How to properly cover the second floor with plasterboard. How to properly finish an attic with plasterboard yourself

Most owners of private houses, as a rule, think about making something located under the roof attic space suitable for living, which will allow them to significantly expand their useful living area. As an option for a quick and not particularly costly solution to the problem, cladding the internal parts of the roof with some kind of cladding material can be considered, the choice of which is usually determined by the preferences of the contractor.

According to professionals, for these purposes it is most convenient to use drywall, which belongs to the category of quite practical and relatively inexpensive building materials.

In addition to the fact that drywall has a very reasonable cost, that is, it is available to almost anyone, it has a number of unique properties which are described in detail below:

1. First of all, the natural gypsum contained in this material helps to normalize the indoor climate by absorbing excess moisture from the air and releasing it when there is a deficiency. This property of plasterboard makes it indispensable when carrying out internal finishing works.
2. Another noteworthy property of this material is its fire resistance, due to which when exposed to high temperatures, drywall does not burn, but only smolders, without emitting substances harmful to the human body.
3. Finishing of premises using this lightweight and practical building material is carried out quite quickly. The time spent on finishing work is incomparably less than when using facing materials of any other class. At the same time, the construction metal frame followed by covering it with sheets of plasterboard, you will need no more than 1–2 days; the same amount will be spent on finishing the surface.

In a room such as an attic, it is recommended to use special variety this material, namely moisture-resistant plasterboard (VGKL), which does not deform in conditions of high humidity.

Significant disadvantages of the material we are considering include its low strength and tendency to fracture even under light loads.

Finishing the attic with plasterboard is carried out in stages, taking into account the mandatory preparatory procedures (including inspection and repair of the roof). Let's look at each of these stages in more detail.

Preparation for finishing includes two mandatory points, the correct execution of which determines the success of the entire event.

First of all, before starting the main work, you should make sure that the roof of your building is in perfect condition and that there is not even a hint of any leaks in it. If you want the attic you are constructing to please you with its coziness and comfort, you need to worry about this in advance, since after covering the walls with plasterboard it will no longer be possible to correct the situation.

In this case, you may encounter such an unpleasant phenomenon as the appearance of smudges on sheets of drywall, which most often appear in the spring and autumn (especially during periods of heavy rain). If your roof requires partial repairs, it is best to postpone the idea of ​​decorating the attic with your own hands until better times.

It is advisable to wait until the rainy season, which will allow you to detect all damaged areas roofing. Only after the final elimination of these damages will it be possible to begin implementing the second point.

Second part preparatory work includes examination load-bearing elements roofing structure, namely its beams and rafters, the strength and reliability of which should not raise any doubts. When directly inspecting them, be sure to make sure that there is no accumulation of dampness on these parts of the structure, and that there are no traces of mold or rot on their surface.

The wooden elements of the frame base used must be thoroughly dried before installation. Such foresight eliminates the possibility of deformation of the structure during its operation, which can cause displacement of the sheets finishing material and subsequent destruction of the entire finish.

Preparation of material and tools

To carry out finishing work you will need to purchase the following building materials:

• plasterboard blanks;
• wooden bars or metal profiles (for making a frame);
• a set of fastening elements (including special hangers and screws).

From the tool you will need:

• screwdriver - it will be needed when constructing the frame and securing the sheathing sheets;
• building level, which is used to control the horizontalness of fastening bars or profiles on the walls;
• a grinder for cutting metal blanks of the required length or special metal scissors;
• tape measure and pencil;
• a sharp knife used for cutting drywall blanks (or a hacksaw).

At small sizes in the attic, it is allowed to fix the facing material on a wooden frame, made by stuffing thin bars and slats onto beams and rafters, then sheathed with sheets of plasterboard.

Preparation of a solid metal frame may be required in the following cases:

• in a situation where fixing sheets of facing material on the internal roof sheathing is impossible;
• with significant dimensions of the attic space;
• if you want to give the interior of the room being finished an unusual and original look, which will require making a frame of complex configuration.

The installation of a metal base under the attic cladding is, in essence, no different from similar operations performed when finishing other premises. In this case, guides are also first installed around the perimeter, into which so-called rack profiles are then installed in 60 cm increments. When installing them, special attention should be paid to the areas where window and doorways. In these areas, the installation step of the profiles is selected so that the cladding planes follow the contours of the existing windows and doors.

When arranging a metal frame, you may encounter certain difficulties, consisting in the fact that when preparing it you need to exactly follow the contours of the roof structure, which, as a rule, has a complex configuration. In the case when the owners strive to make maximum use of the usable space in the future premises, they have no choice but to prepare a frame structure that exactly follows the contours of the existing roof.

In order for your attic to be warm and cozy, you should definitely place a layer of insulation between the roof structure and the sheathing (in the niches of the frame), which is most conveniently used as a material molded in the form of mats or plates.

Placement of material in laying areas can be done in one of the following ways:

• free styling;
• fixation using a special adhesive;
• securing mats or slabs with profile sections.

The first method is preferable when the material is placed very tightly in the niches, without gaps, and is self-fixed in them due to compression. The second technique allows you to securely attach the insulation to a surface treated with a special glue. Well, in the latter case, which is considered the most effective, the plates insulation material securely pressed to the plane with sections of the profile remaining after installation of the frame.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard is most often done in one layer; However, sometimes, in order to increase the strength of the coating being formed, this material is laid in two layers. With single-layer cladding you can save on material and costs. possible repairs finishing coating, but the walls are not strong enough. The second option involves a greater expenditure of effort and money, but at the same time its use makes it possible to increase the strength of the structure being constructed.

The procedure for single-layer sheathing an attic with plasterboard is relatively simple and, as a rule, comes down to two simple operations. When performing them, the finishing sheet is first applied to the sheathing plane (to the sheathing), after which it is secured to the frame base using self-tapping screws (in increments of about 20 cm).

In the case of two-layer sheathing, one layer is formed first sheet material, after which the second row is laid on it with a slight offset.

This is probably where the recommendations for finishing the attic with plasterboard end. Perhaps you have any questions while reading this article? Then ask them to our specialist consultant. He will provide you with additional information.

Video

You can learn how to cover an attic ceiling with plasterboard from the video:

Many owners of private houses often think about making the attic space located under the roof suitable for living. Due to this, the usable area of ​​the house will significantly expand, the costs will be quite acceptable - both in terms of money and labor.

A good option, which has already been tried by thousands of homeowners, is coating parts of the roof inside with one or another finishing material. What exactly to choose is up to each master to decide for himself; there are plenty of options.

Experts assure that drywall is perfect for solving this problem. As is known, this material practical, cheap, sold everywhere.

Pros and cons of drywall

The decision has been made and the attic will be finished with plasterboard. Before getting down to work, it is worth considering in detail the advantages and disadvantages of the facing material.

Drywall is a material that not only costs moderately, but also has a lot of unique characteristics that every builder should know about.

• The first thing to say is that this material contains natural gypsum. This material has a positive effect on the indoor microclimate; it is able to absorb excess moisture from the air (and if there is a deficiency, it will begin to be released). This parameter of drywall already speaks in favor of the fact that interior finishing work should be carried out with its help;
• Another one interesting characteristic– fire resistance. Thanks to it, when exposed to high temperatures, the material will not burn - only smolder a little. The process will not release substances harmful to human health;
• Practical and lightweight plasterboard is perfect for finishing premises, including because it is not difficult to work with and the process is carried out quickly. The time spent on finishing in this case, slightly less than when choosing a material of any other class;
• On average, it takes 2-3 days to create a metal frame and cover it with sheets. Then finishing surface – it will take the same amount of time.

About the disadvantages:

What can be said about the disadvantages of drywall? Its durability level is not high enough. Even small loads are enough for the sheets to collapse.

To finish the attic with plasterboard, it is worth working in stages - with mandatory preparation (this includes inspecting the roof and repairing it if necessary). This will be discussed in detail below.

Preparation stage

Preparatory work for finishing the attic includes several mandatory points: it is very important to do them correctly, the success of the entire renovation depends on it.

• The first step is to make sure that the roof of the structure is in perfect condition. Any leaks here must be excluded. It is important to check this aspect in advance - only then in the future the attic will delight you with comfort and coziness.

If the walls have already been covered with plasterboard and some roof defects suddenly appear, it will be extremely difficult to correct the situation.

A common phenomenon: smudges appear on sheets of drywall. Most often this is observed in autumn or spring - when precipitation is heavy. That is, if the roof needs repairs, even partial ones, it is better to postpone the idea of ​​finishing the attic with your own hands in advance.

It is better to detect leaks in the off-season - that is, before finishing a given room, you should wait until spring or autumn. Then all defects will be guaranteed to be identified, and the owner will easily understand which areas of the roofing are damaged. After eliminating all these shortcomings, you can safely begin the second stage of preparation.

• As part of the second part of the preparatory work, the master examines the load-bearing elements of the roof structure: rafters, beams. Their reliability and durability should not cause any complaints;
• During viewing, the owner must make sure that there is no accumulation of dampness here, and that there are no traces of rot or mold on the surface.

The wooden elements of the frame base are thoroughly dried before installing the drywall. This small precaution will protect the structure from deformation in the future during operation - most often the sheets of finishing material are displaced, if the master is not careful, the entire finish is destroyed.

Tools and materials - you can’t do without them

To carry out finishing work in the attic, you must have the appropriate building materials and certain tools at hand. This is worth talking about in more detail..

• Drywall blanks are required;
• Wooden blocks or metal profile (to build the frame);
• Fastening elements (sold in sets) are also important. This kit includes both self-tapping screws and specialized hangers.

Tools for work:

1. Construction level - it is this element that helps control the horizontal fastening of profiles or bars on the walls;
2. Screwdriver - when building a frame, this tool is indispensable, as well as when attaching sheathing sheets;
3. It is most convenient to cut metal blanks with a grinder (you will have to do this, because elements of a certain length will be used). Metal scissors will also come in handy at this stage;
4. Pencil and tape measure;
5. The most convenient way to cut drywall blanks is with a sharp knife (however, a wood saw is also used in this work).

Frame and its assembly

If the attic is small, the cladding material is easiest to attach to a wooden frame. Thin slats and bars are stuffed onto rafters and beams, after which they are sheathed plasterboard sheets. About.

A solid metal frame is necessary only in a number of cases. Namely:

• When it is not possible to fix the facing material on the inner roof sheathing in any other way;
• If the attic space is large;
• In a situation where the owner wants to make the attic interior original and unusual. That is, you cannot do without a complex configuration frame even if you want to.

How to install a metal frame

So, it's time to make a metal base for the subsequent cladding of the attic. What does this process look like, what should a master know about it?

• Everything here is exactly the same as when building a frame for any other room;
• Guides are installed along the perimeter of the attic. Rack profiles are installed in them - in increments of 0.6 m;
• When work is carried out, special attention must be paid to areas with door and window openings;
• In these places, the master selects the installation step of the profiles, taking into account that the cladding planes exactly follow the contours of the doors and windows;
• When building a metal frame, various difficulties often arise.

Often during the preparation process it is necessary to accurately repeat the contours of the roofing structure - often its shape is complex.

• If the owner wants to optimally use the usable space in the future room, he will have to make a frame structure that exactly follows the contours of the roof.

Insulation of the attic floor

Any owner wants to get not only a cozy, but also a warm attic. To do this, an insulating layer must be placed between the sheathing and the roof structure (frame niches are ideal for this).

Material made in the form of plates or mats is ideal for this - it is most convenient to work with. For placement, one of these approaches is usually used:

• Free styling;
• Fixation with specially prepared glue;
• Insulation boards or mats are fastened with scraps from the profile (there is usually a lot of waste).

The first method is usually chosen when the material is placed in the niches as tightly as possible - without any gaps.

In them it is fixed independently - this happens due to compression.

The second option is suitable for securely fixing the insulation to a surface that has been previously treated with specialized glue.

The last case is considered the most effective. The insulation plates are pressed securely to the plane with profile fragments (there are plenty of them left after the frame is installed).

Conclusion: frame cladding

How to cover a frame with plasterboard correctly - this question worries many novice craftsmen. Usually one layer is enough. However, sometimes they do it differently - to make the coating more durable, the material is laid in two layers.

• Cladding in one layer is a great way to save on both the material itself and repair work in the future (if for some reason there is a need for them). But in this situation the walls will not be very strong - this is a minus;
• The other option requires a lot of expense (both in terms of money and manpower), but as a result the structural strength will be decent;
• Single-layer plasterboard lining of the attic can be done easily with your own hands. Everything is done like this: first, the finishing sheet is applied to the sheathing plane (that is, to the sheathing);
• Next, it is simply secured with self-tapping screws on the frame base (a step of 0.2 m is enough).

An interesting point: if you decide to make the cladding in two layers, you first need to form one layer of material, then lay the second layer - with some offset, this is important.

This is how finishing an attic with plasterboard can be done by anyone. Thematic video is also recommended for viewing:

The result of all this is an additional attic space where it will be warm, comfortable, and as cozy as possible.

Many people who own an attic space strive to improve it so that it is suitable for living. The easiest way is to cover the attic with plasterboard, obtaining additional usable space. The huge advantages of this material include low cost and simplicity. self-installation. At the same time, the result is interesting and effective, eliminating the need for auxiliary finishing.

What are the advantages of drywall?

Drywall as a building material is considered one of the most popular. This is largely due to the low price range. The advantages also include an impressive number of unique properties. Among the main advantages are the following:

1. The ability to normalize the indoor climate. This is due to the presence of gypsum in the composition, which absorbs excess moisture and releases it if necessary.
2. High fire resistance. The material smolders at the most high temperatures without releasing any harmful substances.
3. Impressive finishing speed using this material when compared with other building materials. On average it takes 1-2 days.

Important! It is necessary to take into account the recommendations for choosing the preferred drywall. It is worth giving preference to material marked VGKL. This designation indicates that the material is highly resistant to moisture. As a result, its use is allowed even in conditions of high humidity.


Of course, the material also has some disadvantages. These include a tendency to fracture and low strength even under light loads. But correct installation and the absence of special damage help eliminate any negative aspects.

How is preparation for finishing carried out?

If you are wondering how to cover an attic with plasterboard, you should understand that it is initially necessary preparatory stage. Regardless of what floor the attic space is located on or what type of drywall is chosen, the preparation is standard.

Preparation is based on the implementation of two main points. They will determine the success of the event as a whole. Initially, you should make sure that the roof is in perfect condition without any leaks or damage. It should be understood that it will not be possible to correct the situation after finishing the attic with plasterboard is completed.

If we omit the need for this, the consequences can be quite obvious. These include the appearance of smudges on sheets of drywall. Most often they appear in autumn and spring, when the weather is pleasant with frequent rains. If your roof needs repairs, it needs to be addressed urgently. This will not only extend the service life of the roof, but will also eliminate problems with subsequent design, which is also important.


Many people decide to decorate on dry or sunny days. In this case, they simply do not know whether there are any problems with the roof. If you are not sure, you should wait for the season. It will allow you to understand where exactly the damage is and how to correctly approach the issues of correcting it.

The next stage of preparation is the examination of the load-bearing elements of the roof. This is an inspection of rafters and beams. They must be strong and reliable so that the stability of the roof structure is beyond doubt. It is also worth making sure that these parts do not accumulate dampness, rot or mold. All wood elements in any case, they need to be dried and processed in order to prevent deformation during subsequent finishing.


Selection of tools and materials

All building materials and tools are prepared in advance for finishing attic floor plasterboard was done quickly and without stopping. Among the building materials for finishing, you should stock up on the following:

1. Wooden bars or profiled metal products. The frame for the structure and its finishing will be made from them.
2. Drywall. You can immediately prepare blanks for finishing.
3. Fastening elements. These include self-tapping screws and special hangers for attaching the finish.

The tool is also important; without it, it will not be possible to complete the finishing efficiently and quickly. First of all, the following tools are important:




How to assemble the frame?

Finishing the attic with plasterboard requires the creation of a frame. For small rooms, the frame can be wooden, and the facing material is secured by stuffing various slats and bars onto the rafters and beams. It is these that are subsequently sheathed with plasterboard.


If the room is impressive and you plan to do the work efficiently, choose to create a metal frame. It will be needed in following situations:

1. Large area of ​​the attic floor.
2. The desire to add originality and originality appearance premises. A complex frame with a non-standard shape will help with this.
3. Inability to fix plasterboard sheets on the internal sheathing of the roof structure.

Creating a frame for the attic floor is similar to creating frame structures for any other premises. The algorithm assumes the initial installation of guides around the perimeter of the room. Next, rack profiles are installed in 60 cm increments, the installation of which must be carried out carefully. Particular attention is paid to areas near doors and window openings. Here the step may differ from the established one in order to achieve a repetition of the contour of the opening.

When installing the frame for finishing the attic, certain difficulties may arise. The main thing is to repeat the contours of the room, in particular the roof structure with a complex shape. As a result, it is necessary to follow the contours of the roof in order to save as much usable space as possible.


The installation itself can be done according to the following methods:

1. Fastening the material with segments.
2. Free finishing.
3. Fixation using a special adhesive composition.

The second finishing option is considered the most preferable. This is explained by the absence of gaps and tight fixation. The first method is efficient and easy to use. We advise you to read: and.


Features of attic cladding

Sheathing the attic with plasterboard is done in one layer. Two layers of finishing are required in rare cases when there is a need to further increase the strength of the skin. At the same time, for the rough layer, you can choose materials that are not presentable in appearance, which allows you to save some money on the cladding. It should be understood that creating two layers of finishing is serious work that will take much more time.

The sheathing procedure itself is generally simple. It can be characterized by just two operations:

1. Attaching a sheet of material to the sheathing.
2. It is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. The pitch between fasteners can be about 20 cm.

When planning to decorate the attic floor of your own home, do not forget about such material as drywall. Its numerous advantages and ease of installation undoubtedly make it attractive to the thrifty owner of a private home.

However, covering an attic with plasterboard requires both knowledge of the general technology of working with plasterboard and adherence to certain principles necessary when arranging a room with a complex configuration.

This article is devoted to how to sheathe an attic with plasterboard correctly.

Choosing drywall for the attic

The beginning of any construction, after drawing up a design project, is, of course, the choice necessary materials for its implementation. Therefore, having decided to use drywall in the attic as the main finishing material, you need to choose one that is most suitable for the premises in a private house.

In the attic, it is most advisable to use plasterboard sheets with the following properties:

• , to ensure resistance to possible leaks and changes in humidity levels;

• , which are most relevant in a wooden house.

The optimal choice would be moisture resistant drywall(GKLVO), which has green paper layer and red markings.

An example of a sheathed attic with moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets

Required tools and material

In order to finish the attic with your own hands, you need to take care of.

The minimum tool set consists of the following items.

1. For marking:

• roulette;
• vertical and horizontal levels;
• hydraulic level;
• plumb line;
• square, pencil, marker.

1. For cutting:

• , if it is necessary to perform figured cuts;
• metal scissors for cutting metal profiles.

1. For fastening sheets and profiles:

• screwdriver;
• hammer drill or hammer drill if the foundation of the house is made of blocks;

1. For finishing:

• seam cutting knife;
• narrow and wide spatulas;
• brushes if you plan to paint drywall.

From additional materials you will need the following items.

1. , including:

• wall, thickness 12.5 mm or more;
• , 9.5 or 8 mm;
• connecting elements;

1. Self-tapping screws of the following types:

1. Antiseptic for wood processing.

• gypsum, for sealing seams;
• polymer, for finishing preparation sheets for painting.

1. to strengthen seams and corners, as well.

The list of materials and tools can be expanded if it is intended complex design attics.

Stages of finishing an attic with plasterboard

Finishing the attic with plasterboard is carried out in several successive stages.

Preparing the attic surface and marking

The preparatory stage is the basis not only for the entire subsequent process of finishing work, but also directly affects the comfort and durability of the attic floor.

When marking, you must first think through its configuration and determine where the walls, partitions and plasterboard ceiling in the attic will be located.

Read also

Installing a vapor barrier under drywall

Watch the video: tips for marking the attic.

The correct order of work is as follows.

1. Wooden surfaces must be treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent wood rotting.
2. Depending on the shape attic room It is necessary to mark the location of the corners on the rafters:
3. One line, if a traditional rectangular shape of the room is assumed;
4. Two lines, if the attic requires sloping walls.

Options for creating living space in the attic

When making marks, it is necessary to ensure that the horizontal level is maintained both within one wall and in projection onto the opposite wall.

To obtain optimal results, it is advisable to use laser level for precision marking.

1. Mark the ceiling line along the gable parts of the attic by connecting the extreme marking points on the walls.
2. Transfer the lines corresponding to the walls to the floor using a plumb line or vertical level.
3. Next, we will mark the profile fastening lines on the inclined wall, if provided for by the project. To do this, mark the pediment markings with an indentation of 10 cm and a step of no more than 60 cm. The resulting points are connected by horizontal lines.
4. Along the resulting lines, the attachment points of direct suspensions are drawn, the pitch of which is 50 cm.

It should be noted that how the plasterboard sheets will be installed in the future will depend on the quality of the markings, so the correct installation diagram applied to the walls is very important.

Assembling a metal frame

The next step is to install the frame base from the profile, which is performed in the following order:

1. Mounting the frame on the wall:

• Initially, the guides are cut and fixed on the gables with a distance of 10 cm from the wall and their horizontalness is checked;

Mounting method metal profiles for suspensions

• further, the guides for vertical walls are placed and fastened, and it is recommended to use the type of profile intended for installing partitions, since hangers are not used for its fastening;

Fastening metal profiles to wood without the use of hangers

• the next step is to install guides along the marking line on the floor;
• after that, they are installed cut along the guides at least 60 cm apart and secured with self-tapping screws.

Pay attention to the video: installation of drywall in the attic.

1. Installation of a metal frame on the ceiling:

• At the marking points on the ceiling, direct hangers are attached to the beams using self-tapping screws;
• the cut ceiling profile is inserted into the guides and fixed to the hangers in the usual way, maintaining a horizontal level.

Most in a simple way To level the profile on the ceiling is to stretch the transverse twines, which allows you to make plasterboard ceilings even.

The photo shows options for attaching a metal profile under drywall in the attic.

After placing all the main elements of the frame under the drywall, it is necessary to strengthen it with transverse jumpers, installed every 50 cm and secured with special connecting crabs on self-tapping screws.

If you are planning an attic with a device, then its frame is installed in the same way as for the walls.

Installed insulated partition in the attic and covered with plasterboard sheets

Application of wooden frame

Often, wooden sheathing is used as a frame. This is most justified when finishing the attic floor wooden house.

Usage wooden frame for fastening drywall in the attic

The principle of constructing the basis for plasterboard sheathing remains the same:

• the bars are sewn onto the walls and onto the plane of the attic ceiling in increments of at least 60 cm;
• under vertical walls The racks are also installed in 60 cm increments.

In houses with attic-type living space, the usable area increases significantly and lining the attic with plasterboard is the fastest, highest quality and cheap way make it suitable for living.

In addition, if insulation is carried out correctly and radiators are installed there, then this part of the building can be successfully used in winter.

Making a living space out of the attic

In this article we will not touch upon the heating system and its installation, but we will consider two other, no less important issues - how and with what to insulate the walls and how to sheathe the attic with plasterboard.

Although the type of roof is the same, installing gypsum boards allows you to slightly change the internal configuration of the room. But, nevertheless, the finishing principle remains, using which you can do everything to your liking.

Related articles:

Insulation materials and insulation

• One of the materials suitable and convenient for insulating an attic is polystyrene foam of different thicknesses (20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm, 100 mm).
  Lightweight foam blocks are convenient because they do not require special precautions during installation and are very easy to lay and secure between beams and rafters. The gaps left when these panels are joined are blown out polyurethane foam.

• Mineral wool, just like polystyrene foam, is used to insulate the attic, but, unlike the latter, mineral wool is carcinogenic and the dust released during installation is harmful to health.
  This material is obtained from basalt volcanic melts (stone wool), blast furnace slag melts (slag wool) and glass melt (glass wool). Its thickness varies from 20 to 200 mm, and the product is produced in rolls or panel-type briquettes.

If the roof installation was carried out as required by the instructions, it means that inside you should have a vapor-permeable film with the rough side facing you (permeable from inside to outside).

But, suddenly, for some reason, this was not done at the time, then you need to install it now, before installing the insulation. Under roofing material you won’t be able to push it through, so just stretch the film between the rafters, fixing it with a stapler, and the final fastener can be made thin wooden planks(nail along the rafters).

The distance between the rafters depends on the load on them, so it is not the same in different houses and the insulation must be adjusted individually for each attic. If thermal insulation is made with foam plastic, then it must be made 2-3 mm larger than the opening so that the panel fits tightly into seat and didn’t fall out of there.

And here, mineral wool you can do 5-7 cm more, after all, this is soft material, and even if this does not hold it between the beams, then glue strips of tape for temporary fixation.

Make sure that there are no gaps left anywhere in the insulation, so if it is polystyrene foam, then blow them out with polyurethane foam, and compact the mineral wool with its scraps. Pay attention to doors and windows - it is near them that the blockage may most often be insufficiently dense.

After installing the insulation with your own hands, you need to cover it with a layer of vapor-permeable film, and again, the rough side should go inward so that the moisture moves towards the street. You just need to staple the insulation to wooden rafters attics.

You can also secure the film later by nailing it under the gypsum board onto a metal sheathing.

Drywall frame

Well, how can you cover an attic with plasterboard if there is no sheathing? That's right, it needs to be done and this is best done from metal profiles for drywall. We are currently considering the sheathing (not the partition), so for it we will need CD and UD profiles, as well as U-shaped metal hangers, not to mention self-tapping screws of different sizes for wood and metal.

CD profiles come in lengths of 3 and 4 meters, and their width is 60 mm with a thickness of 27 mm. The thickness of the metal depends on the manufacturer and ranges from 0.4 to 0.7 mm, which mainly determines the price of the product. The UD is made of the same metal and has the same length, but the width and thickness are 27x27 mm.

U-shaped hangers are used as consoles for fastening sheathing under plasterboard, which, in turn, are attached to wooden rafters using self-tapping screws. But finishing the attic floor with plasterboard can also be done not only on the sheathing, but also with the help of partitions, for which the UW and CW profile configuration is used.

The CW and UW profiles used for partitions have the same thickness - 50 mm, but their width can be 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm - you can choose any one for the desired thickness of the future wall (in the photo above there is a 50x50 mm profile). Metal guides of any type are fastened together with small (11 mm) metal screws, popularly called fleas.

Insulation is also used in partitions, but it no longer serves for thermal insulation, but to dampen sound. That is, it is intended not only for sound insulation separate room, but also to dampen vibrations of the partition itself, because a hollow device made of metal and plasterboard will produce a booming sound even with a slight impact.

Profiles that edge any openings should be strengthened wooden beams. For future installation of heating radiators or wall cabinets the frame is reinforced with boards or OSB (for attaching brackets).

Advice. The subtitle did not contain a specific description of the installation of a metal frame or sheathing, and this is not without reason, because the configuration of the room may require both vertical and horizontal placement of gypsum boards.
The most important thing is that the plane of one sheet should have at least 4 profiles (every 30 cm) for longitudinal intersection, and at least 6 (every 50 cm) for transverse intersection.

Installation of the GKP on the frame

• The lining of the attic with plasterboard begins with a whole sheet - the cut (outer) pieces will be installed later. Please note that about 60 self-tapping screws (every 30 cm from each other) should be used for one gypsum board, but much more is required for the same area (3m2) consisting of pieces. The depth of recess of the screw head under the plane should be 1-1.5 mm.

• The depth of immersion of the self-tapping screw under the plane of drywall is great importance, because a cap that is flush or protrudes by at least a fraction of a millimeter will interfere with the putty (grooves remain), and when wallpaper is pasted, rusty spots appear.
  If the screw breaks upper layer cardboard and ends up in the sludge body, the fixation will weaken several times. But 1-1.5 mm is just enough to cover the metal with putty and hold the sheet, so use a special nozzle for drywall with a lampshade, size PH-2.

• As a supplement to the article, you can see a video on the same topic, but, nevertheless, it does not hurt to mention that the attic is subject to vibration under strong wind loads, so you should pay special attention to the drywall joints.
  So, regular sealing with putty or tile adhesive may not be enough, so before putting putty, seal the joint with adhesive sickle tape for reinforcement.
  

Advice: if the attic made of plasterboard is highly susceptible to vibration, then serpyanka for reinforcing the joints may not be enough.
Take a paper bag from under the cement and cut it into strips 5-6 cm wide - glue them to the joints using PVA.
Corner joints of sheets (wall junctions and roof breaks) can generally be sealed not just with tape, but with a sickle sheet.

Conclusion

Any plasterboard in the attic can be used - ceiling, wall and moisture resistant, everything will depend on its intended purpose. Also, further finishing can be completely different, because the sheets can be puttied, painted, wallpaper and ceramic tiles can be glued onto them.