Homemade metal scaffolding. We make scaffolding from wood or pipes with our own hands

It's hard to imagine a construction site without scaffolding. They are used to build and finish walls, make roofing, install gutters, etc. In each case they must be strong and reliable. If renting a factory-made scaffold is expensive, do it scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands. This is often done in individual construction, where the height of houses rarely exceeds two floors. This article will tell you how to assemble these simple structures.

Types of scaffolding

Construction scaffolding is made entirely of wood or metal pipes in combination with boards.

On a note! Homemade scaffolding should not be subjected to heavy loads. It is not allowed for more than 2 people to stand on them at the same time.

Materials for scaffolding

To erect a frame scaffold, you will need steel posts and frames. The flooring in them is made of wooden boards. Aluminum structures are lighter in weight and can withstand less load. The following dimensions are recommended for one section:

• height – 150 cm,
• width – 100 cm,
• length – 165-200 cm.

The number of sections determines the height of the building and the perimeter of the external walls of the house.

A simple version of homemade scaffolding

Before you begin assembling the frame scaffolding, you should purchase following materials:

• profile for vertical posts with a square section of 3x3 cm and a length of 150 cm;
• pipe (diameter 15 mm) for installing horizontal and diagonal struts;
• profile for connecting inserts with a square section of 2.5x2.5 cm (the flooring rests on them) and fences;
• flooring boards 2-2.5 m long and 4-5 cm thick;
• ladder for climbing (if not finished product, it is assembled from a profile and placed between the side posts);
• bolts with nuts and washers for connection structural elements;
• self-tapping screws for fastening wooden elements.

Note! During the work, you will have to use a hacksaw or grinder, a drill with a metal drill, welding machine. Connections can also be made using special threaded fasteners.

Rules for constructing a frame

Before assembling the scaffolding, you should carefully compact the soil in the area where they are located. When carrying out work in rainy times, it is advisable to provide drainage. This way, the soil under the scaffolding will not wash away, and the structure will remain initially strong and reliable. To ensure the stability of the structure, boards are placed under the support posts.

Wooden frames designed for low weight

Important! Even a small play at the connection points or an incompletely screwed thread can cause the scaffold to tilt or collapse, and this poses a danger to people’s lives.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is assembled in the following sequence.

1. Cut the pipe blanks - for diagonal struts 2 meters long, and for horizontal struts - 1 meter. Please note! Two-meter spacers are cut 7-8 cm from each end and flattened. In the future, this will simplify the connection of parts to the profile.
2. Connect two vertical racks spacers. Make sure they are in a horizontal position.
3. Connect the horizontal sections of the scaffolding with ties (the distance between them should be 30 cm). Subsequently, you will lay the boards on them.
4. Secure the connecting elements.
5. Drill holes for bolts on the supports and posts.
6. Finally assemble the structure from the profile pipe (fix the boards with self-tapping screws).
7. Clean the woods and coat them with paint.
8. Check out the drawings according to which you made your own scaffolding from pipes.

On a note! Temporary structures of several sections are connected by adapters. To do this, cut 8-10 cm of pipe with a cross-section of 3x3 cm, thread a section of profile with a cross-section of 2.5x2.5 cm into it. The parts are connected by welding.

Feasibility of structures

Some people are wondering whether it is advisable to make scaffolding themselves. The following arguments are given as an argument not in their favor.

• Scaffolding is not a small structure, like a trestle scaffold. And this bulky structure will need to be stored somewhere after construction is completed.

After completion of the work, the wooden scaffolding is dismantled, but this takes a lot of time. Boards, if they are not urgently needed, will also have to be stored somewhere. It is worth considering that wooden scaffolding is knocked down with nails and not assembled using self-tapping screws. The boards will not remain intact after such disassembly; moreover, they are often stained with mortar or paint.

Temporary structures of their pipes can be rented out

Note! Self-made metal scaffolding can be rented out.

• Homemade construction scaffolds are used for work that is carried out at a height no higher than the second floor. With a higher number of floors, the use of such scaffolding is associated with a danger to the lives of workers.
• The need for this design rarely arises (when repairing a facade). At the same time, you have to spend a lot of time assembling and disassembling it, which may seem unprofitable.
• Often long temporary structures made from profile pipes are required. They are quite heavy and difficult to move even for a group of 3-4 people.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is a matter of personal choice. They help on different stages construction and after completion of construction can be rented out. This way you will recoup your labor and materials.

Video: homemade scaffolding

During the construction or finishing of a house, you cannot do without scaffolding. To build them, you don’t have to turn to professionals; you can easily do everything yourself. The structure can be erected either from wood or from a profile pipe. The first structures will be disposable, but the second ones can be used a large number of once. Next, we’ll look at how to properly build both types of scaffolding with your own hands.

What does the structure consist of?

Before proceeding to the construction of scaffolding, it is necessary to clearly determine what elements they consist of. So, the design includes:

various braces that give rigidity to the structure;

floor crossbars;

boards that will serve as the floor of each floor;

supports that will give stability;

fencing;

staircase for ascending to the floors of a structure.

A homemade structure – isn’t it dangerous?

It’s very easy to make scaffolding yourself, but is it worth it? First of all, I would like to note that this is not a small portable design, but quite a voluminous structure, which then needs to be stored somewhere. Even if it is disassembled, the existing boards and pipes will need to be attached somewhere. It’s good if the house can be heated with wood, then it can be useful, but if not, the wood will simply deteriorate over time. With metal scaffolding, everything is somewhat simpler - they can be rented out, but again, if there is a demand for them.

It is also worth noting that the use of hand-made structures is possible no higher than the second floor. The construction of scaffolding, especially of wood, at a higher height can be hazardous to health. In addition, you need to understand that if the structure will no longer be used, is it worth spending a lot of time on its construction? It might be easier to rent. Having assessed all of the above, you can decide whether homemade scaffolding is needed during the construction or renovation of a house. If the answer is yes, it will be necessary to create drawings where not only appearance design, but also indicates the amount of material required.

Installation of a wooden structure

In order to create a structure made of wood, you will need to prepare the following materials:

wooden boards for racks approximately 5x10 centimeters thick;

boards for the floor and crossbars 5 centimeters thick;

wooden boards for fencing and braces with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters;

In this case, the step between the posts should be approximately 2.3 meters, the width of the floor, in order for it to be safe to walk on, should be at least 1 meter, and the height of the structure should be no more than 5 meters. So, in order to create scaffolding from boards with your own hands you need:

use braces to fasten four posts together;

secure the crossbars at the required height;

fasten the boards that serve as the floor to the crossbars;

attach boards that will act as a fence;

install supports;

fix the ladder in the right place;

check the drawings.

All work on creating a structure made of wood is carried out only with the help of nails and a hammer (see video).

Metal structure

A structure made from a profile pipe is more reliable than a structure made from boards. When building a structure, it is necessary to take into account that the dimensions of one section should be approximately 1.5x1x1.6 meters (see photo). You also need to prepare materials such as:

pipe for supports with a cross section of 3x3 centimeters and a length of 1.5 meters;

pipe for braces with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters;

pipe for connections with a cross section of 2.5x2.5 centimeters;

the floor is made of boards about 5 centimeters thick and approximately 2 meters long;

So, in order to create a structure from a profile pipe you need:

cut pipes for braces for horizontal elements of 1 meter and for vertical elements of 2 meters;

cut two-meter braces at each end, which will greatly simplify their fastening;

connect two supports to each other with horizontal braces, the distance between which should be approximately 30 centimeters;

secure the connecting elements;

drill holes for bolts on the braces and supports;

assemble the structure from a profile pipe to the end;

clean the structure and paint it;

check the available drawings.

How to do without forests?

It is worth thinking about scaffolding even at the stage of creating house drawings, but if this does not happen, what is the right thing to do? If the construction or finishing work of the building is carried out by professionals, then there is no need to think about them, because every team should have such structures. If they have a chance self-construction lost or no more work is planned where they might be needed, the structure can easily be rented.

But in order for scaffolding to really no longer be needed, everything Finishing work immediately need to be carried out with the highest quality possible. For example, it is better to use as finishing materials facing brick or other similar ones, because, for example, plaster and siding will require additional attention.

Sooner or later, construction reaches the finishing of the facade. And here the need arises to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, the gables need to be hemmed, the siding needs to be installed, the façade elements need to be painted, and drainage system install.

There is only one way out - to install scaffolding or a tower. But industrial building construction expensive, and the price of a tower with a working height of 8-10 meters is very steep. You can rent them, but if the work takes a long time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

Metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of forum members suggests that building metal constructions It is economically feasible only if you have “free” hardware. If you buy metal, fasteners, study welding work, then such structures will ultimately cost more than factory ones and, especially, wooden ones.

While scaffolding can be carefully dismantled and the boards put into use, metal ones are doomed to gather dust in the utility room. Experienced builders They will say that high-quality scaffolding or a tower can then be rented out. But few private developers will want to tinker with this. Therefore, the majority of forum users still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding better than wooden ones, but the main trump card of wooden ones is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their production.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: it is better to build your own wooden scaffolding from high-quality lumber. A quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after use, can be used in a new construction project.

DIY scaffolding for your home.

How to make scaffolding from boards

Before you start making homemade wooden structures, you need to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for lining gables, siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work, etc.) a more serious design is required.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

• Length – 5 m;
• Width – 1 m;
• Height (thickness) – 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 linear meters boards 150x50mm.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

They are called "scaffolding - envelope".

DIY construction scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as a basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements Such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed on the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed on each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The force load is carried by the support board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - the pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then the scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be damaged, then they are leaned against the wall, and the main load is carried by the supporting board.

When choosing the size of “envelopes”, you should adhere to the following requirements. If the site is too narrow, it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the “envelope” may come off the wall. Optimal size platforms – 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that their manufacture does not require a lot of lumber.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

The supporting board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests in the corner between the wall and the blind area, the other end of which is attached to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at the first glance at such structures you doubt their reliability - it’s scary to look at! Let's turn to the practical experience of users of our site.

Zark member FORUMHOUSE

We call such forests “Armenian”. When I first saw such a design, I was surprised at how it even held up. I tried it, climbed onto the flooring - quite reliably. I myself have used attached scaffolding more than once, both on wood and on brick house. They are convenient, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian scaffolding.

Drosha member FORUMHOUSE

This type of forest is quite safe. There is no need to attach the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the supports (do not knock it down with nails, so that you can quickly disassemble it later).

How to Build Scaffolding for Heavy Duty Work

But such “Armenian” scaffolding is not suitable for all work - mainly for light work. They are good as scaffolding for painting a house, etc. For “heavy” work that requires working with tools, solutions, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more permanent structure must be used.

The assembly of the structure is done as follows:

• Take a six-meter board (150/200x50) and place it vertically against the wall;
• A second board is placed parallel to it;
• They are secured to each other by horizontal bars. Next, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
• For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional brace boards that rest against the ground;
• As necessary, the scaffolding is increased in height by attaching additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

• The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
• The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

DIY wooden scaffolding.

diews FORUMHOUSE member

We made forests like this last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They placed only one wall at a time and then moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How to make scaffolding better: gpush against the screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of forum members are divided: some believe that it can be assembled with self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only with nails.

The main argument of opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. The self-tapping screw does not work well under shock loads and shear loads. The result is that the cap flies off, the structure loses strength, even to the point of self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for cladding a house.

Igor Kokhanov member of FORUMHOUSE

I recommend fastening everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bend of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no self-tapping screws! I'll tell you such a case. Builders I knew were doing the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result is that the structures separated, all four of them flew from a height of five meters. The result is one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second was a severe bruise to the leg. But they got off easily; if the altitude had been greater, everything could have ended much worse.

That's why this happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load it bends and does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and under alternating and shock loads, it will first bend a little and then break. Moreover, the so-called “black” self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, bolts with a hexagonal head (under a washer) with a diameter of 8 mm and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble the scaffolding that has been nailed together, and part of the good board will have to be thrown away or used for rough work. And the structural elements will be kept from shifting by the large friction force that occurs between the boards if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to make a compromise - use self-tapping screws to assemble scaffolding “on the ground”. In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding collection, they can be quickly disassembled and rebuilt. And only then additionally nail everything together properly.

From this article you will learn how to properly collect wooden scaffolding do it yourself - step-by-step instructions have been prepared for you.

The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional devices for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders that is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements apply to scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
2. Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
3. Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. Buy them for home use unprofitable, only rent is possible for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

1. Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
2. The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
4. The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: It is unacceptable to use spliced ​​cross members without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. Can be made from edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal braces connecting the posts different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to connect the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

1. The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, do wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
3. For each node there are at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50–70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
5. Always install handrails with inside racks.
6. Use a fascia board (fencing near the deck).
7. The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
8. The pitch of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

For creating wooden structure scaffolding you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
2. We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a brace.
2. We prepare required amount"envelopes".
3. Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them diagonally maximum height so that they stand without support.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
6. Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

1. Install the handrail and front board.
2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this you need to tie the racks at the bottom horizontal board maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at height, and therefore it is impossible to do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution– make scaffolding with your own hands, then you won’t have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They come in wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Construction and types of scaffolding

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

• support posts;
• stairs;
• floorings and lintels for it;
• fencing railings;
• stops;
• horizontal and diagonal struts.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all parts are nailed together. At the same time, such scaffolding is not designed for heavy loads; dismantling it takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Scaffolding made from metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily expanded if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.

Wedge forests

Depending on the fastening methods, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.

Table. Types of forests

Types of forests	Description
frame	metal structures made of vertical frames fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffoldings are lightweight and easy to install
wedge	very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders
pin	rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but is too expensive and has a high pressure to the ground
clamp	This is a versatile scaffolding that is perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite labor-intensive, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there must be a distance between the racks of 2 to 2.5 meters, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding should be a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, they are rough drawing designs.

To work you will need:

• timber 100x100 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick;
• boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
• nails;
• hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• Circular Saw.

The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. raw wood will make the structure heavier, and may become deformed after drying. Since scaffolding is required only for the duration of construction or finishing of the house, there is no need to treat it with antiseptic compounds or sand it.

Step 1. Making the frame

4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: the smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meter ones along the lower edge. You should end up with two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.

Step 2. Assembling the frame

The frames are lifted, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m. Check the horizontal position of the sidewalls with a building level, and if everything is correct, nail the frame tightly. Finished design should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.

Step 3. Installation of flooring

Flooring boards must be nailed to the upper cross beams. It is best to stuff them along the width of the frame; The boards are laid closely, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Assembly of metal scaffolding

In private construction, it is most convenient to use framed metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks are suitable for the manufacture of sections; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section has a height of 1.5 m, a width of 1 m and a length of 1.65 to 2 m.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Preparing the spacers

Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of horizontal ones is 96 cm, diagonal - 2 m. After this, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the spacers to the supporting posts.

Step 2. Making adapters

To build up scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from profile pipes: 25x25 mm pipes are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and from 30x30 mm pipes, blanks 8 cm long are cut. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.

Step 3. Frame assembly

Two vertical posts are connected to each other by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The result is a frame in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. From sheet metal cut out square plates 70x70 mm and weld them flat to the lower ends support posts. Thanks to this, the section racks will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils under metal plates Additionally, dense wooden planks are laid.

Step 4. Section installation

Two frames are installed vertically, one opposite the other, and diagonal struts are tried on. Mark the fastening points with a marker, then drill holes for the bolts in the posts and spacers. Connect all parts together and check the horizontal position with a level. top bars. If the structure is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the flooring

Flooring boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse flooring, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, take boards at least 2 m long, knock them down along the width of the sections, and reinforce them from below with transverse bars to prevent deflection.

To ensure that the flooring does not move during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be secured to its ends according to the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. Markings are made in the same way at the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile 17-20 mm wide, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with self-tapping screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now, when the flooring is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.

Step 5. Painting the scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is intended for reusable, which means they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, moisture causes the frame to become corroded, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolding, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring also treated and painted to protect against moisture and rot.

Prices for poles, profile pipes

Pillars, profile pipes

Video - DIY scaffolding