How to make your own manual wood splitter. How to make a cleaver with your own hands? Types of devices for chopping wood: drawings, instructions

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Before the beginning heating season owners wood stoves and solid fuel boilers are stocked with firewood. Buying or preparing logs in the forest and then bringing them to your own yard is not big problem. And cutting round timber into logs using a chainsaw or a circular saw will not be difficult. Many hours of exhausting labor creeps up in the form of a heavy cleaver, wedges and a hammer, with which the logs are split into logs.

Such an unproductive and labor-intensive method simply could not be ignored by home craftsmen trying to mechanize this work. One of the devices that can easily and quickly chop wood is cone splitter. Considering its simple design and the ability to use improvised materials in the work, we suggest making a mechanical screw cleaver with your own hands. In addition, everything that is required for this can be purchased in the online store of accessories for screw wood splitters at manufacturer’s prices. The catalog contains cones different diameters, fastenings and ready-made kits that only need to be attached to the walk-behind tractor or engine.

Screw cleaver - what is it?

The simple design of the cone log splitter is very effective if you need to chop several cubic meters of firewood

You can split wood without much effort using a screw splitting splitter. To understand how this device works, it is enough to remember how, in the process of unsuccessfully screwing a screw into wooden slats or a bar, these objects split at the point of physical impact. It’s easy to combat this phenomenon - just pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw, and it will go like clockwork. The principle of splitting wood when screwing in a screw was used by home craftsmen in the design in question. But a simple screw does not move the fibers apart enough, so it was modified by greatly increasing the taper and reducing the ratio of thread depth to tool diameter. The result is a screw, which is a symbiosis of a wedge and a self-tapping screw. The device is easily screwed into wood thanks to the threaded part and breaks it along the fibers due to the multiple increase in the diameter of the tool.

Screw log splitter diagram

Depending on the design of the drive, there are several types of screw splitters. In some, the screw is mounted directly on the shaft of the electric motor. In this case, the requirements for the power unit are quite stringent - the electric motor must be low-speed (no more than 500 rpm) and sufficiently powerful (at least 3 kW).

The scheme in which the cone is installed directly on the electric motor shaft is suitable only for low-speed power plants

In other screw splitting schemes, electric motors of any type are used, and a reduction in rotation speed is achieved through the use of mechanical gearboxes, belt and chain drives. In this case, a pulley (sprocket) of small diameter is installed on the shaft of the power unit, and a large one is installed on the shaft of the wood splitter cone. The ratios of their sizes are selected so as to reduce the rotation speed of the electric motor to an acceptable 300 - 500 rpm. Sometimes, when using high-speed motors, it is impossible to achieve this without significantly increasing the diameter of the driven sprocket (pulley). In this case, an intermediate shaft and a double (stepped) transmission are installed.

Simplify the design as much as possible mechanical cleaver while maintaining high performance, it is possible by installing an electric motor with a gearbox

All structural parts are mounted on a durable frame, which is equipped with a folding table for ease of work.

The advantages of cone splitters include:

simplicity of design;
the possibility of manufacturing at home (almost all components, except for the cone, can be found in your own backyard);
high equipment performance;
low installation cost;
operation of the unit does not require operator qualifications.

Unfortunately, simple and reliable design screw cleavers are not without their drawbacks. A huge disadvantage of a cone log splitter is that wood with intertwined fibers is an insurmountable obstacle for its gimlet, so root and particularly knotty logs will have to be cut in a different way. The second drawback is the incomplete separation of the logs into logs. Often you have to finish cutting a large log into two separate parts by hand, and not everyone can do this. I would also like to note that it is impossible to make a log splitter cone without using a lathe. Of course, this can only be partially listed as a disadvantage, since there are many offers on the Internet for both the manufacture and sale of screws of any size.

Requirements for a cone splitter

The design of the screw splitter should ensure not only high reliability and performance, but also safety during operation. Therefore, when choosing the design of the unit and its manufacture, it is important to adhere to the requirements for equipment of this type and the recommendations of the craftsmen who have tested the machine in action.

Flexible transmission is a simple and affordable way to change the speed of rotation of the propeller when using high-speed electric motors

the electric motor power should be in the range from 2 to 4 kW;
to reduce the number of revolutions, it is recommended to use a gearbox or flexible transmission;
rotation speed of the cone screw - no more than 500 rpm;
the machine must be equipped with an on/off button (magnetic starter) and a residual current device (RCD);
the cone shaft is mounted on bearing supports;
the cone must have a persistent thread;
when driving with a belt, it is better to use double-ribbed pulleys and a pair of V-belts;
During operation, the supply of logs must be carried out with their vertical orientation, otherwise the screw may jam and damage the installation.

You should not follow the lead of the “craftsmen” who offer the simplest design of a wood splitter, in which a shaft with a wedge-shaped screw is clamped into the chuck of a powerful electric drill or hammer drill. Such a device not only has low efficiency, but is also very dangerous, since it will not be easy to hold it in your hands with the increased resistance of the wood. If you still decide to use this scheme, then try to secure the tool to solid foundation to use it in the traditional way.

To obtain a mobile design, an internal combustion engine is used to drive the machine

What is needed for making

Making an “iron lumberjack” does not require the use of scarce parts, so most components and blanks can be found at home or in the garages of friends and acquaintances. Here's what you'll need during the process:

cone (you can grind the screw yourself or purchase it on the construction market);
shaft (if you make your own threaded wedge, you can use a suitable hub from agricultural machinery);
pulleys or sprockets;
drive belt or chain from automobile or motorcycle equipment;
bearings with housings (supports for car driveshafts are an excellent option);
steel profile pipes or corners for the bed;
metal sheet with a thickness of at least 4 mm for the desktop;
electric motor;
wiring;
switch or magnetic starter;
bolts and nuts M8 or M10.

Most parts can be used from old automobile or agricultural equipment. The only thing that may be difficult is making a conical screw. However, you should not even try to cut this part using a grinder, as some “authoritative” sources advise. The time spent is not worth the resulting misunderstanding, which can only indirectly be called a screw. Moreover, in operation this “carrot” will not even come one iota close to the efficiency that a cone made by turning will give.

Main components of a cone log splitter

If you plan to use a wood splitter as mobile installation, then you should take care of durable metal wheels in advance. A truly mobile design is achieved using a gasoline or diesel engine as a power plant.

When making a machine, you will need tools that any “handy” owner will have:

welding machine;
electric drill with a set of drills;
Bulgarian;
hammer;
set of wrenches;
tape measure, marker.

Any enamel for exterior use is suitable for protection against corrosion. It is only important to thoroughly prepare the metal surface for painting, so if necessary, prepare a metal brush (manual, or in the form of an attachment for a drill or grinder), a primer and a rust converter.

Preparatory work: approximate dimensions and drawings

Before taking up the tool, it is important to draw up at least a simple sketch diagram with the location of the main components and parts of the machine and indicating its main dimensions. In addition, you will need a diagram electrical connections, to work on which you can connect a familiar electrician. The diagrams and drawings of finished structures presented to your attention will help you correctly configure the wood splitter and avoid mistakes in its manufacture.

Layout of a log splitting machine

The most important step in the process of creating a mechanical cleaver is making a wedge, so let’s look at this in more detail.

The best material for a cone is tool steel, but not every turner will undertake to make a part from it - the metal has increased hardness and requires special handling. Most likely, the screw will be made of the most popular grade of structural steel - St 45. In this case, it is better to strengthen its threaded part with any in an accessible way- hardening, nitriding or carburization.

Long-term and efficient operation of the cone is ensured only if it is manufactured correctly. When placing an order with a turner, be sure to specify that you need a screw with a 1:2 taper and a persistent double-start thread with a pitch of 5 - 6 mm. Regular metric threads will not work due to rapid wear. In addition, the standard screw thread fits into the wood much worse.

The size of the screw wedge and the value of its taper are directly related to the maximum size of the logs to be split, therefore, when determining the parameters of the drill, you can use the table.

Table for calculating cone sizes

The approximate dimensions of the bed depend on the operator’s build and can be:

height - up to 80 cm;
width - up to 60 cm (with folding table 100 cm);
length - up to 85 cm.

The most commonly used scheme is with a bottom-mounted electric motor. This will protect its rotating parts from chips and chips. If an internal combustion engine is used as the power unit, then it is installed at the same level as the wedge. This arrangement is more convenient both during startup and during operation, when it is necessary to adjust the rotation speed of the wedge, fill the tank with fuel, etc.

Cone mounted on the frame circular saw, eliminates the need to make another metal work table, makes the design universal and allows you to save space when storing equipment under a shed or in a shed.

In the process of designing a cone log splitter, they must provide a method for tensioning the chain or belt - using an additional sprocket or roller, slide, etc. It would also be useful protective cover mounted on a chain or belt drive. It can be bent from sheet metal and secured to the frame with screws.

Pay attention to how well the flexible transmission protection is arranged.

Step-by-step assembly instructions

After drawing up a drawing of the future design and preparing the necessary components and materials, you can begin assembling the mechanical cleaver. It is best to use ready-made instructions and carry out the work in strict accordance with the plan.

Using an angle grinder, metal corners and profile pipes are cut into the sections necessary for the manufacture of the frame.
A rectangular table cover and bottom shelf are cut out of a metal sheet 4–5 mm thick.
Bed assembly
Using a welding machine, the parts of the upper and lower frame are connected, after which the legs are welded to them.
In the mobile version, axles are welded to the frame, on which the wheels are mounted.
Wheel mounting
Install the table top and shelf.
Assemble the electric motor support frame and attach it to the frame.
Mount the electric motor and install the drive pulley on its shaft.
The cone working shaft assembly is assembled, for which the bearings are pressed into the housings. After this, the shaft is mounted and the pulleys are installed. The assembled unit is secured to the frame with bolts and nuts, having previously drilled holes in the tabletop. Once assembled, the main shaft should rotate easily. The pulleys can be installed on a keyed connection or secured with side screws, having previously made recesses on the shaft.
Installation of the main shaft and electric motor
Install the belts and check the straightness of their trajectory. If necessary, the shaft with supports is shifted by drilling a couple of additional holes. When rotating, there should be no radial and axial runout, otherwise the belts will constantly fly off and quickly wear out.
Cone installation
Using a keyed connection, a screw cone is installed on the drive shaft, after which it is secured with screws. During operation, the cone may get stuck in the wood so that it can only be removed by reverse rotation. Since reverse in this design is problematic to organize, you will have to turn the wedge using gas key. You can avoid its slipping by making flats on the protruding part of the shaft.
Install the divider.
The logs should be placed on the wedge in a vertical position. Otherwise, the screw may jam or break.
You should be careful when splitting logs with large knots, as well as logs from the butt part of the round timber. The process in this case can go unpredictably - with jamming of the shaft, sharp rotation of the log, throwing large chips to the side, etc. An increased speed of rotation of the cone is also fraught with danger - too high speeds will not make it possible to control the work, so it is better if the number driven shaft revolutions will be within the recommended limits.
To make a cone log splitter with your own hands, you will need minimal skills in working with plumbing tools. One day spent on its manufacture will pay off in the future by saving time and effort. It is only important to follow safety rules when chopping wood, and then this simple activity will not bring surprises.

Harvesting firewood requires considerable effort: it needs to be sawed, split, and stacked to dry. Most of the effort goes into chopping wood. A wood splitter can make the process easier and faster. They are presented in sufficient quantities, but cost a lot of money. At the same time, you can make a simple wood splitter with your own hands from scrap metal - pipes, corners, etc. Everything will require literally several thousand - if there is no metal, you will have to buy it.

Mechanical wood splitters

If the volumes of firewood harvested are small, a mechanical wood splitter can easily handle them. They are distinguished by their simplicity of design, a minimum number of complex components, and also by the fact that the costs are minimal, even if the farm does not have suitable hardware.

Simple DIY wood splitter: mechanics

The simplest mechanical wood splitter resembles a well crane. The design is one to one, only instead of a bucket a cutter and handles are attached. The connection between the rack(s) and the crossbar can be made as simple as possible - hinged. All you need is good lubrication.

The principle of operation is probably clear to everyone. The block of wood is placed on a stand, the lever is sharply pulled down, due to the force of inertia, the cutter gains significant force and splits the block of wood. The process is repeated until logs of the required thickness are obtained.

It’s easy to assemble such a mechanical wood splitter with your own hands, literally, from what you have - pipes, a corner of any size, you can even use an ax as a cutter. In addition, such a design can be made collapsible so that it can be moved.

There are many disadvantages. Chopping wood requires a lot of effort. Moreover, more effort is put into stopping the progress of the cleaver after the log has fallen apart. The second disadvantage is that such a wood splitter takes up a significant area, because the longer the lever, the less effort you need to put in. However, even such a primitive mechanical device greatly reduces the complexity of the process.

One option - the cleaver is welded to a square pipe filled with concrete

In this design, the cleaver must be heavy. Therefore, the blade itself is welded to an all-metal blank. A more affordable option is to weld it to a pipe (round or square) and fill it with concrete. Agree, anyone who knows how to handle wood can make such a wood splitter with their own hands.

Spring log splitter

There is a modified design of a manual mechanical wood splitter, which, with a smaller size, chops wood better and requires less effort. In this model, the main working unit is a spring, which is fixed to the frame, and its upper part rests against a stationary crossbar on which the cleaver is fixed.

In this design, the main force - to hold the cleaver after the log has split - is taken by the spring. Accordingly, the main thing is to select the spring and stop so that minimal effort is applied, but they are sufficient to split even complex, knotty blocks. The spring support can be made movable. Then you can adjust the parameters to specific conditions. In reality, “reconfiguration” is required for a specific person. If one person will work with the tool, then you can do everything stationary, selecting the height experimentally.

It is equally important to make a movable joint between the frame and the lever on which the cleaver is attached. The best option- bearings. They must be of high quality, preferably self-leveling.

The minimum height of a homemade wood splitter is about 800 mm. But then you will either have to work bending over, or install the machine on a table/bed. A more comfortable option that requires minimal effort is one made to fit your height. Determine at what height it is convenient for you to have the log standing, add the height of the log itself to this figure, and get the height of the bed. In this case, you will also have to bend over, but only when you place the block on the stand, and not every time the cleaver is lowered.

You can work with one hand or come up with a clamp for installing logs (more secure) Movable joint assembly and spring attachment - several options

To add mobility structures, a frame is welded, with wheels attached on one side and stops welded on the other. Making such a wood splitter with your own hands is somewhat more difficult, but if there is a spring and bearings, this is such a difficult task.

Vertical inertial wood splitter

Another easy option for self-made. To make such a wood splitter with your own hands, you need two pipes of a larger and smaller diameter. You will also need a heavy plate - the base, and, in fact, the piercing part - the cutter/cleaver.

The design is one of the simplest, requiring little effort. A thick-walled pipe, or better yet, a pin, is fixed to a massive platform. Height is about a meter. This is the lead pipe. A cleaver moves freely along it, which is welded to the rings of a pipe with a slightly larger diameter than the leading pipe. He chops wood in the following way: lift the cleaver up and release it. You can accelerate down a little. Due to gravity, the log splits.

A heavy cleaver is the key to success in this model

But this mechanical wood splitter does not immediately split all the logs. To increase its effectiveness, you can add a weight to the cleaver. It can be “added” if necessary. The second option is to hit the column a couple of times with a hammer. This method is good if the cutter is stuck in the wood. An alternative is to lift the log together up and lower it sharply. But it's easier to swing a hammer.

Electric wood splitters

A manual wood splitter, of course, makes it easier to prepare firewood, but it still requires considerable physical effort. Not as much as they are spent waving a regular cleaver, but still... The electric motor helps make the effort even less. Wood splitters are made on its basis various designs. But making such a wood splitter with your own hands is more difficult. Here the device is more complex, and at least minimal electrical knowledge is required, preferably.

Screw (conical)

One of the most common models is a cone or screw splitter. The only difference between them is the absence/presence of threads on the piercing element, which in this model is made in the form of a cone.

The logs split due to the fact that a cone rotated by a motor cuts into the wood, gradually tearing it into pieces. For large logs, first the edges are chipped off, then the middle is torn.

Taper and thread parameters

First, the cutting part was turned into a smooth cone. If you use a smooth cone, when working you have to lean quite hard on the block so that the cylinder “bites” into the wood. Much easier the process is underway, if there is a thread cut on its surface. In this case, the block seems to be screwed onto a screw, and then splits.

The main thing is to make the cone with thread correctly. If you have a lathe and work experience, you can try to do it yourself. If not, you'll have to order it. The threads are made in different ways, but the following parameters are considered optimal: pitch 7 mm, depth 3 mm (minimum 2 mm). More important point— the depth of the seat on the motor gearbox is at least 70 mm.

If you have a cone with a thread, making this wood splitter with your own hands will not be difficult.

Electric motor and gearbox

You need an electric motor that is powerful enough (2 kW and above, or 5-9 l/s), but with a low rotation speed: 250-600 rpm. At 250 rpm and below it chops very slowly, and if the rpm is more than 500, it is dangerous to work, as it can tear the log out of your hands.

If you manage to find an engine with such parameters, you can attach the made lance (screw) directly to the crankshaft (pictured above). If there are more revolutions, you need to install a reduction gear or make a chain or belt drive to reduce the rotation speed.

The ratio is calculated depending on the engine speed. For example, there is a 900 rpm engine. By making a 1:2 gearbox we get 450 rpm. Just the best option.

Transmissions can be belt or chain. Chain ones work many times louder, require constant brushing, and it usually costs more to grind sprockets with the required parameters. A double belt drive is desirable (as in the photo above). In this case, there will be less slippage.

The chain drive is noisier, but more reliable. “Extension” for the screw - so that working space was away from the engine or belts/chains

Where to place the motor

If the design includes a gear, it is better to place the motor at the bottom and secure the screw itself on the working surface. Choose the height of the working surface to suit your height so that you don’t have to work at an angle.

A safer model. Making such a wood splitter with your own hands will make your life much easier

There is also such a parameter as the height of the screw above the working surface. The gap from the table to the cylinder should be around 8-20 cm. It should not be placed higher - it may turn small diameter logs. The optimal distance is 8-12 cm. Even small-sized logs do not rotate.

Hydraulic wood splitter

A hydraulic wood splitter is the most powerful, but also the most complex and expensive to manufacture. In addition to the frame, engine and cutting knives, you need a hydraulic cylinder of sufficient power. They are not cheap. In addition, you also need an oil tank and a pump.

A hydraulic firewood splitter develops considerable forces, which is why metal of considerable thickness is used in its manufacture - 6-10 mm, depending on the drive power. The developed force is quite enough to break the log into 6-8 logs at a time. That’s why knives are made in the shape of a “star”.

When making knives, they are spaced several centimeters apart from each other. So that there is only one at work. For example, first - horizontal, then - vertical, then - right and finally - left. At the same time, strengthen each of the knives by welding reinforcing plates at the back. It is advisable to use hard steel, having previously sharpened it according to the same principle as for cleavers.

Video on the topic

In any household where wood-burning boilers are used for heating residential premises, preparing the required reserves of such fuel and preparing it for use traditionally takes a lot of time and physical effort. Therefore, some prudent owners are trying to somehow facilitate and speed up this process by mechanizing it. And an excellent solution is a wood splitter, which can be purchased ready-made or made independently.

Expert advice! It is important to pay attention to the type of thread: a persistent two-start thread is required; if you use a single-start thread, you will have to forcefully push the block onto the carrot cone. Ask your sellers for a two-start thrust thread. Otherwise, when using a single-start thread, you will have to force the logs onto the threaded cone with great effort!

Making a wood splitter with your own hands is not an easy task, but for a good, skilled owner it is completely solvable. This can be a purely mechanical option, or an installation equipped with a hydraulic drive, electric or liquid fuel motor. Many different models of homemade wood splitting machines have been developed, with significant differences in the principle of operation, dimensions, design complexity, designed to transmit horizontal and vertical force, etc. To decide which cleaver will be most suitable for both self-production and further use, it makes sense to consider several options available for assembly in a home workshop.

Existing types of wood splitter designs

Chopping large quantities of firewood by hand may have health benefits, but it is by no means a very enjoyable activity. In addition, this process takes a lot of time. Therefore, a wood splitter will never be superfluous on the farm.

When choosing the design of this device for self-production, you should not rely entirely on the varieties offered for purchase in specialized stores. There are quite a lot of them, and each of the wood splitters requires compliance certain rules safety measures that are not always feasible at home. In this regard, the first thing that needs to be done when planning to manufacture such a device yourself is to decide on how much firewood to harvest and in what quantities. climatic conditions it is necessary. Various options are possible:

For regular procurement of large volumes of wood fuel necessary for heating a large house located in a region with a harsh climate.
For preparing small amounts of firewood for homes in regions with mild winter climates.
For periodic splitting of firewood, which is used in addition to the main fuel - coal, briquettes, etc., or for heating commercial non-residential premises.
For preparing a small amount of fuel for a fireplace or heating a cottage in winter period when visiting her on weekends.

* * * * * * *

To make your own installation for splitting firewood, subject to an already developed scheme, availability of material and necessary tools, it will probably take two to three days. But in the future, much more time and effort will be saved when preparing fuel reserves for the winter.

In conclusion - a video that shows a very small wood splitter screw type, its considerable capabilities have been demonstrated. By the way, the argument that the logs are fed for splitting exclusively vertically will be clearly visible there.

Video: Small homemade screw wood splitter in action

A self-made wood splitter is a mechanism designed to facilitate the process of splitting large logs for heating a stove or fireplace. The attractiveness of the tool is expressed in the fact that anyone can make it themselves from inexpensive materials.

Device classifications

The design has many classifying factors. Wood splitters are distinguished by:

field of operation (private use, large enterprises);
tree laying method (vertical, horizontal, mixed);
engine type (electric, gasoline, tractor traction, combined);
method of transportation (mobile and stationary);
principle of operation (hydraulic and screw (cone)).

Homemade wood splitters are most often equipped with an electric or gasoline engine. The remaining parameters are individual and selected for personal needs. For everyone who is scratching their heads with the question: “How to make a wood splitter with your own hands?” We will provide assembly instructions for the hydraulic and screw unit.

DIY hydraulic wood splitter

Most often, the hydraulic system for operating the device is borrowed from the tractor. Can also be used Electrical engine tractor driven or petrol. The hydraulic wood splitter includes the following components:

bed;
pump;
oil container;
motor;
hydraulic cylinder with stop;
blade;
distributor.

It won’t be difficult to make a wood splitter with your own hands with drawings, photos and instructions. a lot of work for people who have at least a little understanding of the mechanics of a hydraulic installation.

For convenience, we will show a drawing of the mechanism and compile a short assembly guide.

Instructions for assembling a hydraulic log splitter:

We fix hydraulic jack on the bed.
A wedge-shaped blade is mounted on the other end, which will allow you to work with logs of different volumes and lengths.
In the middle of the structure we have a platform for laying logs. When interacting with the jack handle, the stop will press the wood towards the wedge knife, which will successfully split it.
After splitting, the springs will return the stop to the starting position.

This device is no different high speed work, however, whatever one may say, it is much easier than chopping wood with an ax.

DIY screw (cone) wood splitter

The operating principle of this type of wood splitter lies in the ability of a rotating metal cone to split logs due to the existing threads on the surface.

Don't try to make a cone yourself. This is a very labor-intensive and painstaking task. It will be more profitable to buy a ready-made version, correctly made and suitable for your future design.

To make a screw type, you should use this article and watch a video about homemade wood splitters.

This is one of the most common tools for splitting wood. It is easy not only to use, but also to assemble with your own hands.

Instructions for assembling a screw log splitter with a cone-shaped splitter:

Decide on the power source for our unit. The example drawing shows an electric motor.
It is necessary to select the correct cone. Depending on the size of the device and the logs being split.
Make a plan for the location of all elements of the device on the desktop.
Make bases for the entire structure. The working platform looks like a steel table with a fixed splitting shaft.
Weld a kind of keel to the table to prevent log particles from getting under the rotating device.
Attach the power supports for installation and place the splitter in its working position.
Connect the motor. The device is ready to use!

It is preferable to mount the engine under the table. It will be protected from accidental damage and wood chips.

Operating principle of a cone log splitter

The power unit (in our case: electric motor) imparts rotational motion to the cone. You should carefully bring the log and gently press towards the cleaver. The cone smoothly cuts into the structure of the tree and splits it in half.

Screw wood splitter with engine from washing machine is the most convenient and functional option for home use.

In addition, it is possible to avoid the cost of purchasing a new engine. It can be used by removing it from an old washing machine.

A wood splitter is an indispensable device in a private home or country house. A large number of information on the Internet allows you to make a wood splitter with your own hands using video or text instructions. The flexibility of the design allows the use of a wide variety of components. There is always the opportunity to select and build a unit to suit your individual conditions and needs.

Design and operation of a homemade wood splitter - video

Chopping wood is a useful activity for any physically strong, healthy man. But sometimes there are large volumes of firewood that need to be prepared in a short time; in this case, a special tool is used. A wood splitter is a device that is difficult to do without when you have to chop massive pieces of wood.

Features of homemade models

A wood splitter is especially necessary in private households, where it is necessary to heat the house using firewood. You can make such a tool with your own hands; it is not difficult and will save a significant amount of money. Working with solid wood is quite risky and can cause injury, so you should use a good tool and follow the necessary safety regulations.

Mechanical units that help split solid wood and heavy logs tend to accumulate energy, they are economical, and they are easy to operate. There is no need for muscular strength to operate such devices. The units can cope with any logs and wooden ingots. They operate in push mode and can handle logs up to 35 cm long, no physical effort is required.

Pressure-action devices are driven by an internal combustion engine and can also be connected to an electric motor. They are not cheap, but their use almost completely eliminates the muscular effort that must be expended. Using this device, you can heat your house up to 350 square meters, while frosts can be Siberian, down to -35 degrees Celsius.

This unit is safe; the disadvantages include a rather complicated design and high energy consumption.

The return stroke of the pusher is usually no more than 7 centimeters per second. In a few hours, one person can prepare more than half a ton of firewood. You cannot work with wet wood; it is recommended to place wooden blanks in a woodpile under a canopy during the warm season. In about three months, the tree will “fit” to the required condition. Raw wood does not provide enough heat, the thermal conductivity is much lower (by 25%), the cleaver often gets stuck in it, and getting it out of there can sometimes be extremely difficult. Homemade wood splitter can be made no worse than the factory one, that is, it will have horizontal and vertical feed of the workpiece.

For guidance, it’s worth saying what the approximate monetary savings could be:

good quality unit that works diesel fuel and designed for splitting pigs 25 cm in diameter, costs from 20 thousand rubles;
a machine that can “deal” with workpieces up to 35 cm, splitting them into 4-5 fragments, costs about 30 thousand rubles.

Specifications

The most simple design A wood splitter is a splitting ax. To work with it, you need some practical experience. For experienced woodcutters, a splitting ax can be the main tool when processing massive wooden pieces; the ax size of this tool is up to one meter. In recent years, the cleaver has been made from innovative materials, which allows it to be used more efficiently in the labor process.

Light ax handle durable material fiberglass allows you to work with this tool more efficiently. Over the two thousand years that the cleaver ax has existed, it has been continuously improved. The ax handle made of modern fiberglass completely eliminates vibration and painful feedback to the palm.

To harvest firewood in large quantities, push-type wood splitters are usually used. They have a rack or pinion pusher. Such a device pushes a massive piece of wood onto a cleaver, which, in turn, splits it into several small pieces. The feed speed of the workpiece is about 5 centimeters per second. Vertical wood splitters have a greater safety margin and are more compact. The disadvantage of this device is that there is a risk of ejection of the workpiece, which contains the following “difficulties”:

many layers;
a lot of knots;
There are various irregular cuts.

A horizontal wood splitter is safer. The worker does not risk getting hit by flying chips, because their speed can sometimes be very high. The vertical unit has a circular scattering of fragments, therefore, from a safety point of view, there are questions about this unit. Hydraulic wood splitter:

productive;
spends minimal energy;
safe to operate

Among the disadvantages, it should be noted: to work with such a device you need certain experience. And also under heavy loads, liquid may leak out of the device. The unit is easy to maintain; spare parts for it can always be found on the market.

The hydraulic log splitter does not have a return spring, and is also quite long time to switch – about 0.55 seconds. The period of time is quite significant, because the workpiece can split and fall into many fragments. Such wood splitters have a common drawback: their engine runs through a fluid coupling and sometimes cannot cope with the load. The engine usually operates in standard mode, consuming little fuel. A gear is attached to the flywheel (it is usually hydraulic, there is also a fractional one). This lever is a coupling with a pusher, which ensures that the lump is fed to the splitting knife.

There is enough energy to split almost any piece of wood.

Tools and materials

To create a screw cleaver you will need:

power plant from 1.5 kW;
shaft with mounted bearing;
drive belt;
threaded cone;
metal 6 mm thick;
corners 6, pipes 45 mm.

Tools you will need:

jigsaw;
welding machine;
turbine;
screwdriver;
screwdriver;
scotch;
hammer;
wire cutters;
pliers;
tape measure and triangle ruler.

How to do it?

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare drawings and assembly instructions. A simple wood splitter with an electric motor can be assembled at home. Indicative in this regard hydraulic wood splitter, which can be done in the garage. The hydraulic system can be supplied from a mini-excavator or some other equipment. Productivity will be determined by the splitting force:

20 cm half – 2 tf;
straight layer – 2.7 tf;
25 cm – 2.4 tf;
30 cm into 4 parts – 4 tf;
30 cm into 8 parts – 5 tf;
40 cm into 8 parts – 6 tf.

The power of the hydraulic pump is determined by the flow rate, which is on average 4.5 cm. Next, the efficiency is calculated and the engine is selected; its reserve should be 15% greater.

And the fittings are also selected with reserve;

hose;
valve;
flaps.

An important working element is the cleaver itself. It is made of durable metal (car spring or rail, for example). The workpiece is usually met by a vertical knife, which is sharpened on a straight line (symmetrical wedge). The horizontal knife stands a little further (18 cm), it is spent on the upper oblique wedge.

Vertical knife for better safe work is applied from below, the height is about 35 mm, while the instrument protrudes by 25 mm. This design will allow you to work with complex wooden elements, provided that they are placed evenly sideways at the bottom. The sharpening angles are as follows:

vertical knife is designed for soft wood – 19 degrees (three knife thicknesses);
for hard wood (including birch) - 15 degrees (3.8 knife thickness);
horizontal knives – 16 degrees;
the prick has an inclination angle of no more than 26 degrees (minimum 20 degrees), the thickness of the knife is 2.6;

A rack-and-pinion wood splitter is simpler and cheaper than a hydraulic unit (costs no more than 20 thousand rubles). Making it yourself is not very difficult. The pusher is fed using a gear rack, the transmission to the shaft works in such a way that the movement occurs no more than 4.5 cm per second. To make it, you need elements - just disassemble the old jack. The rack-and-pinion wood splitter does not have hydraulic components, and its maintenance takes a minimum of time.

Such a unit, from a safety point of view, is more preferable. The operating scheme is as follows: it operates when the lever is lowered, then the return spring element will lift the rack and tilt it back. The disadvantage of such a unit is that as the feed speed decreases, the thrust increases rapidly, and then also suddenly drops to zero. If there is a cavity or some other flaw in the workpiece, the unit will be subjected to too much stress, this can happen spontaneously, which can cause deformation of the machine or even its breakdown.

The hydraulic drive always works softer; the largest thrust coefficient occurs when there is a feed rate that approaches zero. If a workpiece that is too strong gets into the feed of the hydraulic unit, it will be pushed onto the splitter non-stop, which can lead to damage. For a rack-and-pinion log splitter (based on all the above comments) you need a more powerful engine. To calculate its power, you can simply shift the forces of the splitting, which exists for the hydraulic drive: a pig with a diameter of 20 cm is 2.6 tf, the efficiency in this case will be about 0.87.

Often, too thick dried bark interferes with the movement of the workpiece. As a conclusion, you can note: rack and pinion units are appropriate when the amount of work is relatively small, the work is done using muscle power.

For small preparations of firewood, a vertical screw splitter may be quite suitable. This device has low productivity; it is not afraid of various flaws in wood blanks. An electric motor for its operation can be low-power, only 2.8 kW - from a washing machine, driven by a pulley. With a low-power engine, such a unit will be able to “cope” with elements up to 42 cm in diameter and up to 65 cm in height. To create it, you will need an engine from a washing machine; the rotation speed of such a power plant may well be suitable. The disadvantage may be that by mounting the cleaver directly on the engine shaft, the engine housing may move and it will break.

In progress the main role is given to a cone-shaped nozzle, which has a thread and rotates at a speed of 160-1550 rpm (operating frequency is usually 300 rpm). Carving is done with the left hand due to the fact that most people are right-handed; their right hand is physically better developed.

The workpiece on a screw cleaver is fed onto it along a vertical plane. During movement, the workpiece (its movement) is adjusted by hand. This way of asking the question is not in the best possible way affects the level of safety, so you should take into account the fact that a screw splitter is a dangerous device. The employee is required to constantly ensure that right hand there was not enough material left. If the cleaver gets stuck, the process of winding the workpiece will occur. To prevent such incidents from occurring, a spacer should be installed under the cleaver.

The assembly and operation of the screw unit can be affected by the rationality of the design, as well as the location of such components:

wedge stop;
drive pulley;
main shaft operation.

And it is also important what shape the cleaver itself is, how it is sharpened; such parameters will certainly affect the operation of the unit itself. The wedge stop is also important; it determines the safety of the unit and affects performance and reliability. If the stop is selected incorrectly, problems will arise with the engine; operation will occur with a high voltage of the power unit. Performance will be noticeably lower. You cannot leave the cleaver hanging without a lower stop. The wedge stop is attached to the base on the right. In this case, its length can be such that the spout is 1/4-1/2 longer than the length of the thread.

The stop parameter corresponds to the diameter of the cleaver in a similar section (in this case, 4 heights of the threaded part are subtracted). The distance between the shank and the stop is about 1.8 mm, however, if the gap is 0.8 mm, it will be even better. The cleaver will “disturb” a little at first, but after a short time the grinding will occur and the product will last for quite a long time.

The vertical stop is 2/3 of the shank. For 76 mm the limits are limited to 52-62 mm. The workpiece must be pulled up manually after the cleaver has entered the tree quite deeply. If the cleaver has already entered too deeply into the material, it will be impossible to hold it with bare hands. Fit Bottom part will hit the side of the stop. In this case, damage and defects may occur.

The unit must be made in such a way that the holder and the main shaft drive are made according to the instructions, in this case nothing will happen and there will be no damage. IN screw splitter The inertial impulse for rotation is transmitted through a pulley. In this case, the pulley must slip if a “plug” occurs, otherwise an accident is inevitable.

In this regard, transmission using a chain is more rational and practical; there are noticeably fewer “plugs”. The chain itself has considerable weight, so the transmission is more rigid and allows it to overcome “obstacles.” If the workpieces have too many knots, then you will need to install a drive, which is presented in the form of a powerful driven pulley.

There is a carrot screw; this unit really resembles a root vegetable. The unit is simple to design and assemble; you can work with it when preparing a small amount of firewood. This device can also cut wood, so splitting with a screw provides a sufficient amount of sawdust. On the farm, this is sometimes in demand if there is a poultry house on the territory that needs to be heated.

A sliding splitter is another option. The shoulder is taken into account as 1.6 meters. Overload can be up to 40 kg. If the wood splitter is stationary, then in this case it can work as an inertial lever, that is, it can be lifted by the handle and then lowered with force onto the workpiece. If the cleaver is dynamic, then it can be easily moved along the lever, in which case it can be pressed. At the same time, the shoulder lengthens significantly. The lever wood splitter has a number of features:

It is best to use the “Arrow” cleaver; it is easy to buy;
the lever is supported by a spring in a horizontal position;
the spring must be well secured so that it does not fly off;
often the spring is passed into a moving pendulum guide.

If the mechanical unit is not attached to the base, then it is made with a diameter that is not inferior in size to the lever arm (a size taken that is 2 times larger than the size of the wooden workpiece). It makes no sense to create “mechanics” with a fixed cleaver that slides along a guide. Even if you hit the cleaver with all your might with a sledgehammer, it will often jam.

A cone-shaped wood splitter is also often used, which in private households (when relatively little firewood is needed) can cope with fairly heavy ingots (up to 55 cm in diameter). The cone is made 82-148 mm in size, the angle of inclination is about 16 degrees if the tree has small layers, and 19 degrees if the layers are straight. At a third of the height of the cone, the opening angle changes to 26-32 degrees. It is best to use a rack jack. A rack and pinion jack is preferable because it is very simple and reliable and is not afraid of heavy loads. A hydraulic device has more work to do and is more vulnerable to overload.

One more detail is important. The control rod of the conical splitter is usually made functional, using reinforcement or a rod of steel grade St47, with a diameter of at least 22 mm. The thread is made in the shape of a trapezoid (often sewer valves are suitable, where the steering wheel is removed and replaced with a lever).

You can also make a wood splitter in the form of a saber with your own hands; such a device is also called a saber. The lever arm here is at least 0.9 meters, made of soft wood (pine, birch). This type of wood splitter can only be used with soft trees. Also, at dachas, they install wood splitters for the winter using a lever operating principle, which can split workpieces up to 35 cm in diameter. The productivity of such a unit is not high, but such a device is quite enough to chop firewood for dinner. Using the pedal, the sliding stop is raised, then it is released and the pedal is pressed, so the workpiece is delaminated.

You can even make a wood splitter from a wheel; we will look at the technology below.

From the jack

A wood splitter can be made from a jack, which is manually driven using physical force.

The following materials will be required:

hydraulic jack;
steel sheet 5 mm;
channel or angle No. 8;
primer;
springs;
bolts and nuts.

List of tools:

Bulgarian;
welding machine;
drill;
triangle ruler;
marker.

It is important to secure the vertical fastenings correctly; the lion's share of the load will fall on them. For these purposes, you will need a corner No. 8 or an I-beam. Then a wedge is made that cuts the wooden blanks. This element is made of steel or angle. It is also recommended to sharpen the wedge well, then the work will be more productive. The jack will be positioned against the lower stand, which must be slightly raised above the base. To do this, you need to weld several flat pieces of sheet steel. The jack must be well secured so that it does not jump out during operation. The element is additionally secured with clamps and nuts.

Springs will also be needed to return the element to its original state. You should also make a reliable frame, which is best welded from steel. In order for the support base to be firmly attached to the jack, it is additionally welded to it. round pipe. And you will also need to weld the mountings for the springs. The device is placed mainly in a corner; it can be additionally “grabbed” with bolts to two walls.

From a wheel rim

The wood splitter can be made from a tractor wheel disc or truck. Concrete can be poured into the cavity of such an element to increase the mass. A vertical mount, similar to a guillotine, is welded to the central block. The disk rotates, and the “guillotine” falls and hits the die, which is attached in the center. Working on such a unit is not easy; practical experience is required.

Security measures

Safety precautions should be observed during operation. The energy that is spent on splitting wood elements is quite significant. The rate of scattering of chips can be high. Before starting the drive, all fixing elements should be checked:

bolted connections;
joints;
pulley fastening;
cable;
engine mount;
knives must be in good condition, no chips or signs of corrosion.

Clothing with long sleeves should be loose and made of thick fabric, and should also include:

good work boots;
gloves;
glasses;
headphones.

The equipment must be located on a flat, stable surface that is not afraid of powerful vibration. Reinforced concrete slab– an ideal basis for basing such a unit. The machine can only process parts that correspond to the format of the equipment. And a few more tips:

when the machine is operating closer than three meters, it is not recommended to approach it;
the work area should always be fenced off with warning tape made of paper or PVC material;
equipment should only be operated under the supervision of an employee;
During operation, you should carefully monitor so that no foreign objects get into the unit;
Preventative inspections and test runs should be carried out regularly;
All equipment repair work is carried out with the engine disconnected from the network.

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