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DIY bathroom renovation: bathroom renovation ideas and work process. Budget bathroom renovation Economical DIY bathroom renovation

DIY bathroom renovation: bathroom renovation ideas and work process. Budget bathroom renovation Economical DIY bathroom renovation

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom yourself? This is not surprising, since carrying out the entire repair process yourself will be much cheaper. On average, the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in carrying out repairs, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to turn to specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about renovating a bathroom with your own hands, including photos, and then finally make your decision. In it we will dwell in some detail on the production of actions in their chronological order, indicating materials and approximate cost costs for necessary materials.

To renovate your bathroom yourself, you will need the following:

  • Choose plumbing fixtures, decide on their quantity and nomenclature;
  • Develop a bathroom design and choose the colors you need:
  • Calculate and purchase the necessary finishing materials;
  • Prepare the room where repairs will be carried out;
  • Assess the current condition of the bathroom floor. Decide on the method of repairing it and purchase materials for the work;
  • Repair the floor. This item will include:
  • its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
  • replacing the screed, a layer is raised under the screed, created to level the floor, and on which the floor covering is usually installed.
  • floor insulation;
  • Pipeline laying;
  • Working with electrical wiring;
  • Plastering the ceiling and walls;
  • Wall cladding, grouting and corner sealing work;
  • Flooring;
  • Installation ventilation system.
  • Installation of your chosen plumbing fixtures.

The time you will spend on renovating the bathroom with your own hands starts from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly through the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing fixtures

It’s difficult to talk about specific advice here, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. Let us just mention that when renovating, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the issue of preparing the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Project stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing fixtures, since it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. So, the characteristics of the washbasin depend on the shape tile covering walls It will be impossible to provide all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are decorated with the same materials from the same supplier, so the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. In an ordinary house, it makes no sense to think about a faucet built into the wall, since this possibility is built in during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use common industrial wood or plain steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in places with high humidity does not justify itself. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment has limited space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think about it and choose a design that you like.

Estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for a bathroom renovation with your own hands. There are a number of parameters that are of significant importance, but which are quite difficult to understand without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a wide range of temperature conditions and high humidity, which affects both the strength of the materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, it would be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

You most likely will not find some parameters in the material description, so you should select materials directly intended for use in the bathroom. Materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

  • Price for tiles will range from 40 to 60 rubles per piece, depending on the country of origin. On average, the quality of tiles from domestic and European manufacturers does not differ from each other, but European samples usually have a better design. The situation is the same for floor and wall tiles, the only difference is in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles per piece, however, it is recommended to use them for flooring. Unlike conventional ceramic tiles, they have a non-slip surface and greater durability. Considering the rather high traumatic rate of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store you should pay attention to the condition of the tile surface. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of dirt that cannot be cleaned. To ensure the integrity of the tile you choose, hold it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the size ratio. If the tiles are different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to waste time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take several pairs and place the edges next to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be smooth.
  • Tile adhesive. Considering that the work of installing the tiles will be carried out by you yourself - best choice The glue will dry slowly, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the packaging. If for some reason the packaging does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself well, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a trowel with large teeth will likely cause cavities to appear under the tiles.
  • Templates for laying tiles. It is best to use plastic crosses because they are easier to work with.
  • Grout for tiles. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting joints.
  • Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
  • Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
  • Self-leveling floor. For a bathroom, it is preferable to use two components; this is an initial viscous pour, then a liquid one for leveling. Approximate price from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with insulation effect - from 640 rubles per square meter.
  • Teak or larch floor. If you decide to have a wood floor rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels nicer. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
  • Pipes. The best option are polypropylene pipes: for cold water (PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot water (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that working with steel pipes is difficult; metal-plastic tends to leak in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes start from 45 rubles. We will also include fittings in this category. Fittings made from solid plastic are most preferred, as this will avoid possible leaks. Switching to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to a boiler. The shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. Please measure when purchasing O.D. pipes with a caliper. To work with pipes, diamond drills are required; if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
  • PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles per 5-liter package.
  • Plumbing. It all depends only on your choice, let’s just say don’t skimp on quality - plumbing fixtures should serve for a long time and conscientiously. When considering options for a heated towel rail, it is recommended to take a heated towel rail from stainless steel. Other options are either of unsuitable quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider purchasing one with an infrared sensor that automatically turns on the water when you raise your hands to a preset temperature setting. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to reduce your water costs by half and heating energy costs by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on current market value. Nevertheless, you will be able to somehow navigate these prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the renovation of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need everything listed directly when performing the work; some of the presented options are alternatives; their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

Let us repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials; their use will only complicate the work. When purchasing materials, take into account possible defects and errors in calculations: there is almost always a need for some reserve. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials add 35-40%.

Now let's get down to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. Cast iron bath can be updated with acrylic or epoxy compound. Installing a new cast iron bathtub will not provide any advantage in quality and service life, and dismantling it and installing a new bathtub is quite labor-intensive. For a tin bath, in the absence of chipped enamel or other serious damage, you can use acrylic liner. If the tin bathtub is in poor condition, do not hesitate and choose a new one. To renovate your bathroom, you don't need any special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity; the latter is cheaper, but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert yourself - it is manufactured at the factory, where you will have to order it, but the installation technology is as follows:

  • thoroughly clean and degrease the bathtub;
  • insert the liner and check that the drain holes are aligned correctly;
  • double check and apply glue to the inside of the tub.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water line from the flush tank. If you are not going to move out during the renovation, then it makes sense to supply water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, just remember to turn off the water when you are away or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to go without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Start dismantling everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. Sewage system At this stage, do not touch it yet; plug the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power to the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the bathroom surfaces. This part of the work involves debris and dust; work with glasses, a respirator, and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with the door closed or film in the opening.

The work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles, use a hammer drill with a concrete chisel. If cement mortar was used to secure it, you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working on the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then a hammer drill when cleaning the cement substrate can damage it, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there are reasons to preserve the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and reduce costs major renovation floors

For the top layer of plaster and old paint, use a drill with an 80-100 mm round metal brush. In old houses, the plaster is often weak and must be removed down to the base, be it brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. There will be more work, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it may even collapse. Take care of the supports.

Cleaning completed old tiles removed. Time to clean the floors. After wet cleaning, you can begin to inspect the installed screed. The presence of even one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the bathroom floor. Of course, if the damage is minor, then this can be avoided by using a layer of self-leveling floor. But more on that a little later. First of all, consider the need to remove old screed and start waterproofing the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: this is aquaizol or its polyester analogue. Conventional film for the bathroom is not applicable, moisture will seep in one way or another, but aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should extend at least a quarter of a meter (25 cm) onto the wall, based on its weight. 4000 liters of water per 10 square meters is the maximum strength of the ceiling. The folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued together with mastic or welded using an industrial hair dryer. Practice before doing this kind of welding, it’s not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed to installing a new screed. When assessing possible costs, it was already mentioned required material. This is a glass magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to install without delay reinforcing mesh and place beacons. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage; the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. For screed there are special requirements for cement mortar:

  • grade of cement from 400; the sand must be quartz;
  • sand and cement relate to each other in a ratio of 4:1;
  • the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
  • You need to add PVA emulsion to the water in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The screed is formed along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. A tile floor requires a level base surface for its flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with the sewer pipes, as sealants with sealant will assemble it quite quickly, one day is enough. Welded joints are not made on sewer pipes. After this, you can begin soldering the water pipes with peace of mind.

How to lay them? It’s not worth doing it in an open form, it will bring aesthetic pleasure to few people, making grooves, if you are not familiar with the concept, is a groove in the wall, laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, fittings cannot be used violate, and she herself will not allow the ditch to be made. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, using silicone, glue it onto the completed slope. facing tiles to match the color to the future look of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be done after the work is completed. If necessary, the silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. At standard layout bathroom, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without grooves, but this is only for vertically installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and there may be a couple more if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The pipes in the grooves should be foamed, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. The installation process of polypropylene pipes is very simple, the main advantage is that within thirty minutes from the end of welding the last connection, you can use your pipeline system. uh

Remember, butt joints between pipes are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

To weld joints you will need: a machine for socket welding of polypropylene pipes; nozzles for the pipes used; pipe cutter; Shaver, chamfer. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It should be laid with a corrugated wire in double insulation. The most commonly used is plastic, its price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall using construction tape; as already mentioned, you cannot cut it. The bathroom is a cramped space, so when applying plaster we recommend using half a rubber ball rather than a trowel. It can be used for any type of work with alabaster, gypsum or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work this way.

The plastering itself must necessarily be carried out along the beacons - for subsequent wall cladding a flat surface is required. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get at any hardware store. Making beacons yourself is not worth it, you will only waste time and will hardly be able to achieve a smooth surface. The plastering sequence is usual, from the floor to the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its changes in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to maintain temperature conditions, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation deposition is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet; unlike the floor, the LSU will be bonded to the surface of the ceiling with silicone or assembly adhesive. While working, use slats as supports, about 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them before the glue dries.

Having finished with insulation, we move on to adding gloss, although this gloss has a functional meaning as condensation. A good option is a material such as plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant glue, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not lead to collapse - since the boards are connected to each other, forming a single integral structure. After completing the ceiling work, you will begin cladding the walls. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

  1. processing the reverse side of the PVA material with emulsion;
  2. The installation itself is carried out using mounting adhesive or construction silicone;
  3. the ridge of the tongue, which refers to the protrusions by which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such connection itself, a thin layer of glue is applied, its drips must be removed immediately.

Suitable for silicone table vinegar, for solvent glue. Please note - the last two laminate boards should be laid together, fold them like a house and insert, pressing on the joint until it snaps into place. Don't forget about supports until the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under the ceiling sheathing. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. Once you've finished covering the ceiling, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options. But making suspended ceilings yourself is often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do this, please read the selection criteria. It is also possible slatted ceiling– is also a very common option, but its production is the topic of a separate article.

Tiles are usually used for wall cladding. Porcelain tiles have similar properties, but are more expensive; the advantages that were mentioned when choosing tiles for the floor do not matter for walls. Covering bathroom walls with plastic panels is becoming common; it is quite cheap and meets hygiene rules, but in this article we will not consider how to work with such material.

When laying tiles on walls, the joints must be cut. To do this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles using glue and immediately removed as described above. The adhesive is applied using longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. The presence of voids under the tiles is unacceptable, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you lay should be tapped next to it with a rubber hammer from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will go to the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond core bit. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin polyethylene film is applied to the silicone, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove any silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can be covered with decorative overlay due to the same silicone. On a plane, seams are cut using a special compound, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is not necessary in this procedure - the drips are removed. Do not use your finger to cut seams; visible to the eye uneven areas where dirt tends to accumulate. The technology for laying wall and floor tiles does not differ in itself, but small features for gender will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown with a larger diameter than the pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

There are two tile options for the floor - the reasons why porcelain tiles are better than tiles or wooden floors have already been explained.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will be more expensive, but the result will be more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove; the installation procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving a distance of 2-2.5 centimeters from the wall. This space is designed for swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities; fill the gaps with polystyrene foam before installing the baseboard. A wooden floor coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish will last a very long time.

Regarding tiles, installation should be done from the door so that the cut tiles are located under the slope or bathtub, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has hardened under the other slabs, so as not to disturb the work already done. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles are adjusted to each other.

First of all, inspect the box that was removed in preparation for the repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It will be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows into winter time. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system; this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment and prevent fungus from appearing on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often with new products you can even find instructions on the sequence of actions for installing it. Your actions include installing a bathtub (you won’t be able to do it yourself without an assistant) or a shower stall, as well as a sink. Then come the faucets, then the water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

It is permissible to install such stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom as exhaust fan, the cord must be three-core, have a protective conductor and a Euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and ceiling lamp, requiring waterproof performance. Washing machine– a topic for a separate discussion, since it does not apply to stationary devices.

All the necessary steps for doing a DIY bathroom renovation were discussed. Watch the video where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and approximately twice the labor intensity than for the renovation of two separate rooms; this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is labor-intensive, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this labor-intensive and rather lengthy procedure to specialists. They know exactly how to do everything right. But you should still familiarize yourself with all aspects of a bathroom renovation for a better chance of completing the entire renovation procedure successfully and without complications.

At the very least, after reading this article, you will be able to monitor the work of the performers who you decide to entrust with bathroom renovations. On the other hand, if you are confident of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be reduced significantly. For more successful DIY bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.

It’s not for nothing that people have a proverb: “Cheap fish means bad fish.” You and I need to find golden mean so that the renovation in the bathroom turns out great, and you have to pay a minimum for it. This article will look at budget-friendly and at the same time successful options for renovating a small bathroom.

Before we begin finishing the walls and floor, we need to find out what condition the bathroom is in. Do I need to level the walls? Should I leave the floor in the same condition or should I correct it a little? What is the condition of the ceiling? Having assessed the premises, we draw up a specific work plan and begin its phased implementation.

An economical option for finishing bathroom walls

Don't forget that we are very limited in space. This is not a royal mansion, but a compact room that was built in the era of Nikita Khrushchev or even earlier. This means that for finishing the walls we will choose methods that, to a minimum, “steal” the already modest space in the room.

  • Tip 1. It is better to cover the walls in the bathroom with plaster than to cover them with some kind of plasterboard.
  • Tip 2. What to choose: tiles or wall panels? Of course, the first option, since the panels take up a lot of free space, which is already not enough.

Of course, each case is individual. If you’re planning a major renovation and want a nice bathroom, you can sacrifice some free space.

First, you and I will need to clean the walls of the old finish. If it's an old tile, the easiest way is to knock it down with a hammer drill, although you can do it the old fashioned way by picking up a chisel. The paint can be easily cleaned off with a special brush with metal bristles.

After we have removed the finishing, we can safely move on to replacing all communications. We will not dwell on this aspect in detail. Let us only note that after this you proceed to leveling the walls (if necessary). Of course there is more economical option– cover the bathroom walls with some moisture-resistant plasterboard. Alternatively, you can try cement slabs. Just don’t forget to treat the wall with a good antifungal agent.

Wall painting

This finishing method is the least expensive. In principle, everything is simple here - you chose paint, applied it to the walls, and waited for some time. Even if the paint is not ordinary, but textured, it will still be inexpensive. Wall tiling or paneling costs much more.

Perhaps the only drawback to painting bathroom walls is the final result. He is not even an amateur, he is a rare gourmet. By the way, if you decide to paint the walls, you will need to level them very well, since any curvature will be very noticeable.

Let's summarize. Painting the walls is the most budget method renovation in the bathroom. It can be recommended to people who operate on a limited budget or are fans of minimalism.

Wall paneling

Wall panels are sometimes called plastic lining. This name is quite understandable. Plastic panels for wall decoration will be offered to you in any, even small hardware store. The economical option has white, more expensive panels are laminated on the outside. Their cost is not too different from natural wood.

The plating process looks like as follows. The panels are mounted on a frame, which is wooden beam. Before this, it is treated with all kinds of agents: antifungal, water-repellent, bactericidal. This helps prevent rotting. The frame is attached to the walls using dowels.

Wall panels are glued using “liquid nails” and are easily connected to each other into a lock.

By the way, you can hide a couple under the plastic solid boards. They are very convenient for screwing in fasteners for numerous shelves and cabinets that you will hang in the bathroom.

To sum it up, paneling your bathroom walls will cost you a little more. Another disadvantage is that it takes up free space in the room. However, this material looks much better than regular painting.

Wall tiling

This finishing method is considered the most practical. Here's a little step-by-step guide:

  • First, markings are applied to the wall to determine the vertical and horizontal lines. Required tools: plumb line, level of sufficient length.
  • Tile adhesive is applied to a flat wall. To do this, you can use a spatula or a special grater.
  • You will need to form grooves on the adhesive composition. They must have the same depth.
  • The tile is applied to the layer of glue, pressed with your hand as tightly as possible. This way you can lay 3-4 tiles. After this, it is better to pick up a level and check again how correctly and evenly the material was laid. Mistakes made at an early stage of installation are much easier to correct than trying to do it at the end of the renovation.
  • The final stage of finishing will be grouting the joints between the tiles. To do this, you will need to purchase a special composition from a hardware store.

The cheapest option for finishing the bathroom floor

If you renovate the floor from the very beginning, you will need to remove old material. Old screed and trim are removed using a hammer drill. Waterproofing materials laid on top of the cleaned base. A new screed is poured on top.

The most economical and simple covering option is linoleum. Today this material is relatively inexpensive and practical. It is not afraid of moisture and can be easily replaced in case of damage. In addition, if linoleum was laid in the kitchen or living room, you probably have a couple of squares left. You can safely take it and put it in the bathroom.

An alternative estimate for repair work in the bathroom with the involvement of a team of craftsmen

Of course, ideally it is best to buy waterproof laminate. Its modern versions are not afraid of moisture and do not swell.

As with the walls, ceramic tiles have always been and remain classics here. But even here you can save money. Just don't buy oversized tiles - you'll end up with a lot of unnecessary waste.

Costs for the cheapest bathroom renovation - estimate

  • Removal old plaster– 500-600 rubles
  • Plastering, leveling walls (from 450 rubles per sq. meter)
  • Laying tiles - approximately 400-500 rubles per square meter.
  • Screed on the floor - the same amount.

Prices do not include the cost of the materials themselves. According to the most conservative estimates, renovating a bathroom from scratch will cost you 150 thousand (~$3500-$4000) , if everything is done from scratch, including replacing the door and wiring. It’s great if a person has steady hands and can do at least part of the work on their own. Then the repair really turns out to be economical, really cheap.

Video: economical/budget bathroom renovation

The video briefly and clearly points out the points where you can save a lot of money when renovating a bathroom.

During a crisis, you especially want to save on repairs, but your requests remain the same: beautiful, original, elegant. Like any other renovation, finishing the walls and floors in the bathroom has its own nuances. Take them into account at the planning stage - and you can save more than one thousand rubles, and all work will be completed on time.

I inherited an apartment from my grandmother. A small two-room apartment that hasn’t had any renovations for twenty years. Having entered into legal rights, the first thing I decided to do was make repairs. There was no money to hire a team of builders, so I decided to do everything myself, with my own hands, so to speak. After reading books and watching a bunch of training videos, I decided that I would start making a budget one.

A small room 1.3 by 2.5 meters with a ceiling height of 2.7. I don’t know if it was possible to call the one who created it an architect, but now there was no time for reflection.

Dismantling (remove all unnecessary)

The first thing I did was remove everything that could be removed. A friend and I took out a bathtub (cast iron, on the back we found the date of manufacture of this miracle - 1961!). I removed it, having previously plugged the water supply pipes and the central sewer drain of the bathtub. He tore all the tiles off the walls. (It should be noted that the builders did a very good job; they held up admirably.

The floor was not touched, it was practically free of defects and very durable. In a word, I prepared the front of work.

I collected six bags of garbage!

Preparing the walls

I started a budget bathroom renovation from the walls.

I soaked the walls with a primer against mold, looked at the level, and they turned out to be perfectly plumb. I decided that the renovation of the bathroom was not permanent, on a budget, so I would use, not as I wanted, but ordinary wall ones. Since my bathroom renovation is on a budget, this type of wall covering is the most suitable. Cheap and angry. Panels of size (240*2700) are fixed on horizontal guides. I decided to make the guide rails from wood measuring 50*20*2000. Fixing them to the wall using dowels and screws.

Pre-paint the pipe with acrylic paint. I started installing the panels, securing them to the guides with a regular construction stapler.

Installation of PVC plastic panels

I decided to renovate the bathroom not in dull monotony, but using three colors - blue, white and red.

The most difficult thing when renovating a bathroom, it turned out, was to remove the corner, I suffered for a long time before I realized a little trick - insert it using a construction spatula (narrow) and gradually insert the next panel into the guide ( internal corner)! In short, I dealt with the walls.

The next step was to bring in the bathtub. The most ordinary steel bathtub. Size 1700*750mm with legs

and only after that he continued finishing the wall with panels, for best stock water. The only difficulty was laying the panels in the hot and cold water outlets.

but managed it quite successfully using a wood drill of the appropriate diameter. There were no difficulties in the place where I was front door It turns out that installing PVC panels is very simple, you just need to read the instructions and use a good tool

In order to hide the edges of the cuts, I glued a plastic corner 50*50*3000. It turned out very well, the door was simply transformed.
Installing the mixer did not take much time and there were no difficulties.

Ceiling (installation of baseboards and ceiling panels)

Having finished with the walls, I began to work on the ceiling. The ceiling plinth was leveled (special fittings for PVC panels) and with the help of white PVC ceiling panels 500*3000 began to lay the ceiling, making it slightly lower than the original one.

At the same time, wiring the lighting to two spotlights.

The ceiling turned out simply wonderful - my first ceiling in my life!

Laying tiles on the floor

I used sealant along the seams of the bathtub and leveled it using the installation bolts on its legs. The time has come. Since the budget renovation in the bathroom has saved money on the walls and ceiling, you can put tiles on the floor. Moreover, the volume is not large. I had just learned how to lay tiles when the floor was finished.

I used tiles for the floor, two colors blue and red. Having successfully combined them, it even turned out very cute!

I haven’t used it, the gray and blue colors go well together. I connected the bathtub to the sewerage system and put a screen on the bathtub to hide the insides, which are not very aesthetically pleasing. The screen was ready-made, hinged, to simplify the approach to drain cleaning systems.

I decided to use the washbasin together with a cabinet in the colors of the tiles on the floor, killed two birds with one stone, hid the sewer drain and decorated the bathroom with a stylish decorative element! The faucet can easily reach the sink.

AND finishing touch– a mirror above the sink! BEAUTY!

I realized that the most important thing is to believe in yourself and not stop in the face of difficulties! The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing!

We invite you to watch a video on the topic:

Stylish budget renovation in the bathroom

The question of how to cheaply decorate a bathroom worries many people in our country. Average salaries do not allow for expensive repairs in the apartment and force one to resort to searching budget option. Some of them for some reason believe that their dream cannot be translated into reality, but in fact this is not the case. You can achieve aesthetics, comfort, durability and safety of the planned repair, using even relatively inexpensive materials. How to do this?

Everyone knows the old saying that if you want something done well, do it yourself. Before renovating a bathroom, many people want the whole undertaking to be inexpensive, while at the same time wanting to get quality and a beautiful appearance. However, do high-quality repairs Not everyone can do it on their own due to lack of the necessary tools, free time or experience. In this article we will look at how to inexpensively decorate a bathroom, what materials to use and learn some useful tips from experts. Before you start planning inexpensive repair bathroom and toilet, we need to clearly understand what end results we want to achieve in the end. Typically the purpose of repair is:

  • creating a beautiful interior;
  • safe operation of plumbing fixtures and furniture;
  • creating comfort and increasing functionality;
  • preventing the appearance of mold and fungal bacteria;
  • the longest possible service life of the materials used.
    • Economical renovations in the bathroom can be done using inexpensive materials, while observing all the above points, if you plan everything correctly and choose the right material.

    How to choose budget building materials

    Today the industry produces building materials various price categories, designed for consumers of very different income levels. These can be goods of economical, standard and elite classes. There are also very cheap materials on sale, but their advantage is only in their low price. The quality and appearance of such products do not stand up to criticism. Many works can be done independently, without involving specialists. For example, lining a ceiling with plastic lining does not require any special skills. Installing plumbing is also not difficult. Toilet, bathtub, washbasin - you can install it all yourself. It is only important to take your time, carefully study the assortment, calculate all stages of the work being performed, then a successful result will be ensured.

    As for building materials, it is more advisable to choose products of economy class and standard price segment. Both of these types of materials practically do not differ in quality. The same manufacturer can produce similar products under different trademarks. The first will be considered a standard class product, and the second - economical option, and they will differ only in cost. International standards provide for certain quality criteria, for example, the solidification density of building mixtures must not be lower than a certain threshold. For economical materials this figure will be closer to lower value. This statement is true for consumables. Regarding finishing materials, plumbing fixtures and other things, low price is not at all the same as poor quality. It is only necessary to take into account the load conditions to which the product will be subjected. For example, floor tiles should be stronger than wall tiles. At correct selection and installation, tiles in the bathroom can last more than fifteen years. If you have decided to carry out a budget bathroom renovation, you should not purchase luxury building materials. Their quality is no higher than that of budget products, and they benefit only due to their aesthetics. It should be understood that what is expensive is not always of high quality, and vice versa. The high price may be due to, say, the ability to be used in special situations, while your conditions do not require such dedication. The cost can be increased by the store's significant distance from the production facilities of the manufacturing company. Sometimes you have to overpay for a well-promoted brand. One should not exclude differences in living standards in different countries– if a product is produced in a state with high average incomes and high salaries for all employees, then residents of all other countries are forced to pay this very exorbitant salary if they want to buy a specific product. In general, in order to decorate a bathroom cheaply, you should approach the task wisely.

    Wall finishing materials

    1. As a rule, under good repair bathroom most implies finishing with tiles. Pros: Aesthetics and durability. The variety of textures and shades provides almost endless scope for design solutions. In addition, the tiles are not afraid of almost any external influences and can last almost indefinitely. Cons: This material is the most expensive. And not only because of the cost of the tiles themselves, but also due to the complexity of the preparatory work. The walls will have to be properly cleaned and leveled. In addition, laying tiles itself is an expensive and labor-intensive process that requires special skills.

    2. Another option: coating with moisture-resistant paint or special self-adhesive film. Pros: Economical. Cons: Even more thorough cleaning and leveling of the walls will be required, since the slightest irregularities will be evident. But even with the most scrupulous approach, the appearance of such a coating will be very far from perfect. And these materials won’t last long. 3. Inexpensive and very practical option – PVC panels. Pros: The choice is huge, you can choose a design to suit every taste. They can be attached to the walls using “liquid nails” or a special frame-sheathing. In the first case, again, you will need to level the walls, and replacing the panels if necessary will not be easy. But the second option does not require any special preparation. Plastic ones are attached to the walls mounting strips, and on them - using special clamps - the panels themselves. Even a non-professional can handle this task easily and quickly. PVC panels are not afraid of constant humidity and are easy to clean. Cons: They can't stand serious mechanical damage. The cheapest ones can emit an unpleasant odor for a long time, and over time they can turn yellow, so it is better to choose not the cheapest ones.

    Dismantling old cladding

    Don’t forget to remove all the furniture from the bathroom, remove the mirrors, cover the faucets with masking tape, and cover the plumbing fixtures with film or newspaper, because preparing the walls for painting is the dirtiest and most time-consuming stage. The first step of a bathroom renovation is to remove the old wall and floor cladding. It is performed using a hammer and chisel. In this way, the old tiles and plaster are removed, preparing the walls for renovation. It is very important to purchase a special putty designed specifically for the walls and ceiling of the bathroom. This putty contains a special disinfectant composition that prevents the appearance of fungus due to high humidity. In order for the putty to be convenient to work with, it must be fresh and of high quality. After the walls are leveled and dried, decorative plastic panels, mosaics or tiles can be used. The ceiling is carefully leveled for subsequent painting. It’s okay if a little putty remains; it can be stored for several months in a closed container. You should not apply new layers of paint over the old peeling one, nothing good will come of it. If you have a drill in your arsenal, buy a pair for it grinding attachments and remove old paint from walls. Remember safety precautions. Use paint strippers, a scraper and a putty knife. The method is effective, but it is better to work with a respirator and thick rubber gloves.

    Paint can be removed using thermal methods, for example, using a torch or construction hair dryer. Heat a section of the wall and scrape off the peeling coating with a narrow spatula. When all old paint will be removed from the walls, it is necessary to seal cracks and potholes, knock down protrusions.

    DIY wall painting

    Painting walls is considered one of the easiest and least expensive finishing methods. It is important to choose the right paint and prepare the surface of the walls. Bathroom paint should have antibacterial properties and be moisture resistant. Otherwise, the appearance of fungus and peeling of the coating cannot be avoided. Due to their low cost and excellent performance characteristics, latex, silicone, and acrylic paints are most widely used. At the same time, water-based mixtures do not have an unpleasant pungent odor, and silicone paints can act as a water barrier. Traditional oil paints do not have this advantage, and also quickly become covered with cracks, so it is better to immediately abandon this option. When choosing shades, remember that bathrooms small area It is inappropriate to paint in dark colors, as visually this will further reduce the space. Do not overdo it with the number of bright spots or complex patterns and their quantity so that the interior does not look vulgar. Soft pastel colors will visually expand the room and fill it with light.

    Please note that paints can be matte, glossy or semi-gloss. Of this variety, it is matte enamels that best hide small defects on the walls, while drops and streaks are clearly visible on glossy surfaces. However, if you cannot make a choice, consider a combination of glossy and matte surfaces. This technique will make your bathroom modern and stylish without significant costs.

    Wall decoration with tiles

    When thinking about how to cheaply renovate a bathroom, during a budget renovation you probably won’t consider expensive Italian high-strength tiles with a non-slip coating and the ideal geometry of each product. Here it is also important to take into account the manufacturers’ policies, which are similar to the situation with the glue described above. When considering cheap bathroom renovations, we do not take into account elite tiles made from special types of clay with all sorts of additives and additives, but look at budget or middle-class products. In the vast majority of cases, tiles of the middle or low price category do not differ in any way in their composition. Inexpensive finishing a bathroom made from cheap tiles differs only appearance glaze. Of course, products in the middle category have a wider range of shades and a variety of texture solutions. IN in this case When renovating an economy-class bathroom, you shouldn’t chase a chic appearance; you can get by with more restrained solutions, but you can beat them with dignity.

    To work with this material you also need a special tool, certain theoretical knowledge and, of course, practical experience. Of course, it won’t be possible to renovate a bathroom yourself using tiles without the necessary knowledge and tools.

    Decorative plastic panels

    When renovating a bathroom, the largest costs usually go to the purchase of tiles and work on the walls and floors. As an alternative to ceramic tiles, you can use decorative plastic panels. This is a great way to economically update your bathroom and get a very presentable interior. Calculate the number of panels needed, make a reserve of 5–10%. If you have little experience, and the bathroom has a lot of utilities, to close which you will need to trim the panels, then take a reserve of 10%. At the same time, estimate the number of starting profiles, external and internal corners. They are sold at a standard price, cost a penny, and there is no need to save money. The panels are attached to a special sheathing, which is drilled to the walls. Due to their ease of processing, the panels do not cause much trouble for the home craftsman, and their installation rarely requires more than one or two days. We fix the elements in one plane: 1. Check the condition of the wall with a plumb line, pay special attention to the fastening points plastic profiles or slats. 2. Fix the two outermost elements under the level and re-check their position. If there are large recesses where the profiles are attached, then use pads made of various materials. The dowels must attract the profile along the entire plane; there cannot be a gap between it and the wall at the attachment point. 3. Stretch ropes between them; two at the ends of the profiles or slats are enough. 4. Install all other profiles under the rope; use it to control the position of the slats. Then, along the perimeter of the room, a decorative plinth is attached to the floor and ceiling, which can disguise possible flaws in the cut edges of the panels.

    Wall decoration with wallpaper

    For wallpapering, you can use only waterproof types. This finishing method has a number of undeniable advantages. Low cost allows you to have exclusive and reliable coverage with small material losses. High technology. Among all possible ways decorating the walls in the bathroom, wallpapering is the simplest. The work is completed within a few hours, the room can be used for its intended purpose the very next day. It is possible to frequently change the design of the premises. In some cases, re-pasting can be done without removing the old one - the repair time is significantly reduced and the amount of construction waste is minimized. Disadvantage: in terms of physical strength, wallpaper is inferior to traditional materials. But, if you behave carefully and avoid mechanical damage, the period can be calculated in many years. In addition, defects on wallpaper can be easily eliminated; after pasting there will always be a small amount of material left. Don't throw it away, keep it “just in case” for repairs. Wallpaper for a bathroom must be moisture resistant. When purchasing, pay attention to physical strength, and it depends on the material of manufacture. Vinyl on a non-woven basis is the most modern, has high mechanical strength, and can have long-term direct contact with water. Available in a wide range color solutions, can be plain or with various patterns and ornaments, with a structured or smooth front surface. Disadvantages - relatively high price, the need to use special glue.

    Washable - cheaper segment, according to operational characteristics inferior to vinyl. It is recommended to use in areas of the wall that are not exposed to splashes of water. Self-adhesive - made from a special polymer film, they have a huge number of design solutions. Disadvantages - relatively high price and complexity of finishing. In addition, they can only be used on perfectly flat surfaces.

    How to decorate a ceiling

    The simplest and cheap way– putty and painting. However, if there are significant unevenness on the ceiling, it will be almost impossible to achieve a good result. Over time, the paint may darken or even peel off; even with a small leak, the ceiling will be hopelessly damaged. You won't be able to install built-in lighting - only pendant lights will be available to you. A more practical option is the same PVC panels or suspended slatted ceiling. The latter are made from steel, aluminum or plastic slats and are often sold in ready-made kits - along with the frame and fastenings. Such ceilings are inexpensive, durable, easy to install and operate and are suitable for almost any bathroom.

    Are becoming more and more popular suspended ceilings. To install them, you will have to call professionals with special equipment, but as a result you will get not only a perfectly smooth ceiling, but also reliable protection from leaks: suspended ceilings can withstand from 70 to 120 liters of water per square meter. True, this option is not suitable for those who have a gas water heater installed in the bathroom.

    What to cover the floor with?

    The cheapest option is linoleum. It is not difficult to install it, but under no circumstances should moisture get under the covering, otherwise mold will begin to multiply there and an unpleasant odor will appear. Therefore, linoleum must be glued to the floor, and the seams must be treated with silicone sealant. When installed correctly, this material has one drawback - very conventional “beauty”. A universal option is ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware. They can be chosen to suit every taste and budget. This material has practically no disadvantages, except perhaps its widespread distribution.

    Lovers over original solutions choose moisture-resistant laminate or self-leveling floors. However, the first option has too low moisture resistance and quickly fails, and the second is too expensive and difficult to install.

    Bathroom lighting

    Pay attention to lighting options. Well-thought-out lighting, installed in the right places, can turn the most unprepossessing room into a masterpiece of design art. Economical bathroom renovation does not involve installation hidden wiring in the walls or LED lighting. But you can install wall lamps so that they will visually narrow or expand the room. Budget bathroom decoration includes suspended ceilings made of plastic panels in which spotlights can be installed, they will highlight advantageous places, divide the room into functional areas and hide unnecessary structural or design flaws.

    Plumbing in the bathroom

    It is important to remember one simple rule. Plumbing and its important components are not things you can save on. If there are problem areas, leaks or other temporary defects in the water supply, they must be eliminated. Also, a low-budget bathroom renovation allows for a complete replacement of siphons and faucets. An old bathtub made of cast iron or steel can be insulated with polyurethane foam and the enamel coating can be renewed. If the washbasin has cracks or chips, it is better to replace it with a new, inexpensive model. The cheapest bathroom renovations can be done without even replacing a sink or toilet with old cracks. For these purposes, there are many modern materials that can repair cracks, renew the coating, or in some cases simply clean it of old plaque.

    Before you cheaply renovate your bathroom, don’t forget about the market stalls, where you can find many used products in excellent condition, at prices significantly lower than market prices. They come to the market from construction organizations who, when renovating an economy class bathroom at other facilities, simply dismantle the old plumbing and put it on the market for sale. There, worn-out parts such as gaskets in mixers and shut-off valves are replaced, then sold at significantly reduced prices.

    If you decide to renovate your bathroom yourself, then this review will tell you the correct sequence of actions. Choose the most suitable option carrying out the work and implement it as recommended in the relevant section of the article.

    How to organize work

    To cope with the work, you need to carefully plan each stage.

    The more you understand each stage, the easier it will be to work:

    • Thinking through the future interior and choosing plumbing fixtures;
    • Dismantling of old finishing and equipment;
    • Laying communications;
    • Floor finishing;
    • Wall decoration;
    • Ceiling finishing.

    Interior planning

    Even before work begins, you need to decide on a number of factors and plan the repair.

    The following aspects should be considered at this stage:

    • The size of the room - the design directly depends on this. If the room is small, then rational use of space comes to the fore. And if there is enough space, then you can implement any ideas that you would like to see;

    • Next, you need to choose the arrangement of plumbing fixtures and furniture elements. You don’t have to be a designer here; the Internet is full of examples that you can use. Moreover, you can take a ready-made solution, or you can make your own version based on one or several examples to take into account all the features of your bathroom;

    • It is necessary to consider whether water and sewer pipes require replacement. Also decide in advance whether the plumbing will be replaced, as this will greatly increase the cost of the project. If a replacement is to be made, then decide in advance on specific equipment options in order to know its size, color and connection method;

    • A very important aspect is the planned budget. If you need to carry out repairs quickly and inexpensively, then you should choose materials that are cheap and easy to install. And vice versa, if it is important for you to get the best result and price is not an issue, then you can choose expensive finishing materials;
    • Be sure to measure the area of ​​all surfaces, this will allow you to accurately calculate finishing materials.

    Dismantling old finishes and equipment

    This part of the work very often takes longer than the finishing itself. After all, knocking down a tile is much more difficult than laying a new one; the same goes for removing paint and dismantling plumbing fixtures.

    Let's look at the most common types of work:

    • Most often there are tiles on the floor. The easiest way to remove it is with a hammer drill with a flat blade. The process is noisy and not always simple, especially if the ceramics are held firmly and come off not entirely, but in pieces. It’s much easier if you have linoleum: you just need to remove the baseboard and tear off or simply remove the material from the surface;

    • As for the ceilings, they are most often whitewashed or. The first option must be removed using a spatula, after soaking the surface. The second one must be looked at according to the situation and use either special compounds, or heating with a hairdryer, or mechanical treatment;

    • As for the walls, they most often have tiles or many layers oil paint. The first type of coating is knocked down using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel. The second one is best removed using a special composition called paint remover. The remover is applied to the surface and left for a certain time, after which the paint easily comes off the wall; if necessary, individual areas are re-treated;

    • Dismantling of plumbing equipment is carried out according to the situation. Often the sides of the bathtub and its supports are concreted, so you need to free the structure using a hammer drill. If the structure is very heavy and remove it from small room problematic, you can cut it into two parts with a grinder. This will make your work easier.

    Laying new communications

    If, after dismantling old equipment, you have discovered terrible metal water pipes and cast iron sewer elements, it is better to replace them.

    The work is done in this order:

    • First you need to dismantle all the old pipes. Sewer lines are disconnected at the joints, and water pipes are cut off before the tap, which shuts off the water supply;

    • To hide water pipes, it is better to lay them in grooves. The grooves are made in the walls using a perforator according to the size of the pipelines. It is important to mark the location of the grooves in advance so as not to be distracted during the work;

    • The sewage system is made of plastic pipes. Thanks to connections with special seals, you can easily assemble the system with your own hands, and it will only take a little time. All turns and branches are made using special corners and bends;

    • As for the water supply, it is best to install polypropylene pipes, which are connected with a special soldering iron. If you do not have such equipment, you can hire a specialist. In the bathroom, the amount of work is small, and the price for services will not be very high;

    Flooring installation

    If you are renovating your bathroom yourself, you should start with the floor. We will analyze two options for carrying out the work: laying linoleum and laying tiles. But first of all, you need to prepare the surface.

    The process is done like this:

    • The floor is cleaned of dust and debris; if there are large irregularities, cracks and damage on it, it is best to seal them with cement mortar. A ready-made dry mixture is purchased, diluted with water and applied to the required areas;
    • The easiest way to complete the final leveling of the floor is with a self-leveling mixture. It is prepared and poured onto the surface, after which it is evenly distributed using a needle roller or spatula. It is important to level the plane so that the base is even and smooth, this will simplify further work.

    If you decide to make a heated floor, then it is better to fill the surface after laying the pipes or heating modules. Then you won't have to do the screed twice. The process here looks like this: first, the heating system is laid (this process is described in a separate review), after which the solution is poured so that its thickness above the pipes is at least 2 cm.

    Now let's look at the fastest option for repairing the bathroom floor:

    • You can purchase linoleum, and you should choose options without a base or on a polymer foam base that is not afraid of moisture. It is very important to buy a piece of such a size that you cover the entire surface without seams. The material can have a large width, so there will be no problems with selection;

    • The material is spread on the floor and then leveled on the surface. All excess is carefully cut off with a knife at the junction of the wall and floor. The work is simple, but requires care so as not to spoil the material. It is best to cut with a sharp knife with a hard blade;

    • Since the room is small, it is not necessary to glue the material. It is much easier to glue double-sided masking tape around the perimeter and secure the linoleum to it. Everything is very simple and at the same time very reliable.

    Now let's look at a more reliable option - tiles, which are not only attractive, but also durable.

    In this case, the work is carried out as follows:

    • The necessary materials are being prepared. In addition to the ceramics itself, we will need adhesive composition and a fugue for grouting;

    • The required tools include a building level, a notched trowel, a mixer and a container for preparing the solution. You also cannot do without a tile cutter, since in any case you will have to trim some elements. Crosses will help make all the seams between the tiles perfectly even and neat;

    • You can start either from the middle of the room or from the corner of the room. An adhesive composition is applied to the floor, which is leveled using a notched trowel or trowel. One or more tiles are laid, after which their position is adjusted and checked using a level. If necessary, individual sections can be lightly tamped with your hand; usually they sit without problems;

    • The installation continues on and on. It is important to check the level of both each individual element and the entire surface as a whole. Place the level in all directions so that if there are problems, they can be detected and eliminated in a timely manner;

    • After laying the tiles on the floor, you need to wait for the glue to dry, which usually takes a day. Then the grouting compound is prepared and applied to all cracks. Work is being done rubber spatula, you must fill the voids between the tiles to protect the surface from moisture. After the fugue has dried, remove its residue from the surface and wash the tiles.

    Working with walls

    As for this part of the room, here we will also look at two options: PVC panels and tiles. If you need inexpensive option, then the walls must definitely be covered with plastic panels.

    The work instructions look like this:

    • First you need to prepare the walls. If they have large irregularities or cracks, they should be sealed with cement mortar. Mold pockets must be treated with special fungicidal compounds;
    • For work we will need PVC panels and accessories for them, as well as wooden block for lathing and fastening elements. The tools you need are a level, a hacksaw, a screwdriver and a hammer drill, as well as a tape measure and a pencil for measurements and markings;

    • Wall finishing begins with the construction of the frame; for this, level markings are first made to determine the plane of the future frame. Next, the block is cut into pieces of the required size, and holes for dowels are drilled in it every 50 cm;
    • Marks are made on the walls, holes are drilled, and the block is attached to dowels, but not fixed. Using a level, the plane of the sheathing is set, slats and chips are placed under it, after which the screws are driven in;

    If you have a riser in your bathroom, it is also better to sew it up. To do this, a sheathing is constructed around the pipe.

    • Fastening the panels is simple. A starting profile or corner is placed in the corner, after which the first element is inserted. It is positioned with the protrusion forward, so that it can be secured with screws or a stapler at the back. The work is simple and takes little time, the main thing is to join the elements well before fixing;

    • If you did not immediately attach the additional elements, then after installing the panels you need to glue the corners and other components with liquid nails. This will allow you to quickly close all the flaws and give the repair a neat look.

    The second option for finishing the walls in the bathroom is laying ceramic tiles.

    The process is almost the same as when tiling the floor, but it has its own characteristics, which we will consider here:

    • First of all, a strip or metal is fixed around the perimeter at the height of one tile. The laying will begin precisely from this element, this will ensure a perfectly flat plane of the wall, even if there are flaws on the floor. The work is simple: glue is applied to the surface, after which the tiles are glued. Do not forget to put crosses in the seams and check the flatness using a level;

    • The next day, the slats are removed and the first row can be added. If necessary, the elements are trimmed, and we get a smooth wall from bottom to top;

    • The final stage is grouting the joints with a fugue. It is important to fill all the seams so that no water gets under the surface.

    Ceiling finishing

    Now let's figure out how to repair the ceiling. There are three options; if you need cheap repairs, the easiest way is to use plastic panels (the technology is the same as in the section above).

    If you want to get a reliable and attractive ceiling, you can order a stretch fabric. Another inexpensive option is surface putty, which is what we will look at.

    The technology of work is simple:

    • The materials you need are putty for wet areas, deep penetration primer and paint of a certain color;

    • The tools you need are a brush for paint and primer (or a roller), a wide and narrow spatula, a sanding float with sandpaper;
    • The work begins with cleaning the surface from dirt and dust. If there are seams on it, then they need to be sealed with a special solution for joints of concrete slabs. Mold areas are treated with an antiseptic;
    • The ceiling is treated with a primer, this helps strengthen the surface and improve the adhesion of the putty composition. For concrete, a single treatment is sufficient. Work can be continued only after the surface has completely dried;

    • The putty is made in two layers. The first is needed in order to eliminate all minor irregularities and apply a more or less uniform layer of putty to the entire surface. The second is the final leveling, and all the flaws of the first layer are eliminated. The work is simple: the spatula is held at an angle of 30 degrees, and the mass is distributed over the ceiling in an even layer;

    • After the surface has dried, it needs to be leveled. To do this, use a grater with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh with a grit of P150 or less. The ceiling is processed in parts to remove all the imperfections of the putty and make the surface perfectly smooth;

    To check how well you have leveled the ceiling, simply hold a light bulb or flashlight to it. The light will show any flaws, if any.

    • After leveling, dust is removed from the surface. Then a primer is applied to it to strengthen the putty layer;
    • Lastly, coloring is done. Use washable paint to make the ceiling easier to care for and resistant to moisture. Most often, painting is done in 2 layers.

    If you have completed the finishing of the bathroom, then you can easily renovate the apartment yourself. The main thing is not to be afraid, because the work is complicated at first glance, but in fact, with the right desire, you can complete the room in a week.

    Conclusion

    I am sure that after reading the article you will already choose the repair option and implement it in the near future. The video in this article will help you understand even better some of the work described above. If you have questions, write them in the comments below.

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