for widening cracks during compaction and laying of material;
• wooden hammer, mallet; used for driving sealant into the seams between crowns.

Caulking tools

The materials used for caulking, the advantages and disadvantages of each of them

Forming correct process sealing seams between the crowns of logs, it is important not only to understand “how to caulk a log house”, and to apply better quality material. This should be a formula that will combine durability and practicality in each individual case and on the selected area of ​​the house structure.

A special roll material based on flax and jute is used as inter-crown insulation. It is jute that allows the logs to fit more tightly and create the required conditions for thermal insulation of the entire wall structure. This material for caulking fits into the groove below the lying crown and using construction stapler secured around the entire perimeter. Also, due to this type of material, reliable sound insulation is ensured inside the entire building, in partitions and external walls.

Materials for caulking

Using jute also has its disadvantages. It is susceptible to rotting and its service life is significantly limited, unlike the use of flax and moss.

A more common and long-used material for caulking a log house is the usual moss. There are two types of moss, red and white, it is used depending on its growth in the region where it is found. In this case, the resulting caulking of a log house with your own hands is considered more environmentally friendly and combines only natural materials and raw materials, without the use of machine processing of the material and preparing it for use for sealing seams.

But a significant disadvantage of using moss is the difficulty of finding building materials on the market in different regions. Which benefits the choice of the usual flax.

Step-by-step technology and process of work on caulking a log house

Today, there are several technologies that allow high-quality sealing and caulking of seams and cracks between the crowns of logs. Each of them uses separate materials and tools.

Stretched caulk

The combination of practicality and consistency of this technology allows you to use both jute and regular moss. This technology allows you to distribute the material evenly along the entire length and perimeter of the building being constructed at the stage of installation of each of the crowns of logs. At the same time, this option of work is considered more productive, since it does not require the additional use of tools, but only a high-quality layout of the material for caulking. Of course, each of the craftsmen has his own method and the amount of material placed in the existing groove between the logs, but there is also a limitation - the material should hang 5-7 cm on both sides of the log. This is the case when using moss. And in case of use tape material, it should fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the logs and have an overlap of 5 cm with the previous roll being spread.

It is also worth noting that this sealing is carried out in two stages, this is at the time of installation of the walls and with the subsequent driving in of the remaining material after the construction of the walls.

Caulking set

When implementing this technology, it will be important to understand that if there are wider seams and gaps between the crowns, then you cannot do without the use of jute strands. This method will allow you to practically and efficiently fill the existing space, evenly and gradually placing the material into the existing grooves.

Along each of the crowns, gaps can be additionally embroidered, parallel to both sides of the walls, followed by filling with jute. After which the seams can remain open or where they can be additionally sealed decorative plaster on wood.

Sealing knots and joints in corners

When carrying out the embedding process corner elements or joining walls, it is important to fill each section in parallel, using the same sealant as when sealing straight sections of walls. But here it is important to frame the corners correctly and beautifully, without leaving uneven edges or excess material, since the load in these areas is much greater than on straight lines along the perimeter of the walls. It is necessary to hammer the applicable material as tightly as possible to prevent it from scattering and additional compaction under the mass of wood.

Cost and price range for the work performed on caulking a log house

The cost for the work performed can vary from 60 to 150 rubles. Prices for caulk are calculated per 1 linear meter. At the same time, each of the craftsmen takes into account not only the practicality of the material used, but also the technology being implemented, depending on the resulting seam between the logs or the customer’s desire for the materials used.

The height of the structure is also taken into account, which will require additional time to install the scaffolding and scaffolding. The price increases starting from a building height of 1.2 - 1.5 meters. It is calculated taking into account the number of crowns up to a given height from the foundation of the building. At the same time, it is worth taking into account the number of nodes and indirect sections of walls that are present in each individual project. This also increases the cost of work. But each region of Russia has its own gradation, taking into account the demand for this type of construction and the availability of appropriate material for caulking.

Caulking the walls of a log house is a labor-intensive process that, if its technology is followed, will ensure the preservation of heat in the house in cold weather. Detailed analysis of the work sequence, the right choice The tools and materials presented in this article will help you insulate the seams with your own hands.

Tools

The main tools for caulking seams are spatulas (caulkers) and a mallet. The blades are made of wood or steel. The wood of the caulk should be softer than the material of the logs, otherwise marks will remain on the walls. With time working surface wooden caulking becomes shaggy, then it is replaced with a new one.

Metal caulks are used for corner cuts, where it is especially important to fill inner space bowls. Using a mallet, gently tapping the caulk, compact the insulation bead and push it inside the seam.

Material selection

It is used for insulation and sealing of seams in log walls. natural material(moss, jute, tow, etc.) and modern artificial polyurethane foam, polyethylene foam, mineral wool and other inter-crown insulation.

Sphagnum moss

Moss was preferred in the past to insulate the joints of logs. Sphagnum and cuckoo flax (red flax) were laid in the seams of the log house. Sphagnum moss was fluffed up and laid across the logs in several layers (5-10 cm) hanging down to 5 cm from the seam. Cuckoo flax was placed along the crown and also in several layers (5-10 cm) with overlapping joints.

Before laying, the moss is wetted, and it dries in the wall structure. Absorbing moisture, moss quickly releases it and does not rot. By his natural qualities he is very good antiseptic, therefore also protects wood from biocorrosion. Its disadvantages include the difficulty of uniformly creating a uniform thickness of the seam.

Jute rope

Jute fiber is made from the jute plant, which belongs to the linden family. Insulation for caulking made of jute is stronger, more durable and moderately hygroscopic. Even with high humidity premises, for example, in baths, jute absorbs no more than 20% of moisture.

Tow

Tow is tangled flax fiber. It is made from waste obtained by scuffing and crushing flax. It should not contain foreign impurities; a small amount of brome (the woody part of the stem) is allowed. Tow for caulking can only be used when it is dry, soft and without a putrefactive odor. The inter-crown seam of tow should be 0.8-1.2 cm.

Hemp

Previously, hemp was also used for caulking log houses. It was obtained by soaking hemp stems for a long time in running water(up to 2-3 years). It is distinguished by its fiber strength, resistance to decay and exposure to sunlight. Today, hemp products are also represented in the range of building materials.

Modern materials

The use of artificial materials for caulking seams is becoming increasingly widespread. These include mineral wool fiber, polyethylene foam, and inter-crown sealants. Their advantages are: bio- and moisture resistance, elasticity and vapor permeability, which is important for wood. Self-expanding sealing cords seal the seam almost perfectly.

Seam caulking technology

The entire process of caulking log walls can be divided into two stages. During the assembly of the log house, the first stage is carried out. The insulation is spread over the top of the mounted log. For the convenience of caulking, felt tape is used, the raw materials for which can be flax, jute, or hemp.

After installing the logs, the hanging ends of the seal are simply wrapped into their joints. Caulking of the seams of a log house is done in two ways: “stretched” and “set”. During construction log house The most commonly used method of compaction is “stretching”. To do this, the free edges of the insulation are rolled up with a roller, which is pressed into the seam. The width of the roller should be 1-2 cm.

In the case of loose fibrous insulation (moss, tow), when folding the roller, it is important to select adjacent hanging ends, constantly twisting them with the previous ones to obtain an even and durable seam.

“To set” the seam is usually sealed during the second caulking, which is done after the building has settled (after 1-2 years). Walls made of logs give rise to sediment due to compression of the insulation in the seams and shrinkage of the wood.

When the ends of the insulation are not enough to create a bead or the seams are too wide during the initial caulking, the “set” method is used. To do this, prepare a bundle in advance from the selected sealant; you can use a ready-made rope or rope of the required thickness. Loops are made into wide seams from the rope, which are driven into the space between the logs until the required compaction is achieved.

Work on caulking a log house always starts from the lower crown and is carried out along the entire perimeter of the seam. First, the outer side of the log joint is compacted, and then the inner side. You can move on to the next crown only when the entire previous one has been caulked.

The rope or roller is secured in the seam using caulk, which is tapped first top part insulation, then the bottom and only then the middle. If necessary, use a mallet, hitting the end of the caulking handle with it.

When sealing the seams of a log house, it is necessary to constantly check the horizontalness of the logs and the verticality of the walls. A seemingly simple compaction process may well distort the situation individual parts house structures, move them from their original location or raise them.

Secondary caulk

Modern technologies for protecting the connection of logs in a log house provide for sealing the seam (warm seam). The advantages of this solution for joints in wooden houses are:

• plastic;
• durability;
• resistance to sunlight and influence external environment;
• high thermal insulation properties;
• vapor permeability;
• biostability.

The seams are sealed like re-caulking. The “warm seam” technology mainly consists of the following steps:

1. Preparing the surface of the insulated seam. To do this, clean the logs at the work site from dust, dirt, and grease stains. The sealant may not adhere to walls coated with varnish, wax, or any oils. It is better to test the adhesion of the sealant to the treated surface of the log before starting work.
2. Installation of a sealing cord, for example, made of extruded polyethylene. It cannot be glued to the wall, it is simply inserted into the seam.
3. Applying sealant. Before starting to cover the cord and part of the logs with sealant wooden surface moisturize. You can stick masking tape on both sides of the seam to ensure the same width of the coating. Depending on the packaging, the sealant is applied either with a spatula or mounting gun. The layer thickness is allowed to be at least 4 mm, but not more than 10 mm.
4. Seam formation. The seam is smoothed and formed using a suitable spatula within 15 minutes after applying the sealant. You can then remove the masking tapes. Excess substance is cleaned with a damp cloth or sponge.

Patience and thoroughness in performing caulking work will be fully justified by the durability of the structure and warm walls at home, so that you don’t have to seal the cracks later. Choice effective way Insulation of log seams and a sufficient amount of material for this will significantly reduce heating costs in cold weather.

Many are already looking at wooden houses in the form of a log house. After all, they look beautiful and are quite warm inside. After all, during the construction of a building, insulation is laid between the crowns of logs, this gives additional confidence in the quality of the log house.

But several years pass and after the house has completely settled, all sorts of cracks and crevices appear. This not only makes the house cold but also spoils appearance. In addition, unclosed cracks are the places where mold and rot will first appear, which will subsequently lead to damage to the building.

To prevent this from happening, after the building shrinks, the log house is caulked. There are several methods for this procedure depending on the selected material, in this article we will look at them.

Material for log caulking

Caulking of a log house can be done various materials. If insulating jute was used when assembling the building and its ends protrude properly, then this will be enough to carry out the necessary manipulations as described below and additional material you won't need it.

If no insulation was used when assembling the log house or its ends do not protrude from the cracks, you will have several options regarding the choice of material.

Most old way This is caulking with moss. Although it is time-tested, today there are many modern materials who have more best qualities for this purpose.

Tow is also very often used for these purposes. To ensure the quality of work is as good as possible, you need to choose jute tow. It will lay down evenly, and it will be easier to work with.

Caulking with rope is often used, and it is recommended to use jute or linen rope.

IN Lately the so-called warm seam. This is the result of new technologies that are rapidly advancing especially in the construction industry.

Technology of caulking a log house with jute

To perform caulking we will need:

• Small hammer – 300 – 400 gr.
• Chisel 20 mm.
• Caulk trowel or wide chisel
• Rubber mallet

The caulking of the log house must be done after the building has settled and shrinked. First, during assembly, jute insulation must be laid between the crowns. The caulking process involves turning the jute from top to bottom with a spatula and then compacting it in the groove between the logs. In this case, light blows of the hammer are made on the shoulder blade. You will end up with a folded strip of jute in the form of a rope, which is very practical.

The work is carried out in two stages - primary caulking and main caulking. It is necessary to take into account that caulking of a log house is carried out only after the house has settled; for this it must stand for at least half a year.

Primary caulking is done without strong compaction, especially in those places where the logs have not yet settled into place. In such places, the jute is tucked without compaction, but care should be taken to leave room for further shrinkage of the logs. Caulking a log house, its technology is not very complicated, so we will look at it in detail below.

Caulking must be done sequentially - from bottom to top. First of all, the lower groove around the perimeter of the building will be caulked, then the second groove, etc. It is important to do everything along the perimeter, otherwise caulking a separate wall may cause the building to warp. We also need to take into account that the higher we rise, the less we need to seal the grooves with jute. And the very top two or three grooves are tucked only with the help of a spatula, without hammer blows, this is done in order to avoid the slightest compaction of the jute.

The fact is that the log house will shrink for at least another five years, so the upper crowns will eventually crush the jute tightly themselves.

In a log house, the ends are the weakest point, due to the cut out bowls, so you need to caulk it carefully, without unnecessary effort.

The second caulking, the main one, is carried out together with the finishing, where the caulking of the log house is carried out more tightly. It is advisable to carry out this operation no less than a year and a half after the construction of the building. During this time, the log house will shrink almost completely and, without fear, you will be able to install windows and doors, carry out electrical work and install plumbing.

Periodically, you need to inspect the log house for cracks, especially after a hot summer. After all, even a small gap can lead to wood rotting.

Video instructions for caulking a log house with jute:

This method is not the best today, because there are already many other modern materials that allow you to perform this procedure more quickly and with better quality. But if you decide to use moss for caulking, first of all you need to choose it correctly.

So, moss called “cuckoo flax” or it is also called “red flax” is suitable for caulking a log house. It has long fibers, brownish Brown, with shades of red. “White moss” is also used, or its correct name is “sphagnum moss”. This moss is very soft, similar to cotton wool. Has excellent antiseptic and bactericidal properties. It will never harbor wood pests; moss also kills all fungal spores. Both of these plants are often also called construction types moss.

During the construction of a log house, it is laid between the crowns of logs as insulation. In the future, using moss, you can caulk it. This is done twice, the first time immediately after assembly, the second time after some time has passed when the house has settled. This can take from one and a half to two years, or even more.

The moss must first be dried before caulking. And before the process itself, it needs to be moistened with water, otherwise it will crumble upon physical contact.

Caulking timber with moss also requires special tools, you will need:

• Kiyanok
• Caulker

A caulk is a small blade made from the same wood as the frame. This is done so that upon physical contact with the logs they have the same hardness, which will avoid leaving marks on the log house.

A mallet is a small wooden hammer that is used to strike caulk. This allows you to push the moss into the cracks with greater force and fill the free space more tightly.
As in other technologies, caulking begins from the very bottom, going through the entire perimeter. This approach will avoid possible distortion of the building. First, they pass the crown from the inside, and then from the outside.

If “cuckoo flax” moss is used, it is formed into a strip up to 10 cm thick, laid parallel to the log and the gap is tightly caulked using the above tools. White moss when used, they fluff up a little, laying is done perpendicular to the log, so that the fibers hang down by about 5 - 10 cm. Then they make caulking using the same tools.

Caulk of a log house with a rope

The technology for using rope for caulking is not much different from the above methods. The only thing that needs to be added is that this material needs to be treated more carefully, because it is used not only for insulating the house but also for decorative design, so even light damage is unacceptable.

Caulking a log house with rope, stages:

• The places where the rope will be laid must be cleaned and even washed if possible.
• Treat the log house with antiseptic properties, it is desirable that they have fire retardant properties.
• We make rope piercing of the log house using tools. This work is done carefully, making sure that the cord does not twist. Also make sure that the driving depth is the same everywhere.
• As with other materials, work is carried out from the bottom up along the entire perimeter.
• The undoubted advantage of using jute rope is its decorative component.

Warm seam technology

Before using this method, the seams where this technology will be used must be cleaned. Especially if the cracks are painted with varnish or other materials.

Next, vilotherm must be placed in the cracks and cracks - this is a cord-shaped material made of polyethylene foam. Please note that the cord should be about a third thicker than the slot. This material not only insulates the log house, but will also reduce the consumption of the sealant used.

The sealant is applied with a gun and immediately leveled with a spatula. The recommended sealant thickness is from 4 to 6 mm. Moreover, the adhesion area with wood must be at least 4 mm. from each side. The sealant hardens in no more than a day, so during this time it must be protected from precipitation. For this purpose you can use plastic film. Complete hardening of the substance will occur in approximately 48 hours at a temperature of 23 degrees. Once cured, the sealant turns into a rubber-like substance, so your log house will be as protected as possible.

Now, after complete drying, you can smooth the seam, remove any excess and paint with acrylic-based paints.

Caulking a log house in this way can only be done after the log house has shrunk. This work can be done outside in about a year, but inside the house only after a season with the heating on.

This technology has a number of advantages:

Only done once.

Protects against water ingress, which prevents mold.

Makes your home significantly warmer.

Resistant to temperature changes, not afraid of moisture.

Easy to use, which allows you to significantly speed up the caulking of timber.

A beautiful appearance that allows you to veil even the shortcomings of the building itself.

Correctly selected sealant and insulation will improve the structural properties of a wooden house and will help preserve the wood. One of the most important stages during the construction of a log house is the insulation of seams, gaps and openings, in other words - caulk.

We seal and insulate the log house

Specifics of the tree building material is that under the influence of moisture it changes shape, size and volume, i.e. the logs in the log house are constantly in motion, and cracks form in the walls through which heat “leaks” out of the house. Used for sealing seams different kinds seal.

Previously, seams and openings were caulked with dry moss, tow (linen and hemp), bast fiber, felt, etc. Over time, new natural materials appeared: jute fiber, flax, linen wool, mineral wool.

The quality of the caulk comes first

Must satisfy a number of requirements, namely:

• provide reliable protection houses from blowing (have sufficient density and elasticity so as not to contribute to the formation of cracks during the operation of the house);
  retain heat (have low thermal conductivity);
• be able to absorb and release moisture depending on changes in humidity both outside and inside the room, similar to the tree itself;
• inhibit the development of microorganisms;
• be durable (maintain their physical and chemical properties and not be destroyed under the influence of natural factors);
• do not contain substances harmful to human health.

For home from ordinary timber and rounded logs, it is recommended to use 10 mm thick insulation.

The ideal material for caulking is natural

Seals from natural materials Ideally suited as inter-crown insulation. They are usually produced in the form of bales or strips. Kippahs are a traditional form, but tape seal is more convenient: it is distributed across the “work front” faster and more evenly. The width of the tapes is selected depending on the type of timber or log from which the house is being built. The main materials from which the seal is created are jute, flax, hemp (hemp fiber) and moss.

Tape seal for log caulking

Tape seal (flax-jute)

swamp moss

Sphagnum moss- a natural material that is not subject to rotting, hygroscopic and has good bactericidal properties. “Collecting” houses “for moss” has been common in Russia since ancient times.

Insulation wooden log house is carried out simultaneously with the erection of the walls: a sealant is laid in layers on each crown.

The so-called red moss was popular. In the absence of it, cuckoo flax (forest moss) was used.

Jute fiber

Jute- from the linden family. Its golden color is closest to the color of wood. Jute fiber is the undisputed favorite among inter-crown sealants. During the shrinkage of the walls, the jute is evenly compacted. It is slightly susceptible to rotting, absorbs and releases moisture depending on conditions environment like wood does. Jute is not affected by moths and is not pulled apart by birds. Mixed products are also used as an interventional sealant: jute and flax-jute felt.

The use of a tape seal not only insulates a log house, protects it from blowing, but also speeds up the assembly of the log house

Choose carefully a non-uniform seal with a low density, a sign that the material is the result of recycled jute or linen sack packaging, i.e., of poor quality.

We caulk with flax

Linen- affordable and cheap material, has been used for caulking for a long time. Flax is used to produce flax fiber ("euro flax"), bast fiber and flax tow. IN favorable conditions The linen seal will last a long time, maintaining elasticity.

Fiber caulking can raise the height of a log house up to 15 cm. At the same time, due to shrinkage of wood and unprofessional caulking, the log house can shrink by 3-5%.

The disadvantages of flax include its susceptibility to rotting. In addition, the linen seal can be pulled apart by birds and rodents and attacked by insects. In addition to 100% flax fiber, flax tow, flax batting (linen felt) and flax jute are used in construction.

The use of a hammer drill with an appropriate chisel speeds up the caulking process.

Synthetic materials for caulking

Mineral wool is the most “natural” among its man-made “brothers”. It consists of volcanic rock (basalt) and synthetic fiber, which provides “airiness”. The advantage of mineral wool is that when pressed with crowns, it retains its porous structure and thereby retains heat.

The material is laid mainly on profiled timber - in one row, and secured with staples. After assembling the house, the protruding edges of the tape are cut off. Mineral wool is elastic: it is easily restored, filling all the cracks, completely blocking access to water and preventing air flow. Additional caulking after shrinkage of the house is not required.

Besides, mineral wool has no disadvantages of flax: it does not absorb moisture and does not collapse, does not attract birds, is fire-resistant, does not rot and is more technologically advanced.

Shrinkage will occur after caulking

Basic rules for caulking

Caulking is carried out simultaneously along the entire perimeter of the log house from the inside and outside, starting from the lowest groove. This is important, otherwise caulking one separate wall can lead to distortion of the entire frame. During the drying process, walls usually shrink, resulting in cracks, so wooden houses They also caulk after construction is completed.

Six months after the house is assembled, the final caulking of the seams is carried out using combed tow in a “pigtail” manner.

After 1-2 years, when the log house has stood, the final caulking is done to create a “roller”. As a result, the log house again rises in height by several centimeters per floor.

The quality of the caulk is checked with a sharp metal object(steel ruler, chisel, nail), which should not penetrate through the caulk. You can drive a nail into a good caulk!

The insulation is placed in the groove of a timber or log in three ways: without bends, with one or two-sided bends. Fastening is done with a construction stapler.

• fibrous mineral wool insulation based on glass wool, glass staple fiber (Ursa, Isover), basalt mineral raw materials (Rockwool);
• closed-cell materials: extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex), foamed polyethylene (Porilex, Plenex, Izolon, Polyfom, Energoflex), rigid sprayed polyurethane foams, polyurethane foam(Makroflex, Panafix, Macrofoam), sealants;
• open-cell materials: polyurethane foam (foam rubber PSUL-Profband).

When using materials from this list, excess moisture accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, causing the seam to freeze; others contribute to the fact that moisture condenses at the junction of the wood and the insulation (“ Greenhouse effect"), or both together, which eventually causes destruction wooden structure from the inside.

Some synthetic insulation materials are excellent for brick and concrete homes. But not for wooden house construction! Sometimes careless builders use them out of ignorance or selfish intent, as a cheap and easy-to-use material.