JANOME sewing machine with swinging hook. Do-it-yourself Janome sewing machine repair What you need for work

Finding out or at least seeing a photo of how a modern sewing machine works is not only educational, but also useful. Be sure to read this series of articles dedicated to repairing modern household sewing machines. Visual representation about the structure of a sewing machine will help you do right choice when purchasing it, and will also make you treat it more carefully later.

Disassemble modern sewing machine It’s quite difficult to do it yourself, but in most cases you won’t have to do it. But there are still cases when you have to disassemble the sewing machine yourself. For example, when you need to replace an electric drive, a stitch does not form, the needle breaks, etc., and there is no way to go to a workshop, since there is simply none in your city or town.

In this article you will learn how to properly disassemble (remove) plastic lids a modern household sewing machine, an ordinary inexpensive model from Brother, Janome or any other.

1. What tools are needed

Almost all models of modern economy-class household machines are assembled in China and therefore, in order to disconnect the plastic parts of the case, you only need Phillips screwdrivers. One screwdriver should have a Phillips slot for medium-sized screws and one a little more powerful, even with a flat slot.

Screws on cars made in Europe (sometimes made in Taiwan) often have some peculiarity. They can only be unscrewed with a special screwdriver (star) with a special slot. First, look at what kind of screwdriver you can use to unscrew the housing mount; you may have to buy one specially for this in the store.
This photo shows the types of modern screwdrivers and screws. By the way, we will be disassembling the sewing machine in the foreground. It's called "Dragonfly" - China. Its body is assembled with ordinary cross-shaped screws.

2. Before disassembling the machine

First, remove all parts that do not require special tools. Start with the removable table, then remove the tab. Remove the needle plate. To do this, use a flat-head screwdriver to unscrew just one screw (sometimes two). Naturally, you need to remove the bobbin and the plastic hook or bobbin case, remove the spool, and in order to avoid injury, it does not hurt to remove the needle.
Now you need to unscrew the screw indicated by the arrow in the photo and carefully remove the front cover. There is a special latch at the top of the lid; you need to disengage it before “pulling it out” by force.

All screws do not need to be put in one “pile”. When you start putting it back together, it will be difficult for you to determine which screw was placed where. Therefore, mark them in any way convenient for you. For example, you can place a piece of paper with a note next to each screw(s).

3. We begin to disassemble the sewing machine

Now let's start disassembling the sewing machine, or rather disconnecting it plastic case, consisting of two halves. But first, remove the shuttle compartment cover. To do this, unscrew the screws indicated by the arrows. Just like the front cover, this part, in addition to screws, is also attached with latches. To loosen them, you need to insert a screwdriver into the slot and try to gently move the cover to the left. WITH reverse side where the handwheel is located, remove the stitch selection knob. Just pull it hard to the right. Immediately pay attention to how it stood, so that it would be easier to install it back.

And two more types of fastenings are located at the bottom of the machine body. For many models of sewing machines, rubber feet at the bottom of the body are also used to secure the plastic body to the metal frame sewing machine. In any case, in this model of the machine the two rear legs serve as such fastenings. But since we will only be removing the front part of the case, unscrew only one leg (the upper right one).

For all sewing machines of this class, it is necessary to release the fastening indicated in the photo by the letter (A). Moreover, both screws do not need to be unscrewed; it is enough to release only the front side cover. IN in this case you need to unscrew the top screw.

4. Unscrew the most difficult to reach screw

The very last, but most inconspicuous screw (B) remains. It is located deep in the front part of the machine. Even with high magnification it is not visible in the photo. The screw that is so clearly visible does not need to be unscrewed. This is the upper thread tensioner mount. By the way, it remains in place after removing the cover. Take this moment into account and do not try to remove it. Actually, it is not difficult to unscrew the screw itself; it will be much more difficult to put it back. Therefore, hold the screwdriver on the magnet for a while, this will help you later.

Now you can remove the front cover, although it should be noted that other models may have an additional fastener, but the principle is approximately the same. Look carefully, your machine may have an additional mount in the lower part of the body. It happens that the fastening of the covers is hidden by plugs. Using a knife blade, pry the plug on the back of the machine and make sure there is no additional fastening there.

By the way, it is with the help of a knife that you will have to remove the cover, since in addition to the screws, there are latches at the ends of the covers. Place the blade of a knife between the ladles of the body and carefully try to push them apart, moving the latches. It’s just difficult to immediately determine where they are located, so be patient if you really decide that you definitely need to disassemble the sewing machine.

5. How to separate two parts of the case

This is roughly the “picture” you will see when you can disassemble your sewing machine. It's probably worth noting that the hardest part is not finding all the screws that secure the covers to the case and to each other. It is very difficult to carefully remove the covers and disconnect their latches. If you do this hastily, you can damage the plastic, which will not only ruin appearance machines, but it will also interfere with work. Rough parts in the machine sleeve area will cling to fabrics and even form puffs.

It is important to firmly decide whether you need to disassemble the machine yourself or not. If there is no other option, then be patient and attentive. Well, why we need to disassemble it, we have already mentioned above, but we will look at it in more detail in other articles.

How does a modern household electric sewing machine work? Basic malfunctions of components and mechanisms.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble the sewing machine, or rather remove the plastic body of the machine in order to gain access to some components. Such a need arises very rarely and it arises only when it is necessary to replace the sewing machine motor or drive belt.

Just like the pedal, the electric motor should not be repaired yourself. Moreover, there is nothing to repair there. The engine either works or it doesn't. If it does not work, and you know for sure that there is no other reason for this, then it needs to be replaced.

Such a “trifle” as winding thread on a bobbin often creates a lot of inconvenience. For some reason, it is not always possible to do this quickly and “without problems.” Let's figure out why it is sometimes difficult to wind thread onto a bobbin and what needs to be done to fix minor damage to the winder.

The master's opinion about which sewing machine is the best. Learn more about a used Rubin sewing machine and other old Veritas models.

Sometimes, you need to remove the overlock covers and lubricate all the rubbing parts inside the case. What you need to pay attention to and how to do it yourself.

2. Close the protective cover, lift the handle and remove the screw to the left of the handle.

3. To remove the cover, press the latch inward at the base of the handle and remove the cover and handle.

B. Removing the side cover

2. Remove the screws from the bottom of the machine A And B. Screw B the smaller of the 2 screws located there.

3. Position the machine upright, and remove the plug from the side cover below the flywheel using a small screwdriver.

4. Remove the screw WITH.

C. Verification

1. After checking the relative position of the parts, look at the upper shaft from the side of the right support, between the support and the shaft limit washer. Check for any darkening or scuffing of the shaft. If there is any darkening, the shaft and support bushing must be replaced.

2. Loosen the locking screw on the left end of the upper shaft. Try to move the shaft from left to right. If the shaft does not move, this also indicates that the shaft and bushing must be replaced.

D. Shaft replacement

1. To begin the shaft replacement procedure, place the upper counterweight shaft in front of you so that you can access the locking screw and the positioning washer screw. Note that the single blade on the positioning washer is on the right (remember the position). Remove the fixing screw and the positioning washer screw.

3. Remove the screws A And IN.

4. Remove the thread drive unit (thread take-up unit) and place it behind the machine.

6. Using a hammer and 3.0mm core, remove the pin from the counterweight.

7. Place an impact driver or punch on the end of the top counterweight shaft (see inset). Knock out the shaft to the right about 1.5 cm.

10. Remove the upper shaft. Remove and set aside the retainer, retainer screw, positioning washer and its screw.

11. Lightly tap and use a small screwdriver to knock out the upper shaft bushing towards inside cars. Be careful not to damage the cast parts seats wherein.

12. Install new bushings, install the bushings with the rounded end into the mounting hole...

13. ...make sure the bushing is flush with the seat casting.

14. Remove the retainer, bushing and counterweight onto the new shaft.

15. Remove the flywheel by pulling it out.

17. Remove the balance wheel and the metal and plastic washers.

18. Remove the belt pulley by turning it clockwise and pulling it out.

19. Remove the clutch springs from either end of the shaft ( A) or belt pulley ( B) by rotating clockwise and pulling out.

20. Use a 2.5 mm screwdriver or hexagon to drive out the upper camshaft camshaft pulley pin and remove the pulley, washers and clutch shaft bushing.

22. Remove the shaft from the ring coupling. Use an impact screwdriver...

23. Install the pulley onto the new shaft using a 1.5mm hex driver.

24. Install the oil seal washers, clutch bushing and ring coupling with right side shaft

25. Hold the clutch bushing with a 2.5mm hex screwdriver and position it so that the bushing moves no more than 0.5mm from left to right. Then tighten the 2 clutch screws.

26. Install the clutch springs inside the clutch bushing by rotating the springs clockwise. The spring must be installed in the groove of the clutch bushing.

27. Install the belt pulley by rotating it clockwise until it stops.

28. Install the plastic washer, followed by the metal washer. Install the balance wheel with the flat side facing the belt pulley.

30. Install the flywheel, making sure that the tabs on the flywheel fit into the slots on the balance wheel.

31. Insert the left end of the upper shaft through the belt into the mounting sleeve.

32. Thread the end of the upper shaft through the positioning washer, clamp, seal and counterweight. Remember that the single blade of the positioning washer should be on the right.

34. Move the release lever toward the front of the machine to protect it from impact from the clutch bushing.

35. Install the counterweight pin through the shaft (a 1.5mm hexagonal screwdriver can be used to strike). If the pin does not fit through the shaft, remove the pin, rotate the shaft 180 degrees, and reinstall the pin.

36. Position the machine with the counterweight facing forward. Move the shaft to the right, slide the lock to the left and tighten the lock screw.

37. Place the positioning washer in such a position that it is positioned with a single blade to the right and up. Install the washer and screw, move the positioning washer to the right or left so that the blades pass through the sensor without hitting it. Tighten the screw.

38. Install the winder with screw. Make sure the end of the spring fits into the molding hole as shown in the picture.

41. Place the white thread guide between the two black parts of the thread holder.

42. Secure the thread drive unit with screws A and B.

Settings

1. Remove the presser foot, needle and spool cap plate. Loosen the 2 drive pulley lower shaft screws (2.5mm).

2. Before adjusting the hook, make sure the presser foot is in the down position. Insert the needle from the left.

3. Adjust the hook and needle so that the nose of the hook is approximately 1 mm above the eye of the needle in the left needle position.

4. Tighten the 2 drive pulley lower shaft screws (2.5mm).

5. Install the bobbin case, needle plate and presser foot. Plug in the power cord and turn on the machine. Select a Zig Zag stitch (stitch #8). Turn the handwheel so that the needle begins to swing left and right. The needle should be 7.8 to 8.2 mm above the surface of the needle plate when rolling.

6. As a reference point, the needle should swing at the level of the presser foot when the presser foot is in the raised position.

7. To adjust, loosen the upper shaft positioning washer screw.

8. Turn the positioning washer in direction A if the needle tip is more than 8.2 mm above the needle plate and in direction B if the needle tip is less than 7.8 mm above the needle plate. Tighten the screw.

Installing the Side Cover

3. From the bottom of the machine, install screws A and B. Screw B is the smaller of the 2 screws located there.

Installing the Top Cover

1. To install the cover, press inward at the base of the handle and install the cover together with the handle.

Good luck with the renovation!

All the best, writeto © 2011

The uninterrupted operation of the sewing machine depends on how correctly and on time the lubrication is carried out. Certain parts of the machine can be lubricated without disassembling. But still, some parts cannot be lubricated unless it is disassembled. Before this, the owner needs to understand whether he can carry out the lubrication himself. If he is not completely confident in his technical abilities, then it is best to take the machine to a repair shop or call a technician to your home.

Special screwdrivers and operating instructions. If you are confident, then you need to read the instructions on how to disassemble a Janome sewing machine. After careful reading, you can proceed step by step using the screwdrivers that are included in the package. If they are lost, then you need to find the kit sheet and find out what screwdrivers are needed. After purchasing them, you can carefully begin disassembling them.

Special machine oil and operating instructions must be kept nearby when disassembling the machine. After disassembly, you need to read the part of the manual that concerns lubrication and figure out how to lubricate a Janome sewing machine. If everything is clear, then you can start lubrication according to the illustrations and step by step actions. It needs to be produced only with special oil, which should be included in the kit. If it is not there or it has run out, you need to purchase exactly the same one.

It is also worth mentioning how to thread a Janome sewing machine correctly so that you don’t have to disassemble it later. This is completely easy if you have instructions and high-quality sewing threads. Self-disassembly of a sewing machine to remove heavily tangled thread is quite simple. To do this, according to the illustrations and tips, the bobbin part is gradually disassembled and reassembled in the reverse order.

You also need to know how to set up a Janome sewing machine correctly, so as not to overload it in operating mode and not lead to disassembly and repair. If the machine at some point stops sewing, breaks the thread, and lubrication does not give any results, you can disassemble the sewing mechanism. But only if the warranty on the machine has expired. Any tampering or disassembly of the mechanism other than the bobbin part may void the warranty.

How to choose the right Janome sewing machine depends on how much the owner likes disassembling equipment. If the owner is a supporter self-repair, then he should choose a simpler model, which will be easier to disassemble and assemble. In general, you can disassemble anything yourself. Collecting it is a completely different matter. Therefore, in case of serious breakdowns, it is better to trust the equipment to professionals rather than experiment.

There are many articles on the site dedicated to repairing sewing machines. However, first of all, these articles are of an informative nature, intended not for amateur craftsmen, but for owners of sewing machines.
From them you will learn how this or that sewing machine works, what breakdowns are possible if you do not follow the operating instructions. And finally, how to perform a simple repair of a sewing machine with your own hands, if it is not possible to go to a workshop.

In this article you will learn how the Janome sewing machine works. What is the difference inexpensive models Janome machines, what kind of breakdowns they encounter and whether it is possible to repair it yourself.

1. Janome sewing machine with swinging hook

This model of Janome sewing machine has an oscillating hook type. This shuttle is used only by Janome, but also by other sewing machine manufacturers. These are cars with an initial price, which can be bought in the range of 4-5 thousand. They are quite reliable and “hardy”, but there are limits to everything, and after we decided to hem several jeans at once on this particular machine (photo), it ended up in our workshop.

Look at the photo. The arrows indicate the nose of the shuttle and the eye of the needle. You can see that when the nose of the shuttle approaches the needle, the eye of the needle is too high and therefore no stitches are formed. This is a very common "breakdown". In quotes because such a failure occurs when the operating rules of any sewing machine are not followed, and Janome is no exception. This is not even a breakdown, but a violation of the parameters of interaction between the shuttle mechanism and the needle. This happens at a time of excessive load. And doing a finishing stitch on the hem of jeans is just that case. The toothed belt connecting the upper and lower shaft “slips by a tooth” and the machine stops forming stitches, although it still works normally. Probably, jeans are the biggest “enemy” of all sewing machine manufacturers. How much they undermine the image of any of them. After all, it is jeans that most often cause household sewing machines to fail.

To understand why this happens and why jeans cannot be hemmed at household sewing machines count how many layers of fabric are formed at the roughest place (the junction of the seams). From 9 to 12 layers. Take a needle and try to pierce such an area with a hand needle, it is unlikely to work. Only if you hammer the needle.

But let’s return to our Janome sewing machine and try to figure out how such a failure occurred and whether it can be fixed on our own.

Firstly, it must be said that if the machine stops forming stitches normally, gaps appear, or thread breaks, then look at how the nose of the shuttle interacts with the needle.
Remove the presser foot and needle plate. Lay the machine on its side and remove top part shuttle stroke, so that the shuttle remains in its grooves and is not skewed. Now carefully turn the handwheel and bring the nose of the shuttle to the needle. If you find such a “picture” as in this photo, it means that the cause of the malfunction is elsewhere and there is no need to disassemble the machine. The photo shows that the nose of the shuttle fits, as it should, 1.5-2mm above the eye of the needle. If the spout is lower than the ear or level with it, then we will have to disassemble the body of the machine in order to gain access to the unit we need.

I do not recommend disassembling modern sewing machines. There is nothing complicated about this, but only for those who know how to do it correctly. In any other case, the desire to use a nail puller always arises. Well, it seems like all the screws are unscrewed, but the case does not come apart. Be careful, you can easily break not only the housing mount, but also the necessary part of the sewing machine.

Each machine uses its own options for attaching the body halves. First you need to carefully study them and discover them. For example, several pieces may be located under the front cover, in the area of ​​the upper thread tensioner, the shuttle mechanism (remove the needle plate).
Further, some of them are “hidden” under plugs that can be easily removed with a knife blade. What else can I recommend? Well, for example, for this model Janome does not need to remove the levers for switching stitch types. By the way, don't forget about the reverse lever when you put the body back together. In general, for a non-specialist it will be much more difficult not to disassemble it, but to assemble it, keep this in mind. Mark where and what screw was located. And if you don’t have a single “extra” screw left, then you have passed the attentiveness test by 5 points.

4. Janome sewing machine structure

If you are going to buy an inexpensive Janome sewing machine, you can look at these photos that clearly demonstrate its structure. This will help you make the right choice.
In the next paragraph you will find out the reason for the malfunction of this sewing machine.

If copier“dry”, its grooves need to be lubricated with thick lubricant.

Check the tension of the electric drive belt. If it is loose, tighten it slightly with the screws that secure the motor to the housing. The belt should not be overtightened; when pressed with a finger, it should bend slightly.

If your machine has “problems” with the tension of the upper thread, most likely the reason is this knot. Raise and lower the presser foot several times and make sure that this lever works correctly. It may need to be adjusted.

Behind the upper thread tensioner there is a housing securing screw. It's easy to unscrew, but not easy to put back. Place the screwdriver on the magnet for half an hour, and then it will be easier to install it.
The tensioner screws should not be unscrewed when removing the housing cover.

The cause of the malfunction was in this node, marked with an arrow. Moreover, this was not discovered immediately. This model of the Janome sewing machine did not have a toothed belt connecting the main shaft to the lower shaft. Instead, a crank mechanism was used. It is quite reliable and can withstand heavy loads, so the search for the cause of the failure was directed in the other direction.

However, it later turned out that while hemming the jeans, the eccentric mounted on the main shaft and transmitting movement to the lower shaft had shifted. As a result, without load, the machine parameters were normal, and no stitching was formed during sewing. The mount for this eccentric is located inside (arrow).
After exhibiting correct parameters interaction of the needle and the nose of the shuttle and subsequent tightening of the eccentric fastening (screw), the breakdown was eliminated.

Janome sewing machines have many different models designed for different categories of customers. There are a number of economy-class sewing machines that are affordable and designed for small sewing and repair of clothes at home.

A sewing machine is the main working tool of a needlewoman. In order for it to serve for a long time and not cause trouble in operation, it is necessary to carry out the adjustment, cleaning and lubrication procedures in a timely manner. This is usually done according to the attached instructions, which must always be kept next to the device. After this, all the parts begin to function more harmoniously, and the work process is a pleasure. All the subtleties and nuances of how to lubricate a Janome sewing machine are presented below.

Why lubricate

If you do not clean and lubricate your sewing machine in a timely manner, it may fail. Namely:

• parts will begin to creak;
• noise will appear;
• the threads will break;
• the seams will become uneven and tight.

To prevent this from happening, you need to know how and where to properly lubricate your Janome sewing machine.

This is necessary for:

• long service life;
• neat stitches;
• getting an easy ride;
• ensuring a smooth ride;
• easy settings.

What do you need for work?

To carry out the procedure at home, you will need:

• 100 g machine oil for lubrication (can be purchased at a specialized or hardware store);
• medical syringe;
• a special brush for removing dust and threads (often included);
• soft cloth to remove excess liquid;
• screwdriver;
• tweezers;
• film.

Algorithm of actions with video

For the lubrication procedure, you cannot use any other oil other than machine oil! First you need to pre-prepare your sewing machine. For this:

1. Remove dust from parts of the device, including under the platform.
2. Get rid of dirt in the lubrication holes.
3. WITH outside wipe with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol and petroleum jelly.

Important! If the unit has not been used, it should be stored under a hood or cover.

Let's look at an algorithm for how to lubricate a sewing machine. Janome machine. When working, you must follow the operating instructions.

Step-by-step algorithm:

1. Disconnect the device from the power supply and remove the threads.
2. Spread the oilcloth on the table and place the typewriter there.
3. Unscrew the screws and remove the plastic housing according to the instructions. To avoid confusion when assembling, place them on labeled paper sheets.
4. Clean the “backbone” with a brush, removing all dirt.
5. Fill a syringe with oil and lubricate all parts and rubbing parts indicated in the attached documentation. Usually there are photographs, so it won’t be difficult to figure it out.
6. Blot excess oil with a napkin.
7. Assemble the body.
8. Thread the sewing machine and sew a few stitches to make sure the seam is clean and free of oil marks.
9. The procedure is completed.

Features of the lubrication procedure

A common mistake is to apply as much oil as possible. In fact, this is not true. During operation, dust accumulates inside the device and gets there along with the fabric. For this reason, problems may arise with the advancement of the web. Contamination creates additional stress on the device drive. A large number of oil applied during care contributes to the accumulation of dust, threads, and fabric scraps. Forming lumps, the mass accumulates in a certain place, which leads to congestion and malfunctions.

Video material