We build a comfortable, warm garage ourselves. Choosing material for the garage: what to build from? What is cheaper to build a warm garage from?
The construction of a garage can be ordered from third-party specialists. You can also study available instructions and build a great garage with your own hands. In this case, you will not have to spend money on anything other than construction and finishing materials. You will personally control every stage of the work and can be confident in the quality and reliability of the finished structure.
Choose the right material for building a garage. The structure can be made from “stone” building materials and metal. Brick, foam blocks, cinder blocks, etc. are usually used as stone materials.
A stone structure is characterized by higher reliability when compared with metal structures. A metal garage wins in terms of complexity and speed of construction. Otherwise, you will have to make the decision on the appropriate building material yourself.
First, the procedure for constructing a garage from stone materials will be discussed, and at the end you will receive recommendations for building a metal garage.
Project preparation
A competent project is the key to successful work. Project documentation can be the most modest. The main thing is that the project reflects the following information:
- tasks assigned to the future structure. A garage intended solely for storing a car will be different from a building in which it is also planned to carry out any other activities. renovation work. Be sure to take this point into account and reflect your wishes in the project;
- dimensions of the structure. Depends on the requirements for the future garage and the area of the available construction site. A room measuring 3x6 m is sufficient for storing a passenger car. For the rest, focus on your needs and capabilities.
Consider the points described above and draw a sketch of the future garage on paper or in a computer program.
Marking and excavation work
Transfer the finished sketch to the real area. A number of reinforcement pegs will help you with this. Typically, rods with a diameter of 12 mm are used. You will mark the corners and sides of the garage using pegs driven into the ground and string stretched between them.
After completing the marking, proceed to the main excavation work. The earth can be dug using special equipment or manually. If you are planning to install a viewing hole in your garage or even a full-fledged cellar, it is recommended to use the help of companies specializing in excavation work. Digging such a large hole by hand is very difficult.
When digging, take into account the features of the future foundation. For a strip base, a trench 60-100 cm deep is sufficient. The specific depth depends on the climatic conditions and type of soil at the construction site. A meter depth is sufficient in most cases.
Level the bottom and walls of the pit. An ordinary shovel will help you with this.
Foundation structure
Today there are many types of foundations. Private garages are usually built on rubble concrete foundations. This is a relatively inexpensive and extremely easy-to-install system that you can do yourself.
First step. Place rubble stone in the trench. This stone must be placed in layers, pouring each layer with concrete mortar. Prepare the solution using cement M400 or higher. Place the stone up to the top of the hole.
Second step. Install wooden formwork for the base around the entire perimeter of the pit. Assemble the formwork structure from boards. Boards about 10 cm wide are suitable. In general, the structure is set strictly according to the level.
Third step. Lay moisture-proofing material along the base. Two layers of roofing felt will be more than enough. The material is laid dry.
Fourth step. Fill the base of the future garage with concrete mortar to the level established by the formwork.
Installation of gates, construction of walls and construction of the roof
First step. Install the gate. This element is installed strictly before the construction of walls begins. Weld reinforcement rods with a diameter of about 12 mm to the gate frame. Thanks to the rods, a stronger connection between the garage door and its walls will be ensured. During the construction of the walls, reinforcement will be embedded in the seams. Install the gate strictly vertically. Once the gate is level, secure it using wooden braces.
Second step. Start laying out the walls from the selected material. The next row of masonry, regardless of the material used, must overlap the seams of the laid row. The actual laying should begin from the corners. Be sure to check the verticality of the walls, the correctness of the angles and the horizontality of the masonry rows at each stage.
Third step. Install the garage roof at a slope necessary to drain atmospheric water. To obtain a slope, make the end walls of different heights. Traditionally, a slope of 5 cm per 1 m2 is performed. For example, if the garage is about 6 m long, the total height difference will be about 30 cm.
The ceiling of a private garage will look like metal beams with additional lining made of wooden boards. Prepare I-beams. Their height should be about 12 cm. Use beams such that their length is approximately 250 mm greater than the width of the future garage. Insert these beams into the structure by at least 100 mm. At the support points of the beams, cinder block, brick or other building material used should be replaced with monolithic concrete blocks.
Lay the beams across the building at a distance of about 800 mm from each other. The beams are laid embedded in the long wall of the building and with the same slope as that of the given wall.
Step four. Attach wooden boards 4-5 cm thick along the bottom of the beams. Lay the boards as closely as possible to each other. Cover the boards with roofing felt. The edges of this waterproofing material should extend approximately 100 mm onto the wall.
Fill the roofing material with slag or cover the waterproofing with other insulation, for example, mineral wool insulation boards. Visors protruding approximately 40 mm should be installed along the rear and front edges of the roof. Use boards to make canopies. Pour over the insulation cement screed about 3-3.5 cm thick. Try to level the screed as carefully as possible. Be sure to treat the hardened screed with a bitumen primer.
Step five. Finally, the roof needs to be waterproofed. To protect against moisture, you can use the roofing material you already know. This waterproofing material is laid using the fusion method. Roofing felt can also be attached using bitumen mastic. Lay roofing felt sheets with an overlap of about 100-150 mm. At the edges of the roof, overlap the visor.
Guide to installing floors and blind areas
Make the floor at the level of the upper border of the base or slightly higher. The floor structure must be strong enough to support the weight of the vehicle and other loads. For pouring, use concrete prepared with grade 500 cement. Or buy ready-made concrete grade M200. The thickness of the filling layer should be about 10 cm.
First step. Carefully level the base for pouring the floor.
Second step. Set by required level beacons and pull a string between them. Lighthouses can be made, for example, from profile pipe or other suitable material.
Third step. Place a cushion of crushed stone about 5 cm thick on the base.
Fourth step. Pour concrete in strips between the beacons. After laying all the concrete, the surface should be carefully leveled.
Fifth step. While the floor is gaining strength, start doing external work, in particular, constructing a blind area. In the case of a garage, a blind area 50-60 cm wide is sufficient.
The blind area is created in the same order as the floor, i.e. first you install the beacons, then prepare the base from crushed stone and pour the concrete solution. You just need to first install boards that will mark the boundaries of the blind area, i.e. make formwork. It is recommended to make the blind area itself with a slight slope from the garage walls. The recommended thickness of the structure is 40-60 mm.
As a rule, special attention is not paid to the decoration of the garage. In most cases, owners simply rub the walls with cement mortar and cover them with a layer of plaster.
A more significant point is the thermal insulation of the structure. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam slabs are suitable for insulation.
The ceiling, walls and garage doors are insulated in a similar manner. A sheathing is attached to the surface to be finished with a step equal to the width of the insulation slab, then a polyethylene film is laid on the sheathing, insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing, the laid slabs are covered with moisture insulation, and finally finishing sheathing is performed, for example, with clapboard, siding or other material of your choice.
The procedure for constructing a metal garage
Setting up a metal garage requires less money and time.
First step. Make a foundation. Pre-prepare a trench about 400 mm deep around the perimeter of the future metal structure. Fix the formwork boards along the outer boundaries of the pit. Make the formwork at such a height that after pouring, the layer of mortar protrudes above the ground by at least 10 cm. Pour the mortar over the entire area at once.
Second step. Make a frame from a profile pipe. You will need a welding machine. Attach the frame elements to the dried concrete base. For fixation, use anchors about 20 cm long and about 14 mm in diameter. Anchors can be made from reinforcement. For greater convenience, pre-prepare holes in the concrete with a diameter equal to the diameter of the anchors.
Third step. Weld the bottom chord of the garage frame to the driven rods. To securely fix a structure measuring 4x6 m, 15 anchors will be enough. Continue welding the cross members of the structure until you get the frame to the required height.
Fourth step. Cover the frame with sheet metal. Sheets 3-4 mm thick will be enough.
Fifth step. Insulate the garage walls from the inside. To do this, first attach a frame made of wooden blocks to the walls. Place the beams in increments equal to the width of the insulation slab. It is most convenient to use for thermal insulation mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Previously wooden frame should be covered with plastic film, and insulation should be laid on it. Place a vapor barrier film over the thermal insulation. Finally, cover the walls with clapboard, OSB, siding, chipboard or any other material of your choice.
Thus, if you need a simple and inexpensive garage, opt for a metal structure. Subject to proper construction and careful handling metal garage will last a very long time.
If you want to have a capital and most durable structure, make a garage from concrete blocks, bricks and other similar materials. Both problems can be solved on your own without any problems; you just need to carefully follow the instructions and unconditionally follow the basic recommendations.
Good luck!
Video - Building a garage with your own hands
The need for a garage is not discussed if you already have a car. In most cases, the car owner tries to provide the most reliable shelter for his vehicle. But it happens that circumstances favor the need to build a garage with minimal costs and as quickly as possible. Is this really real? This will be discussed in the article.
Preliminary stage
Doing it cheap does not mean doing it poorly. Although different materials can be used to build a garage, the preliminary stage will be the same for each of them.
Selecting a location
The convenience of using it will depend on how well and correctly the location for the garage is selected. If there is no other way out, then you can start from the free area in the yard. If possible, it is best to place the garage closer to the main building. In this case, it will be easier to operate it in bad weather, since you will not have to travel long distances, for example, in a downpour. If circumstances allow, then you can build a small transitional canopy for these purposes. It is good to place the garage structure in line with the main gate. If you are planning a parking area in front of the garage, then you need to step back five meters from the main gate. This will ensure that even with a parked car it will be possible to open the gate.
The site on which the garage will be built should not be the lowest point on the site. If this is the case, then rain and melt water will certainly accumulate inside the room, which is not good for both the car and the tool that is in the garage. This is also bad for most building materials from which the garage will be built. When servicing a car, you will definitely need water and electricity, so it is necessary to locate the garage in such a way that you have to put in less effort when connecting communications.
Laying the foundation
The optimal solution when constructing a garage structure with at the lowest cost there will be a slab foundation. A foundation of this type can hardly be called the cheapest solution, but it will eliminate the need for subsequent pouring of the screed. In the selected area, the dimensions of the future structure are clearly indicated. This can be done with string or fishing line stretched between the pegs. After this, the turf is removed from the designated area. This will make it possible to simplify the task of soil sampling. Next, a pit is dug over the entire area of the structure. Its depth should be half a meter. If it is known that the soil in the area is very frozen and heaving is observed, then additional insulation will be required.
The bottom of the pit for the garage structure is leveled and compacted well. After this, sand is added, which is also well compacted and leveled. A layer of 10 cm will be enough. A backfill of medium-fraction crushed stone is made of the same thickness; it is also leveled and compacted, which will simplify the task of subsequent filling. If insulation is necessary, insulation in the form of extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid on top of the crushed stone. The one used for insulating routes is suitable.
The next step is to build metal grill. For a pouring height of 15 cm, one level of the grid will be sufficient, which is laid out with a cell of 10 cm. The metal rods are tied together using knitting wire. The dimensions of the grate itself should be 5 cm shorter on each side compared to the overall size of the foundation for the garage. The metal structure should not be laid directly on insulation or on crushed stone. It should be raised by 5 cm. This can be achieved with special plastic stands that are commercially available for this purpose.
The final stage in forming the foundation of the structure is pouring the concrete solution. It is better to use a concrete mixer for its preparation, since it will provide sufficient pouring speed to make the slab monolithic. After pouring, a deep vibrator is used. Its task is to correctly distribute the solution over the prepared base structure while removing air from the thickness. Smoothing can be done with a large trowel. Further work construction of the structure can begin in two weeks, if we are talking about the warm season.
Advice! If groundwater is close to the surface, then the foundation is waterproofed. For these purposes waterproofing material placed under insulation.
Possible options
Most available materials To build a garage structure at the lowest cost, you can consider wood, corrugated sheets and cinder blocks. Each garage option has its own nuances that are important to consider during construction.
Wood
The simplest version of a wooden structure can be considered a garage built using frame technology. Without much difficulty, the entire structure can be built independently. In this case, a pitched roof is used, which requires a simplified rafter system. The basis will be a square beam with a cross-section of 10 cm. The first step is to waterproof the foundation surface under the lower trim. The latter is made by laying logs around the perimeter of the foundation. The logs are securely fixed to the surface of the structure using anchor bolts. It is possible to provide special metal plates, which are embedded in the foundation and subsequently act as log holders.
After the bottom trim of the garage has been completed, install vertical racks. Corner ones are made from the same timber. It is important that they are positioned vertically and secured with jibs. Along the upper edge of the structure, the top trim is made with the same beam. At a distance of 60 cm, additional vertical posts are installed on each of the walls, except for the one where the entry gate will be located. A window and door opening is provided, which, along with the opening for the gate, is reinforced with additional racks. Rafters are laid across the entire length of the garage structure, onto which the roof will be fixed.
Advice! To create a garage roof slope in the required direction, it is necessary to provide in advance that two of the four side posts are longer.
A sheathing is made on top of the rafters for a specific type of roof for the garage structure and the finishing flooring is installed. The walls are sewn up with any suitable material. For the garage you can use moisture-resistant OSB plate, which is subsequently painted in the required color or covered with decorative plaster. We are installing windows, doors and garage gates. Below in the video you can clearly see how a garage of this type is built.
cinder block
The second material option that can be used to build an inexpensive garage is cinder block. It consists of blocks made from a solution that is mixed with slag, which is a by-product of any production. The cost of a cinder block is low, but you can build a good-quality garage from it. After waterproofing the foundation, construction of the walls of the structure begins. Laying cinder block is carried out in the same way as brick. But in this case it is necessary to try to make minimal mortar joints.
After the garage walls are ready, you can proceed to the construction of the rafter system. A Mauerlat is mounted on the upper edge of the garage walls, which can be made of wood or poured in the form of a monolithic armored belt. The reinforcing structural element allows you to reduce the load on the walls and securely fix the garage roof. In this case, it is also more convenient to use a pitched roof, which will save on wood for farms. According to the requirements of the roofing decking manufacturer, the sheathing and finishing sheeting are installed.
The final stage is the installation of gates, doors and windows. Cinder block should not be left without exterior finishing, because it absorbs moisture well and can be destroyed over time. To prevent this from happening, the surface of the garage walls can be plastered or covered with siding. The second option will be implemented in more short time and will cost less. Video about finished project There is a garage of this type below.
Corrugated sheet
Another option for an inexpensive garage is a structure made of corrugated sheets. In this case, it is best to use a metal frame, which will serve as the basis of the entire structure. Before laying the foundation of the structure, it is necessary to install support pillars. They are installed every two meters. A metal pipe measuring 8x8 cm can be used as garage posts. A hole is made under each post using a garden drill. It must go below the freezing point of the soil, so that when the top layer freezes, the frame does not lose its geometry due to exposure to heaving soil.
After the supports of the garage structure have been walled up and the foundation has been poured, the top frame of the structure is completed with a profile of the same size. The entire structure is further strengthened by jumpers made of square pipe with a size of 4x6 cm. The number of elements will depend on the height of the garage and the number of sheets that will be used to construct the structure. The next stage is the assembly of roof trusses. It is better to paint each structural element on the ground, since later you will have to spend more time if you paint them in place. The trusses are lifted and welded to the top frame. The sheathing under the roof deck is installed on the trusses and the roof is laid.
The next step is to cover the garage walls with corrugated sheets. This is done by using special roofing screws or rivets. If the presence of windows is provided, then openings for them can be cut after the garage has been sheathed. But mortgages for windows in the garage must be provided in advance. Simultaneously with the sheathing, the roofing decking is laid. The last step is to install gates and doors, as well as wiring the electrical network throughout the garage. A similar garage design is described in the video below.
Summary
As you can see, a cheap building can be erected quite quickly and from materials that are available in almost every area. It is worth remembering that when constructing a garage structure from corrugated sheets, you can use the wall option. It has a lower cost than roofing, but when placed on the wall it is not inferior in strength. A strip foundation can be constructed for a cinder block structure. To do this, you will have to deepen it below the freezing level so that it maintains its integrity. Inside the room, a screed is subsequently poured, the thickness of which must be at least 5 cm in order to withstand the weight of a passenger car.
The car needs a well-maintained garage that ensures safety. Building a garage to store a vehicle is a serious task that requires careful preparation. Construction is not limited to obtaining a permit, developing a building design, and choosing building materials. It is important to figure out where to start construction, calculate the need, and know how to build a garage.
How to build a garage with your own hands
Construction involves the following stages:
- Development of a building project.
- Site selection.
Choosing a location for a garage - not an easy task
- Purchase of materials.
- Preparing the necessary tools.
- Site marking.
- Construction of the foundation.
- Construction of frame or walls (depending on design features).
- Gate installation.
- Arrangement of the roof of the building.
- Concreting the garage floor.
- Finishing.
- Ventilation device.
Let's dwell on the features of the work.
How to start building a car room correctly? Select the type of building, determine design features, dimensions and develop a plan. How quickly the walls will be erected and the roof installed will depend on careful consideration of the nuances. At the design stage, it is important to choose a design option:
- framed. Is simple design, which is sheathed with corrugated sheets, metal profiles, boards, sandwich panels or metal. It can be assembled in a limited time, does not require a foundation or significant expenses;
Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and/or the shape of the plot is such that the driveways take up too much space
- capital. A building made of concrete blocks or bricks may have a second floor, be equipped with a basement, or represent large garage for two cars. Represents a reliable structure on a foundation;
- underground. It is located below the base of the building, requires reliable waterproofing, installation of ventilation communications, and allows for rational use of the area.
It is important to choose the right location for the site. Please note the following points:
- the location should not impede movement when the gate is open;
- the distance to buildings should be more than 9 m;
- the distance from the windows of buildings should be more than 10 m;
- the location of the site on a slope will make it difficult to enter the garage;
- access roads must provide the possibility of free access.
Materials must be purchased in quantities that meet the project requirements. To build you will need:
- Concrete for pouring the foundation.
- Reinforcement cage to strengthen the foundation.
First you need to decide for what purposes the garage will be used.
- Material for walls.
- Metal profiles and wooden beams for frame, construction truss structure roofs.
- Ready-made gates or blanks for their manufacture.
- Wood for constructing formwork and roof sheathing.
- Fastening elements.
Attention! Depending on the design features, the list requires clarification.
To perform the work you will need tools and equipment:
- welding machine;
- concrete mixer;
- shovels, buckets;
- electric tool;
- building level, tape measure;
- hammer;
Site preparation involves marking and removing soil for the foundation.
The foundation for a garage without a pit can be anything, be it strip or pile-grillage
The options are different:
- tape Poured into a pit. A trench is prepared, a crushed stone cushion is formed, formwork is assembled, a reinforcement cage is installed, and the foundation is concreted. Inexpensive tape base provides stability on problematic soils;
- monolithic. Filled foundation is an expensive foundation option used on heaving soils. Guarantees the integrity of capital buildings. It is constructed by digging a pit, filling the pit with sand, laying waterproofing, reinforcing and pouring concrete;
- columnar. A reliable base in areas with soil prone to heaving. It is made by pouring concrete supports at intervals of 1.5–3 m. The design is calculated depending on the mass of the structure.
Attention! When we build a garage, it is necessary to carry out a soil study on the site, calculate the mass of the structure, and choose the right foundation design. Remember that the construction of walls begins after the concrete has hardened and acquired strength. Roofing material should be laid on the surface of the foundation to waterproof the walls.
When constructing a building, pay attention to the following points:
- Laying blocks starts from the corner.
- The blocks must be thoroughly coated with the solution.
- The blocks should be mixed when laying.
- Reinforcement is done in 3–4 rows.
- An armored belt along the contour of the walls is necessary to distribute the loads from the roof.
- The height of the walls should ensure comfortable movement around the garage and be 2.5–3 m.
Most often, the walls in the garage are made from building blocks.
Attention! Masonry based on bricks should be 1–1.5 times the thickness of the brick to ensure strength.
Various door design options are possible:
- swing;
- roller shutters;
- lift-and-swivel;
- sectional.
Attention! You should carefully consider the design of the gate, ensuring ease of entry, and first apply a primer to the metal surface. The embedded elements attached to the gates will ensure their fixation during laying.
The following types of roofs can be installed inexpensively:
- Single-pitched. A budget option roof designs that allow the use of any materials.
- Flat. The basis of the roof is the floor panels.
- Gable. Installed on rafters with sheathing.
The floor is poured onto a compacted base with a sand-cement pad 10 cm thick. Observe the following requirements:
- pour a screed 10–15 cm thick onto the waterproofing;
It’s easier to make a monolithic reinforced slab right away and not make the foundation first and then the floor
- provide a slope of 3–4 degrees towards the entrance;
- use reinforcement to strengthen the base;
- use concrete mortar grade M300.
Attention! Applied to concrete base The tiles will prevent the formation of dust and make it difficult for cracks to occur.
Finishing is carried out depending on available building materials and financial capabilities. It is important to ensure reliable protection walls from moisture penetration and create a marketable appearance of the building.
Attention! Installing supply and exhaust ventilation will help maintain a comfortable level of humidity.
Where to start building a garage
It is better to start building a garage with design. The developed project will allow you to avoid unexpected errors, since the document contains the necessary information:
- type of garage (individual or attached to a building);
- purpose and quantity Vehicle in room;
- dimensions;
- characteristics of the floor - roof design features, slope, area, construction nuances;
- base design - solid, strip or columnar;
- construction features and box material – concrete blocks, brick, wood, metal, corrugated sheet;
- diagram broken down into functional areas, including basement, inspection hole.
The interior arrangement of the garage, decoration of walls, floors, lighting, heating depends on the wishes of the owner
It is important to pay attention to the following points:
- results of soil studies necessary to determine the type of foundation - the nature of the soil, groundwater level, freezing depth;
- proximity of power supply lines and water supply networks, allowing for quick connection to the necessary utility lines;
- the location of the building on the site, the distance from the entrance gate to the territory, which determines the convenience of access;
- the volume of cost estimates for the construction of a building, allowing the implementation of the plans.
Attention! It is not necessary to order a project from a specialized organization. You can design it yourself or use a standard drawing.
Garage construction calculator - calculation of materials
Using an online calculator, it is easy to calculate the need for building materials, determine the total volume of the construction estimate. To construct a building, the program performs calculations based on the following data:
- overall dimensions;
- depth, width, type of foundation;
- wall material;
- entrance gate size;
- roof structures.
When developing a project, you can use two options: order technical documentation from specialists, or make a plan yourself
Guide a pre-designed project, it’s easy to independently calculate the amount of materials needed. To calculate, you need to determine:
- The length of the walls.
- Height of the garage space.
- Wall thickness.
- Dimensions of openings.
- Dimensions of the material used.
The independent calculation method does not cause difficulties:
- Calculate the amount of building material for the construction of one square meter of wall surface.
- Calculate the area of the walls excluding openings.
- Multiply the flow rate by the surface area.
- Multiply the result by a safety factor of 1.1.
Attention! Knowing the need roofing material per square meter of roof, having decided on the design, you can quickly calculate the consumption of building materials for the manufacture of the roof using the given method.
Obtaining permission to build a garage
According to current regulatory documents, a permanent garage refers to capital buildings, the owners of which pay taxes in accordance with the provisions of the law. Therefore, for construction, it is imperative to obtain an official document - a special construction permit.
What material to choose is your personal desire
The specified requirements apply to all types of structures intended for storing vehicles, which are located:
- in the territories of summer cottages;
- on the lands of garage cooperatives.
Attention! The list of documents to be submitted differs in different regions. It is important to clarify the procedure for processing documents in local authorities.
It is unlikely that the building erected on its site will be demolished, but it is quite possible that the question of paying a fine will arise. In any case, during the sale there will be a need to provide documents.
The procedure for preparing documents for the construction of a garage on the site
According to the registration procedure and general rules, the following documents are required to be submitted:
- application requesting permission for construction;
- documents confirming land ownership;
- a photocopy of the previously developed project;
- license of the company that carried out the design and developed the plan;
- an extract from the cadastre confirming the allocation of a plot of land and containing information about the location.
To begin, you must submit an application to your local architecture department
In some areas, the garage appears before the house. You can spend the night in a tent yourself, and put your car under the roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a garage with your own hands is not idle. We start with choosing a location.
Selecting a location
Choosing a location for a garage is not an easy task. I really want it to be convenient to use, but at the same time so that the construction does not spoil appearance plot. You immediately need to decide whether it will be free-standing or attached to a house or other building on the site.
- Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and/or the shape of the plot is such that the driveways take up too much space. In this case, it makes sense to move the building closer to the entrance gate, or make sure that the garage door opens directly to the street.
- Forming part of a building. This can be a house or a utility block, and the garage itself can be built along with the building, or added later. It is good if the house is built close to the border of the plot. It is attractive because there is no need to think about how to heat it and install additional communications.
When building it yourself, the garage is most often placed separately, since an extension to an existing house requires serious measures to strengthen the foundation, and this is definitely not cheap. It will be cheaper to build separately. Only when choosing a location, you need to keep in mind that the distance to the neighbor’s plot should be at least 1 m, and the entrance should be at least 10 meters from the neighbor’s windows. The distance to the nearest residential building is also standardized. It should be more than 9 meters if the house is made of non-combustible material and 15 meters if the house is fire hazardous.
The gate opens directly onto the street - one of the good options
Dimensions and designs
First you need to decide for what purposes the garage will be used. If this is only a parking place, the dimensions can be made back to back - add a meter in length and width to the dimensions of the car. This is enough for a parking space. If repair work will also be carried out in the garage, a lift or inspection hole, a bunch of equipment and spare parts will be needed, then the dimensions should be larger. It is advisable to leave at least a meter on the sides and the same amount in front. Half a meter is still enough at the back. If the garage is used as a workshop or as a club, the dimensions can be even larger. The only limitations are the available space and the construction budget.
With or without pit
The most important thing is to decide whether you will make a hole or not. How and what kind of foundation you will make depends on this. You can make a basement under the garage, and the hole will be the “entrance” or only part of the occupied space. The option is attractive, but expensive and requires large volumes of excavation work.
The second option is more economical: only a hole 1.8-2 meters deep and about 1 meter wide. The width is optimal, but the height depends on height and it is better to choose this parameter individually: the depth should be 15-20 cm greater than your height. The length of the pit is about 2 m. This is enough to inspect any passenger car.
It is even easier to implement a floor in a garage without a pit. Then it just fills in without any complications.
Garage foundation
The foundation for a garage without a pit can be anything, be it strip or pile-grillage. Another issue is that you will still have to fill the floor. And if so, then it’s easier to make a monolithic reinforced slab right away and not make the foundation first and then the floor.
Tape - monolithic and prefabricated
Pile or pile-grillage
An economical foundation, which for some reason is rarely used for garages. Pile in its pure form is not very suitable for a garage - the floor turns out to be raised above the ground, but if you make a drive in, you can use it. It and the pile-grillage with a low grillage are an excellent option for heaving soils (clay, loams with high level groundwater).
The pile is connected to the grillage - this is a pile-grillage foundation
When making a pile-grillage, a shallow foundation pit is dug around the perimeter in the form of a ribbon (about 40-50 cm deep). In it, wells are drilled in increments of 1.5-2 meters below the depth of soil freezing, and formwork is inserted into them ( plastic pipe or rolled roofing material). Three or four reinforcement bars with an outlet of 70 cm are placed inside the formwork and filled with concrete. Then they place the formwork on the tape and knit a reinforcement frame for the tape, connecting it with the outlets of the pile reinforcement. And it is also filled with concrete.
Monolithic slab
Suitable for any type of soil. Along the perimeter it is made larger than the size of the garage by at least 30 cm. The soil is removed by digging a pit 40-45 cm deep. The bottom is leveled and a layer of gravel is poured. Its thickness is about 20-25 cm. The gravel is compacted well, using a vibrating plate if possible.
Formwork is placed around the perimeter, reinforcement is placed on the compacted bedding in increments of 15-20 cm (lengthwise and crosswise, creating a cage). They usually use 10-14 mm in diameter, two tiers of reinforcement, the distance between which is about 20 cm. All this is filled with concrete grade M 250 - M 300.
What to make walls from
Most often, the walls in the garage are made of building blocks. This can be (foam block and gas block), or maybe with a filler made of slag or expanded clay. They are good because they themselves are warm and there are no problems with subsequent heating of the garage: a small stove is enough to heat the air to normal temperatures. True, with such a choice it is necessary exterior decoration. As a rule, it is made the same as on the house or as similar as possible.
The second popular technology for constructing garage walls is frame. The frame is made of a metal profile pipe or a wooden beam impregnated with fire retardants (flammability-reducing additives). The covering can be any - from sheet metal to siding (on metal), lining, imitation timber, plywood (moisture resistant) or OSB. Yes, some materials are flammable and cannot be called reliable, but if you need a cheap garage, for example for a summer house, and only as a temporary parking lot, then why not.
Gates
Garage gates can be swing, sliding, or lifting. Swing ones are the simplest and most familiar to everyone. If desired, they can be automated (as read).
Heating and insulation of the garage
If you plan to use a garage all year round, it is necessary to either immediately make the walls warm (from blocks with low thermal conductivity) or insulate those built using frame technology. Materials for insulation are standard: mineral wool, polystyrene (extruded or regular foam). There is also an option for non-flammable insulation, which in the case of a garage is simply an excellent option - low-density foam concrete. It can be placed between the frame posts. Non-flammable, inexpensive, holds heat well. The only bad thing is that you can’t hang anything on it, but there are frame posts, so you can mount them on them.
There are two types of heating in the garage: constant and periodic. Constant can be separate or part of the heating of the house. If you do it separately, it’s the same house system, only in a smaller volume. It turns out expensive and complicated: a separate boiler, which also needs to be maintained and monitored.
One of the options for organizing heating in the garage is to pull a branch from the house. But this is also not easy: a pipeline that requires good insulation, a large amount of earthwork to lay it, and preferably not just into the ground, but into the sewer.
Periodic heating - stoves such as potbelly stoves and their modifications. They can be heated with wood or any flammable rubbish, of which there is usually plenty available. But the most attractive idea is to make a stove during mining - there is plenty of fuel around, and for free (or almost). There are different designs, they are described in the article ““.
This type of heating is the easiest to organize: install a stove and a fireplace, but there is less comfort. Firstly, the heat is mostly near the stove, and secondly, you come into a cold garage and heat it until it starts to warm up...
Drawings and diagrams
Photo reports from construction
It is often difficult to understand the essence of technological processes from a verbal description, but drawings or photos help put everything in place. More questions arise about frame garages. They are the cheapest and can be built quickly. Below are some examples.
Wooden frame garage
The garage was built 4*6.5 m, with a gazebo 4*2 m. The lumber was delivered ahead of time, soaked in antiseptic and stacked in ventilated piles to dry.
The foundation is made of columnar. Using a hand drill, holes were made with a depth of 150 cm and a diameter of 35 cm. Ruberoid sleeves were placed in them, three rods of plastic reinforcement were inserted, and filled with concrete.
Two weeks later, when the concrete was almost ready, they began to install the walls. The bottom trim was assembled first. 150*100 mm timber was used. The harness was installed on three sides, the fourth remained open - there will be an entrance.
The problem was the connection with the plastic reinforcement. Not a particularly good idea: they drilled holes for it, but it’s not clear how to attach it further. We fixed the anchors into concrete (two per post), and filled the holes with reinforcement with epoxy. It is not clear whether they will help or not, but we hope they will at least somehow keep it going.
Next, racks were placed above each column (1.5 meter increments). They must be placed straight up, without deviations, otherwise the structure will be unstable and bursting loads will appear. We started from the corners. They put one out, fixed it with temporary jibs, then nailed it down and moved on to the next one. The rest were leveled according to the set angles, not forgetting to check the verticality (with a plumb line, since the level gives an error). They were fastened with nails and reinforced with metal mounting plates.
To prevent the free ends of the lower harness from moving apart, they were temporarily secured with a board.
After installing all the racks, the logs were attached below. They added rigidity, but it is needed, since we will climb up and fasten top harness.
We continue to assemble the garage frame
When all the beams are installed and assembled, we begin to assemble the rafter system. It was decided to make the roof sloping, and it would be temporary. Subsequently, the garage will be adjacent to the house (this is the first building on the site).
Having collected the required number of trusses, they were installed on the upper harness. They fixed them with pieces of boards to the posts on both sides, then hammered them in with nails and reinforced them with corners on self-tapping screws.
The rafters also need to be placed straight up, otherwise the roof will slide away in winter. Because it’s worth checking often: before scoring, and after….
After everything was installed and secured, the sheathing was laid. A 40*150 mm board was used on it, laid with a gap of 40 cm.
Corrugated sheeting was placed on the sheathing.
We started making the gate fastening area. We installed a beam at the top and sides.
The gates will be up and down. A frame is being welded inside underneath them, along which they will drive off. A gate frame is welded from a 25*50 mm profile pipe according to the dimensions of the opening (with a small gap).
The sheets must be fastened with a gap of about 10 mm. For humidity-temperature expansion.
There is still a lot of work, but basically everything is ready. Crushed stone was poured inside until the floor was poured, but you can now park the car, as well as drink tea in the gazebo))
DIY garage on a strip foundation
Garage for two cars (separate boxes) unheated. Built on sandy soil with a low location of groundwater. Because the foundation is shallow. They dug a trench around the perimeter, laid out the formwork, and tied up the reinforcement frame. Everything is as usual. Filled with concrete.
The excess soil was removed from inside the tape and the foundation pit was leveled. The bottom was covered and covered with sand. It was spilled and compacted (with a vibrating plate).
Compacted sand
A plastic film was laid on top (for waterproofing), laid metal mesh and filled with M300 concrete.
The height of the screed is 10 cm. It was left to set for 2 weeks. Then they began to install the frame. The frame itself and the rafter system were made from 50*150 mm boards, the spacers and jibs were made from 100*25 mm.
Additional boards were placed in the corners for reinforcement. The pillars at the fastening points of doors and windows have also been strengthened. Installation step! walks” - the sizes are small, but it’s necessary door block, then install a window. I divided the rest as best I could, but didn’t make it more than 60 cm.
The rafter system was immediately assembled. Since the supporting beams ran in the middle, the rafter legs rested on them. They were placed at a distance of about 50 cm. Metal mounting plates and corners were used for reinforcement at the fastening points. They were mounted on self-tapping screws and the frame elements were connected with a long nail.
A windproof membrane is stuffed on top of the frame. There is a sheathing made of inch boards on it, the sheathing pitch is about 50 cm.
After filling the membrane and sheathing, installation of the outer cladding of the garage began. This is a metal profile for the walls and ondulin for the roof. There are no difficulties. Cut to size and attach with self-tapping screws.
Having spread the membrane on the roof (start from the bottom, glue the joints) and nailed the sheathing, we install the ondulin. It must be placed from below, moving upward.
It takes longer to tinker with the overhangs. They were covered with perforated siding (remnants from the construction of the house). Installed wind board made of dry wood 145*20 mm, painted White color.
Wooden windows installed, painted white and cheap chinese door, which will then be replaced and placed in the barn. Corners are trimmed wooden board 145*20 mm, painted to match the roofing material.
Almost the result: more gates and insulation
The entrance was prepared: on one side, when pouring the foundation, an extended tape was poured (the height difference is greater). On the other side they supported it with a board. They filled it with screenings and compacted it. Entry is ready.
Roller shutters were installed last. At first, lift-and-turn doors were planned, but the price for them became unmerciful, so a cheaper option was installed.
Let's take a closer look at building a garage with your own hands: which foundation, walls and roof to choose.
We will try to consider as much as possible the pros and cons of various materials and approaches to construction.
It is better to entrust the choice of foundation and its calculation to specialists. If this is not possible, you need to focus on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil. The strength of the soil can be roughly assessed by digging a hole at the construction site. It would be a good idea to talk to your neighboring developers.
Helpful information:
On solid soils, the best solution would be to use strip foundations for garages with brick walls and columnar foundations for wooden buildings. In flooded areas and peat bogs, a monolithic slab or screw piles are suitable. If the depth of soil freezing is more than two meters, the use of shallow foundations will provide significant savings. Consider all factors and your garage will last for many years.
Foundation for a garage
The foundation is the base of the garage, from the right choice its design depends on the reliability and service life of the entire structure. The type of foundation should be selected taking into account the weight of the wall materials and the characteristics of the soil at the construction site.
Monolithic strip foundation
Construction of a monolithic strip foundation performed in the following sequence:
- They dig a trench with a depth of 5 cm greater than the height of the underground part of the base.
- Layers of sand and crushed stone 5 cm thick are laid at the bottom of the trench, and the sand-crushed stone cushion is carefully compacted.
- The formwork is being placed. The formwork serves to remove the cement laitance from concrete mixture did not soak into the soil. On clay soils that do not allow water to pass through, installation of formwork is not necessary. A trench is dug along the width of the foundation and its walls serve as formwork.
- If necessary, tie the reinforcement.
- Concrete is laid in layers of 30 cm, each layer is compacted with a tamper or vibrator.
- After the foundation hardens for 28 days, two layers of roofing felt waterproofing are laid on top of it and the construction of walls begins.
When constructing a rubble base, stones are laid in layers of 30 cm on a sand-crushed stone bed and filled with cement-sand mortar.
Strip base made of foundation blocks
The use of foundation blocks greatly facilitates construction. The disadvantage is the need to use a crane. For the foundation for the garage, FBS-9-Z-6t blocks measuring 88x30x58 cm weighing 350 kg and FBS-9-4-6t blocks measuring 88x40x58 cm weighing 470 kg are used.
The bottom row of blocks is installed on sand cushion. Vertical joints are filled with cement-sand mortar. A layer of mortar is applied to the upper surface of the blocks and the next row is laid overlapping the joints. If the height of the foundation is not a multiple of the height of the block, it is increased to the required level with a layer of concrete.
On subsidence and undermined soils, block foundations are reinforced with monolithic reinforced concrete belts located in the upper and lower parts of the foundation.
Slab foundation
The slab foundation is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, on the edges of which the walls rest. It is used on soft soils and when groundwater is located close to the surface. The advantage of using the slab is the small volume of excavation work, the disadvantages are the impossibility of constructing an inspection pit and basement and the increased consumption of reinforcement.
Construction is carried out in the following sequence:
- remove the fertile layer of soil;
- lay and compact the sand cushion;
- a layer of film waterproofing is laid on the sand;
- formwork is installed around the perimeter of the garage;
- two reinforcement meshes are mounted one above the other;
- lay and compact concrete;
- The side surfaces of the slab are insulated with foam plastic.
For a garage, it is enough to make a slab 10 - 20 cm thick. The mesh cell dimensions are 20x20 cm, the diameter of the reinforcement is 12 mm. In case of severe frost heaving and in the conditions of the Far North, the lower surface of the slab is insulated.
Columnar foundation
Columnar bases are used for garages with light wooden, frame or foam concrete walls. They are carried out to the depth of soil freezing or shallowly buried. The materials used to make pillars are concrete and concrete blocks, steel and asbestos-cement pipes. Concrete pillars are most often used.
The work is performed in the following order:
- they dig holes under the pillars;
- sand cushions are arranged at their bottom;
- if necessary, tie the reinforcement;
- assemble formwork;
- foundations are poured with concrete;
- after the concrete has gained strength, two layers of waterproofing are laid on the upper surface of the base;
- the pillars are connected by beams that serve as the base for the walls.
The beam can be wooden, metal or reinforced concrete. The cross-section of the pillars and the width of the beam are chosen 10 cm larger than the thickness of the walls. The pillars are installed in the corners of the garage, at the junction of the walls and 1.5 - 3 m between them.
Screw piles
A screw pile is made from a metal pipe, one end of which is pointed, the other is equipped with a flange. Near the pointed end, blades are welded to the pipe. The piles are coated with an anti-corrosion compound, ensuring a service life of more than 140 years. Advantages screw piles is:
- the possibility of construction on any soil (except for rocky and rocky soils), while the groundwater level does not matter;
- resistance to frost heaving of soil;
- savings of 30 - 60% compared to a strip base;
- minimum amount of excavation work;
- reduction of construction time.
For garages with light walls, piles with a diameter of 108 mm can be used, for garages with heavy walls - 133 mm. Piles are produced in lengths from 1650 to 7000 mm. The length is chosen so that the blades rest on strong rocks and are located below the freezing depth of the soil.
When installing piles, they first dig pits about 40 cm deep. A pile is inserted into the pit and rotated clockwise using a special device. IN winter time leader wells are pre-drilled. After all the piles are installed, they are connected by beams.
Garage walls
Foam concrete garage
First, it’s worth understanding what foam concrete is? Foam concrete is concrete with bubbles inside. It would be more correct to say, not just concrete, but cellular concrete. It is created from four components: a solution, a mixture of sand, water and a foam-forming component.
The material is light, strong and at the same time has good heat-retaining properties. The block size is 20*30*60 cm. That is, one block is equal, in volume, to fifteen bricks. Cost about 100 rubles. for 1 foam block
What is the advantage of building a garage from foam blocks?
The main advantages that can be highlighted:
- Speed of construction, relative to the brick walls of the garage. Foam blocks are easy to saw and sand.
- Light weight. The possibility of erecting walls with one hand, i.e. on one's own.
- The cost of wall material is much cheaper than brick or other traditional materials.
- Resistant to mold and not rotting.
- Difficulty in finishing, requires special fastening material.
How to build a garage wall from foam blocks?
Installation of foam blocks is quite simple. We dilute special glue. It is sold in bags of 10 or 25 kg. We dilute according to the manufacturer's instructions, but as a rule, it is about 5-6 liters per 25 kg of dry mixture. The thickness of the glue layer is up to 5 mm, but with high-quality material you can achieve a seam within 2-3 mm.
We place the foam block on the foundation, coat the “bottom and side” and place the next block along the pre-tensioned guide thread. Cutting a block is easy; you need to take a regular hacksaw, although a special device is used for the guide - a metal corner. To apply glue, you can also purchase a special “spatula”. The entrance partition, where the future gate will be installed, is reinforced with timber or double boards. You need to do the same with windows, if you have them in your project.
Frame garage
Construction technology frame walls came to us relatively recently from the West. But Russian masters have already mastered it completely and appreciated it. To build walls, you will need the following materials: timber 100*200 or 200*200 for the bottom frame of the foundation. Board 150*50 for the wall frame and top trim. Board 100*50 for jibs. Batten of your choice, but not less than 40 mm thick.
The advantages of such construction:
- Fast installation. If all the materials are available, the walls can be erected in 2-3 days alone.
- Low cost. Savings on construction. Enough cubic meter boards 150*50 for installing the frame.
- At low costs for insulation, freezing of the “pie” of walls.
- Not very strong, you should choose a lighter roof.
How to build a frame garage with your own hands?
First, the “bottom” is assembled, that is, we make the bottom trim and fill the floor. Next, we assemble the walls and lift them with the help of helpers or a winch/lever system. Align and perform the top trim. We cut in the jibs. Next we wrap the outside vapor barrier material type “isospan” and beat the outside to taste. This can be OSB, plywood, boards for further upholstery with siding. Inside, we place insulation, mineral wool or foam plastic between the boards, and also wrap it with vapor barrier material. The walls are ready for interior decoration garage.
This type of construction is the longest and most expensive, but capital and durable. The walls of the garage are usually built one and a half bricks long. That is, the thickness of the wall will be equal to the length of the brick plus another half. You can, of course, build it with one brick. Suitable for a garage. Quite a lot of cement mortar will be required. For 400 bricks - 1 m3, you will need from 0.18 to 0.22 m3 of mortar. You will also need iron for a reinforcing belt, which must be built horizontally into the masonry every 5-10 rows.
- High strength
- High heat resistance
- Various exterior and interior finishing options are available.
- Durable, does not rot
- High cost of construction
- Very long construction
- Masonry skills required
A cinder block is a block consisting of cement, water and slag. The slag can include screenings from the production of concrete, sawdust, etc. The blocks are cast in a mold, pressed and then dried. The main advantage of cinder block is cost. Such blocks are at least 1.5-2 times cheaper than foam or gas silicate blocks. But in terms of heat loss, cinder blocks can compare with them.
- Low cost of materials. Cheap blocks are laid with glue.
- Good heat resistance.
- Speed of construction.
- Fear of moisture.
- Release of harmful and radioactive substances. Not suitable for residential premises.
- Fragility.
- Insufficient durability up to 25-30 years.
Sawdust cinder block option - .
Garage roof
A garage is a second home for a car enthusiast. We can spend a lot of time here, so it is important that your beloved car is stored in a warm, dry and comfortable room. Its condition will largely depend on the quality of the roof. There are many roofing materials on the market. Their choice depends on the structural features of the garage and the financial capabilities of the owner. Slate, metal, and tiles are used for roofing, but, most often, the roof is made of roofing material and corrugated sheets.
Roof made of roofing felt
This material is often used for garage roofing because it is affordable and practical and has good waterproofing properties. It is resistant to temperature changes, sunlight and precipitation. The coating does not require complex maintenance, and roof repairs usually do not pose any difficulties. To make roofing felt, roofing cardboard treated with special bitumen is used, which is then coated with a refractory compound.
When covering a roof with roofing felt, you need to make a reliable rafter system and sheathing with frequent spacing. To prevent the roofing material from tearing, it is better to make the sheathing continuous, using plywood sheets or OSB. This increases the cost of the roof and the power of the rafter system, but allows you not to worry about the roof in winter when ice and snow appear.
Types of roofing felt and rules for its installation
Before starting roofing work, the roof surface must be thoroughly cleaned of old flooring. Laying is carried out only in dry weather, otherwise there will be no sealing on the wet surface, and rot may form under the roofing felt. Today, three types of roofing felt are used for roofing:
Traditional
Before laying, the roofing material must be rolled out and left for a day. After cleaning and leveling, mastic made from bitumen and filler is applied to the roof with a brush or roller. Laying is done using a burner, heating sheets of roofing material and mastic, and then rolling with a roller. Lay the roofing material in several layers (at least two) parallel to the ridge, starting from the bottom and leaving 20 cm as a margin. This part is then wrapped under the visor. The first layer of roofing felt without crumbs. Each subsequent layer is laid with a shift of 20 cm after the previous one has completely cooled. The top layer should have stone chips.
Self-adhesive
This is a new generation of roofing felts that do not need to be laid gas burner. The self-adhesive lower surface of the roofing material is protected with a special film. Before laying, carefully remove the film without waiting for the bottom layer to dry. Ruberoid is laid on the roof and pressed tightly against the roof. Lay the covering with an overlap of up to 15 cm, avoiding air bubbles.
Euroroofing material
It differs from traditional coatings in improved physical characteristics - increased strength, ductility, resistance to aging and temperature changes. The top layer of the material is covered with basalt or granite chips, and the bottom layer is covered with a special anti-adhesive film. It protects the roll from gluing, and when heated it serves as an indicator. When the film melts, it indicates that the euroroofing material is warm enough for installation.
Corrugated roof
Corrugated sheets are profiled steel sheets coated with layers of galvanized steel and protective polymers. The profile gives the sheets the necessary lateral rigidity and comes in different heights and configurations. For roofing, profiled sheets marked NS or N with a profile height of 20 cm or more are used.
Hot-dip galvanizing and coating of profiled metal with paint and varnish polymer compounds protects the metal from corrosion and damage, and a wide range of polymer colors ensures visual appeal.
Among the advantages of corrugated roofing, the following qualities should be highlighted:
- relatively low cost not only of the material itself, but also of installation work;
- strength and rigidity of a corrugated roof, resistance to any weather conditions;
- low weight of profiled sheets and, as a result, ease and speed of installation;
- durability of the material, resistance to sunlight, the polymer layer does not become chipped and cracked over time;
- safety and environmental friendliness, fire-resistant properties;
- external attractiveness.
Due to the light weight of the material, laying sheets of corrugated sheets on the garage roof makes it easier to design the rafter system. Roofing from corrugated sheets can be installed year-round; the sheets can be easily cut at any angle, leaving virtually no unnecessary waste. Its disadvantages include the need to use special equipment during installation and relatively expensive roof maintenance.
The sheets of corrugated sheets are laid overlapping on two waves, fixing them with special roofing screws with rubber gaskets. Unlike slate, self-tapping screws are always screwed into the sheathing into the recess of the wave, which is much easier to do. The horizontal overlap of adjacent sheets of corrugated sheets depends on the angle of inclination of the garage roof. It is:
- with a roof slope angle of 13-14° - at least 200 mm;
- with a tilt of 15°-30° - 150-200 mm;
- if the roof slope is more than 30°, the overlap can be 100-150 mm.
When the roof slope angle is less than 12°, all horizontal and vertical overlaps of corrugated sheets must be sealed using silicone sealant. The profiled sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws measuring 4.8x35 mm, and the ridge is fastened with self-tapping screws, the length of which is 80 mm. When installing a roof made of corrugated sheets, it is imperative to make vapor and waterproofing of the roof, and also to provide gaps that will ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.
Roof waterproofing
The roof is the structural element of the building that should protect the contents of the garage from external influences. To guarantee its integrity and durability, many factors are important, including: To fully perform its functions, roof waterproofing must have a number of properties, such as:
- Moisture resistant. The material should retain water and water vapor well and prevent the formation of fungi and mold in the under-roof space.
- Elasticity. The waterproofing layer must be resistant to elastic deformation. Even under minor loads, lack of elasticity can lead to destruction of the material.
- Thermal resistance. This property prevents cold air from entering the garage through the roof and helps maintain a certain temperature in the building.
- Strength. The waterproofing layer must resist deformation processes and withstand various external loads.
Experts offer two optimal options for waterproofing roofs in garages.
Membrane systems for roofs
This is a waterproofing material 1-2 mm thick, which consists of several layers hermetically glued together. The length of the fabric reaches 60 m, the width is from 0.9 m. The membrane fabric is resistant to UV rays, is not afraid of temperature changes, and its natural aging period is less than 50 years. The diffusion properties of polymer membrane waterproofing prevent the accumulation of moisture under the sheet and help solve two main problems: not letting moisture in from the outside and preventing the accumulation of steam inside the garage.
The membrane sheet is mechanically fixed to the base of the roof. Special equipment Using hot air, the seams are heated and the overlapping fabrics are tightly welded. The material on the base of the roof is laid loosely to ensure good ventilation. When insulating the roof, a separating layer of geotextile and basalt insulation is laid as thermal insulation.
Polymer waterproofing mastics
For waterproofing garage roofs small sizes They use polymer liquid mastic compositions, which are applied directly to the roof with a special sprayer, brush or roller. Mastic can be used to cover any structure, regardless of the base material and its shape, for example, metal, reinforced concrete or wooden roofs.
Mastic waterproofing perfectly resists the rays of the sun and any weather conditions, including frost. At the same time, the film retains its elasticity, does not deform or melt, is not afraid of vibration and chemical substances. After applying the mastic, vulcanization occurs and a rubber-like coating is formed that fills all cracks in hard-to-reach places.
Rafter system
For a garage, it is quite enough to erect a lean-to or gable roof. The rafter systems of such roofs are made of coniferous wood.
Shed roof they are made without a ridge, struts and racks for buildings with spans of 6-8 m. It is considered the most convenient rafter system for garages, extensions, etc. Installation is quite simple: a rafter system with supports is constructed, which is fastened on top with a sheathing located perpendicular to the rafters. The reliability of the entire roof depends on the strength of the resulting frame.
They make a gable roof when they want to have it attic space or with a large garage area. The frame of such a roof consists of several pairs of rafter legs connected at the top point into a ridge. The lower supports of the rafters are the walls of the garage on which the Mauerlat is installed. Slings are attached to it with anchors or other devices.
Rafter systems pitched roofs divided into layered and hanging. Their frames consist of triangular-shaped elements, which allows them to maintain rigidity. In the first case, the structure has several points of rigid attachment with racks resting on an additional main wall or columnar supports. Hanging systems do not have intermediate supports and cover spans of more than 7 m. The only support point for the rafters is the garage wall. The second end of the rafter beam docks at the top of the roof with the counter rafter.
The construction of any garage ends with a roof, which should provide comfortable conditions inside the building. Your task, using your accumulated experience, is to choose the best roofing option for your building, to build a strong and stable roof that will protect from rain and wind, retain heat and be impermeable to dampness.
Consider wooden rafter systems, which are suitable for installing a roof for a garage whose walls are made of foam concrete, using frame technology, cinder block, brick walls. Wooden rafters lightweight, but at the same time strong enough to withstand the load of snow and winds. By type, garage rafter systems can be divided into single-pitched - the slope is in one direction, as a rule, the front side is higher than the back side. And gable - that is, sloped in both directions from the middle. It’s easier, of course, to install a pitched roof, but the appearance will be ordinary without beauty. Although, this is not an acquired taste.
Shed garage roof
We will need boards, perfect edged board 150x50 for rafters and a 100x25 board, also known as an “inch”, for installing the sheathing.
The angle of inclination of a shed roof for a garage will vary depending on the material with which the roof will be covered. For example, for metal tiles this figure is 25-30 degrees, and for slate 35-40. If you make a “simple” roof from roofing felt or, as they also say, cover the roof with roofing felt, then the slope needs to be at least 40 degrees and the sheathing must be continuous.
The assembly procedure is as follows: we make a rise from a board or timber, lay 150x50 boards along the entire garage at a distance of 50-100 cm. Then we cover it with a vapor barrier film on a stapler and on top perpendicular to the rafters, stuff the sheathing at least at intervals of 10-20 cm.
Gable roof garage
We will need 150x50 mm boards for the rafters. It is worth deciding on the angle of the roof. Much depends on weather and climatic conditions. If there is a lot of wind, then an angle of 15-20 degrees will be optimal. If it is rainy and snowy, then you should slightly increase the angle to 25-30 degrees. So, we have decided on the angle of the roof. Next, let's start making the rafters. We cut them at the chosen angle and fasten them in the ridge. We fix it with plates on both sides. Next, we make cuts for stability and place them on the top trim.
The number of rafters for a 5-meter garage must be calculated based on a distance of 600-1200 mm. It all depends on the chosen roofing material and its severity. Next, we cover it with wind protection and begin to nail down the sheathing. If the roof is planned to be covered with roofing material, the sheathing must be continuous. This can be OSB or plywood sheets.
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