Condensation in the shower screen post. Installation of a shower enclosure with a tray

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To save space, shower cabins are installed in small bathrooms. They come in different configurations, depending on which they are called a shower corner, a cabin or a hydrobox. However, all manufacturers have one sin: poor instructions. It contains a list of parts and general instructions: place the pallet, secure the walls... and everything else in the same spirit. No details. Because of this, assembling a shower cabin turns into a do-it-yourself task. Different models there are many, it is impossible to describe them all, but we will describe and demonstrate common problems and ways to solve them.

Types and types

First of all, shower cabins differ in shape: corner and straight. In our country, corner ones are more common, because they are easier to fit into small rooms.

But there can also be corners different shapes. They are more common with a rounded front part - in the form of a sector of a circle, but there are also ones with a beveled and rectangular base.

Now about the packaging itself. On this basis, shower cabins are divided into closed and open. The open ones do not have a top panel or side walls. They are in closed ones. Open shower stalls are most often referred to as “shower corners” or nooks. Its configuration can also be different - with or without a pallet.

Some enclosed shower stalls have multiple additional functions — different types jet massage, shower - regular, tropical, etc., built-in sauna or steam generator for hammam. Such multifunctional devices are correctly called “hydromassage cabins”, or simply hydroboxes.

It is clear that the more complex the “filling”, the more labor-intensive the assembly will be. But hydromassage cabins are assembled at the very beginning in the same way as a shower corner with a tray. If you understand how to assemble the basics, installing the walls and roof will be easier. The main thing, as usual, is the foundation, and the assembly of a shower cabin of any complexity begins with the installation of a shower tray and door guides.

How to assemble a shower stall - corner

Most often, it is a corner with a pallet that is purchased. Without a tray, you have to deal with the floor and drain for a long time. It’s easier to install a ready-made trough. Therefore, first of all, we will describe the installation procedure for such a shower stall. Read how to make a shower tray from tiles.

Let’s say right away that models with a tray require a headroom of at least 15 cm: at the bottom there is a siphon and water drainage hoses. So to install a cabin 215 cm high, the ceiling height must be at least 230 cm, and it will be difficult to work. If your ceilings are low, you will have to install a booth without a tray - just the walls, and make the drain in the floor.

Pallet installation

The tray in modern shower cabins is made of plastic. It is reinforced with several layers of fiberglass, which increases its strength, but it is still impossible to stand on it normally without support. The set comes with several metal pipes square section, which are assembled into a structure that supports the bottom.

But not everyone decides to install a shower stall on several pieces of iron. Some people prefer to make the base from brick or wooden beams.

Assembly of a shower cabin on a metal frame

In some models, the first step is to attach a decorative piece to the pallet. protective cover. It is simply inserted into the groove and screwed metal plates. Then the installation process continues. What's wrong with this method? How to change or repair a drain if necessary? The casing cannot be removed - it is attached from the inside. The only way is to first make the door yourself, and then put the modified panel in place.

The procedure for assembling the shower tray is as follows:

The studs are screwed into the existing sockets. Some designs have fewer nests than support beams. Then the kit includes short studs. They are simply inserted and held on by bolts, redistributing part of the load.
Nuts are screwed onto the installed studs, which will lock the metal support frame, preventing it from resting on the pan.
A frame is put on the studs with nuts, and holes are drilled in it for this purpose.
More nuts are screwed onto the protruding ends of the studs, only now they are on the other side of the pipe.
There are holes in the supporting structure; we tighten the bolts that are included in the kit. In theory, they should fall into the corresponding holes on the pallet. There is reinforcement under these holes, otherwise the screw will simply pierce the plastic.
After checking how level the frame is and adjusting if necessary, tighten all the double bolts on the studs. The result will be a fairly rigid fixation (everything was wobbly before).
Let's start assembling the legs.
Turn the pallet over. If all the legs are level and the floor is level, the tray should be level and tight.

The assembly of the shower corner is already half done. All that remains is to assemble the doors.

Assembling a pallet based on brick or foam blocks

Here everything is incomparably simpler, although it largely depends on the shape of the pallet. Most often, the base is made of brick or foam blocks. It is more convenient to work with high-density foam blocks. They have sufficient load-bearing capacity to support the required weight, but at the same time they are easy to cut with a saw and can be easily given the required shape.

First, the entire structure is folded dry, without mortar or glue for foam blocks. Just remember that the solution/glue will lift the structure a little. And this is the second advantage of foam blocks: for their installation, a layer of glue of a couple of millimeters is enough, and for bricks at least 6-8 mm is required.

You can first try on how the shower tray will look like using glue or mortar: in case you didn’t put enough somewhere. To do this, spread the solution, more or less level it with a trowel, cover it with film, and place a tray on the film. By removing it, you will absolutely see whether there is enough glue everywhere.

After adding the solution if necessary, we put the tray in place. Leveling it is a matter of technique: we take a building level, and, focusing on its readings, tap on different places. Note! You can install the shower tray on the film without removing it from the solution. In this option, dismantling without destruction is possible.

When laying down the brick base, do not forget that you need space to install the drain and pipes from it. It is also necessary to provide for the possibility of replacing the siphon. To do this, a window is made on one side to provide access to the necessary parts. It can then be closed with a decorative door or lid.

Before final installation of the pan, the drain is connected. For those who have ever installed a sink or bathtub, this is not a problem. More details about this in the next video. One point: when installing the siphon, do not forget to coat the drain hole with sealant. Of course, there is an elastic band there, but it will be more reliable with sealant.

Installing door guides

Next, the assembly of the shower cabin continues with the installation of door guides. Even if the cabin does not have side panels, you first need to assemble the guide frame for the doors, install it on the pallet, and then mark the installation locations for the fasteners. Assembling the frame means fastening the side posts and two rounded guides together. To add rigidity to the structure, fixed glass sides can be installed.

Why can't you immediately attach the door posts to the wall? Because the walls in the bathroom are rarely perfectly smooth. By attaching the racks this way, you will get skewed doors that will close/open poorly. To understand the difference, you can mark it strictly vertically, setting the side guides vertically as expected. Then collect load-bearing frame, put it in place and look at any deviations. In 99% of cases they are present, and significant ones at that.

There can be no discrepancies when assembling the shower cabin frame. There are two arcs, there are two posts. Align the grooves and holes, tighten with screws. Then install the glass sides. They are fixed with clamps. After this, do not forget to install the rollers for the shower stall. They may have different designs, but, most often, to install them you need to remove the side stoppers from the guides, drive two rollers into the profile on both sides, and put the stoppers in place.

In some models you have to not only install the rollers, but also hang the glass, otherwise you won’t be able to move it. But then it’s better to work together. It's difficult for one.

Having placed the assembled frame on the pallet and checked whether it is positioned correctly, mark the location of the fasteners with a marker. Having removed the cabin, drill holes and install dowels.

Coat the junction of the frame with the walls with sealant. You need to apply the strip generously - it’s better to wipe off the excess later. Then put the guides in place and screw them on. The remaining cracks are re-filled with sealant. Installation shower corner almost finished: all that remains is to hang the doors and install the seals.

Assembling a shower cabin: hanging the doors

If the doors have not been installed, they are hung. They start from the top. Most models have holes in the door leaf: top and bottom. These are the places where the rollers are attached. Some shower stalls have two holes, some have four. Their number depends on the design of the rollers.

They take a screw and put it on it plastic gasket(from the kit). After inserting the screw into the hole, put on the second gasket. Next: there is a thread inside the roller, you need to get a screw into it, then support the roller from the outside with your fingers and screw the screw inside. This acrobatic element is repeated with all rollers. There is no need to tighten them until all the screws are installed. Just tighten it so that the door holds and doesn’t fall.

After the doors are hung, tighten all fasteners. There is one last thing left: installing seals on the doors. They simply snap into place (press with your finger) on the side edges of the two joining halves of the door. They are attached in the same way on the other side - on racks near the walls.

For details on hanging shower doors in one of the models, see the video.

Features of installation of a hydrobox shower cabin

In closed shower stalls and hydroboxes, after installing the tray, it is necessary to assemble a panel covering the wall. It has mounting holes into which all the “gadgets” are pre-installed - nozzles, holders, soap dishes, seats, speakers, lamps, etc. The shape and size of the bottom is different for everyone, so it’s hard to make a mistake. It is advisable to coat all “mounting holes” with sealant: there will be less dripping later.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation of injectors. In addition to installing the sprayers themselves, they must be connected to each other with pieces of hose. It is put on the injector nozzles and tightened with clamps. All this is assembled according to the diagram provided in the instructions. Pay special attention to ensure that the nozzle tips are intact and the clamps are well tightened. It wouldn’t hurt to miss every mark here too. seat sealant (both under the nozzle and under the hoses).

The wall with connected accessories is placed in a special groove. The connection point is also pre-coated with sealant. Connects cold, hot water, you can check the functionality of the system.

After installing the walls, the lid is assembled. There is usually tropical shower, maybe a lamp. When installing them, you can also use a sealant - you never know where water will get in... A hose is put on the shower outlet, which is tightened with clamps. Conductors are connected to the lamp terminals, the connection point is carefully insulated, using several heat-shrinkable tubes put on in series.

The assembled cover is installed on the wall. The joint is again lubricated with sealant. While the sealant has not hardened, the assembled door frame is installed. When doors are installed depends on the model. In some cases they need to be hung before installation, in others - after. All joints are sealed.

The assembly of the hydrobox shower cabin is shown in sufficient detail in this video. There are no comments, but the sequence of actions is clear.

We hope it’s clear how to assemble a shower stall. There are a lot of models and modifications, but we tried to describe the main problem units. If you missed something, write in the comments, we will add to the article))

With frequent use of the shower, water constantly splashes and causes a lot of inconvenience in collecting it. Getting rid of old curtains or similar moisture protection devices will help special design- shower screen. Performing perfectly protective functions, it will simultaneously decorate and delimit the room.

Types of screens

A shower screen is usually sold together with a tray - this set is called a “Shower Corner”.

The choice of modern screens allows the user to effectively cope with problems water appearing on the floor while taking a shower. In addition, a screen can significantly improve the design of a room. At the first stage of selection, it is necessary to proceed from the practicality of the selected product. The screen should reliably prevent the spread of soap splashes and at the same time be convenient for cleaning.

Manufacturers offer frame, frameless and combined structures. When choosing, be sure to take into account their design features.

The screen can be installed on pallet or on the floor. A product with a tray can be equipped with a seat and is more preferable for older people.

Frame

The frame structure of the screen is made of aluminum profile and allows you to fix tempered glass or polycarbonate sheet in it. The frame structure can be single-frame or composed of several frames. A good option in case of intensive spraying of water, a screen of several sections will be installed.

The design consists of a side wall and two fixed sections located at the edges. Two movable sections serve as sliding doors. The set may consist of a combination of glass and polycarbonate. The glass enclosed in a reliable door frame will easily slide along the guide profile using special rollers.

Frameless

The frameless option is suitable for washing by people who use the shower carefully. In this version there are no aluminum frame guides. Water protection fencing is made using tempered glass (6–8 mm). Depending on the design features an option with fixed and moving parts made of thinner glass is possible.

If there is only one fixed sheet, you will have to take a shower directly in the area of the fixed panel. Manufacturers also produce screens with one leaf, the leaf of which is attached using hinges to the plane of the wall. The screen can be easily closed when taking a shower.

A noteworthy frameless option is a special double-leaf screen. The main sash of this design is fixedly attached to the wall. The movable blade is attached to the fixed one using special hinges and can move up to 360°. When completely closed, it turns out to be a kind of shower stall.

Standard sizes

As a rule, screens of the following sizes are available for sale:

80x80 cm;
80x100 cm;
90x90 cm;
100×100 cm;
110x85 cm;
120x85 cm;
150x90 cm.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of screens various designs create certain conveniences for use. Panels arranged in a special way do not allow moisture to get on the floor, decorative elements, mirrors and polished furniture.

Advantages

High degree of moisture protection of floors and furniture;
Ease of cleaning;
Use of lightweight aesthetic materials;
Resistant to detergents;
Easy to install in any room.

Flaws

The functionality and beauty of screens does not relieve them of some disadvantages:

Certain product options are critical to water stains and leave marks on them. If cleaning is not done on time, cloudiness may appear on the surface of the panels. Water quality may deteriorate appearance. Prolonged exposure to moisture affects the protective functions of the material. Glass, plastic and polystyrene sometimes require careful treatment with special products.
The use of roller structures requires careful operation.
The option with hinges requires free space for the sliding door to open, although in some cases it is possible to make the door open into the shower enclosure.

Installation features

Each type of screen will need competent and reliable installation in a certain room. All load-bearing stiffeners are made of aluminum profiles and are securely attached to the walls. At self-installation you shouldn't skimp. The use of powerful screws, bolts and high-quality dowels will eliminate the occurrence of unexpected problems during intensive use.

This is especially true for the upper and lower metal guides. When choosing such structures, pay attention to the methods of fastening the upper and lower edges. The presence of stainless steel brackets equipped with special holders will ensure reliable fixation of heavy glass panels.

Sliding, opening and folding screens create significant ease of use. Each user should carefully consider their preferred option. Polycarbonate or glass partitions will add a certain chic to the room. Clear, tinted, matte or patterned options will affect the price of the product.

Installation video

A video on how to install a shower enclosure whose door opens inward due to lack of space:

Conclusion

Successful selection of the model you like should be associated not only with interior decoration. A shower screen is not a luxury item, although it never hurts to be stylish. Despite the unpretentiousness of the structures, you should pay attention to the presence of special coatings on the panels, which will greatly facilitate cleaning and will repel moisture.

Unfortunately, not everyone can boast of a large, spacious bathroom; for some, this is a problem, while for others, this option is their favorite. In any case, a shower corner is perfect option bathroom arrangement. Even if you have a large bathroom, a shower corner will not spoil the room in any way, but, on the contrary, will decorate it. However, this is a matter of tastes and principles, because some people find it more convenient to take a bath, while others prefer to wash in the shower. Do not confuse a shower stall with a shower corner, because these are slightly different things. The shower stall differs from the corner in the absence ceiling panels And rear walls. In this article we will talk about the shower corner.

If you are determined to install a shower enclosure in your bathroom, but don’t know how to do it correctly this work, then be attentive to the tips that will be in this article, and then you can easily install the shower on your own. You will also learn how to choose a shower enclosure and what you need to pay attention to when purchasing.

Benefits of a shower enclosure

Such a device as a shower corner has the following advantages:

Choosing a shower enclosure with a tray

Shower enclosures differ in shape, size and material from which it is made. Also decide in which corner of the bathroom it will be installed. It is not necessary to buy a cabin and a pallet as a set; as a rule, construction stores should have big choice both pallets and booths, which can be easily combined. It is worth considering the fact that when buying two parts different manufacturers, certain difficulties may arise due to the difference in size. Therefore, we select only those parts that fit each other perfectly.

Advice! Buy the corner and tray from the same store, this will make it easier for you to select and combine the two parts together.

Manufacturers produce the following types of pallets:

The latter version of pallets is very popular, and all because it has many advantages, such as: average weight, durability and relatively low price. Such a platform can be rectangular, round or square shape. Particular attention should be paid to the doors, because if they come into contact with the wall when opening, they may be damaged or even break. Therefore, take accurate measurements before purchasing. In appearance, glass doors also have slight differences, since they can be not only matte or transparent, but also with quite different and at the same time attractive texture and coloring. Even the handles on shower enclosure doors can be very different from each other.

Materials and equipment

In order to install the corner with your own hands, you will need the following components:

Installation of a shower enclosure with a tray

The first step is to install the pallet, however, due to the fact that most pallets do not come complete with mounting devices, you will have to make them yourself. To assemble such a frame, iron corners and a pipe with a diameter of 30-40 mm are most often used. You will have to cut and weld these parts together. There is another option for mounting the pallet - this is installation on bricks and cement-sand mortar. The installed pallet should not wobble on its base, it should fit snugly to the base.

Let's start installing the drainage system. The process of installing the siphon to the base occurs even before control unit pallet to the frame. You should think in advance about how the siphon will be repaired in the future, because sooner or later it may become clogged. Install a small ventilation window so you can make repairs later. After installing the siphon, check whether it is leaking water. To do this, you need to fill the pan with several liters of water and inspect the drainage system. Also pay attention to ensuring that there is good contact between the tiles and the pallet, and that all cracks are sealed with sealant.

Now you can begin installing the panels. First of all, you need to assemble the iron frame of the cabin. Next, you need to secure the bottom guide; this can be done using sealant. How to install vertical racks? To do this you need to use a plumb line and level, this way you can make exact angle tilt At the fastening points, use a marker to draw the points where you will drill the hole for the dowels. Using a drill and a special tile bit, make holes in the wall.

Advice! When drilling tiles with a drill or hammer drill, do not use the hammer, otherwise the tile will burst and fly off the wall.

Before you attach the studs to the wall surface, lubricate them well inner side sealant, thanks to this you will achieve better adhesion. Next, using self-tapping screws, secure the vertical guide post. After all the above operations, you can safely begin installing the glass. However, when doing this work, be extremely careful, as you can easily injure yourself or damage the glass. The glass must get into all the mechanisms manufactured by the factory, only after that it can function normally. However, in order for the doors to close normally without coming into contact with other elements of the shower enclosure, they must be adjusted. This procedure is carried out according to the instructions supplied with the corner.

It is almost impossible to take a shower or bath without drops and splashes of water flying in all directions, so the bathroom is often damp and damp. The result is mold and mildew, the cost of treating the bathroom, or even a complete replacement of the finish. But in order to reduce the amount of moisture remaining in the room after hygiene procedures, it is enough to simply install a structure there, which is called a bath screen, partition or protective screen.

In modern stores they are sold in a large assortment, that is, choosing a suitable screen will not be difficult at all, but before purchasing it will be useful to find out about the features and characteristics of different products.

Conventional curtains, which until recently were very popular among buyers, are gradually becoming a thing of the past. The only advantage is their low cost, but otherwise they are significantly inferior to screens. Benefits of bathroom screens include:

the walls and floor of the room are well protected from water - literally not a single drop will seep through such a structure;
do not require special care or regular cleaning;
unlike conventional curtains, they do not contribute to the development of pathogenic microorganisms and fungal spores;
a variety of designs, shapes and materials makes it possible to choose a screen that is optimally suited to the interior of a particular bathroom;
Using screens is much more convenient than regular curtains, since they do not stick to the body and do not open due to drafts;
structures made of glass and plastic are much more durable and stronger than any oilcloth or rubberized fabric;
Almost all screens are installed very simply, so you can easily handle the installation yourself.

Accordingly, any bathroom can be equipped with a screen, regardless of its interior. And in order to choose the right design, you need to know about operational features and varieties of screens for bathrooms.

Types of screens for bathrooms

All protective partitions for bathrooms can be divided according to two main criteria: the method of opening the doors, design features and material of manufacture.

bathroom screen

Door opening method

IN in this case there are three options: screens with sliding and swing doors, as well as accordion screens. Sliding structures are in greatest demand, as they are suitable for any bathrooms, including small ones, as well as for straight and semicircular bathtubs, which are installed in most modern apartments and houses.

Finally, “accordions” are most often used in bathrooms equipped with round or oval bathtubs. In principle, they can be installed in any room, but in conditions limited space they will still “eat up” part of the free space. Another significant drawback of “accordions” is that after some time the numerous places where structural elements are attached to each other begin to wear out and break.

Design features

Based on their design features, protective partitions can be framed, frameless or combined.

Frame screens. The products consist of a supporting frame and several sections (usually from 2 to 6), one of which is a sash that moves to the side. The structure is installed on the side racks and fixed to the sides of the bathtub using guides.
Frameless screens. Screens of this type also consist of several parts, but do not have a frame. They are usually made from tempered glass with rounded corners: stationary sections made of thick, movable sections made of thin.
Combined screens. They combine both of the above types of structures - most often one of the parts is only partially fixed to the profile, which makes it possible to open and close it.

Material of manufacture

Modern bathroom screens are made of glass or plastic (polycarbonate), and each material has its own advantages and disadvantages.

If we talk about the design of screens, then there will be no problems with the choice. Designs can be completely transparent, tinted, matte or patterned, covering the bathtub partially or completely, creating the appearance of a shower stall.

What should you consider when choosing a screen?

To choose the right screen for the bathroom, you should consider a number of important nuances and features different types designs.

One of the most important aspects of the reliability and durability of the screen is correct installation, which does not require special skills or knowledge, but requires accuracy, precision and careful adherence to instructions.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a sliding glass screen

Installing sliding screens may have some distinctive features, but in general it follows the same principle. First you need to prepare the tools necessary for work:

fastening elements (bolts, dowels);
drill or hammer drill;
silicone sealant and a special gun;
screwdriver;
building level;
roulette;
masking tape.

Included sliding partition usually includes guide profiles, a rail that secures the structure, glass sections, fittings, and special gaskets that protect elements from moisture.

Step 1. First you need to attach the profile that fixes the screen to the wall. You need to remove the rail from it, adjust its position using a level and mark the installation points on the surface.

Step 2. Drill holes at the marked points. If the walls in the bathroom are tiled, it is better to use special drills for tiles. Painting tape will prevent the drill bit from sliding across the surface of the tile. To make the fixation as strong as possible, it is recommended to make more than two holes into which dowels will need to be inserted.

Step 3. Apply silicone sealant to the back of the profile and attach it to the wall with screws.

Step 4. Fix the glass on the installed profile, tighten the fasteners, but not too tightly so as not to block the glass panel completely.

Step 5. The remaining gap is necessary for installing the seal - it is put on bottom part glass, after which the panel can be completely fixed by tightening the screws until they stop.

Step 6. Place special insulating caps on the fasteners.

The gaps that remain between the screen elements and the wall should be filled with silicone sealant. It takes about a day for the composition to harden, that is, during this period it is better not to use the bathroom.

Video - Installing a screen in the bathroom with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for installing a framed plastic screen

Another common option for a bath screen is plastic structures on an aluminum frame. The assembly of such screens is also quite simple task– to complete it you will need the same tools as in the previous case, but the algorithm for performing the work looks different.

Step 1. Assemble the main part of the screen, that is, attach the fixed elements to the horizontal ones using special screws, which usually come with the screen.

Step 2. Sliding door insert into top part frame profile, align it with the lower part and snap the bearing into place.

Step 3. Mark places in the walls for attaching vertical guides and drill holes.

Step 4. Attach the vertical guides to the screen frame.

Step 5. All places where the structure will adjoin the walls must be treated with silicone sealant.

Step 6. Place the screen in place and secure it with fasteners, put special pads on them.

After the sealant has dried, attach the handle to the screen and carefully cut protective film around the perimeter and remove it.

Screen care

Caring for such structures is a simple process, but it requires compliance with a number of rules, since the appearance and service life of the screens depends on this.

After hygiene procedures, it is advisable to leave the door open so that moisture does not accumulate behind the screen.
Glass products can be washed with any cleaning agents, and in the case of plastic, you should choose a non-aggressive one. household chemicals without abrasive particles, otherwise the surface will quickly be scratched and become cloudy.
If a sliding screen is installed in the bathroom, its mechanism needs to be checked and lubricated from time to time.
The seals that protect the edges of structures from moisture should also be regularly inspected for mold and mildew, and replaced if necessary.

To install a shower stall yourself, you need to ensure that you have certain tools and aids. These include a level, drill, tape measure, construction gun and silicone mastic.

How to install a shower stall: steps

First of all, you should install shower tray. To do this, it is necessary to strictly observe established sequence actions.

Place the assembled drainage elements into the hole in the tray designed for this purpose.

Secure a gasket of waterproof material under the pan and tighten the assembled drain system very tightly.

Install pre-prepared sewer pipes. The sewer hole must be located directly under the drain. Before starting work, it is recommended to first take all necessary measurements. This will speed up the process and avoid mistakes.

Align the pallet so that it is in a horizontal position. To obtain an accurate result, you need to correctly adjust the legs placed on it. If it is necessary to create a slope to drain the water, the tray can be slightly raised.

A seam is formed between the pallet and the tile. Silicone mastic will ensure its tightness. It should be carefully applied between surfaces using a construction gun.

Screen installation

After the shower stall, or rather its tray, is installed, you can begin installing the screen. It should be placed level. Her correct installation occurs in several stages.

The wall profile must be placed on the edge of the pallet. A level should be used in the process. You will need to make several marks on the tile at the drilling locations.

Using a drill, carefully make holes and place dowels in them. You should avoid using the shock function of the device, as this can cause significant damage to the ceramic coating.
Screw the profile to the wall after the depth of the hole fully matches the length of the dowels used.
Place the part of the screen that is stationary in the profile. Hang the shower doors, adjust their position and securely fasten them.

By using silicone sealant create seams connecting different parts of the structure.

The seal placed on the doors must fit tightly to the tray. This will ensure proper tightness during further use of the shower cabin.

Installation of shower stalls (video):

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