How long does it take for grape cuttings to develop roots? Methods for rooting grape cuttings

Preparation of cuttings grapes

At the end of February - beginning of March, the chibouks prepared in the fall or purchased are removed from storage. Each should be no thinner than a pencil, 25-40 cm long and have from two to four buds. They are disinfected in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate and washed in running water. Cuttings are renewed: below the lower bud by 0.5-2 cm and above the upper bud by 3-4 cm. Type of cut: straight at the bottom and oblique at the top. Soak the cuttings for up to two days in water with the addition of a biostimulant in microdoses (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). The upper cut is covered with garden pitch or paraffin. To speed up the root formation process, furrow the lower node and the bark a little higher and powder it with one of the root formation stimulants. For varieties that are difficult to root, for example, you can lightly rub it into the furrows. Callus is formed just near these grooves, where the cutting is wounded, at the “water-air” boundary and above it.

Pickling grape cuttings

When rooting on a cutting, it is the callus that first appears - the rudiments of the roots, and only then the leaves, but it also happens the other way around. The buds often bloom faster than roots form and die without receiving nutrition. To speed up the formation of callus, kilching is performed: the lower part of the cuttings is placed in a warm environment (24-26 °C), and the upper part in a cooler environment (17-18 °C). If we keep the tops cool and the roots warm, we slow down the leaf opening and speed up the formation of the root system.

You can root cuttings at any time, but they must be rooted before February - March. There are many in various ways rooting, but they all boil down to three main types.

Rooting grape cuttings in water (P.P. Radchevsky method)

Liter jars are filled with 2 cm of water, preferably snow, melt or at least boiled, and 1-10 cuttings are placed in them. You can put a plastic bag on top to retain moisture. Mold should not be allowed to form under the film. The containers are placed on the windowsill above the radiator - it is better if next to the half-open door to the balcony on the south or south-west window. You can separate the window area from the room mirror film(mirror side to the window) for best use sun rays. After 2-3 weeks, shoots will begin to grow, at the same time or a week later - roots. With this method, the shoots can develop earlier than the roots and not die, since they only need water from the jar. But if a shoot comes out of the bud, followed by a second one from the replacement bud, but there are still no roots, then, without sparing, remove the stronger one from the shoot so that the entire supply of nutrients from the tissues of the cutting is not consumed. As soon as the roots appear, move the cuttings into the soil for growing. At the same time, the cutting is placed carefully, without breaking the roots, on its lower stump, and the roots are sprinkled with soil.

Rooting grape cuttings on a cabinet (method of N.L. Puzenko from Volgograd)

Prepare a piece of cotton soft fabric or an old towel, soak it in water and wring it out well. The fabric is spread out, the cuttings are laid on it, wrapping them in turn: first one and immediately wrap it, the next one and wrap it again. Wrap the bottom of the roll over the fabric with film, tie it with twine and place it horizontally in a warm place. For example, on a closet, but with the tops facing the window, or on a refrigerator against the wall. It is important that the tops are in cooler conditions than the bottom. There should be enough light on the cabinet and no more than 25 °C. Monitor the moisture content of the fabric, not allowing it to dry out; regularly spray it with water from a spray bottle when dry. This easy way, its advantage is that root formation will begin first. But you need to remember that the cuttings should only be standard - no thinner than 0.7 cm. In 2-4 weeks, roots will appear, but the buds may not yet awaken. When the root length is 1-2 mm, the cuttings must be urgently planted in the ground or in prepared soil mixture in containers.

Rooting grape cuttingsin the filler

You can use a mixture of sawdust with sand or with. The sawdust must be prepared in advance - pour boiling water over it, cool, and squeeze out. Then a layer is poured into the container, the cutting is installed, and always with the bud facing up. Then add another layer of the mixture, cover the container with the cutting with transparent film and place it on the window above the radiator. The bud should protrude slightly above the soil. No more tricks are used to create a temperature difference; they only periodically moisten the substrate. After two to three weeks, check the cuttings for the presence of roots. Those with roots are transplanted into containers for growing, the rest are returned back.

Growing rooted grape cuttings

• A mixture of sand, earth and mature humus in equal parts is used as a substrate. Ready-made soils are suitable for or for, with a neutral reaction and a high sand content. General rule for soil preparation and tillage - optimal humidity, in which the lump in the hand does not crumble, but does not stain the palm. Too dense soil can “strangle” the roots.
• little by little and as needed.
• If a flower brush appears on the cutting, then this brush, after a growth point appears above it, is carefully broken off.
• When planting in a container, one strong shoot or (with short internodes) two is left on the cutting. You can immediately begin the formation of the future bush, leaving stepsons on the cuttings as a continuation of a strong shoot or in the form of two mini-sleeves.
• At the end of May - beginning of June, the grown rooted cuttings are planted in the ground - immediately on permanent place.

Hello, dear readers. If you are faced with the question: “How and when is it best to root grape cuttings?”, this and other articles in the series of materials on rooting will answer all your questions.

Since the articles are mainly intended for winegrowers who are taking only the first steps in mastering this fascinating activity, they will deal with small volumes of rooted material.

For more experienced colleagues, whose “appetites” have exceeded a hundred or even a thousand cuttings, separate materials will be published in the future.

Firstly, let’s immediately decide on the purpose of rooting, because its timing and methods will depend on this.

If we do not set ourselves the task of obtaining a temporary “run” and artificially increasing the growing season, then the start date for rooting can be postponed to a later date. late time(April, early May), followed by planting the rooted cuttings directly into the school soil or in a permanent place.

So, most often, they act in more southern regions viticulture (southern Ukraine, Krasnodar region, etc.). In the conditions of Belarus, you can also do this, but, in my opinion, only with varieties that are very early date maturing, having short term the growing season and vine ripening are above average.

Unfortunately, most of the most delicious and large-fruited table varieties cannot boast of good ripening of the vine, especially in the first year of life, so this method of rooting is justified only with varieties of Baltic, American and Amur grape selection, and even then not all.

If you decide to use this particular method, then I recommend starting rooting in mid-April, followed by planting in the ground in mid or late May, when the ground has warmed up enough.

But for us, the most acceptable method, in my opinion, is the method of rooting followed by growing vegetative seedlings in containers at home, which artificially increases the duration of the growing season and gives a significant “lead” in time for good ripening of the vine.

It is this method that I want to dwell on in more detail.

Grapes, like most plants, have a period of deep dormancy (from the moment of natural leaf fall until January) and during this period it is more difficult to root the plant, the buds do not wake up willingly and evenly, the formation of the root system is sluggish, which does not the best way affects the final quality of the seedling.

Then comes a period of forced dormancy (from January until the onset of stable heat +10 degrees) during this period the plant is already ready for the beginning of the growing season, but due to the temperature conditions of our climate zone it is forced to delay the “start” of the beginning of growth processes (vegetation) until “better times” "when the average daily temperature approaches +10 (temperature zero for grapes).

It would seem that the sooner we start the rooting process, the more we will increase the growing season of the plant and, accordingly, we will get better results, but this is not so.

That is, theoretically, we can begin the rooting process already in January, artificially creating temperature conditions suitable for the beginning of the growing season, but there is one BUT lighting. Length daylight hours in winter it is extremely insufficient for the process of photosynthesis and you will have to organize additional artificial lighting using lighting devices.

In addition, the process of fiddling with a seedling at home takes a long time, because spring is far away, you are torturing both yourself and the plant. As the root system develops, you will have to transplant the plant into increasingly larger container volumes. Do you need it?

If yes, then you can organize this “hemorrhoids” for yourself right before the New Year and enjoy it at least until the beginning of May. I prefer to start the rooting process in early March. I'll explain why.

Since I prefer kilching, the rooting process takes 15-25 days, and at the end of March I receive rooted cuttings with completely dormant buds.

After planting in a container, it takes another 7-10 days for the buds to awaken, and this is already the beginning of April, the length of daylight hours by this time is already more or less sufficient for the normal process of plant growth. And we still have a whole month left for the development of a good root system and powerful, but not excessive green mass.

Let's summarize.

• In our climatic zone early rooting of cuttings followed by growing seedlings in containers has an undeniable advantage over late rooting, without growing, with planting in open ground.
• A very early start of rooting (January-February) justifies itself if there are artificial lighting devices for seedlings and a heated greenhouse for their growing.
• The optimal rooting period in Belarus, from my point of view, is from February 20 to March 20 (I root on March 1).
• Very late rooting (April-May) is used in the absence of growing in containers with planting of rooted material directly into open ground.

Well, we figured out how and when to root grape cuttings. Think, decide and take the first step towards the future harvest, YOUR harvest of this wonderful plant - grapes. Good luck!

Growing grapes is a rather labor-intensive process. Currently, several methods of grape propagation are widely used, which differ in the source material. And if breeders most often work with seeds, then winegrowers and gardeners usually use seedlings or cuttings.

Advantages of planting grapes from cuttings

Very effective method Propagation of grapes is by planting cuttings. This type of reproduction has several advantages:

• cuttings are a very cheap and very reliable way to obtain planting material;
• there is no risk of the plant becoming infected with a disease dangerous for vineyards called phylloxera;
• the method is very economical and simple, which makes it very popular among beginning winegrowers;
• there is no loss or change in the properties of the variety prepared for cultivation;
• by the autumn it is possible to obtain a reliable and well-rooted planting material, able to withstand harsh winters.

However, it should be remembered that cutting grapes allows you to get the first harvest after a sufficiently long time. long time.

The main stages of propagating grapes by cuttings

Despite the apparent complexity, propagation by cuttings is a fairly easy process, which consists of several operations performed in turn.

Preparing material in the fall

The success of propagation and obtaining a high-quality plant largely depends on how correctly the cuttings are prepared. For cuttings, you need to prepare a clean and sharp pruner. At the procurement stage, it is important to consider following rules and requirements:

• optimal time for this purpose is the autumn period, when after leaf fall the grape bushes are pruned;
• cuttings to be cut must have four well-developed buds;
• cuttings obtained from the middle part work best grapevine;
• the harvesting is carried out from a fully ripened vine, after it has acquired a brown color and if there is slight cracking when bent;
• a high-quality cutting has a diameter of at least 5 mm, is not damaged and is characterized by uniform coloring.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that barren bushes and very thick, so-called fattening, grape shoots, the diameter of which exceeds 12 mm, cannot be used for cutting planting material.

Marking cuttings

Before you begin to directly root the cuttings, you must label each one with the name of the variety. The following can be used as a tag or marking material:

• tape on a fabric basis, on which an inscription is applied with a waterproof marker;
• a corrector pen, with which the name of the variety is applied directly to the cutting;
• a strip of medical oilcloth on which an inscription is applied with a marker.

High-quality marking will not only determine the date of harvesting of the material, but will also guide the winegrower on basic information about the plant, which may be forgotten or lost during the period of storage and rooting.

When to harvest grape cuttings (video)

Storing cuttings at home in winter

In the cellar

The material should be sprinkled with damp sawdust or clean sand. The temperature should be maintained at +6°C.

On the bottom shelf of the refrigerator

By cutting two ordinary plastic bottles and making ventilation holes, you can get a convenient container for storing cuttings in the refrigerator.

Using moss

The quite pronounced antimicrobial properties of sphagnum moss make it possible to use it as a storage for planting material. The prepared cuttings should be wrapped in damp moss and placed in a regular plastic bag.

In a trench on a personal plot

The place should not be prone to stagnation of moisture and be protected from direct sunlight. The cuttings should be placed vertically in the dug trench and sprinkled with a layer of soil of 35-40 cm. Drainage grooves must be installed around the trench. It is recommended to periodically inspect the cuttings for damage by mold fungi or diseases, as well as drying out of the wood.

Rooting cuttings

Rooting grape cuttings in winter period allows you to accelerate the growth and development of seedlings for about 3 months.

Basic methods of cutting grapes

Features of planting seedlings in spring

Most often it is practiced spring planting, which is due to the ability to provide rooted plants with time to adapt to conditions open ground. However, if it is impossible to plant cuttings in the spring, you can do this work in the autumn in compliance with all the necessary rules.

Possible problems and errors

Even experienced winegrowers are not immune to mistakes. However, novice amateur gardeners most often encounter difficulties when cutting grapes.

Purchasing low-quality planting material

Experienced winegrowers are guided by an unspoken rule that prescribes purchasing material exclusively from fruit and berry nurseries, viticulture institutes, or from reputable winegrowers.

Improper storage of grape cuttings

To prevent drying out and prevent the death of cuttings, you should strictly follow the rules for storing planting material and maintain optimal microclimatic conditions.

Rooting disorders

As a rule, this problem primarily affects cuttings that are planted for rooting either very early or too late. It is very important to correctly select the time and method of rooting such planting material.

Misuse of stimulants

Many novice winegrowers unreasonably often use various stimulants, not observing not only the methods of use, but also the dosage of these sufficiently strong means.

Most problems are fairly easy to solve. However, in order to get a guaranteed high result and grow healthy plant, the so-called “work on mistakes” should be carried out, which will avoid difficulties with cuttings in the future.

How to root grape cuttings (video)

Cuttings refer to vegetative methods of propagation, in which a new plant is formed from part of the parent. The procedure is simple even for novice winegrowers. The main condition for obtaining a high-quality plant is compliance with the technology of all stages of grape propagation, including preparation of the material, its storage, germination and planting.

To plant grapes on a plot, the easiest way is to buy ready-made seedlings; nowadays there is no shortage of them. But where do the seedlings on the market come from, how are they grown, and from what? After all, having minimal gardening experience, it is very easy to grow a grape seedling yourself, at home.

Basic methods of grape propagation

Grapes, like almost all shrubs, can reproduce both by seeds and by vegetative means. Seed propagation is not used at home, since it is much more difficult than propagation by cuttings or layering. In addition, it is difficult to predict in advance what kind of variety will grow from seeds, so seed propagation is used mainly in breeding work.

In most cases, practicing winegrowers use growing grape seedlings from cuttings. Somewhat less often, propagation of various kinds is carried out by layering, that is, by digging in the vine, and by grafting onto already planted adult grape bushes of a different, frost- and disease-resistant variety. At vegetative propagation the new plant receives all the properties of the bush from which the cutting, a long piece of vine, or even a single bud for grafting was taken.

Propagation of grapes by cuttings: a method accessible to a beginner

The most commonly used method of propagating grapes is taking woody cuttings and rooting them. It is so easy to do that it can be recommended to a beginning winegrower. True, simple does not mean “itself”; you need to work hard, and a lot. First you need to get or buy cuttings of the variety you like somewhere and begin this interesting process.

Cuttings are usually harvested during autumn pruning grapes or a little earlier - when the leaves have ceased to be purely green, that is, the growing season is nearing completion, and the shoots, as far as they could, have matured and become woody. It is impossible to leave the preparation of cuttings until the spring: it is unknown what will happen to the weather in winter, how well the bushes will survive the frosts.

When sending cuttings for storage, do not forget to sign

The highest quality cuttings are obtained from the middle part of the vine: the top is usually not fully mature, and there are few strong buds in the lower part. A fully ripened vine cracks when slightly bent, but does not break. Cuttings are cut “with a reserve”, that is, with 5–6 eyes, despite the fact that for immediate cultivation in the spring they will be required to be half as long. It is better if their diameter is at least 5 mm, and the shoot from which they are cut has grown over the summer to at least one and a half meters in length.

In most cases, cuttings will only be needed at the end of winter, and until then they must be properly preserved. You can keep them in the refrigerator if you have space, but it’s more convenient to store them in the cellar. The best temperature is about +1 o C. Before sending to the cellar, the cuttings are soaked for 1–2 hours in a 1% solution iron sulfate and day in clean water. Store in plastic bags, leaving only the top outside. In winter, check the integrity and, if necessary, wash or just wipe off any detected mold. If it dries out, soak it.

Planting cuttings directly in open ground

In the warmest regions, woody cuttings can be planted directly into the garden bed. Sometimes they are planted even immediately after autumn harvesting, only slightly insulated with dry leaves or spruce branches. If you plant cuttings in good soil, they take root easily and begin to grow with the onset of spring warmth. To do this, cuttings with 3–4 buds are buried almost completely in the ground in the fall, leaving only one bud above the ground. But until spring, this bud is covered with earth. Often, to preserve heat and moisture, the resulting mound is covered plastic film, and in the spring a hole is made in it for the growth of young shoots. When it becomes warm and the cutting begins to throw out leaves and begins to grow, the film is removed and the mound is raked.

Most often, cuttings are planted in the garden bed in the spring. In the central regions, the probability of success of such propagation is low, but in the south in March, when the earth warms up to 10–12 o C, cuttings are planted in the same way as in the fall, however, after serious preparation. First, the cuttings removed from the cellar are disinfected, then both ends are cut off and soaked for several days in clean water.

Then an oblique cut is made in the lower part just below the bud, and the top is cut straight, 2-3 cm above the upper bud. Place them in a jar, pour water to a height of 4–5 cm and keep in a warm place until the roots peck. The water is periodically changed and added to keep the level constant. If the water temperature in the jar is from 25 to 30 o C, and in the area of ​​the tops of the cuttings is 5–7 degrees lower, after three weeks white tubercles will appear on the cuttings at the surface of the water.

The roots are not allowed to grow, and if the weather permits, the cuttings with the rudiments of the roots are planted deep in the garden bed. In this option, there is no point in making the cuttings short: you can plant them with 6 buds, the roots will be stronger. When planting at an angle in the spring, two buds are left above the ground. Water well and keep the soil moist. If frost is still possible, cover with non-woven materials.

It is better to plant cuttings with small roots in the garden bed.

At first, the cuttings will grow roots, but the leaves will bloom almost immediately. And towards the offensive warm weather shoots (one or two, no need to leave more, even if they appear) will quickly grow. By autumn it will grow from the cuttings good seedling. If the cutting was planted immediately in place, in well-fertilized soil and previously dug landing hole, you can leave the plant here. But usually it is transplanted to a permanent place, having prepared the hole in advance according to all the rules.

Growing a seedling from a cutting at home

As a rule, especially in climatic conditions middle zone, grapes from cuttings begin to be grown at home. They do this in different substrates, and very often wet sawdust is used instead of garden soil. Generally speaking, there are a lot of options for growing seedlings from cuttings; everyone chooses the one that, in his opinion, is simplest. Work begins in February. The cuttings are unpacked, disinfected, washed and checked to see if they have overwintered well.

Lightly scrape off the bark on the cutting. If it is alive and can give life to a new plant, there will be tissue under the bark Green colour. A different color does not guarantee success: the cutting has not overwintered.

Chibouks are cut from good cuttings: this is what cuttings with three buds are traditionally called. Let’s not introduce unnecessary terms; let them remain cuttings, especially since in the case of good buds, two will be enough for propagation. If you leave the kidney more than three, at home you will have to put up whole buckets, this is not necessary.

Make the upper and lower cuts, as already mentioned: the lower oblique, the upper straight, and place the cuttings for 2–3 days in a bath of water (preferably snow). Cuttings that are well saturated with water, in principle, can be immediately planted in prepared containers with substrate. They will probably grow there. But to be on the safe side, they often do things differently:

The most convenient containers are plastic one and a half liter bottles with a cut off, narrowed top. You just need to make a few holes in the bottom for removal. excess water and place drainage made of small pebbles or coarse sand. The best soil considered a mixture of river sand and good garden soil (1:1), but some amateurs make do with sawdust, but they must first be doused with boiling water. The continuation of the work looks like this:

It is worth saying that the first part of the work described (germination in water until cuttings form) is not mandatory; many amateurs plant cuttings in a container with a substrate and without roots, growing them already there. This option, on the one hand, is simpler, on the other, more complicated: it is necessary to more strictly monitor humidity, light and temperature regime. In addition, there are grape varieties that do not produce roots well, and for them this number will not work.

Video: germinating cuttings in sawdust

Propagation of grapes by green cuttings

Growing seedlings from green cuttings is possible for most shrub plants, it is also used for grapes. On the one hand, it is more simple procedure: it is performed in the summer, and there is no need to start at home with jars, and there is no need to store cuttings in the cellar in the winter either. On the other hand, you can grow a seedling from a green cutting only if you have good greenhouse, in which high and constant air humidity will have to be maintained for a long time. Therefore, such propagation is more suitable for industrial nurseries, where there is special equipment to create artificial fog in a confined space. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Thus, the essence of this technique is to ensure that the planted cuttings are constantly in conditions high humidity(about 80%, and in hot weather - up to 100%) and air temperature from 20 to 30 o C. Then after a month and a half they grow good roots and shoots up to 30 cm long, after which the cuttings are hardened and then transplanted into school. Obviously, on ordinary summer cottages grape propagation green cuttings extremely difficult, but enthusiasts try, and some succeed.

Video: germinating green cuttings at home

Propagation of grapes by digging in vines

Many shrubs are propagated by layering, that is, by digging branches (shoots) in one way or another. This option is also possible in the case of grapes, and if successful, you can get several new grape plants in one summer. In this way, they usually try to propagate difficult-to-root varieties. Since future seedlings essentially feed from the roots of the mother bush, they develop well and form a powerful root system of their own.

Digging in a woody shoot

This is usually done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Choose conveniently located powerful shoots from last year. In the right place, they dig a fairly deep ditch, up to half a meter, extending from the bush to the place where they are going to bury the vine. Naturally, it should not be deep directly next to the bush, so as not to damage the roots. Well-fertilized soil with humus and superphosphate is poured into the ditch, at the very bottom, and a shoot is laid. You need to bend it carefully so as not to break it, and you can attach it to the bottom of the ditch with a piece of bent thick wire or simply press it down with a heavy stone.

It’s not difficult to spread out the vine, but you have to do it carefully so as not to break it

Where they will be new bush, the vine is carefully bent, taken out and tied to a stake. All eyes located from the mother bush up to the point of this bend are removed. Many specialists tie it tightly with wire at the very beginning of the shoot, near the mother bush, to make it easier to separate a new plant later in the year. The ditch is gradually filled with soil and watered well. As a rule, within a year good roots grow in the buried place, and next spring the new plant is separated from the mother plant.

Digging in green shoots

In the summer, in June or July, you can dig in the powerfully grown green shoots of the current year. They do this in a similar way, bringing to the surface the tip of the shoot with two or three leaves. If the shoot is very long, it can be buried with a “sinusoid”, bringing it to the surface several times. All parts remaining underground must be secured to the bottom of the ditch with pins.

If you do not allow the soil to dry out in the summer, for well-rooted varieties you can even get several new bushes this way by next spring.

Performing “Chinese” layering

Chinese are called layering, which is performed by completely laying a lignified shoot into the ground. This is done in the case of the most poorly rooted varieties. For installation in early spring, choose a long shoot located at the very base of the bush. Dig it all the way into a ditch no more than 20 cm deep. Also into fertilized soil, also pinning it to the bottom of the ditch. But the ditch is not completely filled up: the layer of soil above the vine is first made no more than 5 cm. And only as new shoots emerge from the buds and grow, soil is gradually added to the ditch. Keep the trap moist at all times.

Usually new shoots grow from each buried bud; In the fall, carefully dig up the vine and cut it into several new plants. However, for this to happen, you have to sacrifice part of the harvest and reduce the load on the mother bush. In the summer it is necessary to break out not only the extra bunches, but also all the stepsons and some of the young shoots.

Video: laying green vines in the ground

Grape propagation by grafting

Like most fruit trees, grapes can be grafted. Carrying out grafting is no more difficult than, for example, in the case of an apple tree, but not all varieties are compatible, and success in each specific case is not guaranteed. Therefore, it is advisable to study the literature before the operation, look for which adult bushes can be grafted with one or another variety. If you haven’t found such information, all you can do is experiment.

Grafting grapes is as common as grafting fruit trees.

In the case of grapes, all known grafting methods are used (splitting, copulation, budding, etc.), but the number of options is even greater. They are grafted with both last year's cuttings and those cut from the current year's shoots. Both in the standard or last year's escape, and in the current year's escape. Therefore, the appropriate terminology is used: “black to black”, “black to green”, etc. There is even a desktop, winter vaccination.

So, for example, “black to black” grafting is performed in the spring, when active growing season has not yet begun. The scion is made from cuttings cut in the fall and stored in the cold. For such grafting, the buds on the cuttings should be slightly swollen. It is performed using copulation methods. Cuttings that are suitable in thickness to the shoot of the rootstock are selected, soaked, oblique cuts are made on the cuttings and rootstock, they are connected and the grafting site is firmly tied. When new shoots for cuttings grow to 25–30 cm, they are pinched.

In the case of “black to green” grafting, last year’s cuttings with emerging buds are grafted onto young, powerful green shoots of the current year. This type of grafting is usually performed using the “split” method. It is possible throughout the growing season, as long as it is possible to preserve lignified cuttings harvested in the fall in the cellar.

It is also possible to graft into the trunk of an old bush when they dig it up in early spring. upper layer soil; The cuttings are grafted underground, usually using the “split” technique. It is done at a depth of about 15 cm. The cutting is completely buried with earth.

Video: grafting grapes into a standard

Budding, that is, bud grafting, is carried out on a green vine in June or July. As on fruit trees, it is possible to implant a bud into a shoot behind the bark by making various incisions: T-shaped, longitudinal, in a gap, etc. The grafting site is wrapped very well with film, and after a month the bud takes root well.

A detailed description of grape grafting methods is beyond the scope of this article, but it is quite accessible. After reading and a little practice, any gardener with minimal skills in caring for trees and shrubs can plant grapes.

Grapes are a vine, but, in fact, they are very similar to many fruit bushes, and its propagation techniques are generally the same as, for example, currants. The goal - obtaining a new seedling - can be achieved by known methods: germination of cuttings, layering, grafting. Performing all these operations is, to one degree or another, accessible even to a beginner, and if at first it’s scary, you just have to try.

In this article I want to talk to you, my reader, about how to root grape cuttings.

We will discuss in detail all the subtleties and nuances of this important issue for a novice winegrower, and we will try to choose the most convenient and suitable type of rooting for you.

The easiest way is to stick a cutting into the ground and trust in Mother Nature, because somehow plants grow without our sensitive guidance and grow well.

On my plot in this way, 15 years ago, 5 bushes of “Alpha” (popularly “Isabella”) were planted, two of them survived and now they are huge bushes, producing 7-8 buckets of grapes, but there’s just no one willing to eat them observed.

So if you are ready for the unpredictable results of a natural “lottery”, you don’t have to read any further, stock up on cuttings and go ahead. But if you want a guaranteed result, I recommend that you put in a little effort and it will more than pay off in the long run.

There are many methods of rooting, you can find out all of them yourself on the Internet. I want to dwell in detail on only three of them, as the simplest, most widespread, tested by me for many years and, in my opinion, the best.

• Rooting in water.
• Rooting in a cultivator.
• Third way. A little intrigue :)

Rooting in water.

This is the most common and easiest rooting method.

The cuttings are placed with the lower part in a container with water (glass, jar), where room temperature and root formation occurs.

The process takes from two to four weeks, depending on the quality of the planting material, the characteristics of the variety and compliance with rooting technology.

Pros:

• Simplicity.
• No additional equipment required.
• Possibility of visual control of the appearance of roots.

Minuses:

• The process of shoot growth begins in the absence of a fully developed root system.

But, despite all the disadvantages, many famous winegrowers use this method and achieve excellent results.

Since the rooting process occurs at room temperature 20-25 degrees, the germination of the eye (bud) and the formation of a young shoot occurs several weeks before the appearance of the root system. The nutrients necessary for the growth of green mass are taken directly from the reserves of the cutting itself, which significantly weakens the future seedling.

If the roots appear within the planned time frame - 2-4 weeks from the beginning of rooting, then there is no reason for concern; after transplanting into a container with soil, the roots will begin to grow rapidly and, with an increase in the root mass, moisture and nutrients will begin to flow to the young shoots directly from soil, and the seedling (and from the moment it is planted in the container it is already a seedling) will quickly replenish lost reserves and continue to grow green mass.

But if, for some reason, the appearance of the roots is delayed indefinitely, then nutrients the cuttings will be completely depleted, shoot growth will be slowed down and the chances of successful rooting will diminish every day.

And the second rooting method will help us avoid this unpleasant phenomenon:

Rooting in a cultivator.

Our cuttings are placed in a special device for germination - a cultivator. Details about self-production and the principle of operation of the simplest kilchevator in the article

The keeler itself is placed in a room with low temperature 0-8 degrees Celsius (balcony, basement, cellar), which ensures a temperature difference between the bottom of the cutting (temperature in the cultivator, at the place of root formation, 24-26 degrees) and the top (location of the eyes (buds)) of 2-8 degrees, respectively.

That is, the process of root formation has been started, but the process of bud opening and shoot growth has been stopped. As a result, we will receive a seedling with excellent roots and dormant buds that “start” at maximum favorable conditions with a fully functioning root system.

Pros:

• Obtaining seedlings of excellent quality.
• Possibility of rooting varieties with a long period of root formation.

Minuses:

• The need to purchase or manufacture a picker.
• Inability to visually control the appearance of roots.

Third way.

Buy a ready-made seedling.

Yes, you heard right, no matter how strange it sounds in this article, but if I have a choice between buying a cutting and a seedling from a trustworthy seller, I will choose the seedling, despite considerable experience in rooting cuttings.

And it doesn’t matter how you purchase seedlings in person or order them via the Internet by mail, the main thing is to be confident in the integrity and professionalism of the winegrower selling you planting material. It is a VINEGARDER and not a dealer-reseller who sells only God knows what on the local market.

I buy cuttings only if I can’t find seedlings of the desired variety from other winegrowers, even if they are available on the market or other untrustworthy places.

After all, it’s better to wait a week for the cuttings or seedlings to reach you by mail than to buy a “pig in a poke” and lose several years growing everyone’s favorite Alpha (popularly Isabella) under the loud name of the non-existent variety “Lady Finger”, for example, kindly foisted to you a little man with shifty eyes in the market.

Take care of your money, and most importantly, time and nerves, dear readers, so that you don’t suffer excruciatingly from wasted years.

Bottom line.

I don’t know which way to grow grapes from cuttings you will choose. If you just decide to grow a couple of bushes in the country, then rooting on water is your method. If you decide to become a winegrower, even an amateur, and start a small vineyard on your plot, you should think about making a cultivator; you will need it for more than one year.

But whatever you choose, I sincerely wish you good luck! Happy rooting, ladies and gentlemen.