In our climate it takes two years to grow. In the first year, seeds are sown - nigella. Onion sets grow in the fall from these seeds, and in the spring of next year they are planted in the beds. Large bulbs grow from it in the fall. Onion is very popular vegetable crop most countries of the world. It has been grown for a very long time and is used in folk medicine and cooking. You can grow it both in the garden and at home, on the windowsill.

Description this culture is a small annual onion, 1.5 - 2.5 cm in diameter.

Important!Onion sets are planting material, not a variety.

Before planting, you must select good bow sets suitable for growing in a particular climate.

Popular varieties:"Sturon", "Stuttgarter Riesen", "Centurion", "Hercules", "Red Baron".

Did you know? In nature there are decorative types Luke. One of these is the Moly onion (Allium moly), which has yellow flowers.

Choosing a place to plant onion sets

In order to know how to plant it cultivated plant, you need to remember a few simple rules for care and cultivation. We start by choosing a landing site. The beds should be located in a well-lit and wind-blown area. Sevok does not tolerate excess moisture, so the beds should be located in a place where rainwater does not stagnate. The soil should be light, loose, fertile. Onion sets will not be able to grow in clay soil. The type of soil is easy to determine; just dig with a shovel several times:

• clay soil- heavy lump, sticks to the shovel (you need to add two or three buckets or sand)
• sandy loam soil or loam- the soil falls off easily from a shovel (the soil is suitable for growing)
• sandstone- the soil crumbles and lumps and blocks do not form (the addition of humus or compost will make the soil suitable for sowing onions, provide the soil with nutrients and help retain moisture)

It is not advisable to plant in the ground where it grew or The best predecessors of seeding are pumpkin crops: Grows well in the vicinity of You cannot plant the crop in the soil where fresh was added Only in a year this place will be favorable for planting. Caring for sevka open ground differs slightly from the greenhouse one.

Preparing a bed for onion sets

They prepare for planting in advance; the bed is prepared in the fall. The soil is dug up well, weeds are removed and sprayed with a solution copper sulfate. Before the first frost, the bed is well watered, and in winter the snow needs to be removed from it. This is done so that the soil freezes well, and next year the plant will be less damaged by pests.

In spring, the soil is loosened with a rake or lightly dug up so as not to disturb the soil structure and retain moisture. They contribute organic fertilizers and - not too deep so that the roots located in the top layer of soil receive nutrients.Gives good results complex fertilizer.

Preparation of seeds (nigella)

Before planting, set seeds must be checked for germination. A month before planting, you need to take several seeds (15 - 20 pieces) and put them in a damp cloth. In a few weeks it will be possible to judge whether these seeds are worth using for sowing. If sprouts have appeared, then you can start sowing. Next, you need to prepare the seeds to prevent fungal diseases:

1. The seeds are wrapped in cloth and immersed in hot water for 15 minutes.
2. After this they are lowered into cold water for 1 minute.
3. The seeds are then soaked for 24 hours in warm water.
4. Keep for 1-2 days wrapped in a damp cloth at room temperature.

Seeds are prepared in another way: oxygen is supplied to a container with water under pressure and the seeds are lowered there for 20 hours. After this they are dried. Set seeds are ready for planting.

Timing of sowing seeds

The timing of sowing seeds depends on the weather. You can sow nigella on warm February days. But basically the sowing of seeds is carried out in early spring, when the ground has warmed up well and you can dig it up.

How to sow onion seeds: planting methods

To know how to easily grow onion sets, you need to remember a few simple things. Cultivation is divided into two stages: planting the seeds, which are called "nigella", and then planting onion sets obtained from the seeds in the spring. Sowing of seeds is carried out using the tape method. The bed should be about one meter wide and have loose soil. The depth of the grooves should be 1.5-2 cm deep, and the distance between the seeds should be 1-1.5 cm.

Important! If you sow seeds rarely, you will get large onion sets. If often - unripe small sets. It is poorly stored and germinates early.

Cover the bed with the sown seeds with a small layer of peat and carefully water it. Then we cover it with film to create a favorable water and air regime for seed germination. When the seeds germinate, remove the film. You need to pay attention to agricultural cultivation technology. How deep the seeds are planted is the size of the onion: if the depth is 2-3 cm, the seedlings will be better. If you sow smaller, the seedlings are unfriendly, the crops are sparse, and large onion sets grow. If you sow deeply, the seeds do not germinate well, the bulbs are small or may not form at all.

Care and cultivation of onion sets

This crop does not require much attention in cultivation and care. The plant will good quality, if you follow a few simple rules.

Watering the soil

Plants should be watered no more than twice a week, only in May and June, if there is no rain. In the second half of the growing season, you should not water, because the bulbs are maturing.

Weeding and loosening of rows

One of important rules- remove weeds and prevent a soil crust from forming. If you do not remove weeds, the growth of onion sets will slow down. The soil crust does not allow seedlings to grow evenly and reduces the quality of the harvest. Nigella seeds can be mixed with radish or lettuce seeds. This helps to know where the onion rows are located, as it will sprout faster. When the onion sprouts, the beacon plants can be removed.
The first thinning should be carried out when several true leaves appear at the seedling. You need to leave 1.5 - 2 cm between them. If this is not done, the leaves do not have time to form in sufficient quantities, and the bulbs turn out small.

Did you know? They say that people who work in a greenhouse and grow green onions, suffer less from colds even during epidemics.

Fertilizer application

twice during the entire ripening period. If the soil is poor in nutrients, then fertilize it a third time. The first time they fertilize is when they appear. green leaves. They are also fertilized with potassium chloride. After a couple of weeks, a second feeding is carried out for the seedlings; held for the third time foliar feeding crops that help to ripen better.

For getting large onion For turnips, the best planting material is a set of 1.5-2.5 cm in size.

PREPARING SETS FOR PLANTING

Before planting, the onion sets are sorted out, all dried out, bare, diseased, damaged, cut, and sprouted onions are removed, and the remaining ones are sorted by size so that the shoots are uniform. First, large, then medium and small bulbs are planted in the garden bed.

If you take your onion sets for planting, which were stored at a temperature of 18-20 °С, then additional heating is not required. If you buy planting material, then 2-3 days before planting, be sure to warm the bulbs for about heating devices at an air temperature of 30-40 "C.

You can carry out another treatment: just before planting, pour the seeds into a bucket, pour in for 1-2 minutes hot water(55-60 °C), and then lower into cold for 1 minute. If you do not do any processing, the planted onion sets may go to waste.

After heating, the bulbs are soaked in a nutrient solution. Dilute 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska, or nitroammophoska, or “Rost-1”, or any complex fertilizer in 10 liters of water, stir well and dip the bulbs in this solution in a fabric bag for 8-10 hours. Then, to prevent fungal diseases, the bag with the onions, without washing, is dipped for 5-10 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) or in a solution of cherry potassium permanganate. The treated onions are rinsed clean water

and begin landing.

PREPARING THE BED The bed for planting onion sets is prepared in the fall. Its width is 100 cm. Everything is removed from the bed vegetable waste

, sprayed with a disinfectant solution of copper sulfate (per 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, or copper oxychloride, or polycarbocin) at the rate of 1-1.5 liters per 1 m 2. Onions grow well in neutral soils. Therefore, dolomite flour or chalk or a ready-made deoxidizer substrate (can be purchased at the Seeds store) are added to acidic soil at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 1 m2. Then the bed is dug up with a pitchfork.

Before frost, the garden bed is additionally watered, and in winter it is a good idea to clear the snow from the garden bed. All this is done to ensure good freezing of the soil. As a rule, in such a bed, onions are less damaged by diseases and pests. In the spring, organic and mineral fertilizers

, depending on the composition of the soil:

loamy soil - per 1 m2 5-6 kg of humus, 4-5 kg ​​of peat, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystalline; clay soil - per 1 m2 5-6 kg of humus, 5-6 kg of peat, 8-10 kg of coarse-grained, 100-150 g expanded clay drainage, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea;

peat soil - per 1 m2 5-6 kg of humus or compost, 8-10 kg of coarse river sand, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea;

sandy soil - per 1 m2 1 bucket of humus or compost, 1 bucket of peat, 1 bucket of loamy or clay soil, 2 tablespoons of dry fertilizer “Breadwinner” and 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska.

The bed is dug to depth bayonet shovel, level with a rake, lightly compact and disinfect with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter per 1 m2.

The prepared bed is covered with film for 2-3 days to better warm the soil, since seedlings planted in cold soil (below 12 °C) can go to waste.

PLANTING ONION SETS

In the southern climatic zones onion sets are planted in the third ten days of April, in other areas - in the first ten days of May. You cannot be late with planting, otherwise the onion will develop slowly due to lack of moisture and high temperature.

Before planting the bulbs, the bed is marked: grooves are made to a depth of 4 cm with a distance between them of 20-25 cm. The soil is watered from a watering can with a fine strainer with water at room temperature (20 ° C) at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m 2.

The bulbs are planted in grooves with a distance of 8-10 cm from each other so that the soil layer above the shoulders of the bulbs is no more than 2-2.5 cm. If the planting is too deep, ripening will be delayed and the bulb itself will change shape. When planted shallowly, the bulbs are exposed and their growth is stunted, especially in hot, dry weather.

Shoots appear 5-6 days after planting.

CARE OF TURNIP ONIONS

Care consists of watering, weeding, loosening, fertilizing and processing.

Watering. Onions are quite demanding when it comes to watering, especially in the first 2.5 months (May, June and half of July).

In May, it is watered every week from 6 to 10 liters per 1 m2, in June - every 8-10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 m2. in the first half of July - every 8-10 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 m 2. If the second half of July is hot, then you can water 1-2 times every 8-10 days at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m2. Water from a watering can with a small stream so as not to break the leaves. 15-20 days before harvesting, watering is completely stopped.

Do not water onions with cold (below 18°C) water to avoid downy mildew.

Weeding. Prevent weeds from appearing, they create high humidity and conditions for fungal diseases. It is best to remove weeds from moist soil when they reach a height of 3-5 cm. Onions grown in unweeded areas have a thick, juicy neck, which makes them difficult to store.

Loosening. Every two weeks the bed is loosened, especially after watering and rain, to maintain good air access to the root system.

Loosening is usually carried out to a depth of 2-3 cm.

Feeding. During the growing season, you can do 2-3 feedings.

The second feeding is given 12-15 days after the first. 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska or organic fertilizer “Fertility” are diluted in 10 liters of water and consumed 3 liters per 1 m 2. The third feeding is carried out when a bulb with a diameter of Walnut

: 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of “Breadwinner” fertilizer per 10 liters of water at the rate of ZL per 1 m 2. Treatment. When the leaves (feather) reach a length of 12-15 cm, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment against fungal diseases (false powdery mildew ). In 10 liters of water dilute 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride and 1 tablespoon liquid soap

, spray on the leaves at the rate of 0.5 liters per 1 m 2. The most effective method

against downy mildew is treatment with the fungicide “Alyette”, but they are prohibited from treating onions used for feathering.

CLEANING AND STORING ONIONS

The onion is ready for harvesting when the formation of young leaves has stopped, their lodging has begun, the bulbs have fully formed and acquired the color characteristic of the variety.

Onions are harvested from mid-August to the first ten days of September. If you are late with harvesting, then after 8-10 days the onion growth resumes, and such bulbs are unsuitable for storage. Cleaning should be done in dry weather. The onion is dug up with a pitchfork and carefully pulled out by the leaves from the soil. The soil remaining on the bulbs is removed by hand, rather than shaken off, since mechanical damage causes the bulbs to rot during storage. Then the onions are laid out in the open

sunny place to dry for 12-15 days. After this, the leaves are cut off, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. The cut onions are dried again at a higher temperature.

Onions can be braided if the leaves are not diseased. With this storage method, there is no need to cut the leaves, but they should be dried well before braiding. Onions can also be placed in baskets or boxes of 10-12 kg and stored at room temperature in a dry room at home.

Onions grow well on fertile cultivated soils. The soil in our gardens is sandy, and we have never been able to grow large onions. To increase the fertility of such lands, tons of organic matter are needed. Manure quickly disappeared from the beds, and its nutrients were washed into the lower layers of the soil. In addition, manure applied in large quantities increases the risk of fungal diseases and increases the nitrate content in vegetables.

Several years ago I became interested in Dr. Mittleider's theory and now produce excellent bows using his methods.

Processing of planting material

I grow onions from sets - small onions obtained last year from seeds. About two days before planting, I place the seedlings for 10 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of about 45C. When the solution has cooled to 30-35C, place the container in heating battery or another heater so that the temperature does not drop further. I leave the onion in this solution for 8-10 hours (usually overnight).

Some gardeners have adapted to warming up the seedlings in a thermos and even advise repeating this procedure three times, removing the onions from the solution so that they have time to dry on newspapers during the day. This technique is carried out with the aim of disinfecting the seeds and preventing them from bolting.

After soaking in potassium permanganate, I remove the husks from the onions until they reach the white “shirt.” Thanks to this they are less affected onion fly. Then I place them in a basin with wet sawdust for a day. During this time, healthy bulbs will grow small roots. I don’t use those onions that haven’t sprouted for planting. In this way, I immediately discard weak planting material that is not capable of producing large bulbs.

Many gardeners regret throwing away unsprouted seedlings, and then “admire” the half-empty beds and suffer in the winter, peeling small onions for cooking. Appreciate your work! Don’t force yourself to work for a harvest that is obviously bad.

Preparing the bed

Onions are a cold-resistant crop. I plant it in the first ten days of May, when surface layer the soil will warm up. I pre-prepare the bed (according to the Mitlider method).

The bed should have a width of 45 cm with a row spacing of 90 cm. Rollers (beads) of soil up to 10 cm high and 5 cm wide are formed along the bed. Rollers are necessary so that the fertilizer solution does not spread when watering, and narrow beds provide ideal lighting, since neighboring plantings do not shade each other. It is also undesirable for shadows from trees, bushes or buildings to fall on the garden bed, especially from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

The length of the bed can be arbitrary, but it is more convenient to make it 4.5 or 9 m long, because it is easy to measure the rate of the mixture of mineral fertilizers for fertilizing at this length.

Before forming a bed for onions, I evenly scatter a soil deoxidizer - lime or dolomite flour based on 450 g per 4.5 linear meters beds.

At the same time I sprinkle the following mixture:

2. Ammonium nitrate- 0.7 kg,

3. Potassium chloride - 0.4 kg,

4. Magnesium sulfate - 0.5 kg.

MIXTURE APPLICATION RATE: one two hundred gram jar of mayonnaise per 4.5 linear meters of bed. Every 7-10 days after planting the onions, you need to add the same amount of this mixture, so after preparing it, I store it in an airtight container (a plastic can with a lid).

After forming the bed, I water it with a solution from a watering can. boric acid. This fertilizer is a micronutrient, so it is applied in very small doses. You need to take enough boric acid so that for each kilogram of lime added ( dolomite flour) it accounted for 10 g. That is, for 4.5 linear meters of bed - 4.5 g of boric acid. To dissolve it, I take enough water to evenly water the bed (about 5 liters per 4.5 linear meters of bed). I water the solution on the day of planting or 2-3 days before it.

Landing

So, the sprouted seedlings with roots and a bed filled with fertilizers are ready for planting. Now the bulbs need to be planted correctly. To do this, using a peg with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm, I make holes approximately 5 cm deep at a distance of 5 cm from one another. I pour a mixture of equal parts sand and wood ash into these holes. Then I plant the onions, carefully pressing them into the holes. In this case, the roots do not break, since the mixture is very loose.

I fill the top of the onion with soil and compact it along the entire row, carefully pressing the soil against the roots. There is no need to plant onions deeply; there should be no elevation of the soil above the row.

Care

To get large onions great importance have feeding. According to the Mitlider method, the fertilizer mixture given above is applied 5-6 times (until July 10).

Fertilizers are scattered in a narrow strip in the middle of the bed (according to the norm) and immediately watered. It is necessary to water every other day, since undissolved fertilizers are not available to plants.

If by July 20 the bulbs have not come out of the ground, then the soil around them is raked away so that the bulbs are exposed. Do this gradually, 2-3 times. This technique accelerates the growth and maturation of the bulb. If at the beginning of August the onion feathers have not yet died, then they are bent to the ground (rolled). When the onion feathers begin to fade, its roots are trimmed with a shovel. Remove the onions without waiting for the feathers to dry completely. Store in braids or baskets in a dry place.

For gardeners who are accustomed to applying manure “as the hand takes it,” this technique may seem complicated. But try to do it step by step and you will see that it is very easy to do. And most importantly, it gives clear recommendations on what to do and when to do it. I have tested this method of growing onions on my site several times.

Basic principles of the Mittleider technique:

Using narrow beds with wide row spacing;

Regular feeding of plants with balanced mixtures of fertilizers;

Frequent, almost daily watering.

The harvest is excellent, and I wish the same for you.

P. Simonov, experienced gardener

Number of impressions: 20451
Rating: 2.77

Mon, 04/20/2009 - 11:23 — che

Onions have a pungent taste, a peculiar smell and have healing properties, as it contains special substances - phytoncides that kill pathogenic bacteria. As our grandfathers said: “Onions cause seven illnesses.” It improves the taste of food, promotes its rapid digestion and absorption.

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Growing onions everywhere. To get a large turnip onion, you need to spend a lot of time and effort.

In the first year, seeds are sown, from which small (1 to 3 cm in diameter) bulbs grow, the so-called sets.

In the second year, the sets are planted and large onion heads are collected in the fall. In the third year in the spring, the resulting onions are planted. It produces flowering shoots, in the inflorescences of which seeds ripen, the so-called nigella, which got their name for their black color.

Growing onions- seed set.

Preparing seeds for sowing. 3 a month before planting, the seeds are checked for germination. Take 15-20 seeds and keep them damp cloth 2-3 weeks. Before sowing, to protect the seeds from fungal diseases, immerse the seeds, wrapped in cloth, first in hot water (45-50°C) for 15 minutes, and then in cold water for 1 minute.

After this, soak the seeds in warm water (22-26°C) for 24 hours. Then drain the water and keep them for 1-2 days at room temperature. It is necessary to ensure that the fabric in which the seeds are wrapped is constantly damp.

Seeds can be prepared for sowing in another way. The container is filled with water, oxygen is supplied under pressure and the seeds are lowered for 18-20 hours. Then the seeds are dried in air for 15-20 minutes until they flow and are immediately sown on a previously prepared bed. Seeds are sown on April 20-25. All of the above applies equally to the type of chives.

Onion care. Preparing a bed for growing onions.

Choose an open, sunny, dry place for sowing. Onions are sown where cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, and slides used to grow, on loamy soils seasoned with organic and mineral fertilizers.

The ridges are made low (12-15 cm), no more than 100 cm wide. They dig up and add 3-4 kg of manure humus or compost and 2-3 kg of peat per 1 m2. From mineral fertilizers, add 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and nitrophoska or nitroammophoska and a glass of wood ash. The bed is dug up again to a shallow depth, mixing all the fertilizers with top layer soil.

The prepared bed for growing onions is leveled, compacted, watered with copper sulfate solutions at a temperature of at least 50°C (for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride) at the rate of 2 liters per 1 m2 and covered with film until sowing 2 -3 days.

Sowing seeds.

Before sowing, the bed is marked: step back 10 cm from the edge and make three grooves along it with a distance of 5 cm from each other and a depth of 2 cm, then step back 14-15 cm and again make three grooves, etc.

Seeds are sown in furrows every 1-1.5 cm.

After sowing, the soil in the garden bed is slightly compacted and carefully watered with water from a small watering can at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2.

Since onion seeds germinate slowly, the bed must be covered with a film, which is stretched over arcs 20-30 cm high or covered with material (lutrasil). The shelter retains soil moisture and accelerates the emergence of seedlings.

When emerging from the ground, onions look like loops (cotyledons). Some gardeners bury the seeds very deeply in the soil, as a result, not the cotyledons, but the roots come to the surface. Such plants die. The same phenomenon can occur in very dense clay soil. If onions are sown frequently, the seedlings must be thinned out so that the distance between the seedlings is 1.5-2 cm.

The loops (cotyledons) straighten after 12-16 days, then the first true tubular leaf appears. A second leaf emerges from the base of the first leaf, and so on.

Caring for onion sets.

How to care for onions? Caring for onion sets involves watering, controlling weeds, pests and diseases.

Onion sets are watered once a week in May-June, in hot, sunny weather - 2 times a week at the rate of 5-10 liters per 1 m2. In July, watering is sharply reduced as the bulbs begin to ripen. In hot weather, water once a week with a small dose to prevent the bulb from wilting. Watering is done carefully, from a small watering can using the sprinkling method so as not to break the feather.

Usually onion sets are not loosened, but if the soil is compacted, then loosening is done in wide rows to a depth of 2-3 cm.

At growing onions his crops must be clean, so it is necessary to destroy the small weeds that appear, since when weeding large weeds, the bulbs can be moved and they will stop growing. Before weeding, the onions must be watered well.

If leaf growth is slow, you need feeding onions. A glass of mushy mullein or bird droppings, a tablespoon of urea or crystals are diluted in 10 liters of water, stirred and watered 3-4 liters per 1 m2.

Cleaning and storing onions.

Growing onions isn't everything. Onions must be collected correctly and on time. A sign of onion ripening is lodging and yellowing of the leaves. The sets are harvested from July 20 to August 10, depending on their ripening. Even if the leaves have not completely yellowed, you still need to pull out the onion and spread it in a thin layer for 12-15 days to ripen and dry.

The onions are dried in the sun, then the dried leaves are removed, and the heads are additionally dried for 2-3 days at a temperature of 30-35 ° C near heating devices or a Russian stove. Such thorough drying protects onions from neck rot and downy mildew.

After all these operations, the onion sets are sorted. Small bulbs 1.0-1.5 cm in size is best planted before winter in early October. Large sets, over 1.5 cm, are poured into boxes of 10-15 kg or in canvas bags of 15-20 kg. Canvas bags are tied, placed in plastic bags and stored in a dark place at a temperature of 17-18°C.

Once a month, the onions are inspected to eliminate rotten, dried heads.

If the sets are stored at a temperature higher or lower than recommended, the bulbs will go into arrows when planted.

Growing onion from sets.

To obtain large onions, the best planting material is sets (bulbs measuring 1.5-2.5 cm).

Preparing seedlings for planting. Before planting, the onion sets are sorted out, all dried, bare, diseased, damaged, cut, and sprouted onions are removed, and the remaining ones are sorted by size so that the shoots are uniform. First, large, then medium and small bulbs are planted in the garden bed.

If you take your onion sets for planting, which were stored at a temperature of 18-22°C, then additional heating is not required. If you buy planting material, then 2-3 days before planting, be sure to warm the bulbs near heating devices at an air temperature of 30-40 ° C. You can carry out another treatment: just before planting, pour the onion sets into a bucket, pour in for 1-2 minutes hot water (65-70° C), and then immerse in cold water for 1 minute. If you do not do this, the planted onion set will go to waste.

After heating, the bulbs are soaked in a nutrient solution. A tablespoon of nitrophoska or nitroammophoska, ROST-1 or any complex fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water, stirred well and the onions in a fabric bag are dipped into this solution for 8-10 hours. Then the bag with the onions, without washing, is dipped for 5-10 minutes for the prevention of fungal diseases in a solution of copper sulfate (per 10 liters of water - 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate). The treated bulbs are rinsed with clean water and planting begins.

Preparing the bed. When growing onions, the bed for onion sets is prepared in the fall. All plant waste is removed, sprayed with a strong disinfectant solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons of copper sulfate, copper oxychloride or polycarbacin per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1-1.5 liters per 1 m2. Onions grow well in neutral soils. Therefore, dolomite flour or chalk is added to acidic soil at the rate of 1 cup per 1 m2.

Before frost, the garden bed is additionally watered, and in winter it is a good idea to remove the snow from the garden bed. All this is done to ensure good freezing of the soil. As a rule, onions in such a bed are less damaged by diseases and pests.

In the spring to the garden bed as a future feeding onions organic and mineral fertilizers are applied depending on the composition of the soil.

The soil is loamy - per 1 m2 add 3-4 kg of humus, 4-5 kg ​​of peat, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystallin.

The soil is clayey - per 1 m2 add 5-6 kg of humus, 5-6 kg of peat, 8-10 kg of coarse river sand, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystal.

The soil is peat - per 1 m2 add 5-6 kg of humus or compost, 8-10 kg of coarse river sand, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea or crystal.

The soil is sandy - per 1 m2 add a bucket of humus or compost, a bucket of peat, 2 buckets of loamy or clay soil, 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea or crystal.

The bed is dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel, leveled with a rake, lightly compacted and disinfected. warm solution copper sulfate (per 10 liters of water - 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate), at the rate of 1 liter per 1m2.

The prepared bed is covered with clean film for 5-6 days for 1-2 days.

Onion care. To grow good onions, you need to meet the planting time of the sets. In southern climatic zones, onion sets are planted in the third ten days of April, in other regions - in the first ten days of May.

We must remember that you cannot plant onion sets in unheated soil (below 12°C): they will shoot. And you can’t be late with planting either, otherwise the onion will develop slowly due to lack of moisture and high temperature.

Before planting the bulbs, mark the bed: make grooves to a depth of 4 cm and with a distance of 20-25 cm between them. Water with water at room temperature (20 ° C) at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2 from a watering can with a fine strainer.

The bulbs are planted in grooves with a distance of 8-10 cm from each other and covered so that the layer of soil above the shoulders of the bulbs is no more than 2-2.5 cm, since with deeper planting the ripening will be delayed and the bulb itself will change shape. When planted shallowly, the bulbs are exposed and their growth is stunted, especially in hot, dry weather.

Caring for onions. Shoots appear 5-6 days after planting. Caring for onions involves watering, weeding, loosening, fertilizing and processing.

Onions require watering, especially in the first 2.5 months (May, June and half of July). In May, in dry hot weather, it is watered every week with 6 to 10 liters of water per 1 m2. In June - every 8-10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 m2; in the first half of July, water every 8-10 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 m2. If the second half of July is hot, then you can water 1-2 times every 8-10 days at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m2. Water from a watering can with a small stream so as not to break the leaves. 3a 15-18 days before harvesting the onions, watering is completely stopped.

Do not water onions cold water(below 18° C) to avoid onion disease with downy mildew.

Do not allow weeds to appear, they create high humidity and conditions for fungal diseases.

Onions grown in unweeded areas have a thick, juicy neck, which makes them difficult to store.

It is better to remove weeds when wet soil when they reach a height of 3-5 cm.

Onion care. Onion feeding

During the growing season, you can do 2-3 feedings of onions.

The first feeding of onions is recommended when the leaves grow weakly and are light in color. A glass of mushy mullein or bird droppings and a tablespoon of urea or crystal are diluted in 10 liters of water, pouring 2-3 liters per 1 m2.

The second feeding of onions should be carried out 12-15 days after the first. Dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of nitrophoska, pouring over 5l per 1m2.

The third feeding of the onion is given when an onion with a diameter of a walnut is formed. Dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of superphosphate, pouring 5 liters per 1 m2.

When the onion leaves (feather) reach a length of 12-15 cm, you need to make preventive treatment against fungal diseases (downy mildew). A teaspoon of copper is diluted in 10 liters of water. vitriol or copper oxychloride and a tablespoon of liquid soap, sprayed on the leaves at the rate of 0.5 liters per 1 m2.

Cleaning and storing onions. The onion is ready for harvesting when the formation of young leaves has stopped, lodging has begun, the bulbs have fully formed and acquired the color characteristic of this variety. Onions are harvested from mid-August to the first ten days of September.

If you are late with harvesting, then after 8-10 days the growth of onions resumes, and such bulbs are unsuitable for storage.

Harvesting grown onions should be done in dry weather. The onion is dug up with a pitchfork and carefully pulled out of the soil by the leaves. The soil remaining on the bulbs is removed by hand, and not shaken off, since it will mechanical damage the bulbs rot. Then the onions are laid out in an open sunny place to dry for 12-15 days.

After this, the leaves are cut off, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. The cut onions are dried again at a higher temperature (30-35°C) for 5-6 days. This drying will reduce the number of bulbs affected by neck rot. It is advisable to dust the onions with chalk.

Onions can be braided, or placed in 10-12 kg baskets or boxes and stored at room temperature in a dry place. http://www.sadovod.spb.ru/TextShablon.php?LinkPage=193

Every housewife knows that there should always be onions in the house. This product is added to almost any dish; it can bring great benefits to our body. The one who has country cottage area, definitely plants it at home. But not every novice gardener knows how to ensure that the harvest ends up being abundant.

Preparing the bed

The most important thing for a good harvest is for planting onions. For sowing, sunny and open place. Loamy soils, which are pre-filled with mineral and organic fertilizers, are very suitable for onions. Most often it is planted on land where beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, peas or cabbage previously grew. The beds are not made very high, up to 15 cm, and the width is maintained no more than 100 cm. They dig up the substrate for each square. m add 4 kg of manure humus or compost and 3 kg of peat. Then everything is loosened again to a shallow depth, all components are mixed well with the layer of earth. Carefully level the soil and compact it lightly, then water it with a solution and cover it with film for several days before planting.

Preparing the sets

Preparing onions for planting is, although not particularly difficult, painstaking work. To do this you need:

Carefully sort through the heads and remove all soft, dried out and spoiled ones.
- Seeds that have not yet developed green sprouts need to be cut off. To do this, use scissors to remove the top dry part, thanks to this you can speed up germination.
- Dry a little and place the heads in a warm and dry place.
- They must be thoroughly heated at a temperature of +20-25 degrees.
- Immediately before planting, the onions are soaked for 3 hours in a special composition, which is prepared at the rate of 1 tsp. salt per 1 liter of water.
- In order to prevent the occurrence of diseases, it is necessary to carry out disinfection. The most reliable remedy is a saturated one. Two hours of soaking will be enough to kill all germs.
- The seeds are dried a little, and the preparation of the onion sets for planting is completely completed.

Spring planting

Sowing begins around the beginning of May, when the soil is already well warmed up. The smallest seeds are immersed in the ground first. They should be less than 1 cm and will not form arrows. Two weeks later, when the preparation of the soil for planting onions in the spring is completed, the main sowing begins. If you send very large seeds into the ground, they will shoot out arrows very quickly, which will significantly reduce the final harvest. Before starting work, it is necessary to treat the heads with a growth stimulator - strictly according to the instructions.

Autumn planting

In the fall, they plant the smallest sets, the diameter of which is less than 1 cm. First of all, this is done because such bulbs very rarely survive until spring. The work is carried out 2 weeks before the start of the first frost. These seeds will be perfectly preserved in the ground, they will not sprout, and in the spring they will produce good harvest, as there will be a long growing season. Preparing onions before planting follows the same scheme as in spring time.

Proper care

The main requirements for caring for seedlings are watering, timely control of pests, weeds and diseases. From May to June, plants need to be watered once a week, and for hot weather, the number of approaches should be doubled. There are 5-10 liters of water per 1 m2. In July, the supply must be reduced as the bulbs begin to ripen.

Watering at this time should be careful so as not to damage the fruits. Even if the soil preparation for planting onions in the spring is done correctly, in a short period of time the soil can become compacted, then it must be loosened in wide rows, literally a few centimeters. Before this procedure, it is recommended to water the soil abundantly.

Which variety is better

The choice primarily depends on the purpose that the fruit should bear. For example, if you grow onions for greens, then take the advice of trusted plant growers and buy chives and shallots, or batun and slug, which are preferred by most gardeners. A the best option When deciding what type to buy for a head, it will be to buy the “Timiryazevsky”, “Oporto” or “Stuttgarter Riesen” varieties. If the preparation of onion sets for planting was done correctly, then all of the listed heads will have excellent taste and attractive appearance. appearance With good size. As practice shows, if everything is done correctly, then from one hundred square meters you can get a harvest that reaches 400 kg. Moreover, 9 out of 10 bulbs will have an excellent presentation and maximum shelf life.

Watering

If the preparation of onion sets before planting was carried out according to all the rules, the plant took root well and began to grow, then during the growing season it needs to be watered 5-7 times. First, you need to actively add liquid, and after the root crop is formed, all actions are reduced. You should not add too much water, as the bulb may become wet and the harvest will be lost. After the arrows appear, they must be broken off so that all the juices go directly to the bulb, and it has time to form before harvesting. At this time, watering should be reduced. If the bulb does not have time to come out before the end of the growing season, then it will need to be dug up a little and carefully watered, this will improve ripening.

Fertilizer

Even if onions are very well prepared for planting, they still require fertilizer. All organic minerals must be added to the soil in the fall at the rate of 5 kg of rotted manure or compost and 1 kg of ash per 1 m2.

You can also use and which are applied at the rate of 100 grams per 1 m 2. In spring, it is necessary to replenish it with additives suitable for this season in the same calculation. It is not recommended to add all mineral composts deep into the soil, otherwise there is a risk of burning young roots, and almost all useful components will go to the lower layers.

Cleaning and storage

The preparation of the onions for planting was done correctly, a wonderful harvest grew, and it was time to harvest. The main signs of ripening are yellowing and lodging of the leaves. It is customary to dig up the crop from July 10 to August 10, depending on the speed of development of the vegetable. Even if not all the leaves have turned yellow, at this time the onion must be pulled out of the soil and laid out in a thin layer for 12-15 days for drying and ripening. Both preparing onions for planting and storing them require certain skills and knowledge. The crop is dried in the sun, then the dried leaves are removed from it and the heads are further dried for several days at a temperature of +30-35 degrees. This can be done near heating devices or a Russian stove. Such a high-quality procedure will help protect the heads from diseases of neck rot and downy mildew.

After all the operations performed, the seedlings must be sorted. It is better to set aside small bulbs up to 1.5 cm in size and plant them before winter, in early October. A large harvest is collected in 10-15 kg and filled into boxes or canvas bags. They are then placed in plastic bags, tie well and store in a dark place at a temperature of +17-18 degrees.

Once a month it is necessary to monitor the harvest in order to promptly throw out rotten and withered heads. If you store the seed at a temperature above or below the specified temperature, then when planting it will go into the arrow.

Prevention and treatment of diseases

Preparing onion sets before planting cannot always protect them from various diseases. He is susceptible to a huge number of ailments. The most common of them are mosaic, onion smut, gray neck rot, bottom rot, and also false rot. You need to know that if a vegetable has been affected by a disease, then it is not at all suitable for storage.

There are certain measures that prevent the occurrence of diseases. In particular, this is an annual fruit change and compliance with crop rotation. Preparing onions for planting on the head should begin with the thorough destruction of all remnants of other vegetables in the soil, disinfection of seeds and maintaining spatial isolation between sowing vegetables of the first and second year. It is possible to plant a vegetable in its previous location only after three to four years. It is very important to keep food and planting material clean. It is imperative to disinfect the storage and carry out preventive spraying.

It is not advisable to sow near large floodplains, swamps and reservoirs. In order to reduce the risk of various diseases of onions, it is necessary to carry out deep autumn plowing with a plow, as well as fertilizing with the optimal amount of fertilizers. Wherein large quantities nitrogen is best avoided.

Phosphorus-potassium supplements significantly increase disease resistance. They also perfectly help prevent the occurrence of periporosis and neck rot. In addition, with the help of such components you can speed up ripening and protect the vegetable from dangerous pests.

Preparing onions for planting on the head involves inspecting all seeds for damage; only healthy ones are suitable for the ground. Before starting work, it must warm up. Such measures can protect and protect the heads from rot. As a result, the amount of waste during storage can be reduced. This method can help to notice damaged and infected bulbs in time and remove them. Warming up can also protect against the appearance of downy mildew.

How to Grow Shallots

Grow this beautiful plant on your own site it is very simple if you have well-fertilized soil. It is planted in order to obtain juicy and healthy greens, this is the so-called Preparation for planting should begin in the fall, although it is not very harmful, it does require some measures. To do this, mineral and organic fertilizers are introduced into the ground during digging. This requirement is considered basic in order to ultimately obtain a wonderful harvest. The bulbs to be harvested are carefully sorted and any damaged or rotten material is discarded.

Preparing onions for planting should occur in early spring, when they are planted in the ground, as the threat of frost has passed. Before starting work, the material is soaked for a couple of hours in warm water or in a light solution of potassium permanganate. The heads are laid in the ground in rows according to a 15x25 cm pattern. The depth of lowering of the bulbs is 4-5 cm. Legumes are considered the best predecessor crops. The plant prefers moderate irrigation and is not particularly demanding of moisture. The basis of care is to remove weeds, weeding and rare watering.