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What you need for bas-relief at home. DIY bas-relief on the wall: step-by-step actions for beginners

What you need for bas-relief at home. DIY bas-relief on the wall: step-by-step actions for beginners

A bas-relief is a conventionally three-dimensional design that decorates the interior, and sometimes external walls houses or apartments. Unlike frescoes and sculptures, bas-relief is made directly on the wall, thanks to which it fits much more organically into the interior or exterior of the house. In this article we will tell you what tools, knowledge and skills are needed to create a bas-relief, and also give detailed instructions to create such decoration that will allow you to independently decorate your home with various paintings.

What skills are needed to create a bas-relief

To create a bas-relief you will need the following skills:

  • paint;
  • create three-dimensional images;
  • work with alabaster and gypsum solutions;
  • create stencils and work with them;
  • work with wire and create structures from it.

Any bas-relief is a partially three-dimensional picture, which should create a feeling of a three-dimensional picture. If these are leaves and flowers, then they should not be two-dimensional, but create the illusion of volume. If this is a more complex image, then it should create the illusion of full volume. Therefore, without the ability to create three-dimensional images and draw beautifully, it is better not to even try to make bas-reliefs, because later you will have to eliminate the consequences of your creativity. No less important is the ability to work with gypsum and alabaster solutions, because it is necessary to clearly know the lifetime of the solution, the optimal density parameters for various works, the ability to mix with dyes.

After all, to create a bas-relief, you need solutions that, although slightly, differ in thickness. The ability to create stencils is very important, because without them it is very difficult to outline the contours of a future painting, especially if you do not have great artistic talents and a highly qualified plasterer-painter. To create three-dimensional images with a thickness of over 10 mm, and when incorrect selection the density and viscosity of the solution is 5 mm, it is necessary to create a frame that will prevent cracking of gypsum or alabaster.

Tools

To work you will need:

  • paint brushes of various shapes and sizes, including paint brushes;
  • palette knives; sculptural stacks of different sizes;
  • trowel;
  • measuring spoons;
  • container for mixing putty;
  • hammer drill with a set of drills for wood and concrete;
  • flathead and Phillips screwdrivers;
  • pliers;
  • clean rags;
  • powerful light source;
  • strong trestles or scaffolding;
  • overalls, respirator and safety glasses.

Preparing the wall

Wall preparation includes two stages:

  1. Alignment;
  2. Primer.

During leveling, you plaster the wall with sand-cement mortar, then level it with gypsum or alabaster putties to give it the necessary evenness. If you want to make a bas-relief on wooden wall, then you will have to first fix the reinforcing mesh, then plaster it. Be sure to use beacons (guides that help make the surface level). For primer, use acrylic, alabaster or gypsum compositions with a high sand content - this will create the necessary surface roughness and improve the adhesion of solutions to create a bas-relief. Use only those primers that say they are suitable for alabaster and clay compounds. It is very convenient to apply the primer with a paintbrush due to its large width. When priming the wall surface, do not leave drips, because after drying they will be difficult to remove, and left drips will negatively affect the appearance of the bas-relief.

There are no clear recommendations for creating bas-reliefs, because each master uses the combination of actions that is most convenient for him. Some create a bas-relief directly on the wall, others first cast its elements in plaster or alabaster, then fit them into the overall design of the painting. Some create a pseudo-volumetric image with a thin layer of solution, while others create completely three-dimensional paintings 30 or more centimeters thick. It all depends on the qualifications, artistic taste and talent of the master. However, we will give one recommendation - in order to improve your skills and not spoil the wall, create a bas-relief on a piece of plywood, chipboard or OSB, which after completion of the work can be hung on the wall. If something goes wrong and you ruin the bas-relief, then take a new piece of plywood and practice on it.

Below we will describe several techniques that will help you create beautiful bas-reliefs:

  • working with stencils;
  • the use of sculpted stacks, cutters and loops;
  • mold casting;
  • fastening the wire frame to the wall;
  • working with film.

Working with stencils

For the stencil, you can either draw it yourself or download it from the Internet and print it on paper. After this, you need to decide on the stencil material and its thickness, as well as the manufacturing method, so we recommend using ready-made stencils that can be purchased in stores selling decorative goods. A stencil is necessary to create the contours of the future painting, after which you can use stacks to give these contours the desired volume. Working with a stencil is not difficult - place it on the wall and fix it in any way, then fill it with thick gypsum or alabaster mortar. Remember, the thicker the stencil, the thicker the solution should be. If you use too thin a solution, then after removing the stencil the contours of the bas-relief will be blurred, so it is advisable to practice on the board first so that you do not have to prepare the wall again.

Using sculpt stacks, cutters and loops

You can purchase these tools from the appropriate stores. If you have good spatial awareness and artistic skills, you can use these tools effectively even without being a professional sculptor. After all, with their help, excess mortar is removed, giving a certain area of ​​the bas-relief the desired shape. Using these tools, you can create any three-dimensional images, it all depends on your imagination, artistic taste and spatial imagination. These tools will not be superfluous when creating volumetric bas-reliefs, because with their help you can trim the edges, giving each layer of mortar the necessary shapes.

Mold casting

The use of pre-cast molds greatly simplifies the creation of three-dimensional compositions. For example, leaves are cast in molds, which are then attached to the wall to create the trunk and branches of a tree. The result is that the trunk and branches are part of the wall, and the leaves are separate, which improves the visual perception of the bas-relief and the effect it produces. Stores sell silicone and polyurethane molds of all sizes and designs. To create a bas-relief, it is necessary not only to cast molds from plaster or alabaster, but also to make a reinforcing frame inside them - this will prevent cracking of the resulting part and make it easier to attach to the wall, because not only glue or putty, but also wire will hold the part.

Some forms need to be lubricated with castor oil (this should be written in the instructions for the form), other forms do not need such an operation. To pour into molds, you need to use a much thinner solution than to work directly on the wall. In most cases, the solution is made similar in thickness to liquid sour cream, which allows for high-quality filling of the mold and ensures good strength of the part. The metal frame can be inserted into the mold either before or after pouring plaster or alabaster, both methods provide the same strength, so it all depends on personal preference.

Attaching the wire frame to the wall

The wire frame allows not only to attach heavy hanging decoration elements, but also to prevent cracking of plaster and alabaster if the layer is too thick (over 7–10 mm), making it possible to create figures of great thickness. The thickness of the wire depends on the place of its application and purpose - for fastening external decorative elements use steel wire 2–3 mm thick. It has high strength and rigidity, thanks to which it effectively holds external structure before the gypsum or alabaster coating dries. To reinforce parts of large thickness, you can use steel wire 0.7–2 mm thick, which has less rigidity and weight, so it is easier to work with. To attach the wire to the wall, it is convenient to use dowel-nails, for which a hole is drilled under the dowel using a hammer drill, then 1 turn of wire is wound onto a plastic clip and the dowel-nail is driven in until it stops. If you are attaching the wire to a wooden wall, then the technology is different - 1 turn of wire is wound on a self-tapping screw with wood carving, after which it is screwed into the wall until it stops. If necessary (if you have to use a self-tapping screw of great length/thickness or the walls are made of hard wood), a hole with a diameter 2 times smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw is drilled in the wall, which makes it easier to screw it in, but does not weaken the fixation in the wall.

Working with film

The film is used to create pseudo-volumetric compositions on a layer of asbestos or alabaster plaster of small thickness. First, a drawing on a scale of 1:1 is applied to the film with a marker, then a layer of plaster 3–6 mm thick is applied to the selected section of the wall and the film is placed on top, orienting the drawing in space. After this, trace the contours of the design with a pen and remove the film, and the design remains on the layer of plaster. Now you can use stacks to remove excess, creating the selected pattern and giving it volume.

When gypsum and alabaster come into contact with the skin, they dry it out excessively, so it is advisable to work with rubber gloves. In addition, be sure to use safety glasses to protect you from getting plaster or putty in your eyes. When dosing the solution, pouring it into a mixing container and stirring, wear a respirator - it is not very convenient to work in it, but if you spill the solution or otherwise raise dust, it will protect your bronchi and lungs from damage.

To create a beautiful bas-relief, you need to properly organize the workflow. A powerful light source will help detect the slightest imperfections, so you can easily correct them before the mixture hardens.

If the defect is discovered after the mixture has hardened, then it will be much more difficult to eliminate it, because the hardened plaster or alabaster will have to be processed not with stacks, loops or hooks, but with sandpaper. You must learn to “by eye” determine the amount of solution that you can process before it hardens, otherwise you will constantly throw out the frozen excess. The lifetime of the solution depends on its composition and is indicated on the packaging; the optimal ratio of the dry mixture and water is also indicated there, so correctly determine the amount of solution required for a particular operation, and also adjust its thickness by changing the amount of water. Clear understanding required quantity and the thickness of the solution comes only with experience, so first practice on pieces of plywood or chipboard and don’t worry if something doesn’t work out, over time you will learn.

Three-dimensional images on the wall can become an original interior decoration. Unlike moldings (overhead decorative elements), they are created only by hand. Making a high-quality bas-relief is painstaking work, but if you have a strong desire and at least basic modeling skills, you can create it yourself. Beginning craftsmen can use stencils.

Materials and tools

To create a bas-relief you will need:
sketch of the future image;
pencil, marker;
plastic sheets for creating stencils;

Stencil for bas-relief

Masking tape;
colors or paints for gypsum solutions (if the bas-relief is colored);
paint brush;
palette knives: steel or plastic spatulas used to create textured and relief images;


Palette knives

Plaster, plaster, clay, alabaster or other plastic material.


Mixing plaster

Creating a Sketch

Even if the work will be done using stencils, it is necessary to make a life-size sketch of it to check how the design will fit with the rest of the decor of the room. It may need to be adjusted - remove excess or, on the contrary, add details to fill some voids. The finished drawing is transferred onto tracing paper or thin film.


Transferring an image to film

For beginners, it is better not to use too voluminous images with multi-stage relief. A large flower or a composition of several flowers, fruits or berries, branches with leaves, simple outlines of animals, birds, etc. will look quite original on the wall.


A three-dimensional image can consist of several simple details transferred to the wall using a stencil

Surface preparation

The bas-relief is made on a pre-leveled and plastered surface. To increase adhesion to plaster or plaster, it primed at least 2 times. Indoors with high humidity It is better to use an antifungal composition.

To prevent the wall from looking perfectly flat, you can apply a base of acrylic putty or satengypsum(fine-grained gypsum). To obtain a relief surface, after applying the solution, the wall is processed with a roller or spatula using chaotic strokes. A rather original and convex pattern can be obtained even with the help of crumpled paper or film.


Obtaining a relief surface using crumpled film


Venetian plaster


Creating an uneven surface using a spatula

Looks very original bas-relief with backlight. In order not to damage the image or cover it with dust, it is better to install lamps for it in advance.


Volumetric image on the wall with backlight


Bas-relief lamp

Making a bas-relief

1. To transfer sketch on the wall, you should attach a carbon copy to it, and then attach the drawing on top with masking tape. The gluing areas are then carefully rubbed down.

2. You can transfer the sketch to the wall in another way. To do this, a small layer of solution is applied to it, a drawing is applied, and its outline is outlined using a palette knife with a pointed end, a match or a toothpick.

3. If the bas-relief is voluminous, it is better to twist it in the thickest places of the image self-tapping screws. They will act as reinforcement, preventing the image from crumbling.

4. Material for stencils should be thick enough. Moreover, the larger the bas-relief, the thicker the stencil should be. It should be removed very carefully so as not to damage the image. A damaged bas-relief can be corrected at any time.

Advice. Small irregularities and blemishes can be removed after the plaster or plaster has completely dried. To do this, you should walk along the edges of the picture with fine sandpaper.

5. Convex images can also be obtained by mounting on walls cardboard blanks or pieces of polystyrene foam followed by coating with a solution. It will hold more firmly if the workpieces are pre-treated with a primer.


The blank for the bas-relief can be secured with self-tapping screws

6. Extra strength large elements images can be created using a regular or plaster bandage soaked in a solution. You can buy it at any pharmacy.


Plaster bandage

7. Plaster, gypsum or alabaster are diluted with water according to the instructions. The solution is thoroughly mixed.

8. The solution is applied to the wall in several layers. Each subsequent layer should be performed after the previous one has completely dried.


Drawing an image using a palette knife

9. The convex parts are rolled out with your fingers, and then attached to the wall, slightly pressed down and leveled.


Bas-relief grapes

10. It is better to make the last layer of the image from finishing (fine) putty, which can be easily sanded.

11. Drawing small lines and sealing cracks is done upon completion of all work.

12. Thin veins on leaves and flowers can be applied using a medical syringe.

13. The finished drawing is covered with a primer. This finishing coat will not allow the plaster or plaster to crumble.

Advice. To prevent the bas-relief from cracking when drying, it should be periodically moistened with a damp brush.


Entrance door decoration

14. You can color the image in the most different ways: how to add colors for acrylic paints directly into the solution, or by applying paints for gypsum mortars using an art brush. Excess paint is removed with a damp sponge.


Image coloring

Advice. You can get subtle color transitions by applying paint to a still wet bas-relief.


Finished image

Terra technique

Working with this technique does not require any special skills. You just need to stock up in advance dry branches, herbs, flowers or ears of corn. You can also use sand, cereals, noodles, small pebbles, etc.

On primed PVA glue wall (it should be diluted in a 1: 1 ratio), using the same PVA, a composition of dry plants is pressed. After the composition has completely dried, the design is covered with glue several more times, and then treated with acrylic paint or finishing putty.

Advice. If you treat foliage and flowers that have not yet yellowed with glycerin, they can be preserved. In this case, you can create real colored paintings from herbs and leaves on the wall. To prevent them from crumbling, they are treated several times with PVA glue.


Bas-relief of sunflowers treated with glycerin

Most owners of apartments and private houses dream of ensuring that their home reflects the individuality of the owner, that it has a different design and, as they say, “with a twist.” But for this you can simply create a bas-relief on the wall. Such a solution will absolutely transform the room and bring something new into it.

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What could a bas-relief on a wall look like?

As they say, there is no arguing with taste. Depending on the design solution the bas-relief on the wall can be very simple. For example, baguettes of paintings of different sizes look respectable.


Modest luxury emanates from the bas-reliefs, which are located on panels placed as edging at the top of the wall.


Some are inclined to decorate the wall with a floral bas-relief.


Such decorations look luxurious in combination with lighting.


The originality of the room will be given by a bas-relief on the wall, made with your own hands in the form of a corner of nature: a tree trunk, part of a rock, a park, the shore of a reservoir.


The most complex are the three-dimensional plot paintings.


They usually occupy either an entire wall or a corner of the room.


What if it doesn't work out?

Many creative people get a tingling sensation in their hands when they see the bas-relief on the wall in front of them, captured in the photo. But fear prevents you from starting to realize your desires: what if nothing happens? It will work, it will definitely work! And the master class offered here will help in implementing the creator’s plan. By following the step-by-step instructions and applying diligence, even those who do not have skills in sculptural modeling will be able to cope with the goal.


There are options when a bas-relief is immediately made on the wall. In this case, the master sculpts a sculptural picture from a plaster mixture with his own hands, checking his creation with the sketch. However, this method is more suitable experienced craftsmen of your business. For those taking only their first steps in this field, you should not immediately take on monumental work. Yes, and correcting errors in this case can be quite difficult.


Let's consider the option when the bas-relief on the wall is first made separately by casting in molds, and then attached in finished form. In this case, you must first prepare a silicone mold for casting parts. And the first step will be a master class in making molds for casting plaster parts for the bas-relief. With their help, you can create an imitation of ancient stucco molding, picture frames, and ornaments.

Master class on making molds for casting gypsum parts for bas-relief

Silicone molds are considered the best. To make them, you can use several options.

Silicone sealant

In this case, simply cover the sample to be replicated with the mass from the tube, having previously lubricated it with soap solution or fat. Sometimes a mold is required to cast not a whole object, but only a part of it. Then the unnecessary part is buried in clay, plasticine, salt dough - in a material that can then be easily removed without spoiling the object.


First, a layer is applied to the sample, carefully working out the fine details. Then the structure is allowed to dry thoroughly and covered with a second even layer. The mold is then carefully removed from the sample.

However, as a result of these manipulations, a very fragile product is obtained. Such forms can rarely be used more than 2 times.

Filled silicone

Therefore, experts advise making a so-called dough from one part of starch or talc and the same amount of sealant.

A pile of filler is poured onto the board. A certain amount of sealant is poured into the middle and kneaded thoroughly in the same way as regular dough. You can use a container and make a mass in it.


To make a mold, the sample is pressed into a piece of silicone mass. Before use, the sample is lubricated with soapy water or grease.


Using such a mixture, it is tightly sealed around the sample, trying to prevent air bubbles and voids. The structure is dried for about a day.

Silicone compounds

Taking, for example, “Silagerm-7000”, a master can easily prepare the material for making a mold using the instructions supplied with it.


To do this, a hardener is added to the main mass.


Mix the mixture thoroughly.

Then take a box without gaps, a container or a bowl. The size and shape of the container depends on what the sample part is.

Before pouring silicone, the original is pre-lubricated with wax, fat or soap solution so that ready product could then be easily removed without damage.

The part from which it is planned to create a mold for casting is placed at the bottom of the container. Carefully pour the resulting composition so that it completely covers the part.


If the mold should not be removed from the whole original, but only from its part, you should first pour the silicone mixture into the container, and then lower the object into it, immersing it as much as the master’s plan requires.


The container is tightly closed. To do this, you can use a piece of glass.


After 15 minutes you can take it out ready-made form. You just have to check whether the silicone compound sticks to your fingers.

If the master wants to create a bas-relief according to his own plans, the master class “How to make a template for a mold with your own hands” will help him in this.

Plaster bas-relief on the wall using silicone molds

In order to cast a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands, you need to prepare the necessary:

  • · pure form;
  • · gypsum;
  • · water;
  • · lubricant

Apply lubricant to the dry area of ​​the mold with a brush. It is prepared from vegetable oil, in which the wax was melted in a water bath.

Gypsum (it is better to take GVVS-18, intended for artistic modeling) are diluted according to the recipe included in the package. Water should be used room temperature. Under no circumstances should it be added to cement or sand, plaster or other material!


To ensure that there are no air bubbles in the cast part, the master first applies inner part forms with plaster composition, and then fills it all.


To prevent the formation of air voids in the product, the form and contents must be vibrated for some time. You can achieve this effect by covering the mold with corrugated glass and moving it along the surface for a couple of minutes.

Usually the recipe indicates the time required for the product to dry completely. But it is worth noting that in in this case It is better to wait than to remove the part prematurely.


After the specified time has passed, the master carefully removes the bas-relief part from the mold.


They attach it to the wallusing acrylic plaster, diluted to the thickness of sour cream or acrylic glue. You can also glue small bas-relief parts using PVA.

This is interesting! Instead of plaster, you can use papier-mâché paste. Both the figures and the bas-relief turn out no worse than plaster ones.

DIY bas-relief on the wall - video

Using this material, you can make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands. The site also has a master class “How to make a swing with your own hands” with step by step photos and video.

Do not rush! Make me feel better, drop a few words in the comments!

And the site also has killer materials that will definitely interest people whose hands grow from where they need to.

Here are collected ideas on how you can please your loved ones by changing something in the interior.

To help craftswomen it is offered detailed master class making a charming doll from tights - a cute and original craft.

Once upon a time, decorating the interior with stucco molding and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is just a matter of labor and patience. Advances in modern technology make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an artistic education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in Fig. Below, it is quite possible for a patient and attentive amateur.

Bas-reliefs of modern work

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name “acrylic plasters”. You can learn how to increase the volume of a bas-relief with construction putty compounds from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Hobbyists also use a basic composition of architectural plaster, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 by volume. The gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and sealed with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not the other way around. Bring to a dough consistency like yogurt or low-fat kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The thickness of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). Low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except very dim, and high relief looks better in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In living spaces, which are often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the bas-relief “Klimt Tree”, see for example. Master class video below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt’s Tree”



The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: At one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition “Tree of Life”. Her style is so unique that the expression “Klimt tree” has become popular.

Reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the top figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut in depth), which is technically much more complex. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, lower right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and minute protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When the direction and angle of incidence of light changes, the pattern changes, even changing facial expressions throughout the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: the protrusions and depressions become clogged and lose their shape when cleaned. The drawing fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:

  • Plastering of free ones, i.e. models that were not initially fixed to the supporting surface and cannot be removed;
  • Plastering of non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because... allow you to receive the corresponding high and low relief, without risking the need to redo the whole work again in case of failure;
  • Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more labor-intensive, but also suitable for beginners, because... You can pore over the model as much as you like until it is perfect. In addition, in one mold (form, mold) made according to a model, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast at home;
  • Artistic plaster stucco in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires thorough skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels covering the entire wall, with contours around corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - plasterboard sheet, GKL. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), on separate sheets or pieces thereof the desired shape parts of the overall picture or complete compositions are brought out (see fig.), and mounted on a leveled wall.

Relief panels

The fastener heads and joints of the fragments are puttied with a base compound, then plastered and rubbed to match the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece damaged due to inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. The bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; It is impossible to attach a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, PHB partitions, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the load-bearing base must be stronger than the material compositions.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can’t count on success without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once if you turn it inside out, and the dried remains fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball eliminates wasted time on shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from a ball, because... There are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Tools for making bas-reliefs from gypsum

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 pieces (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For forming bunches of grapes, scales, etc. Convex-concave spatulas are also needed. Sets with these are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so amateurs often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just create low relief with spoons; the bend of the handle gets in the way. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons made of aluminum and other ductile metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, you get a concave spatula.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To obtain concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter near the scoop, twisted and bent while heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use it to clean old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a fine texture. A palette knife can be perfectly replaced with a wide shoe knife.

Next necessary tool– a confectionery syringe with nozzles (items 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly advisable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (item 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are not nearly as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, we’ve all seen how to decorate cakes) by holding it with both hands; Hold the instrument at the tip with your left hand.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes different sizes and the same number of round ones, the cheapest, made of ox-ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrel and kolin for bas-relief “for the sake of coolness”, they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with and caring for the tool

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before adding the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working part are the key to spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered into water in parts; Palette knives and brushes are also placed there. When the instrument becomes acidic, the remaining working materials are thoroughly washed off it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for pastry syringe after working on the bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be stored absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

Creating a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on plasterboard sheets, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

  • The base surface is cleaned of old finishing, leveled with an accuracy of no worse than 2 mm/m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for prefabricated bas-relief does not require leveling;
  • The background texture is applied to the base coating: with a foam rubber or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, no texture or toning required;
  • In one way or another (from those indicated above and described below), the relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, tinting is possible similar to that for the base;
  • If necessary, the relief is painted over the top when completely dry. It is convenient to do surface painting with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very subtle halftones with a damp sponge. Acrylic paints will give sharper color transitions;
  • The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). The colors on dried gypsum stucco fade, like on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
  • After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tint stucco?

From the video above it is clear that the stucco bas-relief needs to be formed in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, apply thin layers, 1-2 mm each. Typically, layers of thick, low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for plaster; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree they take a brown pigment of ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves they add green pigment as they move outward. The next layer is applied to the set but still wet previous one. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with zero-grit sandpaper or, rough on large areas, wire brush. For more information on tinting gypsum stucco, see the following video.

Video: how to cover a bas-relief on a wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using an inverted plate or bowl greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The base solution described above is not used. It is durable, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not used due to excessive consumption of material; ready-made elements paint.

For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural plaster is prepared. The model is dipped in it ( artificial flower, napkin) and place it on a board covered with plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution has set, dip it again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Drying artificial flowers during the gypsum process

Flowers for drying are placed in the same position each time. In this way, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream thickness or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering on site

This is perhaps the most affordable way make, say, a molded lampshade for a chandelier (see figure) without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and then plastered with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, up to 10-15 or more layers will be required.

Stucco lampshade for chandelier

The main problem here is the material of the model. They are usually made from polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but still, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown irremovable stains begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, it is best to sculpt models for on-site plastering from salted dough, the same dough from which you make your own Christmas tree decorations. For plaster, stone and other mineral building materials salty dough glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding based on non-removable salt dough models retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, allowing you to obtain results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic procedure for reverse casting from plaster is shown step by step on the left in the figure, pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, in order to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with film.

Reverse casting from plaster

Then the model is coated with a thin layer of lanolin. It is not advisable to use medical Vaseline; the model may stick to the mold. A plaster and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing the lanolin to soak in for an hour or two, until a solid greasy sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough thickness, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The set and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with ties 7 made of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 in a layer up to 5 or more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a time of gaining 3/4 of the strength with cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions) the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered with film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The burr is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its internal edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. The mold is filled with the casting mass layer by layer. As soon as she last layer starts to set, eyes with whiskers are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), by which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyes can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already firmly seated in the penultimate layer, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to test the firmness of the lugs by shaking them!

Currently for runs up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way they do not cast from plaster; the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). Model prepared as before. case, pour silicone layer by layer, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to produce castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.

Mini gypsum reverse casting

Also, small rounded plaster parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., even small fish. In this case, a flask tray is sculpted from plasticine, and the model is also sculpted from plasticine. The silicone is poured into the flask all at once; The flask and the model are not coated with anything. Once the silicone has hardened, the mold is simply torn off and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini – reverse casting of plaster.

...and not the other way around

In plaster mini-casting, a removable model is already used; I mean, the model disappears and needs to be made again for the next batch of castings. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting using a lost wax model, then from it it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings, but convex ones, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood with a height 2-3 cm greater than the height of the model and a size such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a board covered with film. Then they place the flask and cover the gap at the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as in the previous one. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the mold is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, fill the plywood bottom. The model is melted with a household hairdryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not provide.

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can purchase them without enrolling in an evening department at an art university or courses. Just practice with plasticine; The technique is the same, only when working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, plaster modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

The technique of flat plaster modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules here are like this. First, the material of thick dough or rich sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the set but still wet previous one. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to smaller tools. And fifth, in each layer the work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the leaf teeth to its petiole.

Low plaster casting

It is best to remove branches on bas-reliefs with a pastry syringe or, very thin ones, with a medical syringe. The thickness of the branches is adjusted by pressing harder and weaker on the piston (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plaster, like a non-removable model in place.

Branches on bas-reliefs made of plaster

Very twisty branches (item 2) can be obtained by soaking the cord or twine in gypsum mortar thickness of sour cream, laid out on a board covered with film along the contour, and when dry, pasted on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, lay out the cord immediately, it will dry firmly. To obtain branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then left alone. If the cord is visible through the plaster, the branch is gypsumed in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted mixtures. The desired color is obtained by grouting with sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

You've probably seen sharp ribs in pictures with bas-reliefs. They are formed by folding the thumb and forefinger, and the thumbs by folding the fingers of both palms bent back. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly moving/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion as the rib is formed. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course on the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is a discipline not of medical, but of artistic education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not inclined to the subtleties and rigors of science.

The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded onto the frame as shown in pos. 1 pic. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (item 2), but respecting the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (items 4a and 4b). It is advisable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with securing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

  • The basic frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together by winding thin copper wire, or even better - by soldering.
  • In a liquid plaster solution, like low-fat kefir, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plaster casting broken limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off poorly from the skein, it means that the plaster has begun to harden and the rest of the roll goes to waste.
  • Once the plaster frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), the shape and texture are adjusted with tools and sandpaper, and it is plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is branches of the main branches, covered with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are sculpted separately; the location is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If per 1 sq. dm. its supporting area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels, are best suited for this. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten off. The bas-relief mass above the protruding fastening peg should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need for this is a piece of plasterboard with a layer of fresh base solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. You need to carefully remove the flash from the edges of the nail tip to get a regular 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: using a nail with a slight slope, we prick even rows of holes in a checkerboard pattern and close to each other along the still plastic gypsum board coating. The inclination of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its tip relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetrical.

The next step is to take the sample on a straight line sunlight and, turning this way and that, and in some other way, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how the holes should be pricked to create a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will discover a talent for this rare, but extremely effective art - shadow bas-relief.

This design technique is often used to decorate private houses, where the layout includes. In this case, the decor can act not only in the form, but also as a pattern that surrounds the fireplace. In addition, this interior decoration will look great in door and window openings, the main thing here is to choose right size and texture. Aerobatics is a decorative bas-relief, which will include the presence of lighting. It will make the images more voluminous, creating the impression of 3D graphics.

An important point about using relief decor on the wall is that it does not necessarily require the presence of different colors, as is the case with ordinary painting. The main thing here is to choose the lighting wisely; this will allow you to highlight different edges of the image, using only artificial lighting, as shown in the photo.

There is a misconception that decorating a house with elements of bas-relief inserts is too expensive pleasure. In fact, how to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands is quite accessible for beginners. Enough to follow clearly step by step guide, which is presented below. It is supplemented with a video that will allow you to answer many questions that arise during the work.

DIY bas-relief master class for beginners

People who are far from renovation often mistakenly think that such artistic decor is a prefabricated structure, the elements of which are cast from plaster. In fact, it is made by hand, and in essence is a truly original and unique work of art. Each bas-relief is unique in itself, even if the same sketch is used to create it. In principle, creating a three-dimensional drawing on the wall requires certain skills and abilities, as well as careful adherence to technology, however, even beginners can cope with the task.

First you need to decide on the material to create the decor. In this process you can use various options, for example, plaster, gypsum, alabaster and even clay. However, if you are new to this activity, it is better to start working exclusively with plaster. As a last resort - gypsum-based plaster.

Master class Do-it-yourself bas-relief of a flower from gypsum putty video

After choosing the material, you should begin to create the so-called base, in which the decorative bas-relief on the wall will be created. To do this you need to collect wooden box with low sides, which will require several slats and plywood as a bottom. The dimensions of the resulting box will coincide with the dimensions of the future decor; this should be taken into account when assembling it. Any box that has rigid walls and a base can replace the box.

The base of the box should be covered with film, and it is necessary that there are no folds on it, or you should try to keep their number to a minimum. Then you need to start preparing the solution, which should be carried out exclusively according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The finished solution is poured into the mold. For tall designs you will need reinforcement wire. After pouring the mixture into the box, leave it alone for initial drying; the duration of this period depends entirely on the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Bas-relief in the interior photo in the apartment

Now you can proceed directly to making the bas-relief with your own hands. The main condition here is to create the outline of the future ornament, which then needs to be filled with a mixture, which in turn will be prepared anew. The volume of future decor should be increased step by step, while allowing each previous layer to dry thoroughly. You can draw contours on the surface using a film, covering the surface with it, after which the film is removed.

Master class for beginners Wood bas-relief video

Plaster would be a very good material, since it is very convenient to work with it while it is wet. Due to the pliability of the material, it will be quite possible to remove excess plaster, as well as adjust the shape of the future pattern. Also, plaster that is not dry enough is easily sanded. You should not try to perform several layers at once, since hardening of each segment is a prerequisite.

In addition, the guide to "creating wall art for beginners" includes the ability to create recesses in the future wall panel. The recess is created in two available ways:

  • Cutting through the material and removing some of it from the finished model using a chisel.
  • Building up the background around a specific point, which ends up being lower.

Most often, a flower is chosen as the basis for the image on the bas-relief, usually a lily or a tulip. Creating a lily with your own hands may initially seem like too difficult a task, but in fact, even a beginner can do this process. It is important to follow every step of the process, which guarantees the creation of a successful relief.

Bas-relief paintings on the walls design photo

Often, lilies are applied directly to the wall, without creating a base in the form of a box. In this case, it is imperative to completely cover the remaining elements of the interior using masking tape to avoid damage. Next, the future base of the drawing must be covered with putty, and then, after waiting for it to dry, apply a primer. It is advisable to use the so-called primer paint as a primer, because due to its properties it allows you to obtain maximum adhesion to the elements of the decorative bas-relief in the future. This composition dries in about three hours.

Marseilles wax is applied with a trowel, which is a quickly hardening material suitable for the starting step. Using a film secured over the entire surface of the future bas-relief, details should be drawn. When securing the film, do not forget to be able to bend it freely; to do this, one edge should be left free.

Bas-relief on the wall in the interior photo in the apartment

Initially, you can outline the outline of the future drawing on the film using a marker. After that, having peeled back the film, you should follow the resulting marks to draw the future lily using the same Marseilles wax, which will be the most successful material if the painting is done directly on the wall, without using a backing.

Typically, the wax used in the work is white. To diversify the bas-relief, you can later cover the frozen flower a certain composition. However, the main task of the master is to give the bas-relief maximum realism. Acrylic paints can be used as the final layer of decorative finishing for the lily. We must not forget about the finishing layer, which must be used to draw each element of the composition.

Master class on how to create a flower on the wall video lesson

As you can see from the guide above, a bas-relief on a wall is an interesting, but labor-intensive process to create it with your own hands. Beginning craftsmen will need a little perseverance and attention, as well as strict adherence to technology. The important thing here is to stock up on attention and the necessary tools.

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