DIY folding boat drawings and patterns. How to make a boat from boards with your own hands

1. Organizational issues
2. What's a yes and a no?
3. Which one should I do?
4. Basic truths
5. Materials
6. How to make a boat?
7. Supply
8. Examples of projects
9. Finally

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, admiralspb.com pvc boats are a necessity, and in populated areas, the production and rental of watercraft is a profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this even possible, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” ​​Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials And computer technology allows you to use them more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

• A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
• A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor vehicles) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat, its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;
• The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
• Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
• Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
• The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and load it for transportation with an adult and moderately developed assistant;
4. The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
6. The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top rack passenger car.

Based on all the qualities, in addition to the price of materials, the best choice for your first vessel would be a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Planing ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Foam boats, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boat.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you please, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost much more than best plywood and epoxy glue.

But most importantly: without special equipment It is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: if you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) conditions. ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For the quiet little ones inland waters the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

In slightly more difficult sailing conditions, with waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter allows the dinghi to ascend the wave more easily, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and dead weight of the dinghi almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. A sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of how a vessel moves under sail can learn to sail it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

Already looking at theoretical drawing it is possible to estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel is capable of sailing. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

• The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the performance of the vessel: using the trapezoidal method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be generously saturated with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued together in advance into strips of the required length using a miter joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets together epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear parts will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: V Lately Quite a lot of amateurs assemble boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners and so on. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil the fiberglass cloth in a clean container for at least half an hour, then allow the container and contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass cloth.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts from extruded polystyrene foam EPS is an effective way to increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
3. If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
4. Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
6. When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., which is necessary for the project;
9. They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in in this case This is so uneconomical - too much rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. on right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Perhaps more: the mounting clamps on some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid severe consequences accidents on the water - an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+?), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ? – mass density of foam plastic. For example, if?=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now there are autonomous LED lights the size of a child's fist with a built-in solar battery and battery. The anchor from this set deserves special attention.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from best option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a welded Kurbatov anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). pig of 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, so to save the rower’s muscular effort great importance acquire the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed the project sailboat plywood dory, see pic; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short, steep “angry” wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the kit are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... wooden parts sets are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Because a dory can sail at quite strong wind, it is possible to take one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!

Finally

After swimming, especially in cool weather, you want, need and benefit from eating and sipping something hot. Not intoxicating, on the water you must follow the dry law. Therefore, in conclusion, we provide drawings of a stove - a boat and yacht stove, which can also be useful at the dacha, picnic and in general on the farm.

Buying a boat is quite an expensive business. That is why many people are wondering how to make their own small and reliable boat. The process of creating a boat is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. However, it is quite painstaking and requires a lot of attention to detail.

The first and most important step is to determine what the vessel will be made of. There are not many options, let's look at them:

• Rubber based fabric. The end result is an inflatable boat.
• Plastic.
• Steel.
• Tree.
• Plywood.

Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages that are immediately noticeable. But now we will talk about a boat made of wood.

Having decided on the material, you can move on to the next stages of planning and preparation.

Manufacturing Features

There are really a lot of features, so let's look at them in detail:

1. Working with wood. First and main feature– ability to work with wooden structures and with wood in particular. You need to understand which boards are best to choose, how to bend them correctly, what loads a particular material can withstand. Before starting work, it is best to prepare and read books on woodworking. They are very easy to find and are freely available on the Internet.
2. Selection of materials for assembly. In addition to wood, you must immediately decide on other materials that will help hold the boat together and protect it from leaks. They must be suitable for the material that has been chosen and interact well with it.
3. Assembly location. Manufacturing will definitely require a lot of space and time. For professionals, manufacturing and assembly can take from 4 to 10 days, depending on the complexity. A beginner will need several times more time. This is why it is important to choose a dry and comfortable place.
4. Tools. To facilitate and speed up the process, you will need a number of tools (which we will look at later). In addition, it is advisable to have an extra pair of hands during some stages of assembly.

These are the main features you need to know, but as you progress, you will likely encounter others.

Drawing of a boat from boards for self-production

Deciding on the sizes

One of the most important stages at the planning stage. The size determines the capacity, load capacity and weight. It is very important to maintain the correct dimensions so that the boat is stable on the water.

They can be changed at your discretion, but within reason:

• Length of the entire structure. The length can vary from two to four meters. If the vessel is designed for one, then the length should be 1.8 - 2.5 meters. Two people – approximately 3 meters. Three people – 3.5 – 4 meters. A boat 3-4 meters long can easily support up to 5-6 people; the issue here is more about comfort.
• Width. Also one of the main criteria. Average widths are 1 – 1.5 meters. The greater the width, the more stable it is wonderful. On the other hand, the greater the width, the less maneuverability. It is necessary to find a middle ground. It is different for everyone depending on the person’s body, the load that will be transported, as well as the length of the entire structure.
• Board height. The average and recommended side height is 50 centimeters. Again, you can make it either higher or lower, depending on your desire.

It is based on these dimensions that it will be necessary to make all the details in the future. It is difficult to determine these dimensions by eye, so it is best to make a drawing for clarity.

Moving on to the drawings, we must immediately say that it is not necessary to have a talent for drawing. At the moment, a drawing can be made without having such skills online on the Internet. You can make a three-dimensional model that will meet all the requirements and desires.

In the drawing, in addition to the main dimensions, you must immediately determine the dimensions of other, smaller, but no less important details. It is best to make drawings for them separately, so that you do not have to adjust them in the future.

Basic planes necessary for constructing a theoretical drawing of a boat hull

Required materials and tools

Having dealt with all the theoretical issues, we move on to practice. Collecting all the tools and materials and preparing them for work is the final part of the preparation, so this process must be treated with special care.

Consider the list of tools and instruments that will be needed during assembly:

This is the main list of what will be useful during assembly. In addition, other tools may be useful in the process. For example, a hacksaw, a hammer, clamps, etc.

Selection of boards for lining the bottom of a punt boat

Manufacturing process

Let's move on to the most interesting part, the manufacturing process. Let's present it in the form of step-by-step instructions.

There is no room for haste or shortcomings, so we do everything extremely carefully and clearly:

Boat testing

After creating and assembling the vessel, we move on to testing it.

You can test the boat in different ways, but the best number of stages is:

• The first waterproof test can be done in the yard. To do this, we turn the boat over and place it on some kind of support (chairs, benches, table). Next we pour it on a large number of water. To do this, it is best to use a hose and “water” for 5-10 minutes. After this, the boat can be turned over and checked to see if water has gotten inside.
• Now, knowing that the schooner does not allow water to pass through, you can proceed to access to deep water. More precisely, try it in action. It is strongly recommended not to swim to great depths for the first half hour, because if something is done wrong and the boat begins to quickly take on water, it is much easier to get it out of the shallows.

Let's look at a few tips that may be useful to a beginner in the difficult task of designing and assembling:

• When assembling, do not spare materials. For example, when fastening the sides to the bottom of a boat, it is worth spending extra time, but carefully going over all the joints with glue or resin. It will be very difficult to correct such errors in the future.
• Do it with reserve. Excess parts of everything can be removed, for example, by sawing off a block in the bow of the boat. This also applies to all other details.
• Before using large nails or screws, it is advisable to make holes for them using a drill. This will prevent cracks from appearing.
• Don't skimp on materials. How better quality wood, the longer and better it will serve in the future.

I have long wanted to create a record marking the main points in the manufacture of a boat, but it never worked out! Dad is getting older every year, but there are still no cheat sheets, although he and I have put together more than one pair of boats... And this year there was a need to expand our fleet, because the children are growing up and boats are required that are more stable and load-bearing, for reliability movement. I myself used to swim to the surface, but with my sons I have to be careful about this! The time has come to take out the previously stored boards, edge them, plan them, prepare nails, and one weekend we get down to business! (It’s better to use spruce boards, without knots, but you don’t always have what you need)

First of all, Dad sketched out a small drawing with dimensions, based on the requirements and previous construction projects

Then they laid out the boards for the bottom, drew a contour on them according to the dimensions, cut out the main parts with a jigsaw, leaving only the edges, this can be seen in the photographs.

When adjusting the boards to one another, we leave gaps in the stern and in the bow, but in the middle we fit them more or less tightly

When all the parts are prepared, we begin assembling the bottom, first tightly assembling the boards, sewing them with nails in the middle with a cross member, then using a rope and two crowbars we pull together the stern, sew them together with nails, and do the same with the bow

Due to the fact that the crossbars are rounded, and gaps were left between the boards in the bow and stern, when screeding and assembling, the bottom turns out to be a bit of a sphere both across and along its length. In the future, this gives the boat stability on the water. It is not necessary to adjust and tighten the bottom boards to microns, small cracks are quite acceptable, this will make it easier to caulk the bottom.

When the bottom is assembled, we line out the edges according to the planned dimensions and markings so that the edges are smooth, otherwise it will not be possible to bend the side boards clearly

The most interesting thing is ahead, you need to bend the sides at the same time on both sides, if bending one by one can warp and the boat will turn out to be skewed. We apply the side board to the bow on one side and sew it on, then do the same on the other side, then one presses it, bending the boards, the second pierces it with nails towards the stern.

The boards were tied together in the same way as the bottom - with a rope. As a result, some kind of shape was drawn, then it’s easier. We bend the second row of side boards in the same way. We don’t hit a lot of nails when stitching because we still have to caulk! Next, we saw off the excess ends of the boards, both the side boards and the bow and stern. Then you adjust the front bow board.

After completing the assembly, you work with a plane, rounding where necessary, leveling it, going through the entire longboat, cutting out the frames beautifully. After making it beautiful, we caulk it, add nails in places, screw the rowlocks, resin the bottom, nail the strips to the bottom, resin them, then paint. We also make seats and paint them as you like. Our oars are transferable, we change boats, but the oars are the same. The oarlocks on all our boats are the same, so there are no problems.

In principle, I tried to take into account all the stages and subtleties in the photograph, so that it was clear. Two boats have now been put together, one for the opening, the second just recently. The boats were made identically, one was tested, the second was at the stage of completion of work.

If anyone has any questions, please ask, I’ll be sure to clarify! Truth questions usually arise when self-production, suddenly someone will take it and make a piece of wood. For those who live near the lake, a piece of wood is irreplaceable!

Thank you for your attention!

Drawings and photos

Buy good boat maybe not everyone, because the prices are quite high. In addition, not all designs may suit the needs of their clients. If you take it apart inflatable boat, then it's not very reliable means for movement, because such a boat can easily be damaged in difficult conditions. This means that they are not suitable for good fishing. In this option, the decision is made to try to make a homemade boat.

Homemade plywood fishing boats have their own number of advantages:

• Firstly, plywood is simple, dense and very warm material. It is almost impossible to destroy such a model, and it weighs little.
• Secondly, unlike rubber ones, there is enough space in a plywood model for a couple of people.
• Thirdly, being in a boat made of wood, you practically do not feel discomfort.

The main material from which standard boats are made is considered plywood. There are no difficulties with finding it on sale.

First, it is worth remembering that any activity that is related to independent creation of a certain means (be it a tractor or something else), must go specifically according to the chosen scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade models with you. Sometimes drawings can be replaced with a special design.

To create the case you will need to take simple boards with a thickness of 2 cm and 6 mm plywood sheet. The width of the material for the stern and sides should be 30 cm. These are the most suitable dimensions for the boat. All other parts that will be inside the product (seats and spacers) are made of material with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 86.4 cm. It must be remembered that the dimensions of all these parts must be fully maintained, since they are all attached to to the model body only with self-tapping screws. Creating all the parts of this design will definitely not cause any problems.

This can be explained by their light geometric shape. During the work process, you need to pay attention to the fit of the joined parts and the frill. All joining parts must be level and have only small gaps along the entire length. Various self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Regarding the size of such fasteners: it all depends on the place of use. They may be as follows:

• 3 by 26 and 3 by 18 mm - for covering a vehicle;
• 4 by 60 and 5 by 64 mm - for all other parts of the structure (for example, seats, feed and side).

The bottom of the model is made of a sheet of plywood with 6 mm thick. But due to the fact that this part of the boat will be partially exposed to the effects of the aquatic environment, to protect the vehicle, the joints of the hull and the bottom still need to be treated with the VIAM-B/3 substance and secured with screws.

If this substance is not available, you can take it as a replacement. oil paint. Although it does not glue well, it can provide a strong and reliable coating. It is worth saying that the distance between the screws should be about 4 cm.

External seams should be well taped with fabric using AK-20. In order not to destroy the bottom of the model, a special grid is placed between the spacers.

Many people wonder how to make a boat out of plywood themselves. Boats with a motor do not differ much in their basic characteristics compared to models designed to move under oars. The only difference is in the organization of space for mounting the engine. Basically, a special board is fixed at the stern, where the motor for the boat is installed.

Certain parts of small ships can be equipped with other parts, for example, a cockpit, deck stringers, and so on. To improve strength and unsinkability, certain gaps can be installed in models that need to be filled polyurethane foam. This approach helps eliminate the possibility of vehicle flooding.

Painting the plywood body of the product is a rather interesting and serious moment. This is done correctly in the following sequence:

• The body needs to be primed. Drying oil must be real. It is heated to the boiling stage and immediately removed from the surface of the stove. Using a large brush, warm drying oil is applied to all parts of the body on the outer and inner parts.
• After priming with drying oil, you will need to wait for final absorption.
• And finally, the boat is painted.

Great combination color range- white and red. The bottom up to the waterline needs to be painted white shade. Red should go higher.

For a homemade model, they make an area for mounting the engine. It is cheaper and easier to use oars. The material for the oar can be a birch board with a thickness of 35 mm. A spike with a handle is placed at the end of the spindle. Special pads can be used to protect the edges of the blades. Next, you can prime the paddle and paint it. Boats homemade type can be designed in different ways.

A do-it-yourself fishing boat made from plywood can surpass plastic and rubber models in its “survivability.” Such a boat will operate for fifteen to twenty years. Create a boat yourself and enjoy fishing. And, of course, before starting work, you should decide what kind of boat you still need: collapsible or folding.

All photos from the article

A boat is an indispensable element of fishing or summer holiday on the river. Of course, a good watercraft, even if it is a small boat, is quite expensive pleasure. However, you can make it yourself from plywood, and this task is not as difficult as many might think.

In this article we will look at how to build a plywood boat yourself, which can diversify your vacation.

General information

To build a plywood boat you only need a simple set of tools that everyone has home handyman, and suitable material, patience and desire to get a quality result.

It should be noted that in addition to ease of manufacture, plywood floating craft has many other advantages, such as:

• light weight, which is very important, because before launching the boat into the water, you have to walk some distance. In its lightweight version, this product weighs 10-15 kg, so two adults can easily carry it. True, if the boat is made using frame technology, the weight increases, however, it is still not critical for transferring over short distances;
• depending on the type of project, the capacity of the boat is up to 5 people, which is quite enough for a small family;
• If the manufacturing technology is followed, the design is strong and durable;
• manufacturing a watercraft does not require large financial expenditures, since the price of all materials is quite affordable.

Therefore, if you have free time and the desire to build a boat, there is no reason to abandon this idea.

Tools and materials

The main characteristics of the future boat, such as strength and durability, depend on the plywood from which it is made. Therefore, its choice must be approached very responsibly.

Regular FK plywood, which is used for making furniture, is not suitable for these purposes. Therefore, it is best to use sheets of the following brands:

In addition to the type of plywood brand, when choosing, you should also pay attention to its quality:

• there should be no gaps at the ends of the slabs;
• There should be no knots or other defects on the surface.

Note!
You should not use plywood that is too thick, as the sheets must be flexible.
That's why optimal thickness is 5–6 mm.

In addition to plywood, you will also need some other materials:

• boards and bars - must be dry and of high quality;
• fiberglass - it is more convenient to purchase in a roll and then cut into pieces of the required size;
• yacht varnish or waterproof paint.

As for the tools, the set is quite simple:

• jigsaw;
• sander;
• plane;
• hammer;
• clamps;
• tape measure and pencil;
• putty knife.

Making a boat

Blueprints

Before you start work, you need to prepare drawings on how to build a boat with your own hands from plywood. I must say that there are a large number of all kinds of projects on the Internet. Some of them are also available on our portal.

However, before choosing optimal project, you should decide on the basic requirements for the watercraft, such as:

• size and capacity of the boat;
• appearance of the product;
• the complexity of the design is selected depending on the level of your skill. If this is your first time doing this kind of work, it is better to take a simpler project.

Having decided on these requirements, you can consider existing boat designs for self-built from plywood, and choose the most suitable one. If necessary, they can be slightly adjusted according to individual wishes.

Sawing parts

So, we have sorted out the choice of project, now we are building a boat from plywood with our own hands. As an example, let's look at how the simplest punt is made from one.

You should begin work by marking and cutting out parts.

This process is carried out as follows:

1. first of all, you need to mark the line of the bilge and transom (in diagram A, B, C);
2. then a part of the sheet is cut along the marked line with a jigsaw;
3. then the resulting blank should be applied to the opposite side and outlined with a pencil. Thus, it will serve as a template and ensure the symmetry of the boat. For convenience, the workpiece can be attached to the main sheet with clamps;
4. then the second part of the sheet is cut along the intended line;