Grill scoop dimensions. Better than in the store! DIY barbecue accessories: tongs, skewers, grates

Making a scoop with your own hands

Manufacturing stages:

1. Take a steel rectangle measuring approximately 300x50 mm.
2. Cut corners at approximately 45 degrees. Where the working part will be, the cut should be somewhat deeper.
3. Having retreated about 10 mm from the pointed end, drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm, after 25 mm - another one.
4. At a distance of 150 mm from the end of the plate, a mark is made and the plate is bent at a right angle.
5. Cut a steel circle about 400 mm long or any other convenient one. An M10 type thread is applied to one end to a depth of 10-15 mm, and two holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled at the other end: one at a distance of 12.5 mm from the edge, the second after another 25 mm.
6. The metal plate is fixed with rivets on the circle.
7. The handle is turned hollow, and a thread is applied inside to a depth of 10-15 mm. The handle is then screwed onto the threads on the circle.

Making a scoop

1. The base for the bucket is made from a steel sheet measuring 22x28 cm.
2. An indent of 50 and 100 mm is made from the short side, then parallel lines are drawn through the marks made.
3. On the line closest to the edge, 3 cm from the other edge, two more marks are made. The next two are placed on the edge of the sheet opposite them, and the marks are connected.
4. An angle is cut along the two intersecting lines.
5. Steps 1-4 are repeated on the other side.
6. On an anvil or other sufficiently hard and stable surface, using planks, the rear part of the future bucket is bent.
7. The protrusions on the sides are bent in the same way.
8. A square rod is heated in a flame until red hot, then allowed to cool slowly.
9. One of the ends of the rod is firmly clamped in a vice, and a tube slightly shorter than the rod itself is put on it.
10. A collar is put on the unclamped end, and several revolutions are made around the axis.
11. The ends are sharpened to form cones 6-8 cm long on one and 15-20 cm long on the other.
12. The long cone is bent parallel to the main handle.
13. The other end is flattened on the anvil.
14. Holes are drilled in the flattened end and it is bent at the desired angle.
15. It is connected to the bucket using rivets.

Using a poker and scoop for a barbecue

• A poker shorter than 40 cm is inconvenient, as there is a risk of burns from the heat of the flame or coals.
• A poker longer than 75 cm is inconvenient for stirring firewood or coals.
• The poker should be light enough not to tire your hand and fit comfortably in your hand.
• The scoop is used to remove ash, wood chips or shavings from the grill.
• The handle of the scoop should be at such an angle that it is convenient to use.
• After use, the poker and scoop need to be hung on a special mount - it is usually located at the bottom of the grill.
• The end of the poker beak is better pointed - this will make it more convenient to chop charred logs.
• It is better if the poker has an additional spur - this will create additional convenience when pulling out extra logs or coals from the fire.
• If there are too large fragments among the coals or logs in the fire, then it is better to break them with a poker - this way they will smolder evenly, which will get rid of uncooked pieces of meat due to uneven heat.
• A poker will also come in handy if the pieces of coal are lying unevenly. This creates a temperature difference, and the meat lying closer to the top of the mound will be fried more deeply, but what is further away will not be fried.

Check out the video on the topic

Unusual options

• The corners of the scoop can be made not straight, but rounded.
• A poker or scoop with a twisted handle also looks unusual.
• The head of the poker may not be at a strictly right angle, but in the shape of a crescent.
• Also, the poker head can be flattened in the plane of the handle, and not perpendicular to it.
• The scoop scoop can have a design engraved on it.
• The poker can also be made from a solid rod, then not only the handle, but also the head will be curled.

How to make a tin dustpan with your own hands, the necessary equipment for cleaning premises. Inexpensive homemade thing will bring a lot of positive emotions while using it.

Consider a design consisting of only two parts:

Scoop bucket
pen

LADLE

Let's cut out the figure shown in the figure from galvanized sheet steel GOST 14918-80

The dotted line shows the places of bends, their radii, directions and angles.
Punch holes in the teeth or drill them with a drill. We bend the metal along the bend lines on the beam and beat it with a mallet (a flat wooden hammer) and get a scoop bucket.

If you make a false seam on the top edge of the scoop, from the side where the handle is attached (this will give the structure additional rigidity),

then on the development it is necessary to add an additional sector with a length of 200 (mm) and a width equal to the length of the seaming line.

In the figure, the additional sector is indicated in blue.

PEN

Let's make it out of wooden block size 25x25x200 (mm). Secure the block with its sharp edge facing up. We plan the sharp edge of a wooden block. Install the block with the next sharp edge facing up. In this way we process four edges and get a regular hexagon.

how to make a tin scoop

Sandpaper smooth out the sharp edges where the hand is located. We will cover it with a protective decorative coating for wood.

Alternatively, you can use the handle from a blueberry harvester as a base.

Assembly order:

1. We use steel rivets to connect the edges obtained after bending.

2. We screw the handle with self-tapping screws and a press washer to the curved triangles of the hexagon.

3. Use sandpaper to smooth out the sharp edges on the metal.

Having an idea of ​​how to make a tin scoop with your own hands, you can improvise and make a product of various shapes and sizes and for various purposes.

Advice:

For large-sized products, it is necessary to replace the false seaming with a wire one.
Do this on three sides of the ladle (on top of the ribs).
It is better to punch holes for rivets on a bent part.

Technology 5th grade

““Modeling an apron” 5th grade” - Artistic modeling. Applying the names of parts. Modeling the bib. Types of finishing. The process of creating clothes. Studying the material. Drawing of the base of the apron. Strap. Familiarize yourself with artistic design techniques. Repetition of covered material. Pocket modeling. Modeling the bottom of the apron. Fixing the material. Safety rules when working with scissors.

"Embroidery" 5th grade - Types of embroidery. Smooth surface. Five. Routing. History of embroidery. Embroidery. Physical education break. Your mood. Image. Magic chest. Get acquainted with the history of embroidery. Safety precautions. The young girl is not big, but she dresses the whole world. Counted embroidery. Safety precautions when working with an iron. Hand tools and materials.

“Natural fibers” - The finished fabric is dyed or printed with a design. Packaging in bales (pressing). The basis. Sewing materials science. In the spinning shop, threads are drawn and twisted from the roving. Carding shop. Pre-cleaning. Classification of natural fibers. How is the fabric obtained? Tape shop. Get yarn. Edge. A thin thread obtained by twisting fibers. Dividing the fiber into narrow strips (roving). Shuttle.

“Product manufacturing” - Selecting an option. Basics of design. Product.

How to make a tin scoop with your own hands

Product assembly. Manufacturing of the product. Transferring the drawing to the workpiece. Fundamentals of design and construction. Idea. Thinking over an idea. Drawing up a drawing.

“Design and modeling of an apron” - Design and modeling. Choosing fabric for an apron. Modeling methods. Modeling the main part of the apron. Pocket modeling. Modeling the bib. Measurements for constructing a drawing of an apron. Apron finishing options. Types of aprons. Purpose of the apron. Modeling an apron. Modeling.

“Natural fibers of plant origin” - Fabric taken from the loom. Cotton plant and cotton fibers. Natural fibers of plant origin. Types of weaves. Materials Science. Properties of cotton and linen fabrics. Fabric finishing. Primary processing of cotton. Sewing materials science. Linen. The process of obtaining fabric. Impact of various factors on flax and cotton. Fabric production. Textile.

There are a total of 29 presentations in the topic “Technology 5th grade”

5klass.net > Technology 5th grade > Sheet metal processing > Slide 34

DIY scoop

Manufacturing technology for forged devices

(Blacksmith tools)

Everyone knows how necessary fireplace and stove appliances are in the everyday life of rural residents and summer residents. Before we get acquainted with the technology of their manufacture, let's look at modern designs forges, using which you can count on success in your undertaking.

Rice. 1. Forge for “two lights” with a fan: 1 - umbrella; 2 — furnace nest (hearth); 3 - stand; 4 - fan; 5 - air duct; 6 - air damper; 7 — water tanks; 8 - partition.

Rice. 2. Cast tuyere (a) with replaceable grates (b): 1 - tuyere body; 2 - air damper; 3 - pipe; 4 - bottom cover; 5 - load.

In Fig. 1 shows a “two-fire” forge. Two blacksmiths can work with such a forge. The air supply to its centers is carried out by a fan with a 0.5 kW motor, and this supply is regulated by a special damper. Its design is shown in Fig. 2.

A modern lance is made of cast steel and has replaceable grates with different blowing holes. Holes arranged in a circle produce a wide torch flame, while slotted holes produce a narrow, oblong flame. To heat small massive workpieces, a torch flame is required, and for local heating of a long workpiece, a narrow flame is required.

We can offer two designs of forges (Fig. 3) with hand and foot drives for air supply. If you can’t find a suitable fan, then “wind blower” 4 can be made from plywood the way it was made in the old days.

Rice. 3. Ancient forges: a - with a “wind blower” and manual drive; b - with foot drive, 1 - box with sand and burnt earth; 2 - hearth; 3 - brick screen; 4 - “wind blower”; 5 - manual drive.

Rice. 4. Forging pliers: a - for round and square workpieces; b - for flat workpieces.

Rice. 5. Backing blacksmith tool: a - chisel; b - ironing board; c - acceleration; g - punch; d - cutting; e - cone; g - fork; z - slope.

Rice. 6. Poker (a) and its manufacturing technology (b - h).

Rice. 7. Grip (a) and forging sequence (b-d).

Rice. 8. Chapelnik (a) and forging operations (b - d).

To manufacture complex blacksmith products, you need to purchase: two types of pliers (Fig. 4); backing tool: chisel, smoother, straightener and punch (Fig. 5, a-d); as well as undercut, cone, fork and slope (Fig. 5, e-h).

Let's consider the backing tool of the first group. Work with it is carried out in a pair of “blacksmith - hammer hammer”.

Chisel in our case it is intended to cut metal. Depending on what material needs to be cut (cold or hot), the sharpening angle a is selected. For cutting hot metal, a is taken to be 15-30°, and for cold metal - 60-90°.

ironer used to level the forged surface of a product in a heated state.

Overclocking used where it is necessary to “disperse” - expand a part of the workpiece in a certain place.

Punchers, as the name suggests, punch holes. Each hole profile requires its own punch with a given bit cross-section.

The blacksmith holds a backing tool (chisel, smoother, sharpener or punch) and gives commands to the hammer: “hit”, “harder”, “quieter”.

The backing tool of the second group is installed with a shank in square hole anvil and is designed to perform various forging operations. The undercut allows you to cut workpieces by placing them on the undercut blade and hitting them from above with a hammer. The cone helps to straighten and make ring elements. The fork is widely used in all kinds of bending operations. The slope makes it easier to forge conical elements of products.

Let us now consider the technological methods of forging devices for the Russian stove.

The poker (Fig. 6) consists of two elements: a forged hook and a wooden handle (handle).

We forge a hook from round blank dia. 20-25 mm. To keep it heated, we use special pliers. The first heating is to heat the central part of the workpiece and “pull out” the neck (Fig. 6, b) on the anvil. Then we heat the front part of the workpiece, stretch it onto a “rectangle” (Fig. 6, c) and, using a backing tool (straightening), we begin to forge the metal into a “wide wedge”. In this case, first we set the alignment in the center of the workpiece and make the first “punching”, then the second and third (Fig. 6, d). After the next heating, we make two more punches - the fourth and fifth. The surface took the shape of a wide wedge - a fan. Now it needs to be well leveled (Fig. 6, d) and pulled with a hammer to a thickness of 0.5-1 mm.

Then we proceed to molding the sleeve. Using the undercut and the back of the hammer (Fig. 6, e), we bend the sleeve.

Gradually tapping the bushing (Fig. 6, g), we obtain a conical surface.

Making the working part of the hook is much simpler: we pull the round part of the workpiece to a rectangular shape and bend the hook (Fig. 6, h). Now let's mechanically process the hook, drill a hole in the sleeve for the screw, drive in the handle - the poker is ready.

Grip(Fig. 7) has its own characteristics. Let us determine for which cast iron (by size) a grip is needed and set two sizes: the clearance between the horns Q (Fig. 7, a) and the diameter of the inner circle 0. The clearance between the horns should be slightly larger than the diameter of the bottom of the cast iron, and the internal diameter of the grip 0 - slightly less than the maximum diameter of the cast iron shoulders. Thus, the housewife should have as many grips as there are cast iron pots of different sizes.

Now let's move on to making the grip itself. We make the sleeve in the same way as for the poker. After forging the other end into a rectangle, we cut it lengthwise using a chisel (Fig. 7, b) and bend it 90 degrees. one branch. After this, we extend the second branch onto the pyramid, make a small curl at the end (Fig. 7, c) and bend it 90 degrees. We heat the first branch, straighten it, pull it onto the pyramid and make a small curl at the end (Fig. 7, d). Then, after the next heating, using a fork, we successively form the grip horns (Fig. 7, e).

We process the grip with a file and insert the handle into the sleeve. Ready.

Frying pan or chapelnik(Fig. 8), as it was called in the old days, is also included in the set of accessories for the Russian stove.

The technology for making a chapel is initially exactly the same as for a grip. After the sleeve is made and the second end of the workpiece is pulled onto the rectangle, we begin to forge the hook.

First, bend it 90 degrees at the edge of the anvil. part of the workpiece and forge the edge of the fold, forming a spatula (Fig. 8, b). Then we form the hook itself, gradually bending it at the edge of the anvil (Fig. 8, c). The final bending of the hook must be carried out taking into account the shape of the edge of the frying pan (Fig. 8, d).

Fireplace appliances differ from stove appliances in their lightness, elegance and beauty. They perform not only their direct functions, but also serve as decoration for the fireplace room.

Poker(Fig. 9, a) can be made from rods of both round (dia. 12-14 mm) and square (10-12 mm) sections.

Let's consider the technology of making a poker from a rod of dia. 12 mm.

We stretch one end of the round piece onto the rectangle and make a small curl at its end. After that, use a fork to bend and form a handle. Similar operations are necessary to form a hook: drawing into a rectangle, forming at the end of a curl, and bending “on a fork.” To make the poker more elegant, we will make a twist in the middle of the rod. First, we stretch the central part onto the rectangle, and then, using a blacksmith’s (or metalworker’s) vice and a poker hook as a lever, we twist it (Fig. 9, b).

Rice. 9. Fireplace poker (a) and twisting operation (b).

Rice. 10. Scoop (a) and its forging (b-d).

SCOOP WITH A TWIST

Forceps (a) and the sequence of their manufacture (b-d).

Rice. 12. Options for forged handles (a), various shapes scoops (b) and methods of attaching them to the handles (c).

Scoop(Fig. 10) can be made like this. First, we forge the handle of the scoop using the same technology that was used when forging the poker. Only instead of a hook you need to forge a “leaf” and bend it to the shape of a scoop.

Let's consider the technology of forging a “leaf”. Having heated the workpiece, we pull its end to a “steep cone” (Fig. 10, b), then flatten it and get a “leaf” (Fig. 10, c). If we bend the handle to the shape of a scoop (Fig. 10, d) and rivet it to it with two rivets, then the scoop will be ready. The scoop is usually made of 0.5 mm thick sheet steel. First, it is advisable to make a pattern model from thick paper. You need to decide on the size and shape and only then make a metal scoop. Using a sharpened metal rod (scriber), we draw a scoop pattern on a metal sheet (Fig. 10, e), and then, using an anvil and metal strips, we bend the scoop. First the back part (1), then the sides (2, 3) and fold it back top part back wall(4) in the opposite direction.

Fireplace tongs(Fig. 11) we will forge using all our acquired experience. First, we stretch the central part of the rod onto the rectangle (Fig. 11, b) and using a fork, hammer and anvil horn we form a spring ring (Fig. 11, c). After this, we align the branches of the tongs along the length (if any branch turns out to be longer, then it must be heated and chopped off with a chisel). We will make the grips in the form of leaves (see technology above), and the places for holding by hand - by twisting (Fig. 11, d). These places must first be stretched onto a rectangle.

After making all the devices, they must be thoroughly straightened and blued. It will give the products a finished look and protect them from rust. The products are uniformly heated to a temperature of 300-500 °C and lowered into a tank with waste machine oil. If the bluing did not work out as expected the first time, it should be repeated. After this, the products are wiped well with a rag. Options for manufacturing forged handles are shown in Fig. 12.

DIY folding grill

A folding barbecue, made with your own hands, is convenient during transportation and does not take up much space in the car. For lovers of barbecue in nature, this design is intended, which can easily be made independently.

The design consists of four components:

Bottom (3)
side walls lengthwise (2)
side walls width (1)
legs (4)

Folding grill made of angle and sheet metal three millimeters thick. With such a thickness of metal, the impact high temperatures it does not deform. The best option, if all structural parts are made from of stainless steel– we will get an “eternal” use option.

Consists of two parts:

The circuit is welded from a metal corner GOST 8509-93
the plate is welded to the contour

The size of the structure can be any, it all depends on your appetite and the amount of meat cooked at one time.

SIDE WALLS

Let's drill through holes for better combustion of coals and cut grooves to fix the skewers at the desired angles.

By lenght

Width

To make grooves, we weld pieces of metal on both sides of the sheet.

LEGS

We will make it from metal rod GOST 2590-88, Ø12…14 (mm).

Assembly order

1. Let's bend the development of the long wall on both sides. In order for both parts to turn out identical, two sheets of blanks must be inserted into the bending machine.

2. Let's measure the distance between the two bent planes.
3. Cut the long corners to the resulting size. The corner should fit tightly into the cavity between the bent sides.
4. Let's weld the bottom.
5. Let's drill through technological holes:
– 4 for pins Ø6 (mm);
– 4 threaded M 10
6. Let's cut the thread
7. Place the side wall against the bottom and insert the pins. The wall should open to an angle from 0° to 90° (the plane of the corner will fix the angular movement of the wall at an angle >90°).

8. Let's weld the pin with inside bottom.

9. Screw the legs into the threads.
10. The side walls are the width, insert them through the grooves.

DIY scoop made of tin

A folding barbecue, made with your own hands, is ready for use.

This model will be easily disassembled and assembled within one minute, and the dirtiest surface will remain inside. We place the disassembled parts inside the grill.

As you can see, in assembled form- a small suitcase. If you want to carry it in a vertical position, you need to install a simple lock on the folding walls and attach a handle to one of them.

Eh... How many of them my father remade in his time! For every taste and for any purpose. Both for raking out ash and for grain and flour. I remember he did it without welding and without a drill and without bolts. Hands grew from that place...

I would like to offer several of the most popular options.

Option for a scoop for removing ash. Any metal with a thickness of about 2 mm is taken as the starting material. It can be galvanized or simple wire rod and aluminum. What is at hand in one word. The picture shows approximate calculations. Typically the size of the scoop should fit in the furnace vent.

We cut the metal according to the template, bend it and secure it with rivets. The handle is made from the same material. We bend it for greater stability, as shown in the figure, and at the place of attachment to the scoop, we rivet it a little - to capture most of the scoop. We attach either with rivets or bolts.

Option two is a grain scoop.

Typically, scoops for grain, flour and other bulk products are made in this form. That is, rounded. It's easier to make them.

But again, metal is needed. Although nowadays it can be replaced with plastic, in those days it was not.

So, use a jigsaw to cut out a semicircle from the board. As a handle, you can choose either wood or any other material, for example PVC pipe, suitable size. We attach the handle to the base, and cut out the scoop itself from metal, which we nail or take with screws to a semicircle from the board. That's it - the scoop is ready.

Well, another option is modern.

It can be used everywhere, except at elevated temperatures and various chemicals. And you can make it from plastic canisters with a similar configuration.