Kitchen extension to a wooden house projects. Construction of an extension to a wooden house: types of extensions, creation of projects, construction of a foundation and wiring of communications

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Quite often it happens that the construction of a private house was carried out without the construction of outbuildings, but then the need for them arose. Modern projects houses often imply only the utilitarian function of the house - they will live there. And what if the person will also conduct some kind of economic activity - no. In addition, sometimes there is an urgent need to increase the living space of the house. An extension made of foam blocks, a brick extension, a wooden one - the creation of these structures will help solve this issue once and for all.

Types of extensions

The type of building is determined depending on what exactly should be in it. This could be a room, a toilet, a garage, a kitchen, or anything. By the way, in central Russia you can often find a structure in the form of a greenhouse in which you can grow fruits and vegetables even in winter.

Diagram of the garage-extension

Indeed, in this case, all the necessary engineering communications can be easily extended from the house. Of course, the construction of a structure must be approved, even if we are talking about wooden terraces or simply adding a veranda to the house.

Creating a project and choosing the location of the extension

Projects and construction of such structures involve the following stages:

As for the choice of materials, it is better to be guided by the following rule: it is necessary to create projects and build an extension from the same materials that the house itself consists of.

Device frame house in section

For example, if you need to add terraces to wooden house, then it’s better to let it be wooden. Of course, this rule cannot always be observed.

Let's say a person wants to raise chickens, he needs a high-quality, windproof, warm brick extension. In this case, this option should be preferred, despite the fact that the house is wooden.

Options for the location of extensions to a standard wooden house

Estimate calculation

Actually, drawing up the estimate itself is not so difficult, it is necessary to take into account the following:

An example of a veranda attached to a wooden house

Construction estimates should be drawn up immediately after the projects are ready, regardless of whether terraces will be added or just wooden utility blocks. This will avoid unpleasant surprises in the future.

Construction of the foundation and connection of the foundation

In Russia, bathhouses are often attached to wooden houses.

Even the construction of an ordinary terrace for a wooden house involves the creation of a new foundation for it. The option of lengthening the old foundation disappears immediately: it is impossible to do this, but connecting both foundations into a single whole later is not only possible, but also necessary.

For example, even for wooden terraces you will need to make exactly the same foundation as the main house. So, first you need to decide on the type of foundation itself.

General diagram of the gable structure of a frame house

Actually, there are 3 foundation options that can be used as a base for an extension:

Monolithic;
Columnar;
Tape.

Columnar foundations are used extremely rarely in Russia, since they can only be installed on very hard soils such as mountains.

It can be used, for example, to build a gazebo, however, such buildings are usually not attached to the house, but placed next to it. By the way, for a gazebo, instead of a foundation, you can use old tires - this will be quite enough.

Layout diagram for an extension made of foam blocks

A monolithic foundation will be the most durable, however, its installation is not always advisable.

Monolithic is the most solid foundation, as they say, “for centuries.” However, the cost of its construction, as you might guess, will amount to a tidy sum, and the labor costs will be very, very impressive. In general, it is better to choose a classic strip foundation, which is ideal for any extension to a wooden house.

Placement of communications

An example of a garage extension to a wooden house

As noted above, placing any communications in the extension is as easy as shelling pears, because the room will be adjacent directly to the house itself. What does this mean?

For example, it is enough to just extend the existing water supply, sewerage or heating system- that’s it, no pits and grueling welding work. The same applies to laying electrical wiring, which probably even the most careless worker can do with a hammer drill.

It’s a different matter if we are talking about really complex engineering systems. Let’s say you need to install a branch from the main gas pipeline into the extension. Firstly, no one will let you do it yourself.

Construction of a veranda attached to the house

Secondly, this will require, speaking without exaggeration, colossal expenditures. So it's worth thinking about. For example, in Kuban you can often find kitchen extensions to wooden houses.

And even if gas is installed in the house itself, there will still be gas in the extension. gas cylinder or the same electric stove(the oven is also a common option). Such nuances must be taken into account.

Communication with other premises

The question of how to make an extension to a house, even if we are talking about such a type of work as adding a veranda or another extension made of timber, should also involve solving the problem of communication between the attached structure and the rest of the house.

There are 2 solutions to this problem:

A covered terrace is an excellent extension option

An extension to a house made of timber can have a connection with the house using a doorway made in the main wall of the house;
The entrance can be from the street (an extension to a house made of timber makes it easy to implement both options, but another material made of wood does not).

In the first case, the solution will be convenient, because, in fact, the living area of the entire house increases. But there is one extremely important nuance: the approval process in this case can last for many months, because changes must be made to many documents.

And the load-bearing wall of the house can be seriously damaged. If the owner of the house is ready for such a development of events, then, of course, it is better for him to prefer this option rather than any other.

Cutting an opening in a load-bearing wall must be done with extreme caution!

If Money If there is not enough and there is no desire to go through the bureaucratic circles of hell, then the option with an entrance from the courtyard will not be so bad. Moreover, in terms of cost it will be much cheaper.

Video

You can watch a video on how to make a frame extension to a wooden house.

Equip Utility room or additional living room. Then the question arises for the home owner. What to do? A common option for expanding the area is to add an extension to the house yourself. It's cheaper than building a whole house. Allows you to avoid credit loans for years, which not everyone can afford. In general, it may not be very expensive. This refers only to the construction itself. A house equipped with properly executed extensions becomes more comfortable and beautiful.

Organizational aspects

Terrace attached to the house

Even at the stage of thinking about construction, you already need to be prepared for the fact that when the time comes to legitimize the new structure, you will encounter difficulties. From the organizational and technical aspects, this is all considered more difficult. If the main building has already been designed and put into operation, then self-construction may lead to its failure.

Registration will not be cheap. The type and design of the extension will be taken into account. New results will be required for the operation of all housing. But difficult does not mean impossible.

To apply you will need:

Soil studies at the construction site. The pleasure is not cheap. This is necessary to guarantee the reliability of the new structure, which in turn is important for the integrity of the old house
Checking existing housing
Obtain building permission from neighbors
Extension project, developed independently or custom-made by specialists
Approve the project from a licensed construction company, firefighters, SES, electricians, utility workers. Columns 1, 2, 4 by order in construction company are resolved faster and are cheaper
Obtain a building permit from the architects. Here you can combine columns 1, 2, 4, 5 by ordering a “project by key” or “project with a link”
Upon completion of construction acceptance of the building by the authorities that issued the permit
Renew all contracts with utilities for the new area
Re-register the new area with the tax service, cadastre

If everything is drawn up correctly, then specialists from licensed companies often do not harm themselves and quickly complete all the documents.

Basic requirements for construction

The project of a future extension must be well planned from the beginning, so as not to lead to additional alterations later. It is necessary to think through all the points in advance. Each structure has its own conditions during construction.

For a living room, all structures must have good insulation. Otherwise, the heating carried out will not make sense. It is also very important to prevent dampness in the room. Reliable waterproofing is a guarantee of normal operation of the premises and will make it reliable and durable. The presence of natural light is also important.

Veranda with glazing

Utilities for the kitchen and bathroom are provided in advance. It is better to do this before pouring the foundation. Particular attention should be paid to the insulation of the structure and good waterproofing of the floor.

The main function of the veranda is to protect the entrance to the main building from bad weather. In summer people relax here. No need to insulate. Waterproofing the foundation is very important. The structure can be in the form of a regular deck, with low walls and a roof raised on pillars. Verandas are also being built, closed by walls, with a door and one or more windows.

Where to start?

During any construction, they begin with preparatory work. The site is thoroughly cleared of debris and everything necessary for construction is prepared.

A drainage system is required under the structure. To do this, the earth is compacted and a slope is made in this place to allow water to drain.

Foundation

The foundation for the construction of a structure can be strip or columnar. Everyone has their own qualities. To choose the most suitable one, you must first study each one.

Strip foundation

Strip foundation

This basis is performed in the following order:

Markings are made with a rope and the construction site is traced. It is pulled and fixed. Using this marking, a trench is dug to the depth of the base of the main building and 10-15 cm wider than the wall
The bottom of the trench is covered with a 10-12 cm layer of sand. All this is carefully compacted. Next comes crushed stone, which also needs to be compacted. Broken bricks may be used
The next step is to lay a waterproofing film along the trench. It extends 40-50 cm above the ground. It covers the foundation from the inside and the formwork above the ground. Then the reinforcement is fixed. Its design in shape should be a repetition of the foundation at full height
The concrete solution should consist of cement with gravel. It fills 1/3 of the trench height. This layer must harden completely. Next comes another layer of concrete. It will fill half of the remaining height
Having installed the formwork, a base is formed. The waterproofing remains in the formwork, spread along its walls and secured on top. The film should not slide into the concrete. The formwork is completely filled with concrete. The solution must be pierced with a shovel so that there are no air cavities inside. The formwork is also lightly tapped so that the resulting vibration compacts the concrete solution well.
Upon completion of pouring, the concrete is leveled and left to dry completely. It is sprayed with water every day. This makes it more durable. When it hardens, the formwork is removed
It is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or materials in rolls. This liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt. After this they begin to build walls
The internal space of this foundation is equipped various options. For example, using concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and joists, with subsequent installation of a wooden floor

Columnar foundation

Columnar foundation

This type of foundation is built from brick or concrete. Possibly from both materials. This base is used for the construction of verandas and living rooms, with plans for the future installation of plank flooring.

The foundation is carried out in the following order:

First, markings of the selected site for construction are also applied.
The pillars should be placed 1.5 m from each other. For them, pits measuring 50x50 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm are dug. The dimensions of the pit at the top expand by approximately 10 cm on each side
Next, the bottom of the pits is strengthened with sand and gravel. Waterproofing is being laid
A layer of cement mortar is poured under the brick supports. It should freeze completely. After this, brickwork is done
For concrete pillars reinforcement and formwork are installed in the pit to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is laid inside the formwork and secured on top
The formwork is filled with concrete mortar in layers, each of which is allowed to dry.
The top of the column is leveled and sprinkled with water every day until the concrete has completely hardened.
After this, the formwork is removed. Using warm bitumen mastic, the pillars are covered with roofing felt.
The void around the pillars is filled with earth and crushed stone. Every 10-15 cm it must be compacted
Roofing material is laid on the pillars in several layers. This will act as a waterproofing protection for the wooden blocks. They will be installed on top

Floor Basics

Floors made of wood and concrete are laid on a strip foundation. The tree is also laid for a columnar foundation without lintels.

Concrete base

Concrete base

For the reliability and warmth of the floor screed on a strip foundation, work is carried out in stages using a specific technology:

First, the soil is removed from the foundation. It is loosened and removed. The depth of the pit should be approximately 25-35 cm
The bottom is filled with 10 cm of sand. It compacts well. Next, crushed stone or expanded clay is laid at a depth of 15-20 cm. The second material makes the screed warm
Everything is well leveled and the reinforcing grid is laid. A system of beacons is installed on it at a horizontal level. Some rooms require a surface slope. For example, in a bathroom or on an open terrace, water from the floor should flow freely to the drainage system
The next step is to pour cement and level it. After a day it is recommended to cover it plastic film. This will make it more uniform, durable
When the structure is ready, flooring or a wooden floor can be laid on the concrete base.

Wooden beam base

Wooden beam base

To ensure durable floors, choose high-quality crossbars.
Wooden blocks, 15x10 cm thick in cross-section, are placed on the foundation, on a roofing felt backing.
They are attached to concrete using through connections or corners.
The beams are also fastened to each other with powerful corners. All this will hold securely.

Wall materials

Any materials can be used for the construction of an additional extension. The walls are built of brick, frame, or foam blocks. The main thing is that all this has good combination with the main house.

Repeating the exterior decoration of the house will not be difficult. Wood, for example, goes well with all materials and looks good without additional processing.

Frame walls

The construction of a frame structure is a good option:

construction is fast, in a matter of months
due to the ease of construction, no capital foundation is required
you can do it yourself
inexpensive in price

The basics of the house and self-construction are done on the same level. The connection should not be capital, because The extension will sag after some time. Done expansion joint. Frame structures do not shrink vertically, which makes them very attractive.

The frame for the walls is made of timber and attached to pre-assembled crown beams. The beams can be fastened separately. But it will be easier to assemble all the parts together with special fasteners, and then install them assembled.

To connect the frame to the main building, vertical markings are made. Precision is required here. After installation, to make the frame stronger, it is immediately upholstered.

The upper beam along the house is attached to the main wall with anchor bolts. The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Brick walls

Brick walls require a perfectly flat foundation surface. Everything is checked. If there are any irregularities, they need to be corrected. Otherwise, this will lead to cracking between the bricks when the structure shrinks.

For the most part, brick structures are attached to a house made of the same material. They tie him up metal frame, which is placed in the prepared holes. They are made in the main wall at 2/3 depth. Repeat every 2-3 rows. The reinforcement should protrude from the wall by at least half a meter and be in the joints of the masonry. It is important to take thin rods. Otherwise, the seams in this place will be very wide. Or you will have to make a recess in the bricks for the reinforcement.

The brick extension is also attached to the tree with a frame. It is placed in through-drilled holes. Transverse stops are made on the reinforcement. They will keep them in the wall.

To follow the rows horizontally, you need to pull a cord along the future wall. A plumb line is used to check vertically.

The thickness of the wall will depend on the functionality of the attached structure. For a living room, bricks are laid in 1-2 layers. For a terrace or outbuilding, a layer of half a brick will be enough.

Upon completion, the brick walls are surrounded with concrete on top. To do this, establish a form in which the reinforcement is placed. All this is concreted. When the solution has hardened, the mold is removed and the roofing begins to be installed.

Laying brick walls is not as easy as it might seem. This requires experience. The best option will entrust the work to a professional. Or make walls from a different material.

Walls made of foam blocks

Foam concrete has its own distinctive qualities among building materials:

The work does not require any special skills. Construction is possible on difficult soil
Because the blocks large sizes and lightweight, assembly takes less time and effort compared to laying brick or timber
The material is durable, environmentally friendly, non-flammable and meets all standards fire safety. It also has low thermal conductivity and “breathes” well, which creates an optimal indoor climate
Inexpensive, easy to assemble and easy to drill
An extension made of foam blocks practically does not shrink and has a fairly long service life.

Additional protection is required because... the material soon loses thermal insulation due to its high hygroscopicity
Not good beautiful view. Therefore, you will need external finishing.

Construction of foam concrete requires a strict sequence of stages:

It is necessary to start laying from the corner points
The blocks are moistened from below to increase adhesion. The initial row is covered with several layers of protection against capillary moisture
The quality of the assembly is affected by the horizontal and vertical position of the first row. Therefore, strict adherence to all rules is required. Horizontal irregularities are corrected using a solution
Used between clutches adhesive composition. The connections are no more than 1 mm, which minimizes their space, in other words, “cold bridges”
The composition is prepared strictly following the rules. It is applied on top and sides of the blocks. Each brick is aligned horizontally and vertically
Using a sanding float, the horizontality of each row is leveled. The debris that is generated must be thoroughly swept away
The corners and every 5 rows are reinforced with rods that will bind the structure and prevent cracking. For what circular saw Make cuts 3 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Then the recesses are knocked out with a hammer and chisel. They need to be cleaned. Welded rods are laid in the middle of the recesses and filled with adhesive

For window and doorways install jumpers no more than 1.75 m wide. They are made using formwork - removable or permanent. The strength of foam concrete is not designed for large openings. It’s better then to choose a cinder block or sand-lime brick. This is a more reliable basis. The height of the lintel will depend on the thickness of the future floor.

For removable mold, weld first metal constructions the right size. Support bars are nailed to the sides of the opening, and a form is placed on them. Shields are attached to the sides. Foam blocks are cut into narrow blocks. They arrange the form from the inside. The end result will be something like a trough.

The reinforcement frame is placed so that the side with the a large number twigs All this is secured with spacers. Then the blocks are moistened, filled with concrete solution around the perimeter of the walls and compacted. The poured concrete is leveled to the level of the blocks in the formwork and smoothed well.

For non-removable form useU-shaped blocks. Installation of the form itself is not required. Less time is spent on work.

To lay such blocks you need:

Place the block with the support cut out on the sides of the opening. Next, check the horizontality of the supports using the hose level. All irregularities are corrected with a sanding float.
The U-block is installed on the glue with the hole facing up. Afterwards, a structure of reinforcement is placed so that there is a large number of rods below. It is secured with spacers
The block is moistened. Concrete layers are laid on top. They are carefully compacted with a trowel

It is very important to install a reinforced belt on the building. This will make it resistant to different types deformation, wind loads, will increase the load-bearing capacity. The reinforced belt is insanely heavy. They do it right on the walls.

When the walls are already erected, they begin to work on the ceiling. Crossbars are used for this. They are installed on the walls 60-70 cm from each other. They are fastened with special corners.

When installing crossbars on brick extension, they are embedded in a concrete belt. The sides of the crossbars are wrapped in roofing felt. Then all this is hemmed with boards or thick plywood. The insulation material is laid between the sheathing and the crossbars.

Roofs vary in appearance. Mostly they choose a single-pitched type. It consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. There is nothing complicated about the installation. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the slope angle so that winter precipitation cannot remain on the roof. Otherwise it will be damaged.

Next, place marks in the form of a horizontal, even line on the wall or front side of the roof. A block is fixed along this line to support the support at the top. The base at the bottom will be the crossbars or the edge of the wall. To protect the walls as much as possible from precipitation, the rafters are extended beyond the edges of the walls by 25-30 cm. They are also strengthened with the help of metal corners.

The problem of roof slope is more difficult to solve when it is built on the side where the slope of the main building is located. There is nothing to attach the crossbar to. To do this, a little roofing is removed from the roof of the house, and a rafter system is attached to its beams. Then the general coverage is combined.

It is advisable to know initially what material will be on top. For soft roof or flexible tiles, plywood or a lattice structure is placed on the rafters. Roofing iron, metal tiles, slate and other large sheets are placed overlapping each other on the rafters.

Waterproofing is a must. It is covered with plywood or secured to the rafters. Next, the top covering is laid.

To combine the roofs, at the junction, the upper row of the self-built roof is placed under the lower row of the sloping house. If the roof of the upper part of the roof borders the wall or the front part of the roof, the joint seam will certainly be covered with waterproofing. When the roof is ready, they get to work insulating the structure inside.

The room you plan to live in needs good thermal insulation. The ceiling is sheathed and well insulated. After this they begin to work on the floors.

Transverse logs made of bars of smaller size are attached to the installed crossbars on the columnar foundation. A subfloor is installed on them. To do this, the boards are placed as a continuous flooring. This will prevent heat from leaving the house. After the roughing, the floor is coated with a thick clay solution. It should dry well. Then a vapor barrier film is laid on it.

Insulating material is laid between the joists. It can be mineral wool, expanded clay or slag. Then they cover it with another layer of vapor barrier, and lay plywood. Then any flooring material can be laid.

Concrete can be insulated in the following ways:

Mineral wool is laid between the logs, which are fixed to a concrete base. All this is covered with boards or plywood
Using the "warm floor" system. It is installed on a finishing screed
Placed on a special reflective substrate infrared film, and then covered with a decorative coating
Using dry screed and gypsum fiber boards

When everything is finished with the floors, they begin to insulate the walls. Mineral wool is the most common material. It is produced in mats, which makes the work easy and takes little time.

On frame walls, cotton wool is placed between the frame bars and covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Next, the walls are covered with many options. For example, natural wooden clapboard, plywood, plasterboard.

Expanded polystyrene is also used for room insulation. But the quality is worse.

Brick walls are usually insulated from the outside. The inside is covered with plaster or plasterboard. But, if there is a lot of space, you can insulate it with mineral wool and cover it with plasterboard on top. Only then wallpaper or some other material is pasted.

If you carefully study all stages of the construction of an additional structure and follow the developed technologies, everything will turn out correctly and efficiently. If you are unsure of your capabilities and feel a lack of skill and experience in construction, you can entrust the work to professionals.

Video: Construction of an extension to a house from A to Z

Design

Material costs

The desire to improve your living conditions by increasing the number square meters appeared to every owner of a private house. Apartment owners are not lagging behind in this and would also be happy to add at least one room for themselves.

There is nothing impossible about this, extensions to apartment buildings are a dime a dozen, you just need to know how to do it correctly, and not only from a legal point of view. The key to successful construction and comfortable living is the correct organization of work and adherence to process technology.

Extension layout

The construction of the extension begins with, perhaps, the most important thing - with permission for this very construction. Without the appropriate piece of paper, you can run into a serious fine, and the money spent will be wasted.

The next stage is also theoretical. Determine what purpose the extension being built will have. Will it be residential or winter Garden, storage room or just an emergency exit porch. Cash injections into construction directly depend on the purpose of the structure.

Logically, it would be correct to draw up a drawing; the drawing helps you understand how to make an extension to the house, and make approximate calculations on the amount of material needed. Then they go to the site of future construction and transfer the drawing to the site, indicating the dimensions of the extension using a cord and metal or wooden pegs. It is on the spot that they carefully examine how the new foundation will combine with the existing one and whether the future extension fits into the architecture.

Material selection

The material of the extension and the house are usually the same

Experts advise approaching this issue simply: from what material the main house is built, the same should be used for the extension. Simply put, if the house is wooden, then a wooden extension should be added to it. The same applies to brick and concrete. But technical progress in the field of building materials does not stand still, and now universal materials have appeared, such as foam and gas blocks. In addition to its versatility, it is an environmentally friendly and heat-saving material. Such an extension can be faced with decorative slabs that imitate the material of the walls of the main building, which will create the appearance of execution in the same style.

But there are also exceptions. In some climatic zones, it is possible to make a wooden extension to a concrete building if it is used as a storage room or garage. You can even build a bathhouse from logs and attach it to your apartment. Flights of fancy in such cases are limited only by financial possibilities.

Construction of the foundation

Most important stage construction – . Even the strongest walls made from modern and expensive materials will be useless on a poor and flimsy foundation, so the answer to the question of how to properly build an extension to a house is to choose the right foundation. There are three main types of foundation:

monolithic made of reinforced concrete, ;
columnar.

Foundation for an extension

The first option is universal, it is suitable for all types of buildings, the same applies to a columnar foundation. The pile version is suitable for adding a light veranda or utility room that is insignificant in weight and massiveness. This option is distinguished by its ease of implementation and pace of construction.

The first step to pouring the foundation should be research papers for soil studies. This is done by specialized enterprises; it is extremely difficult to do this on your own, and the costs for the services of these specialists are incomparably small compared to the cost of losing the entire extension.

After issuing recommendations on the type, depth of the foundation and the need to tie it to the main building, they begin marking on site. The contour is measured very carefully, observing the geometry of the corners, so as not to adjust the trench during work.

They begin to dig a trench from the lowest angle, maintaining the required depth. It is best to immediately install temporary supports to prevent the walls from collapsing. When the excavation work is completed, a cushion of sand and crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand 100-150 mm thick. It is compacted well, and the same layer of crushed stone is poured on top. Since we are building an extension to the house with our own hands, all work is carried out efficiently and conscientiously.

Floor installation

The construction of frame walls will be relatively universal. The technology is little known to a wide range of the population, so many treat it with distrust, and completely in vain.

Popular frame walls

A frame wall is not a simple structure. It is complex and multi-layered. Those who want to use this particular method often do not know how to make an extension using walls of this design. Wooden frame consists of upper and lower wall trim. Auxiliary beams and racks are used to obtain the necessary structural rigidity, and doors and windows are placed between the crossbars.

The finished wall frame is sheathed on both sides with boards, forming a void, which is filled with insulation, a protective membrane and, without fail, a vapor barrier. A vapor barrier layer is required. It prevents moisture from getting inside along with warm air from inside the room. Wet insulation loses its properties, and in addition, moisture is very destructive to the wooden base of the house.

The problem of insulation can be solved by all kinds of mineral and glass materials, which are now offered in a large assortment by the construction materials market.

The construction of frame walls begins by attaching horizontal framing beams to the foundation. This is usually done using metal anchors. It is especially worth mentioning that the waterproofing layer of the foundation must already be laid, and the lower beam must be attached on top of it. Next, the corner and load-bearing posts of the frame are mounted on the lower frame, which are fixed to provide rigidity with braces.
The top trim is laid on top of the posts, which are fastened with straight spikes. Sheathing and internal insulation produced from inside the house. Moving outwards, the installation sequence is as follows: first the internal lining, then the vapor barrier, glass or mineral insulation, and finally a windproof layer. The whole thing is covered with external cladding.

The outer cladding must have good moisture protection qualities and be resistant to wind and all kinds of weather conditions. Typically this material is “lining” or non-profiled planed board. They must be nailed horizontally. The “lining” is attached with the inner ridge upward, and a regular board with an overlap and an overhang one above the other. This scheme allows you to reliably protect the inner layer of insulation from moisture, slanting rain and snowstorms.

When building an extension to a house, you can use almost any material. It is important to remember that some of them are toxic and unsuitable for use. internal lining. Fiberboards, plywood or plasterboard will be an excellent basis for further improvement of the interior.

Roof construction

Typically, a single-pitch option is chosen for the roof of an extension. With this option, the angle of inclination should be at least 25-30˚. Having determined the angle of inclination, the timber is secured to the main part of the building. The lower support will be the wall, its outer edge, or the laid floors of the new building. The edge of the roof must protrude at least 300 mm. from the wall, for maximum protection from precipitation. After installing the rafters, the main roof is installed, if it is a rigid roof. When choosing flexible tiles, a base is additionally laid in the form of plywood or a similar material.

Floor installation and interior work

The choice of floor will be dictated by the purpose of the structure. For the residential option, insulation is required by installing wooden beams and laying insulation; it is also possible to install a heated floor. For a garage or storage room, a concrete floor is quite suitable. You need to approach this issue on a purely individual basis. The same applies to interior decoration.

Having studied the materials in this article, there should be no questions left about how to properly make an extension to a wooden house, since the choice of material and construction stages are similar and are suitable for such a construction.

Time passes, and it turns out that the private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. How to do this efficiently and without extra costs, we'll tell you in the article.

Save money without harming quality – requirements for premises and materials

Poorly thought out design of an extension will eventually force something to be redone or completed, or added to country house. In order to avoid getting into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with choosing a location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific characteristics in connection with its use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing, and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in a country house, then this is tantamount to building a small house. It is necessary to reliably insulate and prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Another common type of extension is kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about utilities and install them even before construction begins. It is much more convenient to lay sewer and water pipes before pouring the foundation than to dig underneath it later. Increased attention requires waterproofing flooring. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then you can save on this.

The house is being expanded by adding a veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holiday, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many variants: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing the foundation is necessary.

The extension to the house must be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has external decoration, then it will not be difficult to repeat it in the attached room. All materials go well with wood, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:

it is built quickly, literally in a few months;
does not require a capital foundation because it is lightweight;
without special knowledge and skills, it can be built with your own hands;
will cost less.

The foundation for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching a structure to a house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this regard, frame structures that do not shrink vertically compare favorably.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows off. If this is an extension to a side wall, then the roof follows the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For the columnar foundation of an extension to a house, concrete, brick, or a combination of both are used. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input will be required engineering communications to the house. Since the protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, such expenses can be incurred, and it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards; for concrete, you will need a lot of backfill material and a fence around the perimeter.

We start by marking the area, the installation locations of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate hole of 50x50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than freezing of the soil. At the top we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a 10 cm layer of sand, carefully compact it, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted.

We lay out the film for waterproofing and bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, pour a little concrete mortar into each hole for the base and wait for it to set. When planning concrete pillars, we tie reinforcement at the top along the entire height and lower them into the pits. We ensure equal distance between the walls. We place pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make formwork for the base, inside which we run the film. We pour the concrete in layers, pierce each layer several times with a rod to release air bubbles. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it sets, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, water heavily and cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation reaches the required strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the pillars and immediately glue pieces of roofing felt for waterproofing. There is space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill in to insulate the floor. We use ordinary soil mixed with crushed stone or pieces of brick. Fill in layers of 10 cm and tamp. The technology for constructing a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.

Getting started - bottom frame and extension floor

So, we stopped at frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for wood to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bitumen mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we make the bottom trim. Usually 150x150 mm timber is used, but it is possible to use 150x50 mm boards. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, aligned with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes under the studs and connect them. If it is strip, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then lay it down. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The result is a binding of the required thickness, which also has additional advantages:

costs much less than beams;
It’s very easy to connect them together, but with bars it’s more difficult.

We attach the bottom frame to the beds from the same 150x50 mm boards, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next we install logs made of similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the trim board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now let's start insulating the floor. The cheapest, although not very environmentally friendly option, is tile polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg/m3. Its advantage is that it is the only insulation material that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50x50 mm bars to the lower edges of the logs, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the bottom and top rows overlap.

The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. To prevent it from warping over time, we lay it alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we place one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if there are edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We lay it directly along the joists.

Wall installation - two assembly technologies

There are two technologies for assembling frame buildings. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is immediately sheathed, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. A shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; assistants will be needed.

We begin the construction of the frame with the corner posts. For them and intermediate posts we use timber 150×150 mm or even 100×100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We position the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. This way we will save on waste-free use of material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be carried out simply and reliably using metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the stand, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will cause the entire extension to bend.

Temporary bevels, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the casing is made of hard and durable material like plywood, OSB, GVK, it is capable of independently strengthening the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary slopes. When soft material is planned for the cladding: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be avoided. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

At the places where windows and doors are installed, we attach crossbars. We make double racks next to them: they experience increased loads and must be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor joists were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150x50 boards on the edge.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of the racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and technology

The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one; all that remains is to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is made of a pitched roof. The slope is ensured by the difference in height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.

The roof is supported by rafters, which we lay on beams. They are made from thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground according to a template so that they are all the same. Then after installation in place there will be no need to align horizontally. We treat the grooves with mastic, install them and fasten them to the walls with brackets and metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the sheathing on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material we make it continuous or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for continuous wooden flooring arises when using soft material; we make sparse material for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten corrugated sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws having sealing washers, and ondulin with nails with a wide head. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.

Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension

Mineral wool and polystyrene foam are mainly used to insulate buildings. Mineral wool resists fire and has low thermal conductivity. They are light in weight and have a consumer-friendly release form: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation material is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, rotting. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it, and in case of fire it emits toxic gases.

We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:

1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips required sizes. We fasten with staples using construction stapler, so as to ensure overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. Place insulation between the studs. We ensure a tight fit to the wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
3. We attach the vapor barrier, even if we use polystyrene foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the wood. We perform fastening in the same way as waterproofing.
4. We cover the walls from the inside. We use plasterboard over a perfectly flat frame or OSB if there are any unevenness. It is tougher and smoothes out imperfections.

All that remains is the interior and exterior decoration, which leaves room for the owner’s imagination. A frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, lasts for decades, and can be built with virtually no outside help.

Solving the housing problem if you have your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

full-fledged living space - additional room;
living space with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace a cellar;
a spacious terrace or veranda where you can relax with the whole family;
garage for cars.

Below we will discuss the basics of technology and step-by-step instruction creating an extension to a wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for constructing an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. Perhaps you should immediately plan to create an extension in which it will be possible to live year-round - in case of family expansion or arrival large quantity guests.

Types of extensions

There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:

frame extensions;
from cylindrical timber;
made of brick;
from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and the specific type of extension:

Do right choice of a specific extension project means correctly correlating the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structure is built.

Do-it-yourself frame extension: step-by-step instructions and video

A frame extension has a number of advantages:

the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
it is erected much faster than brick and cinder block structures;
the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
In terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, a frame extension to a house is not inferior to others types of structures.

NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, it is worth considering this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risk of subsidence is noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

At the preparatory stage, it is important to solve the following tasks:

What will the frame material be? wooden beams or metal profiles.
What type of extension will be connected to the main building?
Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
Collect all necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide what type of structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof to install a single roof, or as an adjacent building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, simpler and faster - the extension will simply be adjacent to the wall. You can make access from the house directly into it if you make an appropriate hole and install a door.

A diagram of the connection between the structure and the house is presented below.

Structurally, this solution consists of a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly made of rafters and support boards. For a longer service life, it is advisable to insulate it and lay out a layer of waterproofing. As a rule, it is based on a regular strip foundation.

Interface with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

wall;
roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. Preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice things to consider before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated sheeting (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles and metal tiles are not suitable.

The frame is made of wood or metal. In this case, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.

NOTE. Even if the house is good condition, but quite old, then the rate of its subsidence will be several times higher than the subsidence of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of connection of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - “groove-ridge”.

As for tools, you don’t need any special equipment: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other tools for working with wood.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.

Laying the foundation

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the vast majority of cases, the construction of a house does not involve the construction of a foundation for an extension, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also reliably connected to the main foundation.

NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after some time, but laying the foundation along with the base of the main building is technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single whole, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are the following:

reliability – stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and laying depth;
the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for extensions, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. However, installation features always depend on the type of soil. You can lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, and fill them with drainage materials.

Schematic diagrams of the bases are presented in the figure.

The technology for constructing a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and filled with concrete.

Connecting the foundation to the main one

This is the most critical stage. which needs special attention. Traditionally, two types of connections are used:

"tape-tape";
"slab-slab".

According to the “tape-to-tape” type, the stages of work will be as follows:

On the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of the main foundation.
Next, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house; a wooden wedge is used for this.
The foundation of the extension is formed using the driven reinforcement.

Installation according to the “slab-to-slab” scheme is possible in 2 cases:

the width of the main foundation allows for appropriate work (from 450 mm);
the plate protrudes from the base (at least 300 mm).

Thanks to an extension, it is often possible to solve another important problem - strengthening the old foundation and thereby supporting a sagging house. Visual video instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Installation of flooring in an extension

Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:

thermal insulation;
surface evenness.

It is important to make a high-quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.

The strip foundation allows you to install both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is only possible to produce a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:

The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

A floor created on the basis of wooden floors is perfect for a columnar or strip foundation. It needs additional processing to avoid rotting, however wood flooring much warmer than concrete.

The installation sequence for a wooden floor looks like this:

If an extension to a house is being built as a permanent structure, then preparatory work for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as in the case of a concrete floor.
A roofing felt substrate is placed on the foundation.
Load-bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the pillars, the length is adjusted in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate pillars at a certain interval or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully treated with varnish to prevent rotting.

A clear example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is associated with the direct construction of the frame structure. To do this, you first need to install the strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness will be 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

The end result is a design that looks something like this.

Cutting out the groove in the base can be done completely or incompletely. Can be jointed without cutting using a steel angle.

The lower harness is performed in several stages:

The nest is mounted in the insert.
The overlay is nailed into the base.
The support post is secured with a bracket.

The top trim is formed for reliable installation of the floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. The interval between vertical supports should be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be possible to easily lay insulation ( mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.

The construction of walls occurs according to the following algorithm:

Installation of a pre-fabricated lower trim on the foundation. The harness is screwed using dowels.

A waterproofing layer - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material - must be placed between the piping and the foundations.

Vertical beams are nailed to the wall of the house if rigid fastening of two structures is expected. If you just need to build a nearby building, then first make corner posts with temporary fastening.
Vertical bars are installed. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection to the main roof of the house.
Next, the top trim is mounted.
The last stage in installation is making holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If you plan to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately, installing all the beams on the lower frame. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element using temporary slopes.

Assembling the roof and connecting it to the main roof

Installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a regular roof, however, the need to connect the roof with the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

In general finished design can be schematically depicted as follows.

After erecting the frame, the roof material of the house on the side of the extension must be disassembled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to place an additional beam in front of the acute corner (shown by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, which is why they are also called snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

The rafters from the extension are mounted with top harness frame.
The upper end of the rafters is connected to a purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or attached directly to the roof rafters.

Video installation features

NOTE. You should not connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid manner. This can damage the structure due to uneven rates of shrinkage of the main room and the extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that ensures free movement of the lower support.

Finishing and insulation of the roof

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. If the roof of the extension simply adjoins the wall of the house, and does not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and insulation of walls

One of last stages– construction of walls and their insulation. An extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for economic purposes, it is important to create sufficiently good insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.

The structure of the wall can be schematically represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be done:

finishing work inside the extension:
exterior cladding of the building;
creating a transition to the house;
production of windows and doors in the building;
carrying out all necessary communications.

All wooden structures It is important to treat with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature changes.

Timber extension

The fundamental stages of constructing an extension (pouring the foundation, constructing walls and installing the roof with subsequent insulation and finishing works) do not depend on the choice of specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Construction of the foundation

In the case of an extension made of timber (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame analogue, accordingly, the base needs to be more reliable.

Often a tiled foundation or a pile foundation is used, less often a strip foundation (for small extensions it is quite suitable). In any case, it must be established for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cost reduction of work, the most the best option will be the creation of a pile foundation, which can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - basic technology for installing a pile foundation

Walling

Building walls is quite simple from a technological point of view. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it.

The fastening materials used are:

metal staples and plates;

brackets;
steel corners;
self-tapping screws, screws, nails.

Technology for laying round timber when building an extension to a house:

Other works

The technology of wall construction, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.

In the case of building a structure from timber, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.

Brick extension

Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less frequently. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

Most often in such cases a monolithic foundation is used. In this case, the brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second similar floor or attic. Installation of floor and roof technology does not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.

Cinder block extension

And another cheaper and faster option for building an extension to a wooden or other house is from cinder blocks (foam blocks and gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The construction of a cinder block structure occurs very quickly due to its large size building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy or veranda.

And finally, a short video overview of the main stages of constructing a frame extension to a wooden house.

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