Insulation of the attic floor from the inside. Features of insulating the attic floor with mineral wool

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Arrangement of living space on site attic space has long ceased to be a rare occurrence. All more owners houses are interested in how to properly carry out repairs so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Let's consider how to insulate an attic if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.

An attic is not just a lived-in attic. There are some standards that distinguish these two premises from each other. First of all, the attic roof must have a slope. In addition, the height of the room established by the standard must be at least 2.5 m.

Focusing on the attractive appearance, many decide to arrange an attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with before starting work:

the materials that were used to build the attic directly determine further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
Properly selected engineering solutions, which make it possible to provide all the necessary communications on the upper floor, have no less influence;
The shape of the roof plays a significant role. It can be single-pitch, gable or broken;
in order to hide the load-bearing elements of the roof, you will have to use your imagination;
the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also extend beyond its boundaries, supported by columns.

Each of these aspects has its own influence on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to two main materials - heat and waterproofing. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest zone of the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often causes condensation to appear, which has a destructive effect on materials.

The best materials for do-it-yourself attic insulation

For internal insulation There are many suitable options for attics. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the specific roof with which you will be working. Let's look at what options exist today and what features are typical for them.

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: the pros and cons of the material

Polystyrene foam is one of the most famous insulation materials, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than many others, but this is far from its only advantage:

polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with an impregnation specially designed for this purpose, then the water will simply flow down over the surface;
light weight is another advantage, which greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
the thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is very low, so it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
Styrofoam is easy to cut and attach. This allows you to work with it without any problems even if you lack any experience.

Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with insulating the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.

Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that foam plastic is practically a win-win, When we're talking about about insulating the attic from the inside. But insulating walls with foam plastic from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:

the vapor permeability of foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. This also leads to increased humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on wooden roofing elements;
despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
Over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is to completely replace the thermal insulation material.

Many believe that the listed disadvantages outweigh the advantages and insulating the attic with polystyrene foam is not justified. But we must admit that this is one of the most budget-friendly options, which causes the least hassle, and if the installation technology is followed, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: advantages, disadvantages and features

Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to polystyrene foam. Their technical characteristics are almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If polystyrene foam needs to be laid between the rafters, then polystyrene foam is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.

Helpful advice! Some manufacturers offer customers slabs with stepped joints, which makes the joints even stronger and more reliable. This fixation of elements together is an ideal option for insulating an attic roof.

Among other advantages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. Besides, service life This material is quite large, provided that all the technology for insulating the attic with penoplex is followed.

Expanded polystyrene is not prone to rotting or decomposition, which is also important in the case of work on the roof. Any finishing coating can be applied over it, which will give an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.

Working with polystyrene foam yourself is easy: a variety of adhesive mixtures and mastics are suitable for fixing it. And in some cases they even use a construction stapler. So there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements for installation.

But behind all these positive characteristics We must not forget about the only, but rather serious drawback of insulating polystyrene foam from the inside of walls and roofs - the material has increased level flammability. For owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful installation of all communications, in particular electricity.

Of course, manufacturers are trying to reduce this drawback to a minimum, but today we can say with confidence that this question remains open, and every owner who has chosen to insulate the walls from the inside with penoplex is obliged to take care of their safety.

Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for insulating balconies. Expanded polystyrene has very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time on the balcony it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity.

Insulating the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex

Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is used everywhere and is widely known for its properties. It got its name because of its fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton wool. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.

Low thermal conductivity goes well with the ability to not absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.

Mineral wool belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if top part The roof will be covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating when exposed to sunlight. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike polystyrene foam, it is not at all of interest to rodents and various insects.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with mineral wool must be done taking into account the fact that this is a fairly elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, provided it is properly fixed.

Helpful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of approximately 2 cm. This will allow them to be held and not fall out even in the absence of additional fastening elements.

Insulating the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material?

According to its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in in this case the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. Strength indicators and soundproofing abilities are also slightly higher. But when in contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.

The use of glass wool for insulation of residential premises does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized low rate flammability.

When working with the material, safety regulations must be followed to avoid glass wool fibers getting into the air. Its small particles can cause irritation of mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and safety glasses is a must.

Helpful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can cause skin irritation, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.

Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof from the inside using stone wool

Stone wool is the most expensive option among similar materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and, in terms of reliability, significantly exceeds all other options. Here are some of its main advantages:

The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
the level of vapor permeability is very high;

the material practically does not burn;
no mechanical loads can deform stone wool or affect its characteristics;
the material has a long service life;
You can purchase stone wool in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into pieces of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.

Due to the high cost of stone wool, they often try to replace it with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users claim that the price of the material is quite justified, and provided that the installation technology is followed, it very quickly pays off the incurred costs.

Related article:

Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic insulation for roofs. Insulation of the attic roof.

In addition, it is quite possible to carry out all the work on insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands. Video instructions can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and recommendations from specialists will help you avoid common mistakes.

Insulating the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold

Ecowool is a pre-crushed material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters, using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.

Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material- paper whose properties are very similar to those characteristic of wood. Given its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.

One of the components that is part of ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic of natural origin, which makes it possible to provide wooden roof elements with effective protection against the formation of fungus and mold.

Ecowool is applied in a thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat but also sound insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So the not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.

Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam: basic technology and material features

Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern among all the listed methods insulate the attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that could become a source of cold air. In addition, the service life of this material is one of the longest, up to 30 years.

Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if the wooden roof of the house begins to gradually deform over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.

But there are also aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as roof insulation from the inside. This primarily concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.

Another aspect is the complex application technology, which involves the presence certain experience work in this area and does not allow beginners to independently cope with the task efficiently.

Helpful advice! The ideal option is to invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will do high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands using penofol

Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among methods modern insulation walls and houses. Along with high sound insulation rates, it is also worth noting the fact that penofol has a high-quality aluminum coating, which can be applied to one or two sides.

Here are a few more arguments in favor of using penofol for attic insulation:

the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
the closed system of air bubbles characteristic of this material serves as an excellent barrier to steam penetration.

This method is also not cheap and requires significant financial investments to implement. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money on quality material and thereby ensure comfortable conditions residence for many years to come.

Combining materials is not at all uncommon. Materials with compatible characteristics can be used together for insulation. For example, mineral wool and polystyrene foam go well together. The first is placed between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will allow you to achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.

Can provide reliable thermal insulation in combination with other materials

As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option that will satisfy the idea of \u200b\u200bthe price and quality of the material.

One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a rash choice in favor of the cheapest option for attic insulation. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but the choice must be taken into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on thermal insulation material may lead to the fact that after some time of operation, you will have to carry out repair work or even completely replace the entire material.

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands: video and stages of work

Each material has its own fastening characteristics and should be used exclusively in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. But if we talk about general procedure carrying out work, there are mandatory stages that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.

The first layer of waterproofing material is laid out, which should protect the insulation from the destructive effects of moisture. The film is overlapped so that one layer overlaps the other by 10-15 cm. The material is secured using construction stapler, and the joints are additionally taped with tape.

Then, if necessary, a sheathing is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. They need to be attached to the rafters, positioned parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element separately, using a building level. This will prevent any roof defects from occurring in the future.

A heat insulator is placed on the rafters or sheathing and secured in a suitable manner. For example, if we are talking about using any type of wool sold in the form of rolls, then the material is cut into pieces of the required size in order to lay them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation should be such as to correspond to the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case, all free space must be filled with insulation.

The top layer of this “pie” is a layer vapor barrier material, which can be used as polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt. As with waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case it is better to fasten it using thin wooden slats, placing them in increments of 40-50 cm. All joints must be taped.

Helpful advice! If you need to lay several layers of thermal insulation material, you need to lay a vapor barrier film between each of them. This is especially true for cold regions.

As a final step, all that remains is to take care of a suitable finishing coating, which can be attached to the sheathing or, in the absence of it, directly to the bars. It is worth taking into account the weight of the decorative panels used, since installation of the heaviest of them may require preliminary installation of a metal profile frame.

The main mistakes made in the process of insulating the attic

The final result of the work, which is done by hand, directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are followed. It is worth paying particular attention to the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are capable of absorbing moisture subsequently dry out, which often causes cold in the room.

if the roof slope does not exceed 13°, this will cause precipitation to remain on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can negatively affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
installation of thermal insulation material on the walls and roof is not all the necessary work. It is also necessary to take care of insulating windows (using Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists to ensure that leaks are avoided. Especially if it is necessary to install windows at an angle;

in order to provide the thermal insulation material with ventilation and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of approximately 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
it is strictly forbidden to skip at least one of the necessary layers of vapor or waterproofing materials;
If the thermal insulation material is thicker than the rafters, then their height can be increased by filling additional slats yourself.

These simple recommendations can help in the work process, significantly improving the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.

Insulating the attic gable from the inside is far from the most difficult task that a home owner may face. Often, owners want to place a balcony on the top floor, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.

As with walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on a balcony, although it is worth noting that loggia insulation technology is often used here, which has not been mentioned before. It will help you to understand in detail the features of this process. step-by-step instruction“Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony from the inside.”

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video instructions

As clear example It is recommended to watch a training video where the technology of insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool is presented in detail. This will allow you to familiarize yourself in detail with all the nuances and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.

Proper insulation of the attic from the inside allows you to use the room all year round In addition, this helps to significantly save on heating and energy costs for heating the building as a whole.

Options for attic insulation depend on the stage of construction of the house. In the article we will figure out how to properly perform thermal insulation, the best way to insulate the premises, and offer step-by-step instructions on how to insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands.

How to insulate an attic floor

How to properly insulate a reinforced concrete floor

To insulate the floor, first we clean the slab of debris and dust, and seal the cracks and uneven areas with cement-sand mortar. Next, we waterproof the slab using the coating method. bitumen mastic on 2 layers, or lay roofing felt, the joints should overlap and hermetically glued blowtorch– this will protect the insulation from condensation.

We lay insulation on the floor, it can be mineral or basalt wool, expanded clay, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, etc. Insulation is laid on the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 600*600 mm or more, made of reinforcement with a cross-section of up to 6 mm.

The reinforcement is filled with cement screed, after which you can begin finishing the floor; the material is selected depending on the design of the attic.

Photo of floor insulation in the attic, the insulation layer should fit snugly against the joists

How to make floor insulation over a wooden floor

Before insulating a wooden floor in the attic, be sure to treat the old coating with a fire-resistant compound and antiseptics. Next, for insulation, logs are made of 100*100 mm timber, in increments of 500-600 mm. The joists are sheathed with a waterproofing membrane, and on top of it, between the beams, insulation is laid very tightly; all gaps should be sealed with polyurethane foam. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier, always with an overlap of 150 mm. Can be mounted on top sheet material: plywood, chipboard, OSB, on which it is laid fine finishing, or cover it with a floorboard for painting.

How to insulate an attic ceiling

Hemming is extremely rare, since this is already a low room. But if such a need arose due to severe frosts, or the features require it, then, first of all, it is necessary to stretch a vapor barrier membrane along the perimeter of the future ceiling. Next, we install a sheathing made of wooden blocks or metal profiles, with a cell 600*600 mm. We place insulation and mineral wool inside the sheathing. The lathing is covered with another layer of vapor barrier, then you can line the ceiling with facing materials.

Lathing for insulating the attic ceiling

Advice: If the attic is planned to be insulated slab materials, then they are attached on top of the sheathing. The frame should be reinforced with stiffeners so that the sheathing does not sag due to the weight of the insulation.

Which insulation to choose for the attic

The question of what is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside is a very pressing one, and reviews on forums vary radically; each material has its undoubted advantages, as well as disadvantages.

Styrofoam

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam is the most cost-effective option to keep the room warm. To insulate the attic space, you will need a layer of foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm. This is an almost weightless material, easy to install, suitable for insulation and. But it burns, becomes infected with mold, and in addition, rodents use it to organize their passages throughout the house. Despite the fact that this method of insulation has stood the test of time, the question of whether it is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam, reviews vary from “in no case” to “only polystyrene foam,” remains open. We invite you to watch the instructions, which tell you in detail how to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam; the video clearly demonstrates all the advantages and disadvantages of working with this material.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation attic floor extruded polystyrene foam, as a rule, is performed outside the building. Despite the fact that many people consider this material to be polystyrene foam, they chemical composition very different. Expanded polystyrene tolerates chemical influences well, has a thermal conductivity lower than that of polystyrene foam, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even if water has penetrated the surface of the insulation, the material will retain its properties during freezing and thawing. thermal insulation characteristics. Expanded polystyrene has different densities; the higher this indicator, the heavier the insulation; the lower the density, the better the heat and sound insulation properties. But extruded polystyrene foam is destroyed upon contact with complex carbohydrates, and it is also deformed from ultraviolet rays, therefore, it is not recommended to use nitro-based paints.

Watch the video on how to insulate an attic with your own hands using extruded polystyrene foam

Penofol

Insulating the attic with penofol is financially expensive compared to polystyrene foam. This is a new roll insulation that is a competitor to mineral wool. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, a good thermal insulator, and is resistant to moisture. The huge advantage of penofol is that it protects the room from exposure radioactive substances, but does not tolerate mechanical loads well, and requires skills when laying the thermal insulation layer; violation of the technology leads to a deterioration in the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation made by spraying polyurethane foam has no joints and, therefore, cold bridges. Such insulation does not require the cost of preliminary preparation of the attic for thermal insulation; the material is poured to the thickness of the attic rafters or more. The insulation is sprayed directly onto the walls, floor, and ceiling special equipment. Polyurethane foam is resistant to fungi, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through, but does not tolerate the effects of esters and concentrated acids.

Ecowool

Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose, and 20% antiseptics and fire retardant additives. When using this material to insulate an attic, you need to take into account the volume, since the insulation is greatly loosened. To perform high-quality insulation of the attic with ecowool, you should apply a layer about 200 mm thick. This environmentally friendly insulation, lies on the surface like papier-mâché, manually or mechanized way, does not form joints. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, is resistant to fungi and bacteria, and practically does not burn. Installation of the thermal insulation layer requires knowledge of application technology and professional skills.

Insulation with ecowool, this method of thermal protection requires skills and knowledge of the technology of applying material to surfaces

Mineral wool

Using mineral wool for insulation is the most popular way to keep heat in the attic. Depending on the composition and density of the wool, it can be placed in a spacer or in a special frame. Mineral wool does not rot, but absorbs moisture, because of this its thermal insulation characteristics are reduced, and the insulation saturated with moisture becomes noticeably heavier, which puts significant loads on the rafters and roof of the attic. When insulating with mineral wool, there is practically no waste left and it is easy to cut. To insulate the attic floor, a layer 100-200 mm thick is required, depending on design features structure. When working with mineral wool, you should wear a protective suit and goggles.

Insulation of the attic, video instructions on how to properly lay a thermal insulation layer of mineral wool

Sawdust

I would like not to leave the old grandfather's and almost free way insulation. Construction of a thermal insulation cake using sawdust. This is an environmentally friendly, time-tested method of insulation. Sawdust is mixed with lime and an insulating layer 100 mm thick is laid. Such thermal insulation is several times inferior to modern insulation; in addition, it is a fire hazardous insulation method. But if this country house, and according to the design the attic is cold unheated room, then this method of insulation is completely justified.

To insulate the attic it can be used as traditional materials, as well as modern insulation materials, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

Now the market is represented by a huge selection of insulation: rockwool stone wool, slab foam, backfill, plates, mats, etc. Which insulation is better for an attic depends on what room should be insulated: if it is a warm attic, then basalt wool, PPU, and if it’s cold - polystyrene foam and sawdust. The second criterion for choosing insulation is how much you are willing to spend on thermal insulation. It is believed that in principle there cannot be universal insulation materials; each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. We tried to select for you as much as possible useful tips How to insulate an attic, video materials will help you understand the intricacies of thermal insulation with each specific material.

Subtleties of insulation and hydro-vapor barrier of the attic

How to install insulation correctly?

When thinking about how to insulate the attic floor, we often lose sight of important things. For example, how correctly the material was laid plays a big role in the effectiveness of insulation.

The material should be laid in two layers, with the second covering the seams and joints of the first.
The thickness of the rafter legs and the first layer of insulation should be the same. Otherwise, the slabs of the second layer will get bent, which will lead to a loss of joint density.
The width of the insulation should be equal to the distance between rafter legs. This way the slabs will lie flat, with complete abutment, and the insulation of the attic floor from the inside will be complete.

The second layer of insulation does not stay in place, what should I do?

There are usually no problems with insulating the attic with slab materials - they fit between the battens of the counter lathing at a loss. Rolled types are soft, they sag and, as a result, fall out of their place. A logical question arises: how to properly insulate an attic with your own hands so that everything is securely fixed? The problem is solved with nails and synthetic cord:

We hammer small nails along the edges of the counter batten slats.
The cord is tied to the topmost nail.
The material is put into place and secured with a cord, overlapping from one slat to the other.

We work like this until we finish insulating the attic with our own hands.

How to insulate walls under roof slopes?

If the internal walls of a residential attic under a sloping roof are made vertical, in addition to choosing how to insulate the attic walls from the inside, you are faced with another task: placing the insulating material. There is no need to do this directly along the roof slopes. The insulation is placed on panels that will serve as the walls of the future room. And so that the material does not fall into the space under the roof, with reverse side The boards are hemmed with scraps of boards. Insulating walls from the inside, the photo of which you see below, is done in exactly this way.

Is it possible to replace floor vapor protection with moisture protection?

Typically, the insulation of an attic floor in a country house consists of a layer of waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. The idea of installing a moisture barrier instead of a vapor barrier seems logical - protecting the floor from spilled water. Not so simple. The insulation works as long as it is dry. Thermal insulation values decrease with increasing humidity levels.

If we flood a floor with a vapor barrier, the water will sooner or later evaporate, and the insulation will restore its properties. When there is moisture protection on top, and water somehow gets inside the ceiling, there will be no escape for the moisture. We get: lack of floor insulation in the attic floor and the presence, over time, of mold underneath.

How to properly install a vapor barrier?

Insulating an attic floor from the inside can never be done without installing vapor barrier membranes. This process has its own nuances:

Foil membranes are installed with the shiny side into the room.
The positioning of conventional fiberglass sheets is determined by touch - the smooth side towards the insulation, the rough side towards the room.
Installation of any vapor barrier sheets is carried out in strips, in a horizontal direction, from bottom to top.

These rules apply to the insulation of the attic floor both along the roof slopes and gables.

How wide should the ventilation gap be between the roof and the insulation layer?

The width of the ventilation gap depends on the type of roofing material, and not on what you are going to use to insulate the attic from the inside:

Bituminous shingles, rolled materials, asbestos-cement sheets, galvanized steel - there must be at least 50 mm under them.
Any corrugated sheets such as metal tiles, profiled galvanized steel - from the roofing material to the attic insulation layer from the inside, leave a gap of 25 mm.

How to avoid mistakes when insulating an attic with polystyrene foam?

Do not use mushroom dowels when insulating the attic with polystyrene foam. Reviews usually do not reflect this, but multiple cold bridges resulting in the process increase heat loss.
When thinking about how to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam, remember that for wooden surfaces this material is not suitable.
Avoid using polyurethane foam to fill gaps between foam boards. It is better to choose a material that has a tongue-and-groove connection. If you need to put the cut pieces together, just adjust them with a knife.

Which is better, basalt wool or slag wool?

Many people are at a loss as to which insulation is best for the attic. This is especially true for slag and basalt mineral wool - they are called in one word, they look similar. The latter is better because it has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.12. For slag wool this indicator is 0.48. Another advantage of basalt insulation is the absence of formaldehyde in the composition. Therefore, when deciding how best to insulate the attic from the inside, it is preferable to choose basalt wool.

What to do if the thickness of the insulation is greater than the height of the sheathing?

If, while insulating the attic gable from the inside, you find that the insulation is too thick and protrudes above the sheathing, under no circumstances should you press it down. The thermal properties of a material directly depend on its density: the lower it is, the greater the effect of the insulation.

By crushing, for example, slag wool, we compact it, worsening its properties. How to insulate the gable of an attic without redoing the sheathing? Simply increase its thickness by stuffing slats of the desired section on top. They do the same with roof slopes, increasing the rafters in width.

Is it possible to do without insulating the insulated attic floor?

Deciding how to insulate the attic for winter accommodation We often doubt whether it is necessary to take such care of the hydro- and vapor barrier of the floor. In theory, if the floor is well insulated and insulated along the walls and roof, this need not be done. However, one should not forget that warm air tends to rise upward, and with it moisture rises. That is, the floor of the top floor receives moisture from the entire house. Therefore, in winter version Attic layers of insulation must be enclosed in water and vapor barrier membranes.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.

Some time ago I completed an order to insulate the attic for winter living. While doing the work, I thought that the technology I used was quite simple and even an untrained person could make thermal insulation from the inside with his own hands.

In today’s material I will tell you what is better and how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands. This instruction will help you avoid making mistakes that I had to face at the beginning of my construction career.

I assure you, upon completion of the work, the attic floor wooden house from a useless storage of rubbish it will turn into a cozy and comfortable room, in which all your household members will fight to live.

Features and methods of insulating an attic space

Before talking about ways to insulate the under-roof space from the inside, I want to note that it is necessary to do this, even if you are not going to live in the house in the winter. The fact is that the attic, due to its location, is strongly heated by the sun in summer time, therefore, without a reliable insulating layer, the temperature inside will be uncomfortable (or you will have to install a very powerful air conditioner).

If you have already insulated ordinary living spaces and think that you know how to insulate an attic, I have to disappoint you. Thermal insulation of a room under the roof (not an ordinary room on the second floor, but the attic) has some features that I simply must mention:

The geometry of the attic space follows the contours pitched roof, therefore far from a standard cube or parallelepiped. The insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces, so the choice of thermal insulation material will have to be approached with special care. For example, the use of too soft and flexible products is completely excluded.
The roof truss system and roof covering are always made of lightweight materials so as not to place a large load on the load-bearing walls of the house. Consequently, the heat-insulating cake should weigh so much as to only slightly weigh down the structure, otherwise the roof may collapse under a significant snow load.
In addition to the roof slopes, the attic has two more gables and a floor (it is also an attic floor). If you do not thermally insulate these surfaces, all efforts to install insulation in the rafters will not lead to any significant result.

Roofing material, no matter how reliable it is, can allow atmospheric moisture to pass through, which, in turn, can damage the insulating layer or significantly reduce its technical characteristics. Therefore, during installation it is necessary to reliably protect the thermal insulation from moisture.
When buildings catch fire, the fire usually moves to the top of the home, where the attic is located. Therefore, to ensure the possibility of evacuating people from this room for thermal insulation, I personally recommend using non-combustible or low-flammable insulation. After all, the matter is further aggravated by the fact that the roof rafter system is made of wood, which cannot be classified as NG.
Well, the last point is environmental friendliness. Care must be taken to ensure that the insulation does not pose a danger to people living in the attic, regardless of its operating conditions - heating, humidification, freezing, and so on.

First, let's decide on the method of thermal insulation. There are two options:

Insulation of attic walls. This method is used when the roof slopes are not attic walls. The role of the latter is played by additional partitions made of wood, plasterboard, plywood, and so on, which should be insulated.
The advantage of this method is the presence of additional ventilated space under the roof. The downside is a reduction in the usable area of the room.

Insulation of roof slopes. In this case, the heat insulator is installed in the rafter system, after which you can divide the spacious attic using thin partitions, without worrying about cold or heat. The advantage is that the entire under-roof space will be insulated. And with the help of partitions you can divide it into several separate rooms, arranging an additional storage room in the attic.

I prefer the second method of insulation, so it will be discussed further.

Selection of materials and tools

It's time to decide how to insulate the attic space from the inside. To do this, you can use polystyrene foam, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool and many other heat insulators that are offered for purchase by domestic and foreign industry.

But I insulate the attic using basalt wool. This material, in my opinion, best meets the requirements for the thermal insulation layer of such a room.

I will briefly list the most important advantages of basalt mats:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material retains heat indoors so well that for effective thermal insulation it is enough to install a layer 10 cm thick.
Hygroscopicity	Basalt fibers do not absorb water and have hydrophobic properties, so moisture that gets inside is quickly removed through the gaps without reducing operational properties material.
Vapor permeability	The material does not interfere with air infiltration, normalizing humidity in the attic and extending the service life of wooden parts.
Non-flammability	Basalt wool does not ignite in a fire and helps to extinguish the flame, giving time to evacuate people or eliminate the source of fire.

I could talk for a long time about the advantages of mineral wool, but this is not the topic of today’s article. Therefore, I simply noted the better way to insulate the attic from the inside.

I prefer to use TechnoNIKOL Technolight Extra basalt mats with a thickness of 10 cm and dimensions of 120 by 60 cm. More dense material it is not advisable to buy, since it will not experience loads between the rafters.

It is very important to pay attention to the dimensions of the material. I chose TechnoNikol mats because their width is 60 cm, which is exactly the distance between adjacent rafters in the case I am describing.

In addition to direct thermal insulation, other materials are also needed:

Wooden blocks with a cross section of 30 by 50 mm, with the help of which a counter-lattice will be formed for ventilation gaps that help remove moisture.
Super-diffuse, vapor-permeable, hydro- and windproof membrane. These films are especially high quality from the companies Strotex and Juta, so I recommend buying them.
Penofol. Thermal reflective material that I am going to use instead of the standard vapor barrier film that protects the mineral wool from moisture from inside the room.

Antiseptic primer. It is necessary to treat the roof rafter supports with it to prevent the appearance of mold and mildew. You can buy a composition with fire retardants, thereby increasing the fire safety of the building.
OSB boards. They will be needed to construct the sheathing, on which flexible tiles are laid on one side and eurolining on the other. If you are going to use other materials, then continuous lathing may not be needed.
Polyurethane polyurethane foam. Useful for sealing seams between mineral mats.
U-shaped perforated brackets for mounting galvanized sheathing. For me, they will hold the installed mineral mats in place until they are covered with decorative material.

Well, now you can safely move on to how to insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands.

Arrangement of insulation

The entire insulation process can be divided into several steps:

So, I’ll explain how to properly do the work with your own hands in each of the mentioned stages.

Step 1 - Laying waterproofing and roofing material

Let's start with the installation of the waterproofing membrane, since it is installed outside the room before fixing the roofing. This is the only way to reliably protect the insulating layer from atmospheric moisture entering it.

I’ll say right away that the entire roof truss system in the case I’m describing was installed. However, the roofing material and sheathing have not yet been laid.

The process consists of the following steps:

I roll out the first layer of hydro- and windproof membrane. You need to start work from the bottom of the roof slope, gradually moving upward. The membrane is secured with staples and a construction stapler or nails with wide heads. It is necessary to install the film not under tension, but with a slight sag (about 2 cm per meter) so that it does not tear when the air temperature decreases.

I lay the second and subsequent sheets of waterproofing film. You need to act in the same way as in the previous paragraph. But there is one point here. The edge of the upper membrane should overlap the edge of the lower membrane by a distance of 10 cm to ensure complete impermeability to moisture.

I seal the seams of the membrane. Adhesive tape is used for this. It just needs to be glued to the joints of adjacent waterproofing membranes.
I'm installing a counter batten. Her role is played wooden blocks, which are secured with self-tapping screws on top of the waterproofing membrane on the rafter supports. I recommend pre-impregnating them with an antiseptic and fire retardant to extend the life of the roofing structure.
I secure the additional sheathing boards. They are installed perpendicular to the rafters and fastened with self-tapping screws to the counter-grid. The step between adjacent parts is about 40 cm.

I am installing OSB base boards. They are attached to the boards using self-tapping screws. Here you need to monitor the length of the fastening fittings so that too long screws do not tear the hydro- and windproof membrane located below.

I install flexible roofing. To do this, an underlay carpet is glued to the slabs, after which shingles of flexible tiles are fixed to it.

If you are insulating an attic with a finished roof, then the waterproofing membrane will have to be installed from the inside. This method has two disadvantages:

the labor intensity of the work being carried out increases;
the waterproofing film will not protect the wooden roof rafters.

It is necessary to secure and seal the film so that it wraps around the rafters and adheres to the roof sheathing. Thus, unique baths are formed into which insulating material will be placed.

But before this, it is necessary to prepare the under-roof space for the installation of mineral mats.

Step 2 - Preparing the rafter system

I prepare the space under the roof, namely the rafter system, for thermal insulation:

I clean the wooden parts from dust and debris, and remove objects that interfere with the installation of mineral mats. It is best to clean the rafters with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove dust, sawdust and shavings remaining after installing the roofing material. You should also check to see if the sharp ends of screws, nails, etc. are sticking out anywhere. They can cause injury or damage insulation materials.

I install utility lines and insulate them. Ventilation and chimney pipes can be installed on the roof, as well as the electrical wiring necessary to connect household appliances in the attic:
- Ventilation pipes, if they are laid in an uninsulated part of the attic, must be thermally insulated using mineral wool or foam shells.
- For the chimney, a box should be designed to pass through attic floor and roofing. They must be covered with heat-insulating material (most often perlite or expanded clay), which will increase the fire safety of the room.
- Electrical wiring should be placed in polymer flexible or rigid cable ducts, which will prevent the rafters and insulation layer from catching fire in the event of a short circuit.

I prime wooden surfaces. Better to use for work universal composition, having both antiseptic and fire-fighting properties. For example, composition for wood BS-13 or Fire and Bioprotection Sentinel-2. Apply it on wooden parts you need to use a roller or spray, processing in two layers with intermediate drying for 3 or 4 hours.

I install U-shaped brackets on the side surfaces of the rafters. It is not necessary to use them, since when the rafters are installed correctly, the mineral mats already become tightly spaced. But I’m used to playing it safe, and their purchase does not greatly impact the budget planned for insulation. But if you use cotton wool in rolls, you can’t do without it.

Step 3 — Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of the attic from the inside continues. Let's move on to the main part:

I am cutting mats. Mineral wool is cut into the required pieces using a sharp knife or file with very fine teeth. If the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation, there is practically no need to trim.

I install mats between the rafters. To do this, you need to slightly bend the material in the middle, and then insert the insulation into the desired place. Having straightened out, the basalt mat will take its intended place and will not fall out of the inclined surface.

I secure the mats with brackets. You just need to bend part of the bracket so that its edge rests on the surface of the mat and holds it in place. Instead of brackets, you can use galvanized perforated strips that are attached directly to the lower edges of the rafters.
I seal the seams of the material with polyurethane foam. The gaps must be filled using a gun. Moreover, act so that the composition is inside the entire crack, and not just on its surface. If you make a mistake at this stage, cold bridges may form at the joints, which will reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

To increase the reliability of the heat-insulating layer, you can install not one, but two layers of insulation. Just take mineral mats with a thickness of not 10, but 5 cm. Then the individual layers are installed so that the joints are spaced apart. And you don’t have to worry about cold bridges at all, although it’s still worth sealing the seams.

Step 4 - Finish Coat

Decorative finishing of the enclosing structures of the attic room is carried out as follows:

I install a heat-reflecting and vapor barrier layer. As you understand, for this I will use penofol - foamed polyethylene with a reflective layer of polished aluminum foil. It is mounted as follows:
- The first sheet of penofol is installed with a foil layer towards the living room, after which it is aimed at the rafters using a construction stapler.
- The second and subsequent sheets of material are installed so that there is an overlap of 10 cm between the individual elements.
- The joints of penofol are glued with double-sided adhesive tape (inside the joint) or metallized tape (which is glued on top of the joint). It is necessary to ensure that a completely homogeneous and sealed layer is formed.
- If the thickness of your rafters is such that the edge of the insulation does not reach the cut of the wood, then penofol should be laid over the surface of the mineral wool, secured to the side surface of the roof support beams. Otherwise, it may rustle when air passes through the ventilation gap.

I install counter battens to create a ventilation gap. You need to screw the planks using self-tapping screws to the rafters on top of the foam foam. These parts create a gap between the finish and the heat-reflecting surface, which is necessary to remove condensed moisture.

Installing OSB boards. They are attached to the counter-lattice using self-tapping screws. Everything is standard here, except for some small nuances:
- It is necessary to install the sheets so that there is a gap of 1-2 cm thick at the edges (at the gables and the floor). This is necessary for removing excess moisture and compensation for possible changes in material dimensions.
- The seams between adjacent slabs should run randomly (in a checkerboard pattern) and be 2-3 mm thick to avoid warping of the surface during thermal expansion of the base.
- The slabs must be secured so that their edges are located on the counter-lattice bars. The distance between the screws is no more than 20 cm.

You can later install eurolining or other decorative material on the slabs. And we have ahead of us the insulation of the gables, which form two of the four walls of the attic room.

Step 5 - Insulating the gables

I strongly recommend insulating these parts of the attic from the outside, using dense mineral wool, which can be covered on top cement plaster. The work flow is as follows:

I prepare the surface for work. To do this, you need to clean the surface of the walls from remnants of mortar, debris, dirt and dust. After this, the following operations are performed:
- Damage repair. If gaps and cracks are found in the masonry, they must be sealed with cement mortar or blown out with foam.
- Surface priming. To do this, you need to take a primer for brick or (not the one you used to treat the rafters), and then cover the gables with it in two layers with intermediate drying.

I am installing the starting profile. This is a perforated galvanized part on which the insulating layer will rest. It is fixed at the bottom of the wall strictly horizontally. If several of these parts are needed, install them with a slight gap to compensate thermal expansion metal

I glue the first row of mineral mats. Let me remind you that you need to use dense mineral wool, which is intended for subsequent finishing with cement mortar. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- The surface of the mineral wool is pre-reinforced with cement glue, which is evenly distributed over the slab using a spatula.

A bead of cement glue is applied to the mineral wool at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Several lumps of glue are also placed in the middle of the mat so that at least 40% of the surface of the sheet is covered.
The part is applied to the wall. in this case, its lower end must be supported by a pre-established starting profile. Using a water level, it is necessary to check that the basalt mat is installed strictly vertically in all planes.
After the first layer, other mats are glued to the wall in the same way. It is necessary to monitor the verticals and ensure that the seams between adjacent parts are minimal.

I glue the second and subsequent rows of mineral mats. There are no differences here compared to the procedure described in the previous paragraph. You just need to make sure that the vertical ones run away. That is, the seam of the top row was in the middle of the insulation sheet of the bottom row (as in brickwork).
After the solution has hardened, I secure the insulating layer with dowels - “fungi”. They are installed as follows:
- A hole is drilled directly through the mineral mats in the wall using a hammer drill, the depth of which in the brick or concrete should exceed 2 cm.
- A dowel is inserted into the resulting hole, after which the core is installed inside.
- Using a hammer, the core is driven into the dowel so that its head is slightly recessed into the surface of the insulation.
- It’s not just mineral mats that need to be secured. “Mushrooms” should be installed in the seams of the insulating material so that the thermal insulation layer does not come off under load.

I seal the seams of the material. To insulate the seams, polyurethane foam is used, which glues the insulation fibers together, preventing the formation of cold bridges at the junction of adjacent mineral slabs. It is necessary to fill the seam with a gun as tightly as possible.
I reinforce the insulation surface with alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh. To do this, mineral mats are coated with a reinforcing compound, after which a mesh is placed on it and pressed into the solution with a plaster float. Then a little more solution is applied on top so as to completely hide the mesh inside.
I am plastering the surface. The reinforced insulated surface of the gables is plastered and then decorated with the selected decorative material. In the simplest case, you can simply paint the pediment with facade paint.

That's all. Some people still resort to thermal insulation of the interfloor ceiling, but with such powerful insulation as I described, I consider this procedure unnecessary.

Summary

Now you know how to at the lowest cost independently carry out the correct insulation of the walls in the attic floor and the floor with your own hands using mineral wool. However, there are other options.

For example, sprayed polystyrene foam, which makes thermal insulation easy difficult areas, including the Mauerlat in the heated attic. You can learn how to spray polyurethane foam yourself from the video in this article.

If you have any questions, ask them in the comments!

Insulating the attic is mandatory procedure for any home.

Making an attic warm and suitable for year-round living is not difficult. The main thing is to create good conditions to retain heat inside the attic. How to insulate an attic, what materials to use we will consider in this article. Insulation issues can be addressed both during the construction of the house and after, by reconstructing the upper floor.

The attic is not quite a standard room. The roof is in close proximity, the ceilings are usually sloping, and making such a room comfortable for living at any time of the year is not so easy. Unlike the rest of the house, the attic is most susceptible to heat loss due to direct contact with environment. In this regard, you should approach the question: how to insulate an attic with your own hands with the utmost care, having studied the details in detail.

Roof structure

How to properly insulate an attic? To do it yourself from the inside, you need to clearly understand the structure of the roof, the most common design. Therefore, before giving recommendations on methods for insulating the upper floor, let us recall the description of the “layer cake” that makes up the roof structure:

Top covering, slate, tile (ceramics or metal), soft covering (for example, ondulin). The main roofing material does not provide any insulation; its purpose is to protect it from the pressure of wind, rain and snow. The top roof covering also plays a purely aesthetic role.
Under the main layer it is laid in the form of roofing material or a special film. Such material must “breathe”, i.e. allow air to pass through, but not allow water to enter. The waterproofing layer is laid so that condensation and moisture flow down through it and are removed from under roof space.

Laying waterproofing coating roofs.
Thermal insulating layer, usually made of foam, glass wool or similar material. The task of this layer is to retain the heat coming from inside the room.

Insulation of the attic with mineral wool slabs.
A vapor barrier layer of a special film designed to protect against moisture and fumes from inside the room.

It is important that the vapor barrier film is complete.
Decorative finishing of the attic floor. It can be plywood, lining, drywall and others Decoration Materials. The trim is attached directly to the rafters or to a special metal frame, the last option will “eat up” some space in the room.

The choice of decorative finishes is a matter of personal taste.

To insulate the inside of the under-roof space with foam plastic or a similar heat insulator, it is important to follow the recommendations and building rules so as not to encounter the formation of condensation and to ensure the tightness of the upper floor.

Roof thermal insulation

Types of heat-insulating materials

To efficiently insulate an attic space from the inside, a variety of heat insulators are used:

polystyrene foam and penoplex;
foamed polyurethane;

Types of modern thermal insulation materials

Each of the listed and many other insulation materials has its own pros and cons. Which insulation is better for the attic, which one to choose depends on a variety of factors. Therefore, let’s take a closer look at each type of heat insulator to understand how best to insulate the attic and the entire upper floor.

Styrofoam. These are the most common materials recently, because they are not expensive, they can be installed quickly and easily, and their thermal insulation properties are very high. Among the disadvantages of polystyrene foam, it should be noted that it is toxic and flammable, and it does not tolerate high humidity.

Thermal insulating foam is available in slabs of different thicknesses.

Penoplex (expanded polystyrene) is more preferable, as it has better thermal insulation, good moisture-repellent properties, fireproof, non-toxic. It has high density and vapor permeability.

Penoplex, although similar to polystyrene foam, still has different properties.

Mineral wool. This insulation is produced by many manufacturers. It is very environmentally friendly because it consists of basalt fibers mixed with stone chips. This is good protection against rodents, the material is durable, resistant to moisture, and does not lose its properties and shape after getting wet. Mineral wool can be laid quickly and easily by rolling out a roll, leaving no cracks or gaps, which is difficult to achieve when laying insulation boards. Insulation from the inside of the attic mineral wool– the optimal option in terms of simplicity and cost-effectiveness.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and slabs.

Myths and reality about basalt wool

Glass wool. A type of mineral wool, but with its own characteristics associated with the material from which it is made. Since the production of glass wool uses waste from glass products, its use generates dust that is harmful to the body. Laying work requires the use of special clothing, glasses and a respirator. Also applies to budget option insulation materials. The advantages include high thermal insulation, low cost, lack of toxicity, and non-flammability. The disadvantages have already been mentioned above - inconvenience during installation, the need to strictly adhere to safety requirements.

Structure of glass wool.

Differences between glass wool and basalt wool

Choosing clothes for working with glass wool

Fiberboard (fibreboard). Used most often in bathhouses where there is an upper floor. This material in the form of slabs has excellent sound insulation, installation is very simple and quick, and holds heat well. The slabs do not deform during installation and do not require additional finishing, so wallpaper can be glued immediately after installing the fiberboard. Their surface is smooth and does not require leveling; this method of insulating an attic from the inside is also considered inexpensive.

The structure of the fiberboard board.

Foamed polyurethane. Refers to modern technological materials. It is applied using spray devices. It is quite expensive and not entirely simple technology application. The advantages include high speed applying polyurethane to walls and

The size of suburban areas and the desire of their owners to use them to the maximum fertile layer soil persuasions to make decisions about expanding usable areas in the vertical rather than horizontal direction. It is easier and more profitable to equip an attic above the bathhouse than to attach an additional recreation room to it or build a separate house. True, this option will be acceptable only if there is more than 50% of the useful under-roof space with a height of 2.5 m, and if the ceiling above the bathhouse is designed in such a way that you can walk on its upper plane without fear. If the above prerequisites are met, insulating the attic will allow you to turn it into an excellent living space.

Let's start with the fact that the roof configuration is far from the shape of a classic cube. The insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces. And since we are considering insulating the attic from the inside, it is impossible not to take into account the complexity of installing soft and flexible rolled materials.
Let us remember that the vast majority of the area of the upper fence is roof structure with a rafter system. Its coating is made of extremely light materials with high waterproofing qualities, but also with considerable thermal conductivity. Wooden sheathing elements truss structure laid with gaps that do not form a thermal barrier.

Let's take into account that the attic floor has not only a roof surface, but also at least two gables and a valley. Leaving them without insulation or poorly insulating them means reducing all efforts to zero.
Let's not forget that roofing material that does not allow atmospheric moisture to pass through also prevents the escape of fumes that are natural for a bathhouse and not only for it.
We will ensure the safe use of living space by insulating the attic roof with materials with the environmental and hygienic characteristics required for home improvement.

Summarizing the above criteria, we will create a unique formula of the requirements that the thermal insulation system being constructed must meet. According to the tasks assigned to the insulation, we will select the material and find out all the technological nuances. For efficient work thermal insulation is necessary to:

the insulation layer completely covered the internal surfaces without “gaps” in a kind of carpet, so that there were no weak points in the thermal insulation system in the form of an unprotected ridge and pediments not covered with insulation;
the insulating material, resisting the attacks of a cold atmospheric front from the outside and a warm, humid front from the inside, was protected from condensation formed as a result of their confrontation;
moisture did not accumulate on the outer surface of the heat-insulating layer, which was not allowed out by the waterproofing roofing covering so that excess moisture is removed through the ventilation ducts;
lightweight roofing insulation was equipped with wind protection, preventing heat from blowing out of the attic on windy days;
the material is suitable in terms of technical, technological and sanitary-hygienic parameters.

The listed requirements are a detailed answer to the question “how to properly insulate an attic.” If the thermal insulation system meets all conditions, then it will serve for a long time and work efficiently.

Choosing the right insulation

From a technological point of view, slabs are best suited for creating a thermal insulation system from the inside. Using a material that holds its shape, it is easier, faster and more convenient to insulate the attic with your own hands with a minimum number of additional fixing devices. For their correct installation longitudinal bars with dimensions allowing for a ventilation gap are nailed to the rafters. The external plane of the bars must coincide with the external plane of the elements of the rafter system, the internal plane of the heat-insulating material must coincide with the internal plane of the rafters.

Note. If the capacity of the selected insulation is greater than the width of the rafters, an additional beam will have to be nailed or screwed to each of the elements of the rafter system. Wooden additions must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

In any case, both with sufficient and insufficient width of the rafters, the ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing material must be left.

Indicators of the thermal properties of the material determine the climatic characteristics of the region. The collection of building regulations numbered 02/23/2003 will help you find them out. According to the indicator specified in SNiP, the material must be selected.

Styrofoam - budget material and a convenient way of insulation. Lightweight slabs will not be difficult to install; the thermal insulation system will not significantly increase the weight of the roof. However, the weak ability to conduct steam and its attractiveness as a tasty dish for mice make us think about whether it is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam.
Mineral wool is also a convenient and democratic option. The slabs, cut to a size a couple of centimeters larger than the gap between the rafters, are easy to install. Before installation, the insulation element must be slightly compressed and placed in the required location. Having straightened out, the elastic mineral wool will “sit” firmly in its nest. Glass wool can be used as an almost equivalent alternative.

Expanded polystyrene is usually laid on top of the rafter system, forming a ventilation gap by installing a counter batten between the insulation boards and the roofing. For insulation roofing system it will not fit from the inside, but can be used to insulate gables.
Polyurethane foam - easily applied to surfaces of any complexity by spraying. A contractor with a portable installation that supplies foamed insulating material under pressure can work on planes with any slope. Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam will create a monolithic layer without the slightest gaps. In addition, there will be no need for a vapor barrier layer to protect the interior from condensation.
Ecowool is a heat insulator from the category of sprayed materials. Its properties are similar to wood; it contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulating layer and the wood in contact with it. Just like the previous analogue, it creates a continuous cover that does not sag during many years of use. To insulate with ecowool, it will be necessary to mount a false ceiling and install a sheathing to attach a vapor barrier material to it.
Foil materials that work not only as insulation, but also as a mirror reflector of heat tending to escape. In order for the foil heat insulator to perform its job perfectly, during installation you need to unfold it with the aluminum layer inside the room and leave a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

The list is quite sufficient so that there is something to focus on, but the most popular materials for insulation from the inside are mineral wool. Spraying with polyurethane foam is popular, but not available to everyone due to the lack of equipment, which, however, can be rented for a while in construction organization. All that remains is to figure out how to insulate the attic with your own hands and get excellent results.

What should a proper constructive pie look like?

Exaggeratedly, the thermal insulation system represents the following constructive pie, if you start listing the layers from the side of the space being developed:

Cladding made of plasterboard slabs.
Vapor barrier layer, preferably a membrane type option. It is a continuous shell created from strips of rolled material laid with a 10-centimeter overlap. The canvases are secured at horizontal and vertical joints with special adhesive tape.
A sheathing that performs three functions. The slats attached across the rafters hold the insulation, serve as the basis for fixing the vapor barrier and form a ventilation space, which is especially necessary when using foil material.
Insulation laid in one or several layers depending on the thermal effect created. When insulating the attic from the room side, it is mounted between the rafters.
A waterproofing layer that protects the insulation from getting wet, which results in a decrease in thermal properties.

Note. Builders who thoroughly know how to insulate an attic strongly advise leaving a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation material and the waterproofing. According to technological standards, its absence is considered a grave mistake.

Another counter-lattice that creates a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Ventilation in this case is necessary to remove moisture accumulating on the waterproofing membrane. To remove moisture, holes are provided at the base of the slopes and in the valley area. The width of the gap for ventilation is determined by the roofing material. If the roof is covered with tiles, slate, corrugated sheeting or corrugated ondulin, it is enough to leave 25 mm, if flat material without profile relief you need to leave 50 mm.
Windproof vapor barrier equipping the ventilation space. It is needed to retain heat in the event of active ventilation in the ventilation gap. It is laid above the rafter legs, secured with slats, on top of which the roofing covering is mounted.

By insulating the attic with your own hands, observing all the details, the owner of a bathhouse with an attic will provide himself with a comfortable living space, eliminating the need to build on summer cottage house. To install an attic roof for housing, you do not need to obtain permits or seek the consent of neighbors. But the benefits and economic effect are obvious.

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