Planting a tree peony in spring in open ground. How to plant peonies in spring

Peonies – wonderful decoration landscape, perennials with green decorative foliage and large flowers are good in single and group plantings. The plants are hardy and not capricious. Planting peonies and caring for them in open ground will not be difficult, but are associated with certain rules. Experienced gardeners share the secrets and features of growing flowers.

Landing rules

Even before purchasing a seedling, it is worth deciding on the place and time of planting. When to plant peonies in spring or autumn is chosen according to the prevailing circumstances. But if possible, it is better to postpone the work to September. When deciding where to plant flowers, consider the requirements that ensure healthy growth and lush flowering of bushes:

  1. The area should be well lit, a little shade is acceptable for several hours a day.
  2. Stagnation of moisture is not allowed, the presence of groundwater is closer than 70-80 cm.
  3. The place should not be blown by winds.
  4. Soil acidity is neutral or slightly alkaline pH 6.5-7. The soil structure is loose, loam is good.

The soil

2-3 weeks before you plan to plant the division, prepare a hole with fertile soil. You will need:

  • rotted manure (horse or cow) and compost 5-6 kg;
  • wood ash (2 cups);
  • dolomite flour 200-500 g, the amount depends on the acidity of the soil, the higher the indicator, the more fertilizer;
  • 100 g each of superphosphate and potassium sulfide.

The structure of heavy clay soil is improved with sand (1 bucket), and clay is added to sandy soil. Interesting information You will find information about planting and growing perennials in the article.

Landing scheme

Peony bushes grow in one place for about 10 years. A spacious hole is required for their roots, which grow significantly over such a period of time. Its dimensions are 80:80:80 cm. A drainage layer (1-15 cm) is required at the bottom. Any materials that allow moisture to pass through well are suitable: sand, broken brick, expanded clay, pebbles. Soil is poured onto the drainage, along with all the prepared ingredients. The fertile layer should be located under the root of the plant.

In dry weather, before planting the division, water the soil. In autumn, due to rains, the ground is quite wet, so watering from above is sufficient. Very important point– at what depth to plant the peony. Recommended distance from renewal buds to the surface:

  • heavy soils – 3-5 cm;
  • light (sandy) – 5-7 cm.

Advice. If the hole was not prepared in advance, the soil will shrink. Take this into account when placing the seedling. In such a situation, the division is placed slightly above the recommended depth.

If a mass planting is planned, at what distance from each other should peonies be planted? Plants need large amounts nutrients from the soil and free air movement. In dense, overgrown bushes, weak flowering is observed and diseases spread. Optimal distance between perennials 80-100 cm. It is advisable that such a gap be observed for other large bushes.

Care and cultivation

Not only the plot, but the flower itself needs preparation for planting. For preventive purposes, the seedling is treated with a solution of fungicides “Maxim” and “Fundazol”. This procedure prevents fungal infections. To accelerate root growth, stimulants “Epin” and “Heteroauxin” are used. In the first year, the young plant is fed by leaves. Mineral substances in the form of tablets are dissolved in water and sprayed on the bush.

The seedling requires regular watering; in the absence of precipitation, water it every week. Loosening the soil is carried out according to the same schedule - after heavy rain and watering. Weeds are removed constantly. Loosening helps reduce their number.

Flower growers pass on the tricks of growing peonies to their children and grandchildren. They share secrets with enthusiasts. Lack of flowering or small buds is a common problem. What reasons do experts give:

  • Deep root planting.
  • The plant is young and has not gained enough strength to flower.
  • The opposite situation is that the bush is too old and requires division and rejuvenation by pruning. The rate of aging depends on the variety; plants of the same age behave differently.
  • Diseases, it is worth carefully examining the above-ground part and the root. Pay attention to light and dark spots, soft areas.
  • Excessive peony pruning last year. If a significant portion of the stems and leaves are taken for cutting, then flower buds may not form.
  • Problems with agricultural technology: acidic soil, lack of moisture and nutrition.

One of the nuances of growing is to plant the peony in February in order to preserve the root until spring. This procedure is rarely carried out; most seedlings are purchased before planting or stored in the refrigerator. The flower requires a spacious container with fertile soil. Before planting in April, it is kept in a cool place.

Peonies are popular flowers, so they are used for forcing. Mostly terry French varieties are taken early flowering, with a pleasant aroma. Growing peonies in a greenhouse requires additional lighting. Selected bushes are dug up in the fall and temporarily planted in pots with fertile soil. 2 months before the planned forcing date, they are planted in a greenhouse. They grow at a temperature of 20-22° and good lighting. In spring, peonies are returned to open ground.

Growing secrets:

  • To ensure lush flowering of the bush, faded buds are immediately removed.
  • When cutting, leave as much greenery necessary for nutrition as possible.
  • The amount of moisture and fertilizer, the health of the bush in the current season is directly related to the quality of flowering next year. The better care you take for the plant, the larger the buds.
  • A circular support made of plastic or iron provides support for the stems. It cannot be replaced by tying.

Care after flowering

Depending on the peony variety, flowering ends in June-July. Some gardeners do serious mistake, cutting off the stems at the root. This is absolutely not possible. Thanks to the lush green foliage, the plant actively accumulates the substances necessary for the formation of new flower buds. It is enough to simply cut off the flower stalks and remove the fallen petals.

2 weeks after flowering, the last feeding is performed. Phosphorus-potassium preparations and organic matter are added.

Transplanting peonies in spring to another place

Peonies live for decades in one place, but the roots of an adult plant grow strongly. They become crowded, the supply of nutrients deteriorates, and the bush blooms poorly. The only way out in such a situation is replanting with division of the rhizome. This is a complex procedure, because digging up a perennial is quite problematic. When to replant peonies in spring or autumn? Optimal time for any planting work with the plant, this is the beginning of autumn. Flowers have time to take root in a new place, and with the arrival of winter they do not have to waste energy on growing the above-ground part.

If the right moment is missed, is it possible to replant peonies in the spring before flowering? This option is possible if the snow melts early and the ground thaws. A place is first selected away from groundwater, drafts and shade. When preparing the soil, mineral fertilizers are applied. Experienced gardeners know how to replant plants so that they bloom the following year. The secret is simple, you need to dig up a bush with a lump of earth, while trying not to damage the suction roots. You cannot deepen the buds more than 5 cm. The plant will take a long time to germinate and will not bloom.

Information. Trimming old, overgrown or rotten roots benefits the plant.

When replanting peonies, do not forget about watering. Plants under stress require large quantity water. It is advisable to mulch the soil, this will help retain moisture longer. Once a week, loosen the soil around the bush. Before replanting peonies, treat them with a solution of any fungicide “Maxim”, “Fundazol”, and spill the soil on the new one with potassium permanganate. This will prevent fungal infections during a period when the plants are weakened and vulnerable.

Planting peonies in autumn

The optimal time for planting peonies is from late August to mid-September. It can move in both directions in different ways climatic conditions. The choice is related to the growth and rooting characteristics of flowers. Peonies planted in the fall grow in cool conditions root system. Their buds are preparing for hibernation; nutrients are not wasted on green mass and flowering. Autumn rains will provide sufficient moisture.

Advice. If the work took place in late autumn, you should make a cover with a layer of up to 10 cm.

Autumn care

The main work associated with caring for peonies occurs in spring and summer. During this period, watering, fertilizing, weeding and loosening are carried out. At the end of the growing season, plants are prepared for winter. Mature bushes require minimal care. They need to be cut and covered with wood ash. In cold regions, tree peonies are protected from frost with a hut made of spruce branches or a shelter made of non-woven material.

Another point that inexperienced gardeners miss is that renewal buds located at a shallow depth eventually approach the surface. If initially they were lowered by 5 cm, then with the growth of roots and erosion of the soil they may end up 1-2 cm from the soil level. In winter, the buds will suffer from frost. Before the onset of cold weather, it is necessary to rake the soil to the bushes.

How to plant peonies in spring

Seedlings purchased in winter are grown at home. Having no growing experience, people wonder whether they can be planted in the spring or will they have to wait until the fall? If necessary, peonies are planted at the wrong time. When can you transplant them into open ground? Immediately after the snow melts. It's not worth the wait high temperature, in spring, planting dates are April, early May (for cold regions).

The technology for selecting and preparing a site for planting in the ground is the same as for autumn work. The pit should be spacious, there should be drainage at the bottom, the soil should be fertile and loose. At what depth should I plant? Taking into account soil shrinkage, place the root 2 cm above the recommended depth so that the buds are 2-3 cm from the surface. After planting and watering, mulch the soil. How to properly care for a seedling? In the first year, watering, loosening, and weeding are necessary.

How to save peonies before planting

A true flower lover cannot pass up the opportunity to purchase good variety peonies for a reasonable price. In winter, stores often sell seedlings in boxes or bags. Their roots are wrapped in sphagnum moss, peat or a small amount of soil. If the seedling spent a lot of time in a warm, dry room, this had a bad effect on the condition of its rhizome. Purchased material must be inspected and evaluated appearance. If the root looks good and the buds have not awakened, the peonies are kept in the refrigerator before planting in the spring.

Advice. Buy sections of adult bushes that are older than 4 years. They look less attractive than the roots of young plants, but quickly take root and begin to bloom.

But more often the situation arises when the root looks sick, but the buds have begun to grow. Vegetation occurs due to rhizome reserves. They will soon dry up and the plant will die. A decision must be made on how to preserve the roots before planting in the ground. There is only one way out - temporarily plant it in a spacious container, and move it to the garden in the spring. Use pots with a volume of at least 5 liters or plastic eggplants. Holes must be made at the bottom to allow water to drain.

The bottle or pot is filled with ready-made universal soil for flowers. The seedling is disinfected in a solution of the fungicide “Maxim” or “Skor”. It is recommended to treat it with a growth stimulator afterwards. Soil is poured into the container and the root is planted. Well moisturizes. Peony is kept in a cool, bright room. This the best way for those who are interested in how to preserve seedlings purchased in March. Under natural conditions, plants need a “cold start”. At low temperatures, suction roots grow, providing nutrition.

Advice. Place a plastic bag with holes in the container before adding soil. When transplanting, it will be easier to remove the seedling with a lump of earth.

How to plant store-bought peonies in spring

What to do with a seedling bought in a box in the spring? There is no point in waiting for autumn, because peonies take root even in spring planting. At the beginning of the growing season, the soil temperature is still low, so the plant will have time to grow roots before the buds revive. The success of cultivation primarily depends on the purchase of high-quality planting material. When choosing, the information on the packaging is evaluated. A bona fide manufacturer must indicate:

  • peony variety;
  • number and age of divisions;
  • description of the plant;
  • landing instructions.

The roots of herbaceous tulips are sold in plastic bags. Through the transparent film you can see their color and condition, as well as the number of renewal buds. There must be at least two of them. The normal length of thin lateral roots is 5-6 cm.

Attention. There should be no nodular formations, dark areas, or cracks on the division. If planting material If it feels soft or dry to the touch, it is better to discard it.

Spring planting technology

The location for the purchased plant is selected in advance. It should be well lit, not damp. Flower roots grow over a considerable distance, so a deep and spacious hole is required, which is filled with:

  • a layer of drainage (sand, broken brick, gravel);
  • garden soil with compost, ash, superphosphate.

The hole is filled 2/3 with soil, and the root is laid. There should be 3-5 cm from its buds to the surface. The hole is filled with the remaining soil. The seedling is watered abundantly (10-15 liters of water). The top is mulched with compost. The first month requires regular moisturizing.

Peonies from a box and grown in containers are planted using the transshipment method. This is the least traumatic way. Usually, by the time of planting, foliage appears on the stems. In some cases, buds are formed that need to be removed. A hole is dug under the seedling and drainage is arranged at the bottom. The peony is carefully removed from the container, pulling it out by the edges. plastic bag. The plastic is torn, and the seedling with soil is placed in a hole. The free space is filled with a fertile mixture according to the usual planting recipe. Water with plenty of water.

How to germinate peony seeds at home and in the garden

Growing peonies from seeds is usually practiced by breeders. For an ordinary gardener, this method of propagation is complex and time-consuming, and the result is questionable. New bush does not always inherit the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. Enthusiasts will find propagating peonies by seeds an exciting activity. The fruit of the plant is a green star-shaped leaflet. After ripening, it is filled with oval shiny black seeds, as in the photo.

Advice. Do not wait for the seeds to ripen; pick them when they are light brown. Collection time is the second and third ten days of August.

The main problem that you will have to face is low seed germination. Especially it concerns purchased material. Open the bag and see what the seeds look like. If they are dry and wrinkled, soak for 2-3 days. You can add a few drops of Zircon growth stimulator to the water. Why do such problems arise? The seeds of herbaceous and tree peonies have a very strong shell, but the embryo is weak.

You can grow a seedling in open ground or at home. Under natural conditions, it will germinate for 2 years. After the first winter, a root will appear, and after the second, a growth bud will appear. Information on how to grow a peony at home will help you shorten this period. The secret is to create the conditions for effective stratification. Seeds are alternately exposed to prolonged exposure to heat and cold.

Advice. Before planting, soak the seeds for 12 hours in a solution of Epin and Zircon.

To germinate seeds you will need a container with a layer of soil (3 cm) and a layer of sand (3 cm). The soil is watered abundantly. The swollen planting material is laid out on the surface, covered with 1 cm of sand. The container is covered with film or glass. Then for two months it is kept at a temperature of 28-30° C during the day and 15° C at night. Periodically moisten the soil. After the warm phase, roots appear.

Before the start of the cold phase, the seeds are planted in separate containers and taken out to visit at a temperature of 6-8 ° C. The duration of this stage is up to 4 months. If the result is positive, the first leaf appears. Until the time comes to plant the flower in a permanent place, it is kept in a pot. In warm weather, they are taken out into the garden for hardening.

Basic rules for growing peonies from seeds:

  • Use fresh planting material.
  • You can rub the dry shell with sandpaper.
  • Subject the seeds to stratification according to the scheme warm-cold-warm or cold-warm-cold.
  • Use plant growth stimulants.

How to plant peonies in spring

When choosing the period when to plant flowers in spring or autumn, give preference to the second option. Simultaneously with the transplantation, the peony bush is divided. The procedure has its own nuance - each part should be approximately the same size. Do not make large cuttings, as these are the ones that prevent flowering next summer. The plant has enough nutrients in the root; it does not strive to develop. Before replanting peonies, trim off some of the roots. It is enough to leave 10-15 cm. This procedure stimulates plant growth. Treat the cut areas with ash or fungicide.

How to plant flowers correctly

A spacious pit of 60:60:60 cm is prepared in advance for the seedling. Drainage is arranged at the bottom. The excavated soil is mixed with compost, ash and mineral fertilizers. If the soil is clay, you will need a bucket of sand for dilution. Acidic soil is neutralized by adding dolomite flour 300-500 g. Diluted mullein or chicken droppings are suitable as an organic additive.

Important. Flowers are planted at a distance of 1 m from each other. This scheme will ensure that you receive sufficient nutrients.

They dig up the ground around the bush at a distance of 40-50 cm. The root is loosened and removed with a shovel, but it is better to use a pitchfork. The rhizome is washed and inspected. All dark and soft areas are removed. The sections are treated with a fungicide. You can completely place it in a manganese solution for 30-40 minutes. Adult peonies have a fairly strong root; cutting it requires a sharp knife, and in some cases a saw. Experts advise leaving the rhizome in the air for 2-3 hours. It will wilt and become softer.

Before dividing the peonies, cut lines are marked. There should be enough roots and buds left on each part. It is recommended to briefly immerse the separated seedlings in “Heteroauxin”, this is a fertilizer and growth stimulator. After planting in the prepared place, the plant is watered abundantly. In the spring, it will not require feeding, because all the necessary nutritional components are placed in the hole. In the fall, it is worth adding organic fertilizer.

Another way to propagate peonies is by cuttings and layering. Before flowering begins, the stem of an adult bush is cut into cuttings 10-15 cm long. Each should have 2 internodes. Leaves are cut in half. The lower part of the cut is placed in a solution of the drug that stimulates root formation “Kornevin”, “Epin” for 1-2 hours. The cutting is stuck into a container with damp sand mixed with compost. For better germination, greenhouse conditions are created - covered with plastic film.

The soil is regularly moistened with a spray bottle, and the cover is removed for ventilation. By autumn, the cuttings should take root and can be planted in a permanent place. Due to the low survival rate of plants, this method is rarely used. they don't reproduce. There is another modification of the method. In the spring, at the beginning of April, a fence is installed over the plant from a box with the bottom removed. Fertile soil is poured into it. The buds that appear on the stems are removed. In autumn the fence is removed. The shoots are exposed to the point where new roots form. The shoots are cut off and transplanted into prepared holes.

One of the options for propagating tree peonies is layering. The method is simple and effective. In spring, the side shoot is cut in the middle. This area is treated with a root formation stimulator. The shoot is bent, secured and sprinkled with soil. Watered during the growing season. By autumn, roots will form and cuttings can be cut off from the mother bush.

Caring for peonies in spring

What to do with peonies in spring depends on the species being grown. The basic work is absolutely the same, but there are characteristic nuances. In persistently warm weather, winter shelter is removed from tree peonies. Beginner gardeners are worried about when to open peonies in the spring, at what temperature? These flowers are resistant even to sub-zero temperatures, so in April you can safely get rid of the auxiliary materials that protected the bushes in winter. The shoots are inspected and sanitary pruning is carried out to the first bud. Dried stems can be shortened to soil level.

Herbaceous varieties need fertilizing and watering. About the types and optimal timing The article will tell you about applying fertilizers. Additional food required for adult bushes aged more than two years. Mineral compounds are used first. Urea granules are dissolved in water or scattered on the ground. This fertilizer will give required amount nitrogen, responsible for the formation of green mass.

In total, during the growing season, flowers should receive 3 feedings: at the beginning of the season, during the formation of buds and at the end of summer. The drug recommended for plants is Kemira. It contains a balanced amount of essential minerals. To improve the soil structure and develop beneficial microflora, Baikal EM-1 is used. Additionally, foliar feeding is carried out. Mineral tablets are dissolved in water and the leaves and stems are sprayed.

Caring for peonies in the spring after winter includes clearing debris and loosening the soil. You need to wait until the first leaves appear so as not to damage them during work. During the growing season, the plant needs moisture. In April, peonies require regular watering; this is the main care at the beginning of the season. After moistening, do not forget to loosen the soil. It is also worth thinking about installing a support. Stems in windy areas or under the weight of lush inflorescences sink to the ground. The size of the support should be half the height of the bush.

Giving advice on spring care, experienced gardeners note the importance of preventing plant diseases. Fungal spores often reside in the soil, waiting for a favorable increase in humidity levels. Prevent dangerous infections (gray and root rot, spotting) will allow treating peonies with Bordeaux mixture. The soil is disinfected with a manganese solution. Detailed recommendations on flower treatment you will find in the article.

Advice. To make the buds larger, remove the lateral ovary.

What year do peonies bloom after planting?

The impatience of gardeners waiting for the first flowers to appear on peony bushes is well understandable. The time of appearance of peonies depends on the age of the planting material. If you bought a 3-4 year old seedling and planted it in well-fertilized soil in the fall, there is a chance you will see flowers in a year. The tree peony blooms even later, at 5-6 years. According to the rules, when peonies begin to bloom for the first time, their buds are cut off. This makes it possible to direct all forces to the development of the root.

The flowering period depends on the variety: early ones produce buds in early June, medium ones - in the second half of the month, late ones - in early July. The flowering period is 8-15 days. It depends on the variety; double forms bloom longer than simple ones. A real record holder, pleasing with its buds for almost a month, is the Bartzella variety. The ITO hybrid with yellow petals blooms with medium-sized peonies and fades with late ones.

Majestic and lush peonies decorate our gardens in late spring and early summer (depending on the latitude of the region, the flowering time of peonies varies from late April to mid-July). In general, a single peony bush blooms for only 2 weeks, but by selecting varieties with different flowering periods, you can extend this beauty for about 1.5 months. I’ll make a reservation right away - the conversation in this article is only about herbaceous peonies and ITO hybrids; caring for these types of peonies is absolutely the same (we didn’t even try to grow tree-like peonies, since we heard from the experience of various friends that this idea is practically useless in the Moscow region).

There is no doubt that it is necessary to divide peony bushes in the fall (in the Moscow region, the time for dividing peonies falls in the second half of August - the very beginning of September). But what if already in February flower shops cuttings of peonies are on sale, but in September you won’t see many of them there. I am often asked the question: “Is it possible to plant peonies in the spring?” I answer: “It’s possible, you just need to follow certain rules...” I’ll tell you about these rules first.

In spring, peonies are planted in the ground as soon as the ground thaws (not warms up, but rather thaws). The earlier a peony is planted in the ground, the more successfully it will develop further. If you delay planting and wait until the warm days of May, the root will begin to grow above-ground shoots to the detriment of rooting. In turn, young and juicy shoots will begin to draw the last vital forces from the root, but there is nothing for it to feed on - it has not had time to form young suction roots. The result is usually an unsuccessful experience in the spring planting of peonies; the depleted root, if it does not die, will not be able to form a proper root system and form flower buds for a long time.

Eat two options for planting peonies in the ground in early spring:

  • 1st option ... If you know in advance that you plan to buy peonies in the spring, prepare for them planting pits in the fall, and in the spring quickly plant them immediately in a permanent place.
  • 2nd option ... If the purchase of peonies is not planned in the fall, and the planting holes are not prepared (a properly prepared planting hole is the key to success in growing peonies), as soon as the ground thaws, you need to dig the root into any seedling bed before the fall, and prepare the planting hole during the summer , and in early September dig up the root and plant it in a permanent place.

Once again, I’ll make a reservation that in the spring peonies must be planted in cold soil.

If for some reason you cannot get to your beds at the very beginning of the growing season, you can plant the roots in pots and keep them in these pots until August-September. But temperature regime they need to create approximately the same as it would be when planted in the ground, that is, change of day and night temperatures is required , and night temperatures are desirable no higher than +5...+10, and daytime temperatures no higher than +14...+20 degrees. For rooting peonies in pots, unheated terraces and loggias are suitable, and not a window sill in a room. Under no circumstances should you keep containers with spring-planted peonies in a heated room! IN summer time Place pots of peonies in the garden in partial shade, water them as they dry out. You should not be afraid that you are not always at the dacha, and the pots may dry out - peonies can go without watering for a long time, completely drying out the soil in the pots is undesirable, but this is better than the pot floating in a puddle. If, according to weather forecasts, there are only hot and dry days ahead, place the pots somewhere in strong shade and in thick grass, and if cloudy and rainy weather is predicted for a long time, then it is better to put the pots in an open place.

Now let's talk why do peonies need a planting hole, and how to prepare it.

Peonies can grow in one place for up to 25 years, although after 10-15 years the bush should still be divided, since on very old bushes the flowers become much smaller. The peony planting site should not be flooded spring waters, full sun is preferable, but partial shade is also possible. The soil should be rich, well-drained and loose.

Planting holes for peonies must be prepared in advance (for autumn plantings in July, for spring plantings - in the fall). By the time of planting, the soil in them should settle and be slightly compacted. If you plant roots in a newly made hole, there is a high probability that when the soil settles, the root will sink deeper than necessary, and this will affect flowering.

Dig a hole 60 cm deep and 60-70 cm in diameter (when planting several peonies in a row, it is more advisable to dig a trench; the distance between the centers of the bushes should be at least 70 cm). You set aside the top cultural layer of soil, and simply throw away the deeper layers. In areas with heavy soil, be sure to pour drainage from broken bricks or crushed stone into the bottom of the hole (you can also pour expanded clay, but it’s more expensive...). Fill the lower part of the hole, approximately to the middle, with a mixture of humus (rotted manure or compost), peat, part of the high soil and mineral fertilizers. For one pit it is recommended to add 150-200g of superphosphate, 150-200g of potassium sulfate, and on loams it is customary to add slaked lime in an amount of 150-200g. I myself don’t particularly bother with the grams and names of fertilizers; I usually use the fertilizers that are currently on hand (the main thing is that they are not nitrogen, but phosphorus-potassium fertilizers; you can also use complex flower fertilizers). A handful of this, a handful of that, a bucket of rotted manure, a bucket of high-moor soil, a bucket of sand (my mother has clay!), a bucket of rotted peat, mixed in a wheelbarrow - and into the hole. Be sure to tamp it down lightly. This layer is a nutrient reserve for the future, when the bush grows and the roots reach the depths.

You prepare the soil for the upper part of the hole in approximately the same way as for the lower one, but you need to add three or four times less mineral fertilizers (sometimes they advise not to add mineral fertilizers to the top layer at all, but I add it anyway). Fill the hole to the top, maybe with a small mound; as the soil shrinks, the mound will be level with the main surface of the flowerbed. I make sure to stick a strong peg-mark into the center of the hole (we use pegs to mark all future planting sites along the trench). It doesn’t matter when you plant a peony - in spring or autumn - it can be difficult to remember where exactly the center of the hole is, and if there is a peg sticking out of the ground, you can’t go wrong.

If the summer is dry, then it is advisable to water the prepared planting holes occasionally to compact the soil.

Here you go, the holes are ready, they have stood, it’s time to plant peonies. Peony roots rarely come in a convenient, even shape. Basically these are uncomfortable and splayed out crooks. I am often asked the question: “How to position this brace?” In principle, it does not matter how the roots lie in the ground, it is important where the buds appear. Since the buds should be at a depth of 3-5 cm from the surface when planting, we twist the root in our hands and look for the most convenient location for it. If we cannot find a root location in which all the buds will be in the desired plane, we focus on the top one.

It is also necessary that the root lies in the center of the hole exactly where the buds are, and long asymmetrical parts of the root can be shifted to the edge. Note that it is better to place the root horizontally rather than stick it vertically (even if the root looks like a long vertical carrot with buds at one end). Dig a planting hole in the center of the hole according to the size of the root, plant it, filling it with freshly dug soil (no need to add anything, all the food is already in the hole). There is no need to water the planted peony roots unless the weather is very dry. Before planting, it is advisable to treat the roots with any antifungal drug (Maxim, Previkur...), as well as with any root compound.

When planting peonies in spring it often happens that Before planting in the ground, the root has already begun to sprout and has fairly long young shoots. How to plant it then? In the same way, into the cold earth, despite the possible last snowfalls and frosts. But, firstly, do not forget that the buds should be 3-5 cm from the surface (in the case of an already sprouted root, we set aside 3-5 cm from the base of the sprout, the rest of the sprout should look out to the surface). Secondly, we build a shelter over the sprouts sticking out of the ground. The best option is to cover the sprouts with a five-liter plastic bottle with the bottom cut off and without a cork, and lightly press it into the ground. We cover this bottle with white agrospan, the ends of which are pressed to the ground with stones or something similar. Under such shelter, young shoots will feel quite comfortable.

Here you go, We planted peonies, but how to care for them?? In my opinion, peonies do not require any very specific care. We care for peonies in much the same way as all other plants, but there are small deviations:

Feeding. Properly planted peonies practically do not need nitrogen fertilizers (older bushes can be fed with diluted mullein in the spring over time, but in very small quantities and only in May), but peonies must be supplied with mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers both in spring and autumn. Of course, it is more correct to dilute mineral fertilizers in water or embed them dry in the top root layer, but since I have no time to measure grams per bucket, dilute, etc., I do this - in the spring I scatter them around the bushes complex fertilizer marked “spring”, about a matchbox per bush, in the fall - “autumn”, during the summer, if possible, I feed everything with wood ash, also scattering it.

Young bushes (planted from the current or last year) must be periodically treated with Epin-Extra or Zircon (spraying on the foliage according to the instructions), these drugs help faster rooting, increase the resistance of young fragile plants to various diseases, viruses and adverse weather conditions. Since I haven’t decided for myself which of these drugs is still more effective, I use them both, alternating treatments.

Watering. Peonies are not loved all the time wet soil, therefore, in the Moscow region they often have enough natural rains without additional watering. But, if the summer is still very dry, then the peonies will need watering. Peonies are watered rarely, but accurately - no more than once a week, but a lot. I usually do this - I just put the hose on the flowerbed with peonies (for a couple of hours once every two weeks), move it along it periodically, the water should not rush out, eroding the soil, but should flow slowly and be absorbed without forming standing puddles. Naturally, such watering is only possible on very loose soil. If the soil is heavy, then it is better to pour 2-3 buckets directly onto each bush.

Diseases. I am not very good at peony diseases (as well as plant diseases in general), I have not noticed any terrible diseases in my garden that lead to the complete death of the plant, to the spread of some diseases from a specific place throughout the garden (according to different types plants, for plants of the same species). Yes, plants often get sick after transplantation (especially if greenhouse plants are transplanted into open ground), they also do not always feel good after dividing the bushes, many react poorly to sudden changes in temperature (very cold and rainy weather comes after prolonged heat, watering ice water during the heat). Usually, after the plant is established in a new place, the immune system is strengthened and the plant begins to grow and develop normally.

I won’t write about how to treat specific diseases (there is a lot about this on the Internet), because I simply don’t know how to treat them. I believe that if the pre-planting treatment of the seedling and soil is carried out correctly, the strengthening of the immune system and the rapid rooting of the young plant are stimulated, then the diseases will recede, they do not affect strong plants.

There are exceptions, of course, they are initially weak, diseased varieties, which no matter how much you treat, they will still get sick (apparently this is genetically embedded in them, they do not know how to resist diseases). Such plants can sit (just sit, not grow) in the garden for years, get sick, but not die. Many people don’t want to bother; they quickly remove underdeveloped plants from the site and forget about them. But there are also many gardeners who are ready to constantly treat some weak, but very beloved variety, and often they manage to get good results - after all, plants also feel love and care.

You can eliminate (reduce) the spread of diseases in peonies in simple ways:

  • - do not plant peonies too often, thickening of plantings contributes to the spread of viruses
  • - follow the watering regime, under no circumstances water peonies with ice-cold well water in hot weather
  • - if the place where peonies are planted is low, groundwater is close, provide the bushes with very good drainage or even refuse to plant peonies in an area of ​​the garden that is unfavorable for them.

A little about peony propagation

The most common method of propagating peonies is dividing bushes. Peonies are divided closer to autumn; in the Moscow region, the time for dividing peonies occurs at the end of August - beginning of September. Adult bushes that are at least 5 years old must be divided. First, all shoots are cut off at a height of about 10 cm from the ground, then the entire bush is dug up, the roots are washed from adhering earth using a hose (pressure) and left in the shade under a canopy for 1-2 days. Peony roots are very juicy and fragile; this time is needed so that they wilt slightly and do not break too much when dividing. Then, using a sharp knife and wooden pegs, we try to divide the bush into parts. We trim with a knife, swing with wooden pegs and separate the cut parts from the main bush (the roots of peonies are usually very tangled, so dividing peonies is a downright creative process...). A proper division should have at least 2 buds, as well as thick and thin roots. We carefully cut off the broken places (level them) with a sharp knife and treat them with crushed charcoal(can be used for processing strong solution potassium permanganate or pharmaceutical greens)

If it’s a pity to dig up and chop up an entire bush, but you still really want to propagate the variety, you can grow new seedlings from cuttings with buds. This method is long, but true, and also does not deprive the mother bush of its decorative properties.

The timing of harvesting cuttings coincides with the timing of dividing the whole bush - i.e. very end of summer - early autumn. We find on the bush the shoot that is most distant from the center of the bush (if the bush is large, then several can be done, from different sides). Very carefully we rake out the soil around the shoot and dig down to the buds and the top of the roots. If the soil is very loose, then this is easy to do; if it is dense, you will have to sweat and be persistent, since it is very undesirable to damage the roots, so sometimes you have to rake out the soil almost a teaspoon at a time to accurately determine the location of the root.

Using a sharp knife, we separate the shoot with the bud from the bush, while grabbing part of the root (as much as possible). Sometimes it is possible to separate even a fairly decent section, and sometimes a shoot is obtained with virtually no thick root (it is very desirable that the heel of the thick root is still present on the cutting). On the main bush, be sure to treat the cutting area with crushed charcoal and return the excavated soil to its rightful place. With such minor intervention, the bush will not lose its decorative appearance, and you will acquire viable planting material.

Let's prepare the cuttings for planting - be sure to treat the cuts with crushed charcoal and powder the roots or just bottom part cuttings with dry root. The bed for growing such cuttings should be very loose, well-drained, but not too nutritious (that is, there should be a lot of sand in it), you will add nutrition later with watering.

We plant the cuttings in the prepared bed; the bud should be located approximately 3 cm below the surface of the bed. Until spring we don’t do anything with the garden bed - we don’t fertilize, we don’t water... In the spring shoots will appear - the smaller the piece, the weaker the shoot will be, but the main thing is that it exists. Now we need to build up a good root system for it.

In the first year, we actively feed the cuttings with root-forming stimulants. As always, I like to alternate Epin with Zircon; fertilizing is best done by spraying on the leaves in the evening about once a week throughout the season. In the fall we add complex mineral fertilizers to the soil, and next spring We start fertilizing with organic matter (diluted mullein, nettle infusion) or diluted mineral fertilizers with a large percentage nitrogen. It is advisable to carry out three waterings with a difference of 10-14 days during May and early June. In the summer we again stimulate root formation, in the fall we again use mineral complexes...

So we grow cuttings for at least another season, or better yet two seasons, that is, from the time of planting the cutting to obtaining a young, good seedling, in most cases it takes 3 full years (sometimes 2 years, if the root was already very good to begin with).

There is also a way to propagate peonies by cutting green stem cuttings, but I have not tried it, so I will not describe it.

And finally, a few words about what is better to plant next to peonies.

Peonies bloom at their peak at the very beginning of summer. After flowering, the bush looks quite decorative due to the carved foliage, but you want bright colors all summer long! If, for example, a peony bush is located in a multi-faceted flower bed, then big problems does not arise - one has faded, the other is blooming. But the flower beds, consisting only of peonies, are simply green for most of the summer. I recommend diluting such flowerbeds with tall perennials that are not prone to strong growth and bloom in the second half of summer. I tried a lot, but, in my opinion, lilies and phlox perform this role best.

Benefits of using lilies:

  • - the conditions for growing lilies and peonies are very similar: they do not require frequent watering and nitrogen fertilizing, they are afraid of damping off....
  • - can be easily selected high grades lilies with different flowering periods, so the flowerbed will always be blooming

Phlox bloom long and luxuriantly; choosing tall varieties with different flowering periods will not be difficult. Although the agricultural technology of phlox differs from the agricultural technology of peonies, their proximity is still quite possible. Since phloxes are quite moisture-loving, you will have to water the flowerbed more often, but this will not affect the peonies, since the phloxes will very quickly “pump out” the water from the flowerbed. Phloxes need a little more nitrogen fertilizing in the spring than peonies; hilling is necessary in the fall, but if you feed and hill up pointwise, this will also not affect the peonies.

Peonies - great decoration any garden. Many gardeners strive to plant these beautiful flowers on their site. According to all the rules, peonies are supposed to be planted in the fall, but it happens that you have to plant in spring time. If planting is done correctly, the flowers will take root just as well.

Planting peonies in open ground in spring

When are peonies planted in spring? Typically, spring planting is forced and is carried out if:

  • flower rhizomes were acquired in winter (they simply may not survive until autumn);
  • the bush is very overgrown and it is impossible to detect it in the fall;
  • the flower was planted poorly and is sick (you shouldn’t leave it to “suffer” all summer).

Dates for spring planting of peonies

Spring planting of peonies is considered dangerous due to the onset of active bud growth, during which the development of roots lags behind the ground part. Due to unfavorable conditions, plants become sick and die. Therefore, planting must be completed before warm weather sets in, so that the bush has time to take root a little. This rule is the same for both tree and herbaceous peonies.

For central Russia, the second half of April and early May is considered a suitable time for spring planting.. IN southern regions The planting dates are shifted to mid-February, and in the northern regions - to the end of May.

If the weather is completely unfavorable for planting peonies in open ground (for example, rhizomes were purchased in December - January), they can be planted in flower pots. Before germination begins, the plantings are kept at a temperature of +5...+20 o C, and after germination they are grown as indoor flowers. Such bushes are planted in a flowerbed with a lump of earth when the weather is warm.

Seedlings purchased in advance can be grown in pots until warm

How to choose a location and prepare the soil for planting

When choosing a location, you need to remember that peonies are light-loving and do not tolerate flooding. Therefore, it is advisable to place flower beds on a hill, at some distance from buildings, fences and trees. The landing site must be protected from drafts.

The soil should be nutritious, moderately acidic. For high acidity, it is recommended to use lime, ash and dolomite.

A hole is prepared in the selected area. It should be cone-shaped and have a depth of 60–80 cm and a diameter of 40–60 cm (the dimensions of the hole are adjusted depending on the size of the peony bush). When planting several peonies in a row, adjacent holes are located no closer than 80 cm from each other.

For drainage, the bottom of the pit is lined with a layer of expanded clay or broken brick. Then a nutrient layer of compost with peat (1:1), enriched with superphosphate, iron sulfate and ash, is laid. If you do not want to mix all these components, you can use a ready-made preparation, for example, GUMI Spring. The nutrient mixture should fill the hole to 2/3 of the depth. Soil is poured on top so that about 15 cm remains to the edge of the hole.

1 - drainage from gravel or expanded clay, 2 - nutrient layer; 3 - layer of soil in which planting is carried out; 4 - level of rhizome destruction

How to prepare a hole and peony rhizomes for spring planting - video

Spring planting procedure

In general, the rules for spring planting do not differ from autumn planting. To successfully plant peonies in the spring, you need to remember the following simple rules:

  • choose high-quality planting material (check that there is no rot, cracks, or darkening of the rhizomes), it is better to remove very old parts of the root;
  • when transplanting bushes with young roots that have begun to grow, the roots should not be allowed to come into contact with air for more than 4 minutes;
  • correctly calculate the planting depth (peonies planted too deeply do not bloom, and shallowly planted ones freeze in winter). It is recommended to deepen the buds by 3–5 cm in heavy soils and 5–7 cm in light soils.

Planting of prepared rhizomes is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. The peony is placed in the hole so that the roots are directed straight down.
  2. Cover the root system with soil, following the recommendations for deepening;
  3. Very carefully compact the soil around the plant with your hands (if you compact it with your foot, you will damage the buds!).
  4. Water the bush with 6–7 liters of water, wait until the soil subsides and add some soil.

To properly bury peonies, you can use a stick to mark the soil level.

You should not plant divisions with too many buds - there should be 3–5 of them.

Planting a peony in spring - video

I don’t plant peonies very often, but I try to listen to the advice of my flower growers. According to their recommendations, it turns out that peonies can germinate even from small pieces of root. That's why I stopped throwing away the roots that accidentally broke off. I dig them into nutritious soil and try to monitor the moisture. You have to wait a long time - the buds usually appear only the next year, and sometimes even after 2 years. But it’s always nice when a seemingly useless piece of root grows beautiful flower. I have already grown 6-7 of these.

How to care for peonies planted in spring

In order for peonies planted in spring not to lag behind in development, they need to be provided good care. If watering, fertilizing and weeding are done in a timely manner, peonies usually take root well even after spring planting.

Most of all, peonies need good watering. It is advisable to use rain water. A newly planted bush may not immediately absorb irrigation water. You can try shading it with a net.

After watering, the soil is mulched with mowed grass. It is also important to remove weeds around the peony.

Peony flowering depends on the quality of watering the summer before last. Therefore, if there is insufficient flowering, remember whether it received enough moisture in previous years.

It is not necessary to feed the peony in the first 2–3 years after planting - the fertilizers added during planting are enough for it. In subsequent years it is required regular feeding. In April - May, 50–55 g of urea is added to each bush to improve the growth of green mass. During the budding period (end of May), phosphorus and potassium are required, as well as organic matter in the form of mullein solution.

From the second year after planting it is necessary to carry out foliar feeding. From the beginning of the appearance of green shoots, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of urea, and then, at intervals of 2 weeks, with solutions of microelements (1–2 tablets per bucket of water).

To stimulate the development of the root system, it is recommended to use Heterauxin.

In the first two years after planting, you should not overload the bush with flowers, so the weakest buds are cut off.

There are a lot of beautiful flowers, but among them I especially want to highlight peonies. Genuine beauty, brightness, richness of colors, elegant shape, pleasant aroma... All these qualities characterize this plant. If you are in doubt whether you should plant it on your plot of a private house or in your country house, then do not hesitate! You will definitely fall in love with this beautiful flower when it graces your garden with lush color. The most popular way to propagate a flower is by dividing the bush; you can get divisions yourself if you grow the plant in your garden or buy it. This article will tell you how and when to plant a peony seedling in the spring.

Dates for planting peonies in spring

The optimal time for planting a peony seedling in the spring - the moment the roots grow, usually occurs in April and May, so it is advisable to carry out the procedure at this time.

How to choose peony seedlings

When choosing peonies for planting, it is important to pay enough attention to inspecting the root system. The number of renewal buds should vary from 2 to 3. It may be possible to root flowers that have one or two buds, but their development will be slow. Adventitious roots will be needed 5 centimeters long and in quantity of at least two pieces. The bulbs must be healthy and strong, without wounds or signs of disease. The latter include mold, thickening, growths and formations.

You should not take dried seedlings with already blackened buds - naturally, they will not survive any planting, and even growth stimulants will not help them. It is also not recommended to take exotic blue or black peonies - such species do not exist either in nature or from breeders, and therefore will turn out to be a fake. Finally, it makes sense to avoid too low prices- usually there is a marriage hidden behind them. Whether the peony will be able to take root in a new place in the spring can be determined by the state of the root system.

If the earthen lump is covered with white roots, then everything is in order.

The following information should be checked on the packaging: name of the variety, short description crops, quantity of planting material, instructions and quality control mark. After checking the packaging, it is necessary to evaluate the condition of the piece. Usually this is not particularly difficult, since peonies are sold in transparent bags. You should not buy peonies if the cutting seems too dry or wet to the touch, the packaging smells unpleasant, or there is a suspicion of infection with cancer or root nematode.

The optimal place and soil for planting peonies in spring

When a peony grows in a brightly lit place, its flowers are large and magnificent. rich color. A little natural shading at noon is not harmful. But strong is abnormal and uncomfortable for him. It cannot go away without problems and sometimes leads to a complete lack of budding, sometimes even to the death of the plant.

But in relation to soils, peony is quite unpretentious, although it does not like acidic soils. By the way! It should be noted that the most remarkable decorative effect is achieved when the peony grows on cultivated soil or loam (soil with a high clay content and a significant amount of sand), which is capable of receiving and retaining water well. If you are planning to plant a peony near groundwater, then you should not allow its level at the planting site to cross the mark of 0.5-0.7 m from the surface. This is fraught with rotting of the roots of the plant, and consequently, the death of the bush. In such cases, it is necessary to raise the flower beds higher by adding soil.

How to plant peonies in spring

If spring is already in full swing, it’s the end of April or the first half of May, and you bought peonies, try planting them as in the fall, but deeper.

When planting in spring, about 20% of healthy seedlings do not take root. In capricious varieties this percentage is even higher.

  • To begin, dig a planting hole measuring 60x60 cm (it is advisable to do this in advance so that the earth has time to settle).
  • Place 10-15 cm of drainage at the bottom of the hole, which can be expanded clay, broken brick, coarse sand, Sand and gravel etc.
  • Fill the hole with half of the dug fertile soil, 1-2 buckets of compost or humus, 200 g of superphosphate and 300-400 g of ash, mix.
  • Place a mound of fertile soil in the center of the hole and place a division, distributing the roots.
  • Fill the peony seedling so that at least 7 cm remains to the surface, carefully compact the soil with your hands.
  • Fill the hole with a bucket of cool water, add more soil if necessary and mulch with peat.
  • At first, water the peonies so often that the soil in the hole does not dry out.

Caring for peonies in spring

At first, peonies need to be watered every day so that they take root faster. Otherwise, care is the same as for autumn planting. And although it is believed that “spring” peonies may be slightly behind in growth compared to those planted in September, with timely watering, fertilizing and weeding, you can grow magnificent and healthy bushes.

Over the summer and autumn, the peony should take root and its roots should develop well. If the roots develop poorly, the apical buds will freeze in winter. However, the plant will recover very quickly and begin to grow.

Peony diseases

Most often, peonies are affected by fungal and viral diseases. Among the ailments caused by fungus, the most widespread are gray rot, rust and different kinds spots (Figure 1).

Viral infections are represented by tobacco rattle, strawberry ringspot, raspberry ringspot, cucumber mosaic and alfalfa mosaic.

Note: As a rule, flowers are not affected by any one virus. Most often, a mixed viral infection is observed, which complicates treatment.

The main reason for the development of fungi is high humidity air. Thus, crops are affected by gray mold in cold rainy weather in spring and summer. But humid, warm weather promotes the development of rust. Factors that increase the risk of fungal diseases are also excess nitrogen in the soil and significant shading of plantings.

Viral diseases affect crops regardless of weather conditions. They can be transmitted from other vegetable and fruit crops, such as tobacco, cucumber, raspberries through common garden tools, contact through the soil and spread by insects.

Any ailments garden crops can be determined from the photo, and, accordingly, their treatment can begin depending on the type of pathology and its characteristics.

The peony will bloom in 2-5 years. It all depends on the quality of the seedling, correct landing and plant varieties. Terry varieties take a long time to form a bush, and they have to wait a long time for flowering. The Mountain and Roca tree peonies bloom the fastest. They are unpretentious and suitable for beginner gardeners.

Peonies are considered one of the most unpretentious beautifully flowering perennials, which are quite popular with most gardeners. For those who decide to decorate their personal plot, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the peculiarities of planting peonies in open ground in the fall, as well as learning how to choose a good seedling and what care to provide to the planted plants.

When is the best time to plant peonies in the ground?

Peonies that are planted in the fall send out shoots at the end of March and soon begin to bloom

Peonies can be planted in both spring and autumn, but most experts recommend doing this procedure at the end of the season. If you plant these perennials in the spring, they will take longer to develop and bloom sparingly. In addition, such bushes are much more susceptible to various diseases, and their overgrown stems easily break. Benefits autumn planting At the same time, not only are there lush flowering and strong immunity, but also the fact that the young growth manages to take root well over the winter and is actively growing already in March.

Dates for planting peonies in autumn

These perennials can be planted in the ground from September to early November. But it should be borne in mind that in any case, at least 30–35 days must remain before the onset of severe frosts so that the plants have time to take root in a new place. Approximate planting dates depending on the region:

  • Leningrad region - early September;
  • Moscow and Moscow region - from September 1 to 20;
  • Central Russia - September 1–30;
  • Siberia - early September;
  • Ural - September 1–15;
  • South - from September to November (if the autumn is warm, then there is no need to rush with planting).

Experienced gardeners recommend keeping a weather observation journal, in which you need to note the dates of the first frost and the air temperature in different days. Analysis of records in the future will help determine the planting date.

When planting peonies, you can also rely on the gardener’s lunar calendar. Favorable days for the procedure in 2019:

  • October - 25, 26, 27, 28, 29;
  • November - 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

Choosing a location on the site

It is recommended to plant peonies on sunny side plot, since without sufficient lighting these plants most often do not bloom in due time. If buds appear on bushes planted in the shade, they are extremely rare, and the flowers are small. For the same reason, it is not recommended to place plants next to tall bushes, trees.

It is recommended to plant tree peonies in places protected from drafts, for example, near a fence. It is not advisable to place them near buildings, since the bushes will receive an excessive amount of heat from the heating walls.

Peonies should not be planted in low-lying areas where moisture can stagnate, as well as in places with groundwater, since peonies cannot tolerate waterlogging. It is advisable to plant plants in slightly acidic soil or soil with neutral acidity. The best predecessors for peonies are legumes, and the worst are large perennials, trees and shrubs that deplete the soil.

Preparation of soil and planting material

Before planting peonies, it is worth preparing the soil and planting holes. It is recommended to prepare them a month before the expected planting date, so that the soil has time to be properly compacted. Optimal sizes for herbaceous specimens - 70 cm deep and 60 cm wide. For tree-like species, pits should be prepared 10 cm wider than for classic peonies. At the bottom you will need to lay a layer of drainage (expanded clay, pebbles) and pour a small amount of sand. On top you need to fill the soil mixture prepared from the following components:

  • 8 kg of humus;
  • 100 g of wood ash and monosuperphosphate;
  • 70 g potassium sulfate.

Additionally, 100 g of bone meal can be added to the soil mixture.

Planting material should be purchased at flower shops. It is advisable to purchase two- or three-year-old seedlings with several growth points. The rhizomes of the selected specimens should be light brown. It is not recommended to purchase dried seedlings and peonies with black dried growth points, since they are not viable. Purchased planting material must be prepared before planting in open ground. The gardener is recommended to perform the following manipulations:

  1. Inspect the roots, rinse them in warm running water and dry it properly.
  2. Cut off small and rotting roots.
  3. Keep the seedlings in a manganese solution for 20 minutes. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can use the specialized disinfectant Maxim.
  4. Treat the cut areas with crushed coal or ash.
  5. Dry the seedlings for 24 hours in a dark place.

Prepared herbaceous peony seedlings should be placed in planting holes at a distance of 100–150 cm from each other. It should be taken into account that tree species are much larger, so the intervals between plantings should be 130–180 cm.

Step-by-step instructions and important nuances

Step-by-step instructions for autumn planting herbaceous peony seedlings in open ground:

  1. Place the seedling in the prepared hole.
  2. Make sure that the renewal buds are located at a depth of 3–5 cm. It should be borne in mind that insufficient or excessive depth is fraught with scanty or completely absent flowering.
  3. Spread the peony roots, being careful not to press them.
  4. Fill the hole with the prepared soil mixture.
  5. Compact the soil with your hands and, if necessary, sprinkle soil on top.
  6. Water the seedling.

Scheme for planting herbaceous peony in open ground

Planting instructions apply to all types of peonies, but some considerations should be taken into account. important nuances. For example, ITO hybrids must be planted in such a way that the grafting site is buried 10 cm. The buds of tree peonies should be located at ground level or 3–5 cm below it, and at the same time as planting, a strong stake should be driven in for support .

Video: features of autumn planting peonies

Further care

After planting, seedlings should be provided with proper care, which includes a number of the following procedures:

  1. Watering. It is recommended to water the plants 2 times before the end of the season if the autumn was rainy. The procedure should be carried out after sunset or at dawn to avoid burns on unrooted seedlings.
  2. Loosening the earth. This procedure should be carried out immediately after watering the plants.
  3. Mulching. Before the onset of severe frosts, the bushes should be mulched with loose peat or sawdust.

There is no need to feed the plants, since the fertilizers applied during planting will be enough for the peonies for the next 3 years.

You can achieve lush flowering as early as next year if you take a responsible approach to choosing a seedling and preparing it for planting, and also timely plant the peony in open ground.