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Basics of photography with a digital SLR camera. Photography lessons from scratch

Basics of photography with a digital SLR camera. Photography lessons from scratch

Probably every novice photographer who is seriously passionate about his craft sooner or later thinks about buying a DSLR camera. However, you should not think that just purchasing a “DSLR” is enough to start creating masterpieces.

Of course, most SLR cameras are equipped with good automatic settings that allow you to take quite decent amateur photos - but it’s much more pleasant to use the capabilities of your camera to the maximum. And believe me, it can do a lot - you just need to learn how to use it correctly.

So let's start talking about how to take photographs correctly. SLR camera.

Focus and depth of field

Surely, when looking at the work of professional photographers on the Internet or in magazines, you paid attention to the difference in sharpness between the foreground and background. The main subject of the photo appears sharp and clear, while the background appears blurred.

It is almost impossible to achieve such an effect with an amateur camera, and this is due to the smaller size of the matrix. The sharpness of such images is evenly distributed across the entire screen, that is, all details have approximately the same clarity.

This isn't always a bad thing, and is great for landscapes or architecture, but when shooting portraits, a well-designed background will distract from the main subject and the overall photo will look flat.

SLR camera, having large size matrix, allows you to adjust the depth of field.

Depth of field of the imaged space (DOF)– the range between the front and rear edges of the sharp area in the photograph, that is, exactly that part of the image that the photographer highlights in the picture.

What affects the depth of field and how to learn to control it? One such factor is focal length. Focusing is the aiming of the lens at the object, providing it with maximum sharpness. DSLR cameras have several focusing modes, from which you have to choose the most suitable one for specific shooting conditions. Let's look at each one separately.

  • Single autofocus – the most popular and convenient mode in static conditions, in which focusing is carried out, as mentioned above, by half-pressing the shutter button. Its undoubted advantage is the ability to change the position of the camera at your discretion without lifting your finger from the button. The object you select will remain in focus. The disadvantage of this mode is the delay created by the need to re-focus on the object each time.
  • Continuous autofocus – A mode suitable for shooting moving subjects. The focus moves along with the subject, so you don't have to re-focus each time. Of course, this mode has a number of errors: due to changes in speed and distance, the device is not always able to focus as desired, and not every frame will turn out successful. However, the chances of taking at least a few good pictures are also quite high.
  • Mixed autofocus – a combination of the first two options. When activated, the camera shoots in the first mode exactly until the object begins to move, and then automatically switches to the second. This shooting mode is well suited for beginners, as the camera takes care of focusing problems, leaving the photographer free to focus on composition and other factors.

Learn how to get rid of it early in your career and your path will be easier.

Always try to develop and improve. In addition to practice, theory will also be useful: a large selection of photo sites for photographers.

Good light is essential for high-quality portrait work. You can find out how to make a softbox with your own hands at this address:

Shutter speed and aperture

The second factor influencing depth of field is aperture value.

The aperture regulates the amount of sunlight transmitted to the lens by opening and closing the lens openings. The more the door is open, the more light it lets in. It is with its help that you can distribute the sharpness in the picture and achieve the creative effect you need.

You need to remember a simple relationship:

The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field.

If the aperture is closed, sharpness is evenly distributed throughout the frame. An open aperture makes it possible to blur the background or other less significant objects, leaving sharp only what you want to focus your camera on.

Excerpt– the period of time during which the shutter is open. Thus, the number of light rays that manage to pass inside depends on the duration of this interval. Of course, this directly affects the look of your photo. The longer the shutter speed, the more “blurry” the objects will be. A short shutter speed, on the contrary, makes them static.

In stable lighting, shutter speed and aperture are directly proportional to each other: the more open the aperture, the shorter the shutter speed - and vice versa. Why this is so is not difficult to guess. Both affect the amount of light needed for your photo. If the aperture is wide open, the amount of light is already sufficient and a long shutter speed is not required.

Photosensitivity

Light sensitivity (ISO)– the sensitivity of the matrix to light when the aperture is opened.

You don’t have to set the ISO value yourself either - you can use the automatic mode, in which the camera will select it itself. But in order to understand what photosensitivity is and what it affects, it’s better to take at least a few shots, raising and lowering ISO and comparing the results.

Its high or maximum value allows you to take pictures in low light conditions, thus being an alternative to flash. This will be an ideal solution for you in situations where flash photography is prohibited - for example, at concerts or other official events.

Also, ISO will help you out in situations where a wide open aperture and a low shutter speed result in an image that is too dark. But when experimenting with ISO, you will quickly notice that increasing its value also increases the amount of noise in the frame. This is an inevitable effect, but it can be smoothed out, for example, using graphic editors.

Shooting modes

A DSLR camera has a wide range of shooting modes, which can be divided into manual and automatic. The latter roughly correspond to similar modes on an amateur camera: they are called “Sports”, “Landscape”, “Night Portrait”, etc.

When you select this mode, the camera automatically selects the settings needed for the given conditions, and you don't have to worry about anything else. This is quite convenient, and photographs taken in such modes can be quite successful. And yet, if you set your SLR camera to manual settings, then you are provided with creative freedom, and a person planning to take photography seriously needs to be familiar with them.

So, what are they manual shooting modes are at our disposal?

  • P (programmed)— a mode similar to AUTO, but leaving more room for independent actions. Using it, you can independently change the ISO and white balance, as well as correct the shutter speed and aperture automatically set by the camera. All other settings, as in automatic mode, will be selected by the caring camera itself.
  • Av (aperture)- a mode that allows you to set the aperture value at your own discretion, without worrying about shutter speed - the camera will select it on its own. Great for portraits and other depth of field experiments.
  • S(shutter)– in contrast to the previous option, this is a shutter priority mode. It is easy to guess that in this case the camera will automatically set the aperture. Suitable for shooting moving and dynamic subjects.
  • M (manual)– a truly manual mode, in which the camera no longer interferes at all. All settings here: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are at your discretion. Using this mode, you can give yourself absolute creative freedom and try a variety of combinations in unusual conditions shooting. Of course, you should use this mode only when you really understand the settings of your camera and approach the matter with knowledge.

In everyday, natural shooting the best and easiest way is to use Av mode. It is the most convenient for controlling the depth of field and allows you to completely surrender to the artistic process of creating the best composition.

Flash

Built-in flash – faithful assistant when shooting in conditions insufficient lighting. But it, like other features of a SLR camera, needs to be used wisely. If handled incorrectly, there is a high probability of ruining the frame by exposing it. Here are some tips to help you avoid this:

  • Use manual flash power control, the value of which can be reduced when receiving too light frames.
  • Try it switch the camera to automatic “Night Shot” mode. Unlike AUTO, in this mode the flash action is “softened”, and the light is slightly scattered around the subject, without being fixed only on it.
  • Experiment with light scattering(we wrote how to do it here). To do this, you can use white cloth, paper or any other material that will need to be fixed before the flash. But you should not use materials dyed in other colors for this purpose - they can give the skin the wrong shade and generally have a bad effect on the photo.
  • Use your camera's modes discussed above - ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Having tried different variants, you will be able to find exactly the one that will make your pictures successful.

White balance

The camera matrix is ​​more sensitive than the human eye and sensitively perceives color temperature. You've probably seen photographs with strange lighting effects: faces in them may appear blue, green, or orange. This often happens when shooting in rooms lit with incandescent lamps. Setting the white balance on your camera will help correct the situation.

Of course use automatic setup (AWB), but then there will still be a risk of error. The best thing to do is to “tell” the camera what color white is, which can be done using manual mode (MWB). To begin, you will need to select from the menu of your camera manual installation white balance.

After this, it is enough to take any white object, for example, a sheet of paper, photograph it, and record the color as correct. The algorithm may differ depending on your camera model, but if difficulties arise, the instructions will help you out.

Choose a DSLR to start

When choosing photographic equipment to start with, a novice photographer should know about some important details, which you should definitely pay attention to when selecting SLR cameras. It is clear that you should not start working on expensive equipment. And not only because of the high price, primarily because, without knowing the basics, mastering the functions of a “sophisticated” camera will not only be difficult, but often impossible. Inexpensive cameras They have a lot of tips and automatic modes, which are simply necessary at the start.

Particular attention should be paid to the resolution of the matrix. These are exactly the pixels that are indicated in the main characteristics and on the camera body. But remember that for beginners it is better to choose a DSLR with a crop matrix.

If you're serious about photography, choose a technique with manual settings. In the future, this technique will give you good experience and the chance of great opportunities in this field of activity. It’s better to choose the camera itself from the list of the most recommended DSLR models for beginners, which are produced by well-known world manufacturers. Don’t neglect to contact those who have been familiar with photographic equipment for a long time and will help you in choosing the right camera to start with.

If the abundance of complex terms does not scare you, and you are still full of enthusiasm, ready to work and improve, go ahead! Some simple tips will help you on your creative path:

  • In order to learn how to take professional photographs with a DSLR, constant practice required. Try to take your camera with you wherever you go, and don’t miss the opportunity to take a good shot. Develop your artistic thinking! As a photographer, you need to be able to build the desired composition mentally, separate interesting shots from ordinary ones, and be able to notice what someone else wouldn’t pay attention to.
  • Explore your camera's modes and try different combinations. Don't be afraid to squat and take different positions to find the best angle. This way you will increase your chances of getting the desired result many times over!
  • Draw conclusions based on the finished material. Note your mistakes - you can even keep a special notebook for this - and try to avoid them in the future.
  • Consider the work of famous photographers. The more time you spend on this, the more ideas you will gain and the correct conclusions you will draw. On initial stages there is nothing wrong with imitating one of the professionals and copying their work. Over time, you will certainly develop your own style, but at first you should not neglect the experience of others.
  • Read relevant literature, watch video tutorials, attend courses, communicate with professional photographers. You need to be fluent in the technical side of the photography process, this will work to your advantage. Before you know it, you will become much more confident in handling the camera.

A DSLR camera is your ticket to the world of professional photography. By working, experimenting, and purchasing additional equipment - such as lenses and flashes - you can achieve the most amazing results. We hope that the information on how to learn to use a SLR camera will be useful to you.

Make the most of your camera, and let him become your reliable friend and assistant in implementing your ideas!

It is quite difficult to learn to take good photographs if you do not know the basics and main terms and concepts in photography. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give a general understanding of what photography is, how a camera works and to get acquainted with the basic photographic terms.

Since today, film photography has become largely history, we will now talk about digital photography. Although 90% of all terminology is unchanged, and the principles of obtaining photographs are the same.

How is a photograph made?

The term photography means painting with light. In fact, the camera records the light coming through the lens onto the matrix and based on this light an image is formed. The mechanism of how an image is created based on light is quite complex and many scientific works have been written on this topic. By and large, detailed knowledge of this process is not so necessary.

How does image formation occur?

Passing through the lens, the light hits the photosensitive element, which records it. In digital cameras, this element is the matrix. The matrix is ​​initially closed from light by a curtain (camera shutter), which, when the shutter button is pressed, is removed for a certain time (shutter speed), allowing light to act on the matrix during this time.

The result, that is, the photograph itself, directly depends on the amount of light hitting the matrix.

Photography is the recording of light on a camera matrix

Types of digital cameras

By and large, there are 2 main types of cameras.

Mirror (DSLR) and without mirror. The main difference between them is that in a DSLR camera, through a mirror installed in the body, you see the image directly through the lens in the viewfinder.
That is, “what I see, I photograph.”

In modern ones without mirrors, 2 techniques are used for this

  • The viewfinder is optical and located to the side of the lens. When shooting, you need to make a small correction for the offset of the viewfinder relative to the lens. Typically used on point and shoot cameras
  • Electronic viewfinder. The simplest example is transferring an image directly to the camera display. Typically used on point-and-shoot cameras, but in DSLR cameras this mode is often used in conjunction with optical mode and is called Live View.

How the camera works

Let's consider the operation of a DSLR camera, as the most popular option for those who really want to achieve something in photography.

A DSLR camera consists of a body (usually “body”, “body” - from the English body) and a lens (“glass”, “lens”).

Inside the case digital camera there is a matrix that captures the image.

Pay attention to the diagram above. When you look through the viewfinder, light passes through the lens, reflects off the mirror, then refracts through the prism and enters the viewfinder. This way you see through the lens what you will be shooting. The moment you press the shutter, the mirror rises, the shutter opens, light hits the sensor and is captured. This is how a photograph is obtained.

Now let's move on to the basic terms.

Pixel and megapixel

Let's start with the term "new digital age". It belongs more to the computer field than to photography, but is nevertheless important.

Any digital image is created from small dots called pixels. In digital photography, the number of pixels in the image is equal to the number of pixels on the camera matrix. The matrix itself consists of pixels.

If you enlarge any digital image many times, you will notice that the image consists of small squares - these are pixels.

A megapixel is 1 million pixels. Accordingly, the more megapixels in the camera matrix, the more more pixels makes up an image.

If you zoom in on the photo, you can see the pixels.

What gives a large number of pixels? It's simple. Imagine that you are drawing a picture not with strokes, but with dots. Can you draw a circle if you only have 10 dots? It may be possible to do this, but most likely the circle will be “angular”. The more dots, the more detailed and accurate the image will be.

But there are two pitfalls here that are successfully exploited by marketers. Firstly, megapixels alone are not enough to take high-quality photographs; for this you also need a high-quality lens. Secondly, a large number of megapixels is important for printing photos in large sizes. For example, for a full-wall poster. When viewing a photo on a monitor screen, especially one reduced to fit the screen size, you will not see the difference between 3 or 10 megapixels for a simple reason.

The monitor screen usually fits far fewer pixels than are contained in your photo. That is, on the screen, when you compress a photo to screen size or less, you lose most of your “megapixels”. And a 10 megapixel photo will turn into a 1 megapixel one.

Shutter and shutter speed

The shutter is what blocks the camera's sensor from light until you press the shutter button.

Shutter speed is the time for which the shutter opens and the mirror rises. The shorter the shutter speed, the less light will hit the matrix. How more time shutter speed - the more light.

On a bright sunny day, you will need a very fast shutter speed - for example, just 1/1000 of a second - to get enough light onto the sensor. At night, it may take several seconds or even minutes to get enough light.

Shutter speed is determined in fractions of a second or in seconds. For example 1/60sec.

Diaphragm

The diaphragm is a multi-blade partition located inside the lens. It can be completely open or closed so much that there is only a small hole for light.

The aperture also serves to limit the amount of light that ultimately reaches the lens matrix. That is, shutter speed and aperture perform one task - regulating the flow of light entering the matrix. Why use exactly two elements?

Strictly speaking, the diaphragm is not a mandatory element. For example, in cheap point-and-shoot cameras and cameras of mobile devices it is not available as a class. But aperture is extremely important for achieving certain effects related to depth of field, which will be discussed later.

The aperture is designated by the letter f followed by the aperture number, for example, f/2.8. The lower the number, the more open the petals and the wider the opening.

ISO sensitivity

Roughly speaking, this is the sensitivity of the matrix to light. The higher the ISO, the more receptive the matrix is ​​to light. For example, to get a good shot at ISO 100 you will need a certain amount of light. But if there is not enough light, you can set ISO 1600, the matrix will become more sensitive and you will need several times less light for a good result.

It would seem that what is the problem? Why make different ISOs if you can make the maximum? There are several reasons. Firstly - if there is a lot of light. For example, in winter on a bright sunny day, when there is only snow all around, we will be faced with the task of limiting a colossal amount of light and a high ISO will only get in the way. Secondly (and this main reason) - the appearance of “digital noise”.

Noise is the scourge of a digital matrix, which manifests itself in the appearance of “grain” in a photograph. The higher the ISO, the more noise, the worse quality photo.

Therefore, the amount of noise at high ISO is one of the most important indicators matrix quality and subject to continuous improvement.

In principle, the noise indicators at high ISOs of modern DSLRs, especially top-end ones, are quite good level, but it is still far from ideal.

Due to technological features, the amount of noise depends on the actual, physical dimensions of the matrix and the size of the pixels of the matrix. The smaller the matrix and the more megapixels, the higher the noise.

Therefore, the “cropped” matrices of cameras of mobile devices and compact point-and-shoot cameras will always make much more noise than those of professional DSLRs.

Exposure and exposure pair

Having become familiar with the concepts of shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity, let’s move on to the most important thing.

Exposure is a key concept in photography. Without understanding what exposure is, you are unlikely to learn how to take good photographs.

Formally, exposure is the amount of illumination of the photosensitive sensor. Roughly speaking - the amount of light falling on the matrix.

Your photo will depend on this:

  • If it turns out to be too light, then the image is overexposed, too much light has hit the matrix and you have “exposed” the frame.
  • If the photo is too dark, the image is underexposed; more light needs to hit the sensor.
  • Not too light, not too dark, means the exposure is chosen correctly.

From left to right - overexposed, underexposed and correctly exposed

The exposure is formed by selecting a combination of shutter speed and aperture, which is also called “exposure pair”. The photographer’s task is to choose a combination so as to ensure required amount light to create an image on the matrix.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sensitivity of the matrix - the higher the ISO, the lower the exposure should be.

Focus point

The focus point, or simply focus, is the point at which you “focus.” To focus the lens on an object means to select the focus in such a way that this object is as sharp as possible.

IN modern cameras Autofocus is usually used a complex system allowing you to automatically focus on a selected point. But how autofocus works depends on many parameters, such as lighting. At poor lighting autofocus may miss or fail to do its job at all. Then you'll have to switch to manual focusing and rely on your own eye.

Focusing by eyes

The point at which autofocus will focus is visible in the viewfinder. This is usually a small red dot. Initially it is centered, but on DSLR cameras you can choose a different point for better frame composition.

Focal length

Focal length is one of the characteristics of a lens. Formally, this characteristic shows the distance from the optical center of the lens to the matrix, where a sharp image of the object is formed. Focal length is measured in millimeters.

More important is the physical definition focal length, and what is the practical effect. Everything is simple here. The longer the focal length, the more the lens “brings closer” to the object. And the smaller the “angle of view” of the lens.

  • Lenses with a short focal length are called wide-angle (“shiriki”) - they don’t “bring anything closer” but capture a wide angle of view.
  • Lenses with a long focal length are called long-focus or telephoto lenses.
  • are called "fixes". And if you can change the focal length, then it is a “zoom lens,” or, more simply, a zoom lens.

The zooming process is the process of changing the focal length of a lens.

Depth of field or depth of field

Another important concept in photography is depth of field - depth of field. This is the area behind and in front of the focus point where objects in the frame appear sharp.

With a shallow depth of field, objects will be blurred already a few centimeters or even millimeters from the focusing point.
With a large depth of field, objects at a distance of tens and hundreds of meters from the focusing point can be sharp.

Depth of field depends on the aperture value, focal length and distance to the focusing point.

You can read more about what depth of field depends on in the article “”

Aperture

Aperture is the throughput of the lens. In other words, this is the maximum amount of light that the lens is capable of transmitting to the sensor. The larger the aperture, the better and the more expensive the lens.

Aperture depends on three components - the minimum possible aperture, focal length, as well as the quality of the optics itself and the optical design of the lens. Actually, the quality of the optics and the optical design influence the price.

Let's not go deep into physics. We can say that the aperture of a lens is expressed by the ratio of the maximum open aperture to the focal length. Typically, manufacturers indicate the aperture ratio on lenses in the form of numbers 1:1.2, 1:1.4, 1:1.8, 1:2.8, 1:5.6, etc.

The higher the ratio, the greater the aperture ratio. Accordingly, in this case, the fastest lens will be 1: 1.2

Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f/0.7 is one of the fastest lenses in the world

The choice of lens based on aperture ratio must be approached wisely. Since aperture depends on the aperture, a fast lens at its minimum aperture will have a very shallow depth of field. Therefore, there is a chance that you will never use f/1.2, since you simply will not be able to really focus.

Dynamic range

The concept of dynamic range is also very important, although it is not heard out loud very often. Dynamic range is the ability of a matrix to convey simultaneously bright and dark areas of an image without loss.

You've probably noticed that if you try to remove a window while in the center of the room, you'll get two options in the picture:

  • The wall on which the window is located will turn out well, but the window itself will be just a white spot
  • The view from the window will be clearly visible, but the wall around the window will turn into a black spot

This is due to the very large dynamic range of such a scene. The difference in brightness inside the room and outside the window is too great for a digital camera to perceive in its entirety.

Another example of high dynamic range is landscape. If the sky is bright and the bottom is dark enough, then either the sky in the photo will be white or the bottom will be black.

Typical example of a high dynamic range scene

We see everything normally, because the dynamic range perceived by the human eye is much wider than that perceived by camera matrices.

Bracketing and exposure compensation

Another concept related to the exhibition is bracketing. Bracketing is the sequential shooting of several frames with different exposures.

Typically, so-called automatic bracketing is used. You tell the camera the number of frames and the exposure offset in steps (stops).

Three frames are most often used. Let's say we want to take 3 frames at an offset of 0.3 stops (EV). In this case, the camera will first take one frame with the specified exposure value, then with the exposure offset by -0.3 stops, and a frame with an offset of +0.3 stops.

As a result, you will get three frames - underexposed, overexposed and normally exposed.

Bracketing can be used to more accurately select exposure parameters. For example, you are not sure that you have chosen the correct exposure, you shoot a series with bracketing, look at the result and understand in which direction you need to change the exposure, more or less.

Example shot with exposure compensation at -2EV and +2EV

After which you can use exposure compensation. That is, you set it on the camera in exactly the same way - take a frame with exposure compensation of +0.3 stops and press the shutter.

The camera takes the current exposure value, adds 0.3 stops to it and takes the photo.

Exposure compensation can be very convenient for quick adjustments when you don’t have time to think about what needs to be changed - shutter speed, aperture or sensitivity to get the correct exposure and make the photo lighter or darker.

Crop factor and full frame sensor

This concept came to life along with digital photography.

Full-frame is considered to be the physical size of the matrix, equal to the size of a 35mm frame on film. Due to the desire for compactness and the cost of manufacturing the matrix, “cropped” matrices are installed in mobile devices, point-and-shoot cameras and non-professional DSLRs, that is, reduced in size relative to the full-frame one.

Based on this, a full-frame sensor has a crop factor equal to 1. The larger the crop factor, the smaller area matrices relative to the full frame. For example, with a crop factor of 2, the matrix will be half the size.

A lens designed for a full frame will capture only part of the image on a cropped sensor

What is the disadvantage of a cropped matrix? Firstly - what smaller size matrices - the higher the noise. Secondly, 90% of lenses produced over the decades of photography are designed for full frame size. Thus, the lens “transmits” the image based on the full size of the frame, but the small cropped sensor perceives only part of this image.

White balance

Another characteristic that appeared with the advent of digital photography. White balance is the process of adjusting the colors of a photo to produce natural tones. In this case, the starting point is pure White color.

With the correct white balance, the white color in the photo (for example, paper) looks truly white, and not bluish or yellowish.

White balance depends on the type of light source. For the sun there is one, for cloudy weather another, for electric lighting a third.
Typically, beginners shoot with automatic white balance. This is convenient, since the camera itself selects the desired value.

But unfortunately, automation is not always so smart. Therefore, pros often set the white balance manually, using a sheet of white paper or another object that has a white color or a shade as close to it as possible.

Another way is to correct the white balance on the computer after the photo is taken. But for this it is highly advisable to shoot in RAW

RAW and JPEG

A digital photograph is a computer file containing a set of data from which an image is formed. The most common file format for displaying digital photographs is JPEG.

The problem is that JPEG is a so-called lossy compression format.

Let's say we have a beautiful sunset sky, in which there are a thousand halftones of various colors. If we try to save all the variety of shades, the file size will be simply huge.

Therefore, JPEG throws out “extra” shades when saving. Roughly speaking, if there is in the frame Blue colour, a little more blue and a little less blue, then JPEG will leave only one of them. The more Jpeg is “compressed”, the smaller its size, but the more fewer flowers and the details of the image it conveys.

RAW is a “raw” data set captured by the camera’s matrix. Formally, this data is not yet an image. This is the raw material for creating an image. Due to the fact that RAW stores a complete set of data, the photographer has much more opportunities to process this image, especially if some kind of “error correction” is required during the shooting stage.

In fact, when shooting in JPEG, the following happens: the camera transmits “raw data” to the camera’s microprocessor, it processes it according to the algorithms embedded in it “to make it look beautiful,” throws out everything unnecessary from its point of view and saves the data in JPEG, which you see on the computer as the final image.

Everything would be fine, but if you want to change something, it may turn out that the processor has already thrown out the data you need as unnecessary. This is where RAW comes to the rescue. When you shoot in RAW, the camera simply gives you a set of data, and then do with it what you want.

Beginners often bump into this, having read that RAW provides better quality. RAW doesn't give better quality on its own - it gives you a lot more options to get it best quality during photo processing.

RAW is the raw material - JPEG is the finished result

For example, upload to Lightroom and create your image manually.

A popular practice is to shoot RAW+Jpeg at the same time - when the camera stores both. JPEG can be used to quickly view material, and if something goes wrong and serious correction is required, then you have the original data in RAW form.

Conclusion

I hope this article will help those who just want to take up photography on a more serious level. Some terms and concepts may seem too complicated to you, but don't be afraid. In fact, everything is very simple.

If you have any suggestions or additions to the article, write in the comments.

Previously, SLR cameras were available to a narrow circle of professionals. Now, with their help, amateurs can also join the art of photography. However typical mistake beginners - having purchased a DSLR, consider yourself a great photographer and expect to get good photos. You need to understand that you must immediately learn how to use a camera, master the basic principles of photography, and only then you yourself and those around you will be not only happy, but at least satisfied with your work.


A DSLR camera compares favorably with a regular camera due to the abundance of different settings. Let's look at the main ones that can and should be changed and used.
  1. Excerpt. This is the time for which the camera shutter opens when taking pictures. The darker it is, the longer this time should be. The faster the subject moves, the shorter the shutter speed. Basic shutter speed values: 1/30 – 1/128 sec – acceptable for handheld shooting, 1/128 sec – step, 1/250 sec – running, 1/15 sec – cloudy weather, you need a tripod, 1/9 sec – poor lighting , you need a tripod. At long shutter speeds, you can only shoot absolutely motionless objects and you need to use a tripod, otherwise there is a high risk of getting “blurry” photos.
  2. Diaphragm. This is the hole in the lens that allows light to pass through. The smaller the aperture opening, the less light enters the lens matrix. The aperture is designated as f2, f2.8, f8, f16, etc. For getting good photo the shutter speed and aperture values ​​are consistent with each other: the smaller the aperture is clamped, the shorter the shutter speed should be. With these settings you can change the depth of field. When shooting at night, closing the aperture, the light from the flashlights appears in the form not of “balls”, but of “stars”, and the smaller the aperture, the sharper their rays.
  3. Shooting modes:
    • auto;
    • semi-automatic – P, allows you to change ISO, white balance and focus points;
    • Aperture priority – A(Av), semi-automatic mode with aperture priority, allows you to change the aperture, but the camera itself selects the desired shutter speed for it.
    • Shutter priority – S(Tv), a semi-automatic mode with shutter priority, allows you to change the shutter speed, and the camera independently selects the desired aperture for it.
    • manual – M, allows you to change all settings.
  4. Depth of field of the imaged space (DOF). A small depth of field indicates that the background in the photo is blurred. To blur the background as much as possible, you need to bring the subject being photographed as close as possible so that it occupies the main part of the frame. In this case, the diaphragm must be opened as much as possible. The shorter the focal length of the lens, the greater the depth of field.
  5. White balance. By default it is set to automatic mode. Experiment, choose the one that suits you. The basic settings are contained in the camera itself:
    • daylight;
    • machine;
    • cloudiness;
    • outdoor shade;
    • incandescent lamp;
    • fluorescent light;
    • manual mode;
    • flash.
How to hold the camera correctly?
Practice is key to getting good pictures. Take your camera with you everywhere, shoot, evaluate, try to process photographs, read books, attend master classes, look at photos of famous masters and try to repeat them. Do not use automatic settings, only with manual adjustment you will learn how to choose the right angle, focus, and apply different settings. Use your imagination and imagination and you will soon see that your current photographs are much more interesting and better quality than your initial ones.

How to place an object in the frame?

  1. Don't leave a lot of empty space. If you are photographing a child, for example, let him occupy as much space as possible in the frame if the side background (floor, grass, trees) does not carry any semantic load. Of course, if it plays an important role (ducks in the background, fallen leaves), then show it.
  2. It is customary to place the main subject of the photograph in the center. Experiment, sometimes wonderful and interesting photos are obtained when the focus is shifted.
  3. Basically, long horizontal objects are photographed by holding the camera horizontally, and tall ones - vertically.
  4. Don't overwhelm the horizon line.
  5. When photographing in the dark and using flash, do not move far from the subject: the light may not reach it.
  6. There should be no unnecessary body parts in the photo. Accidentally getting someone else's hands or feet will ruin the whole picture. Especially if it's a landscape shot.
  7. When taking photographs, do not stand in front of the sun: the object will turn out unnatural, and the photo itself will be dark. Remember that the light must fall exactly on the subject. Good photos are taken in daylight and outdoors. Indoors, choosing the right settings is much more difficult.
  8. When photographing portraits, do not get too close to the person: this will lengthen their facial features.
How to avoid blurry photos?
Reasons for blurry photos:
  • bad light;
  • hand trembling;
  • moving object;
  • Long focus shooting.
If you need to photograph a moving object, then shorten the shutter speed or increase the ISO. If you need to take a good photo in the dark, use a tripod.

To minimize the blurriness of a photograph, you need to position the camera correctly, use a voltage stabilizer, use a flash, additional light sources, a tripod, shorten the shutter speed, and increase the ISO.

When shooting in manual mode, shorten the shutter speed and reduce the aperture as much as possible. When the possible ranges have run out and the picture is still unclear, increase the ISO. In this case, the photo will have noise, but it will come out clear.

How to take a portrait correctly?

  1. Don't put unnecessary details in the frame.
  2. Other people's arms and legs will ruin the frame.
  3. The face in the photograph must be highlighted.
  4. Don't cut people. “Cut off” hands or feet look terrible.
  5. Shoot children from their height or slightly lower.
  6. Don't place your subject exactly in the middle of the photo.
  7. A portrait should show the main character traits of a person, remarkable habits, or reveal his essence.
How to shoot a landscape correctly?
  1. The horizon line should be 1/3 of the height or 2/3. Moreover, if it is located in the upper part, then objects located nearby come to the foreground. If you need to highlight objects in the distance, then the horizon line should be placed in the lower third. If the emphasis in photography is on the reflection of objects in water, then the horizon line should be placed right in the middle of the photo. There may be no horizon line at all - in photographs in the spirit of minimalism.
  2. It is important to choose a tone. For an autumn day - calm, for a night landscape - dark blue.
  3. Play with contrast.
  4. Follow the “perspective” rule.
  5. Use light wisely. Morning photographs are especially good, daytime ones can only turn out interesting if there is an unusual location, and evening ones are generally difficult to make unusual.
  6. Some landscapes look better in black and white.
Mastering a SLR camera is not difficult, you just need to devote a little time to it, and at least read the instructions. However, remember that a real professional will take an extraordinarily beautiful photograph with a simple point-and-shoot camera, and if you shoot completely thoughtlessly, then no fancy equipment will help improve the frame. It is not the camera that makes a photograph a work of art, but the person, his knowledge, skills, and vision.

Let's say you purchased a DSLR. And you have a question: how to take photographs correctly with a SLR camera? How is it different from a soap dish? Let's discuss this issue today. This article will be the first in the “Learning to Photograph” section.

Differences between a “DSLR” and a “soap box”

First of all, let's discuss how a “DSLR” differs from a “soap box”. In fact, this is the difference in shooting between these types of cameras. By the way, we discussed the types of cameras in a separate article.


A DSLR camera has a viewfinder. That is, unlike compacts, DSLRs often use a pentaprism or pentamirror viewfinder for sighting. Than “looking through a window” better screen, you ask. It's simple. Firstly, the viewfinder helps when framing - you have a frame, and you can see the edges of the frame even before pressing the shutter button. Yes, the screen has a frame, but it feels completely different. Secondly, DSLRs, paradoxically, have a mirror viewfinder. Its design assumes that you see the picture in real time. And this picture is live, not digitized. Hence, there are no delays when moving the camera, no flickering and other annoyances associated with the use of LCD displays or electronic viewfinders.

DSLR cameras support manual settings. Always. Yes, there are no “DSLRs” that do not have control over aperture, shutter speed and ISO (more on these parameters below). This seriously distinguishes a SLR camera from many compacts - after all, even point-and-shoot cameras costing 10-15 thousand rubles do not always have the ability to manually correct exposure using the three classic parameters.


DSLR cameras have a larger matrix. Physically more. The Matrix is ​​the most main element cameras. The matrix in a camera is as important as, for example, the engine in a car. And the larger the matrix, the more details it can capture. Have you probably seen how much clearer the photos taken with a DSLR are? Another advantage of a large matrix is ​​the ability to obtain better results when shooting in low light.

DSLR cameras have interchangeable lenses. That is, the carcass is only part of the camera. This provides enormous opportunities for creative implementation - this is one of the main advantages of SLR cameras.

How to take photographs with a DSLR camera? Camera control

So, we have discussed the main differences between the two classes of cameras. Now it’s time to talk about the main features of shooting with a SLR camera. First, let's talk about camera control, without this it will be difficult to understand.

Grab. Due to ergonomics and big size In particular, you need to hold a SLR camera differently than a point-and-shoot camera. The right hand should lie on the handle, and the left should, as it were, support the lens from below. The position of your hand on the lens allows you to quickly change the zoom if you are using a lens with a variable focal length (for example, standard lenses like 18-55mm, 18-105mm, 18-135mm, etc.). That is, once again - SLR cameras do not have a “zoom button”. Zooming in is accomplished by mechanically rotating the zoom ring located on the lens. And, for God’s sake, don’t put your hand on top of the lens - personally, my heart bleeds as soon as I see this.

On the left - how to keep your hand on the lens, and on the right - how NOT to

Sighting. We have already talked to you above about the viewfinder. It is preferable, of course, to build a frame using it. However, this is not always convenient. Therefore, in modern SLR cameras, viewing using the screen is implemented at the proper level. This mode is called LiveView. It is worth noting that video shooting is only possible in this mode. Also note that the viewfinder is not available when LiveView is activated.

Charging the camera. Unlike most point-and-shoot cameras, a DSLR camera does not need to be connected to the network to charge - you simply remove the battery from it and insert it into a special charger. Of course, this is more convenient than connecting the entire camera to the network.

Camera controls. Of course, cameras different companies differ from a management point of view, but their principles are approximately the same. Let's look at the elements SLR cameras, which distinguish them from “soap boxes” and may be unusual.

  • Many DSLRs have a large shooting mode dial. It contains classic options: “Auto” (A+), P, A (Av), S (Tv), M. Designations for Nikon are shown without brackets, different Canon values ​​are written in brackets. From left to right, these modes indicate: fully automatic mode, automatic mode with selectable parameters, aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode, manual (manual) mode. There are other modes on the wheel (story modes), but they are not the main ones.
  • In addition to the mode selection wheel on the camera body, depending on the company and model, there are the following important elements controls: video recording button (different from the shutter button, usually red), switch lever between the viewfinder and screen, ISO button, exposure button, etc.
  • Depending on the model, there are one or two additional control wheels that help when changing settings when shooting in manual modes. The wheels are usually located under the thumb and forefinger right hand(the younger line of cameras has only 1 wheel).
  • Older cameras have a second screen (on top), which displays the main camera settings.
  • Switching between automatic and manual focusing can be done using a separate lever on the body (Nikon), using a lever on the lens (Nikon, Canon) or in other ways. To clarify this point, I recommend reading the instructions, since, depending on the manufacturer, this function is implemented differently.

On the left you can see the shooting mode control wheel,
there is an additional screen on the right

A+ mode (“Auto”) and scene modes. I fully understand that not everyone wants to deal with manual settings. It is for those who are not interested in this, but only the shooting process itself, that they came up with the “Auto” mode. It is also called "green zone" because this mode is usually depicted as a green camera or a green letter "A+". In this mode, the camera selects the settings itself. In modern cameras this mode is implemented quite well. Of course, the “automatic machine” is not perfect - it is not capable of understanding your creative idea. Another question is the so-called “story modes”. They are found on amateur DSLRs. These are modes like “portrait”, “fireworks”, “landscape”, etc. These are also automatic modes, but they adapt to a specific situation. Also good for people who do not want to understand technical issues.

Mode A (Av) – aperture priority mode. This mode is considered manual. It allows you to control the opening of the lens aperture. Moreover, the smaller the aperture number, the larger the opening. For example, f/1.4 is the maximum aperture value for modern Nikon lenses - at this value the aperture is maximally open. By increasing the f-number, we tighten the aperture. The principle itself here is quite simple - the larger the aperture is open, the more light passes through the lens. All a beginner needs to know is that for portraits and low-light photography, it's best to use the widest aperture for your specific lens, and for landscapes, an aperture ranging from f/5.6 to f/11. The wider you open the aperture, the more blurred the background will be. Of course, an open aperture is only one of the components of beautiful blur (“bokeh”), but this is a topic for another article.

Mode S (Tv) – shutter priority mode. Less popular among amateurs, but no less important. Allows you to set the shutter speed, that is, the speed at which the photo will be taken. Speed ​​is usually measured in fractions of a second. For example, 1/200 sec, 1/1000 sec, 1/2 sec, 1 sec. In practice, in cameras this can be indicated differently - 200 (for 1/200 sec), 2 (for 1/2 sec), 1’’ (for 1 second). There's a lot to say here, but the gist of it is this. If you are shooting fast moving objects, it is preferable to set a fast shutter speed (1/1000 sec, for example). If you are shooting in poor lighting, then it is better to set the shutter speed longer, depending on the focal length of the camera (for an 18-55mm camera, for example, when shooting at 18mm, you can set the shutter speed to 1/30). The longer the shutter speed, the more light enters the sensor through the lens. Again, talking about endurance is a topic for a separate article. The main thing to remember is that the longer the shutter speed, the blurrier the photo will be; the shorter the shutter speed, the sharper it will be. This is a very simplified explanation, but the only one possible within the framework of today's article.

Mode M – manual, manual shooting mode. Everything is simple here, both shutter speed and aperture are adjusted manually.

ISO – light sensitivity of the matrix. This setting stands apart. Together with shutter speed and aperture, this parameter affects the exposure of the photo. The minimum ISO is usually 100, the maximum depends on modern technology. Today's best cameras are capable of producing acceptable quality at ISO 12800. What does "acceptable quality" mean? The fact is that the higher the ISO, the brighter the image, on the one hand, but on the other, the more “noisy” it becomes. I think you've all seen digital noise in point-and-shoot photographs.

How to take photographs with a DSLR camera? Some practical examples

As you probably already understood, this topic is limitless. And we won’t analyze it in one article. Instead of trying to cover everything at once, I will give examples of settings that should be used in a given situation. This will be useful for those who have just begun to study materiel and who are interested in it. For those who just need to take photographs, there is the “Auto” mode, which was described above.

We shoot a portrait with an 18-55mm lens. You need to get your subject as close as possible by turning the zoom to 55mm. In mode A (aperture priority), set it to the lowest possible value (probably for this lens it will be 5.6). Set ISO to auto mode. Take a shot. The portrait can be anything from full-length to full-length. With these settings you will get the maximum possible blur with minimal distortion. We are talking about taking a portrait outdoors during daylight hours.

We shoot a landscape with an 18-55mm lens. We choose the focal length according to the circumstances. Maximum amount space can fit into an 18mm frame. In mode A, the aperture can be stopped down to f/9. It is better to set the ISO to the minimum (100). With these settings we will get the sharpest possible shot. Certainly, we're talking about about shooting landscapes during daylight hours.

We shoot architecture with an 18-55mm lens. For narrow streets of small cities, it is best to set the minimum focal length (18mm). In aperture priority mode, again, set f/7.1 or f/9. It is better to set ISO to the minimum value (100). With these settings during the day, we will get maximum sharpness in the frame, which is important when shooting architecture.

We shoot macro with an 18-55mm lens. We choose focal length according to the circumstances, depending on the subject of shooting. In order to get as much of a sharp image as possible in aperture priority mode, you need to set the value from f/11 to f/22. This is especially true for shooting at 55mm at maximum zoom. You shouldn't set ISO above 400. Of course, there must be a lot of light for close-up macro photography.

We film at sporting events. Regardless of the lens, to freeze motion, you need to set a fast shutter speed. The shorter the better. 1/1000 is quite enough. Thus, you need to select S (Tv) mode and select the appropriate value. ISO can be set to auto, during the day it will not be too high.

conclusions

Perhaps I would like to stop here. I could write here for a very long time. But I'm afraid that in the end it will be a book, not an article. Thus, we will examine the remaining unexamined issues within the framework of clarifying articles. Concerning of this material, then I hope it will help you understand at least a little about your SLR camera and understand the main differences between it and a point-and-shoot camera. For this, let me take my leave. Good shots and good choice to everyone!

Video “How to take photographs with a DSLR camera”

2 videos were made on the topic of this article. The first is theoretical, in which I talk about the modes that exist. And the second is practical, in which I walk around the city and take photographs, commenting on the camera settings.

They will tell and show novice photographers how to properly hold a SLR camera, correctly set up the camera in different conditions photography, how to beautifully place objects in the frame and much more that you need to know to learn how to take beautiful photographs.

However, you should remember that free photography lessons for beginners are not Magic wand. Neither photography lessons, nor teachers at a paid photography school, nor a certificate of photography courses, nor a diploma in photography will make you a master of photography if you spend more time on theory than practice!

Achieving success in learning photography is very simple - take a lot of photographs, everywhere, in different conditions, and only sometimes, but regularly study the theory of photography!

Photography lesson 1

How to hold a camera correctly

You would be surprised how many amateur photographers don't know the basics of using a camera and still can't figure out why their photos don't look great! Many of them are already adults, having graduated from school long ago and even received higher education. Is it worth spending time learning things that everyone understands?

Photography lesson 2

How to press the shutter button correctly

Using recompose photography, the most important object in the photo will always be the sharpest, this is how professional photographers shoot. But sometimes it can be difficult to capture the climax of the events being photographed, especially if you photograph with a camera with a long shutter delay. You can reduce the shutter lag...

Photography lesson 3

Aperture priority or shutter priority?

Is it better to use aperture priority or shutter priority? The answer is simple - it depends on what you photograph! In Tv or S shutter priority mode, the ability to shoot a moving subject without blur will increase. On the other hand, if you want the background of the photo to be blurred, select Av (A) mode - aperture priority. However, in this case you may need a photo tripod.

Photography lesson 4

Part one

What is depth of field and how to control depth of field

If you look closely at a photograph where there are objects located at different distances from the camera lens, you will notice that with the exception of the main subject, some objects, both in front and behind the main subject, are also quite sharp... or, on the contrary, blurry.

Part two

Lens focal length and blurred background. First rule of depth of field

What is the focal length of a lens. What is the angle of view of the lens. What is the relationship between the viewing angle of the lens, focal length and depth of field (blurring the background in a photograph). Press the lens focal length buttons and watch how the depth of field changes depending on the focal length of the lens


Part three

Blurred background and lens aperture. Second rule of depth of field

In this Depth of Field tutorial, you will learn about a more powerful tool for changing Depth of Field. To see what a photo will look like with a closed aperture, use the aperture repeater - a button by pressing which you can forcefully close the aperture to a set value and evaluate the depth of field before taking a photo. Lens aperture switch buttons below the picture

Photography lesson 5

Basics of composition in photography

Please remember how you felt when you looked at a masterfully shot shot? What attracted your attention to the photo? It's hard to answer this question, isn't it? The thing is that a well-taken photograph attracts your attention on a subconscious level...

Photography lesson 6

Taking a portrait

Portrait is perhaps the most important type of photography. Not because if the photo is unsuccessful, the model may be offended, or even... :-) Because the portrait reflects not only external feature subject - a good portrait photograph always conveys the mood or feelings of the model.

Photography Lesson 7

Landscape and macro photography

Landscape and photography from a very close distance - what can they have in common? Landscape photography is the opposite of portrait photography, in the sense that everything in the frame must be sharp. For landscape and macro photography, it is better to use compact cameras with a small matrix...

Photography Lesson 8

Panorama photography

Panoramic photography is a relatively new and very effective mode available only in compact digital cameras. However, even if your camera doesn't have a panorama mode, you can still take a great panoramic photo.

Photography lesson 9

Correct exposure

Correct exposure is very important for taking a good photograph - it is the most important component of the technical quality of a photograph. Since the artistry of a photograph is partly a subjective assessment of the image (there are no comrades in taste and color, as they say), the class of the photographer determines his ability to take a frame with the correct exposure in any lighting conditions...

Photography Lesson 10

Equivalent exposure pairs

Let's imagine that you are shooting a portrait and you need a minimum depth of field - you open the aperture completely. To obtain the correct exposure of a photograph for the selected aperture, you need to select the shutter speed. Now, let’s imagine that we went into the shadows. The light has become less - the photographic conditions have changed... Are we going to guess the correct camera settings or take test shots?

Photography Lesson 11

What is ISO in photography and camera?

Do you know that depending on the characteristics of a particular camera and lens, the available shutter speed and aperture values ​​change, and it may happen that you will not be able to select a suitable exposure pair. If you do not have the opportunity to set the correct exposure pair, you will not be able to get a correctly exposed frame: o(What should you do? Will the frame be ruined by incorrect exposure?

Photography Lesson 12

How to take photos with flash

Why does the built-in flash often turn on in an automatic machine when there is already so much light? Do you know why using the built-in flash in a dark room is not the best option? best idea? How to eliminate the main disadvantages of the built-in flash and how to use an on-camera (external) flash...

Photography Lesson 13

Photography in unusual conditions

How to properly photograph a sunset. How to photograph fireworks or a carousel. Have you been told that you can’t take pictures against the Sun? You can get great photos when shooting against the Sun if you learn how to use...

Photography Lesson 14

Camera settings: manual mode M or SCN?

Many amateur digital cameras do not have a manual shooting mode M and therefore do not allow you to manually adjust the camera. But, there are camera settings that allow you to get around this drawback... But even if your camera has a mode designated by the letter M and you want to quickly master it, then this photography lesson will be especially useful for you - I will explain the logic of choosing exposure settings for often encountering stories.

Photography Lesson 15

What is white balance?

Have you seen color photographs in which all the colors came out with some kind of yellowish or bluish tint? You might think that this camera is not good enough... or something is broken in it... :o) In fact, any working camera (even the most expensive one that shoots in AWB mode can take such photos. It's all about the mysterious for a beginner, a setting that professional photographers often shorten to two letters - BB...

And yet: how to photograph your first photo masterpiece. Application of these simple rules And practical advice photography will very soon allow you to photograph your first photo masterpiece.

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