DIY wooden box. How to make a wooden box with your own hands

In the course of his life, a person accumulates a lot of small property, which can only sometimes be useful for some need. In our cramped living spaces, there is often a problem with the location of such things.

To solve this issue, you will need a neat container that can be placed in any corner of your living space. The most practical and environmentally friendly option, of course, is a wooden box.

When you produce it yourself, you can use all your imagination and make a unique masterpiece. Fortunately, wood is the material that allows you to make truly original designs.

Why tree

Since ancient times, folk craftsmen have used to make various designs tree. Houses were built from this material and served their owners. long years, providing them with comfort and coziness for living.

The tree is natural material, which is easy to process and has high environmental performance. Wooden structures have an aesthetic appearance and emit pleasant odors.

Of course, this material has its drawbacks, the main ones being rotting and flammability. But with the right approach to wood processing and caring for it in the future, such troubles can be easily avoided.

Any man wants to produce some product with his own hands. Wood is exactly the material with which you can experiment and make something that will not only become a necessary piece of furniture, but will also add unusual aesthetics to the interior of your living space.

To work with wood, you will need a special tool, which a good owner always has at hand. The choice of material must be approached thoroughly, giving preference to the most durable types of wood so that the product lasts as long as possible.

The very first thing to do is to determine the place where the wooden box will be located and carefully take the required dimensions.

• according to the measurements received, cut structural elements drawers - four walls, a lid and a bottom;
• we connect the side walls one by one using nails or self-tapping screws;
• we screw the bottom of the product, starting from opposite corners, to avoid its displacement;
• Finally, we install the lid of the box, which allows it to be tilted using piano hinges.

With the help of simple manipulations, the wooden box is ready for use. The product is refined based on your preferences and tastes.

It is more convenient to root several dozen cuttings in a portable container - in the spring the soil in it warms up faster than in a cold greenhouse, and in the fall the seedlings are easily moved to their wintering site. Making a box with your own hands is not difficult: it will take little time, and suitable scraps of lumber can be found in every household.

There should be enough space in the wooden box for normal growth of cuttings for 4–6 months before autumn transplantation or even 1–2 years, if this is required by rooting agricultural technology. Optimal sizes drawer: 300x350x750 mm (height/width/length). In a shallower container, the lid will interfere with the shoots, and an excessively bulky structure will be more difficult to move.
Preparing for work
For construction homemade box Tool you will need:
– hand saw,
- plane,
- hammer,
– drill,
– wood drills,
– furniture stapler,
- knife,
– roulette,
– square,
- pencil,
– brush.

Pine wood without signs of decay is suitable for work:
1. Boards 16–25 mm thick.
2. Bars with a cross section of 30x50 mm.
3. Thin slats 10x30 mm.
When sorting through boards, discard warped and twisted ones - when high humidity they will get even worse.
Consumables:
1. Nails 50x2.5 – 28 pcs.
2. Nails 60x3.0 – 20 pcs.
3. Decorative furniture carnations – 10 pcs.
4. Antiseptic.

The lid of a homemade box can be a piece polyethylene film or white non-woven material measuring 80x60 cm.
Manufacturing of parts
Drawing of the elements of a box for cuttings

Wooden parts: 1 – longitudinal strips for the sides and bottom; 2 – bottom insert; 3 – strips for end walls; 4 – slats; 5 – handles; 6 – connecting bars.
Using a pencil, square and tape measure, mark the pieces according to the drawings, cutting off any cracked or chipped ends.

Cut the boards to size and smooth the surfaces with a plane. Coat the parts with 2-3 layers of protective impregnation, following the instructions on the package.
DIY box assembly
Fold two short planks into a shield, draw a line parallel to it at a distance of 30 mm from the cut. Repeat the marking on the opposite side. Place connecting blocks along the lines. Knock down the parts with nails and bend them with reverse side protruding ends.

Take two longitudinal strips and “bait” carnations along the edges. Assemble the blanks in a “P” shape, trim the ends and hammer in nails.

Turn the structure over and secure the side strips on the opposite side. Try to drive the nails vertically to avoid the point coming out of the wood.

Nail the bottom parts, placing a narrow strip in the middle and leaving 2-3 mm gaps between the planks to allow for expansion wooden elements when swelling. Attach the handles with nails near the top of the box.

Drill two rows of drainage holes in the bottom of the box.

Make a makeshift lid for the box. Wrap one strip with film and secure the material with staples.

Wrap the second strip with the opposite edge of polyethylene, place the third strip on the lapel and nail it with small nails.

Attach the canvas to the wall of the box at three points, after drilling guide holes in the slats to prevent splitting of thin wood.

When using polyethylene, use a knife to make slits for water to drain, otherwise in heavy rain the film will bend and crush the shoots.

Fill the box you made with your own hands with fertile soil and plant the prepared cuttings.

When placing the container on the surface of the soil, place bricks underneath. After selecting the seedlings for the “school”, free the box from the soil, clean the walls and dry the wood.

If you know how to use a saw and drill, you can make durable drawers that can be used in a variety of projects, from pantry and craft room to fine furniture.

We'll show you how easy they are to make.

Limit yourself to furniture projects only without drawers- the same as trying to drive a car without a steering wheel. In both cases, you won't get very far.

But, having learned to correctly calculate the dimensions, manufacture and install these simple boxes, you'll be able to tackle most projects with confidence.

First, determine the design and style of the drawers

There are two main types of drawer options that suit most projects. Make so-called flush-mounted drawers if you want the front of the drawer to be flush with the front frame or cabinet panels, as in the mobile cabinet project. And to partially cover the façade frame, make overlay boxes. In this article we will tell you how to make mortise boxes (Fig. 1), which can most often be seen in our projects.

Installation.

Choose pull-out slides or another installation method suitable for inset drawers. From many possible options We most often choose telescopic guides for our projects, ensuring smooth opening of drawers and convenient access to their contents.

Materials.

Save money by making boxes from materials that are less expensive than other parts of your project. We prefer lightweight, but fairly durable and inexpensive poplar wood. It is better to make the bottoms of the drawers from 6 mm birch plywood. It is very durable, hardly changes in size, unlike solid wood, and has a uniform thickness.

Connections.

Classic tenon joints " dovetail» are very durable and look attractive, but they take a lot of time to make. Tongue and tongue joints (Fig. 2) are quite strong enough, and they are quickly made using a saw machine without special tools.

To ensure that the drawers fit the openings

Now you need to calculate the dimensions of the box using the formulas in Fig. 3. First measure the width of the opening A and its height B. Full extension telescopic slides are usually about 0.5 inches (12.7 mm) thick, so determine the width of the drawer C by reducing dimension A by 25 mm. The height D may vary depending on your requirements or preferences. To determine the length of the parts, taking into account future tongue-and-groove connections, there is a simple way: you need to reduce dimension A and the length of the box by 38 mm. To find out the dimensions of the false panel, size A and size B should be reduced by 3-6 mm if telescopic guides are used, or by 6 mm if roller guides are selected.

How drawer parts are made

Consistency and accuracy during operations guarantee the tight assembly of parts and the squareness of the boxes, so we recommend using stops rather than marking the length of parts using a tape measure (photo A). If you need to make several drawers for a project, cut out all the front, back and side walls, combining the parts of each type into groups.

Also make a few extra pieces for adjustment before cutting the tongue and groove joints. To make grooves in the side walls, first cut out a spacer 76 mm wide from 6 mm hardboard or plywood, equal in length to the longitudinal stop of the sawing machine. With the 6mm mortise disc in place, position the rip fence 6mm from the disc and raise the disc to a height of 6mm (Figure 4). To check the settings, cut grooves on two scraps (photo B) and make sure that their ends fit tightly together. Having achieved desired result, cut grooves on both ends of all side walls (photo C).

To sample the folds on the front and back walls, attach a 6mm trim to the longitudinal stop using double-sided tape (Fig. 5), and then saw a fold at the end of the trim (Photo D) to check that it fits the grooves made in the previous step. After this, cut out the folds on both ends of the front and back walls. A sanding block with 120-grit sandpaper glued to one edge will help achieve a tight fit (photo E). The tightness of the joints should be such that the ridges fit into the grooves with little effort (photo F).

To prepare the saw to cut the rabbet into which the plywood bottom is inserted, simply remove the wood trim from the rip fence without moving it. Next, cut rabbet into the inside of all four walls of each drawer (Photo G). Check the alignment of the front back and side walls using a piece of plywood (photo H). Having assembled the walls of the box dry, measure its internal width and length.

Add 11 mm to each of these dimensions and cut out the bottoms from plywood. To assemble the drawers, apply glue to both grooves in the side wall (Photo I). To prevent the plywood bottom from moving, add a drop of glue to the middle of the tongue of each wall. Insert the front and back wall into the grooves, add the bottom and then the second side wall (Photo J) and secure all four corners. Measure both diagonals (photo K) to ensure the box is square.

DIY installation of drawers

To install telescopic guides, first mark the center lines inside the housing along which the guides will be attached (photo L). Then draw center lines on the sides of each drawer. Divide the pull-out guides into two parts - drawer and cabinet.

The front end of the body part should be located at a distance of 22 mm from the front side of the body (taking into account the 19 mm thickness of the false panel and the 3 mm margin that protects the retractable guides from jamming when closing all the way).

The drawer parts of the guides are attached to the side walls with a distance of 3 mm from the front side of the drawer. Both the body and drawer parts of the guides have oblong openings-slots (photo M), which allow you to adjust their position.

Mark the centers inside these holes, drill 2.4mm holes for 3mm pan head screws, and attach the slides to the drawers and cabinet (Photo N), placing the screws in the center of the oblong holes. Now insert the drawers and check that they open and close smoothly.

Three ways to install drawers - photo

Anti-friction tape

Price: S6-S22 for a 3-meter roll (depending on base material and thickness).

Permissible load: any that the box itself can support.

Dimensions: width from 12 to 76 mm.

Varieties: nylon or high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMW) is used as a base.

Note: it is glued in places where the box comes into contact with the body. Suitable for traditional furniture drawers without sliding guides.

Roller retractable guides

Price: S2-S7 for a pair of standard guides, S45-S60 for a pair of heavy-duty guides. Permissible load: 25-40 kg. Reinforced versions can withstand loads of up to 100 kg.

Dimensions: 300-660 mm.

Varieties: white, brown or beige guides 250-610 mm long for side mounting.

Note: Inexpensive alternative to full extension telescopic slides. They require the same clearances on both sides of the drawer. When moving the drawer along them, vibrations are noticeable, so leave 3 mm wide gaps around the false panel.

Full extension telescopic slides

Price: S7-S22 for a pair of standard guides, up to $330 for a set of increased load capacity.

Load capacity: 45 kg for standard guides.

Dimensions: 300-710 mm for standard guides.

Varieties: guides with increased travel allow the drawer to be completely pulled out of the body, and automatic options retract the drawer into the body all the way. Miniature guides for small projects 9.5 mm side clearances required.

Note: unlike roller guides, which include right and left parts, telescopic guides do not differ. The drawer vibrates less when moving, so the width of the gaps around the false panel can be reduced to 1.5 mm.

Installation of false panels

Before attaching the panels to the drawers, prepare a dozen 2mm spacers if using telescopic slides. For roller guides, make spacers 3 mm thick.

To temporarily attach the false panel, glue strips of double-sided tape to the box and use spacers to even out the gaps around the perimeter of the false panel.

Having installed the gaskets as shown in photo O, press the false panel against the drawer, push the drawer forward and additionally secure the position of the false panel with a clamp. Without removing the clamp, remove the box from the body and screw in two screws with inside, as shown in the photo at the beginning of the article. Secure the remaining false panels in the same way.

If you need to attach a handle to the front, remove the screws and separate the false panel from the drawer. After marking the centers of the mounting holes, drill them. Make counterbores around the holes on the back of the front wall so that the screw heads do not protrude (photo P). Using these holes, temporarily screw the panel to the drawer (photo Q) and reinstall the two screws through the front wall into the panel.

After final assembly your project (photo R), you may find that the slides need to be adjusted. Read the "How to Level Drawers" section for tips on how to correct crooked drawers.

DIY drawers - drawings

A good owner will always have a whole arsenal of tools at hand: from nails and self-tapping screws to pliers, a level and a set of screwdrivers, not to mention a drill, hammer drill and screwdriver. Very often, simple household repairs never begin because the craftsman cannot find all the tools he needs in the apartment or garage. To prevent this from happening, all working tools should be stored in a specially designated place - a tool box.

What types of toolboxes there are, what requirements they must meet, and how to make a toolbox with your own hands - this is what the article is about.

Types of tool boxes

Essentially, a toolbox is a box with or without a lid, divided into several compartments of different sizes and shapes. Small drawers are designed to store fasteners; they can contain drills, tips or other small parts. As a rule, such boxes are divided into several compartments, each of which has a separate lid. These boxes are easy to carry because they weigh little.

Larger cases are needed for storing and transporting large tools such as hammers, saws, drills or jigsaws. Very large boxes will be needed to contain hammer drills, levels or mallets. These tool boxes are often made on wheels so that they can be moved and transported.

Professional tool boxes may differ depending on the qualifications of the master: for example, a plumber needs one set of equipment, and a car mechanic needs a completely different one. You can find such boxes in construction supermarkets or specialized stores; they are often sold complete with the tools themselves.

Cases are divided into several categories. Here, not only their size is taken into account, but also their design, as well as the material of manufacture. Structurally, these could be:

• Open boxes with handles to hold large tools and make them easier to carry from one place to another.
• Multi-tier boxes with many small and large compartments for comprehensive storage of working parts and their easy transportation. This box can be thrown into the trunk of a car or carried in your hands.
• Compact cases with an ergonomic handle containing all the tools needed for minor repairs or trips to the country.
• Dressers consisting of several pull-out compartments are usually used permanently at the place of work.
• Tool belts are needed for those who work at heights or in hard-to-reach places.
• Trolleys are unique tool boxes on wheels, differing large sizes. Such devices are used to move very large equipment, such as welding machines, Boers.

Important! When choosing a box for your tools, it is better to give preference to multifunctional boxes, where each part has its own place, and small compartments are closed with lids. Otherwise, all the tools risk getting mixed up during transportation.

What are tool boxes made of?

Cases and boxes can be made from various materials, but the main requirement for them is one thing - the boxes must be light, since the tools themselves weigh quite a lot. There are a few more nuances that those who buy a case for their arsenal of tools need to know about:

• The bottom of the box should be as thick as possible, since it is on it that the entire mass of the contents presses.
• A full box should not be deformed when lifted - the walls remain perpendicular to the lid and bottom. If the walls sag, this indicates that the strength of the case is insufficient for such a set of components.
• It’s good if the material of the box is fire-resistant, then the expensive tools will survive even during a fire.
• If there are gaps in the box, dust and debris typical of construction will get inside the box and contaminate the tools. And in this case, the contents are at risk of oxidation and rust due to high humidity.
• Durability is an important factor, because professional boxing costs quite a lot, and the load on it from metal components will be significant.

Today the most popular materials for such boxes the following are considered:

Attention! All materials must comply with special standards, because if the box breaks at the very inopportune moment, all the heavy tools will fall on the feet (or head) of the unfortunate owner.

If you can still make a metal or wooden tool box with your own hands, then you can only really buy plastic boxes.

How to make a tool box with your own hands

If the owner decides to make a box for his equipment himself, first of all, he needs to decide on the dimensions and choose the design of the box.

To do this, you need to inspect all your tools, measuring the largest elements and taking into account small things (bolts, nuts, washers, etc.). Based on these parameters, the dimensions of the container itself and the internal compartments are calculated.

Tool box design

When talking about the design of boxes, they do not mean their shape, but the method of opening and the presence of additional sections. The following designs are considered standard:

• Case - portable box rectangular shape with handle. As a rule, cases are divided into many departments and have removable partitions that allow you to independently divide the space inside the box. The weight and dimensions of such cases are usually small.
• Container - A larger box for many tools. As a rule, it has the shape of a trapezoid with a rectangular bottom. Inside this box there are also partitions, and there may also be separate smaller boxes (folded like a nesting doll). Sections of such a container can be pulled up and to the sides, forming a whole “trellis” with tools and fasteners. Large tool boxes of this type can be equipped with wheels, which is very convenient and practical.
• Multiboxes are located vertically and the drawers in them slide out along guides, like in a regular chest of drawers.

It will be easiest to make a case for tools with your own hands, because this design does not have complex mechanisms and hinges with the help of which additional sections can be pulled out.

Important! Although it is quite possible to build a container with boxes that fold into several floors with your own hands. To do this, each pair of “floors” should be fastened with metal brackets, providing mobility to the elements (as in the figure below).

Bringing an idea to life

If we talk about the material for self-made box, then, of course, it is easiest to work with wood. For the first experience, it is better to choose inexpensive wood - planed coniferous boards are quite suitable for boxing.

The entire process of making a tool box consists of several stages:

1. They draw up a drawing of the future boxing. To do this, use ordinary Whatman paper and a ruler or a professional program such as AutoCAD.
2. The resulting drawing is transferred to wood using a simple pencil or marker.
3. Cut out the parts along the contour using a jigsaw or saw.
4. The wood is treated with antiseptic agents or stains to prevent it from rotting and make it “inedible” for insects and rodents.
5. The box is being assembled. Now all the parts need to be connected into a single structure, according to the drawing. To do this, it is best to use wood glue, which is applied to the ends of the parts and pressed against each other for a few seconds.
6. It is better to additionally secure the elements of the box with self-tapping screws, making sure that the wood does not crack when screwing in the fasteners.
7. Install the lid using regular hinges or another device appropriate to the type of box opening.
8. The lid is equipped with a handle for carrying and transporting the box with tools.
9. Inside the box is marked into sectors, taking into account the diagram and drawing. Additional partitions are cut out from the board and secured in place using glue and self-tapping screws.
10. The walls, bottom and lid of the box are sanded using several types sanding paper, then painted or coated with several layers of varnish.

The box is ready to use, all that remains is to fill all its compartments with the appropriate tools and fasteners.

The simplest tool box

Beginners in carpentry are offered more simple design tool box - a regular box with a handle, but without a lid. The advantage of such a box is that it is suitable for tools of various sizes; if desired, you can even place a water level or a hammer drill here, or you can make a miniature box for an “apartment” master.

This box consists of only six parts:

• two long side elements;
• two short sides, the height of which should exceed the height of the long sides, since the handle will be attached here;
• the bottom, which should be made from a single piece of wood, since it is the bottom that takes the load from the weight of the tools;
• handles, the role of which can be played by a block, strip or piece round section- the choice depends on the size of the box and the expected weight of its contents.

If desired, the design can be supplemented with internal partitions or complicated by compartments with lids or doors.

All elements are assembled into one structure, fixed with wood glue, and then additionally secured with self-tapping screws. Particular attention should be paid to the fastening of the handle - it must be strong and reliable.

You can independently assemble a tool box not only from boards; depending on the arsenal of tools, you can use plywood, chipboard, OSB, galvanized metal or sheet aluminum.

There is nothing difficult in making such a box, and the advantages of the product are obvious: the tools and fasteners will be in a certain place, at any time it is enough to take the box out of the pantry or garage and carry out the necessary repairs.

1. Basic principles
2. Basic model
3. Balcony flowers
4. For seedlings
5. Design ideas
6. Advantages

IN Lately come into fashion natural materials. Any products must be easily disposed of without harming nature. In this plan an excellent alternative The plastic material will be wood, from which you can build an excellent flower box. It will look organically on personal plot a private house and on the balcony of a high-rise building.

Basic principles

Flower boxes can have different purposes, depending on this they decide design features. The box can be used directly for planting and as a stand for flower pots taken out of the house.

The first option should be thought through much more carefully. First of all, the material must be treated with a solution that protects against moisture. Untreated wood will quickly rot due to constant watering. Don't forget about the drainage holes at the bottom.

The second option is much simpler in design; it can be made from simple slats. Such boxes often perform the function of quickly carrying home flowers to Fresh air. The pots can be beautifully arranged inside and the flowers can be taken outside. In case of rain, capricious plants It’s easy to bring into the house and you don’t have to fuss with every flower.

The box is an excellent alternative to an outdoor flower bed. The flowerbed is stationary, and the box can be easily moved and quickly change the atmosphere in the yard. They can cover a hatch or other unsightly object. In addition, in a flowerbed it is difficult to make the necessary soil mixture for each plant.

Basic model

Despite its simplicity, a standard box leaves room for creativity. Base Box Combinations different sizes will help you create an original composition.

To work you will need:

• Board 50×100 mm for making the bottom;
• Board 50×200 mm for side walls;
• Board 20x90 mm, the front part will be made from it;
• Self-tapping screws or nails made of stainless steel;
• Chainlink mesh to create a drainage system;
• Polyethylene film for additional protection of wood from moisture.

First you need to develop a design layout in accordance with your needs and make drawings. It is better to plan the composition in advance so that the flower boxes fit organically into the space. For example, if you plan to place them along the wall, then you need to measure the distance so that you don’t have to redo the protruding elements.

1. In accordance with the drawing, we cut the boards to make the box;
2. We knock together the bottom and side boards;
3. We nail the front and back walls;
4. Cut out a piece of mesh the right size and attach it to the bottom with a stapler;
5. We cover the film to the height of the soil, and make several holes above the drainage gutter for water drainage.

All that remains is to fill the soil and plant flowers. This simple design makes it easy to stack flower boxes on top of each other to create a multi-level flower garden.

Carefully measure the size of the future structure. Flower boxes often do not fit flush against the wall, or, on the contrary, they overlap; be sure to take this into account when drawing up the drawing.

Balcony flowers

More and more often, when walking down the street, you can see balconies and windows decorated with flowers. For outdoor decoration, it is better to use long, but not deep flower boxes. Their height should not exceed 20cm. The earth, especially wet, weighs a lot, so such restrictions are necessary.

The flower box can be attached using hinges, brackets, or simply placed in a forged base. If they take for disembarkation houseplants, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing the structure for the winter so that the flowers do not die.

There are several tips to help minimize the maintenance of your balcony front garden:

• It is better to paint a box with flowers on the south side in light colors, bright ones fade quickly. Preference is given to natural shades. Brown or green work well. The main rule is that the box should not be brighter than the flowers themselves;
• Pay attention to the stability of the structure, poor installed mounts will not be able to withstand the required weight;
• Drainage holes should not be located too close to the wall, otherwise dirty smudges will remain. It is better to place the holes on the far wall or provide a slight slope;
• Flowers are often planted in 2 rows: the first - climbing plants, covering the box itself, the second - the flowers of the main composition. This arrangement allows you not to pay much attention to the design of the box and put it together from simple boards.

For seedlings

In stores now a large number of various containers for seedlings, but experienced gardeners know that production does not take into account many important nuances, among them:

• Fragility;
• Toxic material, which is often low-quality plastic;
• No drainage holes or holes that are too large
• Inconvenient size.

All this does topical issue how to make a box with your own hands. For this you will need good boards, wood glue or nails, drill. First of all, you need to calculate the dimensions and make a drawing. Seedlings, as a rule, are grown on a windowsill, and a box needs to be adjusted to fit it. For ease of carrying, you should immediately provide handles.

Wood also makes excellent individual boxes for seedlings; they are necessary to prevent plants from getting tangled by their roots. Considering that only young seedlings will grow, the height of the box should not exceed 10 cm.

It is better to assemble the main box using nails or self-tapping screws. To make individual compartments, special glue or a furniture stapler is suitable. It remains to decide how to make a wooden box with seedlings not just functional, but also beautiful. A little varnish or paint Nice picture, and the seedlings will become an excellent decorative element.

Seedlings can become an apartment decoration

Design ideas

You don’t have to make the boxes yourself; you can take a ready-made wooden box. This could be a regular garden box, a tool box, even antique chest. A little decor will add color, but sometimes you don’t need to do anything, the non-standard use of an item speaks for itself, example in the photo:

Don't be afraid to experiment and use things for other purposes.

Wooden planters used to be often used at home for planting tall plants. Today they are appropriate in the garden. Several tubs with bushes can become an excellent hedge or act as independent elements.

Decorative boxes with flowers are often made with an emphasis on naturalness. The surface is varnished to protect and highlight the wood texture. If paint is used, it is often noble brown or, on the contrary, light and delicate tones. The main goal is to draw attention to the colors, and not overshadow them with bright colors.

For decoration you can use beautiful vintage patterns. For country garden Country style suits. Not many people know how to make a box look aged. A sample of suitable size needs to be slightly burned with a torch. Pay special attention to the corners and joints of the boards. Clean the surface and varnish. On top you can make an imitation of an old stamp. Making such things does not take much time, but it greatly affects the color of the area.

Advantages

Everyone wants to decorate their garden in accordance with their ideas of beauty, but not everyone can order exactly what they want. The cost of custom work is often scary. It's not that difficult to put together flower boxes with your own hands. This choice has many advantages:

• The cost is much lower than the market price and even more so for custom work;
• The drawing will help you do exactly what you want, and not choose from what is available;
• A wooden box with your own hands will always be an original thing; few people can exactly repeat the design option;
• It’s easy to assemble a box of the right size and dimensions yourself;
• You can make boxes with your own hands different forms, but decorate them in the same style, observing the general concept of the garden.

Even a non-professional can make a flower box. Wood is a material that is easy and pleasant to work with. A regular ruler will help you make the correct markings. A box with flowers gives the area its own unique style, and you can rearrange it every day, updating the space in accordance with your mood.