What does Cahors symbolize in the church. Why does the Orthodox Church use only Cahors in the sacraments?

There are many wines whose taste qualities are complemented by a history of origin, real or legendary. Such wines include Cahors, the famous thick church wine of a dark red color, reminiscent of blood. This wine is famous not only for its sacred meaning and taste, it also has many beneficial properties, which can be learned from this material.

Story

The history of the creation of the modern Cahors is quite intricate. The name “Cahors” itself comes from France. There this word is used to call dry red wine., produced in the vicinity of the small town of Cahors. Under Peter I, it began to be exported to Russia, where it was used mainly as church wine.

Already in 1733, the Russian Orthodox Church began to use exclusively Cahors in the sacrament of the Eucharist. This wine attracted church hierarchs with its dark red color, which did not fade even after diluting it with water - such a drink was perfect as a symbol of the blood of Christ.

Since before the advent of Cahors, the wines used by the church were sour, in France they started producing a sweeter drink especially for Russia. Well, in the 19th century, the technology for producing Cahors was mastered already in Russian Empire. It began to be used not only in church ceremonies, but also consumed as table wine. But this drink, in fact, had almost nothing in common with the classic French product.

Important! Nowadays, several varieties of this wine are produced. The Crimean Cahors "Yuzhnoberezhny" is considered the standard, the recipe of which was developed back in the very late XIX century for the wineries of Prince Golitsyn.

Thus, the product produced in the post-Soviet space belongs to fortified dessert wines, while the French one is a dry wine with a low sugar content. And they are often made from different grape varieties.

Compound

To produce Cahors in the post-Soviet space, various varieties of grapes are used. It could be "Merlot" "Saperavi" etc. (French Cahors is made exclusively from Malbec). The sugar content in various varieties is 160-195 g/l (16-20%). Alcohol content is 16-18%. The classic content is 16% alcohol and 16% sugar.

Chemical composition

This drink contains organic compounds belonging to the class of flavonoids. These substances determine the color of the drink. In addition, they are distinguished by antioxidant properties and have the ability to neutralize free radicals, thus slowing down the aging process of the body.

This drink also contains the organic compound resveratrol, which has anti-inflammatory, cardioprotective and antitumor properties, lowering blood sugar levels.

Beneficial features

In addition to the wonderful taste, Cahors has a number of useful properties. This product stimulates appetite and strengthens digestion. It also has many medicinal properties, but this will be discussed in more detail below.

Did you know? Of all the variety of Cahors presented on the market, only Cahors No. 32 is used as church wine in the parishes of the Russian Orthodox Church - it fully complies with all the requirements of the Russian Orthodox Church.

Harmful properties and contraindications

The use of this drink is contraindicated in case of serious diseases of internal organs: liver, kidneys, etc.

Medicinal properties

Back in the Middle Ages, in the monasteries of France, used Cahors as a medicinal remedy. This wine was known as a miraculous elixir and was actively used in medicine as a tonic for the body. But unlike many misconceptions of that era, the healing properties of this wine have been confirmed by modern medicine.

In particular, moderate consumption of this drink has a positive effect on the cardiovascular system of the body.

This product is also used as a prophylactic agent. Researchers have found that drinking this drink reduces the risk of vascular diseases, such as thrombosis, thrombophlebitis, atherosclerosis. Moderate consumption lowers blood cholesterol.

In addition, it has been proven that Cahors slows down the aging process, beneficially affecting the cells of the body. Antioxidants, which are found in abundance in this wine, significantly improve blood circulation, slow down the process of wrinkles and increase the vitality of the entire body. The property of the drink to remove radionuclides from the human body is also known. This wine is even present in the diet of submariners serving on nuclear submarines.

Moderate use of this product allows people to effectively relieve stress and combat nervous fatigue. A glass of wine will help relieve chronic fatigue syndrome and prevent a person from having an emotional breakdown. The main thing is not to abuse it.

Medicine is also known for the antiviral properties of this drink. Hot church cohors alleviates the condition of patients with colds, such as acute respiratory infections, acute respiratory viral infections, and influenza. It has a beneficial effect on the human immune and endocrine systems. In dentistry, this product is recommended as a gum strengthening agent and also prevents caries.

Consumption of 200-300 grams of Cahors optimizes digestion and has the most positive effect on the metabolism in the body. Moderate consumption of the product helps get rid of hostile microflora in the intestines and helps to effectively remove toxins from the body.

Cahors during pregnancy - benefit or harm

The use of Cahors, Like any other alcohol, during pregnancy it is not completely impossible, but it should be done with great caution and only when the pregnant woman really needs it. In any case, it is better to consult your doctor about the possibility of using this product during pregnancy.

Important! Abuse of alcoholic beverages, or even slightly exceeding the recommended servings during pregnancy can lead to the birth of a child with various abnormalities.

How to choose

This wine varies in degree of aging. It may be ordinary(without aging in barrels), ordinary seasoned(six months of aging) and vintage(up to three years of aging in barrels). Aging information must be indicated on the label. The alcohol content should be 16-18%, and the sugar content should be at least 16%. Sugar and alcohol content levels below the minimum acceptable levels indicate counterfeiting.

It is better to buy this product in specialized stores, where there is much less chance of purchasing a counterfeit product. The bottle should be dark glass, and clay bottles are not suitable containers for any wines; in such vessels they quickly become unusable. Sediment in the bottle is unacceptable. The shelf life of this drink is limited, it is indicated on the label and is no more than five months.

The quality of an already purchased product can be checked at home in several ways. A real Cahors must retain its rich Red color, even if it was diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. Another way is to add soda to the drink. If the drink takes on a bluish tint, then it is counterfeit. You can also determine the quality of the drink in the following way: take a bottle of wine and water into another container, hold the bottle with your finger, turn it over, put it in the water and remove your finger. If the quality of the product is good, it will remain in the bottle.

Did you know? During the Great Patriotic War Cahors "Uzbekistan", produced in Uzbekistan, was widely used as a general tonic for military personnel recovering from wounds.

As we see, Cahors- not only an excellent dessert wine, but also a drink with numerous medicinal properties. It has few contraindications, but abuse of this drink, like any alcohol, can negatively affect the body.

Cahors is, perhaps, the only representative of a group of standard classic wines made to order, which was made by the Russian Orthodox Church with the aim of celebrating the Sacrament of the Eucharist (Thanksgiving) in memory of the atoning sacrifice of Jesus Christ.

It owes its name to the French city of Cahors, located near the Pyrenees, in the vicinity of which intensely colored grape varieties are grown - Saperavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Matrasa, Bastardo, Merlot, etc. Such a responsible order could only be entrusted to experienced winemakers familiar with the technology of red wine production. As for the type and quality of wine used in worship, this is stated in the “Teaching News” - “To celebrate the Sacrament of the Eucharist, grape wine must be used, since the Savior Himself performed the Sacrament on this very wine. Grape wine must be red in order to appearance depicted for sensual eyes the prenatural blood of the Savior served in the Eucharist, especially since the Savior undoubtedly consumed red wine at the Last Supper, which was in common use in Palestine. And the Holy Church from time immemorial has used red grape wine in the Sacrament of the Eucharist.”

Ancient Rus', not having its own vineyards, did not establish a clear taste attitude towards wine. Our ancestors liked sweet wine more, like other intoxicating drinks containing sugar (honey, beer), therefore the church wine ordered by the French had a traditional taste - sweet.

History of Russian church wine originates in the 17th century. In the first years of the spread of Christianity in Rus', church wine was imported from Greece by Greek priests, and then Italian wines were used for this purpose. The Council of the Hundred Heads in 1551 allowed only Fryazh wine to be consumed in monasteries (Russian chroniclers called Italians “fryags”). Subsequently, wine was purchased by the Russian Church at the Molozhskaya, Makaryevskaya and Novgorod fairs from foreign merchants. And only at the beginning of the 17th century did Persian merchants bring Transcaucasian grape vines and gave them to a local monk to plant near the monastery. The harvest of these vines produced the first church wine in Russia. In 1613, by order of Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich, the monk was instructed to supply wine for the church table and in 1658, Voivode Romadanovsky sent 41 barrels of church wine to Moscow. From the royal letter dated January 17, 1659, addressed to the Astrakhan governors, Prince Dmitry Lvov and Nikifor Beklemeshev, it is known that the state winemaking was in charge of Paskajunos Padavin, who was ordered to prepare exclusively church wine. The governors were obliged to ensure that the Russian people sent for training became somewhat “skilled” in the preparation of church wine and could make good wine without a master.

The wine produced was supplied to cathedrals, monasteries and churches only with the authority of the Holy Synod, who received this right in 1733. At this time, Volosh and Moldavian wines were used as church wine. These wines, produced in the wine-growing regions of Russia, were dry. In other regions, imported overseas wines were used. Producing countries chose to send fortified wines, which were better able to withstand long sea transportation. In the 17th-19th centuries, these were wines such as Cahors from France and Benicarlo from Spain.

By the end of the 19th century, the idea of ​​church wine had developed as sweet, moderately strong, intensely red and without impurities. Of the Russian church wines, Crimean wines met these requirements to the greatest extent. In Crimea, the initiator of the production of such wine was the owner of the famous Gurzuf gardens Gubonin. By this time, dessert wines like Cahors had spread throughout Russia, like church wines. At the same time, the church also drinks dry red wines.

Church wine, based on the decision of the Moscow Congress of Winegrowers and Winemakers of 1902, “is allocated from the entire mass of wines consumed in Russia into a completely separate group, subject to the jurisdiction of the spiritual department and can be church-liturgical sweet and church-liturgical dry.”

There is a great need for church wine, which was spent not only for the needs of the church, but also for weddings, name days, funerals, as well as during illness, since the people attributed healing properties to it, it led to its unimaginable falsification. Artificial wines of this type were produced in Moscow, Rostov, Odessa, Nizhny Novgorod from water, blueberry juice, grain alcohol, beet sugar, molasses, prunes, and often with the addition of saccharin, aniline dye, salicylic acid. At the same time, the canons of the Orthodox Church prescribed that “wine is not the essence, and all the juices from various vegetables and berries cannot be drained, such as apple, pear, cherry, thorn, raspberry and other similar ones...”, “In addition this should not be sour, spicy, moldy, rotten or disgusting in any way.”

Metropolitan Gideon of Stavropol and Baku notes that “good church wine... is very, very necessary, but only good. The Church gives communion to the sick and infants and the dying, and it is bad if the wine is of poor quality, sour, or unpleasant in taste. Sin, temptation and criticism."

Cases of falsification of both foreign and domestic wines have been noted since the 17th century. The New Trade Charter of 1667 established the need to maintain the quality of church wine “... church (wine) to import good, without admixture, for church needs...” Even a number of royal decrees were issued regarding the quality of church wines and measures to prevent their counterfeiting. A decree of 1683 gave the right to duty-free import of wine from abroad, and another decree established a ruble duty. In both cases, the punishment for falsifying wine was specifically defined.

As a result of many years of discussions, it was concluded that the best option to combat this evil would be to ensure proper control by the church, from the process of processing grapes to bottling the finished wine.

The history of church wine is being created in our time. Wine was produced at the Yuzhnaya agrofirm in Taman Church, consecrated by the Patriarch of Moscow and All Rus' Alexy II, which became a laureate of many international competitions, the wine received recognition and blessing Grace . This is what he writes to the creators Grace Metropolitan Gideon of Stavropol and Baku: “The unique church wine Grace... fully complies with the strict requirements that apply to wine used in Divine services, especially in the Sacrament of the Eucharist... The product you named Grace may the Grace of the All-Holy Spirit be illuminated and may all the children of Russia who receive communion from her be in the health of soul and body.”

It should be noted that the concepts “Cahors” and “church wine” are not synonymous. Church wine can be represented only by Cahors or Benicarlo, as well as a mixture of them. However, not every Cahors can be used as church wine. For example, an old high-quality Cahors, the color of which is dominated by bulbous brick tones, when diluted three times with water, will not be able to meet the requirements of church wine in terms of this indicator.

Thus, Cahors, originally made as a church wine, later expanded its significance, becoming the founder of a special group of wines. Cahors includes highly extractive sweet wines with an intense red color, exhibiting blackcurrant, cherry-sloe and other specific tones in the taste, determined by the grape variety and technology.

The Russian Orthodox Church is launching its own wine production, RBC found out. The winery is located on 70 hectares of agricultural land near the residence of the patriarch in the Krasnodar region

The Russian Orthodox Church began a winemaking project - its subsidiary planted vineyards in the village of Divnomorskoye, Krasnodar Territory, on the Black Sea coast.

The “daughter” of the Church is called Mezyb LLC; it was registered in 2015 by the financial and economic department of the Russian Orthodox Church and another subsidiary of the Russian Orthodox Church, Sofrino, which produces candles and religious utensils. The main activity of Mezyb LLC, according to the Unified State Register of Legal Entities, is the production of grape wine, as well as the cultivation of grapes, production ethyl alcohol from fermented materials, wholesale and retail alcoholic and other drinks, as well as packaging.

The Mezyb winery is now “under construction,” a company source said. The company plans to begin wine production in 2017. According to the source, “test” vineyards planted in 2012 are already producing harvests. On the Avito website, Mezyb posted an advertisement seeking workers for “weeding, gartering, debris, pruning, watering grapes, harvesting.” When the RBC correspondent called the indicated number, all vacancies had already been filled.

“It’s not possible to buy wine yet,” said the general director of the enterprise, Svetlana Dmitrieva, when an RBC correspondent called under the guise of a buyer. “We are not yet advertising this project,” she wrote in response to RBC’s request for comment. According to SPARK, Dmitrieva is also a co-founder of the Gelendzhik parish cathedral Apostle Andrew the First-Called, and her surname coincides with the surname of the rector of this parish. Before this, Svetlana Dmitrieva headed the logistics companies Soll-R, registered in Novorossiysk, and Smith Terminals Sakhalin LLC (Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk), and she also runs the construction company Andreevsky Pass (owned by the Novorossiysk diocese). At Sofrino and the financial and economic management of the Russian Orthodox Church, by the time the publication was published, they had not responded to RBC’s request; their representatives interviewed by RBC were not aware of the project. “Don’t fool me,” asked the head of the department, Archbishop of Ryazan and Mikhailovsky Mark.

What kind of business does the Russian Orthodox Church do?

In 2000 - the latest available data - the income of the Russian Orthodox Church from its commercial enterprises amounted to 55% of the total budget, RBC wrote, the rest was sponsorship donations and deductions from dioceses. Largest companies- co-owner of Mezybi, art and production enterprise (HPE) Sofrino and the Danilovskaya hotel. Danilovskaya's revenue in 2015 amounted to about 100 million rubles; Sofrino's financial indicators are not disclosed. Sofrino produces candles, icons and bowls, various church utensils - according to sources in the Russian Orthodox Church, the company's products are supplied to approximately half of all church parishes, RBC wrote. For almost 30 years, Sofrino has been led by Evgeny Parkhaev, who until January 2015 was the head of Danilovskaya and Sofrino Bank until his license was revoked in 2014. The Moscow Patriarchate is also a co-owner of Orthodox Ritual Service CJSC, which is not currently operating, but with a functioning subsidiary - Orthodox Ritual Service OJSC with revenue of 70 million rubles. in 2015. The Sretensky Monastery owns the agricultural cooperative “Resurrection” in the Ryazan region, revenue in 2014 was 52.3 million rubles. The tax-free income of the Church, the Federal Tax Service told RBC, amounted to 5.9 billion rubles in 2015, and 5.6 billion rubles in 2014.

The wine-growing lands of the Russian Orthodox Church are located close to the summer residence of the patriarch, which is officially called the “Patriarchal and synodal spiritual-administrative and cultural center of the Russian Orthodox Church.” As stated on the website of the Moscow Patriarchate, the center is equipped with chambers His Holiness Patriarch and permanent members of the Synod, work rooms, conference rooms.

“Several administrative events took place there, but never cultural events,” Vsevolod Chaplin, former chairman of the Synodal Department for Relations between Church and Society of the Moscow Patriarchate, told RBC.

In total, according to the Unified State Register of Real Estate, the Church has about 170 plots with total area approximately 83 hectares south of the village of Divnomorskoye, Gelendzhik district, Krasnodar region. Since the start of construction of the spiritual center in 2005, the Church has managed to expand its holdings several times. Previously, it was known only about 12.7 hectares managed by the church in Gelendzhik - this is how much, according to the administration of the Krasnodar Territory, the Russian Orthodox Church was allocated free of charge for lease on the territory of the forest fund of the Kabardinsky and Gelendzhik forestries. Another 0.7 hectares of the Russian Orthodox Church, according to the Unified State Register, received ownership.

In 2009–2014, the financial and economic management of the Russian Orthodox Church received about 70 more hectares in ownership from private companies and individuals. These are lands for agricultural use, and the Unified State Register extract for one of the plots with an area of ​​1.4 hectares also specifies that it is intended for vineyards.

One of the former owners of the plots told RBC that several years ago he was “voluntarily and compulsorily” asked to sell the land for its subsequent transfer to the Russian Orthodox Church. The buyers explained that they would like to buy his plot and give it to the Patriarchate in the form of charitable donation. The ransom amount, according to RBC's interlocutor, completely satisfied him. The buyers, he said, “made an offer I couldn’t refuse.”

In 2009, a plot of land next to the “patriarch’s dacha” was purchased by the Bank of Moscow and the Capital Trade Bank (STB), and then transferred to the ownership of the Moscow Patriarchate. The ex-owner of STB German Gorbuntsov told RBC that he wanted to make a gift to the Church. The request for help, according to him, came to him from the Russian Orthodox Church itself, but the amount turned out to be too large for the banker, and he found a partner. The banks bought the plot, as follows from the Unified State Register data, and then transferred it to the Russian Orthodox Church free of charge. According to Gorbuntsov, he had previously actively helped the Church financially, but he always invested “in something poor, outlying.” The banker doubts that he could “do anything” for the patriarchal residence. Gorbuntsov sees nothing wrong with the fact that grapes will be grown on the land donated to him for wine production.

Another plot of land, next to the one donated by STB and the Bank of Moscow, was purchased by the Church itself in 2012. The owner of the company that owns the land confirmed to RBC that this was a monetary transaction “on a voluntary basis,” but refused to disclose details.

“The fact that the Church will produce wine has been known for a long time,” two market participants told RBC. “I know that the Church received the land of abandoned vineyards, and they planted new vines. But I don’t know the details of the project,” said Pavel Titov, chairman of the board of directors of Abrau Durso, whose structures own vineyards in the neighborhood. According to him, if all 70 hectares are used for vineyards, the result will be a medium-sized winery. “With such areas, with a good harvest, they will be able to produce over half a million bottles of wine,” estimated Vadim Drobiz, director of the industry agency CIFRRA.

“Before the first “combat” harvest, at least four to five years must pass from the moment of planting. It takes another two years to get wine for sale. This is a long-term project,” calculates Pavel Titov.

In order to receive good harvest, seedlings must be purchased abroad, says Elena Denisova, a member of the board of directors of Chateau le Grand Vostock, which owns vineyards in the Krasnodar region. According to her, in Russia there are no high-quality nurseries capable of providing seedlings for such an area. She estimates investments in the amount of 600 thousand to 900 thousand rubles. per hectare: this is the cost of importing seedlings, planting and caring for them for four years, that is, planting vines on 70 hectares can cost 42–63 million rubles. excluding the construction of the winery.

In the Gelendzhik region, where the residence of the Russian Orthodox Church is located, there are other wineries. Adjacent to the church plots are 80 hectares belonging to the Gelendzhik "Apex South", whose main activity is growing grapes. This company belongs to Nikolai Egorov, a classmate of Vladimir Putin, a famous lawyer, co-owner of one of the largest Russian law firms “Egorov, Puginsky, Afanasiev and Partners”, owner of 20% of the Antipinsky Oil Refinery. He registered Apex South at the end of 2014, and bought the land in February 2015.

30 hectares of wine-growing land north of Divnomorskoye and the same amount in the village of Praskoveevka (near Cape Idokopas) belong to Lazurnaya Yagoda LLC, which is owned by Boris Titov’s Abrau Durso structures.

“Wine is used at every service, at every liturgy. To guarantee quality, large monasteries, where there are many pilgrims, order wine from factories in Russia, Ukraine, Moldova - anywhere,” said the patriarch’s press secretary, priest Alexander Volkov. This wine is not purchased for sale, but for internal needs, he added.

The parishes' need for wine depends on the number of parishioners at the service - about half a bottle of wine is needed per 100 people, says Father Sergius, rector of the Church of St. Sergius of Radonezh in Chapaevsk. During festive services, three times more wine is required, adds the rector of the temple Life-Giving Trinity in Starye Cheryomushki Father Nikolai. Each parish chooses suppliers independently; often, due to small volumes, wine is simply bought in the store; donations in the form of Cahors are also accepted from grateful parishioners. In total, the Russian Orthodox Church has more than 34.5 thousand churches, but not every one of them holds services every day.

Approximately 100 thousand bottles of Cahors per year are directly supplied to church parishes by Massandra, said Yanina Pavlenko, general director of the Massandra association. According to her, the plant’s products are also supplied to churches by their distributors. “This year, for the first time, we will produce dry Cahors without adding alcohol - the priests asked for this, and we listened to their wishes,” said Yanina Pavlenko.

In 2015, Russia imported 840 thousand liters of Cahors from abroad (this type of dessert red fortified wine is traditionally used in religious services), mainly Abkhazian and Bulgarian, for six months of 2016 - 471 thousand liters, according to data from the logistics operator ILS. The cost of imported Cahors for a year and a half amounted to $2.4 million.

It is unknown whether Mezyb LLC will use the wine only for church needs or whether it is intended to be sold through retail. “To do this, they will have to obtain a license to sell alcohol,” notes Drobiz. According to the expert, indicating the “churchiness” of a wine is unlikely to provide an advantage on the shelf.

More details on RBC.

In the southwest of France, in a bend of the Lot River, lies the picturesque town of Cahors. Winemaking has been practiced here since ancient times. According to city residents, the vine solemnly arrived on their lands two thousand years ago to the drumbeat of Roman legionnaires. It was Kaoru (in the free Russian transcription Kagor) who was destined to give the name to Russian church wine. Why this happened is difficult to say today, especially since the current dry kahor has little in common with our sweet fortified kahor. But let's try to figure this out. MillionMenu.ru tells.

In the Middle Ages, fate favored Cahors wines. Cahors is one of the stages of the famous Way of Santiago (St. James, the Apostle of Christ and patron saint of Spain), which means that many pilgrims who visited this city were well aware of the local wine. Thousands of travelers, recovering strength after a difficult journey, having tasted a sip or two of good kahors, later talked about its amazing properties brothers in faith. In the Christian world, kahors were considered extremely beneficial for health.

Another historical fact added to the popularity of these wines: a native of Cahors, Pope John XXII (1316-1334), having become the Supreme Pontiff, showered his hometown with gifts and privileges. Thanks to him, in Avignon, priests began to give communion with Cahors during services.

Thanks to Pope John XXII, priests began to administer Holy Communion during services.

When in Russia during the time of Peter I the question arose of what wine to use for the needs of the post-reform church, the choice fell on kahors. And not at all because of its healing properties (although they claim that the king himself treated stomach ulcers with it) and not because it was recognized as Eucharistic in Avignon, but for purely practical reasons. Saturated kaors corresponded better than others Orthodox tradition add to wine transmuted into the Blood of Christ hot water(“warmth”, “zeon”). In order for a highly diluted wine to retain its color, it had to be very extractive, and Kaor met this requirement perfectly. No wonder the British, who imported Cahors since the 13th century, called it black wine.

Wine acquires such properties thanks to manufacturing technology. Malbec grapes (aka Auxerrois) were crushed, and the wort with pulp was kept for 24 hours at a temperature of 75-80 °C. Apparently, the raw materials were heated to increase the alcohol content and density of the future wine. Such drinks were well stored, which made it possible to transport them over long distances and contributed to their distribution.

Economic reasons probably also played an important role in Peter I’s choice: wines from the southwest of France in general and Cahors in particular were much cheaper than many others, such as Bordeaux. Indeed, during this period, the glory of Kahors began to fade. Using your geographical location and royal privileges, Bordeaux dictated its terms to other regions. Before offering wines for sale, Cahors producers had to wait until the entire Bordeaux harvest had been sold. By this time, the wine market was already saturated and prices for kahors could not be high by definition. Situated near Bordeaux, Cahors was constantly in the shadow of its brilliant neighbor. Even Turgot's decree, which in 1776 abolished the exclusive rights for Bordeaux, could not put an end to the unenviable situation in which the wine-growing southwest found itself. It was still perceived as “the backwaters of Bordeaux.” And in the future, Kahors faced severe trials. In 1875, phylloxera struck the vineyards of the region, and, despite the truly heroic efforts of winegrowers, winemaking had to be forgotten for a while.

On the initiative of Peter I, Cahors began to be used for the needs of the post-reform church

For this reason, the Russian Orthodox Church was forced to urgently look for a replacement for the kaoru. The role of “understudy” was played by a sweet, rich and viscous wine from Valencia, from the city of Benicarlo. But in Russia the need for our own wine has long been overdue. The country's population was growing, and the number of parishioners was growing, too, and imports no longer covered all the needs of the Russian Orthodox Church (by the beginning of the 19th century, it needed about 3 million liters of wine). In addition, transporting the drink from Spain was very expensive! And there was an opportunity to make wine in Russia - Lev Sergeevich Golitsyn had already laid the foundation for the production of domestic wines in Crimea and the Caucasus.

In February 1902, at the First Russian Congress of Winegrowers and Winemakers, chaired by Prince Golitsyn, representatives of the clergy set the task for Russian craftsmen to create their own church wine. The congress determined two types of wine for the needs of the church: sweet red and dry red. The resolution of the congress stated that in both cases wine should be made only from grapes, to increase the strength, use only pure rectified grape alcohol, and to increase sugar content, use exclusively condensed grape juice. The addition of herbal extracts, sugar and starch-treacle alcohol was completely excluded.

The best oenological minds of Russia worked on the technology for making Cahors: L. S. Golitsyn, Professor M. A. Khovrenko, Professor M. F. Shcherbakov, winemakers from the Crimea, from the Magarach and Massandra farms, S. F. Okhremenko, I. A. Biyanki, A. V. Keller. Thanks to their inspired work, today there are several technologies for making Cahors. Two of them are the most widespread.

The first was developed by Dolganov and Dubinin at the end of the 19th century, and then improved in the 30s of the 20th century and resembles the Cahors one. Using this technology, crushed Saperavi grapes are heated to 55˚C and then cooled. After cooling, the wort ferments, grape alcohol and condensed grape syrup are added to it. The best samples These Cahors are aged in barrels. Using this technology, in the Crimean Massandra, since 1933, they have been producing “Kagor Yuzhnoberezhny” - a powerful wine with tones of chocolate, cream and dried fruits in the bouquet.

According to another technology, the berries are dried on the vine. Then the harvested grapes are pressed, fermented, alcohol is added, heated and kept at high temperature. This is how Cahors is produced in Moldova, Uzbekistan, and Azerbaijan.

But let's return to Cahors. In 1971, an important event occurred in the winemaking history of Cahors: it received appellation status (appellation of origin). From now on, the name “Kahor” can only be given to wine from the region of the same name, produced using a technology clearly established by law, which means that its value and uniqueness are recognized.

Nowadays, Cahors is a rich, dry wine. It is made without preheating. Unfortunately, after the double destruction of the vineyards (at the end of the 19th century, phylloxera “tried”, and in 1956, record frosts) failed to restore the former greatness of Malbec - the wines from the hybrid vine turned out to be a pale copy of those that once glorified Cahors. Therefore, Tanna and Merlot are now added to the Malbec blend.

Modern Cahors in its youth seduces with its explosive fruitiness, enveloping tannins, and perfect balance. Its bouquet is dominated by aromas of black berries (mulberries and blueberries). It's great with foie gras and meat sauce. With aging, the bouquet of kahors can develop tones of cherry and plum, as well as nutty, cinnamon, balsamic notes, hints of freshly ground coffee and licorice. The 15-year-old Kahors amaze the imagination with their nobility and wealth. French sommeliers recommend serving this wine with truffles, red meat, game cooked in mushroom sauce, as well as stewed pigeon, pheasant and cheeses.

Unfortunately, on Russian market Kaor are not easy to find, although their position in the world is gradually strengthening and experts are beginning to appreciate them. Thus, Château Lagrezette 2001 in 2005 was included in one of the most prestigious wine ratings Top 100 from Wine Spectator. Among the best manufacturers Let's call it Chateau de Cayrou-Jouffreau, Clos la Coutale, Clos de Triguedina, Domaine Haut-Monplaisir.

Irina Kamshilina

Cooking for someone is much more pleasant than for yourself))

Content

One of the popular alcoholic drinks is Cahors, which for most residents of the former Soviet Union means your local, domestic wine. In reality, the name of this drink comes from the French provincial town of Cahors, which is located in the southwest of the country. This type of wine is popular not only for its taste, but also for a number of positive properties for the body.

Types and varieties of wine

Cahors means two absolutely different types guilt. If you are a gourmet of this alcoholic drink, then you should definitely be able to distinguish between its varieties:

• Cahors or, more correctly, Cahors - in the West, this is a dry red wine of French origin, which is produced in the vicinity of Cahors in the Lo River valley. This variety consists of at least 70% Malbec grapes, and the remaining 30% comes from Tannat and Merlot varieties. Vineyards grow on terraces along the banks of the Lo River, as well as on the surrounding hills. Cahors is dark in color, which is why it was previously called “black wine.” The foreign variety still graces the tables of the best restaurants in the world.
• What is Cahors in Russia? In the post-Soviet space, Cahors refers to a fortified dessert wine of a dark red color, which is produced in any country using the method of heat treatment. For this purpose, Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are used. During cooking, the wort and pulp are heated to a temperature of 65-80 degrees, after which the wort is fermented, and finished products aged for at least 2-3 years. This type of drink is produced in Crimea, Krasnodar Territory, Uzbekistan, Azerbaijan, and Moldova. It contains 16% sugar, 16% alcohol.

History of the origin of the Cahors

On the territory of today's Quercy region, where the city of Cahors is located, wine production was carried out back in the days Ancient Rome. For all the centuries that winemaking has existed in this region, Cahors has had a large number of trials: he knew both ups and downs. At one time, this region supplied products to the royal court, but there were periods when it was completely forgotten.

Nature was not particularly kind to Kaoru either, because... Twice in history it completely destroyed vineyards: at the end of the 19th century, the vines died due to the invasion of phylloxera, and in the middle of the last century - from unprecedented frosts. In the Middle Ages, Cahors competed with Bordeaux wines, incl. and abroad: “black wine” was supplied to England along with Claret. The British, who actively imported it for many centuries, even included this type of wine in the diet of officers of the Royal Navy.

It is believed that among the fans of this wine were King Francis I (1494-1547), Pope John XII (1244-1334). Due to the fact that in February 1956 the region where the town of Cahors is located was hit by severe frosts, the Malbec grape variety became even more dominant in it. Currently, in Cahors, vineyards occupy about 4.2 thousand hectares of land - the planting density is at least 4,000 vines per hectare.

The appearance of wine in Russia

Cahors wine in Russia is traditionally used in the sacrament of the Eucharist, i.e. Holy Communion. When Russia did not yet produce its own wine, these alcoholic products were imported, incl. and for religious purposes, from Italy, Greece. Subsequently, the Holy Synod recognized the Cahors in 1733 the only wine, which can be used for church needs.

According to one version, Peter I, who suffered from a stomach disease, began to drink kahors at the insistence of doctors. There is an opinion that the high opinion of the Russian emperor about this drink influenced the decision of the clergy to import this variety for church needs in the 18th century. Another reason why churches in Russia began to use this type of drink for services: the wine was diluted with water (and today this procedure is carried out), but even after that the drink retained its rich taste, aroma, color - it was so thick and extractive.

There are no official requirements for Russian church wine to be sweet - dry varieties were used in Orthodox churches along with desserts. In the 18th century, Russian priests began to order cahors from France, but why, by agreement, they asked to make it sweet is still not known for certain. At the same time, traditional Cahors remains, like several centuries ago, dry drinks - according to French standards, only 2 grams of sugar per liter are allowed in them.

The development of domestic production of these alcoholic products in Russia began around the end of the 19th century, especially since transportation is expensive. The initiator was the Moscow industrialist P.I. Gubonin, who planted extensive vineyards on his estate in Gurzuf. He was supported by other enthusiasts of domestic winemaking, among whom was even Prince L.S. Golitsyn. At that time, a special technology for wine production was developed. Thanks to this, such sweet fortified varieties as “Sobornoe”, “Easter”, “Yuzhnoberezhny”, etc. appeared.

What are Cahorses made from?

The drink belongs to the category of dessert red varieties, which are distinguished by their dark ruby ​​color, softness and subtle cocoa-chocolate tones in their bouquet and taste. It is produced in many wine-growing regions of the former USSR states. The main feature of the preparation of this wine is heat treatment. Grapes, which are used as raw materials for the drink, begin to be harvested when the sugar content in them reaches 220 g/dm3 (22%). In terms of the grape variety used, domestic and French drinks have nothing in common.

In France

A foreign version of the drink, which is a dry French wine, is made mainly from Malbec grapes. A smaller share is formed by Tannat and Merlot varieties. The vineyards of this region are located in the Lot Valley, on a limestone plateau. Due to the climatic conditions of Cahors, the juice from the berries is especially concentrated. In 1971, local vineyards were able to obtain the status (classification) AOP (Appellation d'Origine Protegee) - wine with a protected geographical indication. However, pink and white wines from Cahors are not called Cahors.

Church wine

The drink, which has become widespread in Russia, is a fortified wine with pronounced taste properties and bright color. To produce the church drink, grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi, Morastil and some others are used - and Malbec should not be in the composition. The choice is based on the degree of sugar content, which should be around 22-25%. Domestic products are characterized by a relatively high content of alcohol (11-16.5%), sugar (160-193 g/l).

Production technology

To prepare red dessert wine, grape varieties are used (Saperavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kakhet, Matrasa, Merlot), which, at full physiological maturity, can accumulate at least 450 mg/dm3 of technological reserve anthocyanins. For processing, grapes are used whose sugar content is 22-25% or more. Crushing of raw materials is carried out in a rigid mechanical mode with the obligatory separation of the ridges - often using centrifugal crushers.

The pulp obtained by crushing is processed in one of several ways, differing from each other in type and depth of influence. The purpose of processing is to extract maximum quantity extractives and coloring substances from solid elements of berries. The following methods are widely used by winemakers:

• The pulp is sulfated, poured into units like syrup boilers, after which it is thoroughly mixed and heated to boiling at 100-110°C. Next, the resulting consistency is boiled for 5-10 minutes and stirred vigorously. Then the pulp is cooled and separation of press fractions and gravity wort is carried out. In some cases, the pulp can be alcoholized or fermented and then alcoholized.
• The pulp is sulfated in accordance with the calculation of 100-150 mg/dm3, after which it is heated to 55-60°C with repeated stirring. Then it is kept for 1.5-2 hours, remembering to stir to avoid local overheating, and left in the “self-cooling” mode to a temperature of 25°C. The gravity-fed wort is selected, and the drained pulp is pressed. With this method, gravity wort is combined with the first press fraction and subjected to fermentation with further alcoholization to 16-17% vol. This method is used mostly for preparing ordinary Cahors.
• Grapes for the preparation of alcoholic products are divided into two streams. The first consists of highly colored varieties of berries, including low-value ones (for example, Golubok), the pulp of which is subjected to heat treatment according to one of the known regimes. As for the second stream of berries, it includes high-quality red varieties, processed according to a scheme that involves fermenting the pulp, alcoholizing it and infusing it. Next, the wine materials are mixed with each other in a 1:1 ratio and subjected to the usual processing method. The described technology is more consistent with the requirements for the production of church wine.

Taste characteristics and properties of dessert wine

Cahors drinks are very tasty, but they need to be tasted correctly - try chewing them, as it were, to feel the presence on the palate. They were once considered tough, but today they attract many people. This drink differs from other wines of Southwestern France in its freshness and some vigor. Young wines have a rich color, which is sometimes almost black. The complex and rich aroma of the products develops over time.

The main color of wine is garnet, ruby ​​red, scarlet. During aging, these products begin to acquire brick and onion tones. The thick and dark red product has a tart taste and many notes, for example, almonds, prunes, chocolate. More information about flavor tones:

• Cherry. Sometimes combined with some other berry flavors, but can develop into a creamy flavor over time.
• Liquorice. More than just the aroma, this bittersweet taste in the mouth is somewhat reminiscent of licorice sticks.
• Violet. Considered a sign of healthy grapes and good terroir. Often confused with black currant, because... very close to her.
• Menthol. A fresh note that adds lightness to the palette. If it is felt immediately, then over time this note can introduce eucalyptus or anise into the taste.
• Truffle. It is considered a sign of products that are at the peak of taste after 10 or more years of aging. The aroma is often associated with notes of roots and mushrooms.

Chemical composition

The sweet red drink contains not only vitamins (B, PP) and organic acids, but also tannins, bioflavonoids, amino acids, rubidium, iodine, manganese, phosphorus, zinc, and sodium. Resveratrol, also included in this alcohol, has the property of destroying bacteria and fungi and protecting against UV radiation. In addition, this substance has an antitumor effect. It comes into the composition of the drink from seeds and peel. The monks of France of the Middle Ages, although they did not know about the existence of such a substance, but beneficial features The local Cahors were well known to them.

The composition also contains calcium, potassium, magnesium, which are macroelements, i.e. the main “building materials” of the body. Despite all expectations, this product does not have much iron, but this does not reduce its benefits for the blood. The composition concentrates natural sugars, i.e. glucose and fructose, without which recovery after a long illness will be incomplete and not as effective as we would like.

What are the benefits of Cahors?

Wine is a source of antioxidants that protect cells and prevent age-related changes brain This drink promotes longevity, like any other product containing polyphenolic compounds. Wine antioxidants help improve blood circulation, have a tonic effect and prevent the appearance of wrinkles. Other advantages of Cahors:

• Improves muscle performance and cardiovascular system. Tannins, which give produce their red color, and procyanidins reduce the risk of stroke and heart disease. Resveratrol helps dissolve blood thickeners, which prevents ischemia. Moderate consumption of this red wine can reduce the risk of stroke by up to 50%.
• The acids contained in red grapes can inhibit the growth of fat cells (which is important for obesity), due to which some weight loss is observed.
• Quercetin can kill some types of cancer cells, for example, with a malignant tumor or damage to the colon. Antioxidants in grapes may protect smokers from lung cancer. Drinking red wine can also be recommended for the prevention of prostate cancer.
• Able to stop the accelerated growth of blood vessels in the organs of vision and prevent their degeneration.
• Helps reduce the risk of depression because... There is an activation of the body's response to stress.
• It can remove radionuclides, therefore it is widely used in the treatment of people who have suffered from radiation exposure.
• Helps with anemia, vitamin deficiency (can even cure).
• May improve results of drug treatment for acne.
• When consumed together with fish, the level of beneficial Omega-3 fatty acids in the body increases.
• Strengthens gums.
• It has antiviral properties, thereby reducing the risk of disease during epidemics.
• Helps improve digestion, accelerate metabolic processes, and heal gastric ulcers.
• Can alleviate the condition of existing joint diseases.
• Good for the restoration of bone tissue and liver cells.
• Has a positive effect on Alzheimer's disease.
• Helps with hypotension. Consuming a certain amount of the product in the morning improves blood pressure readings and helps you forget about dizziness, drowsiness, and weakness.
• Hot wine treats bronchitis, acute respiratory infections, and pneumonia.

A high-quality drink, due to its healing properties, slows down aging. The value of the drink is also that it serves as a prevention of thrombophlebitis, atherosclerosis, thrombosis and some other vascular diseases. It is also indicated for people suffering from excessive cholesterol levels in the blood. Scientists from France observed cancer patients for 10 years, trying to find out the effect of wine on their body. The results were amazing, because... Mortality among people suffering from cancer, with daily consumption of 300-400 g of this product, reduced the mortality rate by 30%.

Cahors to increase hemoglobin

Red wines, which include relatively cheap products, are considered an effective product for increasing hemoglobin. In medicine, this alcohol is used for treatment not in glasses, but in certain dosages. Doctors advise consuming approximately 3-4 tablespoons - daily norm. There is no need to drink a red drink at night, otherwise it will negatively affect your health, because... may provoke headache. To increase hemoglobin, you can drink 50 g of alcohol in the morning on an empty stomach or before sitting down to lunch, then eat it with nuts (4-5 pieces) and an apple (1 or 1/2).

To strengthen the immune system

Red wine is a powerful immune booster that enriches the body essential microelements, vitamins. For this purpose in folk medicine This recipe is used:

1. You need to mix freshly prepared beet juice, carrots, garlic, black radish and lemon in equal quantities.
2. Next, you will need to pour 250 ml of liquid honey and Cahors into the resulting mixture.
3. Ready composition pour into a glass container and put in the refrigerator.
4. You need to drink a kind of tincture daily, 25 g 3 times for 27-29 days.
5. It is recommended to carry out 3 courses of therapy with 35-day breaks.

Prevention of atherosclerosis

As a therapy and prevention of atherosclerosis, finely chop 1 kg walnuts, then pour a bottle of red wine along with the shell. Keep the mixture for 23 days in a dark, dry place. Drink a few sips in the morning until you finish medicinal composition. Nuts can be replaced with a large head of garlic, previously chopped. This method is recommended for people aged 38 years and older.

To remove radionuclides and protect the body from free radicals

The sweet red alcoholic drink helps remove radionuclides from the body due to such a rare trace element as rubidium. Organic compounds, belonging to the class of flavonoids, and contained in this product, are able to neutralize free radicals. Thanks to this, the aging process of the body begins to slow down.

Use in folk medicine

Cahors has long been considered among the people as the elixir of youth, because... When consumed correctly, it has a beneficial effect on health. It is also useful for people suffering from excess weight, because... speeds up metabolism. Red wine, along with several other ingredients, is used for nervous and physical exhaustion, loss of strength, colds, pneumonia and other health problems.

With honey and radish for anemia

To improve blood formation and cure anemia (i.e. anemia) of any severity, you can resort to a mixture of Cahors with raisins, chocolate, and radish. Cooking steps:

1. Grind half a kilogram of root vegetables and dried fruits with a meat grinder.
2. add 520 ml of liquid honey - it should be warm.
3. Add the resulting mixture with grated dark chocolate, then dilute with a bottle of wine.
4. Infuse the remedy in a dark place for at least 9 days. Take 25 g 3 times a day before meals.

Rub with wine and hot pepper for joints

An infusion of a drink based on hot pepper has become widely used among folk remedies for diseases of small and large joints. The recipe is simple:

1. Add 3 medium-sized pods to a bottle of wine, after crushing them.
2. Infuse the resulting mixture for 8 days.
3. After the expiration date, strain through a sieve and use as a rub on the affected parts of the body.

With blueberries to improve digestion

Compositions based on red wine also help solve some problems associated with the gastrointestinal tract. To improve digestion, normalize stool and body weight, prepare the following remedy:

1. Take 30 g of dried blueberries, add 240 ml of water and cook for 18-20 minutes.
2. Next, add a glass of drink and bring the resulting solution to a boil.
3. Cool the composition and drink in the morning on an empty stomach. The treatment course lasts 3-6 days, after which you can repeat it after a few weeks.

How to drink Cahors correctly

Please note that Cahors is a dessert wine that is consumed with sweet dishes, but this does not mean that the drink cannot be drunk with poultry, meat, cheese, fruits and other dishes. It is best to use tulip-shaped wine glasses with a capacity of 240-260 mm for this. In this case, the drink should be served at room temperature around 17-20 degrees. In some cases, it is appropriate to serve red wine chilled to 12-15°C.

Cold alcohol is suitable for hot dishes, poultry, and meat. For diseases of the gastrointestinal tract and heartburn, it is recommended to warm up the Cahors a little. To do this, you can simply hold the glass of drink in your palms for 1-2 minutes. It is recommended to drink red wine in small sips and slowly to experience the whole bouquet.

Among cocktails, Cahors-Cobbler has gained some popularity. The volume of one serving without fruit does not exceed 100 ml, the main thing is to correctly calculate the ingredients. To prepare you will need:

• Cahors – 50 ml;
• orange juice – 25 ml;
• lemon juice – 10 ml;
• liqueur “Yuzhny” – 15 ml;
• fruits, berries – 50 g.

To prepare the cocktail, use Collins glasses. Pre-fill 2/3 full with crushed ice:

1. Mix the contents of the container thoroughly with a spoon and garnish with fruit.
2. For decoration, use lemon or orange zest and slices, strawberries, cherries, berries or fruits from canned compotes, fresh frozen berries.
3. Distribute the fruit evenly in the glass. Mix the contents with a spoon. If necessary, add ice to keep the glass full.
4. The cobbler cocktail is served with a teaspoon and a straw.

An inexpensive but tasty cocktail of red wine with fruit and champagne is the “Bells”. For this you will need 1 bottle of Cahors, 1/2 bottle of champagne, 1-2 pcs. candied apples:

1. Put in large capacity candied apples.
2. Pour the chilled alcohol on top and then stir.
3. Top with cold champagne to the brim.
4. Leave to brew for 15 minutes in a cool place.
5. Pour the cocktail into glasses. You can add apples from the container, decorate the glasses with an apple slice or an orange slice.

Harm and contraindications

The question often arises, how many degrees are there in Cahors? Genuine wine from Cahors contains 16% alcohol and sugar. Both parameters may vary slightly depending on the country of production and age, but in any case, large doses of alcohol (any kind) greatly worsen the condition of most diseases. Drinking the drink is strictly prohibited for pregnant women and children. There are contraindications associated with allergies to red grapes. Frequent use is associated with some risks:

What is Cahors - what grape varieties are they made from, the taste of dessert wine and the best producers