Do-it-yourself tubular scaffolding. How to make scaffolding yourself

When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at height, and therefore it is impossible to do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution– make scaffolding with your own hands, then you won’t have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They come in wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Construction and types of scaffolding

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

• support posts;
• stairs;
• floorings and lintels for it;
• fencing railings;
• stops;
• horizontal and diagonal struts.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all parts are nailed together. At the same time, such scaffolding is not designed for heavy loads; dismantling it takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Forests from metal pipes much stronger, they can be easily expanded if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.

Wedge forests

Depending on the mounting methods, there are 4 main types scaffolding.

Table. Types of forests

Types of forests	Description
frame	metal structures made of vertical frames fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffoldings are lightweight and easy to install
wedge	very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders
pin	rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but is too expensive and has a high pressure to the ground
clamp	This is a versatile scaffolding that is perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite labor-intensive, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there must be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding should be a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, they are approximate drawing designs.

To work you will need:

• timber 100x100 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick;
• boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
• nails;
• hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• Circular Saw.

The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. raw wood will make the structure heavier, and may become deformed after drying. Since scaffolding is required only for the duration of construction or finishing of the house, there is no need to treat it with antiseptic compounds or sand it.

Step 1. Making the frame

4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them with inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meters – along the lower edge. You should end up with two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.

Step 2. Assembling the frame

The frames are lifted, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m. Check the horizontal position of the sidewalls with a building level, and if everything is correct, nail the frame tightly. Finished design should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.

Step 3. Installation of flooring

Flooring boards must be nailed to the upper cross beams. It is best to stuff them along the width of the frame; The boards are laid closely, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Assembly of metal scaffolding

In private construction, it is most convenient to use framed metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section has a height of 1.5 m, a width of 1 m and a length of 1.65 to 2 m.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Preparing the spacers

Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of horizontal ones is 96 cm, diagonal - 2 m. After this, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the spacers to the supporting posts.

Step 2. Making adapters

To build up scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from profile pipes: 25x25 mm pipes are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and 8 cm long blanks are cut from 30x30 mm pipes. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.

Step 3. Frame assembly

Two vertical racks They are connected to each other by horizontal spacers, welding them every 30 cm. The result is a frame in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. From sheet metal cut out square plates 70x70 mm and weld them flat to the lower ends support posts. Thanks to this, the section racks will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils under metal plates Additionally, dense wooden planks are laid.

Step 4. Section installation

Two frames are installed vertically, one opposite the other, and diagonal struts are tried on. Mark the fastening points with a marker, then drill holes for the bolts in the posts and spacers. Connect all parts together and check the horizontal position with a level. top bars. If the structure is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the flooring

Flooring boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse flooring, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, take boards at least 2 m long, knock them down along the width of the sections, and reinforce them from below with transverse bars to prevent deflection.

To ensure that the flooring does not move during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be secured to its ends according to the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. Markings are made in the same way at the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile 17-20 mm wide, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with self-tapping screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now, when the flooring is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.

Step 5. Painting the scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is intended for reusable, which means they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, moisture causes the frame to become corroded, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolding, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring is also treated and painted to protect it from moisture and rot.

Prices for poles, profile pipes

Pillars, profile pipes

Video - DIY scaffolding

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - step-by-step instructions have been prepared for you.

The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional devices for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders that is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
2. Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
3. Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. Buy them for home use unprofitable, only rent is possible for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

1. Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
2. The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
4. The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: It is unacceptable to use spliced ​​cross members without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made from edged or unedged boards, and can also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal braces connecting the posts different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to link greatest number racks

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

1. The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, do wooden platforms for supporting the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
3. For each node there are at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50–70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
5. Always install handrails on the inside of the rack.
6. Use a fascia board (fencing near the deck).
7. The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
8. The pitch of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

To create a wooden scaffolding structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
2. We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a brace.
2. We prepare required amount"envelopes".
3. Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them diagonally maximum height so that they stand without support.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
6. Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

1. Install the handrail and front board.
2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To build a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

When constructing walls or exterior decoration of buildings, scaffolding is used. This design makes it possible to safely work at height and keep it at hand. necessary tools and stock of materials used.

Types of scaffolding

Despite the fact that scaffolding comes in many types, their structures contain identical parts that serve the same purpose:

• Vertical supports.
• Ties connecting supports horizontally and vertically.
• Cross members.
• Flooring.
• Support slopes.
• Handrails.
• Stairs.

Material for production

In the manufacture of scaffolding they use:

• lumber;
• metal.

A wooden structure is much cheaper than a metal one, but it can only be used for two or three assemblies. In the future, it is only suitable for “throwing away”.

Scaffolding made from metal pipes, although much more expensive than wood, is not limited in use. They are easy to dismantle and move as needed. In addition, scaffolding made from pipes can be increased in height, complementing the tiers.

Making scaffolding from wood

To make scaffolding from wood and pallets with your own hands, you must first develop drawings and determine dimensions.

There is no need to invent anything in this regard. Many years of practice have independently determined and established dimensions that are convenient to use:

• maximum height of the structure - 6 meters;
• the distance between supports can vary from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• The width of the working platform is 1 meter.

Manufacturing of scaffolding

Step-by-step production of scaffolding with your own hands:

• On a flat surface of the ground, two supports are laid out, preferably from timber, but it is also possible from a fiftieth board, parallel to each other, equal in height.
• The supports are fastened horizontally with crossbars, on which the work platform will subsequently be laid.
• The resulting two fastened structures are installed vertically against each other and connected diagonally and horizontally by crossbars.
• Boards are laid and secured onto the horizontal crossbars, which will subsequently serve as flooring.
• To fix the scaffolding, side supports are installed.
• A cranial block is nailed onto the supports, which will act as a railing.
• On last stage a ladder for climbing is installed and fixed.

If you need to install two or more sections, then they are connected to each other by a wide board, which is placed on adjacent supports. To prevent nails from splitting, you must first drill holes for them.

Specifics of manufacturing scaffolding from pipes

When starting to make collapsible scaffolding from pipes with your own hands, you need to know that in terms of their design data they are identical to wooden scaffolding. The difference between them is represented by adapters, which are used to increase the height of the structure.

Detailing for assembling one metal section

To assemble one section you will need:

• Profiled pipe for supports 40x40 mm - 4 pcs. 1.5 m each.
• Profiled pipe for crossbars - 4 pcs. 1 m each.
• Thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 4 pcs. 2 meters for screed diagonally.
• Profiled pipe 35x35 mm - 8 pcs. 10 cm each, which will play the role of adapters.
• Profiled pipe 35x35 for railings - 1 piece 2 - m.
• Steel plate for thrust bearings 10x10 cm, thickness 3 mm - 4 pieces.
• To connect the crossbars diagonally to the frame, you will need 10 bolts with nuts and washers.

Assembly of metal scaffolding of one level

To assemble the structure, you must follow the instructions: how to make scaffolding correctly.

Assembly of scaffolding from pipes includes the following operations:

• The scaffolding supports are secured to the OSB sheet using clamps.
• Cross members are welded horizontally to the supports using welding.
• Adapters measuring 5 cm are welded to the upper end of the racks.
• Having lifted the racks with crossbars from the shield, they must be rotated 90 degrees, laid back on the shield and secured to the shield with clamps.
• The edges and middle of the pipe, intended for diagonal stretching, are flattened and a slot for bolts is drilled.
• Two diagonal crossbars are tightened in the center with a bolt, applied to the racks and the location for drilling is determined.
• The crossbars are secured to the posts with bolts and tightened with nuts.
• Holes are drilled on the supports and handrails and bolted together.
• Thrust bearings are welded to the base of the pipes.
• The finished structure is installed vertically.
• Boards are laid on the side crossbars, which serve as the base of the working platform.

Photos of how to make scaffolding can be seen below.

It is important to remember that diagonal crossbars must be secured on one side of the structure, and horizontal ones on the opposite side. Then during assembly they will not interfere with each other.

Photos of DIY scaffolding

Note!

Note!

During the construction or maintenance of a private house, it is necessary to perform work at heights. Not all work can be done with a stepladder or ladder. In such cases, it is necessary to use scaffolding.
Scaffolding can be made from various materials. The most common are metal and wooden scaffolding.
Metal scaffolding has great advantages. They are distinguished by their stability, safety and durability. But the cost of this design is quite considerable. Yes, and difficulties in assembly and large dimensions of the structure are not the most acceptable option.
An alternative to metal scaffolding is wooden scaffolding, which is easy to assemble and costs several times less. Another advantage of wood scaffolding is that they can be assembled by almost any available material, using only available equipment. Wooden scaffolding can be transported to any distance independently and stored disassembled for a long time. Due to many advantages, many choose wooden scaffolding for construction and installation work.
Making wooden scaffolding is not difficult. It is enough to choose high-quality and durable wood the right size. Since the structure of the scaffolding is temporary, it can be made from wood and boards, which are “not in good condition.”

Scaffolding process

1. First of all, you need to make a base. To do this, we take two beams and fasten them together using auxiliary boards. We secure the boards with self-tapping screws.

2. Cut the upper part of the beam at an angle. The bevel on the beam is necessary for further fastening of the remaining parts of the structure.

3. The finished part of the base looks like:

4. Next, we attach a 1 m long board to the cut site.

5. Sequentially attach three more parts of the manufactured beams to the top bar. Thanks to the presence of bevels on the beams, the structure takes on a stable shape.

6. To make the scaffolding structure more reliable and durable, it is necessary to strengthen it with auxiliary strips. We fix the planks in the upper and middle parts of the structure. We do this work on both sides of the stand.

7. Additionally, we secure the stand at the base on several sides.

8. The finished part of the scaffolding looks like:

9. You can also strengthen the structure of the stand in the central part, while placing the fastening boards diagonally.

10. To perform the work, lay out wood flooring, which will serve as a place of movement.

11. Scaffolding stands can be made as many as necessary to complete the safe work. The stands are easy to move from place to place without disassembling them. In addition, such a design can be used on various terrains and when performing work of any complexity.

12. The height of wooden scaffolding can be adjusted by increasing the height of the wooden deck.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photos, videos. During the construction phase, repair work and when servicing a private home, sometimes you have to work at heights. It is not always convenient to carry out work using an ordinary ladder, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation is to build scaffolding yourself.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be much more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, since it is cheaper. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need are nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, a hammer or. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone’s home, and if something is missing, you can buy it the right tool it won't cost a lot of money.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, and welding machine and at least basic concept how to weld seams correctly. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases scaffolding is made of wood.

Materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short period of time, but production requires the use of wood High Quality and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

You can also make scaffolding from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go on the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to stack two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. They lay a board on the posts, and then stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak spots, it will crack or even break. If it holds up, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen based on the structure, the distance between the posts and the expected load. The only thing that should be noted is that for flooring and racks, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used, and for jib boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Such boards can also be used after dismantling the scaffolding in construction work, if you can avoid damaging it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, even in 100 years there will be debate about which is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at heights and therefore the structure must be reliable. In this case, the nails will the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

In contrast, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding because there are cases where it has broken. But we were talking about “black” screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you're really concerned about durability, it's best to use nails to make your own scaffolding. But they are not liked because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the joint without losses and quickly, since the wood will be damaged.

At independent work do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each connection. To ensure that the wood is not damaged in the future, you can place cuttings of thin boards under the nails, and over a long span you can use whole boards, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you can split them and easily remove the nails.

Design features

For various types The work will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. To work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope-shaped structure. For finishing gables or just exterior decoration In a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction trestles, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If you can't support anything on the walls, you can use a trestle with decking boards laid on the crossbars.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick will require full-fledged scaffolding. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolding

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not fastened. They are held in place by a stop. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter “L”, but they are turned in different directions.

In the first picture, reliable and simple design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from timber. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can support a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second picture shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although you wouldn’t be able to tell at first glance. But still this has been tested by thousands of people who have used them in construction. These are attractive ones that require a minimum quantity building materials, and can be assembled/disassembled/transported in a few minutes. The main thing is to make the triangles, and installation at the desired height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, use a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffolding to the required height using it. The crossbar on top should be 0.8 to 1 meter long, and the flooring boards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and the wider the larger, the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that horizontal board was on top. To increase reliability, use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner using three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Triangles are installed for every meter. If it works, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground and the other on top part triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or cross-section (for profiled pipes, at least 5*4 cm). When installing the stop, it should be placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, additionally secured and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be secured with several jibs, which will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. Can be used for jibs unedged board, if it exists, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you need to grow the thrust boards (so that they are more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional stop. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby relieve part of the load. Now about the flooring of scaffolding with your own hands. It must be made from wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is necessary to fix them to the triangles at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest vibrations under your feet will cause discomfort, so it is highly advisable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if heavy materials are not intended to be used. It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them based on the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on a flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper towards the top.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with an outlet of 25 cm. They will prevent the structure from collapsing. The racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on how thick the boards you will use to make the deck are to prevent them from sagging. The installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. This way they will prevent the structure from folding to one side. The more jibs and cross members you make, the more reliable the structure will be.

Also, to prevent self-made scaffolding from falling, it should be supported with timber or boards, one end should be nailed to the posts with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will prevent the structure from folding to one side, but there is a possibility that the scaffolding will fall forward without securing it. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, there is no need to support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitudes. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks or knots. Handrails will give you confidence during construction.

A standard 6 meters is enough to reach the ceiling level of the second floor. But such scaffolding is inconvenient because it has to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can assemble scaffolding from strong old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - whatever is found on the farm.

Construction trestles

There is another simple way to make mobile lightweight scaffolding with your own hands - make identical trestles onto which crossbars are placed at a certain pitch, which will serve as both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Flooring boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for cladding a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and the height will need to be changed all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction trestles are the best option.

Sometimes they make one stand on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This is an excellent option for painting, caulking and preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When constructing a stone house, or a building made from building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures, because it is more expensive. The second decisive point is the dismantling of the wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be used, and the metal parts will gather dust in the barn.

But metal scaffolding also has many advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to care for a log house, for example, which means they will definitely be needed once every 2-3 years. In this plan metal structure will be more practical than wood, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work you are going to do will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but they are not good only for a rectangular shape, and to bypass complex shapes you will have to additionally weld the pipes.