When choosing a plant, you need to pay attention to the packaging of its root system. Plants in containers planted in open ground throughout the growing season - from early spring to late autumn. Optimal timing For planting with an open root system - spring and autumn, when the plants are in natural state reduced activity of physiological processes. Spring planting are made after thawing and warming up of the soil, before the active buds begin to open and shoots form, autumn - after leaf fall. Overdrying of the roots is unacceptable, especially when it comes to coniferous plants.

The optimal dimensions of pits for tree seedlings are diameter - 1.0-1.2 m, depth - up to 0.8 m. For shrubs, a diameter of 0.6-0.6 m and a depth of 0.6 m is sufficient. The edges of the pit must be strictly vertical, and the entire volume has a regular cylindrical shape. First they shoot upper layer soil onto the bayonet of a shovel, free it from the grass and place it in a heap on the edge of the hole. The lower infertile layer is also laid separately. Grass, top and bottom layers of soil will be needed when filling and decorating the pit. To fill the planting hole you need to prepare drainage material: broken brick, expanded clay, pebbles, sand. Prepare a soil mixture that should be sufficiently nutritious.

Composition of the soil mixture:

• 1 part river sand
• 2 parts compost
• 1 part fertile soil
• 1.0-2.0 kg lime
• 1.0-1.5 kg double superphosphate
• up to 1.0 kg wood ash

The components of the mixture are loaded into the pit and mixed thoroughly, having previously thrown in the grass left over from cutting the turf.

Landing. Shrubs are planted in cloudy weather. The plant is installed by its roots on a prepared mound of earth in landing pit and level the position of the root collar (the transition point between the trunk and the root) at a height of 3-5 cm from the surface of the edge of the pit. Then the roots are sprinkled with earth, filling all the space between them. Next, they install a stake to which the seedling is attached, form a hill around the trunk and carefully trample it down. A dense annular roller is formed around the seedling from infertile soil (dug up earlier), the purpose of which is to prevent water from passing through when watering the seedling or treating it with stimulant solutions. Water the plant generously. After watering, pour a mixture of soil with humus or peat inside the ring. This will significantly reduce the evaporation of water from the hole and prevent surface drying and cracking of the soil around the seedling.

Care. Behind the trees and bushes easy to care for - they do not require regular weeding and thinning. Basically, care comes down to feeding, watering, and pruning. With the help of pruning, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting out old branches and releasing young shoots into the open air. Trees and shrubs are pruned to encourage flowering and growth year after year. Mulching soil is also very important. Mulching means covering areas of soil nearby with a layer of some kind, preferably organic material, to retain moisture. For mulching the soil such plant materials like grass, straw, leaves, branches from hedge trimming, turf, wood waste and bark, as well as well-ripened compost. This organic material is scattered in a thin layer on the flower beds. For mulching black film is also used. Under the mulch layer, the soil does not experience sharp temperature fluctuations, does not dry out during dry periods and does not become waterlogged during heavy rains. It remains moderately moist, warm and loose. Mulch also suppresses weed growth, and organic matter helps improve soil fertility. For example, sawdust and shavings, among other things, repel slugs, however, it is worth remembering that they acidify the soil. The most favorable time for mulching is the end of spring - the beginning of summer, when the soil is well warmed up. The mulching layer of bark under trees and shrubs can reach a thickness of 20 cm. Pebbles, which are especially good for flower beds and ridges, can also protect the soil from drying out and retard the growth of weeds.

From the correctness and timeliness of maintenance work carried out in the fall fruit trees Both the volume and quality of next year’s harvest directly depend. Measures to protect them from pests and diseases, applying fertilizers, digging and moistening the soil in the garden are extremely important work pruning should be done on time - this will make it easier for the trees to enter winter and help them survive it without loss.

The importance of autumn care

Measures carried out in the correct order for the autumn care of fruit trees after the end of the harvest help to increase their winter hardiness, that is, the ability not to suffer from any weather disasters - severe frosts, sudden thaws, and most importantly - the alternation of both.

Strengthen the immunity of plants, reduce the volume of branches, protect against pests and diseases, and add nutrients in the fall so that trees and shrubs, waking up in the spring, can immediately use them - all this work needs to be done in a fairly short time.

Skipping any of the stages risks not just catching up in the spring, but a lack of harvest or even the death of the entire plant.

Autumn garden plan

Proper care for an orchard in the autumn period begins in September and should end approximately half a month before the arrival of frost. In order to complete all the work on time, it is convenient to care for the trees in the fall according to a plan adjusted according to the weather forecast in a particular area. The main stages of activity are as follows:

• remove the hunting belts, clean them and destroy pests, remove carrion from the ground;
• approximately in the second month of autumn, as cold and rainy weather approaches, young seedlings are planted;
• fruit-bearing trees are pruned - if the harvest has already been harvested, the sap flow is slow and the plants are preparing to go to sleep;
• whiten the trunks and bases of large branches;
• trunks and branches are treated to remove insects that have taken refuge in them for the winter, fungal diseases and rot are prevented;
• collect and burn leaves and trimmed branches;
• they dig up the soil near the berry patches and in the tree trunks, add fertilizer in the form of fertilizers;
• if necessary, trees are insulated and protected from small and large rodents (especially for young seedlings).

Sanitary pruning

The main way to regulate the yield of fruit trees is by pruning them. It heals the plant, prevents it from going wild, directs the growth of branches in the right direction and helps to form bountiful harvest. The main burden of pruning fruit trees falls on gardeners in the spring, when the frosts have already ended, but the growing season has not yet begun. In the fall, sanitary pruning is carried out: after a careful inspection, broken and dried branches are removed - these are especially popular with harmful insects. They also cut out shoots that greatly interfere with others, that are weak and that cross.

They destroy tops - fattening ones, with large leaves and weak buds. They usually grow from dormant buds on skeletal old branches. The fruits on the tops do not set, and they take away the strength from the tree, at the same time thickening the crown. The provoking factor for the appearance large quantity Spinning tops are caused by overfeeding the tree with nitrogen and too much watering.

Having gotten rid of excess, unproductive load, the plant directs more energy to preparing for winter cold.

Preventive treatment for diseases

Autumn care includes spraying the trunk and branches with medicinal substances. In particular, treatment with copper preparations, solutions iron sulfate And Bordeaux mixture, as well as modern fungicides - Kuproxat, Horus, Topsin - allows you to preventively protect fruit trees from coccomycosis and other types of spotting.

Treatment with Impact, Strobi, and Skor helps suppress possible foci of scab and rot. Since any wounds, hollows and cracks on the bark of plants are open gates for infection, they must be treated with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate and covered with cement.

In addition, many insects lay larvae in the bark of fruit trees in the fall. This is how the offspring of the codling moth, the ringed silkworm, hope to survive the winter. Dry leaves, as if glued to the branches by a thin web, are a refuge for lacewing and hawthorn caterpillars. These are just a few of the extensive list of pests. orchard. To protect plantings from them, after removing carrion, fallen leaves and debris, iron brushes are used to clean the trunks and, as far as possible, branches from dead bark. Then all trees are treated with one of the well-proven insecticides - a three or five percent urea solution, Fury, Agravertini, Bulldoc (they are especially effective against aphids, silkworms, leaf rollers and lungworts).

Whitewashing trunks

This is an important factor in autumn care fruit trees. Lime treatment of the bark serves as protection for plants from:

• winter temperature changes, when during the day the bark heats up in the sun, and at night it is affected by severe frosts,
• spring burns when it is not yet covered with foliage;
• harmful insects that lay their larvae for the winter;
• a number of fungal diseases.

The whitewash solution should be quite thick and saturated. They cover the trunk and, if possible, the bases of skeletal branches.

Options for its composition:

• when preparing at home, 2 kg of lime is combined with 400 g copper sulfate. Dissolve water in a bucket and put a kilogram of clay there and cow dung. For viscosity, some gardeners add paste to this mixture, but it cannot be used for young seedlings - the sticky mixture will prevent the delicate bark from breathing;
• for young trees, lime in this cocktail is replaced with chalk;
• purchased mixtures are divided into simple ones - made of clay and lime, which are quickly washed off by precipitation, and special paints that last a long time on the trunks and contain special antiseptics against diseases.

Autumn feeding

It is very important to carry out this procedure correctly. Autumn fertilization is considered more significant than spring and summer: the frost resistance of trees, especially those planted recently, is enhanced, their immunity and fruiting power are strengthened.

Root feeding added when digging earth tree trunk circles. Humus and mineral fertilizers are added:

• humus By spring it will rot, and when it wakes up, the plant will receive the nitrogen supplement it needs. For trees less than 8 years old, 30 kg of substance is enough, for adults - about 50 kg;
• phosphorus- sparingly soluble in water, inactive substance. Spreading superphosphate over the soil surface is useless for plants. It is best to apply it into the holes around the trunk along the projection of the crown to a depth of about 30 cm. A handful of fertilizer is placed in each hole, water is added and buried;
• potassium sulfate- the best potassium fertilizer, since it does not contain chlorine harmful to plantings. The addition rate is 5-10 g per square meter.

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Humus

It is preferable to simultaneously incorporate potassium and phosphorus compounds - this way their assimilation is more efficient. The best option for caring for trees in the fall is purchasing complex fertilizers and strict adherence to the instructions for use for different fruit crops.

Plants are not fertilized with nitrogen, since this element promotes sap flow, which harms the winter hardiness of trees.

Features of caring for fruit tree seedlings in autumn

After planting, young trees must be tied to a stake and the soil mulched. Digging of tree trunk circles is carried out carefully, to a depth of no more than 15 cm, so as not to damage root system.

The tender bark of young plantations is especially vulnerable in winter, attractive to hares and mice. Caring for tree seedlings involves mandatory protection. To do this, many gardeners tie the stems with spruce branches with the needles down. If this is not possible, best option- purchased fine mesh. They wrap the trunks with it, simultaneously deepening it into the soil. Another unexpected material is disused synthetic tights and stockings.

In addition, to combat mice, you need to clear the garden of fallen leaves and branches in the fall after pruning.

In the fall, there is a lot of work to prepare the garden for winter, but this way it will survive the frosty period without loss and accumulate strength for active flowering and abundant fruiting.

Plants need care not only summer season, but also in the winter months, therefore, having summarized information on the contents of various garden crops, you can create a so-called calendar for caring for trees and shrubs.

The timing of the work depends on the soil and climatic conditions of the area, biological features grown crops and plant development periods. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the weather conditions of the current year. The recommendations offered are intended primarily for climatic conditions middle zone. Based on this, each gardener should use recommendations taking into account specific local conditions, weather and deviations in air temperature from average long-term data.

January

The main concern in January is protecting trees and shrubs from frost damage. In the absence of snow, the roots may freeze if the soil temperature at a depth of 20 cm drops to -12-18°C. Best protection roots and trunks are snow. If there is not enough snow, it is collected from paths and ditches. To accumulate snow, branches and brushwood are scattered around the area in advance. If frosts below -30 °C are expected, then the trunks and bases of skeletal branches are covered with snow. After heavy snowfalls, the branches of trees and bushes can break off under the weight of the snow, so the snow is carefully shaken off, and during thaws it is removed with a long pole wrapped at the end with burlap or foam rubber.

IN winter time The enemies of young trees and shrubs are rodents that eat the bark of trunks and skeletal branches. It is not too late to protect trees even in January (if there was no time to take appropriate measures in the fall). You need to compact the snow tightly around the trunk, tie the trunk with spruce branches or wormwood (you can also use roofing felt, roofing felt, metal mesh, polyethylene film).

In early January, Schisandra chinensis seeds are soaked in water for five days, changing the water daily. After this period, the seeds are sown in boxes with soil mixture.

February

February is dangerous for overwintering trees sudden changes temperatures, so you must constantly ensure that the trunks and bases of skeletal branches are under snow cover.

Mice and hares become more active in February. High snowdrifts make it easier for hares to reach young branches that are difficult to protect. At this time, various repellents are used, for example, spraying the branches with a solution of tar or creolin (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).

March

In the first half of March, the snow begins to melt, so we must strive to retain the melt water in the area. Under the rays of the sun, the snow quickly settles, freeing tree trunks, which must be inspected for damage by rodents.

If there are only focal and superficial damage to the bark and the wounds heal quickly, they may not even be treated. If a significant part of the bark is damaged, the wound is coated with garden varnish.

March is dangerous for trees and shrubs due to sunburn on the trunks and in the forks of skeletal branches. The appearance of burns is explained by the strong heating of the bark on sunny days and the subsequent sharp change in air temperature at night; to prevent this phenomenon, sun-protective whitewash is performed.

On warm March days, we usually start pruning trees and shrubs. It starts with older plants. After pruning, early spring spraying of the bushes with a 3-4% solution of nitrafen (300-400 g per 10 liters of water) is carried out to destroy the wintering stages of pests. Also in March, they prepare for the arrival of birds - garden nurses: they clean and repair old bird houses, and hang new ones.

In March, boxes with actinidia seeds sown in the fall are transferred from the basement to a bright room with an air temperature of 15-18 C. Typically, shoots appear after 15-25 days.

April

Continue pruning until the buds open. Planting of trees and shrubs begins. First of all, winter grafts stored in a cold place are planted.

After the snow has melted, the tree trunk areas are cleared of insulating material, all last year's leaves and other plant debris are collected and used for compost.

At the beginning of May, all planting work should be completed. Plants planted in the fall are carefully inspected: if they are too deep or planted too shallow, they are replanted, watered and mulched.

Continue sowing seeds that have undergone stratification. Monitor the emergence of seedlings. In May, fruit crops are grafted with cuttings.

In May, rapid growth of leaves and shoots begins. But if the previous winter caused the trees to freeze, their vegetation, as a rule, is delayed. In this case, tree pruning is carried out in May (and not in April).

June

June is a month of intensive growth of shoots and ovaries. Both young and adult plants need to be provided with the best possible nutrition and moisture at this time. The soil is fertilized and kept loose. In trees with severe freezing of the above-ground parts, strong root growth begins in June. If it is not removed promptly and correctly, over time it can outstrip the tree itself and even destroy it.

Immediately after flowering, spraying against pests is carried out. At the beginning of June, some bushes, especially in rainy and cool weather, may appear dangerous disease- powdery mildew. The first sign of it is the formation of a thin silvery-white coating on the underside of young leaves. If the attack is severe, the bushes may even die. Fight with powdery mildew It is effective only at the very beginning of the disease, so in June you need to inspect the bushes more often so as not to miss the first signs of the disease and spray the plants in time.

July

During the period of mass formation of roots in green cuttings, the plantings are fertilized with fertilizers. The soil is loosened, mulched, freed from weeds, and care is taken that it does not dry out.

Green manure (mustard, phacelia, peas, vetch) is sown in the unoccupied rows of the garden to enrich the soil with organic matter. They are especially useful in waterlogged areas, as they dry them out and stop the growth of trees, which helps better preparation them by winter.

At the end of July, seeds of some plants (for example, serviceberry) are harvested. In July, the fruits of many trees and shrubs are collected.

August

The main agrotechnical task of this month is to create for trees and shrubs necessary conditions preparation for winter. If too much organic and mineral fertilizers, shoots are still growing
may continue.

Sometimes rainy weather in August causes secondary growth of shoots; to stop this undesirable phenomenon, it is necessary to remove the mulch, and pinch the tops of strongly growing shoots in young plants.

By August, hopeless, dead trees and shrubs that need to be removed from the site are clearly identified.

September

The main work of this month is related to harvesting and preparing plants for winter. Also in September, sanitary pruning of trees is carried out, cutting out into rings all the dried and diseased branches, which are clearly visible against the background of the leaves that have not yet fallen.

At the end of September, dig up the soil in the tree trunk areas, water it and fertilize it, if planned. autumn planting seedlings, then in September the planting holes are prepared and filled with fertilizers.

October

At the end of the month, seedlings are buried for the winter. To do this, dig a trench 40-50 cm deep, the southern side of which is made sloping, seedlings are placed on it in one row at an angle of 45. The roots are buried to the level of the root collar and watered. The buried plants are covered with spruce branches.

To prevent the branches of young trees from breaking under the weight of snow, they are lifted and the ends are tied to the central conductor. Stems and forks of skeletal branches to protect against sunburn coated with freshly slaked lime or chalk with the addition of copper sulfate, previously dissolved in hot water(0.4 kg), and wood glue (0.1 kg).

In trees on dwarf rootstocks, as well as those growing on hills and sandy soils, the root system may freeze in the absence of snow. It is especially important for them that the soil is loose, so it freezes less. A good protection for the roots is to cover them with humus, leaves, and peat.

November

In November, to prevent the washout of the top fertile soil layer, furrows are made across the existing slope on the site.

In windy areas, shields and other improvised means for snow retention are placed.

Before the onset of severe frosts, cuttings are prepared for winter and spring grafting. By mid-November the main gardening work.

If the soil was not dug up in October, it is better to do it now - in good weather. Before the snow falls, whitewashing of the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches is completed. Young trees are tied up for the winter. The soil around the bushes is mulched with peat.

December

The first month of winter is characterized by particularly unstable weather - frosts are often replaced by deep thaws. Snow falls and then melts completely, after which a sharp cold snap often sets in. In order to prevent the snow from completely melting, we must strive to accumulate it on the site. When snow falls, they cover the bushes with it and rake it under the trees.

If the cuttings were not planted in the fall, then in early December, before the onset of severe frosts, they are cut and stored. In this case, the landing is carried out in early spring.

Deciduous trees and shrubs are an integral part of planting material that no garden can do without. Like coniferous plants, deciduous plants have their own care requirements. This is especially true for the first year after planting. Best landing time deciduous plants Spring and the first half of summer are considered. In this case, trees and shrubs have time to recover from the shock of replanting, adapt to new conditions for them, restore and grow a powerful root system, and generally better prepare for the first winter in a new place.

Caring for deciduous trees immediately after planting

The first time after planting, deciduous plants need abundant watering, even more intense than conifers. This is very important rule, a violation that can quickly lead to loss of decorativeness, and even death of plants.

It will not hurt to treat the planting material with biological stimulants during the first month.

It is necessary to closely monitor the condition of plants and promptly monitor the occurrence of fungal diseases, as well as insect pests. By the way, there are much more different pests of deciduous plants compared to coniferous ones, but it is also easier to fight them. Since many of them are exposed to contact drugs. We recommend mandatory preventive treatments with both insecticides and fungicides in the first year after planting deciduous trees and shrubs, alternating them with the use of stimulants.

Spring care for deciduous trees

In spring and first half of summer planting material needs fertilizing with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. And from the second half of summer, phosphorus and potassium become the main components of fertilizers. They contribute to the proper ripening of young shoots, strengthening the root system and reliable preparation of deciduous trees and shrubs for winter. Wherein mineral supplements It is advisable to alternate with organic ones. It is advisable to complete all fertilizing two weeks before the onset of the first frost.

Some deciduous trees and shrubs need shelter for the winter. It should be carried out after leaf fall. It is advisable to collect and burn fallen leaves, since they are often a wintering site for insect pests, as well as spores of fungi that cause diseases.

Almost all fruit trees, as well as some ornamental deciduous trees and shrubs, can be damaged in winter. Their bark and young shoots are a source of food for mice. Therefore, it is recommended to protect the trunk and skeletal branches of the plant. In winter, mice make their way to trees under the snow, so you can trample hard crust around tree trunks.

Some deciduous plants, and especially fruit trees, can get sunburned in late winter and early spring. To prevent such damage, it is necessary to whiten the trunks and the base of the lower branches with garden whitewash. It is very important to do this in the fall, since it is inconvenient to carry out such work in February-March, and it is easy to miss the moment when the thaw begins. In the spring, as a rule, the whitewash is renewed.

Prevention of deciduous trees

TO preventive treatments against diseases and pests, you can start quite early, and you should select drugs that can not lose their qualities at low temperatures.

Another important aspect of caring for deciduous plants is pruning. In the Moscow region best time for its implementation is early spring when the danger of frost returning to -15 degrees has passed. Plant pruning is a rather specific (there are peculiarities in the methods and timing of pruning various deciduous plants) agrotechnical technique, although it is not complicated. But if you are not confident in the correctness of your actions, then it is better to entrust it to specialists.

To grow a beautiful fruitful garden or just a small planting of ornamental plants, you will need to invest a lot of work. In this case, it is necessary not only to plant the young animals correctly, but also to ensure quality care for trees and shrubs. Caring for plantings includes a lot various works, in fact, we will talk about them in this article.

If you don’t want to bother and waste time and energy growing plants, but at the same time you dream of really beautiful garden, we recommend seeking help from professional gardeners. Our specialists will take care of your plantings, creating the most acceptable conditions for their growth and development! :)

Planting and caring for trees and shrubs in the first year

As a rule, after planting young animals, they are practically forgotten about for several years. It is believed that once planted, plants do not require attention. In principle, this judgment is half true: the seedlings do not need to be fed, because there is enough fertilizer in the planting pit (definitely enough for 2 years) and there is no need to collect the fruits (they will appear only after 5 years). However, there are a number of processes that simply need to be completed in the near future.

IN post-planting care of trees and shrubs In spring or autumn, formative pruning must be included. If you do not form a seedling correctly in the first year of life, the chances of growing a tree from it the desired shape are approaching zero. An incorrectly formed plant will bring a lot of inconvenience: caring for it will be quite difficult if the seedling stretches upward. Conclusion: it is imperative to start forming the crown as early as possible.

Further care of trees and shrubs during their life will include only sanitary pruning: shoots damaged by pests will be removed and environment. Besides sanitary cleaning, other seasonal activities will also be included in the care. We'll talk about this further.

In the meantime, let us remind you that our professionals can provide high-quality care for your plantings. Experienced gardeners will put your garden in order and provide excellent conditions for the proper development of each plant! :)

Spring care different types plants

Care coniferous trees and bushes spring is easier than gardening and includes the following activities:

• Whitewash: performed to protect plants from sunburn on summer days.
• Spraying: It is produced for the purpose of preventing diseases and pests, as well as developing natural immunity to all kinds of diseases.
• Trimming: shoots damaged by frost are removed.
• Feeding: the main goal is to saturate the garden essential microelements for quality development, resulting in increased fruitfulness of the orchard.

But be sure to include in the care of fruit trees and shrubs providing protection against insects. Traps are installed against beetles, caterpillars and winged and winged insects. These could be fishing belts, bottles with sweet liquid, or water barriers.

Summer work

Summer care behind decorative trees and shrubs, as well as fruit bearing plants, consists of periodically inspecting the garden. This examination may reveal the following problems:

• Insect distribution: measures should be taken to exterminate pests (spraying), and traps should be installed.
• Infection with diseases: To eliminate diseases, plantings are treated with special preparations.
• Micronutrient deficiency: feeding is carried out.
• Lack of moisture: in this case, watering is required.

Sometimes in summer the plants are additionally fed with urea. It saturates the garden with nitrogen, thereby activating vegetation processes.

Don't forget to include in your care garden trees and bushes, harvesting from early honeycomb plants, as well as periodic cleaning: collecting garbage and carrion for further burning. Do not spread rot in the garden, it contributes to the development of putrefactive and fungal diseases.

Taking care in autumn

Now we’ll tell you what events are definitely held in the fall. IN autumn care about plants the following processes are included:

• Whitewash: a desirable event that will provide protection from sunburn in the spring.
• Feeding: plants are saturated with minerals for the winter.
• Spraying: carried out as a preventive measure against rot and fungi.
• Trimming: remove shoots damaged by sunlight and insects.
• Setting up protection from hares and rodents.
• Insulation of boles: This increases winter hardiness.

Caring for trees and shrubs in the fall must include cleaning. All rubbish must be removed from the site and incinerated. Pests can overwinter in fallen leaves, carrion and pruned branches. In addition, garbage is a breeding ground for pathogenic microorganisms.

Let us remind you that all garden work can be performed by professional gardeners. Our experienced specialists will take high-quality and inexpensive care of your plantings! :)

Plants also need care in winter

Caring for trees and shrubs in winter not complicated at all. You only need to periodically add poisonous mouse baits if the previous ones have been successfully consumed by rodents.

If there is a lot of snowfall, shake off the snow from the crowns. Otherwise, when melting, they may break off under the weight of melted snow.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in caring for a garden. Good luck and may your plants prosper and bring gratitude in the form of a lot of delicious fruits!

Caring for trees and shrubs video