A teak floor in the bathroom will provide a feeling of comfort and warmth. Deck teak flooring for bathroom: features and benefits Teak flooring

Burmese teak itself is a very common material with quite widespread use. But still, its main purpose is to use it in places with high humidity. There are a lot of such places, both outdoors and indoors.

The most popular places for using Teak indoors are swimming pools and bathrooms, the main reason for this is that Teak coated with oil when wet, unlike tiles, does not slip at all and, accordingly, the risk of injury on the floor or sides of pools is minimized .

The technology for laying teak on terraces is no different from any other type of wood, but in interior spaces there is very interesting technology installation of teak flooring.

Sealing joints between the boards is the main difference from the generally common floor installation. When laying terrace or deck boards technology leaves a compensation gap between the boards, allowing the material to move unhindered depending on changes in humidity and temperature in environment. Using sealing technology, all gaps between the boards are filled with a special elastic sealant, after which the board or parquet is sanded and coated with oil. The sealant is very elastic and during seasonal movements of the tree it contracts and expands along with the boards, preventing gaps from forming between them. First of all, the sealant was developed specifically for teak decking, because on decks water does not penetrate under it but sticks to the side, and polished teak coated with oil does not become slippery even when it is wet, but it turned out that it is in demand not only on yachts but also on the land. Using this principle, you can lay floors on terraces, around swimming pools, in winter gardens, in bathrooms (even on heated floors), and indeed in any room and using any type of wood. There is one “but” - no matter what the color of the wood, the color of the sealant is only black with a minimum joint thickness of 5 mm, and such a floor can only be coated with oil.

(click on the picture)

1. 2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

- We accept orders for the production of deck solids (shields) from Burmese teak
- Maximum size 4000x1000x10 mm (length and width vary up to the specified limit)
- Lamella width 45-48 mm, sealed seam width 5 mm
- Price in a panel without cutting 22000 RUR/m2

Our company also offers wooden mosaic made of teak, both in floor and wall versions.

IN floor-standing version The mosaic is made in the form of a two-layer module (7 mm teak and 4 mm cork). This mosaic can be laid on a warm floor, gluing directly onto a cement screed.

In the wall version, the mosaic is also made in a two-layer version (4 mm teak and 4 mm cork). With this design, the module is easily glued to the wall using contact adhesive for cork.

During the installation process, a gap equal to the size of the gap between the elements is left between the modules, after which the gap is filled with a special sealant, sanded and coated with oil.
The size of the elements and the type of wood inside the module can be any in the range from 30 to 50 mm.

Wooden floors in a room have always been considered the best option coverings. Solid wood floors create comfort, coziness in the room, and are pleasant to walk on. In addition, this coating is distinguished by its beauty and sophistication. Solid board for flooring is still the leader among all types of floor coverings. It especially wins in comparison with synthetic materials, which our market is saturated with. The peculiarity of a solid board is that it is made from a single piece of wood. Depending on the type of wood, dimensions and other characteristics of the product, the flooring acquires certain qualities that affect the scope of the material and the features of its use.

Criterias of choice

Before choosing a solid floorboard, you need to figure out what characteristics of the product you should pay attention to. You need to choose solid wood flooring taking into account the following criteria:

1. From wood density The scope of use of the product depends. The denser the rock, the greater the load on the floor. Such boards are allowed to be laid in areas with heavy traffic. The densest are oak, wenge, larch, and ash. Soft cherry and birch wood is suitable for rooms with minimal loads, such as a nursery or bedroom.
2. Product size different manufacturers is different. Thus, the thickness of the array ranges from 15-50 mm. The most popular boards are up to 22 mm thick. The thicker the product, the stronger the floor and the longer its service life. The width of the element ranges from 60-450 mm. Products up to 120 mm wide are most often used. Coating from narrow boards less susceptible to deformation. The length of the array ranges from 500-3000 mm, but sometimes reaches 9 m. Boards up to 2 m long are more convenient to transport, operate and lay.
3. Wood selection– this is its sorting by texture, pattern and color. This criterion also takes into account the presence of knots, stains and other defects. Since the tree trunk is sawn in different ways during the preparation of the material, the products obtained when making the board different classes selection.
4. Boards from different manufacturers are subjected to various factory processing. Most often, the manufacturer cuts chamfers at the ends. Brushing the board allows you to artificially age it. Factory processing also includes metal stylization and coloring.
5. Wood type affects not only the color of the future coating, but also its hardness, strength, durability and resistance to changes in environmental characteristics.

Wood selection

Let us separately consider wood selection, since it is very important point. There are two options for cutting a tree trunk:

• radial cut performed in the central part along the length of the trunk, such wood is the strongest, highest quality and most expensive, the color of the board is uniform, the pattern is uniform without knots or stains;
• tangential cut is carried out along the edges from the central part, as a result, the resulting products will differ significantly in color, the texture of the material is saturated, there will be knots on the board (these boards are less durable and more susceptible to deformation, but they are valued for their beautiful, varied patterns).

Different manufacturers sort wood according to different criteria. In addition, each company gives its own names and descriptions to the varieties. We will look at the most common ones:

1. Extra or radial– this is the highest quality board without knots and sapwood. The coating pattern is monochromatic with longitudinal lines along the board.
2. Select variety characterized by a slight variation in color between elements of the same batch. The presence of small rays on the surface is acceptable, but there are no knots or sapwood. The fibers are located along the element.
3. The variety of natures is characterized by a slight discrepancy in color. Knots with a diameter of up to 2 mm are allowed. There may also be some white sapwood.
4. Rusticism is characterized by a complete range of colors. Knots with a diameter of up to 0.6 cm are acceptable on boards. White sapwood is acceptable, which occupies no more than a fifth of the width of the element.

Surface treatment and coating

Solid boards can be coated with protective layers in the factory:

• Varnish coating done using special UV varnishes (see video). This allows you to speed up the drying of the product and create a thin transparent layer of varnish. Despite the strength and durability of such a coating, it can wear out, resulting in the need for sanding and varnishing the entire floor.
• Oil coating impregnates upper layer and does not create the same protection as varnish. Such boards are very similar to untreated products and lend themselves well to local repairs. The coating is very short-lived and needs to be renewed at least once a year.
• Wax coating performed with a mixture of natural oil and paraffin. The coating is not very durable, but provides some protection for the wood. The layer is easy to renew when worn.

Modern solid boards are often sold with factory decorative processing. Most of them are aimed at creating a covering with history (old flooring). The most commonly used for this is:

• Toning is covering a product with the thinnest layer or layers of paint. Typically this treatment is used in conjunction with brushing. As a result, the protruding parts of the surface pattern have one color, and the recesses have a different color.
• Brushing – product processing metal brushes, which allow you to select soft fibers and create a relief surface. As a result, the solid board takes on an aged appearance, emphasizing its texture and naturalness (see video).
• Planing will make the surface uneven, like working with a plane.
• Sawing is covering the surface of a product with shallow transverse cuts.
• Sandblasting allows you to obtain a polished relief surface.
• Aging. Sometimes a solid board is aged by applying serifs to the surface of the product.

Wood type

Depending on the type of wood, solid floorboards differ in price. The cost of the array ranges from $20.5-520. Below we list the main characteristics of floor coverings made of different breeds tree.

Solid oak board

This is a hard wood, so the coating is resistant to mechanical stress, it is strong and durable. The color range is quite extensive - from almost white boards with a yellowish tint to elements interspersed with green and gray. Annual rings, light lines and brighter areas are clearly visible. Over time, solid oak darkens, but the performance characteristics of the material do not change.

Important! The main advantage of oak is its high strength and hardness. The coating is suitable for areas with high traffic, including public institutions.

There are products on sale with and without varnish coating. The only drawback of oak is its high price. Behind square meter For such coverage you will have to pay $50-120.

Solid teak board

The photo shows examples of interiors using solid teak boards.

Teak wood is valued for its resistance to rot, so it is often used for decks, terraces and pool areas. Teak does not turn black from exposure to water and does not lose its qualities. The structure and shade of wood varies. Most often, the products have a golden brown hue with light sapwood and darker heartwood.

Teak is a representative of the tropical forests of Vietnam, India, the Philippines, and Laos. Teak wood also grows in East and Central Africa, the forests of Burma and Thailand. The tree is unpretentious to the soil and climatic conditions, that's why it's so common. Most wood, especially from Burma, is uniform in color. Indian teak is famous for its beautiful colors. In general, the color of wood can be different - from a light golden hue to brown with dark rich inclusions.

Under influence external environment teak wood darkens. Although experts consider this a misconception, claiming that the material only evens out in color. The coarse wood texture has a clear, pronounced pattern. Each board has its own original pattern. Characteristic differences of this material - stripes, dark areas, whitish-gray elements of the pattern. The direction of the fibers can be smooth or slightly wavy.

The durability of wood is due to its high content of oily substances. Because of this, the material is not subject to rotting. It is easy to process. main feature wood has a specific aroma, reminiscent of the smell of natural leather.

Anyone flooring its performance characteristics. Solid teak boards compare favorably with their counterparts made from other types of wood in a number of characteristics:

• Although the process of drying wood is quite lengthy, teak dries well and exhibits minimal shrinkage. Long-term, high-quality drying will allow you to obtain floor products with high stability and excellent cutting geometry.
• Boards made of this material lend themselves well to processing and cutting (only thin and sharp blades should be used). It can be impregnated with dyes, coated with oil or varnish.
• When laying teak flooring, it is permitted to use parquet board adhesive.
• To increase the strength and durability of the facing layer of the floor during installation, the material can be fixed with screws and nails. This will ensure a reliable connection.
• Flooring made from this wood can be installed using any method suitable for solid wood products.
• Solid teak boards withstand impact loads worse than oak.
• A board made of this wood can be broken along the grain. But its main advantage is high bending strength.

Solid larch board

There is an external resemblance of this wood to pine. However, its hardness is much higher and is comparable only to oak. Larch is different:

• a variety of light shades;
• due to its antiseptic qualities, wood is not susceptible to mold and rot;
• the material is suitable for arranging open terraces, loggias and balconies, since it does not deteriorate or deform from moisture;
• larch is very durable and hard, so the boards are used for floors in gyms, restaurants and libraries;
• the rock retains its color and size geometry throughout its entire service life;
• The wood is distinguished by its stable pattern and texture.

Solid ash board

The wood has a characteristic textured pattern and a rich range of sunny shades. The species is even stronger than oak, but at the same time it is characterized by high elasticity. Thanks to this, ash is suitable both for finishing floors in residential premises and as flooring for gyms and other public premises with increased cross-country ability.

Ash is actively used for the manufacture of flooring products. Floor coverings made from this material have high performance characteristics due to strength, density, viscosity and beautiful texture tree. Such qualities as ease of processing, lack of cracking during drying, contribute to the fact that parquet board Solid ash is one of the best floor coverings.

In addition, solid ash boards have the following features:

• Increased wear resistance of the front layer of the floor made from this wood is achieved due to the high hardness of the species. The varnish coating further protects the wood and increases the wear resistance of the floor.
• The high performance characteristics of solid ash are explained by the fact that the wood is a heavy grade. The strength characteristics of wood are directly related to the width of the growth rings. The wider the rings, the higher the strength.
• Due to the good elasticity of wood, solid parquet boards bend well, which is important for flooring. In this quality it is very reminiscent of beech.
• Floor coverings made from this material are durable. Numerous reviews confirm this. If varnish is applied to the surface of the product, the service life of the floor can reach several decades.
• The beautiful wood pattern is very reminiscent of valuable exotic species. But the price of an ash floor will be more reasonable than that of tropical varieties.
• Solid ash board is stable - it does not warp, practically does not dry out and retains the correct geometric shape.

Solid birch board

The product has a shade from white to pale brown. The texture of the wood is fine, the grains are located along the board. None characteristic features and this material has no special features. For many mechanical characteristics birch is similar to beech. The disadvantages of the breed include the following:

• wood is very capricious;
• the floor needs careful maintenance;
• subject to deformation due to changes in humidity and temperature.

Solid walnut board

Products are made from different varieties wood, such as American or European walnut. The array is distinguished by its extensive color scheme. So, you can find boards from light gray or beige colour to coatings with a dark brown tint. The wood has a very beautiful structure, consisting of purple, brown and gray inclusions.

Important! Solid American walnut boards are highly resistant to temperature changes and changes. humidity conditions in room. The product is not subject to cracks and deformations.

The main difference between wood American walnut from other breeds in the beauty and complexity of the pattern. The heartwood of the tree has a beautiful grayish-brown hue. But after processing, the wood acquires a rich dark brown color, shimmering with multi-colored stains. Beautiful shade and the unique pattern of this breed make it possible to obtain original floor coverings. Using them, designers can easily realize any idea in interior design. That is why other types of flooring are made from such wood, for example, walnut parquet boards, laminate or walnut parquet.

The special properties of American walnut wood make it possible to obtain strong and durable floor coverings with high performance characteristics. This wood is different:

• resistance to temperature changes;
• moisture resistance;
• geometric stability (the coating does not warp, does not dry out, forming cracks);
• American walnut is easy to process (products made from it can be polished, scraped, glued, sanded and varnished);
• wood density is 600-650 kg/m³;
• rock hardness – 5 kg/m³.

Solid maple board

Tick ​​- optimal breed for use in bathrooms. The wood is highly oily, so this type of parquet rarely needs to be coated with oil. Teak has a low density, which is good when used in a bathroom where the microclimate is constantly changing. Dense wood can crack due to internal stress; teak is practically free of this drawback. The golden hue goes well with almost any materials - chrome, gilding, active colors, and supports the colors of European wood species - oak, cherry, etc. well.

Navylam+ Teak parquet has a unique structure - a polyurethane insert not only completes the joints between the floorboards, but also closes the tongue-and-groove joint. This system provides greater sealing of joints and gives the surface an anti-slip effect. Polyurethane insert is resistant to weathering, ultraviolet radiation, salt water, long time does not lose elasticity, which allows you to maintain the neat appearance of wooden floors in the bathroom.

The thickness of Navylam+ Teak bathroom parquet is 9 mm. This optimal solution to retain all the warmth of the wood, a flawless appearance and prevent significant cracking of the parquet. There is no practical sense in using parquet with a thickness of, for example, 15 mm today. Due to the insertion and oil coating, such floors are never scraped. To renew, use only rubbing oil on the surface without grinding. The thinner the wood, the less it cracks, which is why the Design Parquet factory produces bathroom floors only 9 mm thick.

Navylam+ Teak board design - small width, like traditional piece parquet, and different lengths of floorboards from 300 to 1200 mm. Bathrooms usually have limited space and large boards do not reveal the rhythm of natural wooden floors, the play of shades of exotic species. The entire Navylam+ collection contains only untinted exotic wood species.

A convenient feature of the Navylam+ Teak board is the small footage of parquet in packages. When purchasing Navylam+, you do not need to overpay for extra volume of parquet. The smaller the bathroom, the more obvious this advantage is. Different lengths of dies allow you to further minimize the cost of trimming.

At correct installation and use, Navylam+ Teak wooden bathroom floors last for several decades. Laying parquet for bathrooms can be done using several methods. It is recommended to glue the tongue-and-groove joint and glue the planks to the base. The base in the bathroom must be carefully primed. Leave an expansion gap around the perimeter of the bathroom. The gap can be closed with black elastic sealant. Please note that the use of materials from natural wood The bathroom requires good ventilation.

It is recommended to renew the coating as the oil is washed off. Use natural oil For interior work, suitable for exotic breeds. If the oil is not updated regularly, the parquet will turn gray over time. Highly oily exotic species lose color more slowly, but will still lose color without proper floor care.

In stock on the street Marxistskaya, 3 p. 8 samples of this board (board and solid plank), as well as more than 3000 other parquet models

More information about teak wood in our encyclopedia

Depending on the volume, this product can be purchased at a discount, the size of which can be checked with the manager

Bathroom parquet Navylam+ Teak

with polyurethane insert

• Coating natural oil
• Country France

Despite the assurances of skeptics that a wooden floor in the bathroom is far from the best option, because these two components are incompatible, wood is used as flooring in rooms with high humidity more often. And there are good reasons for this. The floor in the bathroom should be environmentally friendly, warm and breathable; is it possible to find a material other than wood that would fully meet these requirements? Hardly. Only wood can provide comfort, safety and “living” energy, which are so lacking in modern apartments.

Choosing wood

The bathroom is a special room, which means it is necessary to choose materials for flooring more carefully. Not every tree can cope with “extreme conditions” while maintaining the benefits bestowed by nature. So which samples should you pay attention to first?

The best option for a wooden bathroom floor is teak. Amazing properties waterproof properties have been known since the 15th century - the British preferred to use teak for the construction of sailing ships.

You need to know this!
Teak - variety decking boards, ideal for rooms in constant contact with water and high temperatures.

Teak grows in India, Myanmar, Thailand, and the Malaysian Peninsula; its height reaches 150 feet and its diameter is 5 feet. Mature wood is dark brown, almost black.
This record holder for wear resistance does not slip at all, is able to accumulate and release heat, and is resistant to impact. chemical substances, which is extremely important for maintaining the necessary microclimate in a humid room.

A less expensive option, but no less attractive in quality and appearance, we can consider larch, which is also not afraid of water and will wonderfully decorate the floor of your bathroom.

It is possible to use elm, oak, ash; their cost is much cheaper, but in terms of water-repellent qualities they are absolutely not inferior to the recognized favorites.

IN Lately you can hear the term “thermowood” - this is wood treated at high temperatures without access to oxygen, which is resistant to fungi and rot and “gets along” well with steam and moisture.

Installing a wooden floor step by step

Arranging a wooden floor in a bathroom with your own hands is not an easy task, but it is completely solvable if you have the desire, backed up theoretical foundations. So let's begin.

Surface preparation

First you need to use a hammer drill to clean the floor from old tiles, screeds and waterproofing. We especially carefully treat the places where the walls and floor come into contact. If cracks and holes are found, we seal them with “tile” glue. If this is not done, the screed and waterproofing in these places will quickly become unusable. After finishing the work, the floor should be swept.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is one of the the most important stages installation of wooden floors in the bathroom, on which the success of the entire event depends. To improve grip strength waterproofing materials with the surface, the clean floor must first be moistened and then primed.

It is important!
To achieve ideal primer viscosity, you should take the main components (dry mixture and water) in a 1:1 ratio.

The correct ready-made primer composition has a creamy consistency. After applying the mixture, the floor must dry. A special tape is glued to the corners and joints to ensure a tight seal.

There are several types of waterproofing. The most common is coating, which is not difficult to implement.

Mix the dry mixture of waterproofing raw materials with the liquid component in a 1:1 ratio, mix until smooth. The resulting mixture is applied with a roller to the floor; if necessary, use a spatula or brush.

In parallel with coating the floor, you need to form a “trough”, i.e. Apply waterproofing to the walls so that it is 10 cm above the level of the future floor.
Waterproofing is applied in 2 layers with an interval of 4-6 hours. After applying the second layer, a day should pass.

A more affordable and easier alternative to the coating method can be painting waterproofing, which involves applying a protective solution (bitumen emulsion, “Knauf”) with a brush or roller.

The main disadvantage of the method is its fragility; waterproofing properties are maintained only for 3-5 years.

Leveling the floor

Regardless of the type of flooring chosen, the bathroom floor should be level. Self-leveling mixtures based on non-shrink cement will help with this.
Using a water level, we apply marks along the entire perimeter at the same height - this will be the level of our floor. Next, we install beacons - slats in the shape of the letter “T”, which we align with the help of a cord in accordance with the marks.

Mix the self-leveling mixture and mix it with a drill. After 15 minutes, pour the solution onto the floor and distribute it over the entire area with a spatula or rule.

It is important!
To eliminate air bubbles you will need a needle roller.

The drying time depends on the brand of leveling mixture, so you should carefully read the instructions. The first few days are the most important - avoid drafts and maintain the regimen recommended on the label.

Laying boards

Now you can begin installing the flooring. By the way, do not forget about acclimatization of the tree, which should lie in the bathroom for several days to “get used” to the temperature regime.

When cutting boards, mark the holes for communications, which should be larger than the diameter of the pipes. The flooring starts from the door. Using a construction gun, we pierce the edge of the first beam and lay the boards diagonally through the tenons. We hide the nail heads behind the next board. We push the boards into place using a rubber mallet; when selecting gaps, we use a lever or wedges. To avoid damaging the tenon, we insert a piece of board between it and the wedge.

It is important!
It is extremely necessary to know where the pipe runs - we mark this area.

Carefully adjust the boards around the niches and wall projections. Leave a gap of 10 mm between the board and the wall. The flooring will go much faster and easier when you reach the middle of the bath. The most long boards Use in high traffic areas, less under the bath or shower.

In a place where several pipes pass, you first need to cut a board and then join it on the opposite side.

We lay the remaining boards in the same way. Ready. Now you need to fill up small bumps and cracks, for which putty wax sticks are great.

Clean the surface and apply acrylic lacquer and... we admire the result - beautiful and reliable wooden flooring, which will serve faithfully for many years.

Result of work

Despite the fact that the bathroom is a room with high humidity, the wooden floor in it lasts a long time and fits perfectly into the interior. Unlike other materials, wood creates special comfort and coziness, and in comparison with tile coverings it's warmer. From ancient times to the present, bathhouses have been built from wood; it retains heat perfectly, is stable in a humid environment and is durable.

What kind of wood is suitable?

The durability and quality of the coating will depend on the right choice wood species The main requirement for the material is resistance to moisture.

• Teak is the most suitable option. Teak wood is very dense and practically waterproof. Teak flooring will last for decades.
• Larch. The wood of this tree is particularly resistant to water. Larch was used to make supports for bridges and piers, to build sea ​​vessels. Larch is less expensive than teak.
• Oak, ash, elm. The wood of these species is less resistant to moisture compared to larch.
• Cork. It can also be classified as a tree, as it is made from the bark of the cork oak tree.
• Thermowood is a material that is obtained by treating wood with steam at 200 o C in the absence of oxygen. A wooden floor made of thermowood does not warp under the influence of moisture, does not absorb it and is not affected by fungus.

Before laying, the material should be thoroughly dried and kept indoors for several days to acclimatize.

Preparing the base

The base of a wooden floor should be thoroughly cleaned of old screeds, layers down to the floor slabs, debris and dust should be removed and primed. On a surface treated with a primer, it is necessary to carefully seal all joints, cracks, and crevices, paying special attention to the junctions of walls and communications. If necessary, perform concrete screed to level the base. The humidity of the screed under a wooden floor should be less than 4%, the surface should be smooth and of equal strength over the entire area. Height differences are no more than 1 mm per 1 m.

If the floor needs to be insulated, it is preferable to use moisture-resistant insulation materials: polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam, crumb rubber or expanded clay.

Waterproofing

Before installation wood covering Waterproofing of the bathroom is mandatory. Its layer not only protects the wood from moisture from below, but also ensures the tightness of the room in case of leakage.


Waterproofing can be done using rolled materials such as rubitex, glass elast, aquaizol, uniflex, hydrostekloizol. They are laid in 1–2 layers with an overlap of 10–15 cm in wall height.

You can also use waterproofing mastics, which are applied in 2-3 layers with a brush or roller to the base, covering a 10-15 cm section of the wall. In combination with mastic, roll material is often used. This allows you to create a durable “trough” in which the wooden covering will be laid.

For waterproofing substrates with a moisture content of 5% or less, two-component epoxy primers, for example BergerPrimeE primer (Germany), can be used.

Waterproofing with bitumen mastic and aquaizol

1. Base cover bitumen mastic in such a way as to fill all the cracks and cracks with it. Mastic should be poured into them.
2. Mastic is also applied to the walls to such a height that it is 5–10 cm above the level of the future wooden covering.
3. After the mastic has hardened, lay the aquaizol sheets overlapping one another and on the wall in the area covered with mastic.
4. Aquaizol strips warm up gas burner(or a hairdryer if small areas) and press tightly to the base. You will get a kind of hermetic trough.

This waterproofing will provide reliable protection dry from moisture from below.

Floor installation

The wooden floor in the bathroom is laid:

• directly onto the base, carefully leveled and pre-treated with a two-component epoxy primer,
• over the waterproofing layer with polyurethane glue,
• on logs pre-impregnated with an antiseptic composition and covered with bitumen mastic.

Wooden floor boards in the bathroom are glued to the base with a special polyurethane glue, having the properties of a sealant. Glue is applied to the base and ends wooden planks. It is possible to install a wooden floor from boards with a tongue-and-groove joint with careful sealing of the seams and with seams between the planks like a deck covering.

Teak slatted floor on concrete base

The leveled concrete base is cleaned of dust and dirt and primed with a two-component epoxy primer in 2 layers crosswise. You can use German Berger primers. The primer will create a smooth, waterproof surface.

After the soil has completely dried, they begin gluing the wooden slats.

1. A thin layer of glue (no thicker than 3 mm) is applied to the base with a notched trowel and the first row of lamellas is laid, starting from the wall, 8–10 mm away from it. Use silane-modified polyurethane elastic parquet adhesive such as “M.1.S.Berger” or another recommended for these purposes. The ends of the planks are also lubricated with glue and pressed firmly.
2. The second row begins with the remainder of the lamella of the first row and is glued, leaving a 3-4 mm seam with the first row. To do this, you can use crosses for tiles 3.5 mm thick. Cut the slats with a jigsaw.
3. The next rows of lamellas are glued at the same distance from each other to the opposite wall.
4. After the last row is glued, the seams between the planks are filled with the same glue or sealant for deck boards such as “Sikaflex 11FC” (Switzerland) (you can use another similar one). Black sealant goes well with teak slats. It does not allow water to pass through and remains elastic to compensate for temperature fluctuations in the size of the coating.
5. The gaps between the walls and planks are also carefully filled with sealant.
6. After the sealant has hardened (1–2 days), the floor is sanded, thoroughly cleaned of dust and coated twice with special oil. deep penetration like Base Oil Berger. Used for work soft cloth which is soaked in oil.

Oil-impregnated floors acquire excellent color and water resistance. It does not warp, even if it remains under a thick layer of water for a day.

Floor on a layer of waterproofing made of boards with a tongue-and-groove connection

The elements are pre-cut to the required length. Work begins from the wall opposite to the entrance. A gap of 10–15 mm is left between the walls and the floor, which is filled with glue-sealant upon completion of the work.

• A 3 mm layer of modified polyurethane adhesive is applied to the base and leveled with a notched trowel. The glue should be applied to a surface on which the boards can be laid before the glue begins to polymerize.
• The first two or three rows are laid, carefully pressing the covering elements to the base and tightening them together with belts and wedges so that there are no longitudinal or transverse seams.
• The connections are also coated with glue. This will ensure good sealing of the entire coating.
• After polymerization of the glue is completed, work continues, moving towards the door.
• After 1–2 days, the floor is sanded and impregnated with deep penetration oil or varnished.
• The varnish layer should be about 2 mm so that it completely covers all the seams between the boards. The varnish will bring out the natural beauty of the wood and ensure the water resistance of the wooden floor.

Natural cork is glued in a similar way, using contact adhesive for cork coatings and a special varnish. Contact glue is applied to the floor and to the cork sheet, left for 10-15 minutes, then the sheet is pressed tightly to the floor, leaving no gaps. The cork floor is covered with a thick layer of varnish.

Installing the floor on joists

The peculiarity of installing the floor on logs in the bathroom is that the logs are not attached to concrete base, they are installed freely at a distance of 50–60 cm from each other. A 5x5 cm planed block is used as a lag. The deviation of the lag from the level should be no more than 2 mm per 2 m.

Flooring

Use floorboards with a thickness of at least 20 mm with a tongue-and-groove connection. They begin to be laid from the wall or from the threshold (depending on the installation method). The first row is installed at a distance of 1 cm from the wall with the groove facing the wall. The boards are attached with screws to each joist near the wall. The next rows are laid by inserting the ridge into the groove and nailed to the joists. This floor can be varnished or impregnated with oil, after pre-treating the seams with sealant. Floors on joists require ventilation of the space between the covering and the base.

Prices for materials for wooden floors in the bathroom

Wooden floor in the bathroom - video