How to spray trees against caterpillars in spring. Treatment of garden trees in spring

One of the main requirements for caring for fruit trees is seasonal processing. This treatment is done by any summer resident who wants to grow beautiful garden with a significant number of yields. Spraying trees in the spring with the necessary preparations will protect the garden from the scourge of pests and pathogenic microorganisms.

The main objective of such treatment is to protect against the appearance of butterflies, aphids, caterpillars and all kinds of beetles, and also to minimize the possibility of infectious, viral and fungal diseases.

• For example, aphids cause significant damage to fruit trees such as pear, plum, apple, apricot and cherry plum. This pest infects the bark of a tree, forming nodules on its surface, which crack over time, turning into sores. Aphids infect tree leaves, which first curl and then dry out. The affected areas stop growing over time and dry out.
• The main enemy of plums, cherries and cherries is Chafer, more precisely, its larvae, which live in the ground for three years. This pest can destroy entire gardens of young trees, destroying them root system. The adult beetles fly in May, and they also destroy young leaves and fruit ovaries. Spraying trees in the spring makes their leaves unattractive to beetles.
• Flower beetles are found everywhere. With the warmth, weevils crawl out of the soil where they overwintered and head towards the opening flowers, where they dine on the stamens and pistils. Measures to combat them are to dig up tree trunk circles in late autumn (or cover them with a thick layer of hay, sawdust, straw, through which the beetles will not be able to get out).
• Sawflies and moths. These terrible insects can make the entire crop of plums, peaches, apples, pears, and nectarines simply inedible. Methods of control - only one spray.

Chemical treatment of the ground part fruit trees allows you to preserve not only foliage, but also ripe fruits, which means you get a tasty and healthy harvest.

Orchard irrigation chemicals must be carried out on time. Untimely and incorrect treatment of plants will not give any effect.

When and how many times to spray?

Spraying of fruit trees is done more than once, starting from early spring and ending in late autumn. Gardeners, taking into account their enormous experience, have developed a special schedule for irrigating the orchard. It describes in detail what and when to irrigate trees throughout the season.

The first spraying of fruit trees against pests is done in early spring. Many novice gardeners wonder under what weather conditions this procedure can be carried out. So, experts advise doing the first spraying immediately after the snow melts, at a temperature of about 5-6 degrees Celsius.

Treatment of fruit trees is usually carried out in the second half of March. Just at this time, the process of bud enlargement begins in plants. During spraying, as well as during the process of pruning trees, the gardener must pay special attention to cracks that may contain harmful insects. Before spraying trees, they need to be prepared for this. The trees are carefully cleaned with a brush, then a freshly prepared solution is applied. The solution is used on the day it is prepared, otherwise it will become useless. It will not remove pests, but the trees may be seriously burned.

Time	Works	Drug (Optional)
Early spring	Preventive spraying against pests overwintering on trees	Diesel fuel (optional)
Before the buds open	Spraying against scab, moniliosis, clusterisporosis, coccomycosis and a number of other fungal diseases. Treatment with insecticides against emerging pests.	Bordeaux mixture, Urea. Karbafos, And broad spectrum insecticides
During flowering	Processing to increase immunity to fungal diseases. Searching against bream and weevils	Bordeaux liquid, Anabasine, DDT Powder, Carbaphos.
After flowering	Prevention from putrefactive diseases. Pest Control	Broad-spectrum combination mixtures

Treatment of the garden in March is aimed at combating insects that infect trees by getting out of the soil.

The next spraying is carried out in April. The purpose of this spraying is to protect flower buds on trees from various fungal diseases and the stag beetle.

May processing is carried out in order to prevent the appearance of harmful insects and diseases. This procedure is carried out after the trees bloom.

The processing of the garden does not end there; with the onset of autumn, additional spraying follows. This is a kind of preparation of fruit trees for winter. As soon as the trees lose their leaves, in October-November, it is time to start processing them. In this case, it is recommended to use chemicals. If, however, spraying is carried out without their use, then the first autumn treatment can be carried out immediately after harvesting - in September.

How to prepare trees for spraying?

Trees over 6 years old are cleaned of old bark and lichens with a brush. Growths and other accumulations on the trunk of trees do not in any way affect their general state. But it is worth noting that it is precisely in these places that pathogenic microorganisms most often like to gather. Immediately after cleaning, spraying is carried out.

The final processing of fruit plantings, as well as shrubs, is carried out after harvesting and falling leaves. The area is completely cleared of weeds and leaves. The latest spraying of the garden is carried out after the first frost.

What and from what diseases should I spray trees in the spring?

There are several effective preparations that gardeners use when treating fruit trees and shrubs. Today there are a lot of substances for spring and autumn processing orchards. The most popular means used by many gardeners over the years:

• Urea or urea.

It is impossible to give preference to any one of the above-mentioned remedies, because each of them is aimed at eliminating a specific disease or pest. One drug can only be used in the spring, the other only in the fall. Experienced gardeners advise stopping spraying fruit trees and shrubs with chemicals 3-4 weeks before harvest.

Culture	Pest	Time of processing
Grape	Mildu
Cherry and Cherry	Clusterosporiasis, Monoliosis, Bacterial cancer	3% solution until buds open,
Apricot	Clusterosporiasis, Monoliosis	3% solution until buds open, 1% solution - during the growing season
Potato	Late blight,	1% solution - during the growing season
Apple tree	Scab, Monoliosis, Bacterial cancer	3% solution until buds open, 1% solution - during the growing season
Tomatoes	Late blight, Black bacterial spot, Alternaria	1% solution - during the growing season
Onion	Downy mildew, Rust, Rot	1% solution - during the growing season
Cucumber	Downy mildew, Anthracnose, Ascochyta blight, Olive spot, Bacteriosis	1% solution - during the growing season
Peaches	Leaf curl, Bacterial canker	3% solution until buds open,

Garden treatment iron sulfate performed twice during the entire season. The first spraying is carried out during the period of foliage formation, and the second - when the trees are preparing for wintering. This drug has a double effect. It enriches shrubs and trees with iron, and is also an effective protection against all kinds of pests and diseases. The lack of iron in fruit trees is expressed in a trivial way - low yield and underdeveloped fruits. Spraying of fruit plantings with iron-based vitriol is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn, for preventive purposes, and also to exterminate lichen, moss, cytosporosis, black cancer and septosporosis.

Treatment of the garden with copper sulfate is carried out according to the same scheme as with the previous preparation - twice a season. The first treatment is carried out in early spring, even before the appearance of young buds. This substance must be handled with care, since copper sulfate, even the weakest concentration, can burn young foliage on trees. This is an excellent disinfectant that heals wounds on the trunk of trees and shrubs. This fungicide is sprayed on trees such as pear, plum and apple trees, both in autumn and spring. Copper sulfate protects orchards from moniliosis, scab, cluster blight and curl.

For one young tree, up to 6 years old, apply 2 liters of freshly prepared solution. For adult specimens, use 10 liters of liquid. The garden is processed in the morning or evening, when there is no wind, at a temperature of 10 to 25 degrees. On hot days, it is advisable to avoid using this drug, as it is quite aggressive and can harm both animals and people. The solution is prepared in a place remote from water bodies.

No less effective drug carbamide (urea) is considered to be used against pests. The first care of orchards in early spring begins with spraying them with this particular preparation. This procedure is carried out immediately after flowering. The second spraying with this substance is carried out before wintering. Urea is intended to save the crop from the invasion of various pests. A properly made solution allows you to achieve the desired effect.

At the first spraying, urea of ​​increased concentration is used with the addition of a small dose copper sulfate. This remedy is effective not only against a variety of pests, but also allows you to slow down the growing season of some fruit trees by 2-3 weeks. This helps preserve the color on the trees during the last frost.

7 days after flowering, fruit plantings are sprayed with a weaker solution of urea: 50 g of the substance is diluted with a bucket of water. This protects the trees from leaf rollers, aphids, caterpillars, copperheads and flower beetles.

The second treatment is carried out in the fall, when half of the trees are bare of leaves. In this case, a solution of increased concentration is used. Spraying is also carried out after the leaves have completely fallen. In this case, spraying is performed with a urea solution with an 8-10% concentration. Not only trees, but also the soil around them are subject to this treatment. This substance has a dual effect – it disinfects plantings and also nourishes the soil. Here it is extremely important to choose the right concentration so as not to harm the trees or reduce their resistance to cold.

Just like other drugs, it is used twice - in autumn and spring. This petroleum product must be used with extreme caution, as it can cause burns to trees and shrubs, as a result of which they die. Therefore, spraying with diesel fuel is carried out strictly before the formation of buds and leaves on the trees in the spring. The second spraying is carried out only after the trees have completely lost their leaves.

This substance is strictly prohibited for use in pure form. It is diluted with water or other liquid, thereby reducing the concentration and destructive effect. A diluted solution of diesel fuel is extremely effective in combating rot.

It is used in early spring and late autumn. The finished solution consists of 200 g of the substance, diluted with 1 bucket of water. Treatment with this drug destroys many pests that have remained on the trunk and branches since the fall. This can be false scale insects, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects, leaf rollers and moths, etc. Preparation 30B is often used to control insects in the summer. This substance is considered harmless. When applied, it forms a thin film on the tree cover, which prevents the supply of oxygen and moisture to pests at the stage of eggs and larvae. Such conditions ultimately lead to the death of insects.

Despite the safety this drug, experienced gardeners it is used no more than once every three years.

Today, two types of devices for spraying orchards are produced - manual or mechanical. This necessary thing for correct and effective implementation procedures. It improves spray quality and protects the gardener from contact with the chemical. Each device is equipped with a pump. To work with drugs in powder form, there are devices with air supply.

Mechanical devices are characterized by convenience and high cost. The pumping principle for manual and mechanical devices is also different. Each model has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, here you should proceed from the needs and capabilities when purchasing this item.

We wish you success and good harvests!

Preface

Spring has finally arrived and gardeners are rushing to their summer cottages. Now they have a lot of work to do, including early spring spraying garden But before that there is one more thing to do.

Pre-spring work in the garden

Now is the time to shake the snow off the trees. It is wet, heavy and may well break branches. Nature wakes up after winter. Therefore, in early spring it is necessary to carry out a certain set of measures on the site.

Carefully inspect the branches of fruit trees to see if there are any pests that have overwintered on them. Now is the time to think about trimming broken and dead branches, so bring along. You can also shape the crown of trees.

But the main work still lies in spraying the trees. As soon as the average air temperature reaches + 5°C, and the buds have not yet had time to bloom, it is necessary to fight diseases and feed the trees.

Video: Clearing snow from fruit trees

Protecting trees from spring burns and pest control

In early spring the weather is quite unstable. It can be high during the day and drop sharply at night. Under these conditions, the bark on the trees warms up unevenly. Let’s say that on a warm March day the temperature of the trunk in the sun will be 12 degrees higher than on the shaded side. Lime whitewashing of the trunk helps to get rid of this difference.

In this case, the readings will differ only within 3 or 5 degrees. Overheating of the bark followed by freezing can cause early spring burns. And they will lead to the death of the tree, especially if it is a young seedling. It is necessary to restore the whitewash if it was damaged during the winter period.

When pruning in early spring garden trees, you need to get rid of damaged branches. They should not be left under a tree, because they are probably infected with: cytosporosis, scale insects, bark beetle larvae, black cancer or other pests and diseases.

At the same time as this work, it is necessary to treat existing wounds on the trunks and branches. The damage is cleaned, smoothed with a knife until living tissue appears, then disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, in a ratio of 10 g per 1 liter of water, and the area is thoroughly coated with garden pitch.
How to spray trees in early spring

Modern industry offers gardeners a variety of various means for spraying trees at the very beginning of spring.

• For these purposes the following is used:
• copper sulfate;
• mineral oil emulsion;
• Bordeaux mixture;
• emulsion “Preparation-30”;

nitrophen and others.

The cheapest drug is copper sulfate. But don’t look at its low cost, it is quite effective, so most gardeners prefer it. It is used against scab, fruit rot, leaf curl, black cancer, brown leaf spot and other diseases. Mineral-oil emulsions are liquid mixtures mineral oil

• with water and emulsifier. The emulsifier usually contains:
• soap;
• glue or kaolin;

iron or copper sulfate.

Emulsions fight pests such as aphids, scale insects, and help destroy the eggs of codling moths, copperheads and other insects. They should be used in early spring, before the buds open. In summer, at temperatures above 35℃, the emulsion can cause severe burns on the tree. Bordeaux mixture is an opaque, sky-blue solution. Gardeners have been using this liquid for more than a hundred years in the fight against garden pests

. It is recommended to use it until the buds open. The mixture destroys scab and fungal diseases of trees or shrubs. It is also used as a disinfectant for wounds of fruit trees. It is not recommended to store it; it must be used immediately after preparation. Emulsion “Preparation-30” is an oil-oil emulsion of white or light gray color. It is packaged in 2-liter jars and has a shelf life of 2 years. In the spring, the emulsion can be used to treat all fruit and berry crops against wintering herds of scale insects, spider mites, leaf rollers, copperheads, moths and other pests. And in the summer, spray the trees and ornamental shrubs

from stray first and second generation scale insects Nitrophen is a drug against the wintering stages of pests and diseases. This pasta Brown , packaged in tin or or polymer bottles. The shelf life of nitrophen is 2 years. It works well as a disinfectant for wounds on fruit trees.

Video: Spraying trees and shrubs in early spring

Treating trees with copper sulfate

Before spraying, you must first clean the trunk of lichens with a brush. When processing trees you can use hand pump, they are sold in special garden stores. But it is advisable to have an automated sprayer. It is much more convenient and easier to work with. For those gardeners who already have mature trees, you need to have one that can be extended different ways. Most likely, you will have to tie it to a stick so that you can reach even the very top branches or use special telescopic rods.

It's worth worrying about own safety. Robe, gloves, hat and glasses. These items will protect you from getting the solution on bare areas of your body. A respirator will not allow solution vapors to enter the upper respiratory tract.

Before processing begins, the solution must be stirred. It's done in the following way: 100 g of copper sulfate is diluted in a bucket of water. IN cold water vitriol dissolves less well. Therefore, you can dilute it at home hot water, say, in a three-liter jar, and then pour the contents into a bucket.

The solution must be poured into the sprayer through a funnel and several layers of gauze. Content filtering is mandatory. This is done to prevent the sprayer nozzle and hose from becoming clogged with undissolved particles. Now you should pump air into the balloon, hang it on your shoulder and go ahead.

This article describes the process of treating trees with copper sulfate. But you can use any products that you like best or have already purchased. Each package contains detailed instructions on how to use it.

How to spray trees correctly

Wood processing must be carried out carefully from all sides. The jet must be directed from the edge to its central part. It is best to do this one by one with each large branch. Only in this case is it possible to achieve maximum effect.

Don't forget to spray the soil around the tree. If there are still last year's leaves on it, they will rot much faster. Also, using the solution, spores of harmful fungi or the pests themselves will be destroyed. The remaining solution can be used on nearby shrubs, grapes or other plants.

After you have treated the trees, you need to carefully rinse the device with water. To do this, pour into the sprayer clean water and send her away. In this case, the nozzles and hoses will not become clogged with remaining dried solution particles. Change your clothes and be sure to wash your hands and face with soap.

Video: Spraying trees in spring

What is needed for spraying trees and shrubs

Trees can also be treated with a combination of products in early spring. They will help you deal with several types of pests at once, which will give you the opportunity to avoid several cycles of spraying trees and at the same time fertilize the plant. An example is urea. You can learn about this from our other materials.

In order for tree spraying work to be carried out efficiently and have good efficiency, it is necessary to have everything necessary tools and devices.

If someone believes that by planting an apple tree at the dacha, he is guaranteed to provide for himself a bountiful harvest apples for the rest of your life, you may be very disappointed.

Planting a tree (like the birth of a son) is only the first small step on the long path that you have to travel before the first results of your labors make themselves felt. A tree, like a child, must be taken care of constantly, otherwise diseases and pests can cause irreparable harm to your child.

Why do you need to spray trees and shrubs in spring?

The beginning of the season, that is, the period when garden trees and shrubs, waking up after winter cold, begin to accumulate strength to form a fruit mass - this is exactly the time when you need to take maximum care of their protection. That is why Treating trees in the spring against pests and diseases is an important stage in gardening agricultural technology.

In fact, spring is a treacherous period. On the one hand, the tree needs time to recover after a long stay in extreme conditions of severe frost, on the other hand, various pests, having also woken up from hibernation, begin to actively feed, happily attacking the barely blooming leaves and flowers. It is not surprising that tree care in the spring includes mandatory pest control, because if you do not intervene in the process, you may not get a harvest. Of course, it will not be possible to destroy all harmful insects in the garden, although such a task is not set. It is much more important to ward off uninvited guests from the garden, make your trees and shrubs as unattractive as possible for such pests, both from the point of view of nutrition and from the point of view of “living”.

Another important argument in favor of spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases is that this period excludes the direct impact of pesticides on the ovaries and fruits (simply because they have not yet formed), therefore, fighting garden pests in the spring minimizes the risk of subsequent poisoning with such drugs as a result of eating processed fruits and berries.

Thus, the main task of spraying the garden in the spring is to prevent pests and diseases that will lie in wait for your plot throughout the season, including when the use of fungicides and insecticides will negatively affect the ecological purity of the crop.

Of course, ideally, we all want to boast of fruits and berries grown “without chemicals.” However, it is very important to maintain a healthy balance and sense of proportion. Breeders all over the world are struggling to create plant varieties that are resistant to certain diseases, but it has still not been possible to develop a species that is completely immune to harmful external influences, and this is hardly possible at all, since nature itself has conceived a scheme in which “everyone eats everyone.” " Therefore, we should expect that the fruits of a tree that are not affected by any pest will turn out to be inedible for humans, because you and I are also part of the animal world.

In addition, even if the manufacturer assures you that a given particular variety (for example, apple trees) is absolutely not affected by scab, you should treat such statements with a healthy dose of skepticism. And this does not mean that you are being deceived. The fact is that the development of certain diseases, as well as the spread of various pests, largely depends on specific external conditions, which are constantly changing. In addition, insects and vectors infectious diseases have the ability to mutate and adapt to new realities. It is not without reason that they say that you cannot use the same fungicide in the garden - the preparations must be constantly changed to ensure the best result.

The main enemies of fruit trees, against which spring spraying is directed, are caterpillars, butterflies, various beetles and aphids. So, if you do not spray the apple tree at the very beginning of the season, aphids begin to actively suck the juice from the greens and flowers, and also deform the tree bark, forming ugly growths on it, which then crack and turn into gaping wounds. As a result, the tree may stop developing and die. The same danger awaits pears, plums, apricots, cherry plums and other fruit trees.

The cockchafer loves to eat leaves and ovaries, and his favorite delicacy is plum tree. While the adult is rampaging on the surface, its numerous larvae infect the root system of trees, which is especially dangerous for young seedlings. Timely spraying can help rid the garden of such a scourge.

Caterpillars and butterflies also happily eat the greenery and fruits of apple, pear, plum and cherry trees, so protecting such trees in the spring will help preserve future harvest.

The above fully applies to the treatment of shrubs (black and red currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.), since it is in the spring that the main measures should be taken to protect all plants from pests and diseases.

How to spray trees against diseases and pests in spring

Currently, there are many options for treating fruit trees against pests in the spring. Conventionally, they can be divided into three groups:

• biological drugs;
• chemicals;
• “improvised” means, which are usually used by ardent opponents of the first two options, considering this method safer for health (and, of course, more economical).

Thus, the choice of a protective agent depends on the personal preferences of the gardener, but, in addition, on the condition of the garden (there are cases when the use of radical treatment methods is vital to protect the garden from imminent destruction).

Biological agents

Biological garden treatments are becoming increasingly popular as a direct alternative to chemicals.

Their effect on harmful insects and disease carriers is not artificially synthesized. poisonous substance, but living organisms (bacteria, bacterial viruses, antagonistic fungi and even insects). Also, as an alternative, it is not the living creature itself that is used, but the toxin it secretes (biotoxin).

Such biological agents can be “started” on the site yourself, creating conditions that attract beneficial insects. This role can be performed by, say, mustard, buckwheat, dill and other honey plants planted in the country. However for reliable protection garden, such preventive measures usually not enough, so scientists have developed numerous drugs based on the action of beneficial organisms. Let's look at some of them.

is an excellent antagonist of a number of pathogenic fungi (including scab pathogens, various types rot, late blight and other unpleasant diseases). The plant itself does not suffer any harm from the action of Trichoderma; on the contrary, this fungus secretes substances that make the plant more resistant to the corresponding diseases. Treatment with the drug can be carried out from the moment the buds open and continue throughout the season.

"Planriz" is a soil bacteria that protects the garden from powdery mildew, root and basal rot, brown rust, septoria (often affecting raspberries), as well as lepidopteran pests.

"Pentaphage" - a proven way to prevent disease fruit crops bacterial cancer, lesions of holey spotting of stone fruits. In addition, it is a good preventative against scab and powdery mildew.

"Phytodoctor" suppresses the development of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, in particular, protects fruit trees from late blight, bacterial cancer, root and fruit rot, mold, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt, etc.

provides protection for the garden from fungal and bacterial diseases such as scab, wilt, late blight, root rot, powdery mildew, brown rust and others.

"Mikosan" protects fruit trees from fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Its action is based on covering the plant organs protective film preventing the pathogen from infecting them. The drug strengthens the tree’s immunity and helps it cope with the disease on its own. This product should be used separately from any other drugs, at the rate of 0.1 kg of substance per 4-8 liters of water.

"Gaupsin" showed himself as effective remedy against aphids, codling moths, leaf rollers, cherry and plum flies. Among the diseases, the area of ​​influence of the drug is powdery mildew, late blight and others. The product also saturates the plant with the nitrogen it needs.

"Bitoxibacillin" also protects the garden well from gnawing and lepidopteran pests ( spider mite, cabbage moth, hawthorn, silkworm and others). Its action is based on disruption of the intestinal function of the insect, as a result of which the larva dies.

"Aktofit" destroys caterpillars, mites, whiteflies, aphids.

provides protection against various fungal diseases and, like gaupsin, releases nitrogen molecules from the air. Distinctive feature The drug is very fast, compared to other biological means of protection, action (the active substance reaches the root system of the tree in less than half an hour after spraying).

"Healthy Garden" - another means for protecting trees from aphids, codling moths, powdery mildew and other pests and diseases.

The drug "Fitoverm" can help get rid of mites and codling moths, as well as silkworm caterpillars, leaf rollers, cutworms, moths, cabbage moths, etc. - "Lepidocide".

Biological agents have a number of undoubted advantages: they do not accumulate in the soil, do not harm the plant, and their consumption is significantly lower than that of other drugs. But there are also some disadvantages. Basically, such formulations take much longer to achieve a beneficial effect, while the chemical poison acts much faster.

Important! The use of biological drugs can be started only when the average daily temperature is at least +10° C. At this time, pathogenic bacteria and pests, which are the food of the organisms presented in the biological product, awaken and begin to develop. Otherwise, such biological weapons are powerless, so the earliest treatment of the garden can only be carried out using chemicals.

Chemicals

Treating the garden with chemicals (pesticides) is considered the most effective way protection of trees and shrubs from diseases and pests.

Did you know? The word pesticide comes from two Latin words: pestis (to infect) and caedere (to kill). The concept of “pesticides” includes the following groups of poisons: herbicides - against weeds, insecticides - against harmful insects, fungicides - against pathogens of fungal diseases, zoocides - against warm-blooded animals (for example, rodents). Most often, pesticides, as their name suggests, kill a particular pest, but there are also sterilants that cause infertility, as well as growth inhibitors that suppress the development of insects.

Modern pesticides act very quickly and retain their effect for a long time, but, unlike biological products, they can be addictive to pests.

As stated above, treating plants in early spring does not pose a risk to human or domestic animal health, since most pesticides completely decompose a certain time after application.

Another advantage of chemicals is that they dissolve well in water and are generally sold in packages that are convenient for quick use.

Important! At the same time, unlike biological products, the correct dosage of pesticides plays a decisive role: exceeding the recommended dose can lead to damage to the plant (burn, decreased pollen viability, destruction of pistils) and cause harm to the environment, while a “shortfall” provokes the production of harmful organisms are immune to the corresponding poison.

When working with chemicals, it is only necessary to observe safety rules as much as possible, since the toxin can cause harm to humans and pets not only if ingested, but also through the skin and respiratory tract.

It is best to carry out spring treatment of trees and shrubs with special complex preparations, which are a mixture of a fungicide and an insecticide. In this case, the plant is simultaneously protected from both diseases and pests. A possible replacement for such a complex preparation is ordinary urea.

The first treatment of the garden in early spring is recommended to be carried out with a higher concentration of urea (urea), adding a little copper sulfate to the mixture. An additional advantage of this composition is its ability to briefly (for a week or two) slow down the awakening of the tree, and as a result, it is protected from unexpected frosts during flowering (this especially applies to plum trees).

After flowering, trees should be sprayed with a less concentrated solution of urea. This treatment will protect the garden from aphids, leaf rollers, apple flower beetles, and honey beetles.

An overdose of urea can lead to the formation of burns on the leaf plate, therefore, when diluting urea with water, you need to be extremely careful. Spring spraying is also popular. fruit plants

Copper sulfate has a detrimental effect on the pathogens of curly hair, moniliosis, coccomycosis and clasterosporosis, phyllosticosis, scab and other diseases. It is recommended to treat plums, pears and apple trees with the drug.

Important! Copper sulfate is very poisonous! Therefore, it is necessary to prevent the drug or its residues from entering water bodies or other water supplies, as this can lead to the death of fish and animals and create serious health problems for people.

Most often, copper sulfate is mixed in equal parts with lime. The resulting mixture is called Bordeaux mixture and protects the garden from most diseases and pests, while being relatively harmless.

These and other copper-containing drugs, such as (copper oxychloride), (copper oxychloride and oxadisil), etc. They protect trees and shrubs well from fungal diseases, but they should not be used more often than once a year. Therefore, if such spraying was carried out in the fall, you need to choose a different type of treatment in the spring.

Until the buds bloom on the trees, you can treat them with iron sulfate. In addition to protecting against pests, this drug has another function - it saturates plants with iron, which is necessary for their proper development, this is especially important for trees with iron-containing fruits, such as apple trees, pears and plums.

"Drug 30 V" When spraying in early spring, it is aimed at destroying pests that overwinter on the bark of fruit trees. First of all, these are leaf rollers, scale insects, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects and false scale insects, moths, copperheads, and fruit mites. The drug forms a film on the bark that kills the larvae “hiding” inside and destroys insect eggs. The disadvantage of the pesticide is its very long decay period, and therefore the manufacturer warns against using it more than once every three years.

Some summer residents treat their gardens with diesel fuel, but this petroleum product has a very destructive effect on the ecosystem. Therefore, if you do not work at a car depot, where “shoe polish is just piled up,” use less aggressive chemicals in the garden. But if you still decide to take a risk, then the drug, firstly, can be used very early (even before the kidneys swell), and secondly, its concentration should be minimal, and to enhance the effect it is better not just to dilute it with water, but also to mix it with other chemicals. There is one exception: diesel fuel can really help protect an apple or plum tree from rotting, for example, in the event of a break.

Folk remedies

For opponents of chemistry, we can recommend a number of folk remedies used for spring garden treatment. Here, however, it should be noted that many plants that are destructive to pests, which form the basis for spraying, cannot physically be obtained in early spring. In this case, sometimes you can use dried reserves from last year, but if the “recipe” requires the presence of fresh grass, it can be used at later stages, and in early spring the trees can be protected with the help of chemicals. Actually, this approach looks quite logical: until the bud has blossomed, we use protection that is more “heavy” and dangerous for the tree itself, and after the leaves open, flower and the ovaries appear, we use the “light version” as a “control shot.”

To spray the garden, pest-intolerant plants such as: field sow thistle (it is recommended to take freshly picked), capsicum (you can take dried), Walnut(dry leaves), sweet and bitter nightshade (you need fresh tops of stems with leaves, buds and flowers), tansy (dried inflorescences), wormwood (you can take dried), chamomile, Dolmatian, Caucasian (you can take dried), sarsazan (you can take dried shoots), tomato tops (you can use dried ones or take them from last year’s compost), garlic (crushed cloves), pine needles, bird cherry (you can take dry branches with leaves), sophora phyllo or thick-fruited (dried greens collected during the flowering period) , tobacco (shag) and many others.

The principle of preparing the solution is approximately the same: the raw materials are crushed, filled with water, infused and filtered. The proportions, if desired, can be seen online. In addition to herbal preparations, spraying is also carried out with a saline solution or a solution of superphosphate and potassium chloride (the latter helps get rid of aphids and leaf-eating caterpillars).

Aphids and copperheads are also driven out by fumigating fruit trees with tobacco dust (it is poured onto straw, which is set on fire in the garden).

In general, we can say that folk remedies for garden treatment are certainly not as harmful to the environment as pesticides (although some concentrates can easily burn wood), but their effectiveness is disproportionately lower.

Therefore, when choosing one or another method of protection, you should take into account a lot of factors: from the weather to the condition of your garden, the age of the trees, the prevalence in the region and the infestation of a particular area by this or that pest, etc. It is also important to choose the right specific time when exactly you are going to treat fruit trees for pests: in early spring, at the beginning of flowering or after it.

When is it necessary to treat the garden against diseases and pests?

The timing of treating fruit trees against pests in the spring, as we have already understood, can be different. Some drugs should be used as early as possible, due to their particular aggressiveness, others can be used even during flowering and after the formation of the ovaries.

In any case, proper garden cultivation in the spring includes four stages:

Only like this complex work will allow us to protect the garden as much as possible, because if in early spring we first destroy microorganisms, then in April the main objective spraying - to protect the buds from fungal diseases, scab, powdery mildew, leaf roller, weevils, apple blossom beetle and other beetles, and in May - to protect the ovaries from later pests.

Features of garden processing in early spring

The very first treatment of the garden is considered perhaps the most important. It is better to destroy pests and disease carriers that have overwintered in the bark and tree trunk soil preventively, before they have yet recovered from hibernation and begun their dirty work.

The snow melted, the temperature rose above zero, it turned out to be a windless day - and off to work!

We already know what to spray trees in the spring before the buds open: we use pesticides whose aggressiveness is not yet dangerous to the tree, but is lethal to pests.

For the first spraying we use Bordeaux mixture in a concentration of up to 3%. Can buy ready set with correctly selected components, or you can make the preparation yourself by mixing 0.45 kg of lime and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate in a bucket of water (10 l).

You can also spray the trees with Nitrophen or a mixture of urea and copper sulfate (0.7 kg and 0.05 kg, respectively, per bucket of water). Instead of urea, some gardeners use nitrogen or potassium fertilizers, but not chlorine-containing ones. In any case, the fertilizer should be used immediately after dilution, otherwise it will lose all its effectiveness.

Trees and shrubs should be treated completely - from the trunk (especially in places of cracks) and trunk circle to the tips of the branches. Before starting spraying, be sure to thoroughly clean the trunk with a brush.

In addition, you need to keep in mind that different plants do not wake up after winter at the same time, so if you delay the first treatment, especially early trees and bushes can be burned. So, if apple, pear and plum trees are sprayed in mid-March, then, say, the growing season of black currants can begin earlier.

Accordingly, it is better to divide the procedure into several stages than to try to do it in one day and end up rinsing young kidneys with poison.

Spraying trees and bushes before flowering As was said, before flowering begins, after the buds swell, and also directly at the buds (before they bloom), the garden is re-treated. If spraying is carried out with pesticides, you need to use a weaker concentration (for example, if during the first treatment Bordeaux mixture

we diluted it to a 3% solution, now we use a 1% solution). However, it is preferable at this stage to use more modern drugs that can be purchased in specialized stores. For example, by mixing the fungicide "Horus" and the insecticide "Aktar", you will simultaneously protect the garden from fungal diseases and insect pests. The same mixture can be reapplied after the trees bloom.

Such drugs as “Fufanon”, “Decis”, etc. have proven themselves well.

The nuances of garden processing during the flowering period

The question “Is it possible to spray trees during flowering?” is quite controversial. Many gardeners categorically do not recommend doing this, since it can damage the inflorescences and disrupt the entire subsequent process of fruit setting.

In general, there is no doubt that during the flowering period you should definitely not use strong pesticides, which can cause harm not only to the flowers, but also to the bees that are actively “working” in the blooming garden. If for one reason or another you did not have time to cultivate the garden before the flowers appeared, then it is still better later than never.

Treatment of trees and shrubs after flowering

Spraying fruit trees and shrubs after flowering - the final stage spring protection garden from diseases and pests . Its main goal is to destroy the caterpillars of the leaf roller, codling moth, weevils, moths, aphids, ticks and prevent possible diseases garden

The treatment should be carried out no later than three weeks after the trees and shrubs finish flowering.

There are a lot of modern preparations for treating the garden during this period, so there should be no problems with choosing the most suitable one. But what you definitely shouldn’t spray on trees after flowering is pesticides in high concentrations. It is better at this stage to give preference to biological products or more gentle chemicals. For May spraying of fruit trees, for example, you can use the following preparations: “Brunka”, “Blue Bordeaux”, “Fital”, “Delan”, “Saprol”, “Fury”, “Fastak”, “Talstar”, “Fufanon”, "Decis", "Karate", "Confidor", "Uppercut", "Koragen".

The fungicide "Skor", recommended for use at this stage, is also effective and low-toxic. The choice depends on many factors, in particular, each drug is aimed at combating certain pests, which, in turn, have their own preferences among fruit trees. Therefore, read the instructions and select the optimal mixture.

So, for example, for apricot the greatest danger is hole spotting and monilial burn; pests include aphids, leaf rollers, and moths.

The peach, when flowering, is often affected by leaf curl and clasterosporium blight, and is also often attacked by the codling moth. Plum trees are susceptible to moniliosis, clasterosporiosis, and polystigmosis; among insects, their main enemies are mites, aphids, leaf rollers, and codling moths. After flowering, cherry and cherry orchards can be affected by clasterosporiasis and coccomycosis. Cherry flies love to lay eggs under the skin of fruits at the moment they set; aphids and leaf rollers also infect these trees.

Apple and pear trees suffer from scab and powdery mildew; the most dangerous pests for them are the codling moth, mites, aphids, and sawflies.

Important! At this stage, it is better to spray the garden in the evening: the caterpillars, hidden in the foliage, come out at night to feast on the ovaries and green mass, on which the poison is already waiting for them. If the drug has worked, in the morning you will be able to observe a mass phenomenon: a huge number of dead caterpillars hanging from branches on thin cobwebs.

How to properly treat trees and shrubs against diseases and pests

By and large, you can act as you wish, but for the safety (of yourself and others), as well as to achieve maximum effect, it is better to follow certain rules and recommendations.

You need to start spraying from the crown, gradually moving down. The final stage is processing the tree trunk circle (it is very important not to forget this area). With the exception of the last spraying, which is carried out during the period of active “work” of the caterpillars, it is better to treat trees in the early morning.

To carry out the procedure, you need to choose a windless, dry day. Check the weather forecast and if rain is expected in the next 24 hours, postpone the procedure for several days. With minimal humidity, the active substance will be absorbed faster and cause less damage to the plant. An exception may be some biological products, which, on the contrary, require moisture, so read the instructions before using them. It is also important to correctly calculate required amount the drug, since it reuse after some time it is absolutely unacceptable: you need to dilute exactly as much as is needed for today's processing. This should be based on the following calculations: mature tree“it takes” about 5-6 liters of solution, for shrubs and young trees - from 0.5 to 1.5 liters, depending on their size.

Finally, to make work convenient, you shouldn’t put a broom in a bucket and spray it on the tree - it’s better to buy a modern sprayer. Today, manufacturers offer a wide selection of models that will allow you to choose best option depending on the size of your garden (they differ both in volume and power, and, accordingly, in price). Low-growing trees and young seedlings can be treated with an ordinary plastic sprayer, and for larger gardens it may be worth purchasing an expensive but very reliable electric pump.

Don't forget about personal safety precautions. You need to clearly understand how toxic the drug you are working with is and, depending on this, adjust your behavior. In any case, the face should be covered with a respirator or gauze bandage, the hair should be covered with a scarf or bandana, and the eyes should be protected with goggles. Wear gloves and in general it is better not to leave any exposed skin. Keep household members (especially children) and pets away.

905 once already
helped

It is necessary to spray trees for the first time in March, when the snow has almost melted and the street temperature has reached +5°C.

We must not forget that along with the emergence of insects from hibernation, the buds on the trees begin to swell. This suggests that it is impossible to use highly concentrated solutions for spraying, since it can damage leaves that have not had time to bloom.

After finishing preparatory work move on to choosing a means to kill rodents, and also decide what concentration it will be.

For early processing use more concentrated sprays to kill pest larvae deep under the bark. However, it is better not to use a strong concentration, even if the leaves have not yet blossomed on the trees. The tree may die, or burns may appear on the trunks.

The trees need to be treated a second time in mid or late April. This is the period of flowering of pears and apple trees. There is no need to remove the bark this time. The main thing is to protect the inflorescences that bloom during this period. There is no need to dilute the product in the same proportion as before. Flowers may die. Instead, use a concentration several times lower.

The trees should be sprayed for the last time in mid-May. For spraying, the same drug is used, in the same concentration as half a month ago. At the same time, the growth results are compared. To do this, take leaves from different trees and see how much longer they have become. If there is no result, then the second spraying did not produce results. You can also compare the lengths of branches. The lack of changes indicates that pests continue to destroy your favorite apple tree.

To avoid problems, you need to spray tree trunks in the morning or evening, when there is no wind outside. Check the weather forecast first, otherwise rain may wash away all the sprayed preparations before they penetrate the tree bark in the required quantity.

Pests that have overwintered in fallen leaves become very active with the onset of the first warm days. At this time, the buds also bloom. They are just a treat for them. Insects can destroy not only buds, but also flowers with buds. At the most favorable time for insect activity, you can lose your entire crop.

Spraying preparations are purchased in specialized stores or made independently. If there are few pests, then the following are ideal for controlling them:

• Hemp;
• Hot pepper, capsicum;
• Nightshade.

They will help eliminate beetles from the bark and leaves of the tree.

If hawthorns or apple honeysuckers dominate among insects, then the trees should be sprayed with tansy, dandelion, onions, celandine and even tobacco. Plants can be used in crushed form. They can pollinate plants after watering or rain, or you can prepare decoctions from them and spray them.

How to prepare a pest repellent?

Tansy

Cooking method:

Take 700 grams of tansy powder and add ten liters of water. Let the resulting solution sit for two days. Then boil the resulting mixture for 25 minutes, strain through a strainer, and again add ten liters of water. Trees can be treated with this solution three to four times.

Capsicum to kill butterfly caterpillars

Take one kilogram of pods, add ten liters of water, leave for two days, then boil the infusion for sixty minutes, and leave again for two days. Pour the concentrate into bottles and seal them tightly. You can use it for a whole season, adding 80 grams of laundry soap to every ten liters of water.

If there are too many insects, then drugs such as chlorophos, nitrafen, karbofos are used to spray trees. Their use is especially effective for protecting buds.

Spraying is also used to control diseases. One of the most dangerous diseases trees - fungal. The causative agent of the disease overwinters on fallen leaves, after which spores form on it. When there are a lot of spores, they can stick to trees with droplets of water and germinate. As a result, a mycelium is formed. Fruits affected by a fungal disease may crack and gray-black spots appear on them.

Until the buds begin to bloom, the soil and trees are sprayed with a sufficient amount of nitrafen.

To get rid of scab, use a five percent urea solution. You can carry out pest control operations both in spring and autumn.

If a tree has suffered from black cancer, as a result of which it may die or not produce a harvest, fungicides are used, while simultaneously cutting out the damaged areas. The most dangerous form of this type of disease is damage to the bark, which is expressed in the form of depressed brown-violet spots.

To ensure that the bark, branches and soil are moistened and saturated with the solution as much as possible, it is necessary to use fine sprayers. Large drops easily roll off the tree. As a result, the spray effect is reduced.

The following solution can give qualitative results:

300 grams of lime and copper sulfate must be diluted with ten liters of water. Infuse and boil as described above. Spraying with the resulting solution is done in early spring, during the period of first tree care, when the buds on them have not yet blossomed.

During re-processing - when the leaves begin to fall, it is necessary to prepare the following solution: dilute one hundred grams of copper sulfate and the same amount of lime with ten liters of water. Repeat the previous manipulations.

In addition, you can use nitrafen, two hundred grams of which are diluted with ten liters of water. The solution should not be overused.

Use of the drug 30B

The first spring spraying is carried out before the buds begin to open, when the temperature reaches +4C.

Dose of the drug depending on the type of shrubs:

• 300 milliliters per ten liters of water when spraying currants, gooseberries and raspberries;
• 350 milliliters of the drug per ten liters of water, for spraying plums, apple trees, pears and cherries;
• 350 milliliters per ten liters of water for caring for citrus fruits;
• 400 milliliters per ten liters of water for disinfestation of shrubs and ornamental trees;
• 170/300 milliliters per ten liters of water for spraying the grapevine.

The drug is compatible with many chemicals, which makes its use especially relevant and practically irreplaceable.

Trees should be treated in early spring, then when the fruits have formed. In the summer, when pest activity is at its peak outside, and of course, after you have harvested the entire crop and the leaves have fallen.

This procedure was carried out year after year and gardeners formed their own spraying calendar, in which you can see when and with what means it is worth spraying the trees. Summer residents experimented for many years and, based on the information collected from different gardeners, a certain sequence was established.

And in March, gardeners most often fight microorganisms, and in April they protect the buds of fruit trees from fungal diseases. Then, already in March, all your strength can be devoted to protecting against other diseases and pests. But this should be done only when all the trees have already bloomed.

How to spray

Many beginners believe that the treatment is a very easy procedure and only requires a special solution and a pump for spraying trees. And they are wrong. Here full list tools you will need:

• piston type pump or specialized compressor;
• gauze bandage, which needs to be made multi-layered or take a respiratory mask;
• latex gloves;
• preparations for spraying;
• protective glasses.

Before you begin the procedure of spraying fruit trees, you need to carefully inspect the entire tree. If during inspection you find lichen and moss, then you should carefully remove it using metal brush. Inspect the spraying apparatus in advance. For example, its hose may be short in order to process the upper branches. Therefore, it needs to be extended or a stepladder installed in advance. It is necessary to process trees completely, not only in easily accessible places, since partial processing will not give you any result.

As for the spraying agent, it must be uniform. If it is poorly mixed with water and poured into the apparatus, then one part of the plants can be treated with water, and the second with an active substance, which will lead to the death of the entire tree. Therefore, during the procedure you need to periodically shake the solution.

Here is the sequence of the procedure:

• put on equipment: eye mask and respiratory mask;
• Apply the product you need according to schedule evenly onto the branches, leaves and post. The tip of the device should be kept at a distance of 70-80 centimeters from the object. This way the solution will fall like dew and fill all hard-to-reach places;
• the drug must be placed on the back side of each leaf;
• After the procedure is completed, carefully and thoroughly rinse the device with all its parts. Don't forget to take care of yourself. Wash your hands and face with soap and rinse your mouth.

It is recommended to treat not only one tree, but nearby plants too. This way you will create the maximum effectiveness of a particular drug in the garden. This is especially true for the procedure for exterminating insects, because they can move to another tree and harm it.

Copper sulfate

Now you should find out everything about the preparations with which you are going to treat the trees. One of them is copper sulfate. Trees are sprayed with this preparation twice during the entire summer season. The first time is in early spring, before the first buds appear on the trees. This is done so that the solution does not harm young leaves. And the second time is used if there are wounds on the tree that require disinfection.

Most often, the drug is used for spraying pear, apple and plum trees in the first month of spring and at the end of October. Copper sulfate protects plums from:

• moniliosis;
• curliness;
• coccycosis;
• Clusterosporosis.

As for how to dilute copper sulfate and how much it is needed for one tree. The answer is very simple. If there is a tree growing in your garden that is not yet 6 years old, then you only need 2 liters of solution per seedling. For more mature plant, which brings you an excellent fruit harvest, you need to use 10 liters.

It needs to be diluted away from people and animals, and so that it does not end up in various water supplies or bodies of water. For trees, 50-100 grams are enough, which need to be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spraying is best done in the morning or evening, when the weather outside is calm and the temperature is from +5 to +30 degrees.

Urea

As a first step in caring for fruit trees such as apple, plum and pear, they should be sprayed with urea a week after flowering or for wintering. Such treatment will have an additional effect that will save the future harvest. When the tree is first treated, in addition to destroying all pests, you also slow down the rate at which the tree wakes up from its hibernation for several weeks. This will help protect the sensitive plum blossom from early frosts.

Just like copper sulfate, it is diluted in 10 liters of water, while only 50 grams of the product itself is needed. Orchard Spray a week after flowering to protect it from copperhead, aphids, and caterpillars.

In the autumn, when half of the foliage has already fallen off, the trees should be treated with a solution of a higher concentration, but it should be less than 500 grams per 10 liters.

You can spray it not only on the branches and trunk, but also on the ground, this way you will also fertilize the plants. If you hurry and do this procedure earlier than expected, the leaves will get burned and fall off faster. And the fruit trees won't get enough of everyone nutrients which they need for wintering.

inkstone

Iron sulfate, like copper sulfate, is sprayed twice a year: in spring and autumn. When trees are treated with this product, they get a double effect. On the one hand, trees receive iron in a certain form, which helps it with respiration. And on the other hand, it is an effective drug that will protect against pests. Most often, trees such as apple, pear, and plum suffer from iron deficiency. This can be seen in the quantity and quality of the harvest.

It happens that the garden consists of old fruit trees, so you need to spray the product not only in March, but also at the end of autumn. This will help in the fight against:

• deprived;
• moss;
• cytosporosis;
• black cancer;
• semtosporosis;
• cytosprorosis.

And thereby automatically increase your harvest and the growth of the plant itself.

Preparation-30

For spraying fruit trees, Preparation-30 is used in early spring or late autumn. The concentration should be 200 grams per 10 liters of water. With this treatment you will get rid of whiteflies, aphids, moths, leaf rollers, red and brown fruit mites, and larvae. Many argue that this drug achieves results not through poisoning, but through the film that is obtained after spraying. It does not disrupt water balance and gas exchange. This creates a terrible environment for pests to exist in, and they die. But despite its effectiveness, drug -30 is recommended not to be used more than once every 3 years.

Bordeaux mixture

Bordeaux mixture is used in the fight against diseases. Most often this applies to apple, pear and quince. At the beginning of spring, this liquid is used with a concentration of 300-400 grams per 10 liters. And during the growing season you only need 100 grams per 10 liters. Bordeaux mixture has increased resistance to humid environments. It is best to use it when the buds on the trees open and in late autumn, before frost.

The mixture itself consists of copper sulfate and lime. When working with it, only wooden, glass and clay containers are used. During processing, it is best to isolate all animals and people around. It must be used when there is high dew, when precipitation is possible.