How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands: methods and diagrams. ⚠ How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands: step-by-step instructions and nuances of performing the work How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands step-by-step instructions

Laminate is considered a reliable, beautiful and high-quality material that makes an attractive and durable floor covering. Often, residential property owners prefer to carry out the finishing work themselves, but you need to know how to lay laminate flooring yourself step-by-step instruction All works are presented below. This work can be performed throughout the apartment or in one room. It is allowed to lay the laminate on a concrete floor or other types of base that have been properly prepared for this. It is not difficult to lay laminate flooring yourself, but it is important to carefully study all the nuances of the process in advance in order to avoid mistakes that are simply impossible to correct.

It is impossible to identify any clear and strict rules for choosing the method of laying the material; it can be laid using any method preferred by the owner of the premises. The property owner must take into account his preferences; it is important to evaluate in advance the features of the premises intended for the work.

Different installations of laminate with your own hands, step-by-step video instructions of which are presented below, can be done in the following ways:

• along the room - this method is also called according to the direction of the light coming from the window. This technology for laying laminate flooring is classic. During the work process, all the material is used as much as possible, so residues are minimized. This laminate laying scheme involves installing each panel in one direction. By directing natural light from the window, an interesting type of coating is provided, in which the joints are practically invisible;
• perpendicular to natural light - this laminate laying technology is considered the most popular. Thanks to its use, a long coating life is guaranteed, and the laid laminated material can withstand various mechanical influences well. Here the joints are formed offset; however, the covering is laid in this way only in large rooms, since if this laminate laying technology is used in a small room, the space will be visually reduced even more;
• laying laminate flooring diagonally - this work is considered the most difficult, so a beginner is often unable to complete this process. This is due to the need to cut the first and last panel in each row at a specific angle. Therefore, laying laminate flooring diagonally is certainly accompanied by the appearance of a large amount of residue.

Thus, the types of laminate installation have significant differences, so it is important to decide in advance how to properly install the laminate. To do this, the characteristics of the premises, the preferences of the owners, as well as the need to create a unique design are taken into account. You can lay the laminate along or across the room, and the worker himself decides in which direction to lay the laminate. If you choose the right way to lay the laminate yourself, you will visually enlarge the limited space or hide important defects. Therefore, it is impossible to say exactly how to lay the laminate correctly: along or across, since everything depends on the existing conditions.

Foundation requirements

Before laying laminate flooring with your own hands, it is important to assess the condition and parameters of the existing base. In this case, there may be different types of bases, differing in characteristics and material of creation. The most common options are:

• concrete base- most often there is a need to find out how to lay laminate flooring on a concrete floor. This process is considered quite simple, but important point the ideal evenness of the screed is considered. Therefore, quite often you first have to pay attention to its alignment. Laying the laminate on the screed is allowed only after it has completely dried. If old screed flat, it is important to make sure that the base does not contain various defects, which include all kinds of cracks or chips. They must be removed before laying the laminate flooring. Minor defects are eliminated by creating a thin coating of special self-leveling mixtures;
• wooden base - it can be represented not only by boards, but also by other coverings. For example, many people wonder whether it is possible to lay laminate flooring on parquet. This work can only be carried out if the base is level, of high quality, dry and reliable. It is important to check the quality of the wooden base, as there should be no rotten boards or other significant problems. It is allowed to lay laminate flooring in an apartment even on plywood or other wood boards. It is important to make sure that there are no creaking boards on the wooden base, since they will definitely need to be replaced, and often the entire flooring will have to be redone. Often you need to sand the surface;
• laying laminate flooring on video on other surfaces - the question often arises whether laminate can be laid on linoleum or on tiles and other surfaces. It is permissible to perform this work, but the base must be level and reliable. Be sure to lay a suitable substrate in advance. The tile should not only be smooth, but also have a complete absence of breakaway areas.

Most often you have to deal with a concrete base that is not ideally even. In this case, laying the laminate with your own hands is allowed only after optimal leveling.
Concrete
Wooden
On linoleum
On the parquet
On tile

Surface leveling

Laminate flooring can only be installed on a perfectly flat floor. Therefore, it is often necessary to first perform certain actions related to leveling the base.

Unevenness of up to 2 mm per 2 sq. m is allowed. If you lay the material with your own hands on a concrete floor that has numerous unevennesses, the coating will warp and therefore will not last too long.

The process of leveling the base in the room itself is considered not too complicated, and it is implemented taking into account the recommendations:

• if there are cracks and seams, then they need to be expanded, after which they are completely filled cement mortar or self-leveling mixtures, and after they dry, the floor is sanded;
• final leveling involves pouring a full screed, and the concrete floor will be level and ideal for the planned work;
• leveling a wooden floor involves replacing damaged boards, and you can also create a flooring over the entire surface of the room using plywood or other boards, and laying the laminate on plywood is simple.

A high-quality floor on which the laminate flooring will be laid is considered fundamental to obtaining a high-quality result.
Alignment
Grinding

Substrate and insulating layer

Rules for laying laminate flooring indicate the need to use special insulation and underlay before creating the coating itself. The explanation of this rule is quite simple. The fact is that laminate is afraid of constant exposure to moisture, so it is important to prevent it from coming into contact with the concrete base.

For the insulating layer, a diffusion membrane or standard polyethylene is ideal, however, its thickness should be more than 5 mm, otherwise it will be easily damaged. What needs to be done with these films? They are spread over the entire surface of the floor, and all joints are taped. It is recommended that the film extend slightly onto the walls of the room.

In addition to insulation, you need to put a substrate that performs the most important functions:

• the soundproofing parameters of the coating are increased;
• the static floor is guaranteed;
• minor imperfections in the base are leveled;
• The coating is protected from moisture.

Laying laminate flooring on a concrete floor with an underlay is the right solution, and polystyrene foam or cork products can be chosen for the underlay. The slabs or rolls are simply laid out on the surface in an even layer, with the joints necessarily glued. If you need to lay laminate on a floor that already has linoleum covering, then there is no need for a backing.

Experts assure that flooring material must be laid with the indispensable use of soundproofing slabs, which increase the comfort of walking on the floor. They are usually represented by thin panels laid out along the entire perimeter of the base.
Combined
Expanded polystyrene Polyethylene
Cork

DIY laminate installation process

Is it important to know how to lay laminate flooring correctly? This process must be performed only in a certain sequence of actions, where each action is an important stage in obtaining perfect result. If you are installing laminate flooring yourself for the first time, then it is advisable to watch a detailed video tutorial in advance so as not to miss the most important nuances process.

Material calculation

Initially, it is important to decide how much material needs to be prepared so that finishing the room with laminate can be done without interruptions and problems. During the calculation, the following features are taken into account:

• what method will be used, and all methods of laying the laminate were indicated above, and the lowest consumption is when using the standard orientation;
• what is the area of ​​the room that needs to be laid with laminate;
• what area does each panel of material have?

The calculation itself is that the area of ​​the room is divided by the area of ​​one panel.

To lay laminate flooring on the floor without any interruptions, it is recommended to purchase material with a margin of 10 percent. You need to buy tiles from one batch, because then all the elements will have the same appearance, so there won’t be any distinct panels on the surface. Required measurements

Tools

How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands, step-by-step instructions assume initial preparation necessary tools for this work. These include the following equipment:

• a level or tape measure, as well as a corner, so that each tile of the coating is laid evenly and correctly;
• an electric jigsaw or a sharp construction knife, which ensures smooth and high-quality cutting of elements;
• a hammer to ensure that all tiles are securely fastened;
• sealant for laying laminate flooring.

Once all the tools are ready, the actual laying of the laminate begins with or without sealant.
Required Tools

Laying material

How to install laminate correctly? This process is carried out in ways that depend on the locking connections with which all panels are equipped during the production process. It is impossible to say how best to fix the tiles, since each method has its own characteristics:

• Lock locks are represented by special latches. Here the laminate is laid on the floor with your own hands in such a way that the ridge of one panel fits into the groove of the previous one. It is important to perform the process strictly in a vertical or horizontal position. To get a good joint, it is recommended to tap the tiles, and it is also possible to treat the seams with silicone or glue. Using a sealant for laying laminate will protect the seams from various types of harmful effects;
• Click locks are used in such a way that the ridge is not only inserted into the groove of the previous panel, but also snaps into place, for which it is important to apply significant force for this. If you figure out how to lay laminate flooring with your own hands using such locks, you will ensure a high-quality and reliable result that does not require additional fixation with glue or silicone.

It is allowed to assemble in separate rows or tiles. It is important to carefully understand how to lay laminate flooring with your own hands, so that this process is performed automatically and quickly, so your floor will be laid quickly and correctly.

The installation process itself is divided into stages:

• It is important to lay the first tile with the ridge against the wall, and it is important to leave a small distance between the covering and the walls, for which wedges are laid;
• another laminating element is attached to the first panel, after which this work continues until the end of the row;
• in order to know how to lay the material correctly, it is important to avoid differences in height or gaps;
• If a continuous installation is carried out, then the laminate is laid without thresholds.

Thus, properly laid material will provide a durable and reliable coating that is pleasant and comfortable to walk on. It does not matter whether the transverse or longitudinal installation method was chosen. For additional fixation, it is allowed to treat each seam with sealant. It is advisable to watch the laminate installation video in advance to avoid any mistakes.
Step-by-step laying of laminate
The panels must fit snugly against each other

Step-by-step instructions for working in difficult places

Often you need to figure out how to properly lay laminate flooring in unusual and difficult areas. In this case, an even and beautiful coating is guaranteed.

Near the pipes

Properly placed material near the pipes will be resistant to impact high temperature, and also no unsightly effect will be created. The whole process is carried out in stages:

• the distance from the pipe to the wall is determined, after which a mark is placed in the area where the hole will be located;
• the diameter of the pipe is measured, after which you need to take a tile in which the desired hole is created, and it should be slightly larger than the measured diameter;
• standard laying of the material is carried out, which ensures that the pipe is bypassed.

Installation of skirting boards

After completing the coating installation process, the installation of skirting boards begins. They must be selected in accordance with the colors and parameters of the laid material. It is best to choose designs with internal fastening, as they are really attractive and also do not require fasteners.

Different types of skirting boards require different types of fastening to the wall, so you should first read the instructions. If the wall is not too smooth, then it is better to opt for plastic skirting boards. Wooden models Suitable only for perfectly smooth walls.

When installing skirting boards, it is attached to special grooves, and you need to make sure that they are not at the same level as the gap between the laminate and the wall.

Thus, if you understand well how to lay laminate flooring, this process will not cause difficulties. Every person who has completed this work will leave only positive comments about its complexity, since in fact it is simple and efficient. This allows you to save on wages for hired workers, and also guarantees an excellent result, which will be provided by the required material.

So, the choice in favor of a laminated floor has been made, the material in the required quantity has been purchased and delivered to the installation site.

All that remains is to invite a team of craftsmen and wait for the work to be completed. Is it really necessary to pay extra money for installation of the coating?

A good owner is quite capable of coping with such a task, of course, if he has certain basic skills and the proper level of accuracy and attentiveness.

The technology of laying laminate flooring cannot be rushed. So that the installation of the coating itself does not cause difficulties, and so that the resulting floor lasts a long time without losing its operational and decorative qualities, it is necessary to carry out thorough preparation to work.

Assessing the condition of the floor surface

Usually, even before deciding to purchase a laminate, the condition of the “subfloor” is assessed and appropriate repair and restoration work is carried out.

By and large, a laminated floor can be laid on any surface subject to the main condition - it must be smooth, durable, and free from areas of dynamic deformation.

Otherwise, “weak” places will inevitably appear on the new coating, where surface integrity may be damaged, joints may diverge, and squeaks may appear.

Ideally, the floor should be strictly horizontal, with permissible differences of no more than 1-2 mm per linear meter.

• must not have significant cracks, gouges, peeling or crumbling areas. If it is impossible to correct the existing defects, installation on an uneven floor cannot be carried out. You'll have to update the screed - or. You can start laying the laminate only after the coating has completely hardened, in accordance with the established technology concrete works deadlines.
• If it is expected, its entire surface must be carefully checked. If areas of “playing” or creaking boards are identified, they must be repaired or replaced. Possible irregularities can be processed with a plane or sanding machine, and existing cavities can be filled with wood putty.
• You can lay laminate, provided that there are no holes or bumps, delamination of joints, through wear, or areas of destruction of the concrete base. This coating cannot be repaired; it will be easier to remove the linoleum and carefully prepare the base for the laminate.

If funds allow, ideal option will cover the entire floor surface of 10-12 mm, having previously laid them underneath with plastic film for water vapor barrier. The process of laying laminate flooring will be significantly simplified, and the sound and thermal insulation qualities of the floor will increase significantly.

We prepare the necessary materials and tools

Good advice to all novice craftsmen - before laying the laminate, after it is delivered from the store, it is worth unpacking the panels and letting them rest for 2-3 days in the room where the flooring will be carried out.

Equalizing the temperature and humidity levels of the material and the room will facilitate the installation process and eliminate the risk of warping of the laid coating.

This time can be devoted to preparing the necessary tools and materials.

First of all, you need to have it in stock required amount, regardless of the type of base.

The underlay not only has a good insulating effect - it has a shock-absorbing effect and prevents friction between the laminate board and the rigid base, which ensures the longevity of the floor covering.

The substrate can be polystyrene or polyurethane foam, with or without a foil heat-reflecting coating, produced in rolls or in the form of rectangular panels.

A more expensive, but very high-quality option is.

• The lining material is laid end-to-end, without overlapping, so to securely fix it to the floor you will need double-sided tape. You can also use regular adhesive tape to secure the rows of backing along the seams.
• It is worth immediately preparing a set of wooden wedges, 10-12 mm thick, for laying the laminate at the required distance from the walls of the room.
• You can cut laminated panels to the required size with a regular hacksaw or jigsaw.
• For high-quality joining of seams, you will need a hammer, preferably a rubber or wooden one (mallet). You can also use metal, but only through wooden spacers (bars).
• To install sections of the coating located near the walls, you need to have a small mount, or you can make a lever from a steel strip with a hook and a shoulder protruding upward, through which the force of the hammer can be transmitted.

In principle, the materials and tools for installation are ready. However, there are a few other things to consider before you get started.

How to avoid unwanted mistakes

It is best to precede the installation by drawing up a plan carefully drawn to scale - the required visibility and clarity will appear in further actions.

What is important to consider:

• When answering the question: how to lay laminate along or across, the following is important: the direction of the longitudinal joints should be parallel to the direction of the rays from the main source of natural light (windows) - in this case, the seams will be practically invisible.
• The laying direction is usually from the far left corner, straight. For the panels of the first row adjacent to the wall, the groove must be outward, and the tenon must be cut so that a smooth end is obtained. Longitudinal cutting of panels is best done using a circular or vertical hand-held power saw.
• On the plan, be sure to take into account that the last strip that completes the installation must have a width of at least 100 mm. If this does not work, you will have to reduce the width of the first row. The same should be taken into account if there are any internal corners in the room.
• The thickness of the laid coating should not interfere with the free opening of the doors. Sometimes you have to remove and trim the door leaf from below in advance.
• When planning, do not forget about the pipes passing through the thickness of the floor. To cut shaped grooves for them, you will definitely need a jigsaw.

After thinking through all the theoretical issues, you can proceed directly to installation.

Laminate installation process

Laminated floor panels are available in interlocking or adhesive versions. In turn, locks can be one of several systems - “Click”, “Lock”, “5G”.

How to lay laminate flooring correctly?

Each type of laminate has its own installation features.

Features of laying laminate flooring with the “Click” system

Currently, this is the most common locking system among laminate manufacturers and popular among craftsmen.

Its main difference from others is that you can insert a figured tenon into a complex groove only at a certain angle - for different manufacturers - from 25 to 45 degrees.

When the two panels are rotated in one plane, the lock securely snaps into place.

Another convenience is that it will not be difficult to disassemble the coating either. a lot of work When the panel is turned, the lock will “open”.

• Work begins with the assembly of the first row of panels. It is laid along the wall and wedged on both sides with 10-12 mm dies. This gap is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the laminate flooring. The assembly process is simple - insert a spike under the right angle, accurately aligning the edges, lowered the panel down until it snaps into place.
• The second row is assembled by ensuring that the transverse seams are displaced by half the length of the panels (30-40 cm is allowed). The strip along its entire length is assembled completely, and only then is it connected to the first row. This will most likely require an assistant. After fixing the second row, it is also wedged from the walls from both ends with blocks.
• Then the work continues in the same order until the room is completely covered.

It is imperative to monitor the cleanliness of the grooves so that no sawdust or other debris remains there.

If the material fits well, you most likely won't even need a hammer.

Features of laying laminate flooring with the “Lock” system

This type of lock system is gradually falling out of use, although inexpensive models laminates can also be produced with it.

The connection between the tenon and the groove occurs strictly in one plane, and the engagement occurs due to special protrusions and grooves.

The joint turns out to be much less durable, although disassembly, if necessary, is not easy - the tenon may be damaged.

1. When assembling the first row, after connecting the end sides of the panels, to ensure that the tenon is completely inserted into the groove, tapping with a hammer is carried out through a wooden spacer. Wedging the row away from the wall is done in the same way as in the case of the “Click” system.
2. The second row is assembled gradually, one panel at a time (also taking into account the displacement of the transverse seam by half the length of the board). The first panel is inserted into the groove of the first row, tapped with a hammer until it is completely connected, and then wedged away from the wall.
3. The second panel is tapped on both the long and short sides for reliable fastening of the longitudinal and transverse lock. Further work continues in the same order.
4. The most difficult thing is installing the last panel of the row adjacent to the wall. This will require either a pry bar or a curved lever.

Work is carried out in rows or “ladders”, to the end of the room. The last row is also carefully mounted with power transmitted through a lever.

It is very important to correctly measure the force of the hammer blow or the force on the lever so as not to damage the surface of the laminate or break the lock's tenons.

Features of laying adhesive laminate

Although such laminated panels are equipped with a tongue-and-groove system, they do not have a locking connection. Thus, the strength of the joint is ensured only by gluing.

Such floors are distinguished by good solidity and moisture resistance, but it will no longer be possible to dismantle or repair a separate section of the covering.

The installation process is more labor-intensive, and you will also need to purchase special glue. It is not recommended to use the usual PVA.

• The technology for laying laminate is generally similar to the “Lock” system - the sequence is the same. The difference is that each groove is generously coated with glue (in accordance with the instructions included with it). Excess glue that appears after the panels are joined is immediately removed with a clean, damp cloth.
• After laying the first three rows, be sure to take a break of at least 2 hours so that the glue has time to set. The same rule applies in the future, until full installation all laminate.

Master class on laying laminate flooring in video format

A video about how to properly lay laminate flooring, showing installation technology and preparatory work.

Let's finish the job

After the entire floor surface is covered with laminate, the spacer wedges at the walls are removed. The final stage will be the installation of skirting boards that will hide the expansion gaps.

It is important to remember that in no case are the skirting boards screwed to the laminated covering - only to the wall.

The transition to another covering at the junction of adjacent rooms can be covered with a decorative overlay or use.

In fact, the installation work is completed - you can move on to cleaning the room and decorating the interior of the room. As you can see, there is nothing overly complicated. The main thing is maximum attention, thoughtfulness of every action and the highest accuracy. Everything should work out!

Can flooring be inexpensive, reliable and easy to install? There is a material that combines these incompatible properties. This is a laminate floor. Therefore, it is the most popular among other types of coatings. To lay laminate flooring with your own hands, you need to know the characteristics of the material and the subtleties of working with it so that its service life is as long as possible.

The main question that arises when choosing a floor covering is whether it is possible to install it yourself? Yes, and very easy! You just need to know the technological features. We will tell you how to lay laminate flooring yourself, with step-by-step instructions. You will be able to carry out high-quality assembly yourself, without resorting to the expensive services of professional craftsmen. Our detailed article will introduce you to all the secrets and features of laying this flooring.

Buying laminate

Before buying laminate, you should familiarize yourself with the parameters that affect its quality and cost. It happens that a laminate of the same quality and characteristics differs significantly in price. This is because some manufacturers include a markup for branding and marketing gimmicks in the price.

So, what to look for? Laminate varies in classes, 21-23, 31-33, and thickness, from 4 to 12 mm. Optimal thickness This floor covering must correspond to the type of room where it is intended to be installed. The laminate class is indicated by two numbers, where the first indicates the type of room, and the second is the wear resistance coefficient, which implies impact resistance and moisture resistance. For example, if for bedrooms will do laminate is of minimal thickness and light load, then for the kitchen it is better to choose a higher class.

For a clearer understanding, let’s look at the classes in more detail:

The table shows:

• classes 21, 22, 23 are intended for household use , and 31, 32, 33 - commercial use;
• the greater the thickness, the higher the load level.

The class of laminate affects its cost. Therefore, the choice of increased thickness for home use not always justified. Yes, class 33 has maximum moisture resistance, wear resistance and shockproof properties. But its main purpose is public places with high traffic, and for the same kitchen in the house, class 23 laminate will serve perfectly.

There is also such a nuance as the manufacturer’s warranty. Manufacturer's warranty period may vary from 15 to 30 years. Sellers may cite this parameter as a strong argument in favor of coverage at a higher cost. Don't delude yourself. The plant guarantees the service life of the coating, the installation of which was carried out by certified craftsmen.

What type of surface can laminate flooring be laid on?

The base can be any previous coating - cement, tile, wood, linoleum. It is only necessary that this surface be hard and level. Therefore, you must first make sure that it is level enough. After which you can begin assembling the laminate. A deviation of 1 or 2 mm is permissible, no more. Only if you comply this condition the board will not sag, but will lie flat and tight. With a larger difference, the laminate board may crack or break. Check if there is a deviation using a rule or profile.

Important: laying laminate flooring is only possible on a clean, leveled base without cracks, unevenness or other defects.

Installation on concrete floor

It is best to lay laminate flooring on a concrete floor. A self-leveling base is perfect. If on concrete floor there are unevennesses that exceed the permitted standards, they need to be leveled. In the case of a cement floor, everything is easy - just pour a special screed. Concrete is therefore considered better basis for floor coverings.

If the concrete floor is smooth and clean need to lay down a backing. What types of underlays are there for laminate flooring?

• foamed polyethylene, budget option;
• expanded polystyrene;
• durable cork material;
• multilayer substrates from different materials specifically designed to perform this function.

If there is a need to level the base, it must first be prepared for filling with a self-leveling mixture - cleaned and primed. The thickness of the first poured layer must be at least 10 mm. When the surface has dried, re-priming is carried out and another layer is poured. It is better to close the room for a day or two to avoid the appearance of defects on the surface of the screed.

The floor boards should be laid after the filled mortar has reached at least 50% strength. I would like to note that the screed dries completely in 70-80 days. You don’t have to wait for 100% drying if you use plastic film under the substrate.

After reading the entire material, you will know how to lay laminate flooring on a concrete floor yourself.

Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor

One of the frequently asked questions is: is it possible to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor? In general, this is risky. Especially if the wooden covering is aged. According to technological standards, it would be more correct to remove it, then replacing it with a full-fledged concrete base. In this case, you will need to do everything necessary work on bedding, thermal insulation, preparation of the reinforcing belt. Only after this can you make a concrete screed. Once the mixture has hardened, you can begin laying the laminate panels.

Until the filling is done, it is possible to install a heated floor system. Is it possible to lay laminate flooring on heated floors? Yes, if used special type laminate board. It does not deteriorate from heating.

Completely replacing the old wood covering with concrete is a very expensive undertaking, both in terms of cost and time. Therefore, they usually prepare a wooden surface for installation of laminate flooring without replacement. Unless, of course, the floor is completely old. If the joists and boards are damaged, it is better to re-lay them or make a screed.

Minuses wooden covering as a base:

• parts can “walk” in height;
• there is a high probability of squeaking when walking;
• the logs are drying up.

There is no need to lay laminate flooring on a creaking base. We need to find and fix the loose planks. They can be additionally screwed or nailed.

Preliminary preparation of the wooden base begins with cutting off excess pieces protruding above the surface. The cracks need to be filled with putty.

Before laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor, you need to lay leveling material on it. Typically plywood is used for this. The optimal thickness of the plywood sheet for leveling is 10-12 mm. Plywood sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws. If there are differences greater than permissible, you will need slats of various thicknesses to level the plywood.

It will be better if the joints of the plywood sheets do not coincide at the corners. This way the load on them will be distributed evenly. More sheets cannot be fitted closely. Wood has the ability to change. Temperature and air humidity affect the condition of the tree. Therefore, there must be small gaps between the sheets of plywood. They are needed to avoid distortions if the tree begins to “move” - dry out or expand.

If the wooden floor has not been damaged and the plywood sheets are laid evenly, such a base for the laminate will last a long time.

Laying on linoleum

In many apartments, linoleum is laid on the floor. And when it comes time to change the floor covering, a completely reasonable question arises: is it possible to lay laminate flooring on linoleum? Usually there are no contraindications to this. There is even some positive aspect. Linoleum provides additional sound insulation.

But there are cases when should not be used linoleum as a base:

1. Uneven floor. If there are holes, swellings, or large differences, it is better to remove the linoleum and pay attention to leveling.
2. The covering is very old. Linoleum that has begun to deteriorate will swell. This can ruin the laminate flooring, not to mention the aesthetics.
3. Highly soft linoleum is undesirable as a base. This is fraught with the appearance of squeaks on the laminate when walking.

Underlay for laminate

On the prepared base, leveled and cleaned, you must first lay the substrate. the main role What it does is protect the interlocking connections of the laminate from the destructive effects of external loads. This is achieved by absorbing steps on the floor and redistributing pressure on it.

The substrate also has additional properties:

• hides small irregularities of acceptable sizes;
• muffles noise;
• insulates.

Types of substrate

Foamed polyethylene. This is the most affordable type. Therefore, it is very popular. The advantages include increased moisture resistance and low cost. The polyethylene foam backing is produced in rolls, which simplifies working with it. The low price justifies its obvious disadvantages: low thermal conductivity, sensitivity to ultraviolet rays, lack of sound insulation.

Polyethylene foam short-lived. He quickly loses his shape. The level of damping, or cushioning, in other words, decreases over time. Because of this, the locking connections will quickly become loose. In short, polyethylene foam significantly reduces the lifespan of a laminate floor. Therefore, it is advisable to use it only under a cheap coating with a comparable service life.

Important: polyethylene foam backing is only suitable for cheap laminate flooring.

Expanded polystyrene. This type of substrate is average in cost and quality. Foamed polystyrene has the ability to hold its shape well and muffle noise. The surface of the substrate has a high density, so it smoothes out small irregularities well. In terms of cost, polystyrene foam is more expensive than polyethylene, but more affordable than cork backing. Release form: slabs and rolls. Due to its reasonable cost combined with good properties, this material is used more often than others. The only argument against is the impossibility of laying it on a heated floor.

It is recommended as a substrate if there is a heated floor system. It has the best properties required for a substrate. The price is a little cheaper than cork. The properties of the substrate directly affect the service life of the laminate. Therefore, buying a good underlay for expensive laminate flooring is a justified investment.

Important: a foiled polyurethane laminate underlay is suitable for heated floors.

It is made from natural cork chips. Release form: rolls. This is probably best substrate for flooring. Undoubted advantages: durability, resistance to loads, high thermal insulation properties, good noise insulation. There are also disadvantages. Cork substrate does not like heat and moisture. In addition, it must be laid on a perfectly flat surface due to its low leveling ability. When laying, the joints must be taped with tape so that there are no gaps.

The type of premises where cork can be used are living rooms, without heated floors, where there is low or normal humidity and there is no risk for the covering to be flooded with water. Despite its excellent properties, natural cork laminate underlays are rarely used. This is due to the high price.

Bitumen-cork on cellulose. The cost is close to cork. Suitable for use with underfloor heating systems.

Important: the best and, at the same time, the most expensive substrate is natural cork. But it is not suitable for heated floors.

In addition to the above types of substrate, many new products appear on sale. Basically, these are little-known materials that have not undergone any testing. Therefore, it is better to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. They are usually indicated in the instructions on the package.

Is plastic film needed under laminate flooring?

The main purpose of the polyethylene film under the substrate when laying the laminate is protection against moisture penetration from the inside. If there is a basement underneath the floor high humidity, the use of film is simply necessary. It is laid under the substrate with an overlap and taped with tape.

Polyethylene film for laminate

There is also a risk of moisture appearing underneath when laying on something that is not completely dry. cement screed. This is a problem with almost all modern new buildings from monolithic concrete. The screed takes more than 2 months to dry. Many are not ready to wait that long. Even expensive, highly wear-resistant laminates deteriorate from moisture and begin to swell and creak. Therefore, it is advisable to use polyethylene film.

Important: many laminate flooring manufacturers recommend always using plastic film during installation.

How to lay the underlay

Now let's look at how to properly lay the underlayment under the laminate.

You need to start laying out or rolling out the backing material along the wall from which the installation will take place. As a result, the substrate should cover the entire length of the floor along the desired wall. It is better not to cover the entire floor of the room with a substrate at once, so as not to walk on it. The next strip along the wall should be laid as needed.

The joints must be tightly aligned and taped. If there are small gaps between the joints, it's okay. Not allowed laying the substrate overlaps, so the laminate should evenly adhere to it.

To speed up the process, the edges of the substrate are sometimes secured with a construction stapler. But it’s better to spend a little more time gluing with tape than to then listen to the not-so-pleasant sounds of staples rubbing against a laminate board.

Important: it is forbidden lay the underlay overlapping.

DIY laminate installation tools

Before the beginning installation work To lay laminate flooring, you need to prepare all the necessary tools.

Tools

1. Hammer and hammer. They are needed to adjust the laminate panels to each other. A block of wood is suitable as a finishing tool. Do not knock directly on the panels, as the locks may be damaged.
2. Stationery knife. Needed to open packages.
3. Square, pencil, tape measure. Will be needed for marking.
4. Wedges. They will be needed to maintain the required gap between the wall and the covering.
5. Montage. Using a special bracket, the boards of the last row are laid.
6. Electric jigsaw. A jigsaw is needed for sawing boards. You can even saw any laminate hand saw, which is at hand. Small cuts are required - the board is sawn across.

How to cut laminate correctly

When cutting, the laminate should be face up. This will prevent burrs from forming along the edges of the front surface.

To make the cutting line smooth, use metal guides - rulers and squares.

The last row requires special attention. Boards for this row almost always have to be sawn lengthwise.

Laying scheme

A frequently asked question is how to lay laminate flooring, lengthwise or across the room. There is no special rule in this regard. There is only one subtlety, the observance of which is recommended, and only for visual effect. If you are laying laminate boards perpendicular to the window opening, then the light will fall along the seams, and they will become less noticeable. Laminate flooring can also be laid across. In this case, the joints of the boards will simply be more visible. Laying it diagonally looks very nice and visually expands the room. But this option is more complex - it requires skill, and there will be more waste.

In general, during installation the most difficult parts are the assembly of the first and last rows. When laying the first one, you must maintain gaps along the wall. In the last row it will take a lot of time to saw the boards and join them in doorway with covering in another room.

The main rule correct installation laminate - displacement of seams. Each transverse joint should be 400 mm from the next. This way the load will be optimally distributed over the entire surface, and the coating will be more wear-resistant.

The assembly of the next row always begins with a piece of the previous plank. Each even row should begin with such an incomplete piece. This assembly option is considered traditional. It is called "half-board offset layout." Odd rows with this option always start with a whole panel.

Important: the distance between the transverse seams of adjacent panels must be at least 40 cm.

You can also lay the laminate board with a ladder. When installing this way, the minimum permissible seam displacement must be observed. Usually this parameter is indicated on the packaging. The first row starts with a whole plank, the next - with 1/3 of the full length, the third - 2/3. You will get a kind of ladder.

Instructions for laying laminate flooring yourself

The installation technology for this flooring is always the same. There are only peculiarities when connecting boards depending on the type of lock.

Now let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to lay laminate flooring with your own hands.

1. First you need to prepare, vacuum and level the surface of the base.
2. When the surface is cleaned and leveled, if necessary, lay overlapping polyethylene film. The edges are secured with adhesive tape.
3. Now the substrate is laid out or rolled out in strips along the desired wall. The joints must fit tightly. They are also sealed with adhesive tape.
4. Wedges are placed around the entire perimeter. Their thickness is 10 mm. They will create a small gap between the floor and the walls. Due to this, air circulates around the floor covering. This will help prevent damage to the laminate when the room is very hot or humid.
5. The first row should begin to be laid on the side opposite the door. All panels of the first row should rest against the indentation wedges. Each panel fits into the adjacent one.
6. The last plank of the row may be too long. It needs to be trimmed, taking into account the prepared indents.
7. The next strip of panels should start with half or a third of the board, according to the diagram.
8. All rows are laid sequentially.
9. The boards of the final row will need to be cut lengthwise. The main thing is not to cut off the tenon.

If the shape of the room is geometrically correct, installation difficulties should not arise.

Important: the laminate must adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room before installation. Therefore, a couple of days before the intended installation, you need to bring the packages with the flooring into this room.

How to eliminate joints between multi-level coverings of adjacent rooms

We looked at how to properly lay laminate flooring. But there is one more important point.

Often during installation, multi-level joints are formed between the laminate and the threshold or flooring of adjacent rooms. How to deal with them?

They are easily neutralized using thresholds. If you need a straight joint, a metal threshold will do. It is the most durable. For joints that are curved, there are flexible thresholds.

Types of thresholds:

• single-level- the most common, designed for joining laminate flooring in adjacent rooms;
• multi-level- used for joining a laminate floor to another surface, the level of which differs in height;

• unilateral- used for joining with doors;

• angular- for connecting coverings at an angle of 90 degrees.

Installation methods depending on the type of lock

Installation methods for laminate flooring depend on the type of lock on the board, Click or Lock. It is impossible to confuse them, because the manufacturer indicates on the packaging which connection is used.

Laying method with locking connection Click

This technology involves assembly without a hammer. The boards are assembled sequentially. Each subsequent panel must be brought to the already installed one at an angle of 45 degrees. Then the tenon must be inserted into the groove, pressing lightly. The castle got its name because characteristic feature. When the tenon fits into the groove, it makes a clicking sound. With this technology, the panels are first fastened with lateral connections, and then longitudinal ones.

Laying with lock joint Lock

This method has differences from the previous one. The tenons are inserted into the groove from the side, and you can’t do without a mallet and a hammer. This technology involves first assembling rows and then connecting them. Boards of the same row must be laid out evenly on the floor, parallel to each other.

So, we looked in detail at how to lay laminate flooring with your own hands. It remains to clarify one more point. Connection " tongue and groove» does not make the floor surface airtight. Water can still get between the seams. However, special adhesive can significantly reduce the likelihood of water getting inside the coating.

Glue is applied to the spikes immediately before assembly. But this method has a significant drawback. The resulting floor covering will become monolithic. If necessary, replacing several boards will no longer be possible.

Today laminate is one of the most popular finishing materials for the floor. Thanks to protective coating, it practically does not fade, is resistant to pollution and is not afraid of chemicals.

Laying this type of flooring is not difficult. After all, special adhesive mixtures and nails are not needed for fastening. A modern locking system connects the panels to each other without the need for installation to the base.

Required Tools

Before you begin laying laminate flooring, make sure you have all the necessary tools:

• pencil;
• ruler or square;
• roulette;
• mallet and hammer;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• spacer wedges;
• mounting bracket.

You will need a pencil, ruler and tape measure for markings. Hacksaw - for sawing panels. If there are many obstacles in the room (pipes, partitions, etc.), it is better to buy a jigsaw - it will be faster and more convenient to work with. A hammer with a hammer will be needed to fit the laminate boards. Spacer wedges must be installed between the wall and the laminate. The bracket will be needed to lay the panels of the last row.

Surface preparation

Although the process of laying laminate flooring itself is simple, surface preparation in this case requires high requirements. The final result largely depends on this stage. If you don’t want the laminate to “wave”, swell or split, pay enough attention to the preparation.

The surface on which the laminate is laid must be flat! A height difference of only 2 millimeters is allowed. Anything more will have to be corrected.

It is best to lay the laminate on a dry concrete surface. But installation on a wooden floor is also allowed. It is important that the boards are level, do not creak or become loose. Otherwise, you will have to re-lay the floor or fix the old boards. Otherwise, you will not achieve a good result. Another way is to level the surface using plywood. Wooden surface, especially old ones, should be treated with an antiseptic before laying the laminate.

Laminate can even be laid on top of linoleum if the floor underneath is level and the material itself has not begun to deteriorate. To prevent the laminate from squeaking, the linoleum should not be too soft.

1. Cleaning. Be sure to clean the floor - preferably sweeping and vacuuming.
2. Film. If you live in a private house or on the ground floor, it is best to waterproof it. Place plastic film on the surface.
3. Substrate. To extend the life of the laminate, a special underlay is laid before installation. It will not allow the coating to be pressed under the steps of household members, and will also become an excellent sound insulation and insulation material.

Step-by-step process for laying laminate flooring

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring is so popular because even a beginner can do it. It's simple, you just need to follow some instructions:

Step 1. Perform preliminary accurate calculations. It is important that the plank of each next row of laminate moves at least 30 cm. And the width of the last row should be more than 5 cm. You may have to file the panels of the first and last row in width.

Step 2. When the surface is prepared and the calculations have been made, bring the packaged laminate to the room where you will be renovating. Do not unpack. Leave it for two days to “acclimatize.” This procedure is necessary for the material to adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room.

Step 3. Take the necessary tools.

Step 4. Start laying the laminate. Be sure to insert wedges between the first row and the wall. Attach laminate panels to each other as indicated in the instructions on the package. There are two ways - at an angle of 45 degrees and in parallel, depending on the type of lock.

If you don’t want the seams to be noticeable, there is a proven scheme: lay the panels parallel to the window so that the light falls along the seams.

Step 5: At the end of the row, cut the board to fit the length of the remaining space. Mark the cutting area with a pencil, then use a hacksaw or jigsaw to make the cut.

Step 6: The rest of the panel will be the first on the next row. To fit the boards, use a hammer and a hammer, which can be replaced with a beam.

Step 7. For convenient installation of the last row, use special brackets.

Step 8. After installation, remove the spacers.

Step 9. Leave the laminate for a day.

Step 10: Attach the baseboard for the floor. Mount it to the wall only. Do not attach the baseboard to the laminate under any circumstances.

Some types of laminate are joined in entire rows. That is, first you need to connect the boards of the row together, and then the rows together. The connection method must be specified by the manufacturer.

Laying schemes for laminate flooring

There are three popular laminate laying schemes:

• standard;
• diagonal;
• chess.

The first scheme is the most common. It is used because it is simple and economical. The laminate is laid perpendicular to the window. The light falls in such a way that the seams are not visible.

The diagonal laying method visually increases the space of the room. For guidance, stretch a fishing line. In this case, 15-20% more material is consumed.

Checkerboard styling is the choice of perfectionists. One main rule is used here: the new row is shifted exactly half of the previous panel. As a result, the boards are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. It will also take more material than using the standard method.

• To ensure that there is no gap between the laminate and door frame, use the following method: insert the laminate panel into the hole previously made by the renovator. The hole should be so thin that the board fits snugly.
• It is best to make holes for pipes at the joints. To do this, measure the required distance from the wall to the pipe (taking into account the indentation for the wedges), join the panels and drill a hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the pipe. Then secure the laminate around the pipe.
• There is an easier way - calculate the distance from the wall, make a round hole in the laminate with a slightly larger diameter and use a jigsaw or hacksaw to cut out a small gap. Lay the panel and insert the sawn segment into the remaining rectangular hole. If you couldn’t make the perfect hole in the laminate for the pipe, no problem. There are inexpensive decorative overlays, which can be selected by color.
• If you are installing laminate throughout your apartment, be sure to leave seams between rooms. This will allow the coating to “breathe”. The seams are closed with special thresholds.
• Do not install laminate flooring in rooms with high humidity. This material is definitely not for the bathroom!
• Do not lay laminate flooring on a wet screed. Moisture may cause the coating to deteriorate.
• Do not hit the laminate directly with a hammer. Be sure to use a hammer or an ordinary one for adjustment. wooden block. Otherwise, the locks can be damaged, and installing the next row will be problematic.
• When cleaning laminate flooring, do not leave a lot of water. It is better to wipe the floor dry so that there are no traces left.

Installing laminate flooring is easy if you follow the instructions. The main thing is to prepare the surface, and then, without haste, carry out the installation. With the right approach, a laminate floor will definitely decorate your home!

IN Lately Many homeowners choose laminate flooring. This coating is popular due to its high performance data and low price. Anyone can install laminate flooring if they understand the technology. This article will help you quickly and correctly lay laminate flooring with your own hands.

6 conditions for laying laminate

There are several important rules When laying laminate flooring, these must be taken into account:

1. The room must be heated, without sharp changes temperature conditions. Humidity should be a minimum of 40-50%, air temperature should not drop below fifteen degrees.
2. Laminate flooring can be laid either on a concrete or wooden base, the most important thing is that the subfloor is level. If there are differences in height, it should be placed under the laminate coating, otherwise the coating will not last long.
3. It is not recommended to lay laminate on a “warm floor” system, since it is powered by electricity; this is not permissible, because the top varnished layer of the laminate will begin to deform under the influence of high temperature. If the owner of the room does not want to give up a heated floor, then a hydraulic system is perfect here. It is able to properly distribute heat over the entire surface of the floor evenly, thereby preventing overheating of the laminate.
4. Laying the panels with your own hands is allowed only two days after they are stored in the room being repaired. This is necessary for the laminate to adapt to temperature conditions premises and subsequently did not change in size.
5. When purchasing material, the packaging must be intact, and there must be no cracks or chips on the laminate.
6. It is necessary to leave small gaps of ten centimeters around the perimeter of the entire room, since the laminate flooring must certainly be “floating”.

Advice: to ensure that the laminate does not lose its properties for many years, it is necessary to lay a thin layer of film under it, in addition to the backing; it will protect the material from excess moisture and will allow it not to deteriorate.

Installation materials

The DIY installation technique is quite simple, but in order to do it well, you need to have auxiliary materials on hand. Wedges can be bought both in the store and on the construction market, even specifically for installing laminate flooring; you definitely need to buy them for the convenience of installing the floor covering.

If you want to save money, you can use small pieces of drywall instead of wedges; the most important thing is that the size of these wedges is the same and is approximately fifteen millimeters.
The glue will be used exclusively to secure the laminate along the edge of the floor covering; the laminate will not be glued to the base.

It is better to purchase more material, since you cannot insure against mistakes, especially if you are doing such work for the first time.

When installing laminate flooring, you must have the following on hand:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Electric jigsaw.
3. Rubber hammer.
4. Construction corner.
5. Roulette.
6. Construction knife.
7. Bar.
8. Pencil.

Tip: it is necessary to take into account that the size and amount of material in the packages may vary depending on the manufacturer. Often, the laminate in one package is enough to fill a space of 2 m, but sometimes there are boxes with the amount of material for 2.7 m.

Preparing the subfloor

Concrete base

On a subfloor of this type, apply finishing coat, it dries for about a month, only after that it is allowed to continue working. If the owner of the house is going to change the old covering on a concrete base, then first all the floor material is removed, then the floor is carefully examined and if there are any chips or cracks in the concrete, then the floor is restored, for example, with a self-leveling mixture.

Main! A vapor barrier layer must be placed on the concrete base.

Wooden floor

As a rule, wooden floors cannot have a flat base, so they are usually leveled by sanding, and then plywood is laid on top using a technology no larger than 6 mm. You can, of course, use other available materials, such as chipboard or fiberboard, but plywood is the most inexpensive in this segment, and in terms of performance data it is even better than others.

Linoleum or tiles. These two floor coverings are quite suitable for a base for a laminate, they do not need to be leveled or removed, you just need to correctly lay the backing for the laminate on them and start producing self-installation according to the usual principle.

Options and installation methods

• Adhesive connection.

This DIY installation method uses a tongue and groove system. Glue is applied to the edge of the laminate and the two panels are glued to each other. This installation option is suitable for rooms with heavy loads. Adhesive joints are used quite rarely in practice due to the complexity and labor-intensiveness of the installation process.

• Fastening the laminate using modern Click locks.

This installation option is the most popular; it is also done using a tongue-and-groove fastening, but at an angle of 30. When the board is lowered, it is firmly fixed with a lock.

• The arrangement of the wooden floor is secured with Lock locks.

This option is suitable for rooms with a flat floor, however, if the laminate is laid not by a specialist, but by an ordinary person, he can damage the material and it will become unusable. A hammer is involved in the installation process; it is used to hammer the panels joint into joint, and here it is important not to overdo it.

Laminate layout options

For an unusual interior solution, laminate can be laid not only in the classical way - towards the light, but also laid out with a beautiful pattern, placing it diagonally or perpendicularly.

1. Classic styling. When you come into the room, you trim the last panel and throw its remains at the beginning of the second line. Then the last lamella is also trimmed, and the remainder is thrown onto the next line. And so you need to continue until the room runs out, you get a classic layout.

It is usually used in office premises And large apartments, because this installation option is the most economical. Laying is done from the window opening towards the light. Pieces of material, after finishing laying the row, are used for a new one.

If you plan to place a bed and a wardrobe in the room, it is quite possible to save on material in these places - using short pieces of laminate, they will still not be visible under the furniture.

2. Checkerboard. By appearance This installation option resembles brick laying. Checkerboard installation is an expensive pleasure and, as a rule, after completion of the work approximately 15% of waste remains, which is a lot. This option for arranging the floor cannot be called economical, but in terms of the beauty of the floors - Chess board is the best.

3. Laying diagonally. This is a classic masonry, which must be done at an angle of 45 degrees. It looks impressive in rooms with a corner door; there is also a lot of waste from such masonry, within 15%, and if the room is long and narrow, then even better.

Step-by-step installation instructions

To make it easier to understand what happens independent process installation, we divided it into several stages of step-by-step instructions.

Installation stages

First stage

Marking the floor “dry”, for this it is necessary to spread the laminate over the entire area of ​​​​the room. During the installation process of the first row, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 8 mm. To make gaps easier, you need to drive in special wedges, which can also be bought on the construction market.

You need to know that the laminate installation technology involves fastening using a tongue-and-groove system. The panels cannot be glued to the substrate, this will inevitably lead to distortion of the material, and the laminate can be thrown away.

Second phase

On both sides of the wall and the floor slab, you need to drive two nails, between which you will subsequently need to pull a strong thread. This is necessary so that the first row of panels lies as evenly as possible. Be sure to lay the laminate in the initial row with the side with the tongue facing the wall.

Look carefully at how you will trim the lamellas; sometimes four blanks are enough for the entire length of the room. If you install the entire strip, you will end up with one joint everywhere throughout the room. To prevent this from happening, in next lane The lamella will need to be cut in half and scattered to the sides.

Third stage

After directly laying the first row, plastic film is placed on the entire floor surface. It is recommended to lay out the film gradually as you work.

Fourth stage

After laying the first protective layer, the shock-absorbing layer is installed. To do this, you can purchase foamed polyethylene. The underlay for the laminate is the main element of the design, as it provides excellent sound insulation, and this directly affects the comfort in the room. The underlay must be laid in the same way as waterproofing.

Fifth stage

The slats have locks both external and internal. According to the technology, PVA glue is applied to the external lock; many craftsmen do not do this, but according to the instructions, we recommend laying the laminate this way, because over time this coating dries out and begins to separate at these joints.

Before installing the laminate, you need to insert a little glue into the first panel (end), while the groove should be filled with glue, after which you need to insert the second laminate panel into this groove. If, after fixing the panels, glue has formed on the surface, it must be removed immediately with a spatula.

Sixth stage

After laying the initial row of laminate, the fun begins: you need to lay the last panel on top of the penultimate one so that the tenon rests tightly against the wall.

Seventh stage

It is important to monitor the floor level; if any unevenness is found, they will need to be corrected with wedges, raising or lowering them to the required height.

Eighth stage

After leveling out all the errors, you need to take a break so that the glue has time to dry. To do this, you need to postpone work for an hour.

Ninth stage

The ends should be offset by about thirty centimeters from the first row. Each subsequent row must be laid in the same way as described above. Be sure to remember that the substrate must be overlapped 5 centimeters on the previous strip.

Installation, installation of skirting boards

The main feature of the correct arrangement and installation of skirting boards on laminate flooring is the complete absence of fasteners to the panels themselves and the floor itself.

Along the entire perimeter, the plinth is attached directly to the wall. Different variants of this material They also have different fastening options, so before work you need to read the recommendations and instructions of the baseboard manufacturer, and only then begin the fastening process.

It is worth noting that the plinth, as a rule, follows the outline of the walls, so if they are crooked, the plinth will also lead in different directions, so it is always recommended to buy a plastic plinth, it certainly will not let you down. At correct installation there should be no baseboards, gaps between the walls and then at all.

When laying wires under the baseboard, be sure to tuck them into a special groove; wires should not get into the gap or directly into the laminate. At the end of the process of laying the panels, it is necessary to glue soft pads to all the legs of your furniture so that they do not damage the new surface of the flooring.

Follow all the above rules for proper care of laminate flooring, and then it will serve you for many years. By following these simple tips, you can install laminate flooring indoors on your own without the help of professionals, saving quite a bit of money for the work of a specialist.

And at the end of the article I would like to give a little advice: always take laminate one pack more than the area of ​​your room. Material will always be needed for all sorts of trimming, for those moments when a lock breaks or something else. You will have a reserve pack from which you can easily get material if you need it.

Watch the video - a master class on laying laminate flooring: