Acoustic shelf. Do-it-yourself acoustic shelf (17 photos) How to make a back shelf for vases

2109 creating an acoustic shelf and installing an amplifier and 6x9 pancakes on it

Amplifier MAC Audio Fearless 4000D (nominal 4x150)
Kit for connecting a four-channel amplifier
Speakers 6x9 Kenwood KFC-E6935 (nominal 60)

Plywood sheet 1.5 x 1.5 thickness 12 mm (340 RUR)
Fabric 1.5 x 1.5 (340 RUR almost 225 RUR linear meter was worth it)
Liquid nails 2 cans for a gun, 400 ml each (140 rubles each, installation was called MOMENT)
Fasteners (corners, screws, screws, nails, hinges) approximately 350 RUR

The tools I needed were: a pencil, a jigsaw, a drill, a grinder, a hammer, screwdrivers, keys, a glue gun, scissors, a stationery knife, a piece of aluminum angle 0.3-0.4 thick (for smoothing the glue), a soldering iron and all the junk for it .

Before starting work, I read everything there was on the Internet about creating shelves, found a couple of templates and sizes, and did not buy a paid one via SMS. I wanted to make a shelf from glass to glass with my own mount instead of the standard plastic ones.

At first I thought of making a template out of paper, trying it on, adjusting it, and then cutting a sheet of plywood from the norm. After watching approximate dimensions shelves from glass to glass, I realized that this template would not fit on A1, and A0 in the city I don’t know where to print and I didn’t want to spend money on it. Therefore, I took one of the drawings with dimensions from the Internet and drew it on a sheet of fiberboard, it was approximately similar, but as it turned out after trying it on, somewhere it was small, somewhere it was large.

I spat on all these drawings, took my two standard plastic ones, and a standard shelf, attached it, circled it, and got a template. Because The fiberboard ran out, I took some very thin sheet of plywood from the garage.
When trying it on, it fit better than the previous template, but there was still some reserve in some places, because... I cut it with a jigsaw with a reserve.

In a few approaches we adjust it to be ideal.

With the back seat it looks like this:

Now we put it on a sheet of new plywood (I took 12 mm, you could take 15 mm), trace it and cut it out.

HERE, when trying it on, I ran into a problem. Because the plywood of the template was thin, it fit where the interior trim was bent, but the thick sheet would no longer fit there = . Therefore, we file the edges that do not fit or file them with a jigsaw.

Now the shelf fits perfectly.
Then I decided to give her a test. I inserted the shelf onto the standard plastic ones and placed a 14 kg freon cylinder on it. Then I also added the spare wheel. Holds what you need.

Also at this point I abandoned the idea of ​​making my own mounts instead of the original plastic ones, because... Without the original plastics, there was a lot of open space up to the body, which I really didn’t like, and I didn’t want to rack my brains about where and how to cover it up and hide it, so I left this shelf on the original plastics.

Before finishing the shelf, you need to mark where the speakers will be (relative to the amplifier, I expected it to hang from the bottom of the shelf between the speakers) and which part will open. With the speakers, I simply made a template along the line, took a longer ruler and a tape measure, and marked it out. And with the lid, after some thought, I decided to make the opening part like a curtain door (only in the horizontal plane). This is due to the fact that if you make the opening part very narrow, then it will not fit on the standard plastic ones and you will have to screw some kind of threshold on the bottom of the shelf on which the opening part of the shelf will rest; if it is made too deep, then it will rest against the trunk lid seal will not fall inside.

The shelf from a sheet of plywood has been cut out, marked and now it needs to be finished to the final finish. At this stage I moved from the garage to the balcony of the house.

We cut out the opening part and the holes for the speakers. Now we take the amplifier, attach the mounting corners to it and mark the holes for attaching the corners to the plywood and drill them. I attached them to screws with a nut, washer and engraver washer. Because My amp has a digital screen, so I had to cut a hole for it too.

These are the corners I used:

The amplifier itself lies on the corners, and is also screwed to them using washers with a rubber seal.
The cut shelf with the amplifier attached looks like this:

Divide the opening part in half and set it aside for now.
Let's start covering the shelf with material.
It is written on the Internet that you should take a “sound-transmitting” carpet. Damn, I looked around the city, it wasn’t available anywhere, in textile stores they had never heard of such material. I only found it to order in one auto shop and thought, what the heck with this carpet. In one fabric store I found the material quite dense and similar to the lining of covers, took a 1.5 x 1.5 piece and was pleased, because... it is pleasant on top, and dense with reverse side, and its total thickness is about 3-4 mm.
And also about the glue on which to plant it. It's even more fun. I didn't find any aerosol ones at all. The construction department said that there are no such adhesives at all. I took liquid nails, tested them (I tried gluing a piece of rag to a piece of my plywood) and wow, I grabbed it like hell, you’ll tear it off later. And this glue too white, and it has almost no smell.
So, we put the fabric on our shelf, align it so that there is a margin on all sides. Now we cut it off too with a margin on all sides so that we can bend it.
Take a can of glue and insert it into the gun. (If you don’t have a gun, then this glue is available in regular tubes, but squeezing out of them is not so convenient)

Because Only a strip of glue is squeezed out of the gun, then we go through all the marks with it, and cover the entire plane with strips of glue. Then we apply the fabric and press it with our hands. Now we take the piece of aluminum corner that we have prepared and begin to smooth out all the edges so that the fabric is stretched and lies without wrinkles, large planes can be smoothed with an iron, so those “glue sausages that were squeezed out of the normal gun will be flattened. Turning the shelf over bottom upwards, using a gun we apply all the ends, then we bend the fabric and also smooth it out and press everything with a corner. Because I don’t have a tool that staples everything together, so I used small nails, hammering them into the ends so that they give additional strength and hold the fabric even better. Then we glue on the back side the stock that we left.
P.S. in some places you will have to use scissors, i.e. cut the fabric so that the side ends are glued without the fabric overlapping itself. Well, I think everyone will have their own glue.

I was completely deceived when I covered the folding part, because... it was cut from the shelf itself, it turned out almost end to end without fabric, and when I pasted it over and tried to insert it back, I got a big bummer, I had to cut it off from the side ends, and then glue on additional strips
.
We glue the folding parts in the same way, punching the ends with nails.
After covering the shelf with fabric, you can attach the hangers. After assembly, when the glue dries, because... it is white, those places where the seams are formed can be painted over with a marker:

Assembled shelf has the form:

We move back to the garage, taking with us a set of wires:

Arriving at the garage, I tried on the shelf):

We disassemble the panel and stretch the wires:

The broach for the high panel of the VAZ 2109 looks like this:
We take out the radio and unscrew the panel in the glove compartment area. We lift it, in zone 1 there is a free hole through which you can get into zone 2 which is located between top part dashboard and the “ceiling” of the glove compartment, near the end of arrow 2 there is another hole that leads to the end of the glove compartment, running the wire lower and lower through this hole it will come out near the passenger’s feet, I also stuck it under the sound insulation, and then along the threshold to the trunk .

Along the trim of the rear cup along arrow 1, and then along arrow 2 under the mount rear seat, in the trunk area.
Before that I made a hole in back wall cup lining.
On the second side also (for the power cable).
After reading various articles on the Internet about connecting an amplifier, I decided to stretch right side a wire with linear connectors (with tulips) and a remote wire, and on the left (since the standard wiring was located there) I decided to conduct power cable to + on the battery.

The wire with rulers is laid. Now we stretch the power wire to the driver's seat, there we look for a hole in engine compartment, or drill a new one with a drill, then insert an elastic band into it (I had 2 pieces included in the connection kit). We push the wire into the soot space, then put it into the corrugation (also included in the amplifier connection kit).

We reach the power cable to the battery, leaving a reserve, because Also install a fuse. We take a soldering iron in our hands and solder all the wires, inserting a fuse into the circuit. I attached it like this:

We solder the contact that is connected to the amplifier at the end of the power wire, which is in the trunk. That's it, we've sorted out the power cable.
We take the black wire from the kit, solder it, the ground is also ready, all that remains is to screw it on. And I screwed it onto the screw that secured the rear seat belt reel:

We cut off the wire with which we will connect the speakers, solder the contacts on them on one side, and solder the tip on the other so that it is better pressed into the amplifier. Then we put heat-shrink on the side where the contacts are soldered, and compress it while heating with a heat-hair dryer

I had to use heat shrink because the standard contact housing did not fit on such a thick speaker wire

Now we put the shelf in place, insert the speakers into it and screw the amplifier.

Because I took 12 mm plywood, although 15 was possible, then I decided to give it additional rigidity by screwing an alloy corner into the end from the side of the rear seat: (after trying it on in advance and marking where there would be holes into which the ribs of the corner on which the amplifier rests would go. I made the cuts in the corner with a grinder)

After I screwed in the corner, the shelf became much stiffer and stopped sagging under the pressure of the speakers and amplifier, which weighs almost 6 kg =
Then I used clamps to tie all the hanging wires together so that it was beautiful, so that they would not get in the way and would not be conspicuous.
The places where the seat belt reels were screwed were sealed with self-adhesive film with a pleasant soft coating from above (I don’t know what it’s called, my dad brought it home from work)).

Finally, I screwed the shelf on with self-tapping screws from the reverse side through plastic.
Well, that’s basically it, the shelf is made, installed, secured, the amplifier and speakers are standing, then turn on and configure the amplifier as you want. Just be careful, otherwise I almost spat out my 60 rated Kenwoods, I need to change them to a Mac Audio 200 rated xD
Here are the final photos:
As you can see, the trunk remains completely free for use))

I hope my story about how I made an acoustic shelf from glass to glass will help someone in the future, and will clearly show that it can be made from materials that are 100% REALLY FOUND IN ANY CONSTRUCTION STORE))

P.S. Because I did anti-corrosion treatment on the bottom, so in the photos I have the interior disassembled.

All photos can be viewed in my profile album

Useful topics:

The UAZ-31512 car was produced in Soviet time, there was no talk then about the comfort of a car designed for walking through forests. That is why the owners of this car decide on various modifications: some install seats from foreign cars, others make the upper shelf with their own hands.

To make such a device we will need:
Sheet Chipboard size 150*50 cm
Jigsaw
Wood screws (12 pieces)
Screwdriver
Construction corners
Roulette
File
Foam rubber sheet 10mm thick
Leatherette or leather
Furniture stapler and staples for it
Simple pencil

I suggest that you first draw up an approximate drawing of the product you want to get in the end. Next you need to move on to measurements: shelf length, height and width. When my husband and I took on the development of this update to our car, drawings, measurements and others technical points I studied, fortunately, special education allows it. The length of our new shelf turned out to be 143 cm, its width was 20 cm, and its height was 10 cm. All measurements are clearly visible in the drawing.

Letters marked:
B – glove compartment (2 pcs.)
Magician - radio tape recorder
B – interior light switch
H – hours
D - Speakers

In this shelf we decided to place a radio with speakers, a tank clock, a light switch in the interior, we also wanted to add a glove compartment in which you can store a phone, camera and other small items.
We transfer the dimensions to the chipboard and cut out everything that is necessary; if the holes cut with a jigsaw do not fit, we modify them with a file. Then we fasten the shelf with corners and wood screws in order to give it the necessary rigidity.

Now I need to cover the shelf with foam rubber to give it softness. Armed with a furniture stapler, I got to work. I started covering it from the bottom of the shelf, it was more convenient. I covered the bottom, cut out holes for the speakers and attached the edges with the same stapler.

Then I covered the front part of the shelf, and this is what came out in the end.

The main thing here is not to use staples, because the upholstery material that will be on top will be attached to the staples, and those located on the foam rubber will interfere.
We cover the finished shelf with foam upholstery with material; ours turned out to match the ceiling (which, by the way, I also sewed myself). The shelf is ready, all that remains is to run all the wiring to the electronics and connect it. We place the shelf on the corners: one corner on the sides and two on each side of the windshield, and install the radio.
Now in our car music flows from above, the radio is located above our heads, there is time on the clock and glove compartments where you can put the little things you need for fishing.

The main purpose of installing speakers on the rear shelf is the desire to create stereophonic sound in a car audio system. You can install additional midbass or full-range “woofers” on the rear shelf. The acoustic shelf is also suitable for installing compact low-power active subwoofers.

Some acousticians like it when the sound emitters are removed from the car engine - the main source of noise, while other music lovers believe that it is better to build a stereo installation on the sound of the speakers reflected from the rear window of the car. Due to higher located, permanently fixed acoustic shelves, it is possible to increase the useful volume of the trunk of domestic sedans and hatchbacks.

In any case, the standard rear shelves of sedans and, especially, the lifting shelves of hatchbacks and station wagons are not suitable for acoustic purposes. Even without placing speakers, shelves made of thin plastic recognized as a constant source of noise and squeaks. Ready-made shelves that are sold in abundance domestic producers car accessories are actually semi-finished products of a high-quality acoustic shelf in terms of materials, sound insulation, imprecise location and direction of cutouts for dynamics.

Instead of remaking such semi-finished products, fans of acoustic tuning prefer to make a shelf themselves or order the production and installation of an acoustic shelf at a specialized car service center.

Materials for making an acoustic shelf

Standard decorative shelves, not suitable for acoustic purposes, are made of thin, fragile, rattling plastic. Except household plastic, thin tin or metal sheet, fiberboard, chipboard are not suitable for an acoustic shelf. Such durable plastics as fiberglass vinyl plastic, textolite, plexiglass are expensive and not accessible to everyone.

Professional acousticians believe the best materials for the production of acoustic shelves natural wood(block and thin board) and multilayer plywood. Wood has sufficient strength, durability, and perfectly absorbs vibrations from the metal of a car body. Multilayer plywood (12–20 mm thick) has long been recognized as the best acoustic material, as it is a resonator for the low-frequency sound spectrum.

To firmly mount the rear acoustic shelf, you can use a duralumin or aluminum corner, a stainless steel profile, or a thin-walled profiled (rectangular or square) pipe. For external cladding The rear shelf uses special acoustic fabrics, leatherette or car carpet.

Making your own rear acoustic shelf

Work on manufacturing an acoustic shelf begins with making a template. For some domestic and popular imported models, such patterns are sold on the Internet; in other cases, the pattern is easy to make yourself. Before making a shelf for a hatchback, you need to think about its design (perhaps provide a folding part). Sedans are equipped with solid shelves, which are cut from one sheet of plywood. To make a template, you can use a standard decorative shelf, adding the tolerances of the strips adjacent to the glass and the rear seat.

If you do not want to spoil expensive plywood, the template needs to be cut out (with a margin) from thick cardboard and tried on at the installation site, adjusting exact dimensions. To accurately cut the base of a plywood shelf, it is better to use a jigsaw, which allows you to cut curved surfaces. After making the base, it is tried on on site, checking the installation of the backrests of the rear seats and the smooth closing of the trunk door.

For the speakers that need to be installed in the acoustic shelf, cut out through holes the desired shape and size. The speakers need to be mounted on spacer rings or specially made podiums. When screwing the speakers, you need to soundproof the installation location of the speaker with splenium.

More complex designs shelves are provided with a timber frame with stiffening ribs, to which a base made of thick plywood and a lower skin (made of thin plywood), covering the speakers from the bottom. The finished acoustic shelf is glued with vibroplast along the ends (at the junction with the body) and covered with leatherette or carpet.

The material can be glued or attached to the base with furniture clips using a stapler. Professionals combine both methods; a construction sickle is attached to round and oval cutouts under the carpet. The fully finished shelf is rigidly attached to standard plastic sidewalls, a profiled pipe or a corner installed behind the rear back of the passenger seats. Audio cables from the car radio or amplifier are laid under the removed door sill trims, trunk trim, and inside the shelf. Correct styling cable removal can be the most difficult task for beginners.

Professional acousticians note the following: typical mistakes newbies at self-production acoustic shelf and speaker installation:

• choosing the wrong material for making the shelf (thin materials break under the weight of the speakers or rattle, durable metal-based structures make the machine heavier);
• improper mounting of the speakers (mounting without podiums causes vibrations, interference, and unstable operation of the speakers);
• production of podiums from construction materials polyurethane foam, other household materials (does not bring tangible results, does not provide fastening and constant direction of the speakers);
• continuous sizing of the skin (a thick layer of aerosol glue dampens high sound frequencies);
• incorrect placement of speakers (all sound goes into soft ceiling salon);
• twists and insufficient insulation of cable connections (cause interference, lead to short circuits);
• damage to interior elements and upholstery.

When starting the complex production of a rear acoustic shelf, novice tuning enthusiasts need to objectively assess their strengths and capabilities. For many beginners, more real option will be ordering shelves and installing speakers from experienced professionals.

Order professional production of shelves for acoustics

To properly set up stereo surround sound, not only the location of the speakers or subwoofers matters, but also their angle. Our acousticians have proven speaker layouts for various car models, based on accurate acoustic calculations. They take into account not only the installation locations of the speakers, but also the angle of inclination of the podiums horizontally and vertically (displacement of the direction of sound towards the central axis of the car).

You may want to consult with experienced acousticians before purchasing rear midbass or compact subwoofers. Our craftsmen will install the already purchased equipment into a manufactured shelf on reliable podiums designed specifically for your speakers.

When ordering a shelf, the masters of our acoustic workshop, after your approval of the project and estimate, will technologically correctly perform the necessary work:

• they will produce shields and false panels for the rear acoustic shelf in any configuration;
• will design and manufacture podiums for speakers;
• will replace the plastic brackets for attaching the shelf with a metal structure;
• lay, soundproof, seal audio cables from the car radio or amplifier;
• will ring existing speaker cables;
• replace unreliable electrical harnesses;
• check the correct polarity of the speaker connections;
• decorate a new acoustic shelf, make decorative grilles for incomplete speakers;
• check the sound system while the car is moving.

When installing the shelf and connecting the speakers, the standard electrical wiring of the car remains intact, and the removed interior elements are correctly installed in place. In addition to the main work, our craftsmen can equip LED backlight trunk, improve sound insulation.