Caring for grapes in summer: what to do in June, July and August. How to care for grapes in summer to get a good harvest? Operations with grapes in June

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Grapes in January

Prepare organic fertilizers (humus, compost, wood ash) and purchase mineral fertilizers (Kemira, Master, Novofert, Plantafol, etc.). Also in the next season you will need protection against diseases and pests (fungicides, acaricides and insecticides).

Check the condition from time to time planting material. When the root system of the seedlings dries out, moisten them; if, on the contrary, they are too wet, you need to open them slightly for ventilation.

If the weather is warm and sunny, you can prune uncovered grape varieties.

During these months, you can check the condition of the shelter of the grape bushes.

If snow falls, you can throw it on the bushes.

Inspect the trellises. If they are faulty, have them repaired. It is also worth clearing the wire from any remaining vines.

Inspect the vineyard tools for serviceability. If necessary, purchase a new one or one that is missing.

Grapes in February

Continue the unfinished work to prepare for the new season in the vineyard, taking into account all the lessons from the previous year.

IN room conditions You can already start growing green seedlings (from cuttings).

From time to time check the condition of planting material in storage. The root system of seedlings should not be overdried or waterlogged.

You can also prune uncovered varieties.

Purchase the fertilizers you will need for planting grapes in the spring: superphosphate and potash fertilizers.

Purchase in advance sufficient quantities of pest and disease protection products. They should be purchased from reputable stores so that you can be sure of their quality. From mildew, oidium and anthracnose: “Quad-rice”, “Cabriotop”, “Horus”, “Strobe”, “Flint”, from oidium: “Topaz”, “Tilt 250”, “Vectra”, from tick: “Neoron” ", "Omite", "Tiovit Jet", from thrips: "Nurel D", "Fastak", for eradicating sprays against all diseases and pests "Dnok", "Nitrafen".

Grapes in March

It is advisable to finish pruning uncovered grape varieties before the beginning of March or in the first week, in order to avoid spring weeping of the vines.

Inspect the trellises for serviceability and free them from garters and remnants of vines, if this has not been done previously.

Purchase seedlings of the desired varieties in advance so as not to look for them in April - May, when it is already necessary to plant.

Check the availability of the necessary mineral and organic fertilizers, both for planting and for feeding grapes throughout the year.

It is also necessary to purchase in advance the missing means of protection against pests and diseases for the entire season, while there is still time and there is little work in the garden.

Decide on the place where you will plant the grapes. This should be a well-lit area.

Prepare supports and wire for installing the trellis. You will need it for tying grapes.

Grapes in April

Open the bushes at the beginning of the month, as soon as the soil dries out and if cold temperatures of -10 °C are not expected for the next week. This applies to coverings with earth on chernozems and loams. The cover with peat, sawdust or pine needles is removed until the eyes swell.

At the beginning of April, add organic matter and mineral fertilizers to the grooves from which the soil was taken to cover the bushes and cover them with soil.

You can make liquid fertilizing, combining it with moisture-recharging watering. And, without untying, attach the bunches of vines vertically or obliquely to the trellis. Clean them from soil and plant debris with a brush if you plan to eradicate diseases and pests (if the bushes are severely damaged).

Carry out eradicative spraying of bushes against diseases and pests if they were severely affected last year. Use Nitrafen at the rate of 200-300 g of paste per 10 liters of water or Dnok. Treatment is carried out at a temperature of about +4-5 °C

After opening, the bushes may be covered with a white coating of mold. After a couple of hours, after airing, the plaque will disappear.

In the second half of the month, when the likelihood of frost decreases and always before the buds swell, make a dry garter. Tie the sleeves obliquely, and all the fruit shoots - horizontally to the first wire of the trellis, while the ends need to be slightly bent downward in an arc. In a correctly formed bush, the fruit shoots evenly fill the first wire, without intersecting or overlapping one another.

In mid-April, you can begin to plant woody grape seedlings.

Grapes in May

Start green operations early. The first cutting of excess shoots is carried out after the buds open. Remove unnecessary swollen buds on perennial parts of the bush. Also remove doubles and tees on the fruit shoots, leaving the most developed ones. Perform the next cutting of shoots when they reach a length of 10-15 cm.

Carry out the third cutting when the shoots reach a length of 35-40 cm. In this way, the load of the bushes with shoots and inflorescences is finally established.

Remove green shoots on the sleeves, as well as excess shoots on the underground part of the bush.

When 4-5 leaves form, treat the bushes against pests and diseases with fungicides. If there is no oidum, anthracnose, black spot and they were not rampant last year, treatment in the northern regions can be skipped.

If a grape mite appears, treat the bushes before flowering (at the stage of 9-12 leaves) with one of the acaricides.

Make the first garter of green shoots when they outgrow the wire by 15-20 cm.

10-12 days before the grapes bloom (at the end of the month), apply a second liquid feeding.

Remove shoots from growing shoots.

Remove excess upper inflorescences (2,3,4th) to regulate the load on the bush, and leave the lower ones when they just begin to differ.

At the end of May, finish planting annual woody seedlings, and when the threat of spring frosts has passed, plant green vegetative plants in pre-prepared holes.

Grapes in June

Continue planting young vegetative seedlings

Pinch out the growing points on the grapes (before they bloom) by 5-10 cm on vigorous shoots. This is necessary for better pollination of plants.

Before flowering, you can apply foliar fertilizing with Plan-tafol NPK (10:54:10, plus microelements, flowering and budding) at the rate of 25-50 g per 10 liters of water.

Before flowering, treat the grapes with fungicides. This is due to the fact that during the period of flowering and setting berries, diseases and pests pose the greatest danger to grapes. But at this time, pesticide treatment is undesirable to avoid burns. And just during flowering in the northern regions, mildew and oidium appear.

As they grow, tie the shoots to the trellis.

Carry out pinching regularly. After flowering, you can apply foliar fertilizing with Planta-Folom (ovary, 0:25:50).

Normalize the harvest by removing excess bunches.

In case of overloading, first of all, clusters are removed on shoots where there are two of them (remove the top one - it is smaller), on replacement shoots, as well as on underdeveloped, damaged shoots with a small number of leaves above the bunch.

As soon as the berries reach the size of a pea, carry out a second spraying with fungicides: “Ridomil Gold” + “Topaz”.

At the end of the month (during the pea growing period), feed the bushes with liquid. Take care of young plants planted on permanent place. Water, fertilize and protect against diseases.

Grapes in July

During this period, it is important to protect grapes from fungal diseases. Treatment is carried out in hot, dry weather 20 days after the previous one. Using systemic drugs, pay more attention to oidium. In this case, the drug "Flint" is more effective. In rainy weather, treatment is done after 15 days, using “Quadris”. It works well against mildew and at the same time protects against oidium.

Feed the grape bushes in early July, while the berries are pouring, with preparations containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium or “Master” (20:20:20,18:18:18) at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters.

For a quick effect, you can apply foliar feeding with Plantafol (20:20:20), Aquarin or Novofert.

It is also necessary to feed young seedlings planted in a permanent place with mineral fertilizers at the rate of 25 g per 10 liters of water.

Carry out green operations regularly: tying growing shoots to the trellis and removing shoots.

At the end of the month, early grape varieties begin to ripen: “Russian Early”, “Korinka Russian”, “Super Extra”.

Grapes in August

Perform green operations: remove the shoots, tie the growing shoots to the trellis.

Feed the fruiting bushes at the beginning of berry ripening with mineral fertilizers without nitrogen.

In early August, feed young bushes planted in a permanent place with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, without nitrogen.

If it is clear that the plants do not have enough moisture (the leaves lose turgor and wither in the middle of the day), conduct moderate watering while simultaneously applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (5-10 g per 10 liters of water). Stop watering in the second half of the month.

In the middle of the month or at the end, mint.

If the vine ripens poorly, do it outside root dressings phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: monopotassium phosphate or Plantafol (0:25:50). Treat once every 7-10 days upper tier leaves.

Make the final treatment of grapes against mildew, oidium on very early and early terms ripening (August 5-10), using "Quadris".

At the first symptoms of gray rot, carry out preventive spraying with potassium permanganate (5-7 g per 10 liters of water).

From mid-August, early grape varieties are already ripening.

Grapes in September

On early-medium ripening varieties, carry out the same work as in August on very early and early varieties.

If an overload of the harvest of a particular bush is detected, it is necessary to reduce the number of bunches on this grape. It must be remembered that, first of all, nutrients are used to ripen the crop, and only after that to ripen the vine.

Swipe foliar feeding grape bushes with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, as in August.

If foci of oidium appear on bushes without a harvest, treat with Flint or Strobi. Bushes with harvest are treated with colloidal sulfur or potassium permanganate.

In the first ten days of September, early-medium grape varieties begin to ripen: “Nadezhda Azos”, “Talisman”, etc.

Grapes in October

At the beginning of the month, plant woody grape seedlings. Grapes planted in October take root well. Then the bushes must be covered with peat or pine needles. Dig up seedlings from the school.

Put them in storage or plant them in a permanent place. Leave plants without good shelter it is impossible, because there is a high probability of them freezing. Covering a schoolchild is a labor-intensive task. The same applies to seedlings from cuttings.

The harvest must be completed.

If in the previous year the bushes were heavily damaged by pests and diseases, carry out eradication treatment (see April).

After frost and foliage fall, prune the vines after 2 weeks.

If necessary, prepare cuttings of the varieties you are interested in.

After pruning the covering varieties of vines, remove them from the supports, tie them in an inclined state into bunches and place them in the grooves.

If the summer and autumn were dry, carry out moisture-charging irrigation (50-60 liters of water per bush).

Burn all plant debris, leaves, pruned vines. They are not used for compost to avoid the spread of infection.

To reduce infection, dig up the soil between the rows.

Grapes in November

It is necessary to complete all work to prepare the grapes for wintering.

In the first ten days of the month, complete pruning of covering grape varieties (see pages 30-31).

Also, before the soil freezes, it is necessary to finish covering the bushes for the winter if soil is used. Where another covering material is used (peat, sawdust, pine needles), having previously made grooves along the trellis, you can wait with the covering: a well-ripened vine can be hardened at temperatures down to -7-10 ° C.

Do the last moisture-charging watering of this season, if you did not do it at the end of October. Keep in mind that dehydrated grapes survive winter worse.

Clear the trellises of any remaining vines and remove the garters.

Organize all the tools you used to work in the vineyard and store them away until next season.

Grapes in December

Prepare organic fertilizers (humus, compost, wood ash) and purchase mineral fertilizers (Kemira, Master, Novofert, Plantafol, etc.).

Also, next season you will need protection against diseases and pests. From mildew, oidium and anthracnose: “Quadris”, “Cab-ryotope”, “Horus”, “Strobe”, “Flint”, from oidium: “Topaz”, “Tilt 250”, “Vectra”, from tick: “Neoron” ", "Omite", "Tiovit Jet", for thrips: "Nurel D", "Fastak", for eradicating sprays against all diseases and pests: "Dnok", "Nitrafen".

Periodically check the condition of the planting material. When the root system of the seedlings dries out, moisten it; if, on the contrary, it is too wet, you need to open it slightly for ventilation.

In warm and sunny weather, you can still prune uncovered grape varieties.

Inspect the trellises for damage. It is also worth clearing the wire from any remaining vines.

Grapes are a “long-lasting” crop, capable of growing in one place for decades and regularly bearing berries. A young seedling should not be rushed into bearing fruit; in the first two to three years it is necessary to grow a powerful bush. In the future, care is provided in such a way that the optimal load of the crop will not deplete the plant.

Rules for caring for grapes in the FIRST season

This young grape bush is clearly thickened.

In the first year after planting grapes, it is necessary to grow 1–2 strong vines on the bush(preferably one and a half to two meters long).

It is especially important that before the first frost at least part of each vine ripens, at least 3-4 buds.

It is desirable that the regrown branches at the base are no thinner than a pencil (but this is very individual by variety and region).

Garter

We leave two strong shoots and tie them almost vertically.

When the threat of frost has passed in spring or early summer (depending on the region), the growing young branches are tied up (using twine or thin wire) for vertical growth. Upward direction activates regrowth.

In the first year it is not necessary to build a powerful trellis, but a garter is required.

At the end of summer, the regrown vines are removed from the support (garters) and placed on the ground. Horizontal wood and bark ripen better(turn brown).

Operations on the vine

We remove or pinch off excess stepsons.

It should be remembered that (which is not done for fruit trees).

If, with the beginning of the growing season, several shoots begin to develop, then leave 2 most active (from different sides of the rooted cuttings). Sometimes they save 3 vines(one is in reserve, just in case; in the fall, the “third extra” shoot is cut out).

During the summer, lateral branches (stepchildren) may appear on growing branches. They are removed entirely or pinched off above the third leaf.

At the end of summer they clean up lower leaves for better lighting and ripening of the vines. For the same purpose, the apical growth points are pinched, but the upper stepson is left (so that the growth point is preserved). The remaining stepsons continue to be removed.

Northern regions

In northern regions, shoots may ripen poorly and slowly: the bases remain greenish. In this case, a temporary shelter like a greenhouse is built over the bush: agrofibre and film are thrown over the arcs (leaving vents for ventilation). Warmth promotes ripening.

Before doing the final autumn pruning. It is carried out taking into account the strength of the first-year shoots and the choice of the future shape of the bush. If a small piece has matured (no more than 3-4 eyes), it is left for the winter.

Types of formations

In the case when more buds have matured, pruning of each vine (one or two) is carried out with a focus on the future formation:

for fan(mainly in sheltering areas) – leave 2–4 buds;

for long sleeves (one or two) - make a long pruning, keeping 8–10 mature eyes on each shoot;

for standard – one (upper) mature vine is left longer (8–10 buds), the second (lower) is greatly shortened (leaving 3–4 buds). The second branch is a reserve one (if the trunk dies). In the case when only one shoot appeared in the first summer, it is too early to form a standard; then they cut it short - by 3-4 eyes, in order to grow 2 strong vines in the next season.

Sometimes over the summer 5–6 equally weak branches (“broom”) are formed. Leave 2 lower shoots and work with them, and cut out the rest entirely. If flower brushes pop out, be sure to pluck them out in the first year.

Experienced winegrowers advise not to carry out full pruning in the fall in the first 2-3 years of a bush’s life, but to limit themselves to removing the unripe part. It is believed that so young plant will overwinter better.

The final shaping is done next spring, after swelling of the kidneys, - when the vine no longer begins to “cry” from wounds, and the awakened buds signal the degree of preservation after winter.

Watering and fertilizing

On loam soils, and even in rainy summers, young grapes are not watered. On sandy soils and in the dry season, carry out at least 2-3 waterings (30 liters each), always with warm water.

If landing pit was well seasoned, and the seedling is actively developing, fertilizing in the first summer does not need to be done at all. The famous Altai winegrower R.F. Sharov advised in the northern zones to keep grapes “in a black body”, not allowing them to fatten, so that the vines ripen better.

Such “lazy” agricultural technology - without fertilizers and watering - can be used on unpretentious varieties(The riddle of Sharov, BCZ, Muscat Katunsky, etc.).

In case of weak growth in the first half of the growing season, give complex root feeding with a predominance of nitrogen and phosphorus. To do this, carry out 1–2 fertilizing irrigations (in May-June): pour with a bucket hot water 40 g of superphosphate, after 24 hours add 30 g of urea, 10 g of potassium sulfate. A bucket of the mixture is poured under each bush. Instead, you can take organic matter: infusion of grass or manure (1:10), bird droppings (1:30).

In the second half of the growing season, only potassium and phosphorus are given: 1–2 times (July - August). For 10 liters of water take 40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate. Can be replaced with wood ash. The event is aimed at aging wood.

Liquid fertilizing is carried out the next day after watering or rain.

When arranging a capital vineyard, it is recommended to install drainage pipes to the depth of the roots. Watering and liquid fertilizing are carried out through them.

Grapes are responsive to foliar feeding with microelements (2-3 per summer).

In the fall, shortly before covering the bushes, a bucket is brought into the root zone humus or compost(with a little digging). Pre-winter water-recharging irrigation is carried out.

Treatments for diseases and pests

Scheme for treating grapes with fungicides.

In the northern viticulture zones, pests and diseases are practically not observed. Outbreaks of oidium () occur during wet, rainy seasons. Because of this disease, the vines ripen poorly and winter worse.

For the prevention and control of oidium, the following is used:

water infusion cow dung(1:10) – kept for 3 days, filtered, sprayed; feeding and protection is obtained (in June);

solution of potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 liters of water);

50 g soda ash and 30 g of laundry soap per bucket of water;

fungicides (4–6 applications per season - according to instructions), Topaz, Score.

Before sheltering for the winter, spray iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water).

Treatment of grapevines with a solution of iron sulfate.

Similar fungicides are also effective against, more typical for the southern zones. Also used Oxychom, Bordeaux mixture .

Insect pests are controlled when they appear on the bush using insecticides. The plants are not bearing fruit yet, so there are no restrictions on processing time.

Season two and three

The trellises are being installed (if this has not been done previously). The shoots are no longer tied vertically, but tilted to the side.

In the second and third year the lives of a grape bush complete its formation.

The main work is carried out during autumn pruning (or it is transferred to spring, after the buds swell). In the summer, adjustments are made. In the second season, sleeves are usually laid (short ones - in fan forming), and by the end of the third season the fruit links are already ready.

If the bush is weak , That preparatory work occupy not 3, but 4 seasons.

It is recommended to prevent fruiting for now (pluck out the clusters). Sometimes they leave a “signal” - a test bunch - to ensure varietal compliance. It must be removed as early as possible (immediately after ripening) so as not to deplete the plant.

Overgrowth shoots are removed during the season , growing from the base of the bush, extra top branches (especially fattening ones, too thick).

The vineyard is watered as before, but when feeding, the bush is now given 2 buckets of fertilizer solution instead of one.

In the spring, after removing the coverings, the dormant vine is sprayed with iron sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) against fungal diseases.

Caring for fruiting grapes

In the fourth or fifth year, the vineyard enters the time of full fruiting.

Industrial plantations have been productive for a quarter of a century. In a private garden, with an enthusiastic winegrower, this berry grower is able to work fully for much longer. The sleeves gradually age, and after 7–12 years (depending on the variety), they are gradually replaced by new ones from coppice and top shoots.

Basic rules for getting a good harvest

When the shoots reach the top wire, I cut them just above the trellis to stop apical growth.

How to care for grapes throughout the season - spring, summer and autumn, so that there is good harvest? Let's look at the basic techniques of agricultural technology.

Formation

Can't be neglected autumn pruning . Most of the bush is removed: the entire unripe part, all fruit-bearing shoots, unnecessary shoots and tops, wild shoots on grafted plants. All that remains is the perennial base of the bush and fruit links (future vines for fruiting and replacement branches).

In strong bushes you can gradually increase number of sleeves (with fan formation), lengthen sleeves(with long sleeves), create reinforced fruit links(each with one replacement knot and two fruit arrows).

It is important to learn how to calculate the optimal bush load . This skill comes with experience: the plant itself signals whether it is depleted or overly fattened. In addition, knowledge about the characteristics of a particular variety is required. A novice winegrower can be guided by average indicators: the vine is pruned by 8 buds in the fall for fruiting; the total number of eyes in the bush in the spring (counting replacement knots) is approximately 50 pieces.

Summer operations

Pinching of grapes is carried out before or at the very beginning of flowering.

In summer there are various green operations:

stepsoning(the side branches are pinched above the third leaf, the second-order stepsons are completely removed);

breaking out “doubles” and “tees”- extra shoots growing from spare buds on the eye;

thinning of inflorescences that are underdeveloped or overload the bush;

cutting out unnecessary growth and tops;

pinching the top fruitful shoot 3 days before flowering - for some varieties (prone to peas and female in type);

coinage fruitful shoots: when active growth stops, in the second half of the season, cut off the tops, leaving a dozen leaves above the fruit clusters (this activity is not recommended on weak bushes, as well as in the northern viticulture zones);

removing old, shading foliage 2–3 weeks before harvest ripening.

Watering

Autumn moisture-recharging irrigation is required.

Early varieties are watered abundantly twice a season (June, July), mid-season varieties - three times (early June, July, early August), late varieties - four times (mid-May, June, July, mid-August).

Feeding

Feeding schedule.

Once every three years in the fall (shortly before sheltering), several buckets of rotted humus or compost are brought under the bush and dug up.

Are given root dressings : the first (nitrogen) in the spring, the second (complex) - immediately after flowering, the third (phosphorus-potassium plus magnesium) - at the end of July, the fourth - potassium magnesia (in the autumn in the root zone).

Effective foliar feeding : before flowering - boron and zinc, at the beginning of berry filling - potassium magnesia and boron, at the end of August - zinc.

Overfeeding grapes is more dangerous than underfeeding (especially in cover crop areas).

Immune stimulants (Epin Extra, Zircon, Humates, HB-1, etc.) when used correctly, support the grape plant, especially under unfavorable weather conditions.

Conclusion

It should be remembered that unsuccessful wintering, attacks by diseases and pests significantly reduce grape yields. It is necessary to ensure successful wintering of the bush and timely protection from pathogens.

Preface

For lovers of homemade grape juice or wine, caring for the vine is a priority all season long. And if your scheme has not yet been worked out, we offer a plan from experienced gardeners.

Features of grape care

It is very difficult to find a person who would remain indifferent at the sight of these berries, but you should not think that it is enough to just choose good variety. Of course this is very important step, however, it is only half the battle. To achieve excellent result It is also necessary to properly monitor the plant in spring and autumn, and even in the summer heat. As practice shows, the more refined you buy, the more you will have to take care of it.

Like any plant, grape bushes need regular feeding. Very often, complex mineral fertilizers are used for these purposes, but in this case, be sure to pay attention to their composition. Absolutely all components of these fertilizers must be water-soluble, otherwise root system the bush simply cannot absorb necessary elements, and as a result it turns out that all material costs were wasted, and the condition of the bush may worsen due to a lack of minerals.

Besides, summer care grapes also require almost daily visual monitoring in order to detect them in time fungal diseases. If any are suddenly discovered, then the damaged leaf must be trimmed, and it is best to burn it or throw it away, but not on the territory of the garden plot, otherwise such diseases can harm other representatives of the flora. How to deal with such a disease will be discussed a little below.

Video: Caring for young grapes

Caring for one-year-old grapes

The first year of life is very important in the development of the plant and it is necessary to ensure that all energy, as well as nutrients, are directed in the right direction, namely to the growth of the bush. Therefore, all the stepsons that appear should be plucked out, leaving only stumps no more than one centimeter. The antennae, double and tee are also removed. And of course, do not forget to prevent fungal diseases, especially for unstable varieties.

In addition, caring for young one-year-old grapes in the summer also involves carrying out an operation such as chasing, which is the removal of the unripe top of the vine. After this pruning is done, only a shoot with a maximum of 15 leaves remains, which is tied to a peg, making sure that it is not crushed. Watering should be done as soon as the soil dries, but usually no more than once a week, and no more than 10 liters of water are used each time.

Video: Pruning grapes

Garter and pruning - a scientific approach

What about already formed plants, they need no less care, and maybe even more. There are many aspects to this issue, it is difficult to remember everything at once, so we will also diversify the perceived material with a video tutorial. So, from the very beginning of summer or, in general, even in the spring, before the leaves have blossomed, the vine should be tied up, then its various parts will undergo repeated pruning. The main thing is that the cold weather has already passed, so the optimal period for this operation largely depends on the climate of the region in which you live. So we tie up last year’s vine, distributing its direction of growth, and wait for the buds to bloom. As soon as this happens, it will immediately become clear which branch overwintered well and where it froze. Dry and poorly developing shoots should be removed.

Remember, any grape needs care in the summer, this includes pruning, but this should not be neglected under any circumstances, otherwise it will simply turn into wild grapes. All weak, dry, and extra shoots break off at the base. The vine grows incredibly quickly, so it needs repeated staking throughout the season, otherwise it may break off under the weight of the brush. In addition, operations such as pinching and normalizing inflorescences cannot be ignored. The first allows the sun's rays to easily penetrate the grapes, and the second provides high quality harvest.

The tops of shoots longer than 2.5 meters are shortened. The same thing happens with fruit sprouts, but just keep in mind that pinching can be done after the clusters have already set. In addition, pruning should target tendrils, greenery, shading clusters and dead foliage. Normalization, in turn, is carried out by removing the inflorescences. Depending on the variety, either inflorescences of the first order, or third, or fourth can be removed. It all depends on the characteristics of the plant. But that’s not all, in order for the berries to fill well and ripen on time, you need to thin out the clusters that have already formed; pruning them will help. The permissible amount of them on a bush also depends on the variety and age of the grapes. You can watch the video in our article to see how to approach these operations correctly.

Summer care consists of proper organization of pruning, fertilizing, gartering and disease prevention.

Video: How to care for grapes in summer

Feeding and watering - we will ensure timely nutrition

Pruning is a very important stage of care, but underestimating the role of nutrients will also be a huge mistake. It is especially important to add a sufficient amount of them during the formation of clusters and ripening of berries. Spraying the bushes with an infusion of wood ash, as well as potassium monophosphate, is very useful. In addition, such fertilizer will have the most favorable effect on taste. Drought can also be disastrous, so summer season It is necessary to carry out several irrigations, but only by following the technology can you count on a good result.

So, the amount of watering largely depends on the type of shrub. So, for example, for early varieties Similar care for grapes is carried out in June and July, i.e. only 2 times per season, but if the plant has an average ripening period, then a third irrigation is added in early August. Well, late grapes, accordingly, are watered 4 times per season. It is worth noting that this bush experiences the greatest need for moisture at the time of bud setting, after flowering and during the ripening period of the berries. Under no circumstances should this be done while pollination continues and after the fruits are ripe. Water consumption is approximately 50 liters per square. Also, to preserve moisture for a long time, immediately after watering you should fill the grooves with loose soil.

Video: Proper fertilizer and feeding of grapes

Fungal diseases - coping with less losses

The inside of the grape leaves should have a smooth greenish surface. Availability different spots, tubercles or plaque is a very alarming sign that a disease has attacked, and such a specimen requires immediate pruning. In addition, do not delay the treatment of the remaining plant. If the bush is in the fruiting stage, then a solution of soda or potassium permanganate will do the job perfectly. If you have young plants, or if the entire crop has been harvested, then it is better to use special chemicals; they will eliminate all diseases without sparing.

To understand what kind of care grapes need in summer when various diseases, you should understand the latter. The most common fungus is mildew, which appears as a grayish, web-like coating on the underside of the leaf. The most favorable period for it is June and July. And you can fight it with copper-based solutions. Another dangerous disease is oidium. In this case, peculiar dents and a grayish coating appear on the surface of the leaf, but if this fungus touches the inflorescences, they die, and the infected berries simply dry out. It is best to carry out preventive procedures on time, for example, at least 56 days before harvest, sprinkle the green parts of the bush with sulfur powder. Highly effective fungicides can also combat these diseases. And here's to biological methods control includes spraying the vineyard with infusions of hay dust or mullein.

If brown spots with a dark white edge appear on the leaves and shoots, then we're talking about anthracose. It poses a huge danger, since as a result, ulcers appear on the affected areas of the plant, which contribute to the breakage of the shoots and they simply dry out. To combat the symptoms of this disease, copper-containing drugs have also been used. Naturally, the list of diseases does not end there, but the most popular types of them have been presented here; watch the video for methods of combating them.

Video: Dangerous grape diseases

Many people try to grow grapes, but not everyone succeeds. The crop must be carefully looked after - and at any time of the year. Since I have enough experience in the grape business, in this article I will share the features of spring and summer vine care. Main - spring care, in the summer there is much less work. But first things first.

During the winter, the bushes weaken and their immunity decreases. As a result of such changes, the vine becomes vulnerable to diseases, infections, fungi, and pests. Therefore, work to prevent negative factors begins as soon as the snow melts. After the end of winter, the following activities must be carried out:

remove cover;
conduct a thorough inspection of the vine;
perform pruning;
carry out treatment against pests and diseases;
feed.

Removing cover

This is the first stage spring work. In different climatic zones remove cover in different time, in the south, some varieties do not cover at all. In general, it is necessary to remove the cover from the vine only after a consistently warm temperature has established outside.

It is clear that the further north the vineyard is located, the later the harvest time:

in the southern regions it is possible already in April;
V middle lane- in the beginning of May;
in the north, in Siberia and the Urals - at the end of May and beginning of June.

They open the vine not abruptly, but gradually. This allows the plant to smoothly adapt to temperature and conditions. external environment. In any case, the vine will receive stress, but with a smooth opening, this stress is minimized.

After the final removal of the cover and drying of the vine, it is tied to a support, trellis.

Inspection

Examine the grapes carefully. It is necessary to identify all areas of the vine that were damaged during the winter: frozen, rotten, moldy, broken, etc. If the vine is rotten, dried out, or otherwise damaged, it is pruned back to healthy tissue. All cuts must be treated with garden varnish or another substance.

Make sure there are no suspicious growths that could indicate a developing bacterial cancer. Repair all damage and suspicious areas. After pruning, burn the biomaterial to avoid spreading the infection.

Damaged bushes are watered and fertilized in a reduced manner - until they recover. When the inspection is completed, it is recommended to carry out preventive spraying of the grapes with copper sulfate. This measure will protect the vine from return frosts, as well as from fungal diseases.

Spring pruning

Since the crop bears fruit only on young shoots, old branches must be disposed of regularly. Typically, spring pruning is carried out quite radically - sometimes shoots are cut to 90% of their length. This pruning rejuvenates the bush and allows for the rapid growth of young branches.

Annual shoots are trimmed to the ground, even small stumps are excluded. If the branches are small in thickness, you can cut them with pruning shears; for thick ones, you need to take a saw. The shoots are cut strictly perpendicular to the main trunk so that the cutting area is as small as possible. Look video on the topic spring pruning grapes

Important: if the grapes are a non-covering variety, prune them before the sap begins to flow. If you delay, significant damage to the crop can be caused. When a vine that has already woken up is pruned, the sap at the cut site flows so actively that it is sometimes impossible to stop it.

Protection from pests and diseases

This is also a necessary spring measure, which must be carried out every year after removing the cover from the grapes. Preventative treatment held In spring and summer in several stages:

spraying with iron sulfate immediately after removing the covers (300-500 g per bucket of water);
drugs "Actellik", "Poliram" or "Bi58 new" at the moment of swelling and opening flower buds- but only if the bush was sick last season;
with the preparations “Horus”, “Topaz”, “Bi58 new” - when 3-5 leaves appear on the branches.

Great for spring treatment grape universal drug Nitrofen. It is very effective, however, it should be used only before the buds open. Application in subsequent periods may negatively affect the taste and quality of the fruit and increase the content of pesticides in them.

Iron sulfate, diluted according to the instructions, will help cope with leaf chlorosis. Treatment with this drug is carried out until the buds open. By the way, iron sulfate can also protect the kidneys from return frosts.

Watering and fertilizing

When the snow melts in the spring, you don’t have to water the vine at first: the melted precipitation will remove the soil from for a long time remains wet. The first watering is carried out only when there is complete confidence that the period of return frosts has completely passed. About a week before flowering, a second watering is carried out.

Top dressing

For grapes to develop well and bear fruit abundantly, they need a lot nutrients. The composition of the fertilizer must include:

nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus are the main microelements;
copper to improve resistance to wet, cool weather;
boron for fruit sugar content and rapid ripening;
zinc for high yields.

In general, the value of minerals can be briefly expressed in the following list:

nitrogen is necessary for grapes for rapid and active growth of green mass, growth of foliage and shoots;
phosphorus is an essential mineral for abundant fruiting and rapid and uniform ripening of berries;
Potassium is also needed for fruiting;
copper is used as a disinfectant, protection against pests and fungal diseases, the mineral increases the immunity of grapes, the level of their endurance, resistance to diseases and frosts;
zinc is a proven tool for high yields;
Boron makes berries more attractive in appearance, increases their transportability and marketability.

Be sure to combine chemical and mineral fertilizers: no responsible winegrower will feed the vine with “bare chemicals”. As a verified organic fertilizer It is recommended to use manure. This substance has a balanced natural composition, contains a whole complex of minerals, and is easily and completely absorbed by the vine. In addition, manure contains beneficial bacteria that help loosen the soil, moisten it and nourish it.

Also add humus from organic matter: this substance perfectly improves the soil structure, increases its permeability, and enriches it.

Summer care

In the summer, there is much less work with the grapevine - all the most complex and basic stages should be performed in the spring. However, you can’t sit idle in the summer either - if, of course, you want good harvests.

Important stages of summer grape care are watering the vines and loosening the soil in the garden bed. In addition, it is also important to take care of new fruit-bearing shoots, properly feed the plant and protect it from diseases and pests. Also in the summer, pruning and pinching of the tops of young shoots is carried out.

Trimming

The main summer work is aimed at ensuring a good harvest this season:

growth points on young shoots are cut off so that nutrition goes to the ovaries, and not to the growth of young greenery;
pinching is also used to form bushes;
thinning and pruning leaves 2-3 weeks before harvesting.

The latter measure applies to those leaves that shade the clusters.

Top dressing

Nitrogenous fertilizers are not used in summer; the main emphasis is on potassium and phosphorus. The fact is that nitrogen leads to rapid formation of greenery to the detriment of the quantity and quality of fruit ovaries.

At the end of June, a mineral complex is introduced: azophoska or nitroammophoska. But only use water soluble fertilizers, since grapes will not be able to fully absorb dry granules.

From the end of July, foliar fertilizing begins to be used. Dissolve in a bucket of water:

liter of wood ash;
20 grams of sugar;
1.5 g copper;
1 gram of boron.

Foliar feeding is carried out by spraying: spraying should be done on bottom part leaves. It is better to carry out the procedure in the morning or evening, when the sun is not particularly active.

Important: if a spring inspection reveals diseased and weak plants, try to feed them less frequently and less abundantly in the summer. Long-term practice of professional winegrowers confirms that a “hungry” vine recovers faster and copes with diseases.

Protection from diseases

Of course, the main work on disease prevention is carried out in the spring. But in the summer you shouldn’t relax: if there are signs of damage to the foliage by pests or fungi, immediately spray the plant with the solution Bordeaux mixture or suitable drugs;

Strobe;
Quadris;
Topaz and others.

Now you know how to properly care for a vineyard in spring and summer. The main work takes place in the spring, while in the summer there is less hassle, but the bush nevertheless requires attention. Having mastered the basic care requirements, you can easily grow a healthy vine and enjoy the wonderful taste of juicy, large berries.

Annual summer care of grapes is invaluable: if left to the mercy of fate, a vineyard quickly turns into wild thickets, and the quantity and quality of fruits deteriorates sharply. What procedures need to be carried out in the vineyard during the season?

With the appearance of leaves on young shoots, form a hole around each plant so that the trunk begins to harden

In order for the grapes to begin bearing fruit faster and delight you with good harvests in the future, you need to provide the shoots with careful care from the very first year of cultivation. There is no need to carry out standard “green operations”, but special attention should be paid to loosening, weeding and watering.

First of all, you have to loosen the soil compacted during planting around the planted grape shoots and between the rows. As leaves appear on young shoots, form a hole around each plant so that the trunk begins to harden. Of the grown three or four branches in June, leave one, the most powerful one, so that the plant directs all its forces to its growth, then by autumn you will get a well-developed long vine.

Video about caring for grapes in summer

It is not recommended to grow anything unnecessary in the vineyard: tomatoes, beans, onions, etc. garden plants will hinder the growth of grapes.

To develop the root system in deep layers of soil, it is necessary to remove surface roots on the underground part of the trunk. If you do not pay attention to this procedure in the first years, the upper roots will die when the soil freezes, and in the summer the plants will suffer from a lack of moisture. The roots are removed at the end of June and in August, in the morning: a hole 20 cm deep is made around the grape shoot and the upper roots are cut off with pruners or a sharp knife close to the trunk. After the first pruning, the hole is buried until the shoot grows green, and after the second pruning, a hole about 10 cm deep is left.

Watered young grape once a week at the rate of 10 liters per bush. At the same time, you can add fertilizers to the water (superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate). Do not forget to regularly destroy weeds around young plantings and loosen the soil, destroying dense upper layer, formed after rains and irrigation.

Water young grapes once a week at the rate of 10 liters per bush

As experienced winegrowers rightly point out, if the grapes are not pruned, you may not get good bunches. Grape pruning allows you to create the most favorable conditions for plant development and fruit ripening, providing shoots sunlight and fresh air.

Pruning and breaking of grape shoots, thinning foliage, pinching and other procedures necessary for correct formation and increasing grape yields, winegrowers call “green operations.” Let's take a closer look at the main “green operations” that should be carried out during the season.

“Dry garter” is the first procedure with which summer cares for the vineyard begin. Last year's vines, giving them a direction to grow. In the southern regions, gartering can be done at the end of April, until fresh shoots have grown, but in most Russian regions this should be done in the first ten days of June, when the likelihood of frost has subsided.

Pruning grapes allows you to create the most favorable conditions for plant development and fruit ripening

Debris of shoots - during the period of budding, barren branches at the base of the bushes are removed, as well as excess shoots growing from one eye. After tying grape vines All weak and stunted branches are broken off. Then comes the “green garter” - it is carried out several times during the season, when the shoots outgrow another 20 centimeters of wire on the trellis.

Pinching - at the end of June, fruit shoots are shortened on fruiting vines so that more nutrients are supplied to the clusters. To do this, the tops of the sprouts are cut off after the tendrils, leaving five leaves after the second bunch. They also pinch the top of the vine when it reaches a length of 2.5 m, otherwise the vine can stretch up to 6 m, as a result of which the bunches will ripen more slowly and less sugar will accumulate in the berries. Young shoots growing from a replacement knot do not need to be pinched.

Normalization of inflorescences - in grape varieties with small sleeves, inflorescences of the 1st order are removed; in all other varieties, inflorescences of the 3rd and 4th order should be removed. This makes the berries grow larger and sweeter, crack less often and rot less.

Normalization of inflorescences - in grape varieties with small sleeves, inflorescences of the 1st order are removed; in all other varieties, inflorescences of the 3rd and 4th order should be removed

Peeling - greens that are not needed when the grapes are ripening should be reduced. Therefore, from June to August, all the stepsons emerging in the axils of the leaves are plucked out and at the same time all the tendrils are cut out so that the plant directs its energy to the future harvest.

Embossing shoots - in the first half of August, the tops of the shoots are cut off to the first normal leaf (approximately after the 15th leaf). Thanks to embossing, the growth of branches will slow down and the clusters will ripen better.

Thinning leaves - three weeks before harvest, it is recommended to break off the old leaves that grow in the lower part of the bush, as well as those that shade the bunches of berries. This procedure will ensure better ventilation grape bushes, the clusters will receive more sunlight.

After chasing the shoots, stepsons begin to actively appear on the grape bushes

Harvest rationing - since the climate in most of the Russian regions does not allow grapes to fully ripen, domestic winegrowers deliberately sacrifice part of the harvest. On each shoot, leave one or two bunches (preferably the lower, most powerful ones) and cut out small underdeveloped grapes from them. This procedure is carried out in August, while the berries are still very small.

Keep in mind that after chasing the shoots, stepsons begin to actively appear on the grape bushes. Have time to pluck them in time. All of the listed “green operations” are necessary only for adult grape bushes. Up to three years, grapes can grow freely; summer care for them consists of: regular watering with fertilizing and loosening the soil with the destruction of weeds.

Features of caring for grapes in summer

Grapes need to be fed with fertilizers - this is clear to novice gardeners. But when buying complex mineral fertilizers You should pay attention to the fact that all components in them are water-soluble, otherwise the grape roots will not be able to absorb the fertilizer. It is especially important to apply fertilizers during budding and when the grapes ripen. Thus, spraying grapes in August with a solution of potassium monophosphate or an infusion of wood ash will ensure better ripening of the vines and the accumulation of sugars in the berries.

Video about summer grape care

During the summer, take time every day to inspect the grape bushes for pests and dangerous ones. Healthy grape leaves have a smooth underside, greenish in color, without plaque. If you notice yellow spots, characteristic of mildew, or an ash coating (a sign of oidium), immediately treat the entire vineyard with special preparations. Before flowering, you can spray the grapes with various means:

Topaz against oidium;
Ridomil Gold for mildew;
For fruiting bushes it is better to use a solution of potassium permanganate or baking soda;
against spider mite Fufanon helps a lot.

Do not remove all barren shoots: they form the necessary supply of nutrients that will be needed for the development of the bush. On average, it is enough to leave one barren branch for 2-3 fruit-bearing branches.

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