• • DIY wall clock? Well, so what, you can buy them in a watch store. Yes, it is possible, but they will already be ready and it will not be easy to add something to them or change them. As for your DIY watch, imagine that you can put anything on it. Because there are no restrictions.
    • • 1. Preparation. In my case, this is sprat from a crowned tree. Where can I get it from? Very simple! You can find a phone number in the “tree crowning” ad, call it and ask either for the sprat itself or for it to be cut into blanks – circles, as shown in the figure. In my case, the diameter of the circle was 31 cm and the thickness was 2.5 cm. How to determine what diameter you need? Buy a clock mechanism and use it as your guide. The thickness of the workpiece plays a very important role, since it determines whether it is necessary to make a pocket for the mechanism or not. In my case, I did it and it took quite a lot of time. In order not to repeat my mistake, cut the workpiece to a thickness of no more than 1 cm. Also, most likely the wood will still be damp, which means that when it dries, it may deform, so place the workpiece for 1 week or 2 in a warm place dry room. I even got a chip (see photo).
      • TOTAL material costs: 1,640 rubles (date 03/01/2015). These are my expenses, I think that for many they can be significantly lower because economic people have half of the above in their homes, or for others the costs may be higher. Share your information about this in the comments, it will help others navigate.

DIY wall clock. Made of wood

DIY wall clock? Well, so what, you can buy them in a watch store. Yes, it is possible, but they will already be ready and it will not be easy to add something to them or change them. As for your DIY watch, imagine that you can put anything on it. Because there are no restrictions.

A DIY wall clock is original and creative, and most importantly simple. Imagine how they make you happy every time you see them, how you hear the sounds of the clockwork, how time works for you.

This is what our watch looks like. How are yours?

Decorating the wall of your room or hallway Wall Clock with their own hands they remind you of another victory. After all, you made them yourself. Friends, acquaintances and guests who see it will probably take an interest in the watch and say something like: “Mm, interesting, but where did you get it from?” To which everyone will have their own answer. They might also want to make their own wall clock.

So, what do we need for a wall clock?

1 . Preparation. In my case, this is sprat from a crowned tree. Where can I get it from? Very simple! You can find a phone number in the “tree crowning” ad, call it and ask either for the sprat itself or for it to be cut into blanks – circles, as shown in the figure. In my case, the diameter of the circle was 31 cm and the thickness was 2.5 cm. How to determine what diameter you need? Buy a clock mechanism and use it as your guide. The thickness of the workpiece plays a very important role, since it determines whether it is necessary to make a pocket for the mechanism or not. In my case, I did it and it took quite a lot of time. In order not to repeat my mistake, cut the workpiece to a thickness of no more than 1 cm. Also, most likely the wood will still be damp, which means that it may deform when drying, so place the workpiece for 1 week or 2 in a warm, dry room. I even got a chip (see photo).

2. Clockwork. Can be purchased at almost any watch store or ordered online. I bought a German one from the store, it cost 400 rubles, the set included arrows and a battery.

The German clock movement kit includes hands and battery.

3. A ruler and a pencil are in every home, and anyone can buy them.

4 . Matchbox or burning device.

5 . A regular or stationery knife, cost from 85 rubles.

6. Wood glue, cost from 65 rubles.

7. Transparent varnish on wood, matte or glossy, choose to suit your taste. I took a matte varnish with a capacity of 1 liter, although 250 grams should be enough. The bank cost me 500 rubles.

8 . Screwdriver with wood drill with a diameter of 60-80 mm.

9 . Chisel and hammer.

10 . A varnish brush, costing 85 rubles (it is advisable to take a thin one to make it easier to coat hard-to-reach places and crevices).

eleven . Black marker for coloring numbers. You can take any other color to your taste. The marker cost 95 rubles.

12 . Leaf skins of large and small grains.

TOTAL material costs: 1,640 rubles (date 03/01/2015). These are my expenses, I think that for many they can be significantly lower because economic people have half of the above in their homes, or for others the costs may be higher. Share your information about this in the comments, it will help others navigate.

Step 1. Our workpiece must be sanded and sanded so that the surface is smooth and pleasant to the touch. To do this, we use coarse-grained sandpaper, then, when the surface is smoothed, we sand it with fine-grained sandpaper.

Skinning

Step 2. Measure the middle and drill a hole through which the base of the clock mechanism will pass.

Step 3. On the back side we make a recess (pocket) for the clock mechanism, if necessary. How to do it? I made a lot of holes with a regular drill, and then knocked them out with a chisel and hammer, then sanded the surface as best I could.

Step 4. We construct arrows - numbers from matches, then paint them over with a marker. You can burn it with a burning device, or apply artistic cutting. In general, there are no restrictions!

I got the following numbers) What are yours?

Step 5. Measure out where the numbers should be and glue them with wood glue.

Step 6. We check how the clock mechanism fits and works, and then we begin to varnish. We varnish in 2 or 3 layers depending on the varnish (read the instructions on the varnish can).

Step 7. We mount the clock mechanism using self-tapping screws or glue it with glue.

V U A L Y

Congratulations, now you can be proud and see your wall clock on the wall of your house, apartment, office or cottage.

Opening the boxes of works sent to the competition, we discovered something in one of them that immediately aroused admiration, and we are sure that many will want to repeat this project. It is distinguished by its uniqueness, careful thought of all elements and, undoubtedly, attractiveness. With the permission of the author of the project, we only slightly changed its proportions and design to make its production accessible to most of our readers, and asked our craftsmen to make another sample. Now that all the intricacies of this work have become known, you can repeat it according to our descriptions.

Make blanks for the body walls

Having cut out all the side walls and arch parts from one long board, you can be sure of the continuity of the texture pattern and the color match on the parts of the finished case.

Note. To make the texture pattern on the side walls and top curve look continuous, we sawed all the parts sequentially from one board (see “Cutting diagram”). Onphoto A shows the side walls and top parts aligned before gluing after making bevels at an angle of 22.5° at their ends.

1. Take a 1050mm long board (we chose mahogany), edge it to a thickness of 29mm, lining both sides, and then saw it to a width of 127mm.

2. Having sawed one end of the board exactly at a right angle, saw off one side wall A. Mark its lower end with the number “1” and draw an arrow that will point inside the finished body. Using cross cuts, separate four 81 mm long pieces for the top rounding parts IN, numbering them sequentially with numbers on inside. File the second side wall A to its final length and mark its lower end with the number “2” and an arrow pointing inside the future body.

3. Make four copies of the top piece template IN. Using spray adhesive, attach them to the front edge of each of the four pieces.

4. To do on the details IN bevels at an angle of 22.5°, using miter saw, having secured the stopper, file the bevels at the same ends of each part. After repositioning the stopper, make bevels on the other end of the four pieces.

Mill the lamella socket in the middle of the end of the arch parts.

5. Adjust the router's stop to 22.5° so that the #20 slat seat is centered on the final thickness of the top pieces. B (photo B).(This position is marked by a line on the edges of the template.) Make sure that the nests will be made exactly in the middle of the width, and rout them into the bevels of each piece.

6. B planer treat both side walls A to a thickness of 19 mm, removing material from both sides. Set the lamella router to this thickness and make a #20 lamella slot in the top end of both walls in the middle of the thickness and width of the pieces.

Glue the blanks for the top and add the side walls

When gluing an arch from several parts, arrange the clamps symmetrically and do not tighten them too much. It is only enough for the joints to close.

1. Make a fixture from MDF or plywood (Fig. 2). Dry assemble the pieces of the rounded top parts to ensure that they fit together tightly (photo C). Apply glue, insert the slats into the slots and connect the workpieces, aligning their edges. Do not tighten the clamps too much - just make sure there are no gaps in the joints.

2. Band saw Remove excess material from both sides of the glue by cutting close to the line. We used a new 6mm wide saw blade and set the machine table at an exact 90° angle to it.

3. Then, using 80 grit abrasive, sand the arch down to the contour lines until its thickness is 19mm. You can sand the arch by hand, but we recommend making the simple equipment described in the article "Extra Long Sanding Drum".

A pair of strap clamps hold the body parts together. The parallelism of the side walls is ensured by two temporary spacers.

4. Dry connect the side walls A with glued arch IN. From the scraps, cut two spacers measuring 127x165 mm, which will ensure parallelism of the rear walls while you install the strap clamps (photoD). When the glue is completely dry, use sanding to smooth out the transitions from the arch to the side walls.

Look at what is shown in (Fig. 3) The position of the tongues on the inner surface of the manufactured part of the body is one at a distance of 10 mm from the front edge of the parts, and the second at a distance of 6 mm from the rear edge. Select these tongues with a 6mm slotted bit set in the router table. At our cutter

Using a slotted cutter, the grooves on the inside of the finished part of the body should be removed in a counterclockwise direction.

5. Consider what is shown in (Fig. 3) The position of the tongues on the inner surface of the manufactured part of the body is one at a distance of 10 mm from the front edge of the parts, and the second at a distance of 6 mm from the rear edge. Select these tongues with a 6mm slotted bit set in the router table. In our cutter, the bearing that limits the depth of milling is located below the cutting elements (photo E).

6. Now replace the spline cutter with a rebate cutter and make a 3mm, 6mm deep rebate around the front of the side walls and top of the cabinet.

To complete the body, add the bottom, front and back walls

Applying in drilling machine ballerina ring cutter, reduce the speed, and use stops to fix the workpiece.

1. From a 19 mm board, cut a blank measuring 171x178 mm for the front wall WITH. Mark according to rice. 4 top rounding and hole with a diameter of 83 mm for the clock mechanism. Make a hole in the front wall using a ballerina cutter on a drill press (photoF). Using a band saw, saw off the top of the workpiece along the radius and sand the edges of the part smoothly.

Note. If the clock mechanism has different dimensions, change the diameter of the hole in the front frame accordingly.

2. Place a rebate bit in the router table and make a 12mm rebate 6mm deep (Fig. 4).

3. Cut out the blank for the front trim D. Mill a 3mm radius fillet along the top and bottom edges of the workpiece, creating the profile shown in rice. 3. Glue the front trim to the bottom edge of the front wall, lining up the back sides of the pieces.

4. Cut out the back wall E made of 6 mm plywood (“List of materials”, rice. 1). Insert it into the tongue of the finished body part A/B and make sure the bottom edge of the piece is flush with the bottom of the side walls A. Do not glue the back wall to the body yet.

5. Insert the front wall with the pad glued C/D into the tongue of the assembled part of the body. Cut out thin slats-liners F and glue them in place (Fig. 3).

6. Saw out the bottom G. Rout 3mm radius fillets along both ends and the leading edge at the top and bottom. To avoid chipping, first process the ends of the part with a milling cutter.

7. Drill in the bottom G mounting holes with a diameter of 4 mm and countersink them (Fig. 1). Place the body on the workbench and press the bottom against it, aligning it in the center. Through the mounting holes in the bottom, drill 2.8×13 mm guide holes in the lower ends of the side walls A. Attach the bottom to the cabinet using 4.5x32 countersunk screws.

8. Cut out the guide rails N For drawers. For safe work we used a splinter pad and a pusher.

A simple device made from a piece of MDF with grooves allows you to glue four runners to the inside of the body in one go, aligning them perfectly.

9. Make the mounting template shown in (Fig. 5.) Mark both edges with arrows pointing up to prevent accidental overturning while installing the runners. Insert four runners into the grooves of the template N (photoG) and lightly coat their open edge with glue. Insert the template with runners into the housing close to the bottom G and press it with clamps to the side wall A. Let the glue dry for a few hours and then glue the runners to the other wall.

10. Saw out the legs I. To safely process their ends and edges, set the milling table to a minimum clearance around the cutter. To do this, secure a semicircular cutter with a diameter of 12 mm in a collet and lift it above the surface milling table. Then position the rip fence so that it lightly touches the cutter blades (Fig. 6). Lower the cutter below the surface of the table and place a square piece of 6mm hardboard measuring 300x300mm on top of it, securing it with strips of double-sided tape. Turn on the router and slowly lift the rotating bit through the hardboard until it protrudes 2 mm from above (Fig. 6). Mill semi-circular grooves along the ends and edges of each leg I.

11. Sand to soften the sharp edges on the legs. (Fig. 3). Glue the legs to the bottom G, placing them flush with the rear edge of the bottom and retreating 6 mm from the front edge and corners.

Start making boxes

1. Cut out the front/back J and lateral TO walls of drawers. Install a 10 mm thick mortise disc into the saw machine and secure a wooden plate to the longitudinal stop. Move the stop close to the disc and secure it. Adjust the disc offset and cut on the front and rear walls J folds 5 mm deep (Fig. 7).

2. Now install a 6 mm thick groove disk into the saw machine, rearrange the longitudinal stop and cut out tongues on the inside of the front, rear and side walls J, K at the bottom edge (Fig. 7).

3. Cut out the bottom L drawers. Dry assemble the drawers to check the fit of all parts. Then glue the boxes together, securing them with clamps, and make sure they are square and free of distortions.

4. To make partial tongues in the side walls of drawers, install a straight groove cutter with a diameter of 6 mm in the collet of a router mounted in the table and set the routing depth to 6 mm. Position the router table rip fence so that the cutter is exactly in the middle of the width of the side wall K. Check the settings on a piece of trim that is the same width as the side walls. Attach a stopper to the longitudinal stop to the left of the cutter to limit the length of the milled tongue to 84 mm (photo N). After making a tongue on one side wall, turn the box over and rout the same tongue on the other side.

Align the bit exactly with the middle of the side wall and rout the tongues on both sides of the drawers without changing the settings.

5. Try all the drawers one by one against the body opening and ensure their smooth movement by carefully grinding the guide rails. Drill in the center of each front wall J mounting hole for handle-button.

Finishing won't take long

1. If you want, you can stain the mahogany wood to make it a little darker. (We used General Finishes Antique Cherry stain.)

2. When the stain is completely dry, spray apply two coats of semi-matte varnish. (We used Deft Clear Wood Finish.) Lightly sand the first coat once dry. sandpaper No. 220 and remove dust thoroughly.

3. After drying the varnish, install the button handles. Lightly rub paraffin on the slides in the body to make the drawers move more smoothly. Install the battery into the clock mechanism and insert it into place.

Wall clocks have long been not only a timekeeper, but also a stylish piece of furniture. You can easily make your own clock that will match the spirit of your home and your character. Personally, I prefer eco style and want to make wooden clock from an almost unprocessed tree trunk.
The easiest option is to make a clock from sawn wood.

First you need to saw off the cut from the trunk. You can leave the bark, it looks decorative in some cases, and sand it thoroughly.
To make a watch, you will need to buy the simplest watch in a store in plastic case. All you need from them is a clock mechanism. The watch will need to be carefully disassembled, first removing the batteries from it. Remove the protective glass from the watch, then the cap. which secures the arrows, nut and washer. We take out the mechanism from the clock. We remember the sequence and put all the parts in a safe place.
Now we apply the numbers on the cut dial using a burner. IN in this case everything is extremely conditional (only the number “12”).

And drill a hole in the center for the arrows. You can make a cut at the back of the cut for the clock mechanism using a chisel or a router. Now we mount the clock mechanism with hands on the new watch:

You can saw parts of different lengths from a pine block and glue them together, clamping them with clamps. You will get a very creative dial:

In the following version, the dial is made of OSB sheet, and the frame is made of wooden blocks:

If you have jigsaw cutting skills, you can make more complex options dials in the form of animal figures:

Such a clock would be especially appropriate in a children's room.
A very simple and original option - a wooden dial with buttons glued to it instead of numbers:

In general, give free rein to your imagination and go for it!

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This article describes the process useful device, which is in every home. Perhaps not even in a single copy. It's about about wall clocks. But this particular watch will be truly unique, since we will make it ourselves. No one else in the whole world will have exactly the same watch. Similar - perhaps, but all the same, ours will be exclusive, one of a kind.

Tools and materials used by the author of the homemade product:

1. Quite a lot of 32 mm long screws
2. M6 stud, threaded with screwed end
3. Wooden table top, width 200 mm
4. Black glossy paint
5. White craquelure paint
6. Clear acrylic varnish
7. Screwdriver
8. Screwdriver
9. Sandpaper
10. Hacksaw
11. Pliers
12. Vise
13. Drill
14. Reismus
15. Bulgarian

Manufacturing process.
First of all, we will need to draw a square with a side of 30 cm. After that, we draw our square into smaller squares with a side of 10 cm, so that in the end we get 9 squares. To do this, the author resorts to the help of a home-made thickness planer, which shows itself perfectly.

Since this time there was more sawing than usual, the author decided to use a jigsaw. In the absence of one of my own, I borrowed a jigsaw from a friend of mine. Of course it's perfect smooth cuts It’s quite difficult without using guides, but in this homemade product it’s not important, so, as they say, it’ll do.

Having cut nine blanks, we need to give them a marketable appearance. To do this, the author uses his own hand tool- sanding block. You can make such a simple device for yourself. Although it will be quite enough to use ordinary sandpaper. To fix the square wooden blank the author uses a vice. Manual process Sanding nine wooden squares will take quite a long time. To reduce it, use the power tools you have on the farm to process the workpieces. At the output we get one large square, which consists of 9 smaller squares.

We put it aside temporarily and move on to the hairpins. We fix the M6 ​​pin on the workbench using a vice. We will need to cut it into five-centimeter pieces. In total, we will need as many as 12 such pieces to make a wall clock with our own hands. In order to somehow speed up the process, and in order not to bother with a tape measure, the author fixes the caliper at 50 mm and measures 12 segments. Using small pieces of masking tape, the author makes marks on a metal pin.

The pieces measured in this way are sawed off using a grinder and also temporarily put aside.

Next, you need to choose in which square the clock mechanism will be located. In other words, you need to choose a square that will be located in the center of the entire structure. This does not play a special role, since if all 9 squares were cut quite evenly, and they were processed in the same way, then they will not be particularly different from each other. Well, maybe just a wood pattern. Yes, it is unique. In principle, any square can be the heart keeper of our watch.

We begin to gut the selected square. Using a chisel, we dig out a recess in the center; in this case, the watch mechanism case has square shape Therefore, we will make the recess square. We measure the body of the clock mechanism and hollow out a place in the wood for it, observing the dimensions. For this procedure, of course, a router would be useful, but since the author does not have one, he used a hammer and a chisel. Using these methods and using these tools, the author spent about an hour on this stage.

After this, you need to carefully drill a hole in the center of our square. In this case, with a diameter of 9 millimeters.

We need to assemble our squares into a single structure on a flat and fairly hard surface. And with the help of a thicknesser we make marks that will be useful to us for joining the workpieces.

We will connect the workpieces using pins cut into pieces. Therefore, we drill a hole according to the marks. Next in drilled hole screw in the M6 ​​studs.

Then we proceed to one of the most interesting parts of our homemade product - assembling all the squares into one whole.

When assembling, the author at first thought that the rigidity was a little lacking, since he screwed a pin into each workpiece only 1 cm.

To give rigidity to the entire structure, he marked out the central square. A hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled in each side for an M6 stud.

Then you need to start putting numbers on the dial. We will not draw all the numbers, but only 3,6,9 and 12. In this way we will paint only 4 squares.

If you don't like this form of numbers, you can use any numbers, for example, Roman ones. Well, it will also look pretty good. The author drew the numbers approximately by eye. This is because at the next stage, when marking, they will take on the same shape and you will understand why.

Since, according to the author’s idea, the numbers will be made from self-tapping screws, he measured the diameter of the screw head. In this case, the size was 8 mm. There is no need to place the screws tightly, so we add another 1 mm on each side to the 8 mm diameter of the screw head. As a result, we get a distance of 10 mm.

Next, the author fixed the caliper at a position of 1 cm and thus applied markings, which turned out, in principle, almost ideal. According to the marked marks, he drilled holes with a drill with a diameter of 3.3 mm to the depth of the middle of the tabletop.

Having finished drilling the holes for all the screws, the author applied a base coat of glossy black paint.

On top of the base black layer I applied a white craquelure layer of paint, which did not appear as intensely as I wanted. The simple fact is that the base layer would have to be applied two or even three times to the wooden surface.

Any home interior will help to incredibly transform a brand new wall clock. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to travel all over the city in search of a new masterpiece that will become a wonderful update.

Wall clocks in the interior will look great if you make them yourself! For example, you can decorate an old clock you have. You can also make new ones using various materials, and also easily accessible.

Moreover, they will be in quality great gift, especially to family and friends, who are not punctual.

How to make a wall clock with your own hands

Taking the most ordinary embroidery hoop, you can get quite interesting wall clocks. You will also need decorative buttons for this. The base can be chosen from a fabric that goes well with the texture and color design Your interior.

You can also use any buttons (preferably a collection) that are completely idle. They can be different shapes, color, size.

For a new watch you need to prepare: an old watch or find hands with a mechanism, a hoop, fabric with buttons, braid/ribbon, and if you wish, a thin board/cardboard.

It shouldn’t be a pain to disassemble a clock mechanism/old clock to remake it for a new decor. The arrows should be removed along with the nuts that hold them together. It is important to know in this case in what sequence they are connected. The fabric is attached between the hoops, cut off the unnecessary edges, then sew on the buttons. Place the latter in accordance with the numbers on the dial.

Next, the watch mechanism itself is attached. You need to make a small hole right in the center of the dial, and on the other side you need to attach a mechanism so that the mount for the hands is right in the center of the dial of your watch. To secure the mechanism, cut a circle from a cardboard sheet or wood. Its diameter should be the same as the hoop. The mechanism is glued to it. You can also simply hang it on a ribbon that is attached to the hoop. We recommend making a loop so that you can hang the accessory on the wall. All that remains is to screw the arrows and voila! See options for similar items in our photos of DIY wall clocks.

Option No. 2

A clock can also be made from old unwanted magazines/newspapers.

To do this you need to prepare: 24 pages of equal size; pencil, scissors, transparent adhesive tape, long needle, silk thread intended for embroidery/floss, transparent plastic disks (2 pcs.), a cardboard circle with a hole right in the center, a clock mechanism with arrows.

So, first you need to take a pencil that is wrapped in newspaper. The tubes need to be made accordingly, 24 pieces. Their ends should be secured with adhesive tape, then they naturally will not unwind. Approximately the third part needs to be moved back from the end of the tube, then bent in half here.

You need to insert a silk/floss thread into the needle, then thread it through the same bent tip paper straw. Pull the needle through and tie a knot at the end of the thread. Other tubes are sewn in the same way. They should be placed around your watch.

Place a prepared transparent disk on top of the tubes. This must be done so that the hole remains in the center of the circle, which was created thanks to the tubes. Then the mechanism is applied, taking into account that the place where your hands are fastened coincides with the hole in the disk. Then you need to turn the clock over and put in a second disk of the same type. Cardboard is placed on top of it, and the clock mechanism is attached using a nut. At the end, all you have to do is screw on the hour hands and voila!

We invite you to look through photos of ideas on how to decorate a wall clock, as a result of which you will succeed!

Photo of a handmade wall clock in the interior