Make a stove for your home with your own hands. Not cramped and not offensive: a small brick stove will heat the whole house and won’t take up much space

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for masonry. brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make mistakes when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in the house small area and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. IN in this case the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: you should take care in advance external insulation at home, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

1. Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
2. Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
3. Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution from the old fashioned way. river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of ​​the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

• plumb line;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• knitting wire;
• building level;
• metal strips, corners;
• containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about enough in a simple way creating a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

The base course of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly fixed using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the desired size.

The next brick row is laid.

The fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of ​​the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Larger stoves require increased skill and additional materials, but the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries, guaranteeing normal work unit.

Those who want to know how to perfectly build brick stove, we will find detailed information on all important issues of interest independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information we provide will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick kiln. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last for many years without complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.

Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences, which must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.

There are many stove designs that can be divided into groups according to their purpose:

Image gallery

In small houses where the use of modern heating systems is not required, it is possible to use a conventional wood-burning stove to heat the premises. At the same time, not every owner knows how to build a stove in the house. Wood stoves have the following advantages:

• quite small in size;
• high level of work efficiency;
• convenience and ease of maintenance;
• inexpensive type of fuel.

System characteristics

Recently, high-quality stove heating, equipped with a boiler with a water circuit. Its main advantage is to increase the coefficient useful action stove heating, due to which the heat is evenly distributed throughout the entire area of ​​the house.

It should be noted that a stove equipped with a water boiler will be more efficient compared to a solid fuel boiler, because it can heat rooms in the house faster.

The design and placement of stoves in the house directly depends on their type and type.

Today there are the following classifications of furnaces:

• by purpose - divided into heating and cooking devices and stove devices with a shield;
• by type of fuel used - firewood, gas, combined fuel and coal;
• in shape - square, round, rectangular, L- or T-shaped, triangular and others;
• by type of chimney - vertical, horizontal, sequential and combined stoves;
• according to the period of fuel combustion - prolonged, long and short-term combustion.

After determining the type of furnace, you can begin placing the heating structure. Positioning against an interior wall will affect air currents emanating from the windows to the exit, which will provoke the movement of cold air near the floor surface.

When installing the stove near the outer wall, air flows are normalized, but the room is significantly darkened. The best heat transfer will be when the stove is placed in the middle of the room, which in turn does not look entirely aesthetically pleasing.

Most rational option will put a heating stove in the house on the border of the living room and kitchen.

Work process tools

You will need:

• trowel;
• construction hammer;
• bucket;
• roulette;
• level;
• putty knife.

In addition, there are other tools that may be needed when installing a particular structure.

Stages of work on the device

To install a heating stove in a house, you must complete the following steps.

Foundation structure

Room heating stoves weighing up to 750 kg are usually installed directly on a durable floor covering. If the floor strength is insufficient, they are reinforced with additional beams, strengthened with brick columns.

Indoor stoves weighing more than 750 kg must be placed on specialized foundations, which must rest on a solid foundation of the soil.

These types of durable soils usually include rocky soils, which are solid rocks of limestone, sandstone or granite. The main property of such soils is a high level of resistance to resistance groundwater and frost.

Macroporous soils that contain clay and have a coarse-porous structure are considered unsuitable substrates for placing stoves in a house. These soils lose their strength when exposed to moisture.

1. The lower level of the foundation area that will rest on the ground is called the base of the foundation. It is usually buried in the ground by 0.5-0.6 m (for single-story stoves), 0.75 m (for stoves with mounted pipes) and 1 m (for two-story stoves).
2. The building materials for making the foundation of furnaces are various types of rubble stone, ordinary brick (iron ore is the best option) and concrete.
3. When the soil is dry, the foundation is laid using bricks and limestone mortar, and when the soil is wet, cement mortar is used.
4. Brickwork is done in horizontal rows with mandatory bandaging of the seams. Massive stones are placed on the bottom layer, and smaller ones are placed in the upper rows. The empty spaces between the stones are densely filled with crushed stone. The foundation masonry should not be connected with the masonry of the house wall.

Furnace laying and exterior finishing

To obtain high strength of the masonry, it is necessary to bind the bricks together. In addition, bandaging brick seams helps maintain gas density in the kiln.

Laying the firebox and chimney (the most important parts of the stove) should be done only using hands to be able to feel for excess impurities and objects in the solution (stones or lumps) that must be removed. Laying with a trowel is allowed in places with greater thickness (the base of the stove).

Basic work rules

In order to correctly fold the first rows in the furnace masonry, it is necessary to observe the parallelism rule, which is checked using a square and string by measuring the opposite distances between the main corners. The masonry is considered to have the correct shape if these distances are equal to each other.

1. The chimney and firebox are laid out with preliminary selection and layout of each row dry. The only exceptions can be solid brick rows without a chimney (from the base of the foundation to the bottom of the smoke channels).
2. The firebox is made of refractory bricks using. When burning a stove with wood, the firebox is made of ordinary brick. The inside of the firebox is not tied up with the general masonry of the outer walls due to the difference in temperature of these surfaces when the furnace is fired.
3. Before laying, ordinary types of red brick are wetted and immersed in water for several minutes. The refractory brick is only rinsed with water to remove dust to improve the bond between the brick and the mortar.
4. When laying, the inner surface of the firebox is thoroughly wiped, and excess solution is removed. The thickness of the seams should be no more than 5 mm (for ordinary bricks) and 2-3 mm (for refractory bricks).

Installation and fastening of furnace appliances

The stove appliances are installed into the overall structure as the masonry progresses. The main stove appliances include:

• combustion doors;
• smoke dampers;
• grates.

When installing these devices, the thermal expansion of metal and brickwork must be taken into account.

1. To do this, a gap of 5 mm is left between the devices and the main masonry.
2. The frame of the device is secured with special metal claws, which are fastened into the masonry and clamped with brick and mortar.
3. The firebox opening is blocked with brick into a lock or.
4. The grate is placed in a special hole on the floor of the firebox with 5 mm gaps and is located below the level of the firebox opening by 1-2 rows of bricks laid flat.
5. The blower door is installed without gaps.
6. Traction and pipe closing devices are fixed closer to the smoke riser in order to reduce the length of the chimney.

Chimney and chimneys

The chimney, according to its structure and location, is divided into root, wall and mounted.

1. The wall chimney looks like a vertical riser inside the capital brick walls. This chimney is located in interior walls oh home. It is also possible to use a common chimney for two stoves on the same floor.
2. Root pipes (or chimney) are used in wooden buildings where there are no wall channels.
3. Mounted structures (chimney) are installed directly on the stove on a reinforced concrete slab laid on the ceiling.

Deflectors and weather vanes made of steel and cast iron are used as windproof devices capable of controlling draft in systems (the chimney itself).

Finishing of external surfaces

As a rule, the outside of stoves is finished and lined with plaster, steel cases or tiles.

Plaster is the cheapest, but unreliable method, due to the fact that it is susceptible to cracking.

Various types of roofing and sheet steel are used for cladding with cases. However, quite often their surface is deformed, and subsequently dents form. Therefore, it is better to use corrugated steel for cladding.

The most aesthetic and hygienic finishing of the stove surface is cladding with tiles. Tiles are capable of creating a reliable gas density of the structure. But at the same time, this is the most labor-intensive and quite expensive type of finishing.

Considering that there are different stoves, you should choose an option that suits both the home and the owners. However, for a good owner, after he has studied the features of the arrangement and laying of brick stove structures, such work will not present any difficulties.

Despite the fact that many buildings today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems too early to turn on heating system, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excess humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house that is comfortable for humans.

That's why search query how to build a stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell you in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove maker at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If you decide to install a stove in your house on your own, then beginners are advised to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear procedure.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, how much area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

Types of brick kilns

There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and others include several functions in their “set of capabilities”. Therefore, in order to decide on the right model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

• the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.

A heating and cooking stove is often built into a wall or acts as a wall itself - to do this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall towards the living area of ​​the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and making it possible to cook food in a separate room.

If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

• The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both activated simultaneously. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is erected both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own cooking capabilities, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.

On summer cottage in not big house It’s better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.

• The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking food. However, this function does not deprive it of heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast iron stove They warm up well, releasing heat into the room.

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

Many different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be very miniature and occupy a large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. This way you can visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the stove?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and transfer maximum heat to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think through this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling beams and not accidentally bump into them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

A brick stove structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed further.

• To get the maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near the outside wall of the building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to heat more than one room.
• Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the stove structure may have different decorative finishes, made in a style that matches the design of a specific area of ​​the room.
• Quite often, the stove is built into a wall between two or even three rooms, which allows for the most efficient use of the generated heat. In this case, for fire safety purposes, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, ceiling and attic floor in the passage area
• When choosing an installation location, it is also necessary to ensure that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100÷150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
• To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the stove, it is recommended to always choose a model that comes with an order diagram.

Having chosen the place for its installation, you can purchase everything necessary materials and prepare necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features stove models, and the tools used for masonry are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

The tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation will require:

• Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete foundation.
• A hammer-pick is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
• Veselka is a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
• A stove hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
• A broom made from sponge is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
• A lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
• A building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
• A scriber is a rod used for markings.
• A plumb line is a cord with a weight designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• Construction angle with a ruler to check the correctness of external and internal corners, since they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used for bending and biting off wire to secure cast iron stove elements in masonry seams.
• Rasp - this tool is used to remove beads and grind in lumps in dried masonry.
• The chisel is used for splitting bricks and dismantling old masonry.
• A rubber hammer is necessary to level the bricks laid on the mortar using the tapping method.
• (trowels) different sizes used for applying mortar when laying bricks and removing the mixture protruding from the seams.
• Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in masonry joints. It is used if the masonry is made “under jointing”, without further cladding.
• Manual tamping will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
• Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
• A sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.

• A stand for the convenience of working at heights, called “goats”. The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the stove is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, much less be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, which will lead to damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

If you are building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do quite a lot of work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected stove model is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material on the installation site.

The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it along which the boards will be cut.
• Then a pit is dug in the subfloor soil according to the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined plastic film or roofing felt.

• Then, it is laid out on the bottom sand cushion 100÷150 mm thick, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted using a manual tamper.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which is also compacted, if possible. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Next, wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing felt remains inside it, and then is fixed to the walls using a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will preserve the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will give the slab the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished foundation so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
• Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80÷100 mm. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
• The next step is to install a reinforcement grid made of steel reinforcement 4÷6 mm thick into the formwork, to its entire height. The rods are tied together with wire twists.
• Next, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250÷300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed with cement and gravel in proportions 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a regular concrete solution of sand and cement.
• If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
• The poured one is leveled according to the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink 15÷20 mm into the solution a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is leveled again, and if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
• Next, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
• Waterproofing is laid on top of the frozen foundation, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are laid one on top of the other.

• To start laying the first row, it is recommended to do waterproofing material markings, indicating the location of the oven base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and maintain the evenness of the sides and corners.

After these preparatory works, you can proceed to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, when starting to lay a previously unfamiliar structure, first do it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure is raised dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the stove model.

When performing dry masonry, it is necessary to maintain the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, vertical seams will be difficult to measure with small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams slats must be used. By applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the stove.

As an example of using slats, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams if the masonry is being made for jointing and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.

When making dry masonry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then you will have to reposition part or even the entire structure of the stove, since backdraft may form and smoke will flow into the room during kindling.

Having raised the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole bricks, but also small fragments of them were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded into a separate stack, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each row is also indicated. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in the required order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and place it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.

When performing the main laying, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution 60÷70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can be pulled out of the seam only after the solution has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged in next seam immediately after aligning two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration strips out of the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order using jointing.

If the calibration slats were laid on both edges of the brick, then inside the walls will also have indentations between the seams. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not warp.

So simple assistive devices, like calibration slats, will help to carry out the laying accurately with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire surface of the stove will look as if the design was made by a professional craftsman.

These nuances will help simplify the process of constructing a furnace structure and avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo the entire work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of performing all the functions necessary for a small house, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water heating tank.

This stove can heat one or two rooms. with total area 17÷20 m², so can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms Houses. At the same time, it certainly needs to be oriented in such a way that the structure faces the kitchen area with the slab.

The dimensions of this heating structure, excluding the height of the chimney, are 750x630x2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob during the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the entire house. The heat transfer from the stove when it is fully fired is 1700 kcal/h.

To construct this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing felt, reinforcing rod or steel wire 5-6 mm thick. If you decide to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture one as well.

In order for the work to be successful, before starting it, it is strongly recommended that you study the order very carefully, and during the laying process, keep this diagram always at hand.

This illustration shows this furnace schematically in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels run inside the structure and trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is continuous; it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since it will correct masonry the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend. A row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pit (ash chamber) and the bottom of two channels that will run vertically are laid. When laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	To secure them in the masonry, cast iron doors are equipped with special lugs into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Next, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from its installation location until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the diagram. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber are raised in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since later they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80×120 mm. In addition, the installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the firebox is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout size should be approximately 10x10mm ± 1mm. The prepared bricks are laid above the blower chamber. To lay a row you will need 16 fireclay bricks.
	After this, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on a clay mortar, but often without any mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be about 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the firebox begin to be built. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Next, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fastenings, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is very hot.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering pattern. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the bricklaying in the rows is intertwined.
	When laying the ninth row, the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off from the bricks installed on the side walls at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut on both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two outer bricks. You will need 12 fireclay bricks per row.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the outermost vertical channel, since the smoke generated in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth flow of hot air, a protruding corner is cut off on the middle brick separating the combustion hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed for laying hob. For masonry you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is lined with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3÷4 mm thick (assuming a hob thickness of 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. On the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously open vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. To lay this row you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the diagram, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Next, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed to the prepared area using a clay-sand mortar. A row is laid out from 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the “ceiling” of the cooking chamber, the second is rotated towards the first and installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (the size of a brick), and the third corner is pressed with its back side against the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. When laying it out, 12 bricks cover the cooking chamber, but above it a steam exhaust hole is formed, into which the valve will be installed. To install this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is secured to the prepared site using clay mortar.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented diagram. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is cramped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney pipe. For laying you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Next, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installation metal plate and masonry of the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With its help, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row brickwork overlaps the metal plate. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then with outside oven, a metal corner is installed that will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. Laying a row will require 15 bricks.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the diagram, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the back wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, to direct the smoke in the desired direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. To lay a row you will need 11 bricks.
	On the 27th row, two vertical channels are combined using masonry, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The back wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. A row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a pattern similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners cover the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is installed in accordance with the diagram. Only the hole above is left open drying chamber, where the valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the prepared “nest” on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the oven. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31÷32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If you decide to do it yourself, then the work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Provided you follow all the recommendations and the provided ordering diagram, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.

Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range metal furnaces and boilers, which is replenished from year to year with more and more new models. But despite all their advantages, owners of non-gasified houses still have the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of stoves and the technology for constructing a brick type with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often preferable to its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be added to the firebox of a metal stove every 4–6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick stove more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated in this case is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves.

• In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health. A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to it, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When working with any other heating device

, not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals. It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel stove in which the fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel heaters do not have this drawback. long burning(full-fledged, and not so-called gas-generating furnaces, which only imitate gas generation). But they are very expensive, they have

complex design and need electricity, which a brick kiln can easily do without. What can be opposed to all of the above?

A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room.

Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

1. Application of brick kilns
2. The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks this unit can solve:
3. Smoking meat and fish.
4. Melting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
5. Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram may vary in different furnaces. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. This stove is very easy to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

Very good option heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven, you can install a heat exchanger on the side to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the roof of the oven;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture and require very quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• Dishes of our national cuisine that cannot be cooked otherwise than in a Russian oven become available for preparation.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pit or ash pan, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
• valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
• view (item 17): also a valve, by means of which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is closed in order to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney at the intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, and besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
• 10 - combustion chamber;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - furnace roof;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called flood part (indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick cannot be used in this case.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must be laid out stove brick at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it splits into large pieces.

A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

1. Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used: Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks
2. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The fact is that a dried clay solution, if not heated sufficiently, can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained using sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after drying for 4 hours, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wound around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

Let's analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; For deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer-pick;
• grooves for seams;
• shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires great experience, but exists simplified version, proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 oven surface area are taken following values heat transfer:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded firebox made of sheet steel; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to make an accurate calculation manually is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. More modern version- simulate a stove in one of the designated ones computer programs. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, when open window, you can cook on it quite comfortably.

In a large house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

1. A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of the internal walls (including T-shaped ones). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove can be erected on a base made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building’s foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation, maybe rubble. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• 4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
• All that remains is to lay the last layer - soaked in highly diluted masonry mortar basalt cardboard or felt.

Laying can begin only after the top layer has dried to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire inserted into the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter only increases outer size chimney, internal section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic bricks need to be moistened by dipping them into a container of water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in a purely heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of circles they are used flat pallet. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the firebox side) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a furnace to be economical, it must be maintained at good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Wet firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, heat is formed in the chimney. a large number of acid condensate, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by yellow fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold a stove with your own hands

Whatever type of brick stove you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise there will be no friendship between them.