How much does the house sit? What to do if the foundation shrinks? Reducing the size of linen items
During the process of washing and ironing, reversible elastic deformation of the threads occurs in the fabric structure when the fabric strives to correct the tension set initially. There is an increase in the cross-section of the fabric threads during swelling. This leads to straightening of the threads of one system (weft or warp), after which deformation of the threads of the other system occurs (warp or weft, respectively).
Shrinkage depends on the type of fabric fiber: linen, cotton, viscose. The degree of twisting of the threads, with more threads stretching more due to an increase in their diameter and a change in the structure of the fabric. From the wrong one temperature regime when washing and ironing.
List of fabrics subject to shrinkage
Cotton fabrics are subject to shrinkage. Depending on the weaving, it varies from 3% to 5%. Tartan and corduroy give the greatest shrinkage. Slightly less for chintz, teak, satin, calico, cambric, and other cotton fabrics. Fabrics made from linen and containing linen shrink up to 6%, as do mixed fabrics. Moreover, the more cotton or linen contained in the fabric, the greater the shrinkage.
After washing, fabric with elastane contracts, as the previously stretched elastane compresses it. The fabric can then stretch again to 10% of its original length.
Woolen fabrics shrink from 1.5 to 3.5%. This applies to both drape and thin wool fabric. According to some reports, wool is subject to shrinkage to a greater extent, up to 5-6%. This deficiency is also observed in wool blend fabrics.
The shrinkage of fabrics made from natural silk is slightly less than that of fabrics made from artificial silk. The greatest shrinkage is observed in silk crepe fabrics: from natural silk - up to 5%, rayon crepe fabrics - up to 7%. Satin silk fabrics can lose 3.5% to 5% of their original length. Staple fabrics and viscose – up to 4%. Nylon fabrics – up to 1.5%, semi-nylon fabrics – up to 3.5%. Shrinkage is caused by cushioning materials: interlining, dublin, adhesive padding.
Decorating fabrics before cutting
Decatting is a wet-heat treatment of fabrics to shrink them before cutting the product. All fabrics that contain 50 percent or more natural fibers are decatified. These are wool, linen, cotton, hemp, silk, and rayon fabrics. If the product that you plan to sew will be washed, decating is required. If you plan to dry clean (, suits), just iron the fabric with.
Before cutting, interlining fabrics are soaked and dried, carefully aligned, but not ironed.
Cotton and linen fabrics are soaked, dried and ironed slightly damp. The silk is soaked and dried. Do not iron with a hot iron. Silk fabrics that may fade are moistened by using a damp sheet in which the silk fabric is wrapped before ironing. Plain silk fabrics are ironed without steam on the reverse side to avoid stains.
For woolen fabrics, moisten the underside with a sprayer. After 8-12 hours folded, the fabric is ironed from the inside out. Thin woolen and wool-blend fabrics simply need to be ironed through a damp cloth.
Shrinkage in new houses. Features of finishing and renovation of a new apartment
Shrinkage of a new house, shaking and drying out are natural phenomena. And they must be taken into account when planning renovations in a new apartment. Our advice is to help homeowners in new buildings.
Why is home shrinkage inevitable?
Experts call the shrinkage process of a new house natural. The piles and foundation of a new building have to withstand the pressure of the structure, which increases as residents move in. The degree of shrinkage of a house largely determines the type of foundation and the soil characteristics of the area where the house is located. On so-called soft soils, it takes longer than when building on stable, hard soils.
Responsible development companies base the choice of foundation on geodetic and geological research. All nuances are taken into account, including soil type, level groundwater and other factors. Usually foundation shrinkage building is calculated and included in the project in advance.
A newly built house can “settle” in its place quite long time- from 2 to 6 years. On average, complete shaking, shrinkage and shrinkage occurs in 2-3 years. However, the walls of some buildings have been “walking” for more than 6 years.
Moreover, the heavier the structure, the more noticeable the process - thus, the shrinkage of a new house made of heavier brick is much more difficult than buildings made of lightweight cellular concrete.
When to start renovations in a new apartment?
It is quite understandable that the owners want to begin renovating the apartment immediately after purchase. Especially if the property was purchased with rough finishing. Living in such conditions is, of course, uncomfortable. But don't rush to invest serious funds in renovating your new apartment. Builders say that ideally a house with a rough finish should last at least two winters. Then you can hope that the consequences of foundation shrinkage will pass unnoticed for you.
And the actual consequences are minimal displacements of walls and ceilings. They cannot be identified by eye, but by the deformations of the finish it is quite possible.
The most common weak point is the tiles in the bathroom, which in the early years have a “bad habit” of moving away from the base and cracking. Other damage zones depend on the material and compliance with the construction technology of the new house. These are mainly cracks in the tile seams of bathrooms and kitchens, peeling wallpaper, cracking of plaster and paint on walls and ceilings, sagging of doors, window openings, “wavy” parquet or laminate and similar “troubles”.
Features of shrinkage in a panel, brick and monolithic house
The shrinkage process occurs differently in houses made of different materials.
Shrinkage of a panel house
Panel houses are assembled from factory reinforced concrete structures. During their production, tolerances are initially laid down for assembly seams. Shrinkage of a panel house is the longest. Cracks most often form along the seams between the slabs. The period for completing the main shrinkage is 2-3 years. In practice, this stage is sometimes delayed indefinitely.
Shrinkage in monolithic frame buildings
Monolithic frame houses are a cast concrete seamless structure with brick or panel cladding. The small thickness of the walls and ceilings reduces the total mass of a monolithic house, which reduces the time for foundation shrinkage and evenly distributes the load. With strict adherence to construction technology, the period for completing the main shrinkage is about 1 year, the minimum.
Shrinkage of a brick house
Since a brick house is heavy, this always dictates special requirements for the foundation, which must withstand significant loads. As in the monolith, in brick house no seams between panels. If the technology is broken, cracks can appear not only in corners and joints, but also in a diagonal direction. Shrinkage of a brick house occurs unevenly and can last up to 5-6 years.
From shrinking the house to finishing the apartment
In general, for the first time it is better to limit yourself to democratic “cosmetic” repairs.
Well, if you are still undertaking a brand new renovation, turning to services will help reduce the risks professional specialists. Experienced home decorators know how to minimize the effects of home shrinkage. For example, they may recommend more elastic materials that can withstand minor changes in surface geometry: non-woven or liquid wallpaper, special plasters, vinyl tiles, stretch ceiling etc. True, the cost of such “gutta-percha” finishing will be more expensive.
And one more “but”: no matter how reliable the materials you paid for are, an honest contractor, hand on heart, still will not vouch for the quality of finishing in the new building.
Taking into account the timing and consequences of the shrinkage of the house, the purchase of an apartment with finishing from the developer, as a rule, in a few years will also require investments in new renovation. But when the process of shrinking the house is over, it will be possible to safely use more expensive and high-quality finishing materials.
You will find the coordinates of companies offering professional services for the repair and finishing of apartments and offices in the section of the Catalog of Construction Products and Services "Construction and Repair"
Based on Internet materials
During daily wear, clothes tend to stretch and change their original shape. Most of all, this worries the female half, who always strives to look impeccable and attractive. Therefore, women are always looking for ways to wash things so that they shrink, but at the same time do not lose their color and original qualities.
Regular wear is most reflected in clothing made from natural and mixed fabrics. It is almost impossible to restore exclusively synthetic fabric fibers after stretching using only washing. Therefore, the effectiveness of the recommendations provided will depend on the type and quality of the fabrics of the product.
Shrinkage of clothes after washingYou don't need expensive special products or powders for washing. The whole secret of success will depend on the correct temperature contrast and correctly selected detergents for the type and color of the fabric.
Wool and its shrinkage secrets
Knowing the characteristics of wool fibers and the nuances of washing them, you can easily develop tactics to make them shrink.
When working with wool products there is important rule: wool does not tolerate sharp changes temperatures and requires careful attention
Before washing, you need to read the washing instructions, study the labels, tags, tags on the product. Find out the manufacturer's specific recommendations for caring for wool fabric. To shrink things you will have to disturb them a little established rules, but this will have to be done with care and attention.
If your favorite sweater, for example, has stretched out, then you need to do something in the following way:
- Soak the item for 30 minutes in water that is 20°C degrees higher than what is indicated on the label.
- Rinse in cool water. The greater the shrinkage required, the higher the liquid temperature difference between washing and rinsing should be.
- Excess moisture is removed by blotting the item with a terry towel. It is not recommended to twist wool products, as you can deform the product and get unpleasant pills.
- Dry the sweater horizontally, placing it on a dry terry towel and shaping it into the desired shape.
For proper drying, for example, a woolen hat, there is good recommendations. After washing and rinsing, you need to put the wet cap on a container with a round bottom and a smooth surface of the appropriate size (jar, inverted salad bowl, vase, etc.). This manipulation will give shape and achieve the right size headdress.
Using a balloon to dry a wool hat How to wash a woolen item in washing machine for her to sit down? And should this be done with its help? Only the housewife herself can answer these questions, whether she is ready for experiments and unpredictable results. After all, it is quite difficult to control the washing process in an automatic machine.
The only recommendation for those who decide to wash wool in a machine is to select a special mode for such products. The degree of shrinkage of an item is significantly affected by the level of rotation of the automatic machine drum per minute during spinning. Here you need to be vigilant.
Methods for washing cotton products to achieve their shrinkage
The ability to stretch during wear is most pronounced in cotton clothing. Especially if, before sewing the item, the manufacturer did not process the material appropriately so that the fabric shrinks as much as possible and does not behave unpredictably in the finished product.
There are several ways and recipes on how to wash something so that it shrinks. Due to the use of temperature changes, you need to choose the right cleaning agent for white and colored items to prevent fabrics from shedding.
During machine washable you need to set the water heating level 20°C degrees higher than what is indicated on the label of the cotton item. A standard spin is recommended, and if there is a machine drying function, it must be set to the maximum temperature.
Setting the program on the washing machine At hand wash You can immerse the product in boiling water and leave it until the water cools. After this, transfer the clothes to cold water. After squeezing out excess water, you can lay the item on a towel to dry.
It is important to remember that when putting colored cotton items into boiling water, you need to be extremely careful. Even a short time spent in hot water, can contribute to fabric shedding and loss of color vibrancy.
You can also use an iron with a built-in steam function to shrink cotton fabric. To achieve the result, you need to iron the item with a well-heated iron using steam.
Impact on denim fabric for shrinkage
How to wash jeans so that they shrink, but at the same time do not lose color? When answering this important question, you need to take into account that denim contains cotton. Therefore, washing should be done as for cotton items. This rule applies to classic denim trousers. Jeans with added stretch are unlikely to fit even one size.
- You can safely wash denim in a washing machine, setting the temperature to 40-60°C. Temperatures higher than this may cause the color of the fabric to fade.
- You can dry your trousers on heating devices, in the dryer, or simply by hanging it in natural conditions. At this time they should be completely straightened. This will help you iron your pants later with minimal effort.
When washing jeans by hand, you need to soak them first in cold water, and after a quarter of an hour transfer to a hot place. When the water has cooled, you need to wring out the pants using a terry towel. To ensure that the length of the item is maintained, it must be dried vertically. In this case, only the volume will decrease, and the length will remain unchanged.
Washing jeans by hand in a basin Reducing silk products
Silk items are very delicate and can easily lose their attractive appearance. Therefore, they must be treated appropriately.
To reduce the size of a silk item, you will have to wash it by hand, since automatic washing of such items is unacceptable. The item should be placed in warm water, then dry under normal conditions.
Ways to wash synthetic materials so they shrink
The easiest way to achieve shrinkage is nylon and polyester products. To achieve a positive result, just wash them in cold water. Such things are not afraid of drying in an automatic washing machine at high speeds. But if the machine does not have a drying function, then it is necessary to dry it on the radiator, or by hanging it in the sun.
Washing will not help reduce the size of acrylic, lycra, or spandex items. It is almost impossible to return such a stretched product to its original shape. Only a skilled seamstress can help by adjusting the item to fit your figure, or going to the store for something new in the right size.
We hope that we have covered in sufficient detail the question of how to wash an item so that it shrinks. Try to implement the above recommendations, but be extremely careful not to ruin your clothes.
Method monolithic construction came to economy class from a more expensive sector of the industry. There is a rumor among potential home buyers that monolithic houses are better than panel houses. To the reasonable question “Why?”, everyone just shrugs. “Everyone thinks so,” is their main argument. Let's sort everything out, which houses are better, monolithic or panel.
Which house is better, monolith or panel?
First, let's figure out what a monolithic house means. This is a building constructed by pouring a concrete mixture into a prepared formwork, inside which is located reinforcement cage. In this case, each subsequent element is connected to the previous one without connecting seams.
There is also one more concept. Monolithic brick house - what is it? The difference between a brick-monolithic house and a simply monolithic one is that in the first type of building the outer walls of the building are additionally lined with brick.
Let's go through the main properties that characterize housing construction.
- Price. For a potential buyer, this characteristic is the most important when choosing the type of home. And the “socket” here stands out with the best side. And even if the cost of a house made of a monolith does not differ much from the cost of a panel house, then at the stage of repairing and finishing the apartment, the future owner of the “monolithic” living space will have to spend a considerable amount.
- Speed. Panel houses are built almost 3 times faster than monolithic ones.
A panel house is essentially created at a factory and transported piece by piece to the construction site. Monolithic ones are built directly on the construction site. Here the speed of construction is influenced by many external factors. Weather conditions play a significant role here. For example, at subzero temperatures, concrete does not set at all, and therefore construction becomes impossible. You have to warm it up concrete mixture, which reduces its quality, or introduce special anti-frost additives, which significantly affects the cost, or freeze construction during the cold period, which increases the construction time of the building.
- Appearance. It is on this point that monolithic housing construction occupies a leading position. “Monolith” does not limit the imagination of architects both in choosing a façade solution and in planning apartments.
Panel houses are characterized by monotony of shapes, template facades and standard planning solutions. The apartments in the panel building are mostly one- and two-room apartments, of small size and with a boring layout.
- Shrinkage. The question of whether a monolithic house is shrinking is relevant for many potential apartment owners. After all, experts often advise not to do major repairs in a new building right away, but to wait a year or two, because due to the shrinkage of the house, the newly laid tiles can crack and fall off, the drywall will also crack, and the plaster will even begin to crumble in pieces.
- Lifetime. Due to the minimum possible number of joints and uniform distribution of the load on the foundation, the service life of monolithic houses is much longer than panel houses. The shelf life of a monolith structure reaches 100-140 years if the technological requirements during the construction of the building are observed. The service life of the “socket” is limited to 30-40 years.
In order for you to form an objective opinion, we will determine which house is better, a monolith or a brick.
Which house is better, monolithic or brick?
- Construction time. Due to the greater labor intensity of the process, a brick house takes longer to build.
- Appearance. Both types of houses offer freedom of design thought.
- Shrinkage. A monolithic house shrinks evenly, which is almost invisible to ordinary people, while a brick house shrinks quite strongly.
To summarize all of the above, we will briefly indicate the pros and cons of a monolithic house.
Monolithic house - pros and cons
Advantages of a monolithic house
- Enough high speed construction.
- Low shrinkage.
- Light weight. Thanks to improved technology, the required thickness of external walls is reduced.
- Uniform distribution of load on the foundation.
- High strength. Achieved by minimizing the number of joining seams.
- Free layout of apartments.
- Increased living space by reducing wall thickness.
- Long service life.
- High seismic resistance.
Cons of a monolithic house
- Price. Compared to a panel house, material costs are 10-15% higher.
- Influence of weather conditions. Since the creation of building elements is carried out directly on construction site, air temperature significantly affects the quality of the structures created and the construction time.
- The importance of strict adherence to the correctness of technological processes. Good thermal and sound insulation, high strength of the building and its durability are achieved only with the proper level of control over all operations.
- The need for high-quality compaction of the poured mixture.
- Reinforced concrete walls require the use of insulation.
- Sound insulation is also poor in monolithic structures.
FAQ
Is it possible to demolish walls in a monolithic house?
Apartment in monolithic house owners usually receive it without internal partitions. In this case, the owner independently creates a layout for his living space. If there is a need to demolish a wall, it is worth remembering some rules.
There are 2 types of redevelopment: simple and complex. Simple redevelopments involve intervention only in non-load-bearing walls and structures, while complex ones, accordingly, are characterized by changes in load-bearing walls.
Simple redevelopments can be done without prior approval. However, it should be taken into account that you cannot expand the bathroom and move plumbing fixtures beyond the boundaries of the “wet zone”.
If you want to expand the bathroom or move the plumbing outside, you need to create a project. Any design organization will help develop it. After all the work, it is necessary, again, to approve it.
Permission for complex redevelopment is not so easy to obtain. To do this, it is necessary to develop a project, which must include drawings before and after the changes and an explanatory note. You also need to arm yourself with permission from neighbors above and below to explore their apartments.
Is it possible to ditch the ceiling in a monolithic house?
Channels for utility networks in a monolithic house are provided in advance. This is done so as not to weaken the structure or expose the reinforcement through gating or any other intervention.
This dangerous operation can become a real threat to the life of not only your life, but also the lives of all residents of the house.
In this case, if you need to change the location of the wiring, it is better not to ditch the ceiling, but to disguise the cables with a layer of plaster.
Reviews from residents of monolithic houses
Ksenia
About a year ago we moved into a monolithic house. Before that we lived in a panel house. The main advantage is that the apartment is warm even in severe frosts. But the sound insulation is not good. Even worse than it was in the old apartment.
Vladimir
I took an apartment in a brick-monolithic building. The appearance is pleasing to the eye, the cladding and finishing are... good level. The builders did not skimp on high-quality insulation and sound insulation. It's strange that someone complains about their neighbors. Apparently, the whole point is how much the builders adhere to the norms and rules of technological processes.
Sergey
My team does finishing work in new buildings. A year and a half ago, we rented out an apartment in a monolithic building on a turnkey basis. The customer is happy, during this time nothing fell off, the ceiling is in place, etc. At the same time, similar repairs in a brick house did not last even a month. Tiles fell down in the kitchen. The owner blames us. But the house just shrank so much!
stroika-tovar.ru
The answer depends on which house you bought the apartment in.
Nowadays they build monolithic, monolithic-frame, prefabricated and brick houses.
The most reliable and resistant to shrinkage and cracking are monolithic reinforced concrete houses.
Brick houses are the most susceptible to deformation.
Almost all new buildings are built on pile foundations, one of the most reliable and non-shrinking, with a large margin of safety. Foundations are calculated for maximum static and dynamic (horizontal and vertical) loads, and after that the result is multiplied by the load reliability factor (GOST 27751-88), which reaches at different conditions up to 1.5.
New buildings experience slight shrinkage throughout the year—this period accounts for maximum amount apartment renovation.
Most of the talk about large cracks and laid tiles falling off due to shrinkage of the house is a myth.
Nowadays, it is quite common to install standardized concrete sanitary cabins in new buildings with separate or combined bathrooms, left or right (in relation to sewer riser). Such cabins are cast at the factory in a monolithic design, only the floor, in the form of a separate pallet, is welded from below to the walls. Such bathrooms are not subject to any deformation or shrinkage - you can safely lay tiles in them and not be afraid that they will fall off.
If your new building has just such a monolithic bathroom, no cracks will appear in it.
Almost always such cabins are installed in prefabricated panel houses, less often in monolithic and monolithic-frame ones, and in brick high-rises, mostly sanitary rooms are fenced off from brick or gypsum, slag, foam... blocks.
You can start making repairs immediately after putting the house into operation, which, by the way, is what most residents do.
To avoid problems, you need to do the repairs correctly:
- do not disturb the supporting structures of the house;
- Screeds should be installed using damper tape and expansion joints;
- install floating or suspended ceilings;
- wallpaper in internal corners do not wrap the rooms, but glue them end-to-end;
- if the bathroom is not concrete - on the internal and external corners you need to use plastic or metal decorative corners.
www.remotvet.ru
Advantages and disadvantages
The main advantage of this technology is the uniqueness of the construction - the series is monolithic brick houses differ from each other because they are made according to a special project. The buildings are expressive and individual in their own way. architectural style. It seems that the house is entirely made of brick, but it is used sparingly, due to which it significantly benefits in the cost of construction (see also the article Monolithic brick house - pros and cons from the resident’s point of view).
In the 50s, prefabricated construction was preferred in the USSR. Then they began to use brick, and in the 70s they began to build panel houses en masse. And only in recent decades has the technology of building a monolithic brick house become the most promising for developers.
The construction of a monolith is fundamentally different from a panel. Panel houses are built like a construction set from cubes, and the monolith is the supporting frame of the house made of solid concrete.
The concrete skeleton of the building grows from floor to floor; it is poured using wooden or metal formwork. The formwork material does not affect the final strength of the structure; only the appearance of the concrete depends on it.
How does a monolithic house differ from a brick one?
- Concrete does not release or absorb moisture, so it will be more difficult to breathe in such houses.
- Due to the minimum of seams at the joints, heat loss and audibility in monolithic brick houses are reduced.
- The price of building from a monolith is cheaper, but durability and safety are higher.
- Due to the high speed of construction, such houses are more attractive to investors.
- Brick-monolithic construction allows, due to the frame, to increase the number of storeys of buildings several times, compared to ordinary houses.
Note! Brick-monolithic houses have one feature: the walls in them are self-supporting enclosing structures, and they should not transmit or accept the loads of other floors, except for their weight and the effects of wind. Separation of concrete from internal force processes is usually carried out through expansion joints.
Construction technology
If we talk about the technology of constructing modern multi-storey monolithic brick houses, then brief instructions for their construction will look like this:
- The foundation pit is dug and the foundation is cast.
- Then the reinforced concrete frame is erected and the formwork is poured. When the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed and new floors are built. Thus, the frame of the house is built floor by floor.
- When the first 2-3 floors of the house are ready, the laying of wall partitions usually begins, for this they use red building brick, single or double sand-lime brick M 150.
- In parallel with the construction of new floors, all communications are carried out on already completed ones: pipes, radiators, window blocks, electricity is connected. This allows you to increase the speed of work due to the division of labor - all builders can work at the same time.
The video in this article will tell you how houses are built using monolithic brick technology:
Problems of modern new buildings
Since brick walls are usually made multi-layered, with an inner layer, insulation and cladding, therefore, to maintain spatial rigidity and reliability of the structure, they are connected with a flexible connection using masonry mesh and reinforcement (see also the article Which house is better - monolithic, brick or panel. Information for buyers).
If masons have little experience, they do not understand the importance of having technological seams and strengthening the masonry. An ordinary builder considers this unnecessary and thinks that the floors should be supported by brick walls. If you lay out the masonry without resting on monolithic slab and seal the seams tightly with cement, stone wall will appear to be open, and after the supporting structures shrink, the walls will begin to bend like an accordion and eventually crack.
The appearance of a large number of cracks will provoke moisture from slanting rains to enter the walls, and then the bricks will bulge and the mortar will wash out. Such defects can lead to critical consequences, so it will be necessary to take comprehensive measures and bring the defective structures to the design position.
Note! If the developer’s warranty has not yet been completed, in case of violation of the project and SNiP requirements, he must correct everything at his own expense. If the residents of the house do not respond to the appearance of such cracks in time by ordering an examination, then they will have to correct everything at their own expense.
In the photo you can see the result of the technology violation:
Many buyers of such houses are concerned about the question of whether such a house is shrinking, because the repairs made may be spoiled due to the appearance of cracks in the new building. This depends on several factors, including the developer.
If the technology is followed, shrinkage should be uniform and minimal, but the appearance of cracks is still possible in the first years after the house is commissioned.
Therefore, to prevent cracks during repairs, you can use several tricks:
- Use high-quality sand concrete for the screed. For plasticity, you need to add a plasticizer and reinforcement to the solution, and make expansion joints.
- Even seamless tiles need to be glued with indentations using crosses.
- For walls and ceilings you need to use fiberglass. Its use minimizes the appearance of cracks in the finish.
- Parquet flooring can be laid on plywood rather than screed to create a floating structure.
Redevelopment of a brick-monolithic house
Due to the fact that all the walls are supported by columns, in such an apartment you can make almost any redevelopment, openings and arches in the walls.
It is only important to comply general rules so that the layout of apartments in a monolithic brick house is legal:
- You cannot dismantle load-bearing supports, walls, beams, ventilation, or wall them up in the wall. gas pipes and wiring, central heating risers.
- To change gasification and water supply systems, you must contact a special service.
- You cannot install a bathroom above the kitchen and neighbors’ living quarters, or remove fire fighting devices. To remodel the bathroom, toilet and kitchen, you need to obtain the consent of your neighbors.
- Living rooms must be at least 9 m2, with a width of at least 2.25 m. A window and a heating radiator are required.
- You cannot increase the utility area at the expense of the living space, but you can increase the living area at the expense of the corridor.
Types of formwork
A monolithic + monolithic brick house can be built using two types of formwork:
- Removable – reusable;
- Fixed - disposable.
Permanent formwork is suitable for both single-story and multi-story buildings, using scaffolding. To create it, walls are made of wood-cement hollow slabs or expanded polystyrene.
They are attached parallel and secured with metal ties. Concrete is poured into the voids between the slabs, resulting in a wall of 3 layers.
Due to the monolithic design, good sound and heat insulation properties are provided. Additionally you can do facade insulation polystyrene foam or min. cotton wool
To increase the height of such walls, special wire ties with an anti-corrosion coating are used. It is especially important to first lay communications and then pour concrete.
Approximate price 1 sq. m. walls 28 cm thick with permanent polystyrene foam formwork:
- Formwork = 800 rub;
- Reinforcement d8-10 mm10 kg (minimum for small storey building) = 200 rub;
- Concrete M200 (B15) – 0.153 m3 = 382 rubles, 5 rubles.
Total: 1382.5 rub.
Removable formwork is most often made of steel, but for small volumes of work wooden formwork is also suitable. Reusable formwork is needed to create hollow blocks.
It is a metal box without a bottom, into which 2 hollow formers in the form of hollow boxes are inserted. To fix the formwork, removable holders are used.
A monolith made using this technology does not have the same insulating properties as those with permanent formwork. To correct this, loose insulation, such as foam chips, is poured into the solution. The main advantage of this technology is the high speed of work and the ability to erect blocks with your own hands directly on the construction site.
Conclusion
The construction of monolithic houses has become popular due to the high speed of construction and low costs of materials (find out here how to cut a brick). However, in the pursuit of speed, builders often deliver objects with gross violations of the design, which later causes problems for residents.
klademkirpich.ru
When choosing an apartment in a new building, most buyers prefer the so-called “rough finish”. In practice, this usually means that new residents receive ownership of the walls (“box”) with supplied water, gas, electricity and heating, and all other work - from leveling the floor and walls to installing plumbing, furniture and household appliances– they do it themselves or involve specialists. Undoubtedly, this approach allows you to transform the space of the apartment in accordance with the owners’ ideas about coziness and comfort, as well as embody the most daring ideas in interior design. However, before starting a serious renovation, many people think: “Is it time to start it?”
The specificity of new buildings is that the building, while adding floors, shrinks, and sometimes this process continues after construction is completed. As a result, microcracks may appear in the walls and ceilings and distortions may occur, which are sometimes not noticeable to the human eye, but can damage the finishing of the premises. And new residents, frightened by stories about suddenly cracked tiles or falling off plaster, put off repairs in their new home until better times.
To understand the truth and myths about shrinkage, we turned to experts and asked them to tell us when it is best to start repairs in a new building, as well as give recommendations on the choice of building and finishing materials.
Below are the responses received.
Do you think it is possible to begin a full renovation of a new apartment in the first year, immediately after receiving the keys?
Alexander Selin:
“There is a widespread opinion that in the first year it is better not to make repairs in the apartment, since subsequently various problems with cracks may appear, the house shrinks, it needs to “settle” (as they say). But this is more of a myth, because the time during which the house is being built is enough for structural shrinkage. Shrinkage is more related to soil movement, so a similar problem may arise much later in an old house.
Cracks that appear in a new house after some time are more often associated with general deficiencies in the design of the house, mainly with non-compliance with technology in relation to building materials and other nuances, for example, the rush to complete a new building.
I would recommend paying more attention to the following: if you can take your time with renovations and moving in, wait at least through the first winter after putting the house into commission. Then you can check how warm the wall structure is, whether there is freezing in cold weather, whether the joints are airtight in the rain, and make sure the heating is working. This advice is more suitable for the situation when the house is rented out in the warm season, the heating is only being tested, and it is difficult to know how good the thermal insulation is in the monolithic brick houses, are the seams in panel houses sealed well, etc.”
Denis Karimov:
“Customers periodically ask me when to start renovations in a new apartment. I can’t give a definite answer - it simply doesn’t exist. Everything is individual and depends on many factors. How well built is the house? Will it shrink within a year or 5 years? Have your closest neighbors done any renovations? Do you have time to wait, or do you need to move faster? What renovations are you planning? And so on…
As an example, I’ll tell you about renovations in my apartment. Monolithic brick, 28 floors, long-term construction building stood for three years before completion. When we were given the keys in June 2012, I immediately started making repairs, since we needed to move in before September (my daughter was going to first grade). The renovation lasted 3 months, literally day and night. And, oh, miracle! On September 5, we moved into the apartment. Of the residents, I was the first to complete the renovation. I have walls ready to be painted, plaster cornices, gypsum board ceiling.
The neighbors around were renovating – to the left, to the right, below. It was noisy, but tolerable. A year passed: there was not a single crack in my apartment.
And so the neighbors from above began to repair! They started by dismantling the walls of the ventilation ducts. For two days my house was hell: the breaker was working, pieces of walls were falling onto the ceiling and water was leaking from above. As a result, the gypsum board ceiling cracked, the plaster cornices cracked, the ceiling in the bathroom was flooded, and 2 tiles cracked in the bathroom where the ventilation duct runs. All in two days. I took this philosophically: I knew what I was getting into when I started the renovation before everyone else, and I understood that this would happen over time. The renovation of the apartment above was completed a month ago. For the summer I plan to do my own cosmetics, repaint the walls, restore the plaster and ceiling.
I think, main enemy your renovation - these are the neighbors from above. It is better to wait until their repairs are completed. The house may shrink for a long time, or not at all, depending on your luck. And then the neighbors “additionally load” the house with screeds and walls (30-40 tons for a 100-meter apartment).”
Vitaly Likhov
“This is a fairly global issue, and a lot depends on the specific situation.
Regarding the start date of repair work: it is certainly safest to carry out work last. But this means that the apartment will stand still, and its owner will delay the pleasure of living in it. And life, as we know, is one. In addition, according to experience, renovations subside 7-10 years after the house is put into operation, since each house has enough a large number of investment apartments. This means that even if you undergo renovations after 2-3 floors, the risk of cracks increases significantly.
In a panel house, the risk of cracks appearing is much less than in monolithic brick and brick houses. This is due to the design of the houses and the degree of their readiness.”
Konstantin Kukkoev
“Repairs can and even need to be done. The most important thing is that technology is followed. Many people argue that new house may sag, but in reality this is not the case. Shrinkage is most often insignificant, and it does not in any way affect the small deformations that occur in the house. If, for example, cracks appeared in the walls of a monolithic house, it means that they were made poorly. And it’s difficult to protect yourself from such a situation, regardless of other circumstances.”
Is it possible to solve the problems associated with home shrinkage by choosing materials that are more resistant to deformation or special technologies?
Alexander Selin:
“When the house shrinks, a crack can also compromise the integrity of the tiles. It is difficult to say to what extent technologies and materials can minimize the effects of shrinkage.
It is possible to partially protect the repair, but not from the shrinkage itself, but from minor shortcomings made in the construction of the house.
These technologies are usually associated with false walls and ceilings, with their elastic connection to load-bearing structures Houses. High-quality finishing materials, for example, finishing putties and paints, will protect against microcracks. In general, if you are counting on high-quality repairs, which will last a long time, remember the saying “the miser pays twice.” And with the shrinkage of the house - how lucky you are! »
Denis Karimov:
“To avoid cracks, I recommend using fabric-based wallpaper, suspended ceilings, and parquet flooring. If the walls are to be painted, then I glue the facade mesh (instead of the usual one for plaster), fiberglass (or non-woven fabric). Textured plaster do not do it. If the ceiling is gypsum plasterboard, then non-woven lining can be used for painting. The parquet needs to be allowed to sit in the apartment for about two weeks so that it can adapt to the climate. The tiles can crack, no one is immune from this, but this does not mean that there is no need to glue the tiles. The main thing is to prepare the base well. In fact, there are a lot of aspects and nuances in renovation, starting with the construction of the walls of the apartment and their mandatory reinforcement and ending with final cleaning and delivery of the apartment.”
Vitaly Likhov
“There are a lot of recommendations regarding materials. It is better to build walls from tongue-and-groove slabs, the geometry of which is such that the adhesive layer is minimal, which means that settlement is minimal. When constructing walls and ceilings from plasterboard, it is better to make plasterboard in 2 layers, and glue fiberglass on top. When making screeds, you should not only reinforce them with mesh, but also install a damper tape around the perimeter. When choosing finishing materials, it is necessary to take into account that the wallpaper hides some of the cracks, leaving them behind its layer.”
Konstantin Kukkoev
“As for repairs, I’ll start with the features of laying tiles. The main thing is to start with good preparation for tiles: plaster the walls well, choose the right comb (the size of the comb teeth is determined based on the size of the tile). Be careful to ensure that the thickness of the glue is not greater than what the manufacturer recommends. Otherwise, there is a high chance that the tiles may crack or fall off.
If you are painting the walls, then perhaps at the corners and on interior partitions small cracks may appear. Therefore, I recommend using smooth non-woven linen and then painting the walls. If microcracks form, they will not be visible from under the interlining, and large cracks will appear as a slight displacement.
If you use drywall, you need to seal the joints between surfaces and metal structures with a special sealing tape, which softens vibrations and prevents cracks from appearing.
As for the main points: if you are screeding a floor, you must comply with all the rules around the perimeter expansion joints, and the room itself must be divided into openings so that the ties are not connected.
Do the same with the leveler: if you use it, make sure it doesn't touch the walls, and don't forget to divide it between rooms. Please note that when installing flooring The leveled surface must meet the requirements of the manufacturer in terms of humidity parameters.
I would recommend that new homeowners look for competent builders and find out how they work before starting renovations. Ask them what technology they use to carry out the work, how they prepare it, what materials they recommend using at each stage. And based on this information, you will understand which specialist is in front of you. After all, the technologies themselves are unchanged.”
We thank all the experts who took part in the preparation of the material.
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Why is home shrinkage inevitable?
Experts call the shrinkage process of a new house natural. The piles and foundation of a new building have to withstand the pressure of the structure, which increases as residents move in. The degree of shrinkage of a house largely determines the type of foundation and the soil characteristics of the area where the house is located. On so-called soft soils, it takes longer than when building on stable, hard soils.
Responsible development companies base the choice of foundation on geodetic and geological research data. All nuances are taken into account, including soil type, groundwater level and other factors. Usually foundation shrinkage building is calculated and included in the project in advance.
A newly built house can “settle” in its place for quite a long time - from 2 to 6 years. On average, complete shaking, shrinkage and shrinkage occurs in 2-3 years. However, the walls of some buildings have been “walking” for more than 6 years.
Moreover, the heavier the structure, the more noticeable the process - thus, the shrinkage of a new house made of heavier brick is much more difficult than buildings made of lightweight cellular concrete.
When to start renovations in a new apartment?
It is quite understandable that the owners want to begin renovating the apartment immediately after purchase. Especially if the property was purchased with rough finishing. Living in such conditions is, of course, uncomfortable. But don’t rush to invest heavily in renovating your new apartment. Builders say that ideally a house with a rough finish should last at least two winters. Then you can hope that the consequences of foundation shrinkage will pass unnoticed for you.
And the actual consequences are minimal displacements of walls and ceilings. They cannot be identified by eye, but by the deformations of the finish it is quite possible.
The most common weak point is the tiles in the bathroom, which in the early years have a “bad habit” of moving away from the base and cracking. Other damage zones depend on the material and compliance with the construction technology of the new house. These are mainly cracks in the tile seams of bathrooms and kitchens, peeling wallpaper, cracking of plaster and paint on walls and ceilings, sagging door and window openings, “wavy” parquet or laminate flooring and similar “troubles.”
Features of shrinkage in a panel, brick and monolithic house
The shrinkage process occurs differently in houses made of different materials.
Shrinkage of a panel house
Panel houses are assembled from factory reinforced concrete structures. During their production, tolerances are initially laid down for assembly seams. Shrinkage of a panel house is the longest. Cracks most often form along the seams between the slabs. The period for completing the main shrinkage is 2-3 years. In practice, this stage is sometimes delayed indefinitely.
Shrinkage in monolithic frame buildings
Monolithic frame houses are a cast concrete seamless structure with brick or panel cladding. The small thickness of the walls and ceilings reduces the total mass of a monolithic house, which reduces the time for foundation shrinkage and evenly distributes the load. With strict adherence to construction technology, the period for completing the main shrinkage is about 1 year, the minimum.
Shrinkage of a brick house
Since a brick house is heavy, this always dictates special requirements for the foundation, which must withstand significant loads. As in a monolith, in a brick house there are no seams between the panels. If the technology is broken, cracks can appear not only in corners and joints, but also in a diagonal direction. Shrinkage of a brick house occurs unevenly and can last up to 5-6 years.
From shrinking the house to finishing the apartment
In general, for the first time it is better to limit yourself to democratic “cosmetic” repairs.
Well, if you do start a brand new renovation, turning to the services of professional specialists will help reduce the risks. Experienced home decorators know how to minimize the effects of home shrinkage. For example, they may recommend more elastic materials that can withstand minor changes in surface geometry: non-woven or liquid wallpaper, special plasters, vinyl tiles, suspended ceilings, etc. However, the cost of such “gutta-percha” finishing will be more expensive.
And one more “but”: no matter how reliable the materials you paid for are, an honest contractor, hand on heart, still will not vouch for the quality of finishing in the new building.
Taking into account the timing and consequences of the shrinkage of the house, the purchase of an apartment with finishing from the developer, as a rule, will also require investment in new renovations in a few years. But when the process of shrinking the house is over, it will be possible to safely use more expensive and high-quality finishing materials.
You will find the coordinates of companies offering professional services for the repair and finishing of apartments and offices in the “Construction and Repair” section of the Catalog of Construction Products and Services
Based on Internet materials
www.stroikaural.ru
Your worries are in vain.
Many so-called “experts” unknowingly spread the myth about the catastrophic consequences for repairs from shrinkage of a panel house - this is not true.
Panel and monolithic-frame houses experience slight shrinkage when owners move into their apartments.
Foundation calculations residential buildings(most often piles) is carried out for maximum static and dynamic (horizontal and vertical) loads and multiplied by the load reliability factor (according to GOST 27751-88 "Reliability building structures and reasons. Basic principles for the calculation.") This coefficient is always greater than one, sometimes reaching 1.5.
The negative consequences of shrinkage are relevant for new brick buildings.
In the apartment you bought in a panel house, there may be small cracks in the corners of the rooms (at the junction of the panels) and thin (hairline) cracks in the horizontal corners on the ceiling - the junction between the wall and the ceiling. There can be no cracks along the wall or ceiling, since each individual wall and ceiling is molded at the factory as a separate monolithic reinforced concrete panel. There are no joints between slabs or panels in one plane, so there can be no cracks in the walls or ceiling.
I've been living on the first one for about twenty years now! floor of a 22-story building and there is not even cracked wallpaper in any corner.
As for your question regarding laying tiles in the bathroom, you can safely tile the walls and not listen to the “would-be specialists” who have picked up information from the Internet and who claim the opposite.
The whole point is that in the bathrooms panel houses cracks cannot appear due to shrinkage of the house or other deformations.
In panel houses, during installation, a unified concrete sanitary cabin with separate or combined bathrooms, left or right (in relation to the sewer riser) is installed in each apartment.
Such cabins are molded at the factory in a monolithic reinforced concrete design (walls + ceiling). After the product gains strength in the steaming chamber, it is removed from the mold and a tray is welded to it from below (to the sanitary cabin), which subsequently serves as the floor of the bathroom. You probably noticed that the floor of your bathroom is 10 centimeters higher than the main floor of the apartment. This is one of the proofs that your bathroom is a separate monolithic product.
Based on the above You can safely renovate your bathroom and not be afraid of any shrinkage or cracks.
When tiling the walls in such bathrooms, additional difficulties arise because all the walls are tilted inward (they are not installed plumb). This is due to the specifics of production. In order to remove the finished reinforced concrete sun cabin from the mold, the internal molding “cans” are made conical (narrowed towards the top), so the walls of the cabin at the top are a little thicker.
The ceiling of the suncabin is also not flat in most cases, but has the shape of an envelope with a raised center (also due to the dome structure of the formwork). Concrete ceiling in the bathroom you can cover it with foam tiles, level it with plaster, or install a suspended or suspended ceiling.