How to lay laminate around a heating pipe. How to cut laminate to fit a pipe

Laminate is a modern flooring material that appeared on Russian market not very long ago. It is produced in the form of oblong panels that imitate various types of wood. Thanks to the wide selection color range, excellent appearance, strength, durability, low price, it quickly gained popularity. It's high quality, comfortable and modern covering also has very simple technology styling yourself.

In addition to colors and sizes, this material differs by class. High class laminate can stay in contact with water longer and is less erased when passing through large quantity people and is more resistant to scratches and impacts. Therefore, this laminate is used in industrial premises, or in residential premises where there is a high probability of contact with water - kitchens, toilets, as well as in rooms where there is a lot of foot traffic - corridors and hallways. In these rooms, laminate of a higher class is used, for example, class 31-32.

Surface preparation and laminate installation options.

Laminate flooring can be installed on almost any surface. The basic rule that must be followed is that the surface must be made absolutely flat. It is possible to allow unevenness of no more than 2-3 mm per 1 meter of floor surface.

When the laminate is placed on an insufficiently leveled surface, in the very first months this will cause swelling, breakage of locks, and the appearance of cracks between the panels of the laminated board.

If the laminated board is laid on a concrete floor, then leveling must be carried out. To do this, you can use self-leveling floors, concrete screed or dry screed.

If the laminate will be laid on wooden base, then when leveling you can use sheets of plywood. You also need to know that when laying on a concrete floor, a waterproofing film is first laid down. If this is not done, moisture from the concrete will be absorbed and accumulated in the laminated board, and this will have a detrimental effect on the quality of the floor. For waterproofing, polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.2 mm is most often used.

When laying laminate, on any surface, you need to additionally lay a special one, which will reduce noise when walking and falling objects, and will also act as a shock absorber.

As a substrate, foamed polypropylene and natural cork substrates are most often used. Any of these materials perfectly perform their main functions - sound insulation and shock absorption.

There are several options for laying laminate flooring. They differ in the direction of the panels:

• perpendicular to the incidence of light;
• towards the light source (window);
• diagonally;

and according to the method of connecting floors in adjacent rooms:

• using thresholds;
• without thresholds.

When choosing a installation option, you need to take into account the size and shape of the room. When laying in small rooms, choose a mounting method along the incidence of light rays. At the same time, the room will increase in size, stretch out, and the seams between the panels will be less noticeable.

When laying laminate parallel to the incident light, the room will look wider, which is why it is often laid this way in corridors and other narrow rooms.

Laying diagonally will give any room an original and unusual look, but more often this method is used in complex rooms with irregular shapes.

The non-threshold method is used in small spaces, with an area of ​​no more than 60 sq. m. In large rooms and rooms with complex geometry, it is necessary to use special thresholds to avoid deformation of the surface of the laid floor.

How to calculate the quantities of laminate and related materials.

It is not difficult to calculate the amount of materials that we will use for installation. You must know the area of ​​the room and take into account that during installation you will have to cut the material to size, so with the usual option you need to add 5-7% to the calculated amount of material, with diagonal laying you need to add up to 10-12%. If it is difficult for you to calculate the required amount of material, you can contact your sales consultant for help.

Materials and tools used when laying laminate flooring.

Before you start, you will need to purchase the following materials:

1. Directly selected laminate.
2. (foamed polypropylene or natural cork).
3. Polyethylene film for waterproofing.
4. Wedges to provide technological clearances.

Also, before starting work, you need to prepare the following tools:

1. Roulette.
2. Fine-toothed hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
3. A simple pencil.
4. Hammer.
5. Wooden beam.
6. Construction corner.
7. Special knife.
8. Scotch.
9. Nylon or nylon cord.

Preparing the floor surface.

After purchase and delivery of all necessary materials and tools, unpack them in the room where installation will be carried out. Let all the materials lie in this room for several days before starting work. During this time, the temperature and humidity of the laminate will stabilize and come into balance with the temperature and humidity in the room. This will eliminate the possibility of deformation of the material after installation.

Installation is carried out on a clean surface. Therefore, before starting work, the rooms need to be swept, or even better if you collect the debris using a vacuum cleaner.

When installing on a concrete floor, first cover it with plastic film for waterproofing. We lay the film strips on top of each other by 10-15 cm, and glue the film joints with tape.

Along the perimeter of the room we make an overlap of film on the walls of 5-7 cm; it is better to lay the strips of film perpendicular to the laminate panels. Then we lay the backing.

Unlike waterproofing, parts of the substrate are laid joint to joint; there is no need to install it on the walls. To avoid displacement of parts of the substrate, the joints are glued with tape.

It is allowed to lay the underlay under the laminate gradually, first on the area of ​​the floor where the laying will be carried out and add the underlay gradually, moving forward in the process of work. This way we will keep the substrate intact and clean.

Laying laminate.

The simplest and most commonly used method of installing laminate flooring is “floating” when the laminate is not fixed to the floor. With this installation option, it is imperative to leave gaps between the walls and the laminate panels.

The minimum gap should be at least 7 mm, the optimal gap is 14-15 mm. Failure to comply with this rule can lead to deformation of the laminate, because when the temperature in the room increases, the laminate will expand and rest against the wall.

This rule must also be followed doorways, heating pipes and wall projections. To create a gap, use special wedges, purchased in a store or made independently.

When you start laying laminate flooring, you also need to take into account that panel locks come in two types: Click type locks and Lock type locks.

Let's look at the procedure for laying laminate flooring with Click type locks.

We begin laying the laminate in the corner near the window, and place the first panel there. We place wedges between the wall and the panel to create a gap, and do the same at the end of the panel.

During further installation, we continue to install wedges around the entire perimeter of the room. There are grooves at the ends of the panels, so we bring the second panel to the first at an angle, without distortions, insert it tightly into the already laid panel and slowly lower it. If everything is done correctly, you should hear a characteristic click.

In order to reduce the gaps between the panels, we place a wooden block at the end and lightly tap it with a hammer, thus adjusting the panels to each other.

We continue to lay the panels of the first row in this way until we reach the opposite wall. Last panel, if necessary, cut to the required size; to do this, we make markings using a tape measure, a pencil and a construction corner. Cut using an electric jigsaw. We do not throw away the cut part; it may be useful for further installation.

Further laying of the laminate is carried out in a checkerboard pattern. Therefore, the cut part of the panel is laid first in the second row, if its length is at least 40 cm, or the whole laminate panel is cut in half.

When laying the second and subsequent rows, it should be taken into account that the scheme assumes a displacement of the joint between the panels by approximately 40 cm.

We assemble the second row similarly to the first in length, then we bring the full row all the way to the first at an angle of 45 degrees and engage the lock along the entire length. After this, smoothly lower the panels along their entire length until they click; if the row is long, it is better to perform this operation with an assistant. Observing the checkerboard order of laying the laminate panels, we continue to lay the next rows.

With Lock type locks

When laying panels with Lock type locks, all basic actions are performed in the same way. Only when attaching the panels to each other are they tapped with a hammer on a wooden block for better adhesion.

How to lay laminate flooring diagonally.

Laying laminate flooring diagonally is also quite simple. This installation option visually increases the area of ​​the room, so it is often used when installing in small rooms and rooms of complex architecture.

This option has one significant drawback - material consumption increases significantly. This must be taken into account when you buy laminate, underlay, waterproofing and add 10-12% to the area of ​​the room.

We prepare the surface of the room in the same way as usual laying laminate flooring: level the surface, cover it with waterproofing film if necessary, and spread the underlay.

There are two ways to lay laminate flooring diagonally: starting laying from the corner of the room and starting laying from the middle of the room. Let's consider both options.

When laying from the corner of the room, choose the corner near the window. In this case, we start with one solid panel, cut on both sides to the required angle, most often 45 degrees. We put it in a corner, not forgetting to put wedges for thermal gaps between the wall and the panel.

In the second row, we lay 2 laminate boards so that the joint between the panels is located in the middle of the first panel, and cut the edges near the wall at an angle of 45 degrees.

In the third row, we first place whole panels, making sure that the connection between the panels is in the middle of the panel of the previous row (observe a checkerboard order), then we measure the distance to the walls on both sides, and cut the outer panels at an angle of 45 degrees. We put them in a row and then snap the whole row together. Then we continue to lay the laminate, observing these principles, until we reach the opposite corner.

When laying panels from the middle of the room, we pull two threads or fishing lines from opposite corners of the room. The intersection of the fishing line will be the middle of the room.

We lay the first strip of laminate along one of the stretched lines. We cut the outer panels at an angle of 45 degrees and do not forget to leave technological gaps. We created two work areas on either side of the first row. We continue to lay the laminate alternately on one side of the central row, then on the other, moving from the center to the corners of the room.

What to do if heating pipes are in the way.

Very often, when laying laminate flooring, we may encounter an obstacle in the form of heating pipes coming out of the floor. A cardboard or paper template will help us cope with this situation. In this case, you need to try to make the template as accurate and correct as possible. After this, we transfer the template to the laminated board and mark the location of the hole. We cut a hole for the pipe using a special drill. Then we cut it off electric jigsaw part of the board along the width, focusing on the middle of the hole for the pipes. As a result, we get two parts of the panel.

We install the first part between the wall and the pipe, and lay the second part away from the pipe, like regular panel laminate To fasten both parts together, apply glue to the ends of the parts and squeeze them together.

We make a hole near the pipe, about 5 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe. You can then close the hole near the pipes using special plastic inserts.

How to get around protrusions in the wall.

Very often the walls in rooms have protrusions and unevenness. You can approach this problem in a similar way and use a paper template, which is then transferred to a laminated board.

If you trust yourself, you can make markings according to the right sizes directly on the laminate board. Cut it out the required form using an electric jigsaw.

If the wall overhang or column is sheathed in drywall or plastic, we first trim the bottom of the drywall or plastic. Then we place the end part of the panel under the drywall. To do this, you need to correct the lock on the adjacent panel: carefully trim the protruding edge on the lower part of the end.

It is necessary to take into account that the strength of the connection between the panels will suffer, so it is better to coat the joints with glue and press firmly.

In rooms with a large area, and when moving from one room to another, it may be necessary to make expansion joints. To do this, we use special metal thresholds or profiles.

Upon completion of laying the laminate, we remove the wedges that were inserted in order to create thermal gaps, cut off the edges of the backing that extends onto the wall, and fasten the baseboards to a height of no more than two centimeters. It is worth remembering that skirting boards are attached to the wall, not to the floor.

So, knowing and following these simple rules, you can successfully install laminate flooring yourself. We wish you good luck!

The cost of laying laminate flooring is 30-60% of the cost of the laminate flooring itself. flooring. You can save this money by installing laminate flooring yourself. The article will discuss the procedure for carrying out work, as well as common problems and their solutions.

Preparing the floor for laminate

Preparing the floor for laminate one of the most important stages styling The service life of the floor covering directly depends on quality preparation. Unevenness does not allow the floor covering to be laid evenly and affects strong influence on the castle connection, which is its weak point. When walking on laminate flooring, the panels bend and the interlocking joint gradually diverges, causing the flooring to become unusable.

The basic requirements for the floor surface are as follows: the floor must be dry and level, and local unevenness must not exceed 2 mm per 2 meters in length.

You can check whether preparation is necessary before laying the laminate in the following way. Place a long level or drywall profile on the floor; if it is in contact with the floor along its entire length, the floor meets the requirements; if there is a gap of more than 2-3 mm, then appropriate preparation must be carried out before laying the laminate. A similar check must be carried out in several places in the room.

Concrete floor preparation

A concrete floor may have the following defects: residual moisture, dust, bumps and depressions. All these defects are unacceptable and must be preparatory work.

Laminate does not tolerate well high humidity. If a concrete floor has been poured recently, it has a high percentage of residual moisture. In this case, the preparation measures will include thorough drying of the room.

An unstable floor surface that generates dust does not affect installation, but does affect operation. Dust from the concrete floor, when walking on the laminate, penetrates into the room, settles on the furniture, and causes a lot of trouble, even several years after the renovation. In this case, preparing the floor before laying involves treating it with a primer deep penetration, in order to bind particles on the surface and prevent them from forming dust.

Another common defect in concrete floors are bumps. They are unacceptable, as they will bend the laminate panels and, as a result, cause excess load on the lock. Preparation in in this case consists of removing all bumps exceeding the permissible size. This is done using a chisel or grinder with a diamond blade.

A less common defect is dimples. Small depressions will not affect the operation of the floor covering, large ones will lead to the panels playing when walking, which is extremely undesirable. Therefore, it is advisable to fill the depressions with cement-sand mortar. You can use ready-made dry mixtures to repair concrete floors.

Preparing a Wooden Floor

Wood floors also require preparation before laminate flooring is installed. They often have two drawbacks: loose boards and loose joists. This leads to creaking and play of the floors. This type of wooden floor is not suitable for laying laminate flooring.

Fig.1.

You can prepare a wooden floor using plywood. In most cases, as preparation it will be enough to lay a layer of plywood 10 mm thick on top of the boards and secure it well with self-tapping screws. Plywood will strengthen the floor and make it level.

Laminate laying direction

The direction in which the laminate is laid affects appearance premises and flooring. Traditionally, it is laid either along the walls or diagonally. Depending on the direction of installation, you can visually expand or narrow the room.

The laying direction must match the orientation sunlight from the window. Otherwise, all the joints of the laminate panels will be clearly visible, and visually the floor covering will not be monolithic, but consisting of separate strips.

Fig.2.

If it is necessary to visually expand the room due to the direction of laying, then you need to lay the laminate diagonally, but at the same time, the orientation of the incidence of sunlight from the window should coincide with the laying line.

So if we have an elongated room with a window along a wide wall, then the laminate should be laid perpendicular to the window. If the window is located on narrow wall, then installation should be carried out diagonally, in the direction of incidence of sunlight. If you want to achieve the effect of a wooden floor with the help of flooring and plan to lay laminate with a chamfer, you can safely lay it parallel to the window. Thus, the incident light from the window will only improve the appearance of the floor.

Laminate laying technology

The laminate laying technology stipulates a number of rules that must be followed. By following the installation technology, assembling the flooring will not create any difficulties, and the laminate itself will serve for many years.

You cannot lay laminate flooring immediately after purchase. According to the technology for assembling the floor, you should wait 1–2 days for the temperature of the laminate to become equal to the temperature of the room. This feature of the technology is due to the fact that the panels have different sizes depending on the temperature. If the temperature of the panels and the room is different, then after the flooring, cracks or swelling may form at the junction of the panels.

A special feature of the laminate flooring technology is the installation of a vapor barrier for the floor. Vapor barrier is performed using polyethylene film up to 0.2 mm thick. This step is required for concrete floors and desirable for wood floors. This technological operation will not require much effort, but will protect the laminate from excess moisture in the base and dust residues.

It is advisable to use a thick film, however, the technology allows the use of thin films, and as practice shows, they also cope well with their functions. The film should be laid with an overlap of approximately 20 cm. All joints of the film should be taped with tape to seal and fix the film strips to each other.

Second technological stage– laying the underlayment under the laminate. The backing is laid close to the wall. All joints are taped to secure the sheets together.

The technology for laying the substrate may be different. The substrate can be laid either all at once or in parts. It is advisable to lay in parts when you have to cut laminate panels in the room where the flooring is being done. In this case, it is difficult to prevent damage or contamination of the substrate. It is also convenient to lay the rolled underlay in parts as you assemble the floor. In all other cases, it is advisable to lay the entire substrate at once.

Fig.3.

The laying technology provides for a certain order and orientation of the boards during floor assembly. Laying the laminate begins from the wall with the assembly of the first strip. In this case, the panels are laid with the lock towards themselves. The panels are connected along the narrow end to form the first strip.

The method of connecting the panels also has a new technology, which ensures reliable adhesion of the panels to each other. To connect the panels, the lock is engaged at an angle of 20 - 30 degrees and snapped into place. It is important to control the protrusion of one panel over another. It's easy to do. You need to run your finger along the wide end where the lock is located. If there is a step, then the connection is bad. If the step cannot be felt, the connection is assembled according to technology.

The relative position of the laminate rows is also determined by the laying technology. The floor covering is assembled into the floor panels. This technology feature provides reliable connection panels between each other and high strength of the floor covering.

When assembling the floor, one effective technological technique is used, which significantly reduces the consumption of laminate. If not a whole number of panels fit in one strip, then the last board is sawn off and the next row begins with it.

One of the most important technological features of laying laminate flooring is the gap of 5-10 mm between the wall and the floor covering. It is needed to compensate for the thermal expansion of the laminate. The gap is formed using spacer wedges.

Fig.4.

Methods for laying laminate

There are two main ways to lay laminate flooring: traditional and strip-laying. The first requires the use of a special tool, but installation can be done alone. The second one does not require special tools, but it is very difficult to assemble the flooring alone.

The first method is one panel at a time

The peculiarity of this method is that the flooring is assembled one board at a time. Along the wide end, the lock is engaged at an angle of 20 - 30 degrees and snaps into place. At the narrow end, the lock is closed at a right angle using a clamp and a hammer. This is a traditional method, it is recommended by all laminate manufacturers.

The order of assembling the row is as follows:

• The first panel is connected along the wide end to the previous row, and a wedge is installed between the narrow end and the wall.
• The second panel is installed next to the first and connected to the previous row in a similar way. At this stage, the panels are not connected at the narrow end.
• A clamp or a special block is installed on the narrow end of the second panel. By hitting a clamp with a hammer, the first and second panels are connected along the narrow end.
• All other laminate panels are connected in a similar way.

Fig.5.

The last panel in a row can only be installed using a clamp.

Fig.6.

The second method is laying in whole strips

The essence of this method is that the laminate strips are first assembled in the same way as the first row is assembled. After that, the assembled strip is brought to the previous strip, the lock is engaged at an angle of 20 - 30 degrees and latched.

Fig.7.

It is important to ensure that the locks fit well and that there are no cracks between the panels. If a crack is detected, a piece of laminate is inserted into the panel lock and the required panel is corrected with a hammer blow.

Laying laminate flooring in a doorway

It is very difficult to install laminate flooring tightly in a doorway. And often it looks like the photo below. This is wrong and not aesthetically pleasing.

Fig.8.

The secret to high-quality laminate installation is that the laminate is not laid close to the doorway, but under it. This can be done in two ways, either install the door after laying the laminate, or file the door frame.

Fig.9.

To cut the door frame you will need a fine-tooth saw and a strip of laminate.

You can proceed further in two ways. You can lay a laminate board and, leaning on it, file the doorway. Another option is to use a laminate board to mark the door frame, then remove the board and make a cut.

The junction of the laminate with another incomplete covering in the doorway is closed using a threshold. Thresholds can be metal or laminated fiberboard.

Fig. 10.

There are single-level and multi-level thresholds. For the right choice it is necessary to measure the difference between the coatings. If the difference is insignificant, then you can use a single-level threshold; if it is more than 0.5-1 cm, then you need to use a multi-level one.

Laying laminate around heating pipes

To bypass the heating pipes, mark the location of the pipes on the outermost strip. Use a drill to make holes. The diameter of the drill should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the pipes.

Fig. 11.

Along the line passing through the centers of the holes, the panel is cut into two parts. Both parts are laid separately and adjusted to each other.

The gap between the pipe and the laminate can be filled with a special elastic mastic. Such mastics are sold together with laminate.

Lay laminate flooring around pipes and under doors

Lay laminate flooring around pipes and under doors. and also under other obstacles, in fact, there are no particular difficulties - you just need to know a few important points. These are the ones we will talk about here.

Bypassing the pipe with laminate is carried out as follows: a) it is necessary to take measurements and set marks; b) cut a hole in the corresponding shield required diameter, taking into account that there should be a distance of 10 mm between the pipe and the edge of the laminate.

The laminate around corners, steps, thresholds, ramps and other similar elements is subject to the same rule - the distance between them and the edge of the laminate should be 10 mm.

Where does this distance come from? The fact is that 10 mm. - this is the minimum width of the expansion joint, which is necessary to ensure free movement of the coating that occurs due to temperature and other deformation (laminated floors continuously “breathe”). If expansion joints If it doesn’t, the shields may swell. so we need to take this seriously. Although laminate is a “construction set for adults” and “wallpaper for the floor,” its flooring is still not toys, but work that must be treated as such.

The laminate under the doors is laid as follows: during the installation process, or rather, even before it, the doors are removed from their hinges and removed from the room. But before that, you need to calculate whether the door will close after you lay the floors. To do this, add up the thickness of the substrate and the thickness of the laminate and subtract all this from the distance from concrete base floor to the edge of the door. If less than 3 mm remains. (without taking into account the aluminum threshold), then the door will have to be filed down. If you also need a threshold, then there should be at least 8 mm. (another thing is that the threshold may be located behind the door.

The flooring of the outermost row is carried out in the same way as the rest of the rows, only it will most likely have to be sawed along, that is, all of its panels will have to be sawed. This is not as difficult as it might seem: you simply measure the distance between the edge of the penultimate row and the wall, subtract the same 10 mm. sawing, joining, laying. The process is described in full (with photos and videos) in the general material on laying laminate flooring.

How to lay laminate flooring if a pipe running across the room is in the way? Yes, very simple. You just need to take the panel, place it on the previous one and click it with a sharp force (watch the video). True, the panel should not be too short so that it can be bent:

© 2012 Finishing and general construction works

Based on materials from the site: http://silite.spb.ru

Many would not mind learning how to lay laminate flooring, because this skill will allow you to do modern renovation and at the same time save on the services of masters.

You will have to master, not only how to lay laminate flooring correctly, but also how to carry out preparatory work. Between the cleaned and primed base, as well as the future floor, it is necessary to lay a backing made of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene film. One of the ways to lay a laminated coating is the following method: armed with PVC glue, treat the edges of the panels with it.

How to put laminate under a pipe?

There is no need to glue laminate flooring to the floor.

Listen to good advice How to lay laminate correctly: stretch a straight rope along the walls, which will allow you to avoid curvature in your work. When you finish laying one row, the next row must begin with the plank that remains from the previous stage. Please note that the panel length must be 400 millimeters or more. If the board is shorter, cut the new panel in half.

Remember that the row of laminate in contact with the wall must have a gap of 5 mm with it. If there are heating pipes in the room, cut a hole in the board 10 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe itself. Mask the cut of the hole with special flaps. When the laminate is laid, remove the spacer wedges and install a skirting board at least 1 cm wide.

How to lay laminate flooring correctly. Video lesson

25.07.2013

When laying laminate flooring, be sure to leave a gap. That is, there should be such a gap between all objects. First of all, the boards do not touch the walls. But they should not touch door frames, heating pipes and should not rest against other floor coverings. For example, in tiles.

A floor made from laminate is called a floating floor.

It is not attached to the base and is not placed in a spacer for one reason - laminate, like natural wood, changes its size depending on the humidity in the room. This is why they leave a gap: in anticipation of possible changes.

This gap is most noticeable along the walls. But there it is covered with a plinth. A modern plinth is nailed to the wall. Previously, it was nailed to the floor, but now they don’t do that; the floor must be “floating.” The gap between different floor coverings is closed with standard thresholds. They are made of aluminum and painted to match the color of the laminate. But there are still places that need to be closed.

This refers to holes for heating pipes. The pipes themselves can be hidden in the screed, but the place where they exit needs to be arranged somehow. It is impossible to lay the laminate closely (given the need for a gap), and it is not possible. The hole is difficult to mark, and if you cut it end to end, the board will not be able to be inserted into the lock; it will simply rest against the pipe. According to the standard, the gap should be 8-10mm, but it can be less - 3-5mm. So far not a single board has been damaged.

The easiest way is to cover the hole with a decorative round cover. But they are not so easy to buy, and it is not possible to install them everywhere: the cover simply does not fit between the pipe and the wall.

Then you need to close the gap with decorative putty. In theory, sealant or wood putty would be suitable for this purpose. But the temperature can cause the putty to crumble; the sealant is elastic and easily survives heat. But it’s better to go to the store together with a piece of laminate in order to accurately select the color (the sealant is sold already tinted according to the RAL system). Another option is grout for seams ceramic tiles. It is also sold tinted and at the same time (if diluted with latex) it is quite elastic. The only thing is that the package will be used in best case scenario 10%. The rest will remain in case of possible repairs.

Comments

comments powered by HyperComments

Makhlin Oleg

As far as I can see, everything is covered with ordinary grout for the seams.

Informative. It would be nice if other cases were described. For example, when the box has been completed and you can no longer install a threshold or a plinth there.

Igor Kulbeda

It depends on how you cut it. The easiest way to close it is with a decorative washer. But when the pipes are close to the wall, they are usually cut into a rectangle, so the washer does not fit.

For such cases, you need to run pipes into the wall. And then they carefully come out of the wall directly onto the tap.

Well, they take it out mainly from the floor.

Contours for heating pipes under laminate when installing flooring

Lay laminate flooring around pipes and under doors, as well as other obstacles, actually does not present any particular difficulties - you just need to know some important points. These are the ones we will talk about here.

Laminate pipe bypass carried out as follows: a) it is necessary to take measurements and set marks; b) cut a hole of the required diameter in the corresponding shield, taking into account that there should be a distance of 10 mm between the pipe and the edge of the laminate.

The seams around pipes and other iron need to be sealed with acrylic sealant (it is better to take a sealant that exactly matches the color of the floor, the color here in the photo is not very suitable). However, the perimeter seams covered by skirting boards must remain unfilled:

Laminate flooring around corners, steps, thresholds, ramps and other similar elements are subject to the same rule - the distance between them and the edge of the laminate should be 10 mm.

Where does this distance come from? The fact is that 10 mm. - this is the minimum width of the expansion joint, which is necessary to ensure free movement of the coating that occurs due to temperature and other deformation (laminated floors continuously “breathe”). If there are no expansion joints, the shields may swell, so you need to take this seriously. Although laminate is a “construction set for adults” and “wallpaper for the floor,” its flooring is still not toys, but work that must be treated as such.

Laminate under doors it is laid as follows: during the installation process, or rather, even before it, the doors are removed from their hinges and removed from the room. But before you need to calculate whether the door will close after you lay the floors. To do this, add up the thickness of the substrate and the thickness of the laminate and subtract all this from the distance from the concrete base of the floor to the edge of the door. If less than 3 mm remains (excluding the aluminum threshold), then the door will have to be sawed down. If you also need a threshold, then at least 8 mm should remain (another thing is that the threshold can be located Behind the door, and not under it).

Flooring of the outermost row is carried out in the same way as the rest of the rows, only it will most likely have to be sawed lengthwise, that is, all its shields will have to be sawed. This is not as difficult as it might seem: you simply measure the distance between the edge of the penultimate row and the wall, subtract the same 10 mm, saw off, connect, lay. The process is described in full (with photos and videos) in the general material on laying laminate flooring.

If a row cannot be installed (for example, because a steam heating radiator is in the way), then you should use a planer to remove part of the lock edge of the panel of the previous row, which will make it possible to insert the panel of the outermost row at a greater angle than usual. Apply glue to the lock, push the unruly panel under the radiator and finish the row.

How to lay laminate flooring if a pipe running across the room is in the way? Yes, very simple! You just need to take the panel, place it on the previous one and click it with a sharp force (watch the video).

True, the panel should not be too short so that it can be bent:

This is how you need to avoid obstacles when laying laminate floors. Agree that there is absolutely nothing complicated or supernatural in this. Yes, it should be remembered that when you carry out such work to order, the avoidance of obstacles is usually assessed separately (for example, as is the case with tiling). I mean, in an ordinary room with four corners and one radiator, the installation price is basic, but if it’s full different angles and the radiators are mounted on the walls like cockroaches, and at the same time pipes stretch along the floor almost under every wall, then the assessment of the work should be reconsidered.

Laying laminate Instructions 3

How to avoid terrain obstacles.

Laminate bypass of heating pipes

Often found on the Internet beautiful way bypass heating pipes. The experience of our laminate laying specialists will allow you to choose the most elegant way to get around obstacles of any complexity (corners, pipes).

One of them is when the pipes are, as it were, taken into blocks:

• The laminate is laid until the next row is not blocked by a pipe.
• Using a tape measure, a corner and other convenient tools, the location of the pipes is measured - the distance from the center of the pipes to the laid laminate sheet and from the center to the wall
• The diameter of the pipes is determined
• On the planned laminate board, the obtained values ​​are marked - circles of pipes are drawn, taking into account the required gap from the wall and the pipes themselves (diameter 1 cm.
• The cut is made in a straight line across the laminate board
• The short part is inserted behind the pipes (from the wall), after which the long part of the laminate board is laid

Even more beautiful solution There is an option when, instead of a cross cut to connect the short and long parts, an end lock is used.

Laminate and heating pipes

Those. all markings and cutting of holes for the pipe are made at the junction of the laminate boards (as in the photo above)

In practice, this option is extremely rare. Usually the pipes are very close to the walls.

It’s easier to make an oval cut for the pipe, taking into account the required gap, and if you really want to, make the reverse part from the remaining piece.

But this is not necessary - the presence of a gap and installation of the plinth on the wall leads to the need for decorative intervention (colored sealant or special overlays).

It is better to first make the markings on cardboard, check them several times, and then transfer them to the laminate board and saw them off. Because The radius of the oval will be small, the jigsaw must be driven very slowly and significant efforts must be made to turn it. Usually the canvas begins to “burn” - smoke may appear, and the canvas becomes covered with soot. But it was never possible to bring it to the flame)). For greater convenience, you first need to cut out one side of the oval, then the other.

A gap between the pipe and the laminate (or between the pipe and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorative agents.

Laminate around corners

If the angle is encountered in the direction of travel, i.e. the ledge is on the right in the direction of movement, then there is no great difficulty. Get to the corner, measure the geometry of the protrusion on the whole board: length to the protrusion, depth of the protrusion, add a gap, double-check it several times and saw off.

It is more difficult when the angle is on the left in the direction of travel and affects the geometry of several boards (i.e. a long partition). In this case, you can miscalculate the depth of the cut boards, because no azimuth. In this case, it is necessary to make a false row.

To the laid row we add either a whole board or the longest piece of board possible (if a whole board cannot be used due to limited width). We attach several boards to it - a false row to the extreme left position. We align all the edges and snap all the locks. We take measurements of the resulting niches and transfer them to the blanks, check them several times (dimensions, location of locks) and saw them off. Then we disassemble the false row and install the sawn blanks.

This work is complicated by the fact that the locks will have to be connected not from left to right, but vice versa.

Walking around door frames and furniture

There are two ways to pair floor coverings with door frames: adjustment of coating geometry or filed the box. Both methods have pros and cons. The filing of the box is a beautiful option - there are no gaps. But the door frame is a more static element than the floor covering. For example, first a parquet board was laid (height 12-15 mm), it was scratched, wet, and cracked. It was decided to replace it with laminate (height 8 mm) of the same color. And the box has already been sawed - there will be an 8 mm gap. Or you need to quickly disassemble the floor during flooding - with the option of boards placed under a box, this is not always easy to do.

The second disadvantage is the labor intensity and cost of the box. Prices interior doors can vary from 1,500 to 100,000 rubles (or more). Sawing down the door frame of an expensive door is an extremely unpleasant task. In this position (hacksaw blade bending, pressed to the floor), the cut may become distorted or the veneer may chip.

Adjusting the geometry of the floor covering to the shape of the box does not have the above-mentioned disadvantages, but requires decorative masking of the deformation gap. This is usually done with colored sealants.

If selected first way, you need to take a hacksaw with a fine tooth, mark the height of the cut using a small piece of coating (+ substrate, board and 1-3 mm of reserve) and very carefully make the cut. If it is possible to remove the trim, it is better to do this, it will be more convenient. If not, the work will become more difficult. Don't forget what's behind them concrete wall, which can damage the hacksaw. A margin of 1-3 mm is necessary so that the box does not press the laminate.

Next, the board is measured and cut. The geometry of the cut should be such that after laying all the edges are hidden under the box by 5-10 mm, but do not rest against an obstacle. For convenience, the minimum acceptable length of the board is desirable - equal to the width of the board.

Once the laminate board of the required geometry is made, it is snapped along the long side (into the longitudinal lock), and then gently tapped through a tamping block (or through a piece of board with a reverse lock) and moved under the door frame. In this operation, the slowness and frictional force of the longitudinal locks are important (than longer board, the more difficult it is to move it along the longitudinal lock).

If selected second way, you need to use cardboard. The geometry of the box is applied to it, the necessary cut is made, checked and only then transferred to the workpiece. It is better to mark the threshold line using a flat tool placed between the door frame jambs.

A gap between the door frame and the laminate (or between the frame and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorative agents.

Laying laminate flooring in a doorway in a complex version

Most difficult option bypassing the door frame when the direction of laying the laminate or parquet board parallel to the doorway, and the laminate must be placed under the door frame.

• The joint of the boards should be done close to the middle of the opening. If the penultimate row does not allow this, then maintain a run-up, but join in doorway
• No matter how long the row is and no matter where it is doorway(edges of the wall or the middle), it will need to be laid away from the doorway.
• Saw off a small board (10-15 cm wide) so that it can be inserted into the lock of the penultimate laid row and 1 cm remains between it and the wall.
• Remove the wedges from all sides of the laid laminate or parquet board
• Insert the board into the penultimate row and from one edge and move the entire sheet with a nail puller by 5-7 mm, then do this from the other edge.
• File the door frame on both sides (it is advisable to do this before laying the last 2-3 rows)

• Measure and cut the board (with any part of the lock in the middle - the left or right side of the structure). The geometry of the cut laminate or parquet board should be such that the cracks are covered by the frame and trim, but the board does not rest against the wall or frame anywhere.
• Insert the workpiece into the lock and carefully tap it to the extreme position, i.e. 5-7 mm from the normal position. If the geometry needs to be changed, do it.
• Measure and cut the next piece. Its geometry should be such that it fits into the short lock of the laid workpiece and fits into the remaining opening between the door frame. All cracks, in the end, should also be covered with the door frame and trim.
• Insert the workpiece into place. It should work out next situation- the entire panel is offset from the doorway by 5-7 mm, one board is placed under the door frame until it touches the wall, the other is laid in all the locks, but not under the door frame

• Next, you need to move two blanks along the canvas. This is done either by tamping or with a nail puller (if there is a stop).
• After this, using a nail puller, the entire canvas is shifted towards the doorway by 5-7 mm. It goes under the box. Do not forget about the distance for installing the threshold.

• Add the rest of the last row.

Note

Laying laminate or parquet boards in a doorway as described above is not an easy process.

Without experience, you can ruin more than one workpiece, but there is no need to despair - the one who walks will master the road.

Note

Even if the entire apartment is planned to be covered with one floor covering, thresholds are necessary. Our craftsmen periodically travel to sites where it is necessary to break up a single covering of several rooms, because... it rose like a wave.

If the room has built-in furniture that cannot be moved, it can be left in place and a covering can be laid around. In this case, all geometric adjustments must be made using cardboard templates.

Note

There are very complex geometric shapes, for example, going around a door frame when laying boards diagonally. Without a template it will be difficult even for experienced craftsmen.

Order service

Instructions for laying laminate flooring

Step 1. Preparing to lay the laminate

Step 2. Row-by-row laying of laminate

Features of laying parquet boards

Laying laminate flooring with your own hands - brief instructions

Laying parquet boards diagonally

Good afternoon Please tell me how to properly lay laminate flooring in doorways and near pipe risers. I will have to install the flooring myself. In general, a master did the flooring work for me: he picked necessary materials, prepared the foundation. All that was left was to install the laminate, but he became seriously ill and would not be able to continue for the next 5-6 months. I decided to do everything myself. In principle, I imagine the procedure, but it’s specific places that confuse me, where I’m afraid of spoiling it.

Yes, indeed, when laying laminate flooring, special attention should be paid to areas in the areas of doorways and places where communication elements are located. In this aspect, two methods of installing laminate flooring are relevant.

What about doorways?

Method No. 1

It is characterized by high labor costs, although this technology is the most optimal in the vast majority of cases. Door frame cut to a height that will be sufficient for laying the laminate panel. But when performing such manipulations, the popular wisdom is very relevant: “Measure seven times before cutting.” Here the main emphasis is on dimensional accuracy, since there is no chance to correct the situation.

Method number 2

An easier method that involves working with a laminate panel. It is cut to size door jamb or other “protrusion”, leaving a gap from the wall. Near the doorway, a gap of no more than 5 mm is allowed. In addition, it will subsequently close with a special decorative strip, which will be installed in such a way that it will not interfere with the closing and opening of the door.

Particular attention to risers and pipelines

In this case, laying should be done in such a way that the transverse joint falls on the pipes. Or you need to pre-drill a special hole that completely matches the shape and size of the pipe. In this case, it is important to comply with the following condition: the size of the hole must be 20 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe. At the final stage of installation of the laminate flooring, the resulting gaps will be closed with special plugs that match the color of the floor.

Installation of flooring made from laminated panels does not require special knowledge, and therefore anyone can do it. A well-thought-out system of locks, ease of cutting and laying lamellas makes it possible to independently create a comfortable floor in an apartment in a few hours. To install laminate flooring yourself without difficulty, you first need to study the technology of each process and the sequence of steps.

Laminate flooring has different strength, water resistance, color and texture, and differs in installation method and price. In order for new floors to serve for a long time and with high quality, special attention should be paid to the choice of laminate. Covering classes 21, 22 and 23 are intended for residential premises, 31 and 32 for commercial premises. The higher the class, the stronger material. Optimal thickness for laminate it is 7-9 mm. Lamels of greater thickness have the same service life, but are more expensive.

The level of moisture resistance and noise absorption must be indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. An important factor is the method of joining the panels: it can be adhesive or locking. The first option makes it possible to reliably seal the joints using waterproof glue; moreover, such panels are cheaper. Laminate with a locking method is more expensive, but has its advantages. It is very easy to install; if necessary, you can easily replace any of the slats.

In addition to the laminate, you will need to purchase a backing. It protects the coating from damage when in contact with the subfloor, muffles sounds, and retains heat. The most popular materials Foamed polyethylene and natural cork are considered for the substrate.

The polyethylene backing has a low cost, is not afraid of moisture, but wears out too quickly. Cork backing is durable, strong, has high heat-insulating properties, but is completely unsuitable for rooms with high humidity.

Preparing the concrete base

Laminate flooring can be installed on a concrete or wooden base. To prevent the coating from creaking or deforming, the subfloor must be perfectly level. The permissible height difference is 2 mm per square meter area.

During the preparation process you will need:

• cement-sand mixture;
• building level;
• rule;
• primer;
• waterproofing film;
• scotch.

To begin with, the base is cleaned of dust and its integrity is checked. If the surface is too uneven or covered with cracks, it is recommended to make a new screed, since leveling out individual defects will take a lot of time. If there are no large cracks or deep potholes, the existing irregularities are repaired cement mortar, and the protruding areas are cleaned off. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the subfloor using a level or rule.

A clean, level base is primed and then coated plastic film or a special membrane for waterproofing. The film is laid overlapping, strengthening the seams with tape. It is very important that there are no folds or other thickenings on the film, which, after laying the coating, will lead to pushing through the substrate.

Preparing the wooden base

When laying the coating on a wooden floor, the base also needs to be properly prepared. Installation cannot be carried out if the floor boards are cracked or loose, there are gaps, or rotten areas.

To prepare you will need:

• moisture-resistant plywood 15 mm;
• antiseptic primer;
• screws or nails;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• level.

Torn boards are nailed to the joists, boards with mold stains or chipped places are replaced with new ones. The cracks are sealed with sealant, the base is checked with a level or rule, and carefully primed with an antiseptic composition. Waterproof plywood is laid on top and fixed to the base with nails or self-tapping screws. If the differences in height are more than 2 mm per meter of area, the surface is leveled by placing wooden blocks of different thicknesses under the plywood.

Laying panels using adhesive method

This installation method cannot be used if a “warm floor” system is installed. Also, you should not use PVA glue, which is water-soluble and will not be able to provide the coating with proper tightness. Before installing the covering on the floor, the laminate should be kept in the room at a temperature of 18-20 degrees for at least 2 days. The rough base is covered with a backing made of cork or polyethylene, laying the material end-to-end and gluing the seams with tape. If the panels have their own soundproofing substrate, there is no need to lay foamed polyethylene on the base.

Step 1. Installation of the first row

According to the instructions on the package, dilute the glue and let it sit. The first lamella is turned with the groove towards the wall, then glue is applied along the entire length of the recess, including a short section of the lamella. Place it on the floor, insert spacer wedges between the panel and the wall surface and press down. Take a second board, cover the upper edge of the end groove with glue and connect the tongues. Excess glue is immediately wiped off, preventing it from drying out. If necessary, the panels are lightly tamped with wooden block with a hammer. The outermost lamella in the row is cut with a jigsaw to the required length.

Step 2. Installation of the second row

The next row is always laid with the seams offset at a certain distance. Most often this is half the length of the panel. When starting to install the second row, cut the first panel in half with a jigsaw, cover the side cut with glue and apply it to the lamellas of the first row. The next fragment is first connected to the first row, shifting it slightly along the length, then it is moved to the adjacent panel and the ends are secured with tongues. The remaining boards are laid in exactly the same way. After the first three rows, work is suspended for 1.5-2 hours so that the glue sets well.

Step 3. Laying around heating pipes

If heating or sewer pipes are installed in the floor, you need to attach a piece of paper to them and trace the contours of the connection with a pencil. Using the template made, cutouts are made in the panels, after which the sections are coated with glue and pressed to the surface. Spacer wedges should be inserted between the pipes and the laminate. The outermost row of panels is mounted using a crowbar, carefully prying up the edges of the boards. Finally, the wedges are removed, and the gaps around the perimeter of the room are closed with plinths.

Installation of panels using the locking method

When laying panels using the locking method, the material must also lie in the room for at least 2 days. At this time, the floor is covered with a cork or polyethylene backing, adjacent strips of which are laid end-to-end. To prevent the insulation from moving during installation of the laminate, as well as to seal the coating, the seams are taped. The sealant should extend 2-3 cm onto the walls around the entire perimeter.

During the installation process you will need:

Step 1. Installation of the first row

Install the panels starting from the corner, placing them perpendicular to the window. Spacer pegs are attached between both walls and the panel so that a gap of 1 cm remains. The second board is applied to the end of the first, holding it at a slight slope, and the grooves are carefully connected. At the end of the row, if necessary, the panel is cut and the missing fragment is attached.

Step 2. Installation of the second row

A new row of laminate is laid with offset joints. If a piece of at least 30 cm in length remains from the previous row, laying begins with it; if the fragment is too short, a new board should be cut. The panels of the second row are laid out along the first and connected to each other at the ends, and then the resulting block is attached to the first row with a continuous strip and snapped into place. Where the locks are not closed tightly, apply a block to the board and slightly correct it with a hammer. In places where walls bend and around pipelines, holes are cut out in the lamellas according to a template.

Many people prefer to lay laminate not parallel to the walls, but diagonally, under parquet, using panels different shades. Diagonal laying will require an increase in material consumption by about 7%, a little more for parquet, since you will have to cut a lot of boards according to the pattern.

To lay out the panels diagonally, you need to measure the same distance from the corner on both walls and put marks with a pencil. Then, using nails, a thick fishing line is pulled between the marks and secured. This will help to more accurately determine the location of the slats. The first strip is cut on both sides at an angle of 45 degrees and inserted between the walls so that there is a gap of about 1 cm. Spacer wedges are secured in the gaps.

The second row should consist of two fragments, joining exactly in the middle of the first board. For these fragments, only one edge is cut at an angle, making sure that there is always a gap at the wall. For convenience, you can fill the central part of the floor, and then start trimming the slats and laying the side sections. After filling the entire area, the wedges are removed, the excess sealant is cut off with a sharp knife, and the baseboards are installed.

The option of laying it under parquet looks original: fragments of panels 30 cm long are laid out in the form of a braid or herringbone, alternating vertical and horizontal pieces. If you use laminate in two shades and move the joints not by half the length, but by 30 cm in each row, you will get beautiful zigzags. You can lay out large and small squares, alternately mounting rows of vertical and horizontal fragments.

To hide sloppy cuts around pipelines or joints of adjacent coatings of different thicknesses, use special decorative edges and thresholds to match the color of the laminate. At curved joints it is convenient to use flexible thresholds that easily take the desired shape and have a decorative appearance.

Video - Do-it-yourself laminate installation