DIY scaffolding from a profile pipe. Do-it-yourself scaffolding: we make scaffolding from wood and metal by studying the drawings and instructions

Make scaffolding with your own hands if you have the skills to handle welding equipment And various instruments it will not be difficult at all for the owner of a private house. Prefabricated structures are needed to organize work on cladding and repairing the surfaces of building facades at height. The structure is erected along the entire perimeter of the house or at one of the facade walls.

Scaffolding is assembled from metal rods, timber, boards and wooden shields. The structure of the buildings is a frame of vertical supporting elements With horizontal connections. The platforms are decking made of wooden panels or other materials. Message between at different levels construction is carried out using stairs. Scaffolding consists of structural elements such as:

  1. Shoes.
  2. Vertical posts and horizontal connections.
  3. Flooring.
  4. Railing.
  5. Stairs.
  6. Net.

Shoes

The supports for the vertical posts are shoes (thrust bearings). Typically these are metal platforms with vertical slots for racks. For horizontal correction of shoes, spacers and pads made of wood or metal are used.

The shoes are the ultimate structural elements scaffolding that transfers the entire load from the structure to the ground base. Before erecting scaffolding, it is necessary to accurately determine the locations for supports. The surfaces of the sites must be in the same horizon, otherwise the facade fencing will skew and the structure will become unsuitable for use. To prepare the support areas, use a level or laser level.

Vertical posts and horizontal links

The racks perform the main load-bearing function. For forests of small height within 2 - 3 storey building wooden beams are used. Racks made of metal pipes are much more often used.

Vertical supports are installed in stages - as horizontal connections are installed. Connections between frame elements are made in several ways. The main requirement for fastenings is to ensure the safe presence of people on the construction sites.

Flooring

Work platforms are formed from wooden, steel and aluminum panels. The flooring is laid on horizontal frames formed by frame elements.

The flooring, in addition to the role of supporting platforms, serves as connecting elements that ensure the rigidity of the entire scaffolding frame.

Railing

All openings facing outwards must have railings. Fences are made of 50x50 mm timber. The railings are located at a height from the flooring within 1.1 - 1.2 m.

Stairs

Transitions between different levels of platforms are made by installing stairs. Stairs can be entirely wooden or welded from steel profiles. Duralumin ladders are not uncommon when arranging forests.

It is advisable to install stairs at an angle of no more than 450. This allows a worker to easily move from one floor to another, while carrying any load.

Net

According to the requirements of building codes and regulations (SNiP), all scaffolding must be covered with a net. The mesh is a fine mesh polymer coating Green colour(international standard).

The grid performs several functions simultaneously:

  • Prevents workers from accidentally falling.
  • Prevents various objects from falling out of the working area.
  • Protects from bright sunlight.
  • Protects the facade of the building during painting work from the penetration of dust from the outside.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands

There are certain standards for wooden scaffolding. The distance between the posts along the facade of the building is from 2 to 2.5 m. The width of the flooring, which determines the transverse size between the external and internal fencing of the scaffolding, must be at least 1 m. The height of the wooden structure must be up to 6 m.

To build a lumber frame you will need following materials and tools:

  • Hand or circular saw.
  • Hammer and pliers.
  • Roulette and level.
  • Nails.
  • Wooden beam with a section of 100×100 mm, 50×50 mm.
  • Boards with a section of 100×30 mm, 100×40 mm.

The thickness of the lumber may be different, but not less than the above dimensions. The lumber must be dry, without large knots or cracks. Under no circumstances should you use raw wood. In addition to the fact that wet wood is heavy, it can become significantly deformed when drying.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

  1. On a flat area, 4 beams are laid, cut to fit the height of the scaffolding.
  2. Every 2 beams are placed between each other at the width of the flooring.
  3. The racks are nailed down with crossbars. The transverse lower beams are fixed at a rate of no more than 50 cm from the ground. The top beams must be level with the deck.
  4. The resulting frames are laid on their sides, securing the position with temporary supports.
  5. The frames are connected by two boards diagonally.
  6. The structure is turned over on the other side and the steps to secure the diagonal connections are repeated.
  7. During assembly, the dimensions of the openings are constantly monitored with a tape measure.
  8. Platforms made from sections of boards are nailed to the supports from below.
  9. Roofing felt or roofing felt is laid in the places where the scaffolding will stand.
  10. The scaffolding is raised to a vertical position so that the legs of the structure precisely fall into the intended places.
  11. Using shims, the vertical marks of the supporting platforms are corrected.
  12. Install the flooring. The flooring is knocked down longitudinal boards cross beam.
  13. The decking boards are nailed to the cross beams of the frame frames.
  14. WITH outside of scaffolding, railings made of boards are nailed over the flooring.
  15. A staircase leading to the upper platform is installed.
  16. For convenient and safe movement of workers, stair railings are installed.
  17. As the structure is being erected, based on individual characteristics facade, can use temporary fixation of scaffolding using additional connections with building elements. These are spacers, bevels and so on.

At the end of the work, the forests are disassembled into separate elements that can serve to meet other needs of the household plot.

Types of homemade scaffolding made from metal pipes

Supporting structures for scaffolding made from metal profiles may differ in the way the load-bearing elements are connected. These are wedge, clamp and pin fastening units.

Wedge forests

Connections include support platforms with mounting holes into which wedge-shaped support element holders fit. Making such structures yourself is quite difficult and expensive.

Clamp fastenings

The frame rods are fastened with special clamps. The process is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. The advantage of clamp scaffolding is that structures can “hug” facades of the most complex configuration without carrying out any complex work.

Pin designs

Due to their simplicity of design and high reliability, pin scaffolding is especially popular among home craftsmen. They are quickly assembled and disassembled. This feature of pin structures attracts amateur craftsmen.

Manufacturing and assembly of pin scaffolding

Before you begin making multi-level scaffolding from pipes, you need to prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools:

  • Electric welding unit.
  • Angle machine (grinder).
  • Electric drill.
  • Bending device.
  • Level.

Materials:

  1. Steel pipes ø 48 mm.
  2. Steel pipes ø 20 mm.
  3. Steel sheet 12 mm thick.
  4. Smooth reinforcement ø 16 mm.
  5. Wooden beam 40×40 mm.

Step-by-step instruction

  1. Smooth reinforcement is cut into pieces 40 cm long.
  2. On a bending device, sections of reinforcement are bent at an angle of 450, obtaining support pins.
  3. The device for bending the pins is made from two pieces of pipe. One is welded to a massive metal blank. A piece of smooth fittings is inserted halfway into the pipe. A long piece of pipe is placed on the other end of the pin and the reinforcement is bent.
  4. A pipe ø 48 mm is cut into racks, the length being equal to the height of the scaffolding.
  5. From a pipe ø 20 mm, a grinder is used to cut sleeves 200 mm long.
  6. Using a tape measure and a marker, mark the places for welding the vertical sleeves.
  7. The sleeves are welded to the vertical posts. On corner supports The sleeves are placed at an angle of 900 to each other.
  8. On ordinary racks, 3 sleeves are welded - in the center and on the sides.
  9. Pins are attached to the horizontal sections of the pipe by welding, the free ends of which are facing down.
  10. Shoes made of sheet steel measuring 20x20 cm are welded to the lower ends of the racks.
  11. The height of the nests (sleeves) is set in each individual case. Typically, nests are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other vertically.
  12. The horizontal opening is made from 1.5 to 2 m.
  13. Boards and timber are nailed into panels that will serve as flooring.
  14. Where the flooring will rest on the outer beam, 2 pieces of timber are nailed to the shield from below. Wooden pieces are nailed to the boards so that the pipe beam passes between them. This will give additional stability to the entire scaffolding frame.
  15. When joining panels, sections of steel angles are welded to the cross beam on both sides so that the horizontal flanges of the angles are flush with the pipe.
  16. Horizontal connection pins are inserted into the sockets.
  17. In places where staircases will be adopted, openings are left between the flooring panels.
  18. If it is necessary to extend the racks in height, then sleeves from pipes of larger diameter are welded to the upper ends of the supports, which form sockets for attaching the upper racks.
  19. The stairs are welded from sections of the same pipes.
  20. The racks are brought into a vertical position.
  21. The pins are inserted into the sockets.
  22. Lay the flooring.
  23. Stairs are installed.

The scaffolding is ready for use. At any time, the structure can be quickly dismantled and its elements stored.

Assembly of clamp scaffolding

Structures of this type do not require welding. All connections are made by hand using steel clamps. The only tools you will need are wrenches.

Along with this, it should be noted that installing and removing clamps requires significant time. The cost of clamps is quite high. The assembly of such scaffolding will require a large amount of fasteners, which will significantly affect the cost of structures.

Painting metal scaffolding

When preparing pipe elements before installation, the structures are cleaned of rust. Good to use for this grinder with an emery wheel.

After this, the structures are primed with a product for external metal work. Dried pipes are coated with two layers of paint intended for steel products.

With intensive forest exploitation, metal elements tint once a year. If the scaffolding is stored disassembled, then the products are repainted as needed. Store forests in a dry, ventilated area.

Armenian forests

This popular name simple devices in the form of wooden scaffolds. For laying walls made of brick or cinder blocks one-story houses, use a simple device consisting of triangles with right angles.

The triangular structure consists of two wooden panels, between which a console on an axis is placed. The console at one end presses the vertical structure with one of its legs against the wall of the building, and at the other end it rests against the ground. Two such structures form horizontal platforms on which the flooring rests.

Self-made “Armenian scaffolding” is far from safe, and must be treated with caution. The owner, using such scaffolding, puts his health at risk.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be rented out, which will quickly recoup all the costs of manufacturing the structures. When working at height, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

Before you start building scaffolding, you need to decide what material it will be made from, and what type of scaffolding (more precisely, the method of fastening) you actually need.

Today there are two materials from which you can make scaffolding with your own hands. It is either wood or metal. Respectively, ready-made designs can be either metal or wood. But if we consider the methods of fastening the elements of these scaffoldings, then there will be more varieties. This:

  • Frame scaffolding. They are in demand when carrying out plastering work.
  • Wedge scaffolding is indispensable when working with heavy loads, and they can be easily disassembled.
  • Clamp scaffolding - used when working on objects with complex configurations.
  • Pin scaffolding. This variety is especially popular because such scaffolding is quickly assembled and disassembled.

Having decided on the varieties, you can move on to the question of whether it is worth building even the simplest scaffolding with your own hands, or whether you should still entrust this task to masters of their craft. In the case where your decision is definitely economical, you can look at detailed photos and videos of ideas on how to quickly and efficiently assemble scaffolding yourself. By the way, there you will find a hint on how to store them later, or dismantle this structure until the next use.

Scaffolding drawings

In general, you need to understand that when assembling scaffolding with your own hands, drawings can significantly simplify the task. Acting according to the existing scheme, you will quickly cope with the installation. The only thing you need to understand is that any forest consists of elements such as:

  • main racks;
  • horizontal and diagonal struts necessary for structural strength;
  • floor lintels;
  • board flooring (support) on which a person must stand;
  • reliable stops;
  • mandatory fencing to avoid falling from a height;
  • stepladder for lifting to the desired height.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to master and assemble scaffolding with your own hands. But is this really advisable? Indeed, in most cases, these structures are not some kind of trestle-platforms, but serious structures designed to perform heavy work at a certain height.

Scaffolding assembly instructions

IN in this case, scaffolding assembly involves the use wooden materials, since few people would think of dacha conditions do assembly metal scaffolding, unless they are ready-to-assemble elements that are small in size.

And wooden scaffolding, made by yourself, can only be useful for work at a level not exceeding the second floor and mainly for carrying out facade repair work. Their use in more difficult conditions and under heavy loads may not only be impossible, but also dangerous. However, so that you do not get confused in the assembly steps, we suggest that you use the assembly instructions for the simplest design.

First of all, you should remember the approximate values. Namely:

  1. The distance between the posts should not exceed two to two and a half meters.
  2. The width of the flooring for work must be at least a meter.
  3. The total height of the structure should be no more than six meters.

And now - let's get to work! In order to begin assembly, you need to prepare everything in advance necessary materials. These will be:

  • Boards with a thickness of at least fifty millimeters and a width of at least one hundred mm. You can replace them with 10x10 timber or round timber for stops and racks.
  • Boards for fencing and spacers. Their thickness should be at least thirty millimeters.
  • Boards for flooring and lintels - 50 mm thick.
  • Nails. But don’t try to replace them with self-tapping screws - they are not reliable comrades in this matter.

1. Observing all the distances that were indicated a little above, from all four sides Secure the four posts together using the existing diagonal braces.

If you are building a small one-story house, then you most likely do not need forests. Everything can be done using trestles and ladders. But when the building stretches out to one and a half or two floors, and even with a pediment, then it won’t be possible to get off so easily. Scaffolding will definitely be required, if only because with them the productivity, safety and quality of work increases significantly.

They are mainly useful in the following cases:

  • Construction of walls (for example, bricklaying);
  • Finishing and repair of the facade (plaster, different kinds cladding, painting...);
  • Arrangement of external slopes on window openings;
  • Creating some views chimneys, for example, wall ones that go along the outer wall;
  • Installation of the roof and first rows roofing in particular.
  • Hemming of the “wind” board;
  • Assembling a storm drainage system under the roof...

And here the painful question arises, where to get the forests. Metal factory models made from pipes are an excellent time-tested option. But they are expensive. Even if you rent several sections to a height of 6-8 meters, this can significantly undermine family budget, considering that they may be in demand at the site for several months in a row. Be with you construction firm or a more or less serious “team” - then purchasing your own metal scaffolding is completely justified and pays for itself, because their use (including delivery/removal, assembly/disassembly/rearrangement...) is usually included in the estimate and paid for by the customer. And since you are the customer and the contractor in one person, then you have to look for an alternative.

It exists - forests can be assembled from lumber. Such a structure will have the following advantages:

  • Low price;
  • The ability to be flexible in choosing a configuration (standard steel sections can be very difficult to squeeze into some “squeezed” places);
  • A small mass of an auxiliary structure that can be safely placed on a roof or relatively soft bases/grounds;
  • No problems with logistics (all you need to do is buy a board or timber from us with delivery);
  • Availability of options for using lumber used to create scaffolding for other purposes.
  • Reliability.

It's not for nothing that forests are called forests. From time immemorial, building auxiliary structures were made of wood (logs and beams, boards), on which even cathedrals of several tens of meters were easily built. In China, high-rise buildings are still being built in some places using bamboo and ropes. But! To get truly reliable and safe structures, you need to have more than minimal skills in working with lumber and a clear understanding of the mechanics of the work, as well as the limiting capabilities of this type of structure.

Which wooden scaffolding design to choose?

There are two options in total, within which you can find a number of varieties. These are wooden scaffoldings:

  • Frame ones, which stand independently and are installed near the walls.
  • Envelopes (wall-mounted), which are pressed against the house and, as a rule, do not have vertical support posts.

The first type of construction is, in fact, an analogue of factory metal scaffolding, only here beams and boards are used instead of rolled steel. In this case, square or rectangular spatial “sections” are assembled near the wall, each of which has support posts, oriented almost vertically, and tying diagonal jibs. Flooring boards are placed on the cross members between the posts.

Such scaffolding is more difficult to manufacture than envelopes, but they are spaced from the walls and allow you to easily carry out any work over their entire area - it is enough to create floorings at each height. Also, such a design can be loaded much more heavily and, if executed correctly, heavy materials can be stored on them. Free-standing scaffolds are wider than envelopes, which makes them much more convenient for moving several people and performing various work operations.

Wall scaffolding is much simpler in design. They are L-shaped brackets that are held in place by a diagonal support made of a log or a powerful beam that extends directly into the ground. In addition to the work of this support, the holding effect is ensured by friction, so it is not necessary to mechanically fasten the envelope to the wall, although if such a possibility exists, then this is only better.

Masons are very fond of such forests. After all, they are very easy to assemble and rearrange to the required height, just by replacing the support with a longer one. Very little lumber is required here. There is no need to take special care to ensure that all legs have good support. However, there are also disadvantages:

  • Small deck width
  • There is only one tier on which to work - the entire wall is not accessible,
  • Lack of fencing
  • More stringent height and load restrictions,
  • Several places on the wall are always inaccessible for marking or finishing due to envelopes.

Features of assembling wooden scaffolding

Frame scaffolding

Free-standing scaffolding can be partially built on the ground. To do this, frames are assembled from two supporting legs, which are spaced from each other by about one meter and connected by at least two jumpers and, very preferably, with at least one diagonal brace. In this case, 1 meter is the width of the scaffolding being built.

Racks with a height of 6+ meters should ideally be made from large lumber - logs with a diameter of 100 mm or beams with a cross-section of 10X10 centimeters. For smaller scaffoldings, 75x75 mm timber will be used; you can also twist racks from several edged boards faces towards each other.

It is not recommended to assemble auxiliary structures made of wood, designed to work at a height of over 10 meters. Under no circumstances should the racks be extended in length.

Once the cross frames are assembled, they can be lifted and installed in place. The distance between them should not exceed 2 meters (when creating reinforced platforms, a span of up to 2.5 meters is allowed). This creates a span that we will cover with shields; the weaker the shield and the greater the load, the smaller the distance between the frames needs to be.

Frame scaffolding must be assembled at a specified distance from the wall. If work is carried out on the facade, you need to take into account how far the finishing will be from the base and what tool needs to be used. For example, for plaster, it is better to remove the scaffolding 30 centimeters or more from the wall so that you can freely work with a float, rule, etc. Do not neglect securing free-standing scaffolding to load-bearing elements building, even if it is temporary. Always install brackets (not on scaffolding) to allow the harness cable to be attached.

The frames are fastened together with horizontal struts made of boards, which must cling to at least 3 frames (they are fixed on racks). Several such spacers are needed (about every 2.5 meters), the highest of them can work as a fence in the area of ​​the upper deck.

In addition to horizontal struts, diagonal struts are also needed. They are made from boards with a width of 75 mm and a thickness of 25 mm. A block is also suitable, but due to its thickness it is more difficult to securely secure it in place.
Perfect option, if the diagonals go from the bottom of the racks to the very top, it is better to place them in pairs - with crossing. It is difficult to indicate the specific location of these elements and the exact quantity, because much depends on the height of the scaffolding, the length, width, and also the length of the boards available.
Also, stabilizing struts that go from the scaffolding to the ground will not be superfluous. They are placed in the direction “from the wall” and “right/left” - to the sides. They prevent the structure from swaying and tipping over.

The posts and frames are not exactly parallel to each other. Essentially, it is necessary to assemble trapezoidal structures that are more resistant to “folding,” which taper at the top. For example, the width of the scaffolding near the ground will be 1 meter, and at the very top - 80-90 cm. The outer frames are also slightly inclined towards the center of the scaffolding, which in the upper part makes their length 40-50 cm less than at the base.

Floorings are made from boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm, and better - from 35 to 45 mm. Their length should be such that the shield rests on at least 3 jumpers. It should be noted that it is advisable to twist the flooring, consisting of several boards, using wooden pads. The resulting shield works much better in bending and torsion than scattered boards. It is advisable to install limiting bars along the edges of the shield that prevent the flooring from moving in the horizontal direction. It also makes sense to nail/screw the flooring to the supporting frame of the scaffolding. Walking boards for wall scaffolding envelopes are assembled in a similar way.

Envelopes

As we have already noted, wall-mounted auxiliary structures are supported on the wall, primarily due to a diagonal support resting on the ground. However, nothing prevents you from supplementing them with vertical stands for each envelope. This way you can make the system more reliable and use a wider flooring - up to a meter.

The usual width of the boards for such scaffolding is limited to half the size (45-50 mm), which is explained by the increasing leverage with thoughtless expansion of the flooring, which can lead to possible destruction of the envelope.

The base of the envelope consists of timber with a section of 50-75 by 75-120 mm. Two segments (down about a meter, from the wall - up to 70 cm) are connected at right angles. Then the resulting L-shaped bracket is stabilized on both sides with diagonal struts (3-4 pieces each or a whole triangle of reliable sheet materials: plywood, OSB). The role of these elements is extremely important, since they are the ones who prevent the envelope from folding under pressure.

In total, you need to place at least 3 envelopes on the wall, only in very short areas you can get by with two. The main requirement is that the spans should not exceed a distance of 2-2.5 meters, which, however, is more accurately determined by the thickness of the flooring.

Home craftsmen have many questions about the problem of choosing a method for connecting parts of wooden scaffolding in general and fasteners in particular. We can definitely say that you cannot use black phosphated screws due to their fragility. Powerful screws with galvanic coating and a thickness of 4.5 mm will withstand all loads if assembled correctly. There will definitely be no problems with steel nails 90-120 mm long, which are generally immune to shearing forces. Unless it will be a bit difficult to display structures and disassemble them without damage. In this case, no cuts or cuts should be made so as not to weaken the load-bearing capacity of the structure. The entire assembly must be done overlay; an excellent option to strengthen the frame and speed up the work would be to use perforated fasteners.

What lumber to buy to create wooden scaffolding

We have already talked about suitable sections, we will not repeat ourselves. Of the species, of course, it is better to use needles: pine or spruce. Aspen has also proven itself well here, both in strength and price.
The main thing is that the board and timber do not have large knots that can weaken the structure. You should not use lumber with a cracked structure here; through cracks are not good, and heavily warped products are difficult to assemble into a reliable frame. Second grade lumber is quite suitable, including TU lumber. In many nodes it is even allowed to use unedged board, but the bark should be removed from the wane and edges untouched by the equipment before installation.

It should be borne in mind that it will not be possible to disassemble wooden scaffolding so that all the lumber remains undamaged. But with some effort, the percentage of boards and beams remaining intact can be very high. Therefore, some developers buy for scaffolding good material first grade, counting in advance on its reuse in other works.

The natural moisture content of lumber around 20 percent is quite enough; dry wood for such purposes will be wasteful, but too “wet” products can present an unpleasant surprise.

During construction or renovation, it is often necessary to perform work at heights. With help ladder it will be inconvenient to produce them. For these purposes, you can assemble scaffolding with your own hands. Exist different variants designs that are selected based on the nature and complexity of the work. What is the best type of product to choose, how to assemble it or make it yourself, you can read in this article.

Scaffolding is widely used in repairs and construction. This is an indispensable attribute when performing interior and exterior finishing work at a certain height. The size and design of the scaffolding depends on the nature and complexity of the installation. The main purpose of this building element is to create comfortable and safe conditions when performing work. This increases work efficiency and saves time and effort.

Regardless of the type of structure, scaffolding must be reliable and durable, taking into account the location of people, materials and tools on it. The product should be placed on a prepared, solid and level area. The structure should be located at a distance of no more than 150 mm from the wall for external work and not exceed 100 mm for internal work.

Helpful advice! If the structure is used for a long time, it is necessary to provide ditches to drain rainwater from the site so that the soil does not wash out from under the racks of the device.

Scaffolding consists of the following elements:

  • racks;
  • diagonal and horizontal struts, giving the structure spatial strength;
  • flooring lintels;
  • stops designed to ensure the stability of the structure and prevent it from falling;
  • flooring made of boards where a person will stand;
  • a fencing element to protect the worker from falling down;
  • stepladders or ladders to climb to the required level.

The width of the flooring must be at least 1.5 m. The height between tiers should be at least 1.8 m. Gaps no more than 10 mm wide are allowed between the boards and boards. If a continuous flooring is being created, the boards can be overlapped along the length, having first beveled the ends of the elements.

Helpful advice! When performing external repair and construction work, it is recommended to use façade mesh for scaffolding which will prevent workers, materials and tools from falling. It will also provide protection for the finish from the sun, dust, gusts of wind and precipitation.

Depending on the composition of the functional elements and the option of their fastening, all scaffolding is divided into four types: wedge, clamp, frame and pin. The structures are attached, rack-mounted and collapsible. The exception is scaffolding, where frames are used instead of vertical posts. There are also hanging devices, which can not only be installed on the ground, but also attached to the building. These include clamp, cup and wedge scaffolding.

What material are scaffolding made from: photos of products

Scaffolding - the photos clearly show the different options - can be wooden, galvanized, steel and aluminum. The last option is the lightest and most mobile; it is advisable to use it for interior or exterior work at low heights. They are considered the strongest and most durable steel structures, which are easily repaired, which cannot be said about aluminum scaffolding. Galvanized products are also durable. Their main advantage is resistance to corrosion, so this best option for outdoor use where they can stand long time under adverse weather conditions.

The price of scaffolding made of steel and galvanized steel will be much higher than that of analogues made of other materials. In addition, such structures are the heaviest, which complicates their transportation. However, such forests can withstand not only people, but also necessary tools and materials. Therefore, steel and galvanized structures are most often used for large-scale construction and installation work.

Today, metal structures from the Dmitrov Scaffolding Plant are very popular. The products are characterized by high strength, reliability, durability and reasonable cost.

In addition to metal scaffolding, they are often used wooden crafts, which are simple and economical to implement. You can easily make them yourself from scrap materials. However, this design is more cumbersome. Despite the fact that it is collapsible, like other analogues, the boards, due to the fact that they will be dirty and damaged by nails, can hardly be used for other events. This product is designed to perform work at a maximum level of the second floor.

Frame collapsible scaffolding: price of products

Frame-type scaffolding is the cheapest and easiest to use option. The design includes ready-made elements from welded hollow pipes in the form of vertical frames, supports, horizontal and diagonal connections. Due to the fact that a lot of metal is not spent on the manufacture of elements, the design is characterized by light weight, quick installation and disassembly.

Assembly of frame scaffolding is carried out using flag fasteners or clamps. Such designs are used both for interior decoration premises, as well as during external plastering and painting works of buildings with a simple facade. Due to their low weight, scaffolding can be easily changed into sections, as well as moved to another location.

You can buy one of the types of frame scaffolding: LRSP-30, LRSP-40, LRSP-60 and LRSP-100, where the numerical value indicates the maximum installation height. However, the designs differ not only in size, but also in pipe diameter and wall thickness constituent elements. The first two types are produced with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm, and the other two are 48 and 3 mm, respectively. The price of construction frame scaffolding starts from 125 rubles/m².

The structures can be equipped with wheels, which makes it easy to move the unit on flat ground. Standard dimensions products are the following indicators: section height - 2 m, length - 2-3 m, passage width - 1 m. To perform one-time work, you can rent frame scaffolding, the price will be 55 rubles / m².

Installation of scaffolding: sequence of actions

Shoes and wooden spacers are installed on a prepared, compacted, level area. If necessary, screw supports can be placed. Adjacent frames of the first tier are placed in the shoes, followed by their connection with diagonal and horizontal connections. The next two frames with ties are placed in increments of three meters. The process is carried out until the lightweight frame scaffolding of the required length is created. Fencing frames are installed along the edges of the structure, followed by the installation of stairs.

Important! The supporting surfaces must be located strictly in a horizontal plane.

Next, they begin to install the second tier, which is also connected by ties, but the diagonal elements are staggered relative to the previous row. Here you can use crossbars on which wooden flooring is laid. To move people between tiers, inclined stairs are installed in areas designated for hatches.

Frame scaffolding is attached to the wall in a checkerboard pattern in 4 m increments using hooks with bushings or plugs with clamps or brackets attached to the scaffold frame posts. The above actions are carried out until the required installation height is reached.
On the safety and working tier there are longitudinal and end connections of the fences, which are mounted in a place where there are no diagonal ties. Scaffolding is installed vertically. Dismantling of dismountable scaffolding is carried out in the reverse order, starting from the top row.

Mobile scaffolding on wheels

The most profitable option for making quick repairs is tour scaffolding, which is considered a type of frame installation. The design is characterized by strength and ease of assembly. The mobility of the installation is ensured by wheels located at the base of the vertical supports. A significant advantage of the tower tower is the presence of a jack in the design of the device. The height of the product does not exceed 20 m. The load capacity of the installation is 300 kg/m².

The structure is made primarily of aluminum, which makes it light and easy to move. Less commonly, you can find steel tours that have high strength and reliability, but are characterized by reduced mobility due to their heavy weight.

Tower towers are actively used in the installation of air conditioners, lighting, video surveillance, banners, billboards, cornices, finishing walls and balconies, repairing gutters and roofs. There are two types of design: non-removable telescopic and collapsible. In the first option, a special mechanism is provided, thanks to which the tour extends to the required height. This type is used indoors.

For exterior finishing or repair work collapsible towers are used that have more complex design with supports and diagonal braces. Each subsequent section is built into the supports of the lower module on bushings, resulting in a dimensional structure. With an installation height of 1.3 m, the structure is equipped with railings and sides. Today you can rent a tower or buy scaffolding, the price of which is in the range of 150-200 rubles/m².

Mobile scaffolding on wheels should be used in cases where the installation location will need to be changed frequently. Special brake screws are used to secure the structure in place.

Clamp scaffolding: design features

This type of scaffolding is the most labor-intensive to assemble, since each connection of vertical supports with horizontal, diagonal and transverse connections is carried out using special clamps, which are twisted wrench. Fasteners can be blind or rotary. Depending on this, the connection of the racks can be made at right angles or at any angle, respectively. Due to the fact that the installation of the structure requires a large number of fasteners, clamp scaffolding is the most expensive.

Helpful advice! When assembling the structure, you can combine clamps, which will allow you to create an installation of the desired configuration.

Thanks to the presence of diagonal connections, the structure is durable, reliable and stable. However, this is the most difficult scaffolding option to install and dismantle.

The main advantages of the design are the possibility of manufacturing an installation of any shape and the feasibility of combining it with another version of the auxiliary rack-mount metal structure. Such a structure is mounted along the perimeter of a building of any configuration, even if there are protruding elements. The device can be used for inclined structures.

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Manufacturers produce various options clamp-type scaffolding, differing maximum height installation, which can range from 30 to 80 m. Standard width scaffolding - 1-1.5 m, layer pitch - 2-2.5 m. These parameters vary depending on the configuration of the structure. The maximum load on the structure is 150-250 kg/m. The unit can be purchased or rented. The price of scaffolding starts from 250 rubles/m2. Rent will cost 80 rubles. per m2.

Helpful advice! Clamp scaffolding is recommended to be used to create stages and stands.

Wedge construction mobile scaffolding

This design is created from functional elements using a special wedge fixation. Pipes with flanges are used as vertical components, and pipes with holders are used as horizontal components. To make the unit mobile, it is recommended to equip it with special wheels. Such scaffolding is characterized by strength and reliability. When installing the installation, you can change the direction angle of the connecting elements, thereby creating multi-level structures various configurations.

Manufacturers produce wedge scaffolding with dimensions: section height – 2 m, length – 2-3 m, passage width – 1-3 m. The structure can have a height of 60 and 100 m. The installation can withstand a large load of up to 500 kg/m², so the device used during the construction of complex objects when heavy components and materials are lifted.

Helpful advice! To ensure the safety of people who may be near the construction site, it is recommended to purchase scaffolding mesh designed to fence the facade of the building.

Scaffolding is easy to use, but requires labor-intensive installation. The design is characterized by versatility, due to which it can be used not only in the construction of buildings, but also in the construction of stages, stands, canopies, and overpasses. This is an indispensable installation in shipbuilding and aircraft construction. The cost of the structure starts from 425 rubles/m². You can rent scaffolding for 85 rubles/m².

Pin Type Collapsible Metal Scaffolding

Such structures are very popular on construction sites due to their lightweight and quick installation and disassembling the installation. As a connection point in scaffolding, pins are used, which are located on load-bearing supports. They are connected to the holes in the pipes of the connecting elements. The installations are characterized by strength, reliability, rigidity, stability, wear resistance and durability. They can be used repeatedly, easily transported from place to place in disassembled form.

Due to its high load-bearing capacity, the structure can withstand a significant amount of heavy building materials. Such forests are used in areas with difficult terrain and during construction and installation work of structures with a curved configuration. The disadvantages of the design include the large weight of the installation, which is associated with a significant amount of metal.

Today, pin-type scaffolding is sold in the following varieties:

  • LSh-50 – up to 50 m high, sectional height 2 m, length 1.5-3 m, passage width 1-2 m;
  • LSPSH-2000-4 – height 40 m, passage width 1.6 m, section height 2 m, length 2.5 m;
  • E-507 – height 60 m, passage width 1.6 m, length and height of sections 2 m.

You can buy the structure from 519 rubles/m². Also, some companies offer to rent the installation. The price of m² of scaffolding is 90 rubles/m².

DIY wooden scaffolding

If you want to save money and have wooden materials at hand, then you can create the structure yourself. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you should study the requirements for the product so that it is durable and reliable.

The distance between vertical posts should not be more than 2.5 m. The installation height reaches 6 m. The width of the flooring can be any, but not less than 1 m. It is important that not only a person can fit on it, but also the tools and materials necessary for work .

For supports and racks should be used wooden beams section 100x100 mm and boards - 50x100 mm. The thickness of the products for spacers should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness of the flooring - 50 mm. For stiffeners you will need products with a thickness of 25 mm. Thin boards can be used as fencing elements. To create a reliable design, it is necessary to use exclusively construction nails. Self-tapping screws are not capable of creating a reliable connection.

Helpful advice! When installing wooden scaffolding, care should be taken to ensure easy disassembly. For this purpose, it is not recommended to hammer the nails in completely, and you can also use a wooden spacer between the structure element and the head.

After the installation package has been prepared, we begin to assemble it. Work begins with large functional elements. Two beams are laid on a horizontal surface at a distance along the length of the structure so that the tops of the elements converge slightly, which will add stability to the installation. For example, if the distance between the lower ends is 3 m, then between the upper ends there should be no more than 2.6 m. C inside The supports are attached to the sidewalls, which are the basis for the decking. A similar operation is performed with two other bars.

Helpful advice! The side cross members must be of different lengths to result in a pyramidal structure.

The sides are positioned vertically and tilt towards each other to provide stability. The position is fixed with long transverse nails. To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall of the structure, it is recommended to make the crossbars with an allowance of 20-30 cm.

The racks are installed at a distance of 2-2.5 m, which depends on the thickness of the boards used for flooring. The elements are attached to each other using bevels, thanks to which the structure will not fold to the side. The more jibs and cross members, the stronger and more reliable the scaffolding is made with your own hands. If the height of the structure is more than 3 m, it must be additionally secured to prevent it from falling forward. To do this, they install jibs, which, on the one hand, are nailed to the beams, and on the other, buried in the ground.

The final stage is the installation of the flooring to the cross beams. It is also possible to additionally install fences above each platform to increase safety. If cross beams are added to the side elements, a staircase is formed. To give the structure stability, the ends of the supports should be sharpened and buried in the ground.

Scaffolding and construction trestles

Attached scaffolding is used for simple finishing work where lightweight materials are used. Wooden structures lean against the surface of the wall of the building and are held by the stop. Despite the fact that the installation looks unreliable, it is convenient and safe to work on it. There are two versions of the attached scaffolding: traditional and Armenian. The first installation is simple and reliable, but it is not height adjustable. It can be used for hemming the roof overhang, installing gutters and other work that is characterized by a slight variation in height.

Armenian scaffolding is made from a minimum amount of materials and is easily and quickly assembled, moved and disassembled. The main thing is to make triangles, raise them to a given height, place them in 3 m increments and support them with inclined beams that are fixed in the ground.

At exterior decoration For single-story buildings and for work on gables, construction trestles are used, where the flooring is laid on wooden crossbars. Installations are also used in cases where nothing can be supported on the walls. The design is non-bulky and lightweight, it can be moved to the desired location.

The construction goat is a four-legged wooden structure, shaped like the letter “A”, the height of which reaches the height of the master. The number of spacers can be arbitrary. Conventional canopies are used to connect the upper ends of the supports. The legs are fixed with stops. On one side the stand can be made vertically, without tilting. This will allow you to install the structure closer to the wall, which is convenient when painting, caulking or preventative treatment.

Thanks to the many options for scaffolding, it is possible to select the structure required for specific work. When choosing a product, it is important to take into account not only its cost, but also the terrain, the surface to be treated, and the timing of the work. Based on this information, it is easy to choose your type of design for each case.

Scaffolding is widely used to carry out any engineering work at a certain height. Structures are classified not only by the type of material used for installation, but also by the method of fastening the component elements. Very often the need arises when finishing the facades of private houses, when you need to quickly and easily move along the walls.

Use of wood material

It is not difficult to make such a design with your own hands. Most often, stable and durable frame-type scaffolding is installed independently. This installation requires the presence of a strong frame, which is given rigidity by installing diagonals and racks. Scaffolding of this type can be manufactured:

  1. Made of wood.
  2. Made of metal.

Wooden scaffolding is easier to install, but to ensure safety precautions, it is recommended to install them yourself only if it is necessary to carry out finishing work at a low height. For example, when finishing the facade of a house on the first floor level. This is due to the fact that when installing structures of greater height, it is difficult to provide them with the necessary rigidity and stability.

Video review: Scaffolding. Assembly secrets

Scaffolding. Assembly secrets

Metal constructions

Metal scaffolding, the frame of which is made of pipes and profiles, has a number of advantages over wooden ones, namely:

  1. Higher strength, which guarantees safety during work.
  2. Good rigidity, which ensures comfort during work.
  3. Easy to assemble as metal components are secured using simple and reliable fastening methods.
  4. Durability during storage, and therefore the possibility reusable forests
  5. Absolute fire safety.

The photo shows the finished section. It is from these elements that the design of frame scaffolding of any size is formed.

Many people are interested in whether they can trust self-assembled scaffolding. After all, working at height is always associated with danger, and, therefore, when using the structure, complete safety must be guaranteed. In this regard, the question of how to make durable scaffolding is quite relevant.

The process of installing frame scaffolding from metal components is not particularly complicated, so all installation operations can be carried out with your own hands if you have basic carpentry and metalworking skills. The main thing is to be extremely careful during installation, and perform all operations efficiently and slowly.

Frame-type scaffolding is primarily used for work on straight facades. They are considered absolutely safe when carrying out work operations at a height of up to 50 m. And this is significantly higher than what wooden structures allow.

A general diagram of the frame type design is presented below:

Installation of metal scaffolding

To build high-quality and reliable design For metal scaffolding you will need the following:

  • Profile having a cross section of 30 x 30 mm. for installation of vertical racks.
  • Pipes having a diameter of 15 mm. for mounting ties between posts horizontally and diagonally.
  • Profile having a cross section of 25 x 25 mm. to form work platform supports and protective fencing.
  • Boards about 5 cm thick to form a working platform.
  • Bolts with nuts and washers for fastening metal components.
  • Self-tapping screws for fixing boards.

Before installing scaffolding of this type, it is necessary to think over the construction plan and location of the sections. Material calculations are carried out according to ready-made drawings, which can be made in any form. But it is very important that they take into account the following: design features for each individual section:

  1. Height between tiers: 2 m.
  2. Width between posts: 1 m.
  3. Length between posts: 3 m.

The number of sections is calculated depending on the length of the wall and the height of the house.

Stages of work

Before installation, it is necessary to thoroughly compact the soil in the area where scaffolding is planned to be erected. It is also advisable to arrange a drainage system to prevent soil erosion in rainy weather.

At the first stage, pipe sections with a diameter of 15 mm are cut. the required length and required quantity according to the drawings.

On both sides, cuts are made at the ends so that they can be flattened. This will allow you to make a high-quality connection with vertical posts for which a metal profile is used.

Next on construction site The location of the vertical posts is marked. First, shoes are installed in these places, and then they are fixed in them vertical racks, which are pulled together by transverse bars and diagonal braces in the places indicated in the drawings.

Fixation is carried out using bolts, nuts and washers, which are pre-installed drilled holes. Diagonal braces are fastened in the same way at the intersection points.

After this, you should proceed to arranging the working area from boards, which are pre-cut to size. To do this, in increments of no more than half a meter per top bars a support profile is mounted between the racks. Boards are attached to it using self-tapping screws. To ensure safety, a protective fence is installed around the work site. Climbing ladder upper tier scaffolding can be purchased, or can be formed using a profile between the side posts of the frame.

Metal scaffolding can consist of several tiers. This design is formed from the required number of individual sections, which are welded together. It should be remembered that in this case, to ensure the rigidity of the product, diagonal ties must be mounted in a checkerboard pattern.

IMPORTANT! Self-made scaffolding must be reliable and the structure can support the weight of working people, tools, construction materials, and supplies.

If there is the slightest doubt about the impossibility of providing the necessary strength, preference should be given to purchased professional products.