How to lay piece parquet: do it yourself and the cost of turnkey work. Laying parquet with your own hands: rules for preparing the base and technology of work The most common installation methods at present

One of the most attractive types of flooring is parquet. It allows you to create amazing things in your home. cozy atmosphere, is warm enough and can be used to create an original pattern on the floor. That is why many people decide to opt for it during renovation. But not everyone knows how to lay parquet. Let's consider how this procedure occurs, what are the subtleties of installing such a coating.

Parquet is a coating that is not only beautiful, but also durable and environmentally friendly. It is made from natural wood, which is why its cost is quite high. However, the material allows you to retain heat in the house, is hypoallergenic, has a service life of 25 years or more, and provides excellent sound insulation.

On a note! The main disadvantage of the material is its high maintenance requirements. He does not like water, and therefore it is not recommended to wash him often. Also, periodically the coating has to be rubbed with special compounds so that it shines and looks like new.

Parquet can be of different types, and choose the most suitable option everyone can do it for themselves. The material can be piece, mosaic, panel, massive, palace. There is also a separate type of parquet, which is called. All types of material differ in size, methods of laying and working with them. Some are easier to install, some are more difficult, but in any case, the material does not lose its main advantages listed above.

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Tarquette parquet

Methods for laying parquet

The most common types of parquet are traditional piece, panel, and parquet board. Depending on the type of material and type of base, the optimal installation option is selected. There are three main ones.

Table. Basic coating installation options.

The most popular method of installing parquet flooring is adhesive. It is reliable, which is what attracts craftsmen. The choice of adhesive will depend on what kind of parquet is being installed. There are the following main types of adhesive compositions.

Important! It is important to work very carefully with polyurethane-based glue. If such a composition gets on the front side of the material, it can damage the coating.

The glue is always applied using a special notched spatula. It is thanks to them that it is possible to apply the composition in a layer of the required thickness and evenly. Sometimes, for additional fixation, parquet staples can be used, which are driven at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor surface using a pneumatic gun.

Regular piece parquet can be laid in various patterns.

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How to lay parquet correctly? Important aspects

Laying parquet has certain nuances - although the process is simple, it still requires a responsible and correct approach. If special requirements are not followed, the base will quickly collapse or lose its appearance.

1. The air temperature in the room where the work is carried out should be within +18-23 degrees.
2. Air humidity should be no more than 45-60%.
3. Before starting work, the parquet must be kept in the room where it will be installed for 7-10 days. This will allow the material to “get used” to future operating conditions.
4. There should be nothing unnecessary in the room during work.
5. The base for laying parquet must be carefully prepared - leveled and cleared of debris.
6. You should not install parquet on old, swollen and damaged flooring.

Subject to all installation conditions, as well as proper care The coating behind parquet can last 60-80 years without any complaints.

Parquet base

During preparation for installation of parquet, special attention should be paid to the rough base. It must be perfectly smooth and clean, there should be no roughness or bumps on it, otherwise the parquet will not lie as required and will last very little time. First, remove the old floor covering, if any. It is important to inspect joists and subfloors for damage and rot. If they are unsuitable for laying parquet, they will have to be removed and replaced with new ones. In this case, the logs can be closed as wooden planks, and immediately with plywood. In general, a cake of this type has several layers - this is directly concrete floor, joists, moisture-resistant plywood, adhesive composition and the parquet itself.

The logs should have a thickness of 5-10 cm; before installation they are coated protective compounds, preventing rotting and destruction of wood. Boards or sheets of plywood are already attached to them. The easiest way to fill the space between the joists is with some kind of insulation - it will make the floors warmer, which is especially important for those rooms that are located above basement. To install a subfloor, you should not use plywood thinner than 12 mm. During installation, it is worth considering that there should be small gaps, about 1 mm wide, between its individual sheets. Slightly larger in width - about 1.5 mm - compensation gaps are also left along the walls.

Don't forget about waterproofing. It will provide protection for both the joist and the rough base, as well as the parquet itself, from excess moisture, which negatively affects the materials from which they are made. The easiest way is to use plastic film.

Parquet can be laid not only on plywood, but also on. But it must be perfectly smooth and reliable. If necessary, self-leveling mixtures will help level it. Also, such a base must be primed to ensure maximum adhesion. Then the adhesive composition will stick to it best.

On a note! You can level the concrete base with sheets of plywood. Fastening is done using dowels.

If a new one was poured concrete screed, That further work can only be done after it has completely dried. The drying time for the screed is about 28 days. However, you cannot speed up the process by using heating devices - in this case, the screed may begin to collapse. Installation of parquet should not be carried out on a damp base. Checking this indicator in relation to the screed is quite simple - a piece of polyethylene measuring 1x1 m is placed on it and left there for a day. Then the film is lifted and its condition is assessed from the inside. If it is dry, then you can lay parquet; if condensation has accumulated on it, then the subfloor needs to be dried.

It is recommended to lay a concrete floor underlay before laying the parquet if we're talking about about laying the floor using the floating method, and also using the adhesive method. It will ensure the most comfortable use of floors, as it smooths out minor unevenness in the base, increases thermal insulation performance, helps distribute the load on the parquet correctly and additionally protects it from moisture.

Tools and materials

For parquet laying work, certain tools may be required, as well as a number of materials. The list is approximate, since the need to use some of them will depend on the method by which the parquet is laid. May be useful:

• jigsaw or saw;
• grinding machines;
• drill, dowels and screws;
• hammer;
• measuring instruments and pencil;
• notched spatula;
• brushes and primer;
• moisture-proofing material;
• adhesive composition;
• nails, parquet staples;

It is necessary to pay special attention to the purchase of the parquet itself - its service life will directly depend on its quality. No need to buy material Low quality, cheap, damaged. Also, the parquet must be chosen in a color that matches the overall style of the room where the renovation is being carried out.

On a note! Oak parquet is the most durable and reliable, as well as durable, but is quite expensive. Maple and beech materials are cheaper, but not much inferior in quality to oak.

Parquet laying process

Laying process parquet flooring It’s not as complicated as it seems – it just has to be done carefully and carefully, and then everything will work out. There's no need to choose complex pattern, if the master is not confident in his abilities, it is better to lay the parquet using the most common methods - for example, linear. But you can try to implement other variants of patterns or buy panel parquet.

Step 1. The surface of the rough base, which in this case is a concrete screed, is carefully ground - it needs to be leveled to perfect condition. The most convenient and fastest way to do this is with grinding machine.

Step 2. The resulting dust and other debris are collected using a vacuum cleaner. Corners and areas near walls are treated especially carefully.

Step 3. A layer of epoxy primer is applied to the screed. The easiest way to do the work is with a roller with a long handle. The primer is applied so that there are no uncoated areas left on the floor.

Step 4. An insulating substrate is placed on the base. It is glued to glue, which is applied to the prepared base using a notched trowel.

Step 5. The backing sheets are laid end to end and smoothed by hand.

Step 6. The substrate is then rolled with a heavy roller. This procedure will ensure maximum reliable connection with concrete screed.

Step 7 After this, the installation of mosaic parquet begins. The first rows of elements are placed at a short distance from the walls - a few millimeters are enough. These will be compensation gaps, which will subsequently be closed with a plinth. Parquet adhesive is applied to the substrate using a notched trowel. It is applied in small areas, sufficient for gluing several elements.

Step 8 The parquet elements are laid on the adhesive layer in joint with the previously laid ones.

Step 9 Each parquet element is carefully pressed to the base.

Step 10 When the parquet is laid and the adhesive layer has dried well, the surface of the coating is sanded with a special grinding machine. Along the walls, the material is processed with an angle grinder.

Step 11 The mosaic parquet blocks are being puttied. Using a wide spatula, a special composition is applied to the surface of the material and distributed evenly over the base.

Step 12 After this layer has dried, the surface is sanded using a surface grinder for parquet.

Step 14 The final stage is polishing the parquet.

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Video - Laying block parquet

This is how parquet flooring is installed. If everything is done in accordance with the requirements presented above, then anyone can cope with the task. However, in order for parquet to look beautiful for as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it.

There are different options for laying block parquet. There are three flooring options that are the most common in our time: “flip-flop”, “Christmas tree” and “deck”.

"Deck"- the simplest way. In this case, the planks are located transversely and parallel to each other. Laying is used when it is necessary to separate parquet patterns into parts.

"Vietnamese"- this is the interlacing of transverse and longitudinal dies. The installation is very durable if the technology is followed.

"Herringbone"- the most common styling in Russia. Deformation of the parquet with this installation method is minimal. The planks are positioned at ninety degrees to each other and 45° to the walls.

How to lay parquet?

Preparing the base

The parquet is laid only after all construction work is completed.

The essence of parquet work is preparing the base of the floor, laying and fastening parquet boards to it, shaving, straightening and rubbing the parquet, or coating it with varnish.

At the moment, parquet boards are most often laid over a screed made of sand-cement mortar, asphalt concrete on different types glue or adhesive mixtures.

Sand-cement and concrete screeds

They are often made of concrete. Laying occurs over a pre-prepared layer of sound and heat insulation, the thickness of which is set during design.

The screed is installed along beacons (slats), and is carried out with grips that are up to two meters wide.

The correct placement of beacons is checked using a building level.

The top of the slats should be two to three millimeters lower than the top of the screed. And the top of the screed, in turn, should be below the floor level by the fullness of the parquet.

The thickness of the putty is not taken into account, since when sharpening and straightening parquet boards, a layer of wood of exactly this thickness is removed from them.

The screeds are compacted with a light vibrator. After this process, they are leveled and primed until a rough surface is obtained, which is checked with a two-meter strip. Then all irregularities are corrected.

To prevent the main screed from peeling and cracking, it must harden when wet. To do this, after two days the screed must be covered with sand or sawdust and watered with water for the next ten days. After this, everything is removed and the screed is given time to dry.

Parquet needs to be laid within twenty-four hours after applying the primer, if by this time the primer is no longer sticky and the screed has sufficient moisture and strength.

The general level of parquet for an apartment is determined by the level of the staircase landing.

Since the front door often opens inwards, the parquet should be fifteen millimeters below the level staircase so that the door opens freely without scratching the floor.

The floor level in the remaining rooms is, in turn, adjusted to the floor level of the first room.

DIY styling

Parquet workers need tools and a hand machine to work.

Before you start laying block parquet, check the evenness of the floor using a building level.

When drawing up a plan for laying parquet, use a tape measure and a meter tape. Guides for laying parquet panels are marked using a cord.

If the amount of work is small, then for separating parquet boards and other flooring operations, use: a jigsaw, a chisel, pliers, a square, a plane, a hammer for working on parquet, a carpenter's hammer, a punch.

Putties that are intended for gluing different substances are leveled using special tools. They are poured into tin tanks and watering cans from large containers.

Tanks are convenient for transporting putty because the lid closes tightly.

Watering cans are convenient for draining the mixture on the base.

After draining the mixture, it is leveled with spatulas with long handles. The notches on the spatulas allow you to apply the putty evenly even on wavy surfaces.

When working with hot putty, you must keep it hot for a long time.

This can be done using an electric thermos, which contains a heating coil.

Sometimes for this purpose they use baths with a volume of fifteen liters, which consist of two parts: a tin bath and a stove with 2 heating elements.

The putty is poured into different containers using large scoops.

To level parquet in places that are difficult to reach by machine, use hand cycles with handles of different lengths. A cycle is a blade with a slightly curved cutting end.

Special machines are used to polish parquet or coat it with varnish.

Laying block parquet: video instructions

To understand the process of laying parquet and see everything with your own eyes, you can watch this video.

Laying parquet is a complex process that requires the involvement of several specialists. Parquet flooring with nails can only be laid on a nailed base.

The base boards are firmly nailed to the joists.

If the base of the floor is made of concrete, then it is necessary to first install a wooden flooring on it.

If the thickness of the boards is 35 millimeters, then the distance between the logs should be no more than 800 millimeters.

Before you start laying plank parquet with a longitudinal protrusion on the edge of the board, the base is covered with paper, cardboard and other substrates so that after laying there is no creaking of the floor.

Installation begins with “breaking out” the floor.

The direction of the lighthouse batten is fixed with a cord. Cord at correct location, runs along the edge of the slats on one side of the lighthouse. The nails are driven to a depth at which the cord stretched between the nails would be at a level equal to the thickness of the parquet boards.

Afterwards the lighthouse strip is laid, followed by the parquet.

After laying, the parquet rivets are leveled with a hammer.

After joining, the planks are nailed to the base. The remains are sawed off with a saw.

A gap of 15-20 millimeters is left between the parquet and the walls, which is then covered with a plinth.

Gluing parquet. Glue

To glue parquet, it is necessary to make the floor surface smooth, dry and clean.

IN concrete floor there should be no cracks. Construction wooden slabs must adhere firmly to the base.

Old floors should not creak or be rotten. In this case, a waterproofing gasket cannot be installed.

To avoid negative consequences, the room needs to be ventilated and heated for about a month before installation begins.

You need to unpack the parquet boards before starting work.

The glue should be evenly distributed over the surface with a spatula. After installation, it is better not to touch the parquet for 24 hours.

However, if you have doubts about poor gluing, then after an hour you can walk on the parquet or knock on it with a hammer. Using a hammer, you can find voids where sandbags need to be placed.

Usage natural materials for the interior always makes the house especially luxurious. That's why parquet floors are so popular. Parquet is a facing wood material, which appears these days in the most various types: massive, modular, piece, parquet panels, as well as its artificial analogue - laminate. Parquet flooring has been in everyday use for several centuries. And despite the fact that currently there are a large number of other materials for flooring, parquet firmly holds its position as a luxurious and environmentally friendly cladding material.

A variety of tree species are used to make parquet: oak, maple, ash, birch, beech, as well as merbau, wenge, mahogany and so on, known only in the tropics.

The main advantage of parquet flooring is durability. If you treat it correctly and carefully, parquet can last up to a hundred years. In addition, almost anyone can lay parquet flooring on their own.

The technique for laying parquet largely depends on the type of parquet covering. There are several types:

• Block parquet is the most common type, consisting of large quantity planks having connecting elements - grooves and ridges. In the manufacture of planks, hard wood is used. The thickness of the planks is about 15-22 millimeters, the length is 50 centimeters, and the width is 75 millimeters. There are a few in various ways laying such material.
• Solid parquet or solid parquet board is a type of piece parquet that differs in size. Thus, the length of massive parquet can be at least 50 centimeters, the width is 8 centimeters, and the thickness is from 15 millimeters. Another difference is that it can only be installed one way. This type is relatively more expensive, since more solid wood is used in production.
• Laminate or laminated parquet serves as an excellent substitute natural parquet, and the cost of such material is much cheaper.

Required Tools

When laying parquet flooring, you will need the following tools:

• pencil;
• jigsaw;
• saw;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• wedges;
• drill;
• nails.

The list of tools varies according to the complexity of the work ahead. If there is a need to apply a concrete screed, you will need wooden slats, trowel and grinding machine. If the work is carried out over a large area, then it is advisable to use electronic tools (for example, a jigsaw, laser marking device, electric drill, screwdriver), which will save time.

Using a polishing machine and an electric planer, you can achieve high-quality parquet flooring. However, all of the above tools are quite expensive, so it’s worth purchasing them for those who plan long time engage in construction, otherwise you can rent them.

The type of wood affects not only color scheme, but also on the durability of the parquet, since each type of wood has its own level of moisture resistance and has different hardness. So, for example, pine or other conifers are not used in the production of parquet, as they are exceptionally soft, and this can lead to the fact that traces of heels or other objects will remain on the finished parquet, despite being varnished. In most cases, oak, maple, walnut, ash, cherry, beech, and so on are used to make parquet.

The most common of them is classic oak parquet, which, being hard, has high resistance to moisture, has beautiful texture and a color scheme of various shades of brown. The only disadvantage of such parquet is its ability to darken over time; in other aspects, oak parquet is ideal for use.

It is important to pay attention to the duration of drying of the parquet, since the option of accelerated drying is not acceptable.

Beech parquet has the same hardness as oak. It has a warm, even red or yellow hue, which is its advantage. However, this type of parquet is quite capricious, since changes in temperature and humidity can cause the parquet covering to bend and deform. This type of parquet requires very careful maintenance and compliance with the necessary conditions for operation.

In terms of hardness, oak flooring is also not inferior to, and sometimes even surpasses, maple parquet, which initially appears white, but turns yellow over time. For such parquet, it is important to take into account the drying time, since rapid drying of such a coating leads to deformation over time.

Cherry parquet has a brown color with a slight pink tint, but after a while it darkens. The hardness of this type is less than that of oak, but one way or another, cherry parquet is quite popular, as it is easy to trim and process.

Merbau parquet is an exotic option. What is most appreciated about this coating is the unusual cut patterns of the trunk and the rich range of colors, which includes all shades. Brown. This type of wood is resistant to moisture, but contains so many resins that it is very difficult to process.

Wood for parquet flooring is selected in accordance with the conditions in which it will be used. Thus, cherry coating is good to use for a children's room, maple for an office, while oak can be used in any type of room. It is also possible to combine several types of wood different shades to create an unusual floor covering pattern.

Preparatory work

The main condition for long-term operation of parquet flooring is an absolutely flat surface on which the material will be laid. The base is made using screeds or lags. In the case of logs, the first layer is laid out of roofing material, on top of it is a dense layer of logs, then everything is covered with a sheet of plywood, which protects the parquet from deformation, levels the surface for laying, performs the function of thermal insulation and partly sound insulation, and also ensures the strength of the entire coating.

The plywood must have a thickness that is 5 millimeters less than the thickness of the parquet planks, but not less than 12 millimeters, otherwise it will not perform its functions. Thin plywood can be used double layer in a run.

When laying parquet on a screed, its surface is lubricated with glue, plywood squares are laid on it, pressing tightly and fixing with self-tapping screws or dowel nails. Be sure to leave a gap of at least 1-1.5 millimeters between the sheets of plywood to avoid deformation of the parquet flooring in the event of expansion of the plywood.

It is also necessary to leave a gap - expansion joint, between the plywood and the wall 2-3 millimeters. To prevent it from moving, wedges are inserted into it if desired.

Cement screed is a reliable basis for the parquet floor of an apartment or private home. It must be made smooth, strong and dry. Surface vibrations should not exceed a millimeter per 2 square meters; otherwise, a self-leveling floor is used. In this case, the humidity of the base should not be higher than 2%, maximum 4%. Humidity is measured using a special carbide device or using an electronic instrument.

If you do not wait for the screed to dry completely and hastily lay the parquet, this will lead to the wood material absorbing moisture and the floor becoming deformed.

For better adhesion of the glue and the surface, the surface of the screed is pre-primed. It is important to keep in mind that the materials must be compatible, that is, the glue and primer must be of the same type. At elevated level humidity (4%) you can use a polyurethane composition to create an additional waterproofing barrier. The primer is applied with a spatula or roller.

Next, a sheet of plywood is secured to the completely dry surface. Plywood, like parquet, “acclimatizes” after some time, spending several days in the room where installation will take place. Sheets of plywood are taken with a size of 1.5x1.5 meters, and, as already mentioned, a thickness of at least 12 millimeters. And they are divided into four equal parts, which are attached to the floor using self-tapping screws and one-component glue. In some cases, plywood is also fixed with screws without using glue. This, of course, is easier to do and takes less time, but the plywood sheets begin to creak after some time.

To secure one element with a value of 0.75 square meters 9 screws required. There may be a difference between the sheets, which is natural. It is eliminated using a drum-type parquet grinder, not processing the entire surface, but only the joints between the panels.

Laying on joists

The logs are laid in increments of 35-40 centimeters. To lay the lags, beams 50×50 or 80×50 are used. The joists are attached to the floor using dowels and angles. It is necessary that during the laying process the logs form a flat plane, for which purpose wooden stands are placed in places where differences occur or the excess is trimmed.

Upon completion of the arrangement, the logs are nailed to the plywood using self-tapping screws without the use of glue. The pitch of plywood squares is 10-15 centimeters. Plywood is nailed both to the edges and in the middle to each joist. Here it is also important to leave a gap between the sheets of plywood.

Laying on an old wooden floor

If the installation is carried out on an old wooden floor, then it is checked for serviceability: the absence of dips, creaks and other undesirable defects anywhere. If they are present, the floor is partially dismantled and the joists are repaired. Having corrected the defects, the surface of the old floor is sanded and parquet is laid. It is also possible to install directly on a wooden subfloor without the use of plywood.

Methods for laying block parquet

Laying block parquet is done in several ways:

• floating laying method;
• installation using parquet glue;
• installation using fastening with screws or nails;
• installation using parquet glue and fastening with screws or nails.

Floating laying method

With the floating installation method, parquet planks are attached only to each other using a tongue-and-groove system, without being secured to the base. Soundproofing material (for example, cork) is laid under the floor so that it does not creak. The essence of this installation is the ability of parquet planks to contract and expand in accordance with changes in humidity and temperature. However, this type of coating is not strong enough, since one locking connection can become loose and deform the weight of the floor.

Installation with glue

Laying with glue is more durable, but not very repairable. The base is lubricated with glue and parquet strips are laid using a tongue-and-groove system. This method is more labor-intensive and expensive due to the consumption of glue.

Installation using screws or nails

This is the most durable, therefore the most popular method. With this installation, the floor is almost not subject to deformation due to the fact that it is secured on all sides. However, this coating cannot be repaired.

Step-by-step installation of block parquet

To obtain a beautiful, even pattern, it is recommended to first draw it on a sheet of paper, accurately taking into account all the dimensions of the parquet planks and the room. If, in accordance with the drawing, any row does not turn out to be whole, the drawing is redone so that the trimmed rows are at the edges of the room, and only straight rows in the center.

Let's look at an example of laying parquet using the Herringbone method. The room is marked, its middle is determined. A cord is stretched from the wall to the opposite wall in the middle of the room, which must be guided by. Two planks of parquet are connected in a herringbone pattern by inserting a tenon into a groove. Glue is applied to the ends, tenon and groove. The base of the plywood, starting from the far wall, is also coated with glue using a notched trowel. “The herringbone is applied to the plywood in such a way that the right strip rests against the cord, and the left one presses it to the base. The planks are pressed against the plywood, squeezing out excess glue, and secured with self-tapping screws or nails, screwing them in at an angle of 45 degrees. Their caps should sink into the base. For each 40 cm strip there are at least 2 fastenings.

When laying, the person doing the work must sit in such a way that the tenon of the planks is located towards him.

Subsequent planks are laid according to the pattern. Glue is applied to the base of the plywood along the width of the plank in a layer of 1-1.5 millimeters. The plank is applied and inserted into the longitudinal and end groove of the previous one. The plank is hammered down with a rubber hammer and secured into the groove using self-tapping screws.

First of all, rows of parquet planks are laid on the right and left according to the “Herringbone” pattern. Next, a row is laid to the right of the “Christmas tree”, then to the left. The action continues in a similar way until the laying area reaches the walls. The remaining narrow spaces near the walls are filled with trimmings of planks to fit. A gap of 2-3 millimeters is left between the last row and the wall, into which wedges are driven.

Any subsequent work can be carried out at least a week until the glue is completely dry. Some experts even advise waiting six months for the parquet planks to finally take their position.

In addition to the classic “Herringbone”, piece parquet is also laid with various other patterns and ornaments: “deck”, “squares”, “wickerwork”, “wickerwork with inserts”, “diamonds”, “Sheremetyevo Star”, as well as their combinations.

This procedure is necessary to achieve a perfectly flat surface and remove defects that arise during work. Grinding is carried out using special grinding machines or using a regular grinder with a wheel of sandpaper. The first option is, of course, preferable and produces less dust. The first and second times, grinding is done using coarse grains, cutting off large irregularities, the third - using fine grains to obtain a smooth coating and remove roughness from the first grinding. Upon completion, the floor is thoroughly vacuumed to remove fine dust.

Primer and putty for block parquet

It is recommended to putty the parquet surface using a special wood putty, filling all the unevenness and cracks. When the putty has dried, the floor is sanded again with fine grain, removing excess putty, and vacuumed. The primer is used to improve the adhesion of the varnish and parquet. At the same time, thanks to the primer, the varnish does not penetrate deeply into the wood structure.

Coating parquet floors with varnish or oil

Parquet is coated with varnish to protect the wood from mechanical stress or moisture. Only 3-9 layers of varnish are allowed per parquet floor. The more layers of varnish you apply, the deeper the image will be. The varnish is applied with a roller over the entire surface at once, then left to dry for 1-1.5 days. Work on applying varnish should be carried out in clean shoes.

While the varnish is drying, it is not allowed to leave open windows or entrance doors, turn on ventilation or air conditioning or create a draft. To dry the varnish, you need as windless conditions as possible.

Each subsequent layer of varnish is also applied using a roller, leaving each layer to dry for 1-1.5 days. The final layer dries for at least a week to be walked on, but furniture can be moved in at least after a month, even two.

Parquet varnish can be chosen glossy or matte if desired.

Laying block parquet, as a rule, costs several times more than installation solid board, but the result is more durable, and there is also less risk that the floor will creak.

A wooden floor is always beautiful, original and warm. The unique atmosphere of comfort created is incomparable with other types of flooring. Parquet is used to create an individual, refined and noble floor covering. Block parquet can be used to form a fashionable, unique pattern, which is why it is still popular today, despite the fact that laying block parquet is complex and time-consuming. However, it is not necessary to call a specialist; after studying the technology and following all the rules and recommendations, you can do all the installation work yourself. The task is also simplified by the fact that all modern parquet planks are made with a tongue-and-groove system, which helps to securely fasten the parquet elements together without gaps.

Block parquet flooring - choosing wood

Not only the color scheme of the parquet depends on the type of wood, but also its durability, since different types of wood have different hardness and resistance to moisture. For example, pine and other conifers are not used for parquet production due to their exceptional softness. On pine parquet, even if it is covered with several layers of varnish, marks from heels and other sharp objects will remain.

The most common species used for parquet are oak, walnut, maple, cherry, ash, beech and others.

Classics of the genre. It is hard, resistant to moisture, has beautiful design, the color scheme of which can have different shades of brown. The only drawback of oak is that it darkens over time. The rest of it performance characteristics on high. When purchasing oak parquet, pay attention to the duration of its drying; the accelerated drying option is not suitable.

It has the same hardness as oak, but at the same time has an even warm and soft yellowish or reddish tint, for which it is valued. Beech is a capricious breed. Under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity, it bends and deforms, so it requires careful care and compliance optimal conditions operation.

Maple parquet At first it appears white, but over time it turns a little yellow. In terms of hardness, it is practically not inferior to oak, and in some species this figure is even higher. You should pay attention to the drying time; quickly dried maple wood becomes deformed over time.

Cherry parquet- brown in color with a distant shade of pink, but over time it darkens slightly. It has less hardness than oak, however, it is quite popular because it can be easily processed and trimmed.

Exotic option. He is valued for beautiful patterns in the section of the trunk and for the wide range of colors - all shades of brown. Merbau is not afraid of moisture, but is so saturated with resins that it is difficult to process.

Choose wood for parquet based on the operating conditions in a particular room. For example, cherry can be used in a child's room, maple in a den, and oak can be used everywhere. It is not at all necessary to make the entire parquet floor from one type of wood; you can create a unique pattern from species of different shades.

We buy piece parquet - pay attention to quality

Parquet planks are available in various sizes. The length of the plank can be 15 - 40 cm, width 3 - 9 cm, and thickness 1.5 - 2.2 cm.

It is necessary to select planks according to size, taking into account the area of ​​the room: small planks will visually enlarge the room, and large ones will reduce it. From an installation point of view, the size of the planks is also important. If the parquet strips are large, then the number of joints will be smaller, but then the requirements for the quality of drying of the material will be much greater. The larger the bar, the less elasticity it has.

The optimal width of parquet planks is 5 cm. If it is necessary to use planks bigger size, buy those that have cuts on inside, they are more resistant to deformation.

What should you pay attention to when purchasing block parquet?:

• There should be no knots, chips or cracks on the front surface.
• The top layer (from the top to the beginning of the interlocking joint) should be large enough. The thicker the wear layer, the more times the parquet can be sanded and refinished.
• Products must be dried to 8%. Drying time is at least a month.
• It is necessary to check the quality of the tenon and groove cut. To do this, just fold 4 planks into a square. If the planks fit together easily and 90° angles are formed between them without cracks or gaps, then the tongue-and-groove system is made with high quality.
• Sort the planks according to the cutting direction, the presence of sapwood residues and knots.

The most durable and valuable are the planks of the so-called radial cut, i.e. loose along. A characteristic feature are straight lines on the surface and a solid color. Radial parquet is more expensive than other types.

All work on laying parquet begins only after finishing the ceiling and walls, laying communications and checking them for leaks. When laying parquet, certain humidity and temperature indicators must be observed. So the residual humidity of the walls should not be higher than 6%, the humidity of the floor should not be higher than 5%, and the relative humidity of the air should be 35 - 60%. Optimal temperature- 18 - 23 °C.

Failure to comply with these conditions will result in deformation of the coating. If you lay parquet at high humidity levels, it will swell and take on moisture. And when all the work is finished, over time it will dry out, begin to “shrink” and gaps will appear between the dies. Fixing this is much more difficult and expensive than doing everything right from the beginning.

The surface on which piece parquet will be laid must be perfectly flat, maximum error 1 mm per 1 m2.

includes the following stages of work:

1. Repair of old concrete floors, if required.
2. Waterproofing concrete base.
3. Fill the leveling screed 4 - 5 cm thick. Or laying joists for a wooden floor.
4. Priming the screed for glue.
5. Gluing moisture-resistant plywood to a screed or attaching plywood to joists.
6. Gluing and nailing parquet to plywood.
7. Sanding the parquet surface.
8. Puttying parquet.
9. Priming parquet for varnish.
10. Opening the parquet with varnish from 3 to 9 layers.

All of the above measures must be completed, otherwise over time the parquet will dry out, begin to creak, or fall off altogether.

Preparatory work before laying parquet

Preparing a strong and level base is perhaps one of the most important tasks in laying parquet. The durability of the coating as a whole will depend on the quality of the fastening surface. The cost of laying piece parquet, if you order it in profile construction organizations, usually does not include base preparation.

Preparing the concrete base

If parquet is to be laid on a concrete floor, the first step is to waterproof it. To do this, the surface of the floor slab must be covered with a superdiffusion membrane or plastic film at 200 microns. The joints of the film sheet are made with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm and are taped with construction tape. The waterproofing film is applied to the walls by 10 - 15 cm and temporarily secured to it with tape.

Then you need to fill in the leveling screed, which will also serve as a mounting base for the plywood. The thickness of the screed should be 4 - 5 cm. It is imperative to check the horizontality of the coating and the absence of defects - holes, potholes, height differences and others.

Important! Before starting subsequent work, the screed must be completely dry. This will take about a month or two. You should not rush and continue laying parquet flooring, as the wood will draw moisture from the screed, and this will lead to inevitable deformations.

When the screed dries, its surface is covered with special primers, which increase the adhesion of the base to the glue and at the same time act as waterproofing.

Then moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 12 mm is taken and cut into squares of 50x50 cm or 75x75 cm.

Functions of moisture-resistant plywood under a piece package:

• Protects parquet from shrinkage deformations.
• Ideally levels the surface.
• Serves as thermal insulation and partial sound insulation.
• Provides durability.
• Serves as a basis for fastening parquet strips. If you lay parquet directly on the screed, the planks may fall off due to the destruction of the top layer of the screed. Plywood holds them firmly.

Important! The thickness of the plywood should be 5 mm less than the thickness of the parquet strip. But using sheets smaller than 12 mm is impractical; they do not perform their functions. In this case, you can lay the plywood in two layers, staggered.

Next, the surface of the screed is lubricated with glue and squares of plywood are laid on it, pressed tightly and fixed with dowel nails or self-tapping screws. It is imperative to leave at least a 1 - 1.5 mm gap between the squares of plywood to prevent deformation of the parquet if the plywood begins to expand.

It is also important to leave a gap of 2 - 3 mm between the wall and the plywood; this will be an expansion joint. You can insert special wedges into the gap to prevent the gap from moving.

It is not necessary to attach the plywood to the concrete base; you can do it the old fashioned way - the floor is on joists. To do this, you don’t even have to level the concrete base. It is enough to waterproof it by spreading a waterproofing film.

Then the logs are laid in increments of 35 - 40 cm. You can use 50x50 or 50x80 mm timber as logs. The logs are secured to the floor using corners and dowels. In the process of laying the logs, it is necessary to ensure that their surface forms an even plane. To do this, in places where there are differences in heights of the concrete base, you can place wooden stands or trim off the excess.

When the logs are installed, plywood is nailed. Glue is no longer used here, only self-tapping screws. The step for attaching the plywood squares to the joists is 10 - 15 cm. It is necessary to nail the plywood not only at the edges, but also in the middle to all the joists. The gap between the squares is also required.

Preparing an old wooden floor

Before laying parquet on an old wooden floor, it must be checked to ensure it is in good condition. There should be no creaks, dips or other defects anywhere. If something similar is observed, it is necessary to partially dismantle the flooring and repair the joists. After the renovation is completed, the surface of the old wooden floor is sanded. Parquet can be laid directly on wooden base floor, without plywood.

Laying block parquet with your own hands

The work of laying block parquet is very important; you cannot rush here, reducing the repair time. It’s better to take a break for a day or two or a week than to have to redo all the work. After all, one mistake and all the coverage is down the drain.

Methods for laying block parquet

The technology of laying parquet involves several ways of laying it:

• Floating installation method.
• Installation with parquet glue.
• Laying with fastening with nails or self-tapping screws.
• Laying on parquet glue and securing with nails or self-tapping screws.

Floating method installation involves fastening parquet planks only to each other using a tongue-and-groove system. They are not attached to the base in any other way. To prevent such a floor from creaking, they lay soundproofing material, for example, a traffic jam. Parquet planks fixed in this way will expand and contract freely depending on temperature and humidity conditions. The floating floor is repairable - just disassemble it and put it back together. But the strength of such a coating is very doubtful; it is enough for one locking connection to become loose for the entire floor to begin to warp and deform.

Laying parquet with glue It is considered more durable, but also less repairable. The base is generously lubricated with glue, then parquet flooring is laid, connecting with a tongue-and-groove system. This method is considered more labor-intensive and expensive due to the consumption of glue.

Installation with parquet adhesive and fastening with nails or self-tapping screws- the most durable and popular method. Such a floor is practically not subject to deformations, since they are restrained from all sides. But at the same time, it will no longer be possible to repair such parquet. All hope for a long service life.

How to lay piece parquet - stages of work

To make the pattern on the parquet smooth and beautiful, it is advisable to draw it on paper. It is important to take into account exact dimensions premises and parquet strips. If suddenly the drawing turns out that some row is not whole, then the drawing must be redone so that there are trimmed rows along the edges of the room, and only straight rows in the center.

The beginning of laying parquet also depends on the pattern. Let’s look at the example of a “Christmas tree”.

• First, we mark out the room and find its middle. In the middle of the room, from wall to wall, we stretch a cord along which we will navigate.
• We take two parquet planks and connect them in a herringbone pattern, inserting a tenon into the groove. Apply glue to the tenon, groove and ends of the planks.
• Then we coat the plywood base with glue, starting from the far wall. We use a notched spatula for this.

• We apply the “beacon herringbone” to the plywood so that the left edge of the planks presses the cord to the base, and the right edge of the planks rests against the cord.
• Press the planks against the plywood so as to squeeze out excess glue.
• Then we secure the planks with nails or self-tapping screws, screwing them into the groove of the plank at an angle of 45 ° and recessing the head. There must be at least 2 nail fastenings per 40 cm long plank.

Important! During the installation process, the master must sit so that the tongue of the planks is located towards him.

• Next, we lay the planks according to the pattern. We coat the plywood base with glue to the width of the plank, 1 - 1.5 mm thick.
• We apply the bar, inserting it into the end and longitudinal groove of the previous one, and finish it off with a rubber hammer. We fix it with self-tapping screws into the groove.

• First, we lay rows of planks in the “lighthouse herringbone” pattern, on the left and right.

• Then we lay a row of planks to the left of the “beacon herringbone”, then to the right. And so on we proceed, expanding the laying area until we reach the walls.
• We fill narrow spaces near the walls with planks cut to size.
• We insert wedges between the wall and the last row of parquet planks, leaving a gap of 2 - 3 mm.

All further work can be done after at least a week so that the glue has time to dry well. Although some experts recommend waiting six months, then the parquet planks themselves will take their final position.

Piece parquet is good because it can be laid in various patterns, placing the strips under different angles and in different sequences.

"Deck"- the easiest way to install. The planks are placed exactly, parallel to each other, offset by 1/3 or ½ of the length of the plank. The first plank is located near the wall; for a tighter fit, a tenon is sawed off from it.

"Herringbone"- the planks are connected to each other at an angle of 90 °. The planks should have two tenons - one on the longitudinal side, the second on the narrow end. There should also be two grooves on opposite sides. This method laying is quite complicated, since the rows must be perfectly aligned.

"Squares" and “braid” are formed quite easily. First, 2/3/4 planks of parquet are joined together and laid, then the other 2/3/4 planks are connected, but laid perpendicular to the first. This way the rows alternate, creating an organic geometric pattern.

"Braided" with inserts from different types of wood.

"Rhombuses" are laid from peculiar diamond-shaped parquet strips.

"Sheremetyevskaya Star" It is laid out from two types: rectangular planks and inclined diamond-shaped ones.

In addition to the above options, there are combinations of them with various shapes and patterns.

The price for laying block parquet depends on the layout of the planks. The simplest “deck” layout costs 7.5 - 8 USD. for 1 m2, “herringbone” will cost 9 USD. per meter, and artistic parquet can cost from 17 USD. up to 35 USD and even more. All these prices are indicated without preparatory work and further finishing - grinding and varnishing. The average cost of laying parquet with sanding and varnishing is 17 USD. for 1 m2.

Grinding is necessary in order to make the surface as smooth as possible and remove defects that arise during the work. Grinding can be done with special grinding machines or a regular grinder with a sandpaper wheel. Of course, the option with a grinder is more preferable, and there will be less dust.

The first and second time grinding is carried out large grain to cut off large uneven areas. Third time - fine grain to achieve smoothness of the coating and remove roughness that appeared after the first sanding. Then the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, removing all fine dust.

Puttying and priming of block parquet

It doesn’t hurt to fill all the cracks in the parquet, even if there are no visible large defects. The entire floor is rubbed with a special wood putty, all cracks and irregularities are filled. After drying, the floor must be sanded again with fine grain and excess putty must be removed. Then the floor is vacuumed again. To improve the adhesion of the varnish to the parquet and at the same time ensure that the varnish does not penetrate deep into the wood structure, the surface of the putty parquet floor is coated with a primer.

Opening a parquet floor with varnish or oil

The varnish protects the wood from moisture and mechanical stress. The total number of layers of varnish on parquet can be from 3 to 9. The more layers, the deeper the image. The varnish is applied with a roller to the entire surface at once, after which the floor is left to dry thoroughly for 24 - 36 hours. It is necessary to carry out varnishing work in clean soft shoes.

Important! While the varnish is drying, do not open windows, leave entrance doors open, turn on air conditioning, ventilation, or otherwise create a draft. The varnish should dry in as windless conditions as possible.

All subsequent layers of varnish are also applied with a roller with a drying interval of 24 - 36 hours for each layer. Last layer it must dry for at least a week so that you can walk on it carefully, and you can bring furniture into the room only after at least a month, or even two.

Parquet varnish can be glossy or matte. Glossy makes the floor shine, brightens the room and highlights the pattern. Matt lacquer used to reduce the brightness of the pattern on wood and to create an atmosphere of warm comfort.

Laying block parquet can cost approximately 2 to 4 times more than laying solid boards. But at the same time, the coating will be more refined and durable, and there is also less risk of squeaking. The key to success in creating beautiful, prestigious parquet is the patience of the craftsman.

Natural wood flooring is always beautiful, aesthetically pleasing and warm. Parquet is used to create an original and individual floor covering. Block parquet is used to create a unique, inimitable pattern, which is why it is widespread, even though its installation is a complex and time-consuming process. To lay parquet, you do not have to call specialists; after studying all the technology and strictly following all the instructions and rules, you can do all the work yourself.

Preparing the base

1) Deck- the most common installation method. All planks are positioned evenly and parallel to each other, offset by 1/3 of the length of the plank.

2) Herringbone— the slats are connected to each other at a special angle of 90 °. There are two tenons on the parquet planks - on the longitudinal and narrow end sides. And two grooves come from the opposite side. This method of laying is more difficult than the previous one, since all rows need to be perfectly aligned.

3) Squares and braid are easy to install. The first four planks of parquet are installed and connected together, the next planks are connected, but are already perpendicular to the first.
Thus, all rows alternate, and an organic, beautiful geometric pattern is obtained.

4) Network Comes with inserts from various types of wood.

5) Diamonds installed from peculiar diamond-shaped planks.

6) Sheremetyevo star It is made of two types: rectangular and inclined diamond-shaped planks.

In addition to the above types, there are variants with different shapes and patterns.

Sanding parquet

must be done to ensure that the surface of the parquet is as smooth as possible without any defects.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding is done using special sanding machines or a grinder.

Option with grinder is more preferable, and there will be much less dust.

The first two times, sanding is done with coarse grains to remove large irregularities. And the next time - with fine grain, to obtain a smoother coating and remove the roughness that arose after the first two sandings. After this, the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, removing fine dust.

Parquet putty

Do-it-yourself parquet putty should be done using special mixtures and tools.

It is necessary to fill all the cracks in the parquet, even if there are no large visible defects. The entire floor needs to be treated with a special wood polish, all cracks and various irregularities must be filled. After drying, the parquet floor will need to be sanded again and excess putty removed. Next you need to vacuum the floor. To improve adhesion to parquet, the entire treated floor surface must be coated with a primer.

Coating parquet with varnish or oil

Varnish and protects wood from moisture and from various mechanical influences. There can be from 5 to 9 layers of varnish. With more layers, the image turns out to be deeper. The varnish should be applied with a roller to the entire surface of the floor at once, after which the parquet should be left to dry for a day. You need to do varnishing work in clean and soft shoes.

You cannot open the windows while the varnish is drying; you can leave the entrance doors open or turn on the air conditioning.

Parquet varnish should dry in windless conditions.

All subsequent layers of varnish must also be applied with a roller at 24 hour intervals to allow complete drying.

The ninth layer should dry for at least a week, and you will be able to bring furniture into the rooms only after a month, and sometimes two.

Parquet varnish can be glossy or matte. Matte varnish is used to reduce the brightness of the pattern on wood. Gloss varnish will make the floor shine, and will make the room lighter and highlight the pattern.

Installing parquet can be several times more expensive than laying solid boards. But at the same time the coating will turn out to be more refined and of high quality.