Covering the walls of the bathhouse from the inside. What is the best way to line the inside of a bathhouse? What is the best way to line a bathhouse from the inside?

Wood is a material that has long been used for cladding baths and saunas. That's where the tree is the best way reveals its properties - the ability to create a microclimate and retain heat perfectly.

In truth, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in humid and hot environments. Accordingly, it is better to line the inside of the bathhouse with wooden clapboard. Below is the technology for step-by-step cladding of a bathhouse with clapboard inside.

Finishing a bathhouse or sauna with clapboard has its own characteristics that must be taken into account at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing lining for cladding a bath, you need to consider:

• high temperature;
• temperature fluctuations (drops);
• humidity level;
• budget.

Which lining to choose for a bathhouse

The selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of the lumber:

1. Board type

When finishing a pair of wooden linings, it is better to give preference to Euro linings.

• Firstly, because she has big sizes tongue-and-groove system (ridge length reaches 8 mm).

• Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on the back of the lamellas, which promotes ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamellas.

• Thirdly, because the eurolining is already pre-treated with wood preservatives that can be used in a sauna.

2. Type of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) grade of wood is suitable, in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even living knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Wood species

To understand which sauna lining is best, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all the breeds available on the market, but will focus on those that are recommended by professionals.

The lining of the bathhouse can be made of deciduous and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bathhouse or sauna is hardwood lining. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Linden lining for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are its ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, the undoubted argument in favor of linden lining will be the strength of the species, resistance to drying out, as well as the beautiful color and structure of the wood. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft, and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, aspen lining only becomes stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care behind the clapboard in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it begins to darken. And popular belief says that aspen draws negative energy from a person.

Alder paneling for a bathhouse

In third place was the alder paneling. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. The wood of this species is hygroscopic and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. However, the high cost prevents its widespread adoption.

Note. Lining made from linden, aspen, and alder is usually sold in short pieces. Commercial length is up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the finishing of the bathhouse and making material calculations.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult material to process is oak lining for baths. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in a sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

The situation is similar with ash paneling - very expensive and rare lumber for lining a bathhouse.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs to be protected.

Coniferous species are rarely used in steam rooms. Because the resin emitted by softwood lining (pine, spruce) makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and waiting rooms. This is facilitated by such indicators as moisture resistance and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not require additional processing (except for de-resining). Often pleasant pine aroma also becomes an argument in favor of pine needle lining.

Do-it-yourself lining of the bathhouse with clapboard inside

Ways to fasten the lining

The first step is to choose a method for attaching the lining. There is no definite answer on how to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse, horizontally or vertically (lengthwise or across). Each master defends his point of view. But by summarizing their statements and user reviews, we can draw conclusions regarding the methods of laying the lining.

Laying lining along has become more widespread due to its comparative simplicity, convenience and high speed work, and due to this, lower installation costs. Moisture (condensation) easily flows down vertically located lamellas. But, by the way, it also easily rises up through the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

Vertical fastening of the lining allows more heat to be accumulated inside the steam room, again, because the horizontal fastening of the sheathing beam interferes with the free movement of air. Experts note that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam mode.

Laying the clapboard crosswise has advantages due to the fact that the board is fastened with the tenon facing upward, which means that water ingress is just as unlikely as with a vertical one. When the lining is mounted horizontally, a vertical frame (lathing) is equipped, which promotes natural air circulation between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor horizontal laying clapboards in the bathhouse (steam room) - ease of replacing the boards below. The fact is that the floor in the bathhouse is not just a damp place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to faster rotting than the upper ones. Replacing several bottom boards is easier than cutting off the bottom of all the vertical ones. In addition, drying out from constant temperature changes is more noticeable on a vertical mount. The horizontal method of attaching the lining is best chosen by those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the above, everyone can decide for themselves how to attach the lining in the bathhouse - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard involves installing lathing. This is due to the fact that the presence of lathing makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensation drains, and the likelihood of the lining rotting and the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The lathing for the bathhouse lining is made only from timber, which is coated with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

Lathing in the bathhouse makes it possible to organize electrical wiring in the steam room. For example, under lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are laid in a metal corrugation.

The internal insulation of a bathhouse consists of several layers. The insulation in such a damp room requires special fastening.

First, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or secured with sheathing slats.

Cotton wool is placed between the beams of the sheathing. By the way, it was cut with an overlap of 10 mm. The cotton wool will settle tightly between the frame beams and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is placed on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is stapled to the sheathing beams.

The film is laid overlapping and must be glued with aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats, the so-called counter slats, are stuffed. For counter-railing, boards up to 20 mm thick are used. The purpose of the counter-rail is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

An important condition for proper functioning is ventilation in the bathhouse.

Therefore, when installing the sheathing and laying insulation, do not forget to mark the location for the ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bathhouse you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the second at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Place ventilation holes needed in accessible places to be able to regulate the air flow.

Only non-flammable thermal insulation material is used in the sauna. That is why the use of foam plastic is excluded. It is better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in a steam room

Fastening the lining in the bathhouse is done exclusively using a hidden method. Experts explain this by three factors:

• Firstly, the hardware, twisted through, heats up and there is a risk of getting unpleasant sensations when touching the fastening point.

• Secondly, rough hardware can rust and ruin the surface of the lining.

• Thirdly, such fastening looks somewhat primitive and affects the appearance of the room.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. Regarding self-tapping screws, it should be additionally noted that the self-tapping screw can be screwed onto the front side of the board, but it must be covered with a wooden plug.

This method is quite labor-intensive, so users are advised to fasten the wooden paneling with their own hands using nails and clamps.

How to cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with clapboard

The decoration of the steam room, as well as other rooms of the bathhouse, begins from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall slats must rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the entrance side and is carried out only with nails or a clamp. And the point here is not even the visual effect, but the fact that the finishing nail is not able to withstand the weight of the lining ceiling.

The boards that are nailed last are difficult to “plant” on the clamp or drive a nail into the groove. In this case, use a finishing (hidden) nail that does not have a head. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished off with a hammer. And the place where the nail is installed is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, splinters.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the wall of the bathhouse. This is due to the fact that the temperature under the ceiling is higher and the lamellas “play” more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation along the wall.

How to cover walls in a bathhouse with clapboard

Decorating the walls with clapboard starts from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented in the same way as installing clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be taken into account that water can rise up the wood to a height of up to half a meter when mounted vertically and half as low when mounted horizontally. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

It is impossible to join the slats of wooden lining until they stop, as is done in the house, in the sauna. Wood swells and shrinks due to humidity and temperature, so there must be a compensation gap for the “movement” of the wood. The consequences of improper fastening (deformation, discrepancy) are shown in the photo.

How to make a gap between the lining?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board moves relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Installing lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you maintain the joining of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards are adjacent to the ceiling.

Fastening skirting boards for lining and decorative elements

Skirting boards, corners, and other accessories for finishing the sauna cannot be “set” on glue. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by sanding the installation site.

How to cover a doorway with clapboard

Doorways are given special attention. The slopes in them are finished using lining, cut to the required length. And the openings themselves are framed with platbands.

How to sheathe slopes on windows with clapboard

They are rarely installed directly into paired windows; more often they are installed in a dressing room or washing room. In any case, it won’t hurt to know how to make slopes from clapboard.

In order to simplify the installation of the lining, professionals advise installing the slope in window opening using a starting strip to a plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the plank at one end, and attached to the sheathing beam with the other. This framing method is ideal in its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install metal-plastic windows. But, it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, cover it with clapboard and then decorate the junction of the clapboard with the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in their bathhouse.

If the wall thickness is small and the slope is not wide, then you can line it with a wooden lining for lining.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Finishing the washing room in the bathhouse with clapboard

Installation of lining in a washing room is carried out similarly to installation in a steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards when laid vertically must be at a distance of at least 30 mm. from the floor.

Users note that plastic panels and PVC lining have proven themselves well in the interior decoration of washrooms. Wood decor allows you to create desired design and at the same time ensure long-term operation of the finish. Ceramic tiles and tiles also look great in the sink.

How to cover a bathhouse dressing room with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your things in it and take a break after a steam bath. In more modern versions The bathhouse dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and equipment are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, the installation of the lining is no different.

Due to flammability, the lining is not installed near the furnace firebox. It is better to decorate the fireplace with brick, stone, in extreme cases, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

It is worth noting that the chimney pipe is also not allowed to join the lining on the ceiling. Therefore, a screen made of of stainless steel. Behind the screen, the pipe should be wrapped with basalt wool.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the heater (the place where the traditional Russian bath stones are stacked) is not only possible, but also necessary. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, the wooden finish of the heater will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in individual rooms of the bathhouse, you know how to attach the lining in the bathhouse correctly. This means there are no obstacles to finishing the bathhouse with wooden clapboards yourself.

Finishing– the final stage of construction. It is incorrect to include insulation work in it. When it comes to tiling floors, walls, ceilings, installing doors and windows, painting surfaces, this can be called finishing. We need to somehow define the terms if we want mutual understanding.

This article will focus mainly on interior decoration steam rooms, but the finishing will also be partially affected washing If the site has thematic articles that cover a particular issue on the subject, read it, you’ll probably find it there helpful information, and for your convenience we have provided links.

Steam room design

If we're talking about O final options finishing of the steam room in the bath, then it would be worthwhile to somehow classify them and talk about them with different points vision. That is, we can talk separately about floors, walls, ceilings, doors and windows, or we can talk about materials. This is what we will try to cover below.

Floor

In a paired room, the floor comes in three versions:

• tree;
• tile;
• concrete.

The latter option is not intended at all for walking on it with bare feet, but people also walk on this floor in rubber slippers or on ladders. We mention it here only for the sake of completeness. Although, if you paint it with something waterproof... In general, be that as it may, there are three working options for installing floors in the steam room. Wooden floor can be torrential or dry, You can read about the features of both options.

We will not touch on how to make this or that floor, we are only interested in what it is and what it looks like in the end.

poured wood floor- These are boards fixed to joists without joining. The gap between adjacent boards is up to 1 cm.

Dry floor, on the contrary, is a very tightly joined boards, most often tongue and groove.

Both floors after completion installation work can be painted either acrylic varnish , or impregnation for sauna floors. This will make the floorboards water-repellent and the floor itself more durable.

Tile is also fully present in the steam room, because no one wants to change the floors every 5-7 years, as is the case with the pouring option, and a dry floor can also deteriorate - it’s still wood, and it’s not particularly friendly with water (except species such as larch).

IMPORTANT! The main argument against tile floors is that they can cause you to slip. But there are enough tiles on sale that have a rough surface that prevents slipping.

Concrete… If the screed is made of high-quality concrete, then water will not harm it for a very long time. But it will also look as if the finishing of the steam room in the bathhouse was left halfway. To give it some finality, we would advise painting it with paint for concrete pools - everything will somehow be prettier.

How to decorate the walls and ceiling

It's not in vain that we united walls and ceiling into the same category - they are usually made from the same material.

If regarding the floors there was still some variability in the choice of material for finishing them in the steam room, then for the walls and ceiling in a standard bath there is only one material - tree. And it is right. Firstly, tradition, secondly, useful, thirdly, pleasant and beautiful.

But in general, the design of a steam room in a bathhouse, if we talk about walls and ceilings, comes down to choice linings. True, some leave the walls made of timber or logs unsealed, but this is only if the timber or logs are thick enough or the winters are moderately frosty, which is why it is not cold in the steam room.

But There are a lot of types of lining so that those who do not want standard option, there was plenty to choose from.

ATTENTION! To begin with, let us clarify that imitation timber and blockhouse (imitation log house) are also types of lining. After all, this word essentially means just a profiled board, and it can have many different profiles.

euro and non-euro

First of all, it varies tongue-and-groove connection design. Based on the differences between them, such types of linings as standard (according to Soviet GOST), eurolining, and “American” are built.

Secondly, they may differ profile of the front side of the plank. The presence and absence of chamfers, the degree of rounding, various protrusions and depressions create all the variety of surfaces finished with these boards.

It is also worth taking into account the presence or absence of ventilation grooves on the back side of the lamella. They were not included in the Soviet standard, but they are needed, and the eurolining has them.

ADVICE! For those who want to creatively approach the interior decoration of a steam room in a bathhouse, we can recommend combining several different profiles, for example, smooth with or without a chamfer and some of the carved profiles.

You can read more about the types of lining and cladding methods in this.

Of course, there is also finishing around the stove in the steam room of the bathhouse, and it is made, in particular, from tiles - ceramic or natural stone. But we will talk about this in a separate chapter below.

Doors and windows

For doors and windows, the most important thing concerns not so much the design as the right choice wood.

After all plastic door you can’t put it in the steam room, unless glass, which are made for a sauna, of course (that is, with a healthy gap under the door needed for ventilation of the sauna). But if you file the box, you can put glass door and in the Russian bathhouse. And you won't have problems closing the doors.

But if the door is made of wood, then high humidity will affect it primarily change in wood volume, that is, it will change the dimensions of the doors. And they will periodically not fit into the opening.

To avoid such problems, you need to choose a tree that is least deformed by moisture. And it's very affordable - it's a common Linden. By the way, it is worth making not only doors, but also shelves from it, and some people will prefer linden lining. The properties of wood will be discussed below.

Finishing inside the steam room

Since buildings are made of different materials, owners are interested in whether there is any difference in how to decorate a steam room in a bathhouse, say, from brick or foam concrete. Basically, there are no differences even at the level of construction of the insulating pie, and the finishing does not depend on what the walls of your bathhouse are made of.

However, options do exist.

Interior decoration in a bathhouse made of timber or logs

timber or log- a material that in itself has excellent decorative qualities, so there is no point in hiding it under the skin, unless your area is in the Arctic cold, that is, if the thickness of the log or beam is enough to keep warm.

In this case, the owner's main concern will be insulation of joints between logs or beams, them sealing(which we’ll talk about separately). In addition to this, to the number finishing works may include protecting log walls from various misfortunes (fire, water, insects, fungi and bacteria) and identifying decorative properties wood - both are done using impregnation

BUT! In the steam room protective measures limited to antiseptic lower crowns and impregnation for walls in general, which will protect them from water.

A well-sanded log has a beautiful “moire” pattern, which can be made more visible with the help of varnish or impregnation. There is a site on our website that talks about paints and varnishes that are acceptable for processing steam rooms.

Finishing with clapboard in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, brick, frame

The finishing of a steam room in a bathhouse built from the materials listed in the title will in the vast majority of cases be reduced to cladding clapboard. This is the easiest way to make the interior “wooden”. In addition, the lining is convenient and available material, and the difference in profiles gives the owner the freedom to choose according to his tastes.

Baths not built from wood are accepted insulate. In this article we will not describe the thermal insulation pie - you can read about it in this one on our website. However, let's spoil it: methods of thermal insulation finishing of a steam room in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. are the same. And the lining is the final stage of this finishing.

The lining is attached to the counter-lattice. There are several ways to attach it inconspicuously. Previously, this was most often done with finishing nails through the groove, but this is hard work, especially when compared with in a modern way fastening to staples or nails using a pneumatic gun through clamps. As an option, you can attach it to self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! Clippers do not replace fastening with nails or staples, they only simplify it. A nice and convenient addition.

Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining using clamps:

Regarding the finishing of the steam room with clapboard, it is worth saying one more thing: there are two mounting options - vertical And horizontal. Accordingly, the counter-lattice should go in a perpendicular direction.

Since we are talking about a humid and hot room, it is worth noting that vertical fastening of the lining is not optimal. Each individual lamella with this arrangement is moistened unevenly, which leads to stress inside the wood. In the future it may crack.

In the same time horizontal fastening makes the lamellas moisturized more uniformly. The main thing is not to forget when fastening that the groove should be on top, and the tenon should enter it from below. Then water will not flow into the lock.

In addition to the above, the described types of lining installation also have this feature: vertical fastening visually makes the room appear higher and the horizontal one lower.

Options for washing and steam rooms: materials

Let's briefly look at the materials suitable for finishing bath sinks and steam rooms.

Wood

In the photo: finishing the steam room of a bathhouse with wood (lining)

For flooring, you can use more resistant species, for example, larch. Conifers should not be used because of the resin they contain, which flows out when the temperature rises. But on the floor the temperature is usually low, so there are no restrictions.

However, it is worth saying that linden trees And aspen low resistance to rotting and biocontamination (for example, fungi). Therefore, we still recommend additionally protecting surfaces made of this wood with impregnations and varnishes.

IN car wash there is no point in using wood unless it is design solution. In this case, it is worth recommending conifers– they are more resistant to water.

Stone

An option for decorating a steam room in a bathhouse is stone tiles . Of course, we are talking only about partial finishing, for example, near the stove (more on that below).

What types of stone are best suited for finishing walls in a steam room? You will be surprised, but there are practically no restrictions here th - the main thing is that it is not rock salt, for example. But pink Himalayan salt is often used as interior decoration. Of course, it will not dissolve as quickly as table salt in a pot of soup, but its composition is the same as salt in a salt shaker.

The wall behind the stove, of course, heats up, but the stones are quite capable of withstanding such temperatures without harming themselves. But the situation will change if you decide to cover the stove with the same stone. The temperatures there are somewhat different. And it’s worth focusing at least on those stones in which ready-made stoves are sold, for example, soapstone .

As an option, you can decorate part of the steam room not with smooth tiles, but with chopped pebbles or cobblestones, which are mounted on the solution with the convex side up. It turns out to be quite a nice decor. As you can see, even street cobblestones can come in handy.

In the photo: interior decoration of the steam room with stones around the stove

IN car wash You can use stone, but this is rarely done, because it is easier and cheaper to cover the walls and floor with finished ceramic tiles.

Tile

The tiles in the steam room are used either on the floor or on the wall behind the stove. As for the floor, rough tiles behave best here, for example, Metlakhskaya In general, it can be recommended for wet areas. But it is better not to consider all varieties of smooth glazed tiles as a covering for the floor of a steam room.

IN washing It is also better to use rough tiles on the floor, and for the walls... here, in general, you can see more clearly how sober visitors will wash in your washroom. If not particularly so, then give up smooth tiles there too, eliminating unnecessary opportunities for injury.

In the photo: finishing the shower room of the bathhouse with tiles

Sealant

Special mention should be made of such finishing material as sealant for a steam room in a bathhouse.

Sealants in a steam room can only be used in two cases: if it log sauna and needs to seal the joints between the logs, as well as seal the cracks in the logs themselves, and the second option is to seal the joints, for example, foam glass, if it is used as heat insulator.

In the first case, we can recommend special sealants for wood that have a certain elasticity, because wood tends to constantly change volume under the influence of moisture. In addition, it is worth asking the sellers which wood sealants can withstand steam room temperatures well (name the numbers at which you are used to steaming).

We came across a report from one bathhouse owner in which he praised the wood sealant Perma-Chink, which he used for seams and Check Mate for sealing cracks. However, we cannot say with certainty that this was not promotional material.

As for the sealant for the heat insulator, then you need to take silicone without impurities, for example Ottoseal S 73.

Finishing around the stove

The space around the stove needs special finishing for the reason that the proximity of the hot stove to the combustible material of the walls (the same lining) can lead to fire.

Fireproof board for finishing walls when installing a sauna stove

Therefore, thermal insulating material is usually placed on the wall, for example, mineralite or superizol(mounting on ceramic bushings is desirable). A stainless steel sheet can be attached to reflect heat.

Tiles near the stove

If the walls are not made of wood, you can protect them with heat resistant tiles Since tiles are used for lining stoves and fireplaces, you can find many varieties on sale, from which the seller will select the right one for you.

Of course, stove tiles are more than suitable for wall decoration, but they can be more expensive, so it’s worth measuring the heating temperature of an object located at the same distance that will separate your stove from the wall.

And one more thing - you need to take into account the fact that in the baths on personal plot In winter, if not used for a long time, the temperature can be below zero.

Some types of tiles are not intended for sudden changes in temperature when heating a bath - this issue should also be clarified with the seller. If you choose the wrong tile, it will crumble.

Photo

Finishing the steam room of the bath

Interior decoration steam room and washing room together

Finishing the steam room like a sauna inside

Antique finishing of baths and steam rooms

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The best options for lining the inside of a bathhouse. What material for the interior lining of a bathhouse will look beautiful and at the same time be inexpensive. Photos from various options natural interior lining of the bathhouse.

The most important stage in the construction of a bathhouse is the installation of the internal lining. It is worth paying special attention to the choice for interior design baths, since the service life and quality of finishing will depend on this. The finishing material also plays a role in maintaining the proper appearance of the interior coating.

When choosing a material, you should pay attention to the following qualities:

• steam resistance;
• water resistance;
• resistance to fire;
• environmental friendliness;

Internal lining of the bath: the best options

The combination of foil and basalt wool. Installation begins with the installation of a frame made of wooden beams(the best option here is wooden blocks 30 by 30 mm), then filled with cotton wool. The foil acts as insulation, as it has the necessary listed characteristics, and is placed in a layer on top of the basalt wool. The foil is secured using a pneumatic steller.

Pine lining is another option for high-quality interior decoration of a bathhouse or sauna. Linden and alder are also often used due to the fact that such wood does not release resin when heated. If you treat the material according to all the rules, its service life will be significantly extended.

Pine lining: one of the most common options for interior lining of a bathhouse due to its aesthetic appearance and decent performance characteristics

The material, which imitates timber, is also successfully used for lining the inside of a bathhouse. In addition to technical characteristics, it also has a pleasant appearance. The material is very convenient to install; it is not subject to deformation, unlike natural wood, cracks do not appear on it over time. Imitation of wood pattern gives the impression of real wood. The raw materials used to imitate timber are environmentally friendly, so this finishing option can be considered ideal.

Rules for choosing material for the interior decoration of a bath

Often the low cost of the material may seem very attractive and you will want to save on interior decoration. But you shouldn’t fall for such tempting offers, since when it comes to interior design, you should first of all focus on the environmental friendliness of the material.

Attention! Use only natural materials for the interior decoration of the bathhouse, since when the temperature rises, chemicals can have an adverse effect. negative impact on human health, in particular causing an allergic reaction.

Natural materials have the following advantages:

1. Fire resistance;
2. Absence of harmful substances;
3. Good air permeability;
4. They do not have a specific smell.

When visiting a bathhouse from natural material There will be no discomfort, since this design will breathe and circulate air. Wooden Decoration Materials would be the best solution here.

How to choose a coating treatment product

This question is more complex than the choice of the material itself, since the variation in means for protecting the coating is much greater, and the composition of such mixtures is very controversial.

Such products are designed to protect the coating from fungus and cracks. When choosing a wood treatment product, you should pay attention to the composition, which should not contain harmful components. When heated, such a composition should not emit carcinogenic substances, and there should be no specific odor. The amount of chemicals in the composition should be kept to a minimum, otherwise it may affect health.

Compositions on water based can be put on the priority list. For example, a varnish with such a composition, after drying well, will be completely harmless even at high temperatures.

Since a bathhouse is a room with increased level humidity, it is recommended to additionally treat the internal lining to protect against fungus and cracks

Wax is also often used due to its ease of application. It protects wood better than other means from possible fungus, which is quite likely to occur in a room with a high level of humidity, such as a bathhouse.

Advice. It is possible to not process the coating at all. In this case, after each visit to the bathhouse, it should be thoroughly dried, and if damage is detected, the section of material should be replaced as quickly as possible.

General conclusions on choosing the interior decoration of a bath

Naturalness is the key to a quality bath that will only bring benefits. When choosing, avoid cheap, but saturated chemicals materials, but use high-quality and natural ones, such as wood, varnishes and other water-based substances and wax mixtures. In the bath with natural finish you will enjoy not only the process, but also the aesthetic appearance.

Video: Internal lining of the bathhouse

Building a bathhouse is only half the battle. It is important to properly equip it from the inside: finish it, install a stove, arrange furniture, etc. High-quality finishing of the premises will make bath procedures truly soulful and as enjoyable as possible.

Traditionally, a bathhouse has several rooms with different humidity and temperature levels; accordingly, there are a number of restrictions on the use of certain finishing materials.

Room. Conditions	Recommended materials	Materials that are undesirable to use for finishing
Steam room. High temperature and humidity.	1. Tree. Finishing with paired wood lining is considered a classic. This material is best suited for finishing walls, floors and ceilings. Requires treatment with special impregnations (wood in a steam room cannot be coated with varnish or paint that is not natural). 2. Stone. It is often used for cladding the wall behind the stove, while simultaneously serving as a fireproof cut. The solution is practical, durable, and quite original. 3. Salt panels. Ideal material for medical procedures. Illuminated salt blocks will pleasantly transform your steam room. But it is better to use this material in saunas with electric stoves, because direct contact with water and excessive humidity have a detrimental effect on the material. 4. Facing brick. Can be used to cover the wall behind the stove. Goes well with wood paneling walls 5. Porcelain tiles and ceramic tiles with a non-slip surface for finishing the floor and/or wall behind the stove. Recommended as a finishing coat for screeds with insulation. It is better not to place tiles on a wooden base in a steam room. 6. Mosaic. Traditional material for finishing hammams. In Russians and Finnish baths not used often.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum. 3. PVC panels for covering walls and ceilings. 4. Ceramic tiles are glossy (slippery). 5. Ceiling tiles all types. 6. Plaster.
	1. Porcelain tiles and tiles with an anti-slip surface, mosaic. Recommended in combination with elastic anti-fungal moisture-resistant grout. 2. Natural or artificial stone. 3. Wood impregnated with antiseptics and water-repellent compounds. The service life of the shower is quite short. The best type of wood for finishing a shower room is larch. 4. Moisture-resistant drywall. It is used for the construction of partitions, as a base for laying tiles. Plasterboard can be used to protect laminated timber walls from moisture. It is permissible to paint GVL with moisture-resistant paint, but this option is short-lived. 5. PVC panels. A good option for finishing walls and ceilings, provided that waterproofing is properly organized. Finishing wooden walls plastic panels permissible only after complete shrinkage. 6. Moisture-resistant plaster. The finish can hardly be called budget-friendly; additional waxing is required. It is possible to bring unique patterns to life by choosing the right structure and shade of the composition.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum.
	Any available materials are suitable for finishing.	It is not recommended to decorate the wall bordering the steam room with wood or plastic. Better to use facing brick, stone, decorative plaster.

Let's look at several ways to decorate the inside of a bathhouse.

An example of finishing the ceiling of a recreation room with clapboard

Lining is used very often for wall decoration. These can be expensive panels made of cedar, larch or more budget-friendly ones made of aspen and linden. Often, bathhouse owners combine different types of wood; the finish is unusual and very beautiful. It is better to use pine lining for covering the dressing room; in a steam room it is not the best choice.

Combination of lining from different breeds wood for walls and ceilings

They fasten the lining vertically or horizontally, and also lay out patterns from the slats, fixing it to the sheathing beams. A foil vapor barrier must be used. But it’s difficult to surprise anyone with such a finish.

If you have a sufficient amount of free time and material, some diligence and accuracy, pay attention to method of installing lining in a herringbone pattern.

Step 1. Calculation of lining. Calculate the area of ​​each wall in the steam room separately (you need to multiply the length of the wall by its height), sum up the results. You don’t have to subtract the area of ​​the doorway, since it is necessary to provide a supply of material, taking into account the scraps.

When purchasing lining, pay attention to the label - manufacturers indicate the number of panels in the package, as well as the area of ​​the finishing material. Divide the total area of ​​your steam room by the area of ​​one package and get the number of packages that will be needed for finishing.

If there is no information on the label, you will have to measure the length and width of each panel without taking into account the width of the tenon, and then calculate the number of panels for finishing. It is better to purchase material with a reserve.

Important! Do not use lining with knots to finish the steam room. The density of the knots is higher than the density of solid wood; when heated, the knots will fall out.

Step 2. Preparing the lining for installation. Unpack the purchased lining and store it in a heated room. You can begin finishing in two days.

During this period, prepare your workplace and tools:

• jigsaw or circular saw;
• level, plumb line, tape measure, protractor, square, pencil;
• finishing nails, hammer;
• wooden plinth for floor and ceiling;
• mallet.

Step 3. It is better to fasten the lining with the tenon facing up. Based on this, we mark out the panels.

The herringbone can be angled up or down.

The photo shows the herringbone laying method with the corner pointing down.

Cutting must be done at an angle of 45 degrees. The ends of the panels should be on the sheathing bars. For convenience, you can make a template and mark according to it.

Step 4. We start attaching the paneling from the top. We fix the first panel with finishing nails all the way through. If the bathhouse is wooden and has not yet shrunk, it is better to leave a gap of 3-5 cm between the ceiling and the casing, which will be covered with a plinth.

We insert the second panel with a tenon into the groove of the top panel, precisely aligning the ends of both panels. We fasten with a clamp. We insert the clamp into the groove, hammer three finishing nails into the holes of the clamp through a hammer. One panel will require at least two clamps, depending on the length of the lining.

We continue fastening from top to bottom until we reach the floor. Here it is also worth leaving a gap of up to two centimeters. Lastly, we attach triangles cut from the lining at the top and bottom, fixing them through with nails.

We install the next row in the same way, but we change the direction of the lining.

After installation, cover the panel joints with a thin wooden plinth, fixing it strictly vertically with finishing nails.

There is another way to lay the “Christmas tree”. The technology is similar to laying parquet. The lining is sawn into rectangular planks. Laying is carried out with a shift equal to the width of the panel without taking into account the tenon. Fixation is done with clamps or construction staples.

Herringbone wall covering method

Prices for lining

Method of installation of lining "rhombus"

It is better to use boards rather than timber as sheathing. This will simplify the installation process. The method is applicable for both wall and ceiling finishing.

Step 1. It is necessary to draw a rhombus with angles of 30 and 60 degrees. We draw a straight line between the 30 degree angles, dividing the rhombus into 2 triangles. We cut the paper blank, transfer the drawing to the lining so that a spike is located on two faces of the diamond. We cut out the workpiece. Connect two triangles to form a rhombus. We fix the diamond with finishing nails right through to the sheathing (two nails for each triangle, we do not drive the nails all the way in).

Step 2. We take a whole panel of lining. We apply it to the diamond, connecting its tenon to the groove of the board. We make markings on the board for cutting.

We draw a straight line to the spike. On the tongue of the paneling we draw a line perpendicular to the board itself, continuing the pencil markings to the other side of the tenon of the panel.

We saw the board according to the markings. To do this, turn the lining over with the pencil markings facing down and place the edge circular saw to the line marked on the spike. Turn on the saw and make a cut.

We take the second clapboard board. We apply it with a groove to the rhombus (on the edge where there is no spike). We mark for cutting, maintaining the accuracy of the angles. We check with a protractor and a long ruler. We cut according to the markings.

Advice! It is more convenient to connect the initial elements on a table or on the floor by nailing wooden elements finishing nails to a piece of FSF plywood.

Step 3. We continue to work. Rush is unacceptable. It is important to accurately mark and cut and join corners. We mark or number each element to make it easier to install on the wall or ceiling in the future.

Step 4. When decorative element will reach the right size, you need to remove the nails and disassemble all the panels that were assembled on the table.

Let's assume that insulation and vapor barrier have already been completed, the sheathing has been filled. Using a level and a tape measure, you need to find the place where the center of the diamond will be. Accordingly, the center can only be located on the plane of one of the beams or sheathing boards. We nail the central diamond to the sheathing, driving the finishing nails into the tenon. For convenience, it is better to use a hammer to avoid breaking the lining with a hammer.

We attach the following lining boards to the central element, adjust them with light blows of the mallet and fix them in the same way.

Assembling a rhombus on the ceiling. When the decorative element is fixed, further cladding can be carried out parallel to the fixed panels or perpendicular

The joints of the rhombus can be covered with a thin wooden plinth, nailed through with finishing galvanized nails.

On a note! By placing lining panels in different directions, combining lining from different varieties wood, you can create an interesting pattern that will turn a simple steam room into a work of art. “Elite class” wood is considered to be cedar, fir, ebony and mahogany, rosewood, Canadian hemlock, African oak, pear and elm, and eucalyptus.

When the cladding is completed, impregnate the wood with a protective compound.

Video - Finishing premises with clapboards, the result of laying boards in different directions

Video - Ceilings made of lining

Mosaic wall decoration

If the walls of the bathhouse are wooden, you cannot, of course, put tiles or mosaics on them. Moisture-resistant plasterboard will serve as the basis for the mosaic. This material is quite hard and does not deform under conditions high humidity, does not highlight harmful substances into the atmosphere, that is, completely safe.

A frame for plasterboard is similar in structure to a frame for lining. To equip it, we will prepare 50x25 mm and 75x25 mm antiseptic timber, galvanized screws, perforated corners. We will mark using a tape measure, a plumb line and a level.

The timber must be antisepticized yourself or purchased material that has already been treated. Store timber indoors

Step 1. We fasten the beam under the ceiling with self-tapping screws (if made interior partition, then the upper beam must be attached to the ceiling). Using a plumb line, we make markings on the floor for attaching the bottom beam. They must be in the same plane.

Step 2. We fasten the lower beam to the wall with wood screws.

If the walls are made of blocks or bricks, fastening is done with dowels through pre-drilled holes in the wall.

Step 3. We measure the distance between the upper and lower bars, this will be the length vertical racks. We cut the timber with a jigsaw or saw. We install the first rack in the corner of the room. We attach the stand to the upper and lower beams with perforated corners and self-tapping screws.

Step 4. At equal intervals we install the following racks in the same way. We check that the racks are in the same plane.

Step 5. We cut the timber to a length equal to the distance between the posts. Using corners and self-tapping screws, we secure intermediate jumpers between the posts.

Prices for moisture-resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

Frame made of metal profiles

Step 1. Using a laser level, we check the verticality of the wall. We set the level on the floor and use a tape measure to measure the distance from the wall to the beam in different places.

Step 2. If the differences are significant, we knock down the protrusions with a hammer drill. We remove debris and dust. We repeat the plane check operation again.

Step 3. Using a rule and a pencil, draw a line on the floor (we move away from the wall by about one and a half centimeters). The profile will be located along this line. We fasten the PN 50x40 profile to the floor with dowel nails.

Draw a line along which the profile will be located

Step 4. We insert vertical guides (PN 50x50) into the lower fixed profile and fasten them to the walls (in the corners of the room) with 6x60 mm dowel nails.

Step 5. We attach the PN profile to the ceiling. The upper and lower profiles must be located in the same plane. If the length of the room exceeds the length of the profiles, we make a joining, that is, we insert one section of the profile into another with an overlap of up to 40 cm.

We insert the profile into the vertical guides. Be sure to check the horizontality of the top guide; to do this, insert a vertical profile in the center and apply a level.

If necessary, we move the upper profile a little and only then fix it with self-tapping screws to the ceiling. We install fasteners at intervals of 50 cm.

Important! The installation of electrical wiring, pipes and other communications must be completed before finishing work begins.

Step 6. Installing intermediate profiles. We fix the ends at the top and bottom with self-tapping screws and a press washer. We take the distance between the profiles taking into account the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet. For example, from the outermost post we fix the next two at a distance of 40 cm, and install the fourth post so that its center is at a distance of 120 cm from the first (corner) profile.

Step 7 We check the position of the vertical posts with a level and begin fixing the profiles with hangers.

We insert the suspension between the vertical profile and the wall. Using a marker, mark the points for drilling holes. We drill holes with a hammer drill, insert dowels into the holes, attach hangers and fix them with self-tapping screws.

We bend the shelves of the hangers, screw in the “bug” screws to attach the hanger to the profile.

First we attach the hangers in the center of the profiles, then the rest. The vertical step between the hangers is approximately 50-60 cm.

On a note! To prevent the vertical profiles from shifting or rotating along their axis during the installation of the suspensions, we fasten them with a horizontal profile, screwing it with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Step 8 We install jumpers. We mark the profiles for cutting. According to the markings, we cut the profile with a grinder.

We stretch the cord horizontally and, according to this marking, fix the jumpers with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Installed jumpers. They are necessary if the size of the plasterboard sheet is smaller than the height of the walls

On a note! Use magnetic screwdriver bits. This will simplify and speed up installation.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame

Let's look at an example of installation on a metal profile frame. Installation of sheets on a wooden frame is carried out in the same way; the joints of the sheets should be located in the center of the profiles. Direct contact of drywall with the floor should not be allowed; plastic pads will be placed under the sheets. Also, you should not fasten the sheets tightly end-to-end; it is better to leave a gap of 1 mm between the edges for ease of puttying.

We use sheets for cladding moisture-resistant plasterboard 12 mm thick. We fix the sheet with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The pitch between the screws is approximately 15-17 cm. We screw the screws in a checkerboard pattern.

First, we fasten the sheets along the perimeter, then along the line of vertical profiles. We draw a vertical line according to the level and make fastenings along this line. We recess the screw caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Prices for metal profiles

Puttying seams

The joints of the sheets must be puttied using a mesh and moisture-resistant putty. If the drywall edges have a hand-cut edge, chamfer it at a 45-degree angle with a sharp knife. A primer is applied to the joints. The mesh is embedded in the putty mixture. After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with sandpaper.

Mosaic wall decoration

To fix mosaics on bath walls, it is better to use moisture resistant glue, for example, "Ceresit CM 115".

Step 1. Prepare the glue.

The room temperature should be from +5 to +30°C. The recommended water temperature for the adhesive mixture is from +15 to +20°C.

Gradually add the dry mixture to the water. For 1.5 liters of water, 5 kg of mixture is required. We do mixing construction mixer or a drill with an appropriate attachment. The speed of the drill or mixer should not exceed 400-800 rpm. After the first mixing, pause for 5 minutes and repeat mixing.

Advice! You should not prepare a lot of glue at once; the time of its use is limited to 20-30 minutes. Do not dilute the finished glue with water. If it thickens slightly, you need to stir the mixture well.

Step 2. Apply glue to the wall. We start gluing the mosaic from the upper left corner. We collect some glue with a regular spatula and apply the mixture to the edge of a notched trowel. Distribute the glue evenly over the drywall.

Step 3. Unpack the mosaic, take one fragment and press the mesh to the glue. Carefully straighten so that there is an equal distance between the elements. Roll the entire fragment with a roller or wide rubber spatula.

It is important to lay them level so that the rows are even. The area of ​​applied glue should not greatly exceed the size of one fragment.

Only the mesh can be cut; it is not recommended to deform the pieces of ceramics or glass themselves.

Step 4. 24 hours later (or more, depending on the speed of drying of the glue) after laying the mosaic, we grout it. To fill the seams we use a moisture-repellent composition with antifungal properties, for example, Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic.

For 2 kilograms of dry mixture you will need 640 ml of cool water. Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer at a speed of up to 800 rpm. Gradually pour the dry mixture into the water. After mixing, take a five-minute break and repeat mixing the grout. The finished solution must be used within two hours. It is unacceptable to exceed the specified amount of water, so as not to deteriorate the properties of the grout.

Apply the grout to the mosaic with a rubber spatula, spreading it diagonally. After 15-20 minutes, remove the excess with a damp (but not wet) sponge or rag. We remove the remaining grout from the surface of the mosaic with a dry rag.

You can decorate a shower room or dressing room entirely with mosaics, or combine this finishing material with ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware.

Soapstone chlorite is highly valued by bathhouse attendants for beneficial features. The stone accumulates heat well, cools down for a long time, and the vapors emanating from soapstone have a healing effect on the body.

Soapstone is used to decorate stoves and walls in steam rooms, but nothing will prevent you from decorating, for example, a relaxation room in a bathhouse or a shower room with tiles made from this stone.

Soapstone is available in various variations - tiles with a smooth or textured surface, mosaics and even bricks. As additional elements Manufacturers offer baseboards, borders and corners made of soapstone. If you are finishing the wall in a steam room, you will need heat-resistant stone adhesive (used for lining stoves and fireplaces), and when lining a shower room it is better to use moisture-resistant mixtures.

The surface on which the tiles will be laid must be flat and pre-primed. The tiles are laid from the bottom up, keeping the rows horizontal. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel and the tiles are carefully pressed against the wall. Laying is possible both end-to-end, that is, without gaps between adjacent elements, and under jointing. The second method is suitable for tiles of regular shape and with a smooth surface. Cutting tiles is done with a grinder with a diamond blade. The joints are grouted with a heat-resistant stone mixture.

The combination of soapstone tiles with different textures looks quite extraordinary.

A combination of smooth soapstone tiles and tiles with a torn stone texture

Prices for soapstone

soapstone

Video - Extraction and processing of soapstone

Video - Technology of gluing decorative stone

Remember - finishing the inside of a bath should not only be exclusive, but also practical. It is important that finishing materials do not contribute to the development of mold and mildew, are easy to clean, safe for health and as durable as possible.

What kind of materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And it’s much more pleasant and familiar to the eye wooden panels. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.

Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. Difference from simple edged boards consisted of the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, due to which maximum contact between adjacent panels was ensured. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technical progress, the production of different types of lining has also stepped forward. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.

Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic doesn't hold up high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.

Choosing lining for cladding

Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there is ventilation ducts, which prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to , the moisture content of wooden products is allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.

Prices for wooden lining

wooden lining

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. Best options for the steam room - aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.

Wood	Color	Properties	Photo
Aspen	White, acquires a silvery tint. The yellow growth rings are barely visible.	Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to even hammer a nail into an aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up.
Linden	Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte shine.	The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up little, and in the steam room it releases aromatic components that are beneficial to health. When in contact with linden wood in a humid environment, the iron oxidizes and rusts, and streaks appear.
Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar	Brown with a pink tint.	One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack.
	Beige, brown with red shades. It gets darker with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin canals.	Good mechanical properties, toughness, moderate warpage. Does not cause difficulties during processing. It releases resin when heated, so it is not used for covering those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. It is not suitable for covering the ceiling of a steam room or it requires repeated heating of the steam room followed by removal of the resin that has emerged (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bathhouse, it is better to choose Extra-class pine lining.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

Class or variety	Description
Extra	Free from cracks, knots and other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
A or 1	The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter no more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ panel long, non-through cracks - less than 9.5 cm long (the crack exit is directed towards the end of the panel) that appear when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There may be tars and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 m.p.
B or 2	There are many knots, of which no more than 2 can fall out. by 1 m.p. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long; hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pieces per 1 m.p.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
C or 3	The quality is low. Many different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstery technical premises or rough work.

The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.

All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.

Profile	Description	Scheme
Standard	Similar to the classic quarter-plank lining. It has a tongue-and-groove connection, with the tenon being shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in its rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensation.
	Manufactured according to DIN 68126 standard. Has an extended tenon. After installing the lining, the wall surface is ribbed.
	Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Shtil lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, relief texture of the wall after assembling the panels.
	Used for finishing external walls and premises. Stylized to look like a rounded log. There is a tongue-and-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the back side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of ​​the internal lining

For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of ​​the steam room lining.

1. Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
2. Area of ​​the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
3. Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
4. total area rooms: 6 (ceiling) + 7.5 (first long wall) + 7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m 2.

We calculate the area of ​​the hallway paneling.

1. Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
2. Area two long walls: 3x2.5=7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
3. Area of ​​two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
4. Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of ​​the window and doorways, then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed to cover the inner surface of the bathhouse.

The most popular profile size is as follows:

• panel thickness 12.5 mm;
• panel width 96 mm;
• panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how many square meters of material are in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.

Advice! You should not purchase lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a product Low quality, which will quickly lose its properties and the lining of the bathhouse will have to be completely or partially replaced.

Choosing the method of installing the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But more rational option for a bath it is horizontal.

Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:

When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if an accidental blow, fallen coal or high humidity will be damaged vertical board, you will have to dismantle the entire wall.

Installation of lining

Before finishing The walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.

Prices for PVC lining

pvc lining

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's consider step by step process ceiling trim.

Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling

The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. Optimal distance between adjacent slats - from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.

The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the slats using a stretched fishing line/cord or laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.

In some cases, when you need to do more low ceiling in the bathhouse, metal hangers are used to fasten the lathing.

In this case, first use long self-tapping screws on the ceiling (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials) the hangers are fixed, after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with coarse threads are used, length 3.5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.

It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.

Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling

Do it in a clapboard through holes and there is no need to hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the batten, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls

We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.

The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal plots 40-50 cm each, with the resulting step, attach the horizontal bars of the sheathing using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled for them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. To arrange the lining strips horizontally, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and vertical slats on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls

If the lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wall wooden planks a gap of 2 cm must be left.

To decorate the corner beautifully, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions described above).

If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.

We drill holes for the screws, place the board on the sheathing (be sure to have the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, and check that it is horizontal. Screw it into drilled holes self-tapping screws We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.

We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.

Video - Steam room lathing

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.