How to properly place a hammer on the handle: step-by-step process. Do-it-yourself mechanic's hammer Wedging the hammer handle
Good health, gentlemen steampunkers!
We drive the wedge with a hammer, having previously lubricated it with PVA glue. 
The result of the work done. The advantage of such an assembly of the tool is obvious; firstly, it does not dry out, and secondly, it acts as a shock absorber during operation. 
An ax assembled using the method described above. The rubber gasket is clearly visible. 
The method has been tested over the years, my grandfather’s ax, after restoring the handle, served well for many years... when it fell into my hands, I poured into it my vision and attitude towards the tool and changed the handle, now it looks like this. 
I restored this hammer, the head was homemade and very unsuccessful - the hole for the handle was very small and narrow, I had to widen it, the metal was very difficult to process, and I decided to use the old method, using a strip of rubber from a car camera as a seal... 
The red seal is not rubber, it is a cap, matched to the diameter of the handle of a small hammer, I don’t know what it is made of, but it is elastic, the assembly method is the same. 
Some of these hammers are still waiting their turn to be upgraded with a rubber product...
Good luck in your creativity!
Keep your instrument in in perfect order, love him and he will answer you back
And finally, instructions for use... I advise you to read it, it's fun.
Absolutely not everyone modern man will be able to place the hammer on the handle. It would seem simple, but when performing such work, most home craftsmen encounter some problems. This is due to the fact that in order to maintain the tools in in good condition it is necessary to regularly encounter them and understand the principle of their structure.
Today on the construction market there are hammers whose handles are made of metal or synthetic materials and, accordingly, there is no need to plant it. However, along with modern tools It is often practiced to use traditional hammers with a wooden handle.
Why is it necessary to attach the handle?
Popularity wooden handles due not only to their cheapness. The tree is lightweight material, and for hammers this is extremely important parameter. The handle should be light in weight, and his head should be weighty. This is necessary to increase the impact force. Using homemade wooden holders, a person has the opportunity to adjust the tool depending on his anthropometric characteristics, taking into account the thickness of the handle, its length and other dimensions.
For normal operation tools must be kept in perfect order. This is especially necessary if you have to use tools quite often. To drive several nails a couple of times a year, you can use a bad hammer with a dry handle. However, if the hammer is the most necessary tool to work, it must be maintained in excellent condition. If the instrument is not in proper condition, then you risk not only injuring yourself, but also causing harm to others if its striking part comes off.
It is important to note that on loose tools this happens quite often, not only due to wear of the material, but also due to improper seating of the striking part on the holder. In addition, the wood used as a handle is of particular importance.
What wood material is used for the hammer handle?
First of all, it is necessary to exclude the type of wood that easily splits and cracks. These include spruce, pine, aspen, alder, etc. At the same time, it is recommended to use hornbeam, maple, rowan, dogwood, ash, oak, beech or birch as a handle for metalworking steel hammers.
Before turning wood the material must be pre-dried, since the hammer must be placed exclusively on dry wood.
This is due to the fact that during the drying process, any material decreases in size, water evaporates and its volume decreases. If you use an insufficiently dried handle when seating the hammer, then over time it will dry out, constantly wobble and fall off.
Video “How to make a hammer that doesn’t fall off”
Choosing a Hammer Handle Shape
According to GOST, 3 forms are used to make a hammer holder. However, the master can create other ergonomically convenient shapes of handles at his discretion. This is often practiced when self-production handles, but correctly, one of the GOST variants is taken as a basis.
When making holders, it is important to take into account the fact that the size of the workpiece must be longer than what is needed in the end. The maximum margin is about 5 cm. Mainly, the handle should taper towards the end that faces the striking part of the instrument.
The process of attaching a handle to a hammer
Often the hammer head opening size at the top and bottom entry is slightly wider than in the middle. Thus, the dimensions of the blank for the handle in the thin end part must correspond to the dimensions of the holes in the middle of the striking part of the tool. It is imperative to check that the hole for the handle of the striker is well made with the tool. You can see how this was done in the photo.
It shows the head of an old hammer, which requires preliminary processing. Without this work, it will be impossible to install the handle. Paying attention to the picture, we can see that the casting of the striker was done quite poorly, there are large deposits of metal and unevenness, each entrance to the holes on both sides differs by 6-8 mm from the middle of the striker.
To correct all defects and irregularities, it is necessary to process the internal and outside hammer head using a file. Then you need to insert the thin end of the handle into the bottom hole of the hammer to adjust all the dimensions correctly. The tip of the handle should be flush with the opposite side of the firing pin. If the handle is thicker than the corresponding holes, then it must be sanded In the way that the element was inserted into the hole of the hammer with a certain interference.
Due to the fact that at the end of the handle we achieve a flat cone, then with more deep dive the head of the hammer will be pulled tighter. It is worth noting that during this process it is important to take into account that the firing pin on the handle is not distorted, but is installed at a right angle.
To hammer the handle into the hole of the striker, it is necessary to hit it with the back side in a vertical position on an anvil, workbench tabletop, etc.
Due to its weight, the striking part of the hammer will slowly press against the expanding cone of the handle under the influence of its weight. At the same time, it is strictly not recommended to hammer or hard objects into the back of the handle, as this will lead to its splitting. This method can only be used when mounting a non-metallic striking part (wooden or plastic), for example, for a mallet.
After the head of the hammer is firmly seated and movement of the handle in the striking part is no longer observed, it is necessary to saw off the protruding part using hacksaw blade, having first retreated half a centimeter above the impact heads. This is why it is necessary to use a longer workpiece.
Wedging the hammer handle
Often, purchased hammers have incorrectly driven wedges. Basically, a metal plate is hammered into the center of the longitudinal axes at the end of the handle. Because of this, over a short period of time, the handle becomes loose and loose in the firing pin hole. To avoid this, it is necessary to make a notch on the back of the handle, the depth of which will be about 0.5 cm. To do this, you can use a narrow chisel. The notch must be made so that it is located not along, but across the entire length of the end. If done incorrectly, the handle may split during the process of driving the wedge. It is important that the wedges fit tightly into the handle, slowly pushing the wood layer apart.
For wedges, it is recommended to remove the same type of wood from which the handle itself is made. The dimensions of the Wedge are about 2-3 mm in thickness and width and about 1.5 cm, it all depends on the size of the hammer. In this case, the wedge should not be long length, maximum about 4-5 cm, otherwise it will simply break during the process of driving it into the handle. The front part of the wedge must be sharpened at an obtuse angle. Before driving the wedge, it must be lubricated. It is recommended to use as a lubricant silicone sealant. Thanks to this substance, it will not only be easily immersed in the wood, but will also be securely fixed in the handle.
After the client has been hammered, the protruding end of the handle must be sawed off again In the way that the protrusion of the hammer head was no more than 2-3 mm.
If you use dry wood for the handle, it will be enough to drive one wedge, but if the material is softer, then it is recommended to drive a second, but this time metal wedge. Its width and thickness should be the same as that of wood, but the length should not exceed 2 cm.
The wedges are driven completely flush with the back of the handle. After all the basic work has been completed, it is necessary to finally process the handle using large and small species sandpaper. After this, the handle of the instrument is impregnated with drying oil and varnished. There is no need to use paint for coating.
The method described above for attaching a handle to a hammer is quite reliable. There is nothing complicated here. Having made the attachment according to all the rules, you will forget about hammering nails into the handle and screwing in self-tapping screws, which is often practiced by many craftsmen to avoid dangling the handle during work.
Video “How to properly attach a hammer”
A hammer is the most important tool in the house. And he will hammer a nail, and split a nut, and straighten the wire. This is the father of all equipment and all tools. The development of hammer production is characterized by high level progress, so you can easily find the most effective tool for each activity. If you do metalwork, then you will need a plumber's hammer. No master can do without this percussion instrument.
The purpose of a plumber's hammer
Humanity has known and used a hammer for a very long time - even at the dawn of existence. This is the very first tool, as well as a weapon. primitive man at the same time. People, as they developed, improved and changed the hammer. The materials of hammers of ancient times corresponded to the development of people and changed in the following sequence: bone - wood - bronze.
The design of the hammer has not changed these days: the butt plate, the striking part with the striker and the handle. The firing pin and the handle are connected to each other through a hole in the body and a wedge driven into the handle. The tail may be various shapes. The body is usually made of steel, but can be made of copper, wood, lead and rubber. The handle is most often made of wood, metal or plastic.
There are many types of hammers. Doctors and architects, cooks and musicians, not to mention carpenters, metalworkers, mechanics and builders, use hammers in their work. The most famous hammers are copper hammers, sledgehammers, straightening hammers, carpenter's hammers, mason's hammers and metalworker's hammers.
It is the last of these, the plumber’s hammer with a round striker, that is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to prolong, direct and increase the effort of the human hand, delivering an energetic blow to the desired point, assisting another tool - a chisel, chisel, punch.
It is convenient for them to make blows for a variety of work: bending, chopping, riveting, straightening, punching holes, hammering and flattening. A plumber's hammer is used to hammer nails, break concrete or ceramic tiles, and shape metal tubes.
Construction of a plumber's hammer
A mechanic's hammer is different from regular topics, which has 2 different strikers in its design - a flat one, which is intended for driving nails, and a tapering one, which is convenient for breaking various objects and surfaces. The tool has a slightly convex, not knocked down or oblique surface of the striker, without hardening, bevels, burrs, potholes and cracks.
The price of locksmith hammers with a square striker is cheaper, so this variety is widely used in locksmith practice for light work. And hammers with a round striker have one advantage, which is that the striking part significantly outweighs the rear, which ensures greater accuracy and impact force.
The force of impact with a plumber's hammer depends on the level of gravity of the working part and the movement of the tool. This speed is regulated by a person, and the severity of the working element is regulated by the manufacturer. The impact part of the tool is made of heat-treated steel to ensure high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers is varied.
The striking part of the hammer is usually mounted on an ergonomic handle made of fiberglass or wood. The handles are predominantly made of hardwood (hornbeam, beech, dogwood or birch) and are at least 250 millimeters long for hammers. Bench hammers weigh 0.4 - 0.8 kilograms.
Making a plumber's hammer
A plumber's hammer has one weak spot - the section of the hammer handle, which is located under the striker. When driving pins, nails, wedges, problems arise, especially on initial stage fastening them, craftsmen often miss the target and usually hit the nail not with the striker, but with this section of the handle.
As a result, chips and gouges appear on the handle. Hammers very often become loose, fly off the handle, or break. And buying a plumber's hammer does not guarantee the opposite, since plumber's hammers do not have a special tongue for protection, as, for example, in axes.
Of course, in retail outlets and construction stores there are hammers with plastic or metal handles, which are completely devoid of the problem of fitting the head, but the traditional ones are locksmith hammers with wooden handles. In addition, they fit more securely in the hand and are warmer to the touch.
Therefore, today we will make a DIY hammer with a wooden handle. Remember that it is enough to firmly and securely fasten the handle on it once, and it will work without question.
Handle of a plumber's hammer
So, let's start by making a handle for a plumber's hammer. First, let's talk about the dimensions: the handle should have an oval cross-section, approximately 250 - 350 millimeters long, tapering smoothly towards the end on which the tool head will be mounted. The best wood for making a handle is beech, oak, birch, maple, hornbeam, ash or rowan. It is considered absolutely unacceptable to make handles from easily scratchy wood: spruce, pine, alder or aspen.
Most often, handles for plumbing hammers are made from birch. To do this, you will need a small board, from which you need to carve the shape of a handle according to technological map making a plumber's hammer, then sand it well using construction sandpaper.
If you plan a handle from a thick birch branch, it must be dried in a warm, well-ventilated and shady place. Do not try to dry wood using artificial heat sources: air heaters, electric fireplaces and radiators, because with such drying the wood will inevitably crack and lose its strength.
If the wooden handle for a plumber's hammer is not sufficiently dried, it will dry out over time and decrease in volume. And therefore the head will dangle on it, constantly trying to fly off the hammer handle. To make the handle even smoother, it is recommended to coat it with a special furniture varnish. That's it, the handle for the plumber's hammer is ready, you can move on to the next stage.
Connection of head and handle
After making the handle, you need to insert its thin end into the hole in the tool head. It is considered ideal to fit the head of a metalworker's hammer on the handle with a certain force or “with interference,” as the craftsmen used to say.
If the handle turns out to be thick, you should first process its thin end with a rasp, and then with sandpaper. The end of the hammer handle should ultimately be a gentle cone. Place the head of the plumber's hammer on the handle, making sure it is perpendicular to the axis of the handle.
Hold the handle strictly vertically, with the head of the hammer up, and strike it with the back wide end hard surface in the direction from top to bottom. With each blow, the head of the plumber's hammer is slowly but surely pressed onto the expanding handle, becoming stronger and stronger on it. During subsequent blows, the immobility of the tool head indicates that it has firmly “sat” on the handle.
Wedging the hammer handle
There are several methods for making a plumber's hammer, but the most reliable is to use wedges. You can make wedges for a plumber's hammer with your own hands. Prepare a place for a wooden wedge. To prevent it from going to the side and damaging the handle, use a narrow chisel to make a notch that is approximately 5 millimeters deep, at an angle of 30 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the hammer.
A wooden wedge is a blade that is approximately 3 millimeters thick, approximately 15 millimeters wide, and ranges in length from 30 to 50 millimeters. The wedge should gradually taper towards the front, but its end must be made blunt.
After you hammer the wooden wedge 15-20 millimeters into the handle of the plumber's hammer, saw it off with a fine-tooth hacksaw top part the handle that sticks out from the head of the hammer, so that it protrudes beyond the boundaries of the head by at least 2-3 millimeters.
Cut the second wedge from a strip of metal of the same shape and size as the wood wedge, but make it shorter - no more than 20 millimeters long. Take a sheet of iron that is about half a centimeter thick. Sharpen the wedge on a special machine and hammer it into the handle at the same acute angle to the longitudinal axis of the hammer of 30 degrees, but from the center line on the other side.
After the metal wedge is completely driven “flush” into the hammer handle, the work on making a plumber’s hammer can be considered completed. Then you should place the plumber's hammer in water for 5 hours so that the wood swells. When the wood dries, the plumber's hammer will no longer wobble.
Using a plumber's hammer
Hammering a nail into a board using a plumber's hammer is not such an easy task, although it may seem so at first glance. If you make a bad hammer, then the surface underneath will break through and dents will appear, and this is not the most pleasant outcome. To drive a nail, make sure it fits work surface. Finish the job with 2-3 strikes.
In order for the connection to be strong, the nail must penetrate at least one third into the working surface. To make the connection rigid, drive the nails towards each other at an angle. The board will not split if the nail has a diameter of no more than one-fourth of its thickness. If you have to hammer a nail into a thin piece of wood, first use a pair of pliers to bite off its tip, which can tear and split the wood. It is easier to drive a nail into wet wood with a plumber's hammer than into dry wood.
When driving a nail into dry wood, hold it in the middle with pliers so that it does not bend under the resistance of the dry wood. The boards, which are about 10-12 centimeters wide, are fastened with one nail, wide boards nailed with two nails. If you need to drive multiple nails, place them in a staggered pattern in several rows rather than in a straight line. A fairly convenient substitute for driving nails with human fingers is wooden clothespin or a narrow strip of paper folded in half.
Making an ax
There is an ax handle different shapes. Made from tough wood: birch, ash, maple, elm, beech, hornbeam. It should be made not from a board, but from a block of wood or logs, which is important for its strength. Having thus drawn the shape of the ax handle on the blank, the excess wood is removed with an axe, knife, chisel, leaving a thickening at the end of the ax handle, which is necessary for safety in work, so that the ax does not slip out of your hands.
The manufactured ax handle is checked for mounting, i.e. put an ax on it, correct all inaccuracies, cut off the excess and clean the ax handle. After this, the ax is removed, a groove is cut into the ax handle for inserting a wedge, and the ax is mounted.
Making handles for hammers
Hammer handles are made from straight grain hardwood. The hammer is placed on the handle, the excess is cut off, a sharp steel wedge is inserted and wedged as tightly as possible. A poorly secured hammer is dangerous to work with.
In addition to wedges, they also use this method: they drill 30-50 mm below the hammer through hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm. From this hole, on both sides of the handle to its top, two grooves are cut along the diameter of the holes - so that the wire can then be very accurately laid in these grooves. The hammer is removed, a 3-4 mm wire is inserted into the hole, and bent so that it fits into the grooves. The hammer is inserted (the wire enters the hole of the hammer along with the handle), the excess wire is cut off, leaving the ends 5-10 mm long, and they are bent over the top of the hammer.
Making handles for chisels and chisels
Handles for chisels and chisels are made from hard, tough wood. The shape of the handles may vary. Handles for chisels are fastened with metal rings for strength. It is better to strike the handle not with a hammer, but with a mallet.
Handles are placed on chisels and chisels in different ways. For example, first drill a hole of such a diameter that the shank of a chisel or chisel fits into it with some effort. Sometimes a hole of two diameters is drilled: the first is larger, the second is smaller. The hole should not be the entire length of the shank, but 15-20 mm shorter.
Having drilled a hole, the workpiece is processed until the desired shape, insert the shank into the hole and push the tool onto the back of the handle. You can clamp the tool in a vice, put on the handle and hit it with a hammer or mallet.
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The last thing is that the round attacker locksmith is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to expand, direct and increase the efforts of the human hand, to strike energetically at the desired point, to assist another tool - a chisel, a chisel, a center punch.
It is appropriate to hit various tasks: bending, cutting, riveting, say holes, hammer and light. Bench hammers, concrete pumps or ceramic tile, metal pipe molds.
Construction mechanic
The hammer bench differs from the usual in the design of two different attackers - even though it is designed to connect with nails and tapers towards the end, which is suitable for breaking various objects and surfaces. The tool is slightly convex, not mirrored or slanted, and free of hardened work, bends, burrs, holes, and cracks.
The price of square hammer hammer is cheaper so this grade is used in metals for light work.
The round hammer has one advantage, that is, the striking part is significantly higher than the back side, which provides greater accuracy and impact force. fiberglass metal hammer
The impact force of the lock depends on the severity of the workpiece and the movement of the tool. This speed is controlled by the person, and the severity of the working element is controlled by the manufacturer.
The impact of the tool is made from heat-treated steel, which provides high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers varies.
Hammer impact is commonly used for ergonomic fiberglass or wood handles. For the handle, mostly hardwood (grape, beech, wood or birch) is used and hammers are at least 250 millimeters long.
Locksmiths have a weight of 0.4 to 0.8 kilograms.
Locksmiths (Table 1) are manufactured with round (Fig. 1a) and square impacts.
Hammer technology map:
I move surfaces I, II, III, IV with drunk and personal files.
2 Coating with copper sulfate solution.
3 Complete the layout of the workpiece, see below and Figure 2.
fourth
Make a complete mark on the workpiece: use a dash and a ruler to use a center line along the edges.
6 6mm drill holes for 12 or 15mm diameter.
7. The rear side of the attacking VI was visible with a personal file along the radius R.
8. Stigmatize
9 By lifting the heat hammer in the oven to the bright cherry red dirt, you can alternately move the pliers into the cold shock water and 30mm long short socks.
10 Remove the hammer using a sanding cloth; Surface of shooters and toes.
11 Test hammer, tested three times on alloy steel.
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Hammer drawing
Drawing of a hammer that is used in household to perform all kinds of work. 
The hammer consists of three components:
01.
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Wooden handle. The material for making the handle is 1st grade wood (GOST 2695-83) without knots, cracks, rot, sprouts and wormholes (its moisture content is more than twelve percent) or premium birch. 
Metal baize. The baek is made by casting and forging. Manufacturing material – steel 45; 45L; 40X; 50; U7; 60; U8; 50L. There is a through hole made inside the bike with conical surfaces from the center, which allows you to securely attach the bike to a wooden handle using a wedge. 
03.
Metal wedge. Made from metal plate in the form of a wedge. 
The metal baize has two working surfaces. 
One is flat, the other is narrowing, each of which is applied and used for its own purposes.
Definition
Design
Marking
A hammer is a necessary thing in the household. It’s not bad to have several varieties of it in your toolbox. This sometimes greatly facilitates the performance of specific work. But for most household needs, an ordinary, one might say, standard plumber's hammer is quite suitable.
Bench hammer, definition
A hammer is a percussion instrument that is designed for hammering or, conversely, breaking some objects (in the first case, these are usually nails, in the second, for example, contaminated tightly separated joints).
It is also used for some impact work (when manipulating with a chisel or a screwdriver with a thrust bearing). Its mass, dimensions and design features defines GOST 2310-77 “Steel hammers”. He also clarifies the concept of “metalwork” - created for the needs of the national economy and export.
Design
Steel hammer has a mass of 50 grams to 1 kilogram. The design of the tool: a head (for striking the surface being processed), a wedge that holds the first element, preventing it from going “flying” with the next blow, and a handle that serves to increase the swing, and at the same time making the entire object more convenient for the worker .
The working part of a plumber's hammer - the head - also has its own characteristics.
Its two ends: the toe and the striker, differ in shape, which allows them to be manipulated differently.
The firing pin can be round or square. The toe is usually thinner and may be triangular or cylindrical or rounded at the end.
In the photo: 1 - head, 1a - firing pin, 1b - toe, 2 - handle.
According to GOST, a mechanic's hammer must have a head made of steel grade 50 or U7.
Other brands that are not inferior in properties to those mentioned are also allowed. Required condition– the presence of a protective or protective-decorative coating. Being steel, the tool head is usually galvanized. The coating can be oxide, phosphate, followed by oiling or painting with enamel or varnish.
The material for the wedge is usually steel.
In this case, it will have notches (otherwise “ruffs”) for better connection with handle. Manufacturers, however, are allowed to use both hardwood and wood glue to later fit the head onto the handle.
Wedge material
According to GOST, a steel hammer can have one of three types of handles.
The most common of them is an oval-shaped handle with a rectangular cross-section. Others are its modifications, oval-shaped with a narrowing or double narrowing for greater ease of operation. GOST allows other ergonomic forms. The width of the handles, depending on the size of the mounted heads, ranges from 18 to 41 mm.
DIY carved hammer handle
Length – from 200 to 400 mm. Household hammers often have a handle length of 250 to 350 mm and a corresponding head weighing from 100 to 400 grams.
Sometimes it happens that the usual appearance of instruments quickly becomes boring and is in no way original, since it does not stand out from the others in any way, which, as usual, looks dull and does not cause any delight. That is why the idea of creating a carved hammer handle was undertaken, and I will tell you how the author made it in this article. Before moving on to the process of making a carved handle, you need to decide on the choice of tool, namely in this case hammer, as it is very popular in the workplace of every do-it-yourselfer.
In order to make a carved pen with your own hands, we will need:
* The hammer itself has a wooden handle, ordinary, standard, in this case 600 grams.
* Wood cutters.
* Stationery knife.
* Drill with grinding attachments.
* Varnish for wooden products.
* Pencil.
Once you are sure that all the details are there, you can begin the creative process.
Step one.
Armed with a pencil, draw the pattern that you want to see on your handle, in this case it is a diamond-shaped pattern that looks quite original and tasteful.
After all the markings are ready, you can start cutting out the template, the so-called removal of the first layer, we do this using a stationery knife, precisely cutting out a part of the wood along the lines. When working with sharp tools, be careful and also do not forget about safety measures; for this, it is better to protect your hands with gloves. In the process of cutting out patterns, for more precise processing of the ends, it is better to cut them with more force so as not to leave burrs.
Step two.
Next, we use cutters designed for carving in wood, with the help of them you will get a deeper place in the patterns, which will give them greater clarity and will look more impressive than a shallow groove. Incisors made in China cannot boast of high reliability and resistance to stress, therefore, during the cutting process, their blades broke repeatedly, so be on the alert, and also work with them carefully, since during processing there is a risk of driving the blade into your hand, which is not a pleasant outcome of events. After final work the cutters turned out something similar to diamonds.
Step three.
The patterns are refined using a drill and a grinding attachment; after this processing process, the handle takes on a more beautiful aesthetic appearance, as well as smooth corners.
When the work with the drill is completed, we make the surface smooth with sandpaper, which must be used to clean all sides of the handle.
Step four.
For greater convenience, the decision was made to make a hole in the handle to place the hammer on a shelf or hang it on a nail next to other tools. We do this using a drill installed in a screwdriver, this hole Then we grind it and enlarge it with a drill.
Step five.
The final stage is to coat the surface of our carved hammer with a preliminary decorative layer, then varnish it in several layers.
