Remove the housing on a Janome sewing machine. JANOME sewing machine with oscillating hook

Sewing machine owners trademark Janome knows firsthand about the excellent quality of this sewing equipment and has personally seen this from their own experience. Although sometimes you still have to make minor repairs to the sewing machine Janome machines with your own hands, which consists of replacing the needle or adjusting some units of the unit for more correct and accurate work. But not a single type of mechanical equipment, and especially equipment with electronic filling, is insured against wear or complete failure of some spare parts.

Needless to say, if any breakdown occurs in sewing machine Janome, the most correct solution would be to call a technician to your home or transport the sewing machine to service center to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it effectively. The subsequent reliability of the functioning of the sewing machine directly depends on professionally carried out repairs and adjustments of the sewing equipment.

Our official service has professionally trained employees and all the necessary modern resources, including tools and original spare parts, for carrying out quality repairs Janome sewing machines. A large number of people turned to us for help with repairs and were completely satisfied with the quality of the work performed. According to customers, what they liked most about our service center was the following:

Speed ​​and quality of work related to diagnostics, repair and adjustment of Janome sewing machines;
The service of calling a technician to your home, which allows you to significantly save time and money for our clients, and also not worry about how to deliver the machine to our service center;
Enough low prices for our services, regardless of the complexity of the breakdown or the model of the Janome sewing machine.

Feasibility of carrying out self-repair sewing machine Janome directly depends on the complexity of the breakdown, confidence in the accurate diagnosis of the cause of the problem, as well as the ability to fix it. For example, if the needle in your sewing machine breaks, then it is quite possible to replace it yourself, but if sewing machines began to work unstably or stopped turning on altogether - in this case, it is better not to even try to fix something yourself, since this can completely break the sewing machine, without the possibility of subsequent restoration of functionality.

If, without the proper knowledge and skills, you try to fix an unknown problem yourself, then there is a high probability of further aggravating the breakdown and making its subsequent repair more difficult and expensive. Only a person with experience and sufficient knowledge is able to competently diagnose the cause of the problem and professionally eliminate it. By contacting our service center, you will receive high-quality, qualified assistance in repairing Janome sewing machines from our professionally competent craftsmen.

There are many articles on the site dedicated to repairing sewing machines. However, first of all, these articles are of an informative nature, intended not for amateur craftsmen, but for owners of sewing machines.
From them you will learn how this or that sewing machine works, what breakdowns are possible if you do not follow the operating instructions. And finally, how to perform a simple repair of a sewing machine with your own hands, if it is not possible to go to a workshop.

In this article you will learn how the Janome sewing machine works. What is the difference inexpensive models Janome machines, what kind of breakdowns they encounter and whether it is possible to repair it yourself.

1. Janome sewing machine with swinging hook

This model of Janome sewing machine has an oscillating hook type. This shuttle is used only by Janome, but also by other sewing machine manufacturers. These are cars with an initial price, which can be bought in the range of 4-5 thousand. They are quite reliable and “hardy”, but there are limits to everything, and after we decided to hem several jeans at once on this particular machine (photo), it ended up in our workshop.

Look at the photo. The arrows indicate the nose of the shuttle and the eye of the needle. You can see that when the nose of the shuttle approaches the needle, the eye of the needle is too high and therefore no stitches are formed. This is a very common "breakdown". In quotes because such a failure occurs when the operating rules of any sewing machine are not followed, and Janome is no exception. This is not even a breakdown, but a violation of the parameters of interaction between the shuttle mechanism and the needle. This happens at a time of excessive load. And doing a finishing stitch on the hem of jeans is just that case. The toothed belt connecting the upper and lower shaft “slips by a tooth” and the machine stops forming stitches, although it still works normally. Probably jeans are the biggest “enemy” of all sewing machine manufacturers. How much they undermine the image of any of them. After all, it is jeans that most often put household sewing machines out of action.

To understand why this happens and why jeans cannot be hemmed at household sewing machines count how many layers of fabric are formed at the roughest place (the junction of the seams). From 9 to 12 layers. Take a needle and try to pierce such an area with a hand needle, it is unlikely to work. Only if you hammer the needle.

But let’s return to our Janome sewing machine and try to figure out how such a failure occurred and whether it can be fixed on our own.

Firstly, it must be said that if the machine stops forming stitches normally, gaps appear, or thread breaks, then look at how the nose of the shuttle interacts with the needle.
Remove the presser foot and needle plate. Lay the machine on its side and remove the upper part of the shuttle stroke so that the shuttle remains in its grooves and is not distorted. Now carefully turn the handwheel and bring the nose of the shuttle to the needle. If you find such a “picture” as in this photo, it means that the cause of the malfunction is elsewhere and there is no need to disassemble the machine. The photo shows that the nose of the shuttle fits, as it should, 1.5-2mm above the eye of the needle. If the spout is lower than the ear or level with it, it means that we will have to disassemble the body of the machine in order to gain access to the unit we need.

I do not recommend disassembling modern sewing machines. There is nothing complicated about this, but only for those who know how to do it correctly. In any other case, the desire to use a nail puller always arises. Well, it seems like all the screws are unscrewed, but the case does not come apart. Be careful, you can easily break not only the housing mount, but also the necessary part of the sewing machine.

Each machine uses its own options for attaching the body halves. First you need to carefully study them and discover them. For example, several pieces may be located under the front cover, in the area of ​​the upper thread tensioner, the shuttle mechanism (remove the needle plate).
Further, some of them are “hidden” under plugs that can be easily removed with a knife blade. What else can I recommend? Well, for example, for this model Janome does not need to remove the levers for switching stitch types. By the way, don't forget about the reverse lever when you put the body back together. In general, for a non-specialist it will be much more difficult not to disassemble it, but to assemble it, keep this in mind. Mark where and what screw was located. And if you don’t have a single “extra” screw left, then you have passed the attentiveness test by 5 points.

4. Janome sewing machine structure

If you are going to buy an inexpensive Janome sewing machine, you can look at these photos that clearly demonstrate its structure. This will help you make the right choice.
In the next paragraph you will find out the reason for the malfunction of this sewing machine.

If copier“dry”, its grooves need to be lubricated with thick lubricant.

Check the tension of the electric drive belt. If it is loose, tighten it slightly with the screws that secure the motor to the housing. The belt should not be overtightened; when pressed with a finger, it should bend slightly.

If your machine has “problems” with the tension of the upper thread, most likely the reason is this knot. Raise and lower the presser foot several times and make sure that this lever works correctly. It may need to be adjusted.

Behind the upper thread tensioner there is a housing securing screw. It's easy to unscrew, but not easy to put back. Place the screwdriver on the magnet for half an hour, and then it will be easier to install it.
The tensioner screws should not be unscrewed when removing the housing cover.

The cause of the malfunction was in this node, marked with an arrow. Moreover, this was not discovered immediately. This model of the Janome sewing machine did not have a toothed belt connecting the main shaft to the lower shaft. Instead, a crank mechanism was used. It is quite reliable and can withstand heavy loads, so the search for the cause of the failure was directed in the other direction.

However, it later turned out that while hemming the jeans, the eccentric mounted on the main shaft and transmitting movement to the lower shaft had shifted. As a result, without load, the machine parameters were normal, and no stitching was formed during sewing. The mount for this eccentric is located inside (arrow).
After exhibiting correct parameters interaction of the needle and the nose of the shuttle and subsequent tightening of the eccentric fastening (screw), the breakdown was eliminated.

Janome sewing machines have many different models designed for different categories of customers. There are a number of economy-class sewing machines that are affordable and designed for small sewing and repair of clothes at home.

I will not go into details on how to adjust and configure the sewing machine. JANOME. All adjustments are made as on a company sewing machine PFAFF Hobby422, if anyone is interested in the details, then the complete disassembly, assembly and adjustment of the Hobby422 can be viewed in DVD format on two discs.

But let's return to our JANOME machine, front view, see fig. 1. There are two regulators on the machine arm: the left one (3) is designed to select a program and change the zigzag width; right (4) is used to change the stitch length and switch to stretch stitch

To the left of the control knobs is upper thread tension regulator(2) and on the machine sleeve there is a reverse button (5). The presser foot lift lever (1) is visible at the back.

To begin adjusting the machine, you must first remove all body parts:

• front side cover,
• front,
• side stand cover,
• back,
• lower

To remove the back cover, you must first remove the side and bottom, then the front and lastly the back. Figure 2 shows the screw securing the front and rear covers.

The only difficulty can be caused by removing the back cover. In order to remove it you need to press the machine top part to yourself, holding bottom part of the body product, pull it away from you until it comes off the machine body. Next, pull the entire back cover from left to right until it disengages from the presser foot lift lever.

Attention.Perform this operation very carefully so as not to break plastic case. After removing all the body parts, our machine looks like a top view - fig. 3, front view - fig. 4.

1. Upper thread tension regulator (Thermometer)
2. Automation mechanism
3. Winder
4. Stitch length adjuster slide
5. Electric drive
6. Shuttle housing
7. Needle bar
8. Presser foot rod

If you have already disassembled a Pfaff Hobby class sewing machine or watched a film on disassembling, assembling and setting up this machine, then from the pictures you can see that the machines are almost the same.

Shuttle swing device assembled fig. 5 and disassembled, Fig. 6

Rice. 5 Fig.6

1. Ring pressure lever
2. Pressure ring
3. Shuttle
4. Bobbin case
5. Shuttle pusher
6. Shuttle pusher spring (attached with two screws)
7. Landing socket for the shuttle.

Foot attachment has a lever instead of a button, which serves to remove the presser foot, fig. 7

Thread take-up mechanism and needle bar frame can be seen in Fig. 8. The difference is that this machine has an adjustment mechanism for the buttonhole.

1. Buttonhole lever
2. Pendulum (frame) of the needle bar
3. Leaf spring frame clamp
4. Main shaft eccentric
5. Thread take-up
6. Thread guide screws
7. Thread guide

P.S. When removing the front decorative panel Unscrew both screws and remove the thread guide.

In Fig. Figure 9 shows the machine from the flywheel side. Adjust the engine in such a way that it performs next rule: when pressing in the middle part on the timing belt, the deflection was 1 cm.

Fabric conveyor It is secured with two screws that need to be tightened periodically. In Fig. Figure 10 shows places where dirt and debris accumulate that interfere proper operation SEWING MACHINE. Number 1 marks the tissue conveyor release lever.

Number 1 marks the tissue conveyor release lever.

What I would like to say in conclusion is that the machine is a budget type, works great, easy and intuitive controls. The machine does not require the consumer to have deep knowledge in setting up and repairing. With a correctly adjusted bobbin case, the consumer only needs to make adjustments with a thermometer (upper thread tension regulator). When the thermometer position is within 3-5, the machine should sew well.

2. Close the protective cover, lift the handle and remove the screw to the left of the handle.

3. To remove the cover, press the latch inward at the base of the handle and remove the cover and handle.

B. Removing the side cover

2. Remove the screws from the bottom of the machine A And B. Screw B the smaller of the 2 screws located there.

3. Position the machine upright, and remove the plug from the side cover below the flywheel using a small screwdriver.

4. Remove the screw WITH.

C. Verification

1. After checking the relative position of the parts, look at the upper shaft from the side of the right support, between the support and the shaft limit washer. Check for any darkening or scuffing of the shaft. If there is darkening, the shaft and support bushing must be replaced.

2. Loosen the locking screw on the left end of the upper shaft. Try to move the shaft from left to right. If the shaft does not move, this also indicates that the shaft and bushing must be replaced.

D. Shaft replacement

1. To begin the shaft replacement procedure, place the upper counterweight shaft in front of you so that you can access the locking screw and the positioning washer screw. Note that the single blade on the positioning washer is on the right (remember the position). Remove the fixing screw and the positioning washer screw.

3. Remove the screws A And IN.

4. Remove the thread drive unit (thread take-up unit) and place it behind the machine.

6. Using a hammer and 3.0mm core, remove the pin from the counterweight.

7. Place an impact driver or punch on the end of the top counterweight shaft (see inset). Knock out the shaft to the right about 1.5 cm.

10. Remove the upper shaft. Remove and set aside the retainer, retainer screw, positioning washer and its screw.

11. Lightly tap and use a small screwdriver to knock out the upper shaft bushing towards inside cars. Be careful not to damage the cast parts seats wherein.

12. Install new bushings, install the bushings with the rounded end into the mounting hole...

13. ...make sure the bushing is flush with the seat casting.

14. Remove the retainer, bushing and counterweight onto the new shaft.

15. Remove the flywheel by pulling it out.

17. Remove the balance wheel and the metal and plastic washers.

18. Remove the belt pulley by turning it clockwise and pulling it out.

19. Remove the clutch springs from either end of the shaft ( A) or belt pulley ( B) by rotating clockwise and pulling out.

20. Use a 2.5 mm screwdriver or hexagon to drive out the upper camshaft camshaft pulley pin and remove the pulley, washers and clutch shaft bushing.

22. Remove the shaft from the ring coupling. Use an impact screwdriver...

23. Install the pulley onto the new shaft using a 1.5mm hex driver.

24. Install the oil seal washers, clutch bushing and ring coupling with right side shaft

25. Hold the clutch bushing with a 2.5mm hex screwdriver and position it so that the bushing moves no more than 0.5mm from left to right. Then tighten the 2 clutch screws.

26. Install the clutch springs inside the clutch bushing by rotating the springs clockwise. The spring must be installed in the groove of the clutch bushing.

27. Install the belt pulley by rotating it clockwise until it stops.

28. Install the plastic washer, followed by the metal washer. Install the balance wheel with the flat side facing the belt pulley.

30. Install the flywheel, making sure that the tabs on the flywheel fit into the slots on the balance wheel.

31. Insert the left end of the upper shaft through the belt into the mounting sleeve.

32. Thread the end of the upper shaft through the positioning washer, clamp, seal and counterweight. Remember that the single blade of the positioning washer should be on the right.

34. Move the release lever toward the front of the machine to protect it from impact from the clutch bushing.

35. Install the counterweight pin through the shaft (a 1.5mm hexagonal screwdriver can be used to strike). If the pin does not fit through the shaft, remove the pin, rotate the shaft 180 degrees, and reinstall the pin.

36. Position the machine with the counterweight facing forward. Move the shaft to the right, slide the lock to the left and tighten the lock screw.

37. Place the positioning washer in such a position that it is positioned with a single blade to the right and up. Install the washer and screw, move the positioning washer to the right or left so that the blades pass through the sensor without hitting it. Tighten the screw.

38. Install the winder with screw. Make sure the end of the spring fits into the molding hole as shown in the picture.

41. Place the white thread guide between the two black parts of the thread holder.

42. Secure the thread drive unit with screws A and B.

Settings

1. Remove the presser foot, needle and spool cap plate. Loosen the 2 drive pulley lower shaft screws (2.5mm).

2. Before adjusting the hook, make sure the presser foot is in the down position. Insert the needle from the left.

3. Adjust the hook and needle so that the nose of the hook is approximately 1 mm above the eye of the needle in the left needle position.

4. Tighten the 2 drive pulley lower shaft screws (2.5mm).

5. Install the bobbin case, needle plate and presser foot. Plug in the power cord and turn on the machine. Select a Zig Zag stitch (stitch #8). Turn the handwheel so that the needle begins to swing left and right. The needle should be 7.8 to 8.2 mm above the surface of the needle plate when rolling.

6. As a reference point, the needle should swing at the level of the presser foot when the presser foot is in the raised position.

7. To adjust, loosen the upper shaft positioning washer screw.

8. Turn the positioning washer in direction A if the needle tip is more than 8.2 mm above the needle plate and in direction B if the needle tip is less than 7.8 mm above the needle plate. Tighten the screw.

Installing the Side Cover

3. From the bottom of the machine, install screws A and B. Screw B is the smaller of the 2 screws located there.

Installing the Top Cover

1. To install the cover, press inward at the base of the handle and install the cover together with the handle.

Good luck with the renovation!

All the best, writeto © 2011

The uninterrupted operation of the sewing machine depends on how correctly and on time the lubrication is carried out. Certain parts of the machine can be lubricated without disassembling. But still, some parts cannot be lubricated unless it is disassembled. Before this, the owner needs to understand whether he can carry out the lubrication himself. If he is not completely confident in his technical abilities, then it is best to take the machine to a repair shop or call a technician to your home.

Special screwdrivers and operating instructions. If you are confident, then you need to read the instructions on how to disassemble a Janome sewing machine. After careful reading, you can proceed step by step using the screwdrivers that are included in the package. If they are lost, then you need to find the kit sheet and find out what screwdrivers are needed. After purchasing them, you can carefully begin disassembling them.

Special machine oil and the instruction manual - this must be kept nearby when disassembling the machine. After disassembly, you need to read the part of the manual that concerns lubrication and figure out how to lubricate a Janome sewing machine. If everything is clear, then you can start lubrication according to the illustrations and step by step actions. It needs to be produced only with special oil, which should be included in the kit. If it is not there or it has run out, you need to purchase exactly the same one.

It is also worth mentioning how to thread a Janome sewing machine correctly so that you don’t have to disassemble it later. This is completely easy if you have instructions and high-quality sewing threads. Self-disassembly of a sewing machine to remove heavily tangled thread is quite simple. To do this, according to the illustrations and tips, the bobbin part is gradually disassembled and reassembled in the reverse order.

You also need to know how to set up a Janome sewing machine correctly, so as not to overload it in operating mode and not lead to disassembly and repair. If at some point the machine stops sewing, breaks the thread, and lubrication does not give any results, you can disassemble the sewing mechanism. But only if the warranty on the machine has expired. Any tampering or disassembly of the mechanism other than the bobbin part may void the warranty.

How to choose the right Janome sewing machine depends on how much the owner likes disassembling equipment. If the owner is a supporter of self-repair, then he should choose a simpler model, which will be easier to disassemble and assemble. In general, you can disassemble anything yourself. Collecting it is a completely different matter. Therefore, in case of serious breakdowns, it is better to trust the equipment to professionals rather than experiment.