Heating radiator: we assemble it with our own hands. Instructions for thrifty owners: how to make a heating radiator with your own hands

When standard designs to heat the premises do not meet the requirements, they make a heating radiator. Its dimensions and heat dissipation exceed those of a conventional battery. Mainly used in utility rooms, garages, where design requirements are low. They can also be installed in apartments or private houses, paying special attention to appearance.

Making your own devices for heating a room is profitable from a financial point of view. If the owner has welding machine, knows how to use, costs often result in the purchase of electrodes and payment for electricity. For homemade batteries, pipes and sheet iron that have already been used are suitable. Many people have them on their farm, and if not, you can buy them inexpensively at a scrap metal collection point.

Features of homemade batteries and scope of application

In a well-insulated room, standard radiators are sufficient for heating. Errors with thermal insulation or its absence are corrected by installing additional batteries. Since the cost is quite high, they make homemade registers, especially if there are no individual accounting consumption. This is not permitted, but in the pursuit of one's own well-being the prohibition is violated. Increase the area of ​​the heat exchanger and achieve the required temperature.

Homemade radiators are installed mainly in utility rooms and utility rooms. This is a full-fledged heating device. If you heat a garage with it, the car is always warm and is not as susceptible to corrosion as in a wet box. Little attention is paid to beauty, often making registers from pipes along the entire length of the wall. Good efficiency is ensured.

Assembling a heating radiator with your own hands is a task that is not very difficult for a person who knows welding and an angle grinder. A homemade heating device has its advantages over a purchased one:

• costs the owner less - metal from disassembled structures can be reused for manufacturing;
• installation is simple and does not require special knowledge and skills;
• high-quality assembly guarantees reliability and long service life;
• works equally successfully in a system with forced pumps and without them.

There may be some difficulties during installation; high-quality welding work will be required. If someone does not have such skills and is going to buy new material at full price, it is better to leave thoughts about homemade radiators. They will cost no less than store-bought ones. The factory battery is more efficient, no need to worry about the design.

Installing home-made radiators in an apartment is prohibited not only due to excessive consumption of energy resources, but also for safety reasons. There is no guarantee that the seams will not come apart under pressure. Then hot water will flood not only your own premises, but also your neighbors.

Design differences of radiators and calculations

Heating devices for the manufacture of which smooth-walled pipes welded together are used are more correctly called registers. The elements are arranged predominantly horizontally and are connected by jumpers for continuous coolant circulation. Radiators have a similar design, only the sections are arranged vertically.

Distribution of homemade heating devices is not due to cost savings alone. They hold much more coolant compared to industrial batteries. It's harder to heat up, but it takes a long time to cool down.

Materials – what is appropriate to use?

The leader, undoubtedly, is considered to be seamless steel pipes with a diameter of 32–150 mm with a wall thickness of at least 2.5 mm. In terms of heat transfer, they are inferior to factory-made aluminum products, suffer from corrosion, and require constant maintenance. Disadvantages are in the background when it comes to price - ferrous metal is incomparably cheaper than non-ferrous metal. In addition, it is much easier to work with.

Stainless steel is used for homemade structures in rare cases. It is almost impossible to purchase it at a low price at a store; in a store or warehouse it is expensive. Cost is not the only obstacle wide application. It will serve for a long time, but not every welder can work with it; a special device is required - one with argon.

An aluminum radiator is an ideal heating device in all respects:

• light weight;
• good heat dissipation;
• increased resistance to corrosion;
• long-term operation.

You can buy pipes from this metal and try to make a homemade register. Here the craftsman will be faced with an incredible problem: it is very difficult to solder aluminum. Despite all the attractiveness of the material, it is better to abandon this idea.

Cast iron pipes are different ease of installation. They have a flange, for connection there must be a counter, both are bolted together through a gasket. For self-made rarely used due to massiveness. The combustion chamber is an ideal material. The factory battery should be disassembled, leaving the required number of sections, then connected with steel pipes through couplings.

Dimensions – what to consider?

Making your own is not very difficult. But without correct calculations parameters there will not be proper heat transfer. The use of special formulas is complex; many factors are taken into account. In practice, a simplified version is used. You need to know the area of ​​the room - 1 kW of heat energy is required for 10 m2. The second indicator is a height of no more than 2.8 m. To correctly assemble a homemade radiator, compare it with a factory one.

Each element of a standard cast iron battery produces 160 W (0.16 kW) of heat, holding 1.45 liters of water. Knowing these characteristics, they determine how many sections will be needed for the radiator industrial production. Materials do not play a role here - the properties of steel and cast iron are almost the same. Knowing the number of elements, the volume of coolant in the battery is determined. Next, calculate the length of the pipe into which the same amount of water will enter.

Example calculation for a garage with an area of ​​24 m2, material with a diameter of 80 mm (8 cm):

• required heat output of the factory battery: 24 m2:10 m2 = 2.4 kW;
• number of sections cast iron radiator: 2.4 kW:0.16 kW= 15;
• volume of water in the battery: 15×1.45 l = 21.75 l (21750 cm3);
• cross-sectional area of ​​the pipe according to the formula S =πR2, where π=3.14, R - radius: 3.14×42 =50.24 cm3;
• required total register length: 21750 cm3: 50.24 cm3 = 432 cm.

Round to big side, we get 4.5 m. For installation indoors, the pipe is cut into three separate sections of 1.5 m each, placed in parallel and connected in series.

Register execution methods

The products differ mainly in appearance, all options come down to two. Sectional or lattice is the most common. The main pipes are connected with smaller diameters. Once in the first section, the coolant passes through the bypass channel into the second, changing the direction of movement. This continues for all elements. To ensure increased rigidity, pieces of reinforcement are welded on.

The number of sections is any, limited by the size of the room. If it is large, two pipes are often used for the entire length of the wall. For compactness, cut into shorter ones. The connection jumpers are welded closer to the ends to create fewer obstacles to the passage of the coolant.

Sectional structures are simple in design, but they use pipes different diameters. This contributes to high hydraulic resistance, making the normal passage of coolant difficult. As an alternative, serpentine radiators that are more difficult to manufacture are used. There is much less welding work, but you need to make curved elements, and this is not easy at home.

They have certain advantages over grate heating devices. Thanks to the low resistance, they heat up more efficiently, the structure is stronger and more reliable. The coil consists of straight and bent pipes, ensuring the unhindered movement of the coolant and the strength of the product. Bathrooms apartment buildings, built during the Soviet Union, were equipped with such heaters for drying towels.

The manufacture of all coils is almost the same, and sectional registers are created according to different schemes. They differ in the connection of pipes: on one side or on opposite ends. The arrangement of individual elements is selected parallel or serial.

For the manufacture of lattice and serpentine options, a profile pipe is also used. This is a slightly specific material, assembly takes place using a slightly different technology. But the advantage of such structures is their greater compactness, which is important.

The register does not need to be connected to a heating boiler. If we take the pipes large diameter, insert the heating element, fill in the waste, it will work oil radiator. This is a good device for the garage that quickly warms up the room. It does not require heat, quite a small plus. If you install a thermostat, an optimal microclimate will always be maintained.

Instructions for the manufacture of heating devices of different types

The register is made with your own hands after preliminary calculations according to the above method. Select the material. Homemade design from steel pipes And necessary accessories – economical choice.In addition to them, you will need:

• bends of suitable diameter;
• fittings or corners;
• Sheet steel;
• pipes

Valves are required to release air that accumulates due to imperfections in the design.

Preparation of grid elements and welding work

Blanks for sections are cut to size from the pipes. Convenient to use circular saw, in its absence, a grinder is used. It is difficult to make 90° ends with this tool, but you should strive. They beat off a line along the circumference, slowly and carefully draw a circle along it, and, if necessary, clean it up to straighten it.

Plugs are marked on the sheet of metal. Use an oxygen cutter, and if this is not possible, a proven home tool- Bulgarian. It is more convenient to work with a small one, with an almost worn out circle. It allows you to make parts of even small diameter. Some pancakes require a hole for inlet and outlet fittings (the number is counted). It’s easier to buy ready-made register plugs in the store - there is a large selection.

They step back quite a bit from the end edges and cut out holes to connect the register elements. Each pipe will need one or two of them - the number depends on the chosen design. Then slag and scale are removed from the inner surface. Place pancakes at the ends and scald them. The first and last pipes have plugs with holes on one side.

The finished sections are combined into a battery. With configuration heating radiator lattice shape was determined long ago, even at the calculation stage. Jumpers are made from small diameter pipes (25 or 32 mm). They will also be used for the manufacture of fittings 150–200 mm long. They are welded into plugs with holes.

Lay out the sections on a flat area, placing the ends on the same line. The first top and last elements are placed depending on the connection method - one-sided or multi-sided circuit. Install the passage jumpers into the prepared pipe holes and scald them. At long length elements to provide additional rigidity, pieces of reinforcement or angle are added between sections.

This completes the work of assembling the lattice register. It is quite heavy and will require some help to install. Together, they lift the device and hang it on prepared hooks in the wall. It remains to connect to the wiring through couplings with threaded connection, and there is a heating system.

Serpentine radiator assembly

The main difficulty in making such a structure is that bending pipes at home is not easy. A special machine is used, but this is not always possible. All that remains is to resort to welding. Get knees. Sometimes there is advice to use connections at right angles, but there is little point in this method - the hydraulic resistance increases. It’s better to make a grill radiator - less worries and easier.

Manufacturing sequence:

• cut parts of the same size;
• lay on a flat surface;
• knees are welded into the ends;
• connected by pipes;
• install plugs with holes and fittings for connection to the heating system.

It is difficult to maintain the minimum inter-pipe distance with such an assembly; the design turns out to be large-sized. In this regard, the coil loses to the lattice register, but the advantage is lower resistance to the coolant, which increases efficiency. Another plus is the lack air jams

. Despite all the advantages, such radiators are rarely made.

Battery made of profile pipes First, sections of the required length are cut from a material with sidewalls from 30 to 80 mm and passage lintels of 10 cm each. For the latter, similar material of the same or slightly smaller size is used, as well as pipes round section

. We need threaded fittings and Mayevsky valves for bleeding air. Caps are required that fit freely into the end to hide the seam in the gap.

The sections are placed on a flat surface or placed on bars. The placement is parallel with a distance between elements of 10 cm and the edges are on the same line. Places for holes are marked 5 cm from the ends, cut according to the diameter and configuration of the jumpers - square or round. They are installed and tacked, then finally welded. First, a thin seam is made with a low current, then the power is increased and the electrode is repeated.

Nozzles are connected to the plugs with holes. The placement depends on the connection diagram. A fitting is installed on the upper element and the Mayevsky valve is screwed in. The seams are cleaned with a grinder, degreased, and covered with heat-resistant enamel.

How to decorate a heating device?

A homemade heating radiator is not particularly elegant. If it is placed in a living room, you will have to close it. At the same time, it is taken into account that power is reduced. The room warms up the worse, the more area the surface without holes occupies. It is necessary to leave access to the device, for this decorative element

make it removable. The easiest way to disguise a radiator is to install a box that covers the register on all sides. He is able to decorate the room if top part

Beautiful decor is obtained using the decoupage technique. Plain paper miraculously fits dull and boring heating devices into the interior of any room.

To work you will need:

• napkins with a pattern or wallpaper;
• PVA wood glue;
• white and acrylic paint;
• brushes;
• heat-resistant varnish.

Thoroughly wash the surface and clean sandpaper, painted with white enamel. Cut out patterns from napkins and try them on at the location. Paste over starting from the top. Then, if necessary and if there are artistic abilities, the drawing is adjusted acrylic paints, coated after drying with colorless heat-resistant varnish.

Watch the video about the decoupage technique in relation to heating radiators.

Now the radiator will not only heat the room, but will also become its decoration. It took very little money and effort to make an effective and beautiful heating unit.

This article is dedicated to homemade heating devices. Sometimes they do not shine with beauty; however, the opportunity to do it yourself with minimal costs providing heat to a garage or workshop certainly attracts many of our readers. We will take a look at several designs of varying complexity made from recycled materials, old pipes and other extremely available materials.

Radiators for water heating

First, we will examine radiators designed for operation in central and autonomous heating circuits.

Register

The simplest and most affordable homemade heating radiators are made from pipes of large (100 - 250 mm) diameter, capped at the ends and connected by jumpers. These devices - the so-called registers - have a large internal volume and, accordingly, significant thermal inertia, which makes them ideal solution for systems with solid fuel boilers.

Hint: a solid fuel boiler needs lighting every few hours.
The greater the inertia of the heating system and, in particular, heating devices, the less the heated room will cool down between kindlings.

How to make a simple horizontal register?

1. Pipes are cut into sections of 1.5 - 4 meters(depending on the expected register length).
2. Holes for jumpers are drilled or burned with a gas cutter.. Important point: the configuration of the jumpers should create a closed circuit inside the device, eliminating stagnation of the coolant in dead-end areas.
3. Pipes are connected by jumpers- pipes of sizes DN20 - DN32.
4. Parallel to the jumpers, pipe sections of the same length are welded, but already welded to the blank walls. They will add rigidity to the structure.
5. The ends are capped with bottoms cut from a steel sheet 4 - 5 mm thick.
6. Nozzles are welded into the lower and upper sections, which will subsequently connect the register with the liner.

In most cases, a regular round one is used as register sections. water and gas pipe. It has an attractive low price linear meter and maximum tensile strength with minimum wall thickness, which is ensured by a circular cross-section.

However, sometimes you can find homemade heating radiators made from a profile pipe - square or rectangular. Its advantages are the relative compactness of the register and a slightly larger surface area for the same cross-sectional area.

Important: at a constant temperature of the heating device, its heat transfer linearly depends on the surface area on which heat exchanges with air.

Convector

The simplest convector is a coil of pipe with plates pressed onto it, increasing the notorious heat transfer surface. The most accessible material is steel. New buildings often serve as sources of ready-made convectors for garage owners: apartment owners in them en masse replace the heating devices installed by the builders with sectional radiators that are more attractive in appearance and have greater heat output.

However, steel has a serious drawback - low thermal conductivity. In order not to be unfounded, we will present the thermal conductivity values ​​for three metals that are most often used in the manufacture of heating devices.

It is obvious that when creating a convector it is advantageous to use non-ferrous metals: their thermal conductivity will sharply increase heat transfer, making the heating of the fins more uniform.

Homemade copper heating radiators come in all sorts of designs based on copper and aluminum plates. Aluminum fins are much more affordable compared to copper; some difference in heat transfer is compensated by its increased area.

To assemble the convector, solder intended for copper water pipes is most often used; somewhat rarer plates.

Autonomous heaters

What to do if there are no central heating and gas, but organizing a scheme with a solid fuel boiler does not allow the frequency of your visits to the premises?

In this case, it would be quite logical to use electricity for heating.

Oil radiator

The simplest homemade oil radiator is a welded register already familiar to us with several modifications.

• There are no welds for connecting to the connections.
• The register, as a rule, is made portable, which implies the presence of legs.
• Jumpers between sections are present on both sides. Their diameter is made slightly larger than when assembling a register for water heating. The instruction is due to the fact that natural convection implies minimal hydraulic head, and if so, the hydraulic resistance should also be minimal.
• A heating element or several parallel connected heating elements are installed at the end of the lower section.
• Oil acts as a coolant. Ideally, a transformer one, but even testing will do.
• The register is equipped with a small open expansion tank. As an option, the oil is not added a little to the top of the register, and the weld on its upper section is equipped with an automatic air vent.

Attention: install instead of the air vent safety valve- bad idea.
When triggered, it can douse the owner of the room with oil at a temperature of 60 - 90 degrees, which obviously will not benefit his well-being and mood.

Heater from a car radiator

Another interesting solution — homemade heater for a garage from a radiator.

The diagram is indicated by numbers:

1. Radiator.
2. Expansion tank.
3. Forced air fan.
4. A casing that protects the fan blades.
5. Water pump.
6. Oil supply pipe.
7. Actuator.
8. Fan drive belt.
9. Electric motor.
10. Frame stand.
11. Drain tap.
12. Block of heating elements.
13. Blinds for adjusting the direction of air flow.

• Partially clogged radiator tubes are not a problem. They will miss the oil.
• Optimal motor characteristics are 300 - 500 watts at 1500 rpm.
• To heat the oil, heating elements with a total power of up to 3 kW are used. It is better to provide stepwise power adjustment by switching them on separately.

• Due to the small diameter of the radiator tubes, it is not worth using mining in this design. Transformer oil or antifreeze A-40 is suitable.
• Most efficient work the heater will be at an oil temperature of about 80C. The temperature is regulated by selecting the power of heating elements and fan speed.

Conclusion

We hope that several ideas offered to the reader’s attention will help him organize heating utility rooms with minimal costs. More information, as always, can be found in the video in this article. Success in creative work!

On this page we will try to select for the desired apartment necessary installation components. The heating system of the mansion has some parts. The heating system includes automatic air ventilators, a heating boiler, a mounting system, circulation pumps, fittings, expansion tank, wires or pipes, radiators, thermostats, heat control mechanism. Each node has an important role. Therefore, it is important to select parts of the structure wisely.

Homemade heating batteries

A heating device consisting of smooth-walled pipes connected by welding is called a register. Basically, pipes located horizontally are connected by vertical short jumpers, through which the coolant also passes. The design of registers underlies the creation different types heating radiators.

Heating registers are divided into three types:

• aluminum;
• cast iron;
• steel.

Aluminum registers are in great demand due to their small size specific gravity, good heat transfer rate, excellent corrosion resistance, long service life, absence of joints and welds.

Aluminum pipes produced by monolithic casting. Aluminum registers are used in residential and administrative premises. The main disadvantage of aluminum devices is high price.

Cast iron registers are different ease of installation, because they have a flanged monolithic connection. During installation, a second flange is welded to the heating pipeline, and then a strong connection is made using bolts.

Steel registers are installed into the heating system by welding. Quality welding is guarantee of long service all heating system.

Stationary and mobile registers

To heat the coolant in stationary registers you need heating boilers. For heating the coolant in mobile registers, an electric heating element is used, operating from a network with a voltage of 220 V. This type of registers is used for work houses of builders, premises where finishing work is carried out.

The installation of registers in the room has a number of undeniable advantages before installing batteries in the heating system:

• long lifetime. pipes made of steel do not need repairs, at least 25 years;
• heating system is different high degree reliability, the main requirement for ensuring such reliability is high-quality welding seams;
• an open heating system can be installed in large areas; low resistance to the movement of the coolant ensures the large diameter of the pipes used for the register.

IN Lately registers are installed much less frequently, choosing more alternative modern heating devices. TO shortcomings This type of device includes:

• not the most attractive appearance register, a thick steel pipe is laid along the wall throughout the room;
• a small area of ​​contact with the air in the room leads to low rate heat transfer. zero use of convection;
• The supply of the heating system with registers is different high cost and the complexity of installation; large-diameter steel pipes on the construction market are quite expensive; it is necessary to use welding during installation.

Let's look at the entire heating system as one whole. The role of the register can be performed by supply pipes and a heated towel rail. When choosing a register model, you need to pay special attention to pipe diameter, of which it consists. Preference should be given to devices with pipe diameters equal to 32 mm. To make a register yourself, it is not recommended to use pipes with a diameter exceeding 80 mm. To heat the coolant in such large volumes, you need a too powerful boiler, which is not always cost-effective.

When installing an autonomous heating system in a house using registers, you need to do exact calculation number of devices and preferred diameter of pipes used. During calculation required quantity heating devices are taken into account first of all wall thickness buildings, number of windows and doorways, view building material, used to construct the building and many other factors.

When calculating pipe devices, you need to take into account only the heat transfer rate per linear meter of pipe. For a room with a ceiling height of no more 3 m and an area of ​​20 sq. meters will be needed 20 m of steel pipe with a diameter of 60 mm. The calculation itself is simple, and installing a heating system with registers is no more complicated than installing radiators.

Install registers when routing pipes below. This applies to both one-story and two-story buildings.

A heating system with registers in itself is not particularly difficult. The main requirement is to carry out welding work on top level. The complexity of installing the system can be minimized if all elements are pre-manufactured separately and designed correctly system diagram. Separately, you can assemble the pipeline and weld the register itself.

Ready-made components of the heating system can be connected to each other using threaded connections. Typically, registers are installed consisting of two horizontal pipes. If you plan to install a register under one wall (5 m) of a room with an area of ​​20 square meters. meters, the size of the device, consisting of two pipes with a diameter of 60 mm, will be equal to the length of the wall.

Important! The register is installed with a slope of no less than 0,05% according to the movement of the coolant.

In pipes with a large diameter, the coolant flows practically without resistance, and the register itself is installed as close as possible to the floor surface, which allows much improve room heating.

If you are a professional welder, it will not be difficult for you to make a register yourself. The design is simple and high quality welding. allows you to get reliable device for heating the room.

By installing the heating element into the manufactured structure and filling the pipes antifreeze or oil, you will receive a homemade oil cooler. To heat the room, just plug the device into an outlet. In this case, there is no need to install pipes, buy and install a heating boiler, control devices, or shut-off valves. You just need to assemble the register correctly to get what you need for the room heat transfer.

Why is it worth assembling the register yourself? Firstly, the factory registers have high price level. Secondly, the register design is one of the simplest. If we compare the price of steel pipes used in welding the register and the final price of the equipment itself, we will see a threefold increase in cost.

For folk craftsmen, handling welding and making a register with your own hands is not an option. a lot of work. Selected first form of future equipment. Basically these are pipes connected in parallel, but you can also make a register in the form of a coil.

Step-by-step instruction:

A heating system with registers will work much more efficiently if an electric circulation pump is installed near the boiler. In this case, the room will warm up much faster.

The video below demonstrates the manufacturing process of a heating register:

Source: http://teplo.guru/radiatory/stalnye/registr-otopleniya.html

Homemade heating batteries

Related articles:

Heating household devices manufactured at branded enterprises are efficient and safe in everyday use, have a modern or retro design, but their purchase is not always justified in everyday life.

For example, for heating production and utility rooms more the best option there will be a homemade heating radiator, which, of course, is aesthetically inferior to expensive radiators painted with powder enamel, but heats no worse. According to the principle of operation, “homemade” radiators do not differ from factory radiators, but it is not recommended to install them as a permanent source of heating for residential premises.

A heating register is a heating device consisting of a single pipe or several steel pipes connected into a single structure for coolant circulation.

Practice and calculations have shown the feasibility of using smooth-walled steel pipes with diameters from 32 mm to 219 mm in order to provide the required heat exchange surface area of ​​the register. At the same time, for the purpose of compact arrangement in a heated room, the registers are made sectional or in the form of a coil. The use of steel pipes is motivated by the ease of their assembly using welding and ensuring the tightness of the welds. To manufacture heating registers, it is not at all necessary to look for new pipes of scarce assortments.

You can use pipe scraps left over after construction and installation work at the enterprise, or find something suitable at Vtorchermet warehouses.

• The use of smooth-walled pipes predetermined two types of homemade registers for heating premises: sectional, consisting of pipes plugged at the ends, connected by steel tubes;
• smaller diameter

serpentine, that is, S-shaped.

When connecting pipes into a register structure, it is recommended to maintain a distance between the outer surfaces of 5 cm greater than the diameter from which the register is welded. This reduces mutual radiation and increases heat transfer.

The inlet and outlet pipes are threaded, but most often they are welded. We try to weld the transition pipes as close to the edge as possible. Additional jumpers provide structural rigidity. The most in demand for sectional registers are steel pipes with diameters from 76 to 159 mm. Welds must maintain tightness at a pressure of at least 13 atm.

It is important! By piling register pipes horizontally one above the other, it is impossible to achieve a linear increase in the thermal power of a homemade battery. Rising already heated by the lower pipes air flow less able to accept heat from a hot coolant, that is, the coolant will give off less heat.

Unlike straight registers, in which large-diameter pipes are connected by smaller pipes, a coil can be thought of as a solid pipe in which the connecting arcs have the same diameter as the horizontal ones. The S-shape is more efficient because the entire surface of the pipe is involved in heat exchange.

Due to the absence of intermediate pipe narrowings and sections with changes in the direction of the coolant, the coil has low hydraulic resistance.

If you make a heating battery with your own hands, you should not recklessly rush to any cheap pipe. Definitely won't fit profile pipes, which will definitely leak along the technological weld. Pipes for registers must be well welded, so St45 steel is not advisable.

Homemade heating batteries made from of stainless steel, which are functionally heated towel rails in bathrooms.

Craftsmen do an excellent job of polishing stainless steel, bending it using primitive pipe benders and creating openwork coil structures. The sluggishness of factory services does not allow them to keep up with savvy folk craftsmen, so the lion's share of household stainless steel batteries is handicraft. Installing a heating system in a private house is the main task of any person who wants comfortable and. safe life Stove heating not relevant for a large room, since the coefficient useful action

designed for only 20-30 m2. The radiator system is a significant expense, so savings are the main aspect to pay attention to. Why spend a lot of money on something you can do yourself? Savings on metal parts

and on fittings is about 90% of the market value of finished equipment.

The main advantages of do-it-yourself radiators:

1. An opportunity to express yourself, your imagination and give the room an interesting look.
2. Independent assessment of heat loss or heat transfer, drawing up an individual installation plan, according to the characteristics and purposes of operation of the residential premises.
3. Use of available materials, spare parts and equipment.

In order to make a battery with your own hands, you will need:

• welding machine (not necessarily powerful);
• electrodes;
• sheet of stainless steel of special strength (from 3 mm), size 100x500 mm;
• steel pipes: grade VGP Du-25, 20 cm long; length 2 m, diameter 100x3 mm;
• Squeegee brand Du-25, length 100mm x 2 pcs.;
• plug brand DN -25 x 1 pc.;
• grinder with a circle for metal (grinding machine).

Note: It is best to use cast iron: although it is heavy, it is much cheaper than, for example, aluminum. The disadvantage of cast iron is its fragility, so you will have to work with it carefully.

Let's start making a homemade radiator

Let's look at the progress of the work point by point:

1. To cook load-bearing frame, steel pipes are required. For greater efficiency and heat transfer, it is better to use large-diameter pipes. Scraps or scrap metal will do - the main thing is that they are in good condition and are not covered with rust. If the pipe has threads or other metal elements, then they need to be cut down. All pipe edges must be smooth and free of burrs.
2. Calculate the power of the future radiator system. In order to correctly distribute batteries around the house, you need to record the square footage of the living space.

Expert advice: feel free to take calculations for standard cast iron pipes, you can't go wrong!

For example:

We measure primary indicators: external diameter pipes = 12cm; inner diameter pipes = 9.5cm; thickness of the outer wall of the battery = 3.5 cm; cross-sectional area = 7.8 cm.

1. You can add your own nuances to the design of the battery: if you often experience airing of pipes, freezing of water or heating fluid, or water hammer, then install a special swivel-type valve. At the right time, you can easily restore pressure in the system.
2. The battery can have any number of sections. It all depends on the type of room where it will be attached:

• V large room(more than 30 m2), it is advisable to install a three-section radiator;
• for a bedroom, office or children's room, a two-section is enough;
• For basements, warehouses, storerooms, where it is necessary to maintain a minimum positive temperature at any time of the year, a single-section radiator can be installed.

1. Before you start working with the angle grinder, clear some space around you. Make sure the extension cord is at a safe distance .

Specialist's note: Remember safety precautions when working with power tools!

1. Take a large diameter pipe and cut it into 3 equal parts.
2. In each part, make holes at an angle of 180 degrees and a diameter of 2.5 cm, using a power tool equipped with a ballet-shoe attachment. Pay attention to the distance between the holes: they need to be made by measuring 5 cm from the end on both sides. As a result, you will get a design in which the holes are located both in the lower and in the upper parts of the pipe.
3. Clean pipes and sharp edges of holes with coarse sandpaper to remove any metal shavings.
4. Next, take a thin pipe with a diameter of 20 cm and measure it in the middle. Then cut with a grinder to make 2 pieces of 10 cm each. Weld these pieces of pipes to the structure of large pipes, so as to form a cross-shaped water circulation system.
5. Cut thin rods and weld them to the opposite side of the structure made of large pipes. Thus, you will get a rigid and stable frame that can withstand strong water pressure.
6. To secure the resulting frame, install the brackets: one bracket is welded to the inlet hole, and the second to the outlet.

Good to know: In order to check the radiator for leaks, it is necessary to close the lower outlet with a plug. Fill the upper outlet with water and observe: if there is still a leak, then drain the water, dry the radiator and weld the gap.

If you have central or steam heating, you can make a battery from ordinary water pipes plastic pipes. They are light weight, low price and quick to install.

To increase the temperature in a living room or apartment, a pipe structure is welded to a ready-made profile battery. These manipulations are subject to approval by the chief engineer of the housing and communal services and registration with state utility services.

The danger of carrying out this type of work by an incompetent specialist is that the registers will record a decrease in pressure and such “work” will lead to airing of the water supply system of the entire residential building. To avoid trouble, you must completely turn off the water supply and block the inlets.

It is important to know: under no circumstances should you crash homemade designs without the presence of a specialist. A sharp water hammer can lead to depressurization of a welded radiator.

As practice has shown, 15-16 battery ribs are needed per 20 m2. This is quite enough to support optimal temperature at +20 degrees Celsius.

Watch the video in which a specialist explains how you can make a heating radiator with your own hands:

You can make heating radiators from pipes yourself.

Available in construction supply stores big choice heating equipment. Its use in some cases is not justified due to its high cost. Self-made heating radiators from pipes are used in garages, technical buildings and other office and production premises.

The production of such batteries is usually carried out from used materials. Such radiators are relatively inexpensive and quite functional. They are used quite widely in enterprises due to their simplicity and sufficient efficiency. In closed-type heating systems, it is beneficial to use this type of device for several reasons:

1. the possibility of manufacturing from available materials without the use of complex and special tools;
2. installation manufacturability;
3. high reliability and ease of operation and maintenance.

The costs of producing such heating equipment for an enterprise or garage owner will consist only of time and labor.

Features of calculating the required number of batteries for heating

Cast iron or steel radiators have the same thermal conductivity coefficient; in fact, they are varieties of iron. In the approved calculation methods, we proceed from the volumes of coolant in standard batteries. For one section of a cast iron heating device, this value is equal to one and a half liters. The heat output of this element ranges from 150 to 170 W.

One section of a cast iron radiator can be replaced with a two-meter homemade device.

Through simple calculations, it was established that 1 section will correspond to approximately a two-meter homemade heating device.

Standard cast iron battery will replace cylindrical radiators total length at 20 meters.

The compactness of such a large structure can be achieved if several sections are connected in parallel.

This scheme involves installing pipes horizontally, which makes it possible to use convective processes to heat the air in the room.

Radiators made of steel pipes have rather low efficiency. A cylinder with a given volume has smallest area outer surface, which limits its heat transfer. This disadvantage can be compensated for in only one way: by increasing the length of the registers. Such expansion is possible only to certain limits and is limited by the size of the room.

Advice! Increasing the usable area of ​​heating devices made from pipes is possible due to their parallel arrangement in several tiers.

The individual registers are combined into a battery with serial connection. The coolant passes through the first element of the system and enters the second through the bypass channel, changing direction to the opposite.

Required materials and equipment

Tubular heating radiators are made in the vast majority of cases from rolled steel that has been taken out of service. You should first assess the degree of wear, especially the thickness of the walls. In heating systems, pressure can reach three or more atmospheres. A wall damaged by corrosion may not withstand it and burst, which will lead to coolant leaks. When selecting pipes, it is recommended to carry out defect detection and condition monitoring.

Before starting work, it is worth checking for defects and monitoring the condition of the pipes.

The most commonly used standard sizes of rolled steel for making registers are 100 and 120 mm. Radiators made from such materials have optimal characteristics in terms of heat transfer and layout. The ends of heating devices must be capped, for which a steel sheet is used the desired shape. In such heating systems, registers are connected in sequential order.

Bypass channels and fittings for connection are made of water pipes smaller diameter. In the vast majority of cases, in order to reduce costs, these materials are also taken from scrap metal collection points. The fittings are threaded to connect them to heating circuits using couplings and bends.

The technological cycle begins with the preparation of materials and cutting of workpieces to the required length. Radiators in different schemes heating systems have a certain configuration, therefore, when performing this operation, sufficient high accuracy. The cut is performed in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the register.

Advice! A sheet of paper wrapped around a cylinder with the edges aligned produces a precise line for metalworking.

Welding work It's better to leave it to a professional.

The ends of heating registers made of large-diameter steel pipes must be closed.

A round plug with a diameter of 105 or 125 mm, respectively, is cut out of a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm. This part must be welded to the end of the section. The seam is made by gas welding with tightness control.

At some distance from the edge, a hole for the bypass channel is cut out on the side surface of the register.

Radiators made from water pipes with a fairly large cross-section are connected into sections.

Important! Welding work must be performed by a highly qualified specialist who is able to ensure the quality and reliability of the seams.

The bypass channel ensures free flow of coolant from one part of the battery to another.

Radiators welded from metal pipes connected to the space heating system.

Registers made of large-diameter pipes are installed in heating systems using pre-threaded couplings and bends. The inlet and outlet pipes cut into plugs and are secured to them with a weld. The assembled radiators must ensure the free passage of water from the supply point to the return collector. Practice shows that this is not difficult to achieve with sufficiently large sections.

Radiators, welded from metal pipes, are installed in their designated places and connected to the space heating system. Commissioning work consists of filling the circuits with water or antifreeze and turning on the pumps. While the equipment is operating under pressure, joints and seams are checked for leaks. Steel registers from waste materials ready to go.

Industrial tubular radiators

Industry also produces products of this kind. Steel tubular radiators are a heating device consisting of lower and upper collectors. They are connected to each other by tubes arranged vertically in two or three rows. Fins are not installed on such devices to increase the usable area. A pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is used for collectors, and 25 mm for heat exchangers.

The heating device is capable of withstanding a maximum pressure of up to 12 atm, and the use of tubes with a galvanized surface ensures high stability to corrosion. The thickness of the rolled steel used is 1.5 mm. There are two main layout diagrams of such equipment with heat exchangers arranged parallel and perpendicular to the collectors.

Taking into account technical characteristics tubular batteries are recommended for use in multi-apartment buildings residential buildings And public buildings. The design of these devices fits well into the design of the premises for various purposes and stylistics. The absence of sharp corners makes it possible to use them in preschools, educational and medical institutions. Due to the absence of fins, they are easily cleaned from dust and dirt.