Photography lessons with a SLR camera. Learning how to take photographs correctly with a DSLR

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Probably every novice photographer who is seriously passionate about his craft sooner or later thinks about buying a DSLR camera. However, you should not think that just purchasing a “DSLR” is enough to start creating masterpieces.

Of course, most SLR cameras are equipped with good automatic settings that allow you to take quite decent amateur photos - but it’s much more pleasant to use the capabilities of your camera to the maximum. And believe me, it can do a lot - you just need to learn how to use it correctly.

So, let's start talking about how to properly take pictures with a DSLR camera.

Focus and depth of field

Surely, when looking at the work of professional photographers on the Internet or in magazines, you paid attention to the difference in sharpness between the foreground and background. The main subject of the photo appears sharp and clear, while the background appears blurred.

It is almost impossible to achieve such an effect with an amateur camera, and this is due to the smaller size of the matrix. The sharpness of such images is evenly distributed across the entire screen, that is, all details have approximately the same clarity.

This isn't always a bad thing, and is great for landscapes or architecture, but when shooting portraits, a well-designed background will distract from the main subject and the overall photo will look flat.

SLR camera, having large size matrix, allows you to adjust the depth of field.

Depth of field of the imaged space (DOF)– the range between the front and rear edges of the sharp area in the photograph, that is, exactly that part of the image that the photographer highlights in the picture.

What affects the depth of field and how to learn to control it? One such factor is focal length. Focusing is the aiming of the lens at the object, providing it with maximum sharpness. DSLR cameras have several focusing modes, from which you have to choose the most suitable one for specific shooting conditions. Let's look at each one separately.

Single autofocus – the most popular and convenient mode in static conditions, in which focusing is carried out, as mentioned above, by half-pressing the shutter button. Its undoubted advantage is the ability to change the position of the camera at your discretion without lifting your finger from the button. The object you select will remain in focus. The disadvantage of this mode is the delay created by the need to re-focus on the object each time.
Continuous autofocus – A mode suitable for shooting moving subjects. The focus moves along with the subject, so you don't have to re-focus each time. Of course, this mode has a number of errors: due to changes in speed and distance, the device is not always able to focus as desired, and not every frame will turn out successful. However, the chances of taking at least a few good pictures are also quite high.
Mixed autofocus – a combination of the first two options. When activated, the camera shoots in the first mode exactly until the object begins to move, and then automatically switches to the second. This shooting mode is well suited for beginners because the camera takes care of focusing problems, leaving the photographer free to focus on composition and other factors.

Learn how to get rid of it early in your career and your path will be easier.
Always try to develop and improve. In addition to practice, theory will also be useful: a large selection of photo sites for photographers.
Good light is essential for high-quality portrait work. You can find out how to make a softbox with your own hands at this address:

Shutter speed and aperture

The second factor influencing depth of field is aperture value.

The aperture regulates the amount of sunlight transmitted to the lens by opening and closing the lens openings. The more the sash is open, the more light it lets in. It is with its help that you can distribute the sharpness in the picture and achieve the creative effect you need.

You need to remember a simple relationship:

The smaller the aperture opening, the greater the depth of field.

If the aperture is closed, sharpness is evenly distributed throughout the frame. An open aperture makes it possible to blur the background or other less significant objects, leaving sharp only what you want to focus your camera on.

Excerpt– the period of time during which the shutter is open. Thus, the number of light rays that manage to pass inside depends on the duration of this interval. Of course, this directly affects the look of your photo. The longer the shutter speed, the more “blurry” the objects will be. A short shutter speed, on the contrary, makes them static.

In stable lighting, shutter speed and aperture are directly proportional to each other: the more open the aperture, the shorter the shutter speed - and vice versa. Why this is so is not difficult to guess. Both affect the amount of light needed for your photo. If the aperture is wide open, the amount of light is already sufficient and a long shutter speed is not required.

Photosensitivity

Light sensitivity (ISO)– the sensitivity of the matrix to light when the aperture is opened.

You don’t have to set the ISO value yourself either - you can use the automatic mode, in which the camera will select it itself. But in order to understand what photosensitivity is and what it affects, it’s better to take at least a few shots, raising and lowering ISO and comparing the results.

Its high or maximum value allows you to take pictures in low light conditions, thus being an alternative to flash. This will be an ideal solution for you in situations where flash photography is prohibited - for example, at concerts or other official events.

Also, ISO will help you out in situations where a wide open aperture and a low shutter speed result in an image that is too dark. But when experimenting with ISO, you will quickly notice that increasing its value also increases the amount of noise in the frame. This is an inevitable effect, but it can be smoothed out, for example, using graphic editors.

Shooting modes

A DSLR camera has a wide range of shooting modes, which can be divided into manual and automatic. The latter roughly correspond to similar modes on an amateur camera: they are called “Sports”, “Landscape”, “Night Portrait”, etc.

When you select this mode, the camera automatically selects the settings needed for the given conditions, and you don't have to worry about anything else. This is quite convenient, and photographs taken in such modes can be quite successful. And yet, if you configure reflex camera to manual settings, then you are provided with creative freedom, and a person planning to take photography seriously needs to be familiar with them.

So, what are they manual shooting modes are at our disposal?

P (programmed)- a mode similar to AUTO, but leaving more room for independent actions. Using it, you can independently change the ISO and white balance, as well as correct the shutter speed and aperture automatically set by the camera. All other settings, as in automatic mode, will be selected by the caring camera itself.
Av (aperture)- a mode that allows you to set the aperture value at your own discretion, without worrying about shutter speed - the camera will select it on its own. Great for portraits and other depth of field experiments.
S(shutter)– in contrast to the previous option, this is a shutter priority mode. It is easy to guess that in this case the camera will automatically set the aperture. Suitable for shooting moving and dynamic subjects.
M (manual)– a truly manual mode, in which the camera no longer interferes at all. All settings here: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are at your discretion. Using this mode, you can give yourself absolute creative freedom and try the most different combinations V unusual conditions shooting. Of course, you should use this mode only when you really understand the settings of your camera and approach the matter with knowledge.

In everyday, natural shooting the best and easiest way is to use Av mode. It is the most convenient for controlling the depth of field and allows you to completely surrender to the artistic process of creating the best composition.

Flash

Built-in flash – faithful assistant when shooting in conditions insufficient lighting. But it, like other features of a SLR camera, needs to be used wisely. If handled incorrectly, there is a high probability of ruining the frame by exposing it. Here are some tips to help you avoid this:

Use manual flash power control, the value of which can be reduced when receiving too light frames.
Try it switch the camera to automatic “Night Shot” mode. Unlike AUTO, in this mode the flash action is “softened”, and the light is slightly scattered around the subject, without being fixed only on it.
Experiment with light scattering(we wrote how to do it here). To do this, you can use white cloth, paper or any other material that will need to be fixed before the flash. But you should not use materials dyed in other colors for this purpose - they can give the skin the wrong shade and generally have a bad effect on the photo.
Use your camera's modes discussed above - ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Having tried different variants, you will be able to find exactly the one that will make your pictures successful.

White balance

The camera matrix is more sensitive than the human eye and sensitively perceives color temperature. You've probably seen photographs with strange lighting effects: faces in them may appear blue, green, or orange. This often happens when shooting in rooms lit with incandescent lamps. Setting the white balance on your camera will help correct the situation.

Of course use automatic setup (AWB), but then there will still be a risk of error. The best thing to do is to “tell” the camera what color white is, which can be done using manual mode (MWB). To begin, you will need to select from the menu of your camera manual installation white balance.

After this, it is enough to take any white object, for example, a sheet of paper, photograph it, and record the color as correct. The algorithm may differ depending on the model of your camera, but if difficulties arise, the instructions will help you out.

Choose a DSLR to start

When choosing photographic equipment to start with, a novice photographer should know about some important details, which you should definitely pay attention to when selecting SLR cameras. It is clear that you should not start working on expensive equipment. And not only because of the high price, but primarily because, without knowing the basics, mastering the functions of a “sophisticated” camera will not only be difficult, but often impossible. Inexpensive cameras They have a lot of tips and automatic modes that are simply necessary at the start.

You should especially understand the resolution of the matrix. These are exactly the pixels that are indicated in the main characteristics and on the camera body. But remember that for beginners it is better to choose a DSLR with a crop matrix.

If you're serious about photography, choose a technique with manual settings. In the future, this technique will give you good experience and the chance of great opportunities in this field of activity. It’s better to choose the camera itself from the list of the most recommended DSLR models for beginners, which are produced by well-known world manufacturers. Don’t neglect to contact those who have been familiar with photographic equipment for a long time and will help you in choosing the right camera to start with.

If the abundance of complex terms does not scare you, and you are still full of enthusiasm, ready to work and improve, go ahead! Some simple tips will help you on your creative path:

In order to learn how to take professional photographs with a DSLR, constant practice is required. Try to take your camera with you wherever you go, and don’t miss the opportunity to take a good shot. Develop your artistic thinking! As a photographer, you need to be able to build the desired composition mentally, separate interesting shots from ordinary ones, and be able to notice what someone else wouldn’t pay attention to.
Explore your camera's modes and try different combinations. Don't be afraid to squat and take different positions to find the best angle. This way you will increase your chances of getting the desired result many times over!
Draw conclusions based on the finished material. Note your mistakes - you can even keep a special notebook for this - and try to avoid them in the future.
Consider the work of famous photographers. The more time you spend on this, the more ideas you will gain and the correct conclusions you will draw. On initial stages there is nothing wrong with imitating one of the professionals and copying their work. Over time, you will certainly develop your own style, but at first you should not neglect the experience of others.
Read relevant literature, watch video tutorials, attend courses, communicate with professional photographers. You need to be fluent in the technical side of the photography process, this will work to your advantage. Before you know it, you will become much more confident in handling the camera.

A DSLR camera is your ticket to the world of professional photography. By working, experimenting, and purchasing additional equipment - such as lenses and flashes - you can achieve the most amazing results. We hope that the information on how to learn to use a SLR camera will be useful to you.

Make the most of your camera, and let him become your reliable friend and assistant in implementing your ideas!

I decided to make a topic with useful tips, which will be of interest to beginning (and perhaps “continuing”) photographers.

1) Selecting a DSLR camera
2) Preparing for shooting
3) Sorting footage

So, you have decided to become a “photographer” and buy a SLR camera. The question will arise (which has already been discussed on the Internet a million times) - " what camera should I buy?"

1) Selecting a DSLR camera

Somehow it so happened that there are two leaders in the SLR camera market, between whom there is constant competition - these are companies Nikon And Canon. In my opinion, cameras from other manufacturers lag behind these two leaders and will not be considered here.

DSLR cameras can be divided into 4 groups:
- Group 1- cameras for "beginners"
- Group 2- cameras for “continuers”
- Group 3- cameras for "advanced"
- Group 4- semi- and professional cameras

Last camera group - full-length(whose sensor size is 36x24mm), first three groups - the so-called " cropped" cameras (the sensor size of which is approximately one and a half times less). Full-format cameras are expensive (from $2,000 and up) and you shouldn’t buy them as your first DSLR. I would also not recommend buying cameras from the first group (for “beginners”), since its capabilities will no longer be enough after a year of use.

I think at least you need to focus on cameras second groups, and if budget allows, then as the first DSLR you can take a camera from thirds groups - the capabilities of such a camera will last you for a long time!

2) Preparing for shooting

The second action after purchasing a camera will be shooting. The last thing you can do when you buy a DSLR camera is use Automatic shooting mode. Therefore, it will be very good if you learn to use the so-called " creative"Shooting modes - " Aperture priority" (A at Nikon’a or Av at Canon’a), " Shutter priority" (S at Nikon’a or TV at Canon’a) and " Manual mode" (M).

Wouldn't hurt to read it User guide to the purchased camera and it is advisable to read several books on the theory of photography and composition. A large selection of books is located here - ... try to read at least first 2-3 books and, if possible and if there is free time, all the others presented on that page.

1) Try to take shots that will be interesting to someone else besides you and your relatives (for example "I'm near the palm tree" would be a good addition to a family album, but nothing more).
2) Before pressing the shutter, try to pay attention to the foreground, middle and background - there should be nothing superfluous in the frame (random objects, passers-by, garbage, trees and pillars “growing” from the head of the person you are photographing).
3) Pay attention to the horizontal or vertical position of the camera, this will reduce the number of frames with a “cluttered horizon” (when horizontal or vertical lines have a “blockage”)
4) If you take several shots, you will have a better chance of choosing the most successful one.
5) If you need to have time to capture movement, then take pictures in shutter priority, in most other cases you can shoot in aperture priority.

I would like to briefly expand on the last point and briefly explain how these modes work.

Shutter priority- the shutter speed is set manually, and the aperture value is automatically “calculated” by the camera. Aperture priority- on the contrary, the aperture value is set manually, and the shutter speed is “calculated” by the camera. IN manual In shooting mode, all parameters are set manually.

The shorter the shutter speed ( 1/500 sec - 1/4000 sec), the faster the shutter speed, the more you will be able to “freeze” the movement.
How less value aperture ( f/1.4 - f/1.8), the more it is open, the blurrier the background will be. And vice versa, if you want the foreground and background to be clear, then you need to close the aperture by choosing a large aperture number ( f/16 - f/22 For example).

To understand how the connection works shutter speed-aperture-ISO, you can use these links:
The SLR Camera Simulator and Beginner Photographer Trainer

Shevelenka(image blur when shooting handheld due to long shutter speed):
In general, if the plot is banal and does not require special conditions, when shooting handheld, you should try to ensure that the shutter speed is not longer than 1/f(lens focal length). For example, for a lens 50 mm you should try to use shorter shutter speeds 1/50 s.

1) If you are going to shoot in low light conditions, then it is very advisable to stock up on a compact one in order to avoid “blurring” the image at “long” shutter speeds.
2) this will allow you to select a low value ISO(100) to prevent digital noise.
3) at night it’s easiest to shoot in Manual mode ( Manual): try this - aperture ~f/8, shutter speed 5-15 sec
4) If the photo turns out dark, then increase the exposure time or open the aperture slightly, and vice versa - if the photo turns out light, then reduce the shutter speed or close the aperture.
5) It is advisable to transfer the focus to manual mode, focus in LiveView at maximum magnification on the screen (usually the buttons that are used to magnify images when viewing them).
6) It’s better to shoot either using a remote control or with a 2-second delay
7) The movement of the mirror can create small mechanical vibrations, which can “ruin” the frame when shooting at night. Therefore, it is advisable to shoot from LiveView mode - in this case, the mirror is already raised, which eliminates these micro-vibrations.
8) If, with an accurately set focus, a raised mirror and using a 2-second delay (or an IR remote control), you still get blurry, then increase the ISO by a couple of steps (from 100 to 400-800), which will allow Reduce the shutter speed by 2 stops. Higher ISO 800 On “medium” level cameras you should not rise, this will increase the noise.
8) When shooting scenes in which there are brightly lit areas ( advertising signs, for example), it is advisable to shoot with exposure bracketing in steps of +-2 EV. Then, from the three captured frames in Photoshop, it will be possible to get one “high-quality” frame, in which all the details will be visible both in the shadows and in the “highlights”.
9) And it’s better to take pictures during “regime time” (+- 30 minutes before and after sunset, when the sky is not completely black, but is also illuminated by the setting sun).
10) Always shoot in RAW, this will allow you to adjust during post-processing White Balance. If during the day the camera quite often correctly determines the White Balance, then at night, when shooting in JPEG, there will be a chance to get a brown sky.
11) If you shoot from a tripod at long exposures in windy weather, you can hold the tripod by the legs to avoid image blur.

3) Sorting footage

Once in Pasha Kosenko’s magazine ( pavel_kosenko ) came across the phrase:

“It takes 10 minutes to learn how to take photographs. In order to learn to make selection, you need to become an individual.”
(c) G. Pinkhasov

There is another good phrase:

A good photographer is not one who takes a lot of pictures, but one who deletes a lot.

You can't say it more precisely! Probably the most difficult thing is to learn to select the best, most interesting shots from the footage, and throw everything else in the trash (or in a long box “for later”)

I'll try to give some tips on selecting photos...

1) Sharpness. If it is not there, or it is not where it should be, the frame is in the trash. This is rule number 1. There are exceptions when the lack of sharpness is the author’s intention and such a frame looks interesting:

But in most cases, a “blurred” image is a defect.

ruber_kor , sorry for using your photos as an example

2) Plot. The frame should be interesting. Try to look at your photographs through the eyes of another person and try to assess how interesting your photo will be to other people. There must be some zest... there must be emotion... there must be a plot or story. (see examples from point 1)

3) Angle. When shooting chest-length portraits, it is advisable to place the camera at the eye level of the model (be it an adult, a child, or a dog with a cat). When shooting full-length portraits, it is advisable to place the camera at chest level of the model. Architecture, landscapes, etc. can be photographed from a very low or very high point - an unusual angle will add a “zest”. If you took a picture of your child from the height of your height, being too lazy to sit down, then such a frame will be worthy only of your personal family album. Of course, there may be exceptions, and sometimes shooting portraits from unusual angles also gives interesting results:

4) Composition. If there is an interesting plot, but in the frame the main character (or hero) has “cut off” arms/legs/head, then perhaps such a frame will not look good. Very often in the photographs of novice photographers you can find two common mistakes: a littered horizon and various objects (trees, poles, etc.) “growing” from the head of the person in the picture. If a littered horizon can (and should) be “corrected” at the stage of photo processing, then “removing” a tree sticking out of the head will be more problematic, so this moment needs to be controlled during shooting. There may also be exceptions... but in order to shoot with “clumsy” compositions, you must first learn to shoot with the correct compositions:

5) Lighting. If the frame contains overexposed areas (completely white) or “gaps” (completely black), then it is advisable to run such frames through RAW converter and try to get rid of such areas. If you don’t know how to use converters, then you can leave the frame for “later” and start studying the hardware.

How Not It is desirable to have light/shadow:

There may also be exceptions, but there is no need to make it a “rule” to constantly have highlights and failures.

How preferably have light/shadow:

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As can be seen from reservations - there are exceptions. But in order to learn how to make beautiful and interesting photos If these “requirements for photography” are violated, you must first learn how to take photos while meeting the “requirements.” In order to break the rules, you must first learn to follow them!

4) Post-processing of sorted material

Professional photographers pay a large role to post-processing of the selected material.

I often see statements like " Photoshop is evil!" or " I am for naturalness!"... I am sure that in 99% of cases such statements are a substitute for recognition" I don't know how to use Photoshop ".

If you want to learn how to get “candy” from your selected frames, then studying photo post-processing programs will help you with this. Probably the most common programs are Adobe Photoshop CS and LightRoom. The book will help you get acquainted with the basics of photo processing and give an idea of the main tools of these two programs.

For "inspiration" visit the portal http://35photo.ru/, and spend a couple of hours there, where, in my opinion, some first-class work is presented.

I hope my tips are useful to someone!

If anyone disagrees with the above or has any additions, please write!

I would like to note right away that this article does not pretend to be a complete presentation of the basics of photography. This is more of a beginner's guide to photography, aimed at enthusiastic beginners who want to learn the basics of photography and learn how to take technically sound images, but don't know where to start.

The basic and most essential setting of your camera is exposure. As you learn about exposure, you'll learn how to properly use your camera and ultimately take better photos. Once you understand the concepts of shutter speed, aperture and ISO sensitivity, and understand the essence of determining the correct exposure ratios, you can move away from full automatic mode and understand what your camera is capable of in different conditions.

If you only have time to study one aspect of photography, then, undoubtedly, you should start with exposure, or rather, by becoming familiar with its three parameters: aperture, shutter speed and ISO sensitivity, which have different meanings. affect both the exposure itself and other image properties.

If we consider exposure in the order in which light hits the camera sensor, then the aperture is first in its path. The principle of operation of the diaphragm is very similar to the operation of the pupil of the eye - the more it expands, the more light it lets in. That is, the aperture controls the amount of light passing through the lens by increasing or decreasing the diameter of the opening. In addition, aperture values affect other important indicators, the main one of which is depth of field, but we will return to its consideration a little later. I considered exposure to be something complicated and incomprehensible, but only until I understood the scale of standard aperture values. Therefore, I advise you to first study this scale, understand the dependence of the aperture values on its diameter, and try to remember all this.

Standard aperture scale: f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22

Excerpt

Next to the aperture is the shutter speed. It determines for what period of time the camera shutter should be opened so that the required amount of light falls on the matrix. Shutter speeds are directly related to what you're shooting and how much light you have available. Different shutter speeds may have various applications. So, for night photography from a tripod, set a longer shutter speed, somewhere around 30 seconds, and, for example, with, as a rule, a short shutter speed is used, about 1/1000 of a second, which allows you to freeze movement. But, as a technical technique and to emphasize the dynamics of what is happening in the frame, they set a shutter speed of a second, and then the moving object leaves behind a blurred trail.

When I got my first SLR camera, I began my acquaintance with its settings with shutter speed, because at that time I really wanted to be able to freeze movement in the frame and remove any potential blur from it. Although now, looking back, I understand that I should have started with the diaphragm.

Unfortunately, even with the correct shutter speed and aperture settings, it is not always possible to obtain a sufficiently bright and unblurred image. This happens due to lack of light. In such situations, you may find it useful to have an exposure parameter such as increasing the sensor's light sensitivity. The sensitivity value (ISO) characterizes the ability of your camera sensor to perceive light flux. So, at low ISO values, your camera is less sensitive to light and vice versa, the higher the light sensitivity of the matrix, the more sensitive it is, therefore, it needs less light to take a good picture. As a rule, ISO values are increased in low light conditions or when you want to capture something unique. But be careful, as higher ISO values increase image sensor noise or film grain.

Exposure metering

Not every beginner is capable of even difficult situation set the correct exposure. Therefore, I advise you to actively use automatic system exposure metering. Exposure metering evaluates the degree of illumination of the subject in the frame and selects the desired aperture and shutter speed. All you have to do is look at the display and find out what aperture the required shutter speed will correspond to.

There are 3 types of exposure metering: spot, matrix and center-weighted. In simple situations, when there is no sharp changes brightness, all three measurements will give approximately the same readings. But under more difficult shooting conditions, their results can be completely different. My advice to you: practice a lot, experimenting with exposure metering, remember, draw conclusions, and soon you will be able to understand and feel the connection between these parameters in your work, and setting the correct exposure will no longer be a difficult task for you.

Depth of field

When shooting in low light conditions, you always have to increase the aperture size to ensure that enough light enters the lens. But a wide open aperture has one rather impressive by-effect- shallow depth of field. And, although the blurred background obtained with a shallow depth of field allows you to highlight the main subject and can be used very creatively, it is not always desirable in the frame. There are many situations, such as macro photography, landscape photography, or when you want everything to be in focus, and this requires a narrower aperture.

White balance

White balance will set the main tone of the entire photo, and it is its settings that determine which tones will predominate in your photo - warm or cool. Since in most cases the camera's automatic adjustment is not effective, manual white balance adjustment is mainly used. This is especially true for situations where shooting is carried out with several lighting sources that have different color temperatures. Therefore, in order to avoid future disappointments and be guaranteed to get pictures with real color reproduction, I recommend that you learn how to set the correct white balance yourself as early as possible.

Focal length determines the angle of view of the lens, as well as the degree to which the subject is reduced or enlarged at a particular shooting point. By decreasing the focal length, we remove the image and at the same time increase the perspective, expanding the boundaries of the frame. And, conversely, when we increase the focal length, we bring the subject closer without changing our location. Depending on the focal length, lenses are divided into wide-angle (10-20 mm), standard (18-70 mm) and telephoto lenses (70-300 mm), and each of them has its own typical application. Thus, wide-angle lenses are typically used for landscape and architectural photography, standard lenses for documentary and street photography, and telephoto lenses for shooting sports events, birds and wildlife.

Crop factor

Sensor digital cameras captures less of the projected image than a traditional 35mm film frame, resulting in an incomplete and slightly cropped image due to the narrower angle of view of the lens. In other words, the crop factor shows the difference between the size of your sensor and the 35mm frame. This indicator is very important and is mainly used to determine the focal length of the lens when installing it on different cameras. The crop factor is one of those concepts in photography that you simply need to understand. By understanding what crop factor is, you can make more informed choices when purchasing lenses and using them in the future.

"Half a ruble"

For those who don’t know what “fifty dollars” is, I’ll note that this is the name given to a standard lens that has a focal length of 50 mm. Its angle of view is virtually the same as that of the human eye, so photographs taken with such a lens look most natural, even without any perspective changes. I would advise all beginners who want to master photography to start with the “fifty kopeck”, since, firstly, it is easy to use, and secondly, it has enough high quality at a relatively low price.

I'm not saying that all good photographs, without exception, include compositional rules. It may sound stupid, but in reality these rules are just guides, you don't have to follow them at all, but the more you know about them, the better understanding you will have about photography, the better you will be able to break all these rules.

This is probably the very first compositional rule any photographer comes across, and there's a good reason for it - it's quite simple, and it works flawlessly. The rule is that by dividing the frame vertically and horizontally into three equal parts, you can easily find the intersection points of these conditional lines, which will be the most effective zones, where the main subject of shooting should be located.

Visual weight

Visual weight is a fairly powerful tool in composition; it allows you to create visual symmetry, harmony and balance in the frame. It is assumed that each object in the frame has a certain weight in relation to everything else. Often visual weight is obvious, for example, between small and large objects, because it always seems to us that the larger the object, the heavier it is. If the dimensions are the same, the color of the item may affect the weight. By using weight correctly, you can more effectively draw the viewer's attention to a particular subject in the photo.

The principle of balance

The principle of balance is that objects that are located in different parts of the frame must be balanced, that is, match each other in size and color. Balance has a big impact on how we feel when looking at a photograph. So, an unbalanced photo makes us feel some discomfort, so everything in the frame should be balanced. It doesn't really matter whether you shoot symmetrical or asymmetrical photos, as long as you understand why you chose one or the other and whether there are reasons to justify that choice. Again, this is one of those situations where the more you know about it, the easier it will be for you to achieve the desired effect.

I hope you found my advice on the basics of photography for beginners useful and now you know where to start on your journey to photography. Thank you for reading.

When going on vacation or a long trip, you always take a camera with you to capture the bright moments of life, but how to take photographs with an SLR camera correctly and what parameters to pay attention to so that the photo makes you happy?

In this article we will look at all the parameters that you will need for proper photography while traveling, we will try to present everything in a way that is clear even to a novice photographer. After reading our article, you will no longer wonder how to properly photograph landscapes, portraits, architecture and other areas of photography. But first, read our articles about this and that.

Passing more and more different countries In the world, we are seeing the transition of all travelers to SLR cameras, but most of them, having bought a device for artistic photography, take photographs in automatic modes. Why pay that kind of money if a traveler doesn't even want to see what potential a DSLR camera holds? Or maybe he just doesn’t know how to take photographs correctly, perhaps that’s where we’ll start.

You can get photos like this if you follow the basic rules.

We'll start with matrices camera. The most important parameter for proper photography is carried by the matrix; the larger the physical size of the matrix, the greater the light transmission capacity, which means the photograph will be much richer and brighter in colors. On budget SLR cameras, the matrix size is 23x15 (crop matrix). In professional technology, the physical size of the matrix is 36×24 (full frame or Fullframe), with a full-frame matrix you can get amazing photos, but to properly photograph an object you will need some other parameters that are worth paying attention to.

Size of the cropped sensor relative to the full-frame sensor

A camera with more megapixels. For a modern SLR camera, a number of 18 megapixels or more is quite suitable, but many factories, under the guidance of marketers, manage to cram a huge number of megapixels into a small matrix of some point-and-shoot camera, which is impossible given its small physical size. You shouldn't expect perfect photos from such cameras! Let's give some advice, pay attention to Nikon series SLR cameras from D7000 onwards, Sony alpha series, Canon EOS with two or better than one digit before D"" (for example Canon EOS 60D).

All of the above series of cameras have a matrix that is not suitable for a wide range of consumer market, which means the quality of the matrix remained at high level in contrast to the lower series of these cameras, which are well promoted by marketers and which people fall for so well because of their low price. You already know half the answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly and choose a good matrix, but which mode is better to choose?

Manual modes are highlighted in red

Another parameter for proper photography is depth of field. Now you need to forget all the standard modes (auto, portrait, landscape...) and start using the “ Av, Tv, M, P”, for Nikon these are modes “ A,P,S,M" and others. For the depth of field mode, we need the “ Av” from Canon or “ A” from Nikon. In this mode, you can change the aperture number, which can vary from 1,2 before 22 .

Notice the blurry background

You've probably seen more than once how good photographers take a photo with a blurred background, this is the depth of field and it depends on the aperture. The smaller the aperture number, the more you can blur the background, but first you need to focus on the subject you want to highlight. For example, to properly photograph a portrait, you need to set your aperture to around 1.4 to 5.6. To photograph a landscape correctly, you need to set a number from 11 to 22, from such numbers the depth of field will be at its limit and the image will turn out sharp and realistic.

The second point to consider is that the focal length of the lens also affects the depth of field. The longer the focal length, the more the background behind the subject is blurred. The wider the lens angle, the less blur there will be.

Another factor that influences the question of how to photograph correctly is the distance from the lens to the subject and from the subject to the background. Let us explain, portraits need to be taken at a closer approach, having first set the depth of field to the minimum value (for example, set it to 1.4).

Here you see a blurred background in the distance and the subject two meters from the lens

For proper photographing of portraits, there are prime lenses or portrait lenses with focal length from 35-85mm (for such lenses the minimum aperture value is from 1.2). With such lenses, you are guaranteed a blurred background if the subject is far from the background and you set minimum number depth of field.

Let’s go further to understand the question of “how to take photographs correctly,” for this you need to study the shutter speed parameters. Nikon's shutter mode is designated "S", Canon's is designated "Tv". This mode is used extremely rarely and is needed mainly for artistic photography. For example, in order to correctly photograph a river that is frozen in your picture, we need to take a shutter speed of about 5 seconds, after such a shutter speed this is what we will get...

The camera is in the shade and the shutter speed is set to 5 seconds

If you decide to experiment with shutter speed, be sure to have a tripod, otherwise the entire image will turn out blurry. The shutter speed should only be used in the evening or at night; in the daytime, the photo will turn out just white due to large quantity incident light during a long exposure time. It is also worth considering that in this mode the matrix is especially susceptible to breakdowns and can simply burn out from the sun, for this they use neutral density filters or install the camera in the shade, the filters are put on the lenses and protect the matrix from overheating.

We won't open a big secret, if you don’t have such a filter at hand, then use regular sunglasses, which will give an artistic effect that will change your photo for the better. But sometimes, even with the longest shutter speed that can be set on the camera (up to 30 minutes), the image is still dark; ISO will come to our aid, being another answer to the question of how to take photographs correctly.

Photo taken on Lake Baikal using sunglasses instead of a filter

Light sensitivity (ISO) is set when you decide to take pictures in the dark. At night, when your photo turns out to be dark, but with a flash the photo turns out to be light and flat, the ISO parameter comes to the rescue, which should not be abused. Its value can be set from 100 to 12000 or more, depending on the SLR camera.

The photo was taken in the Tunkinskaya Valley with the ISO setting set incorrectly

To take photographs correctly with this setting, we recommend not increasing the ISO value to more than 6400; then “noise” begins to form in the shadows and your photo loses quality. In order to properly photograph an object at night, of course, many will start using a standard flash; we’ll talk about this parameter separately!

If you decide to find answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly, then forget about the standard flash. A photograph with such a flash turns out to be overly light and flat in volume, if you have extra money, then be sure to buy an external flash, you will huge step on the way to the right photo.

The photo was taken at 3 am in a watery Russian city with an external flash.

At worst, you can use the regular built-in flash, but with a little secret. So, let's take the usual one White list A4 format and close the flash, in in this case the sheet will serve as a light diffuser and will give the image light, light, voluminous tones, and will also remove the “red-eye effect”. This method is good to use in a dark room or at dusk.

On the path to success in the question of how to take photographs correctly, let’s go further and consider the sharpness of the lens. No landscape is complete without sharpness; to get the sharpest image, let's take a look at the lens parameters. The sharpest lenses are prime lenses; zoom lenses lose in this regard; they have blur at wide and far angles.

In order to take a high-quality, sharp and correct photograph of an object, to highlight it from the main plan, you definitely need a prime lens! But there is one big secret - all lenses have their own maximum sharpness number, this number can be calculated by taking several test shots at each depth of field and viewing the results on the big screen. Typically, lens sharpness starts from 2.8 to 11.

The haystack is located at two points where the lines intersect - Perfect composition!

Another most famous and main answer to the question of how to take photographs correctly is the rule of the golden ratio. Divide your image into two horizontal lines and two vertical lines, so the main subject should be at the two points where the lines intersect. Don't forget to photograph the landscape correctly. If, for example, you are shooting the sea and the sky, then either the sea or the sky should occupy more than half the frame (2/3 of the frame). This rule is called correct frame composition and is one of the important parameters Happy photography.

According to the 2/3 rule, the sky is only 1/3, because the entire subject of the photograph is located in a haystack located on the ground

How to photograph a portrait correctly without cutting off anything unnecessary? To do this you will need the cheat sheet below...

Proper portrait framing

We've covered everything technical specifications To answer the question of how to take photographs correctly, now let’s look at the usual life parameters, which you should not forget about during everyday photography and which will make it possible to ideally and correctly photograph your subjects.

The first thing you need to do is check the battery charge and take a spare battery with you, you will need it at the most opportune moment in your life. Don’t forget to check the capacity of your memory card when leaving home; sometimes it is full and there is only one copy of the photos on it. Don't forget, the more discharged the battery, the more autofocus will miss the subject.

For proper photography, you should also pay attention to the dust on the camera mirrors and lens glass; you can easily check this by photographing a light, plain background. To remove dust, use only a special pencil or other cleaning products for optics and the device.

Cleaning pencil for camera lenses and mirrors

Let's continue to get answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly and do not forget the attributes for the camera, if you are shooting in the dark - do not forget to take an external flash and a tripod, if you take artistic photography at long exposures - do not forget photo filters, a tripod and other accessories.

To take the right approach to photography, don’t forget to dress appropriately for the weather. Before you start shooting, check all your camera settings so you don’t miss important point, select the optimal mode and settings for shooting. If suddenly the battery runs out during shooting, and you have not yet photographed the object you need, turn off the screen, switch to manual lens focusing mode and lens stabilizer.

If water or sand gets into the camera, the first thing to do is remove the battery and do not insert it until the camera is completely dry. If you have a hairdryer at hand, that’s just great. Sand is a different story; sand can cause mechanical damage to the internal mechanisms of the camera, and then you are guaranteed expensive repairs.

By following all these rules and site recommendations described above, you can definitely succeed in photography. But in order to increase your authority in your own eyes, we recommend communicating with photographers on specialized websites and forums, exhibiting your photographs at various thematic exhibitions on the Internet, sometimes even making money from it.

Mount Elbrus was photographed at 5 a.m. to capture all the colors of artistic photography.

Well, all the answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly were written and shown. In order to learn how to photograph correctly, you should always experiment and forget about standard photographing modes. At first, pictures in manual modes will turn out dark, blurry and of poor quality, but after you click several hundred frames with different settings, you will see all the capabilities of a DSLR camera in examples of your work!

Many people think that the art of photography is simple. All you need to do is buy a DSLR camera and you can conduct photo shoots. But we will find out how wrong this opinion is almost immediately after the purchase. A lot of buttons drive us into a dead end, and the word “diaphragm” makes us open a biology textbook. In the end, it all ends with searching for courses or photography schools, which often require a decent amount of money and lengthy training. Is there any other option? Try to learn the basics of photography with free photography lessons for beginners. Check for yourself whether they will help. Lessons for beginner photographers are held free of charge, i.e. you still have nothing to lose. Are there any advantages to free lessons? Yes, there are a lot of them!

You get the same knowledge as in paid photography schools, but at minimal cost.
You yourself determine the time and place of the classes - you are not tied to transport, time, or a specific place.
You yourself determine the type of activity - whether e-books or video. Or you can simply ask all your questions.
There is no need to start notebooks and make notes in notepads - you can listen to everything again.
Theory is accompanied by practice, and this allows you to quickly understand the camera and learn the art of photography.

Are there any disadvantages? Yes, I have. You will have to force yourself to study on your own - no lessons from beginning photographers (even if it’s free) will make you get off the couch and pick up a camera. What can free lessons teach beginner photographers? Everything that is in paid photography schools. It’s just that the pace of learning depends only on the efforts you apply.

How to use the camera. The position of the camera, the correct pressing of the shutter button (yes, even this is important to know!), what is shutter speed and aperture priority? How to properly set up your camera? This is just a small part of what we will explain and teach.
The concept of composition in photography. Sometimes it is difficult for a person, especially a non-photographer, to explain why he likes a particular photo. A properly constructed frame attracts our attention on a subconscious level. And all thanks to the composition - it is with its help that photographs turn out bright, noticeable and interesting. Ignorance of the basics will lead to the exact opposite result.
Portrait photography. Taking portraits is not as easy as it seems. If you photograph a face close up without knowing the main laws, be prepared to see some freaks in the photo (under no circumstances show such photographs to models!). From what angle should you shoot if your head is down or up? If the face in the frame is at a semi-tilt, make sure that the nose does not extend beyond the cheek. And in direct proportion, the cropped arms in the photo add several kilograms. And these are not all the secrets of portrait photography!
Panoramic photography. This is a new and interesting direction that will definitely captivate you. Try it, and we will advise and point you in the right direction.
We photograph in unusual conditions - we break the rules, experiment, try! We can photograph water in motion so that the photo is clear, photograph bright fireworks and moving cars. How? And this is what we will teach you.

This is just a small part of the knowledge you need to know. Don't be scared - it's not scary at all. With a camera in hand, we always learn something new, and every time we gain new impressions and knowledge. The first steps are the most hesitant, difficult and important. But we will still help you overcome them.

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